A Fully 3D Printable GlaDOS Robotic Ceiling Arm La

Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop
A fully 3D printable GlaDOS Robotic ceiling arm lamp

by dragonator on March 3, 2013
Table of Contents
A fully 3D printable GlaDOS Robotic ceiling arm lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intro: A fully 3D printable GlaDOS Robotic ceiling arm lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 1: What will you need . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Step 2: Start printing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Step 3: (Optional) Sand, prime and paint the parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Step 4: Assemble the base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Step 5: Assemble the body of GlaDOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Step 6: Wire the assemblies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Step 7: Putting it all together . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Step 8: Enjoy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Step 9: Final thoughts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
http://www.instructables.com/id/A-fully-3D-printable-GlaDOS-Robotic-ceiling-arm-la/
Intro: A fully 3D printable GlaDOS Robotic ceiling arm lamp
In this instructable I will show you how to make a fully 3D printable GlaDOS from Portal (1 and 2), that is also a lamp and can be converted into a robotic arm (how much
cooler does it get), With a superled in the eye (this much cooler).
This was first intended to be an instructable on how to make a fully 3d printable GlaDOS robotic arm lamp that can also move. Due to some shortage in time and other
project that I need to continue on (my SLS printer ) I will share everything I have thus far that works properly. When I finally figure out how to make this thing moving
without all the electronics heating up to 100°C, you will be the first to know.
Because this was first intended to be a fully functioning robot arm, some of the instructions include wiring. If you do not plan to use this as a moving arm, I have also
designed parts to replace the servo's and moving parts. With this, you can skip most of the wiring and only use it as a lamp.
To make this lamp you will need a printer that is comfortable printing with a lot of support material. The design isn't supportless and is quite hard to print. I used a UP! 3D
printer, that is more than capable enough printing with support material. All of the parts are designed around the maximum build sizes of the UP!.
Also you will need some skills electronics and be comfortable using power from the mains. Also you will need a LOT of time. Printing alone will set you back at least 40
hours.
A special thanks to Almteq in the Netherlands for letting me borrow first one UP!, and letting me borrow 2(!) UP!s when one couldn't get the job done fast enough with
just one. Without you guys, this project wouldn't have been possible.
Step 1: What will you need
To build a complete arm the way I did it, you will need:
tools:
- A 3D printer (I used a borrowed UP!);
- Files (the metal ones, not the digital ones);
- Some basic screwdrivers and pliers;
- Soldering iron;
Materials:
- At least 2kg of 3D printing filament (note that in the picture you see a 1kg spool, trust me that that isn't enough);
- 2 M3 countersunk screw (16mm);
- 2 M3 self locking nut;
- 13 M4 Cylinder head hexagon socket screw (16mm);
- 5? M4 Cylinder head hexagon socket screw (30mm);
- 12 M4 nuts;
- 32 M4 countersunk screw (16mm);
- 4-6 M8 nuts (depending on the type you are making);
- 1 M8 90mm piece of threaded rod;
- 3 M8 washers;
- A bag of scavenged tiny screws from electronics or another source of tiny screws;
Electronics:
- 1 12V power source;
- 2 40mm fans;
- 8 super leds (3W or 1W) in the white of your choice (I used 3W warm white);
- 1 Led driver to match the need for your 8 super Leds
- 8 heatsinks for the leds in the ring;
Optional electronics that might be useful for making it all a bit more awesome
- 3 micro servo's; (2 can be 1kgcm, but one has to be as strong as possible (preferably 2kgcm to 3kgcm)
- 1 normal servo; (3.5kgcm is too little, 6-8kgcm would be better)
- 2 608 bearings
- 1 super led (3W or 1W) in orange for the eye (I used a dialed down 3W to have less heat buildup);
- 1 heatsink for the led in the head;
- Lots and lots and lots of wire, most of it black;
Painting materials:
- Wet and dry sandpaper (around 600 grit size);
- paintbrushes in various sizes;
- Plastic primer;
- Filler primer;
- Paint in satin white and black;
- masking tape
- pieces of iron wire
And most of all, a lot of time.
Image Notes Image Notes

1. 1 3D printer 1. At least 2kg of printing material, depending on your printer. Trust me when I say
1kg isn't enough
1. 3 Micro servos including attributes 1. (optional) At least one orange 3W super led (I had to buy in bulk)
2. 1 Regular servo with corresponding stuff 2. 8 white 3W super leds
3. Only if you want to make the lamp moving 3. A driver to drive the 8 white leds

1. Wet and dry sandpaper 1. Those nice pieces of wood they give with each can of paint
2. Masking tape 2. Satin white and Satin Black paint
3. Plastic and filler primer 3. A useless way to big brush to make the nice small brush look beter

1. A small nice brush that look even better now that we compare it to the big 1. A 1,5A 12V wall wart as tiny as possible. (this one was already too big)
one
Image Notes
1. A bag of tiny electronics screws, scavenged over the years
Step 2: Start printing
First things first you will need to start printing. You can download all the needed parts from the thingiverse page:
I have put two zip files in the download, one for a moving arm, and one for a stationary arm.
I have oriented the parts the way that they were designed to be printed. Feel free to rotate the parts if you find a better way to print them. You will need:
4 ring open + top covers

2 ring fan in + top covers
2 ring fan out + top covers
1 base
1 mounting plate
1 helical gear 2M 10T
1 helical gear 2M 17T
1 Main pivot tube
1 Main pivot back
1 Main pivot internals
1 Moving arm
1 rotation
1 Head
1 pushrod head
1 pushrod large
1 servoclamp
1 wireblock top left
1 wireblock top right
2 wireblock small 1
2 wireblock small 2
1 wireblock large 1
1 wireblock large 2
You will need between 40 and 60 (!) hours of printing to get all the parts done. Also you will need between 2kg and 3kg of material to print all of the parts. I had to find out
the crummy way that just 1kg of material will not print all of the parts.
Top tip, If a spool is too big to fit on a standard up spool holder, you can use a box and a piece of rod to make your own custom spool holder.
Image Notes
1. Not all parts are included in this picture
Image Notes
1. This was a mini heart attack, almost running out of material
Step 3: (Optional) Sand, prime and paint the parts
To make your own personal GlaDOS look extra awesome, you will need to sand and paint the printed parts. This will remove most of the visible printing lines and give all
of the parts the right color
Start by sanding or filing down the lines that a 3D printer makes. This will make it easier to fill the final rough spots with filler primer. At this point you won't need to make
the parts perfectly smooth, the filler will do that. All you need to do is get the worst of the rough spots of.
After sanding, you will need to mask all the places where you don't want paint. For primer, it actually doesn´t really matter where your paint goes, But I wanted the inside
of my parts to be clean.
Degrease all of the parts and then apply plastic primer to make the following layers stick properly. Filler primer will probably stick to the part anyway, but it is better just to
be sure. You will only need a thin coat of plastic primer. The smoothing of the part will happen with the filler primer.
Next you will need to apply several coats of filler primer. you can give spots that are particularly rough an extra layer, so that you will have more filler to smooth the part.
Next you will need to sand the layer of filler smooth. I used wet sanding because it gives a smoother finish. Don't sand off till you see printed material. than you have
sanded too deep and it will look rough again.
Repeat filling and sanding until you reach the desired smoothness.
For painting, you will need white paint and black paint. Now GlaDOS is not black, she is an of black color (or a very dark gray for the lighter people among us). To make
the gray, mix a large batch of the black paint with a splash of white paint. All you need to do is lighten it a teeny tiny bit. A 1:10 or 1:15 will probably do. Just keep adding
tiny splashes of white until the color is right. If you try to make the gray in one try, it will probably end up to light, and making it darker is a lot harder than making it lighter.
I painted the white first because black covers white better than white covers black. I have also added a few renders to the pictures to give you an idea what parts to paint
what colors.
Image Notes
1. Paint a few coats of white first. Black covers white better than white covers
black
Image Notes
1. Hung to dry
1. Start with black and white paint, and a jar to put it in. 1. Add a splash of white to the black. ONLY a splash. 1:10 or 1:15 is more than
enough. You only need a off black colour
Image Notes
1. Final color, as good as my camera is going to capture it.

1. No need to paint parts that aren't visible 1. And a nice coat of the dark gray added to the parts
Step 4: Assemble the base
Use a M8 bolt and several washers to pressfit both 608 bearings in the base. You might hear the base crack a little. The bearings need to fit tight, but don't need to jam. If
there is too little room, file the holes a bit to make more space.
Assemble driver gear by screwing on the round servo plate to the large drive gear with 4 small screws.
Modify the servo so it fits. Due to some mis-engineering, The normal servo needs to have the wires come out of the bottom. Remove the back cover and file the opening
so the wires can exit from the back. The strain relief is not necessary because the servo is stationary.
Place servo in the base. There are holes to mount the servo.
Mount the 40mm fans in the 2 ring pieces with 4 M4 countersunk screws each. The fans I used were self tapping, so no nuts were necessary. The fans will keep the air
moving past the leds.
Add ring pieces to the base by putting 8 nuts in the openings of all the ring pieces. 8 M4 cylindrical head screws will keep the ring pieces attached to the base.
Wire the leds in groups of four. The leds need to be wired in series for the driver to power them. 2 groups of 4 leds are wired so that they for a chain of 8 leds, wired in
serie. Both groups meet in the base twice, one time to chain them up, and one time to connect them to the power supply.
Place the leds in the ring. I used epoxy glue to glue the leds in place.
Add heatsink to the backs of the leds. Use plenty of thermal plaster to glue the heatsinks to the leds.
Test the leds so you are sure that they work. You don't want to discover that some leds don't work when you have closed up the ring. (actually, this didn't even happen to
me)
Put all the top covers in place with M4 countersunk screws. the screws tap themselves in the ring. There is hardly any force on the screws, so no nuts are needed.
Test again. You can never be too sure.
The base is now finished.

1. To press fit the bearings in the base, You will need: 1. Put a small washer, then a big washer over the bolt. Then put the bearing over
2. the base the bolt.
3. 2 608 bearings
4. A nut and a bolt
5. And some washers to spread the load across the bearing
1. Insert in base 1. Add the bearing

1. Add the washers 1. Then tighten with a nut

1. The press fitted bearing. 1. The press fitted bearing.
Image Notes
1. 1 40mm fan
2. 4 M4 x16mm screws
3. A fan in piece of ring
Image Notes
1. For modifying the servo you will need:
2. A Phillips screwdriver
3. And the normal servo
4. A file
1. unscrew the cover 1. Remove the cover
Image Notes
1. File the opening so that the wire can come out of the back
Image Notes
1. The finished modification. The strain relief is in the housing of the servo. This
servo will remain stationary
1. For assembling the drive gear you will need: 1. The assembled drive gear
2. The drive gear (the large one) 2. The assembled drive gear
3. A round servo mount
4. A Phillips screwdriver
5. And 4 small screws (I salvaged these from electronics)
Image Notes
1. 1 M4 nut
Image Notes
1. Testing the lights
1. 1:There are 2 groups of 4 leds 1. Use two component Epoxy glue to glue the leds in place. (Make sure that they
2. 2: one here are going to work first)
3. 3: and one here
4. positive and negative of both groups are connected on one side
5. 4: positive and negative of both groups are connected on one side
6. 5: and the other side of the groups is connected to the led driver
Image Notes
1. 15C/W Dip28 heatsinks
2. heatsink plaster/glue
1. Apply plaster generously 1. Spread the plaster and place the heatsink
Image Notes
1. Testing prior to closing the ring
Step 5: Assemble the body of GlaDOS

Glue 2 M8 nuts in the tube. Use plenty of strong glue (such as 2 component epoxy glue) to glue the nuts in the tube. These will hold the full weight of the lamp.
Attach tube to back with 2 M4 nuts, cut exactly to size.
Attach round servo plate to rotation. Be careful not to break the part. you might want to drill the holes so that the screws are barely catching. This part is fragile.
Put wired Led in head (only if you want the eye to light up)
Attach heatsink to the eye led. This is just a precaution. the eye is powered with a fraction of the power of the main lights.
Attach pushrod to head servo. You don't want to attach this pushrod when the servo is already glued in place.
Put (and glue) servo in rotation
attach pushrod large to the bottom servo.
Attach servo to moving arm using the servoclamp
Put other servo in bottom and to hold the rotation in place. The servo needs to be 'up side down' to make the moving arm and the rotation line up.
Attach rotation to bottom with the screw and maybe a dot of glue.
Place the junction box on the rotation to cover up the screw holes an mounting holes junction box
Mount head to rotation with 2 self locking M3 nuts and 2 M3 countersunk screws.
Attach head pushrod to head using a tiny screw.

1. The tube 1. Thread the nuts on the bolt
2. 2 component epoxy glue
3. 2 M8 nuts
4. Something to push it in with

1. Mix Glue 1. Apply generously

1. And apply some more in the tube 1. Push it in

1. And done 1. 2 M4 screws cut to size, and 2 M4 nuts
2. 2 M4 washers
3. 1 Allen key
4. Tube with nuts
5. The back

1. Insert M4 nuts 1. And tighten the screws
Image Notes
1. A 90mm M8 thread
2. 1 M8 bolt
Image Notes
1. Glue this M4 nut in place, It will save you a lot of trouble later
Image Notes
1. The M3 countersunk screws keep the head in place. Screw loosely too keep the
head moving, tighten to keep the head stationary.

1. This needs to be the other way around. The long side needs to be on the head 1. This servo needs to be glued in place
side 2. these screws keep breaking of, so I need to glue them in place
Step 6: Wire the assemblies
You could skip this step if you don't want to power any systems below the base.
I do however advice to put wires between the back and the moving arm. In the game, there are clearly wires running there.
To make this arm function, you will need to put wires from the base, through the internals, through the back and to the moving arm. From here it can be spread to the 3
servo's and the eye. In total there need to be 11 wires running from top to bottom. Most of these wires are black, but there are several wires that are a yellow orange
color.
I put connectors between the internals and the back. It is also possible to solder the wires there or even better, just use wires that are long enough (everything seems
more logical when you are looking back on it).
at this point you can attach the back to the internals and the internals to the moving arm. you now have a complete arm.
Image Notes
1. A whole mess of wires, cut to size
2. 3 3pin and 1 2pins female header

1. I soldered the connectors at an angle to make them fit in the base 1. Pull the wires through the internals
1. You can skip this step by using wires that are long enough 1. Add counter connectors with more wires
2. Add connectors 2. This wire is yellow by design

1. Connect 1. And close it up
2. Put the smaller wires through here, with the wireblocks on the wires

1. Time to create some order in this rats nest 1. Connect the wires to the servo's and leds here.
Image Notes
1. NOT my image
2. See, Wires
Step 7: Putting it all together

Connect the mains side of the power supply and the led driver to each other. This way the fans will turn on together with the lights.
You where built with a brain, use it. I am not responsible for any harm or damage done to you or others and your surroundings by this lamp/arm. Electricity can kill you if
you don't know what you re doing.
!! I strongly advice against modifying power supplies. I needed to do this do make everything fit !! Just try to find a power supply that fits.
put all of the electronics in the base. check if wires can't short.
mount the arm to the base. Put the threaded rod though the base and then put several nuts in place. Depending on the type of arm you printed, you need to add a gear to
the top of the threaded rod.
mount the mounting plate to a (preferably your own) ceiling. I modified the design of the mounting plate so that it is physically possible to put in the screws. It took me a
good part of two hours to mount my lamp.
Attach wires and then attach the lamp to the mounting plate. You should now have a functioning GlaDOS lamp. Congratulations, your life is now a bit more awesome.
Image Notes
1. You might need to force it a little (only a little) to get the herringbone gears to fit.
Image Notes
1. No problem can't be solved with duct tape
Image Notes
1. Wire the fans to the 12V power supply
Image Notes
1. The mounting plate is designed around a Dutch (European?) distribution box.
(google translate ftw. I don't know the real name)
Step 8: Enjoy
Putting all this effort in a project won't do you any good if you can't enjoy it.
Sadly for me, I was hoping by now the arm would be moving properly. But having a fire hazard lighting my room wouldn't really make me comfortable. Safety above all. I
still got an amazing lamp out of it.
The lamp is more than sufficient to light my room. It is brighter than my previous store bought lamp. All I'm waiting for is some fat joke to come from the lamp.
Step 9: Final thoughts
So many thing have not gone the way I planned, that I can fill an entire instructable just with those lessons.
The biggest problem I faced was a giant shortage of time. This project has taken me a month start to finish. I would have had a far better result if I had taken a few
months more for it all. The rush was for entering the UP! contest.
Not testing the electronics was one of my bigger mistakes. Finding out that components just can't handle the power really sucks if you have the arm in final assembly and
are two days until your deadline. I was never much for making an experimental setup, but these electronics where madness even to my standards.
8x 3W might be a bit of overkill. This will light a room twice as big as my room and still be too bright. 1W would probably have been a better choice. When I rebuild it, I will
probably swap the 3W for 1W leds. 1W only produces half of the light.
Using the cheapest of cheap servo's has really been a letdown. All of the parts that did move either had way to little strength, of where shaky. I had no time to order
proper servo's, and even if I had, I would have still probably bought cheap servo's. When I do rebuild the arm with proper electronics, I will most certainly upgrade the
servo's.
Not planning most thing has caused me to seriously misjudge a lot of thing. If I had simulated the parts, I would have found out that 1kg was not enough, and I would
have found out that I needed more than 1 weekend and 1 printer to print the parts. Also I could have figured out that painting would take more than one week if I had
planned everything. Things still might not have gone completely as planned, but a lot of the large problems in this project could have been prevented.
Looking back on it all almost makes me regret ever starting it. I don't though cause even if I haven't reached my initial result. I still got one of the coolest lamps in
existence. Plus most lessons are learned while making mistakes. You haven't failed if you have made a mistake, you have just found a way how not to do it.
In the pictures below some of the old parts that are useless without a working GlaDOS controller.
1. Too bad this function was lost with the removal of the electronics 1. Old poorly functioning controller board
2. This part reached 80°C in a matter of seconds while the servo's were running

1. Old poorly functioning electronics 1. The remote control of GlaDOS. Without the controller board, it has little use

1. The remote control including the control arm 1. A miniature GlaDOS that tracks movement using potmeters.
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1 comments Add Comment
Penolopy Bulnick says: Mar 20, 2013. 2:11 PM REPLY

That is crazy cool!

A Fully 3D Printable GlaDOS Robotic Ceiling Arm La

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Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop

A fully 3D printable GlaDOS Robotic ceiling arm lamp

A fully 3D printable GlaDOS Robotic ceiling arm lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: A fully 3D printable GlaDOS Robotic ceiling arm lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1: What will you need . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 2: Start printing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 3: (Optional) Sand, prime and paint the parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Step 4: Assemble the base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Step 5: Assemble the body of GlaDOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Step 6: Wire the assemblies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Step 7: Putting it all together . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Step 9: Final thoughts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

And most of all, a lot of time.

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4 ring open + top covers

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Test again. You can never be too sure.

The base is now finished.

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Step 5: Assemble the body of GlaDOS

Attach tube to back with 2 M4 nuts, cut exactly to size.

Put (and glue) servo in rotation

attach pushrod large to the bottom servo.

Attach servo to moving arm using the servoclamp

Attach head pushrod to head using a tiny screw.

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Step 7: Putting it all together

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Penolopy Bulnick says: Mar 20, 2013. 2:11 PM REPLY

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