ASSIGNMENT 01

SPECIFICATION OF FIVE FINISH MATERIAL

ARCH 561: Specification

Prepared By:
Asfia Islam
Student ID: 1301032
Date: 19/02/2019
1. Ceramic Glazed Tiles
1.1. Ceramic Glazed wall tiles shall be of 1st quality and shall conform to IS :13753. The surface of
tiles and components can be smooth, profiled, decorated or finished, glossy, matt or semi-matt as
indicated. The tiles shall be flat true to shape, sound and free from flaws and other
manufacturing defects. The top surface of the tiles shall be glazed. The underside of the tiles
shall be free from glaze in order that the tiles may adhere properly to the base. The glaze shall be
uniform in quality and shall be free from welts, chips, craze, crawling or other imperfections,
detracting from appearance when viewed at a distance of one meter. The texture and colour of
tiles shall be as indicated. Tiles shall be of sizes as indicated. If not indicated size of tile shall be
200mm x 300 mm. The thickness shall be as specified by the manufacturer but in no case it shall
be less than 6mm.

1.2. Ceramic Glazed floor tiles shall be of 1st quality and shall conform to IS :13755. The surface of
tiles and components can be smooth, profiled, decorated or finished, glossy, matt or semi-matt
(anti skid) as indicated. The tiles shall be flat true to shape, sound and free from flaws and other
manufacturing defects. The top surface of the tiles shall be glazed. The underside of the tiles
shall be free from glaze in order that the tiles may adhere properly to the base. The glaze shall be
uniform in quality and shall be free from welts, chips, craze, crawling or other imperfections,
detracting from .appearance when viewed at a distance of one meter. The texture and colour of
tiles shall be as indicated. Tiles shall be of sizes as indicated. If not indicated size of tile shall be
300mm x 300 mm. The thickness shall be as specified by the manufacturer but in no case it shall
be less than 6.5mm.

1.3. Ceramic Glazed tiles flooring / Ceramic Glazed wall tiles in dado and Skirting
1.3.1.Bedding The screed bed for laying Ceramic Glazed floor tiles shall be of cement and sand
mortar 1:4. Bedding over which the tile shall be laid shall not be less than 10mm at any
place. Tiles shall be soaked in water before laying.
1.3.2.Laying Base concrete or RCC slab shall be cleaned and wetted. The bedding shall then be
laid evenly over the surface, tamped and corrected to desired levels and allowed to harden
enough to offer a rigid cushion to tiles. Before laying the tiles, cement slurry of honey like
consistency at 3 kg/ sq m shall be applied over the bedding. At a time area to accommodate
about twenty tiles shall be applied with cement slurry. Tiles shall then be washed clean and
fixed in the grout one after the other, each tile being gently tapped in its position till it is
properly bedded and in level and line with adjoining tiles. The joints shall be as thin as
possible but not exceeding 1.5mm wide. The ceramic tiles shall be set, jointed with cement
slurry and pointed in neat coloured cement to match the colour of tiles. The surface shall be
cured for seven days and then washed clean. In the cases of skirting and dado, the wall
surface shall be covered with about 10mm thick plaster of cement and sand mortar as
indicated and allowed to harden. The plaster shall be roughened with wire brushes or by
scratching diagonal lines. The back of tiles shall be buttered with cement paste and set on
bedding mortar. The tiles shall be gently tapped in position one after the other. Top of
skirting or dado shall be truly horizontal and the joints vertical or as per required pattern.
Joints shall be flush pointed with white cement with pigment to match the colour of tiles.
2. Terrazzo Flooring

2.1. On account of its decorative and good wearing properties, this type of flooring is becoming very
popular these days and is being commonly provided in offices, schools, hospitals, residential
buildings, banks etc.

2.2. Terrazzo is a concrete surface with special aggregate of marble chips (or other decorative
material) mixed with white and/or coloured cement in proportion of 3:1 (three marble chips : one
cement). The aggregates are exposed by grinding the surface mechanically or manually. The
flooring may be laid in different thickness.

2.3. Construction method

2.3.1.Traditionally, terrazzo has been created on the job site.  For this method of construction, a
damp, sandy cement mixture is poured over a prepared sub-floor to act as the base and
binder.  The typical thickness for this type of terrazzo is between 2 1/2" and 3".   A variety
of marble chips is then spread over the clay surface.  Depending on the design, colored
pigments can also be added at this time.  The entire surface is rolled to evenly compact the
area before the concrete binder can dry.   Divider strips are incorporated to control the work
areas, create designs, and perform other functional requirements, such as controlling
cracking or accomplishing a change in surface direction.  Divider strips are made using
a white alloy containing zinc and brass, and with today's technology, sometimes even
plastic.  After the concrete has dried, the surface is ground to be uniformly flat and smooth. 
For centuries this step was laboriously performed by hand-grinding with stones, but today it
is accomplished with diamond impregnated stones and electric grinding machines.  This
method results in a smooth, dense, and highly polished surface, which is then sealed to
retain the polished appearance.

2.3.2.Modern materials have increased the variety of uses for this product.  Epoxy and
polyacrylic materials have created a terrazzo product that is 1/4" to 3/8" in thickness and
weighs only 3 to 5 lbs. per sq.ft..  This allows architects and designers to use the product in
places where traditional terrazzo, at 25 to 35 lbs. per sq.ft., would be unacceptable.   Other
interesting terrazzo products can be created using these types of materials.  Larger precast
pieces are cut into smaller tile sections for floor covering or strips to used as window sills.   
This has created an affordable residential market for the high end appearance and durability
of terrazzo.

3. Marble Flooring

3.1. Marble flooring is commonly provided in place of worship and in public buildings having rich
specifications. In view of high cost of materials, use of marble flooring in residential building is
normally restricted to areas like kitchen, bathrooms, entrance etc.
 3.2. The size of marble slabs to be used in flooring depends upon the pattern to be adopted. The slabs
for normal works are square or rectangular in shape and their thickness varies from 20mm to
40mm. the flooring is laid on prepared sub-grade of concrete or on the RCC floor slab. Prior to
laying flooring, the sub-grade is cleaned, wetted and mopped properly. A layer of bedding
mortar which can be 1:4 cement mortar (1 cement : 4 coarse sand) or lime mortar ( 1 lime putty :
1 surki : 1 coarse sand) is spread in average thickness of about 20mm under the area of each slab.
The marble slab is laid on top of the bedding mortar, pressed and tapped with wooden mallet and
brought to the level with the already laid adjoining slabs. The slab is thereafter lifted up and
placed aside. The top surface of the bedding mortar is then corrected by adding mortars at
hollows. After the bedding mortar is hardened slightly, cement slurry is spread over the same at
the rate of 4.4 kg of cement per sq m. the edge of the slab already laid are the smeared with
cement slurry of the same shade as of the marble slab and the slab to be paved is again placed in
position and tapped with wooden mallet till it is properly bedded in level with the adjoining
slabs. The joint between two slabs has to be very fine (paper thick). The cement that oozed out of
the joint is cleaned. Remaining slabs are also laid in the same manner and the flooring work
completed. The paved area is cured for a minimum period of seven days.

3.3. Marble, another tile that many would think of as a hard surface, is actually fairly soft and subject
to scratching, pitting and etching.  Marble flooring is subject to damage from acidic drink or
food spills, traffic patterns, and even the family pet.  This kind of damage cannot be cleaned
away, and the floor will require professional replacement.  Restoration, on the other hand, can be
accomplished by having the surface "honed".  Honing is surface grinding with a machine that is
fitted with abrasive stones of various compounds to remove scratches, etching or pitting.  The
surface will be a matte finish rather than shiny and polished.  This could be a favorable
appearance, depending on lifestyle, as imperfections in the floor would not be as noticeable and
after the surface has been sealed it would be easier to care for.  This form of restoration needs
careful consideration, as it does alter the appearance of the floor somewhat and should be left to
a seasoned professional.

4. Red Oxide Primer Paint

4.1. Red Oxide Primer paint for exterior Iron and steel surfaces to avoid from corrosion under non
immersion condition of two coats having a touch dry amount of 30-45 minutes and hard dry
touch time of 16-18 hours. The color of the paint should be Reddish Brown with Matt finish in
appearance. The binder should be of Soya Bean oil modified Alkyd and the thinner used should
be White spirit. The Pigments of the paint should be of Iron Oxides, Inorganic Pigments and
mineral Extenders. The Recoating interval has to be of Minimum 16 hours. Do Not Apply When
the Relative humidity exceeds 85% or when the surface to be coated is less than 30’C above the
dew point. Do not apply at temperature below 7’C. If not, drying and over coating times will be
considerably extended. During application of the paint, naked flame, Welding Operations and
smoking should not be allowed and good ventilation is necessary.
4.2. Surface must be dry and free from dirt, grease and other contaminants. Ferrous substrates should
be sanded or wire-brushed to remove mill scales and rust. Clean off dust and dry. Any loose and
flaking paint film must be scraped off. Defective areas should be sanded and smoothened. In the
 case of ferrous substrates, rust should be thoroughly removed. The entire surface must be dry
and clean of dirt, grease and other contaminants. The scraped areas should be spot-primed
using Nippon Red Oxide Primer as an undercoat for metal surfaces.

4.3. Safety, Health and Environmental Information: In the wet state, this product is highly
inflammable. In case of fire, blanket flames with foam, carbon dioxide or dry chemicals. Keep
away from sources of ignition. No smoking. Keep container tightly closed and keep out of reach
of children or away from food and drink. Ensure good ventilation during application and drying.
Do not breathe Vapor / Spray. Applying paint to large surface areas under closed environment
should use air supplied breathing equipment. Inhalation: Remove to fresh air, loosen collar and
keep patient rested. Ingestion: In case of accidental ingestion. DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING.
Seek immediate medical attention. Avoid Contact with Skin and Eyes. Wear suitable protective
equipment such as overalls, goggles, dust, masks and gloves. Use a barrier cream. When
applying paint, it is advisable to wear eye protection. In case of contact with eye, rinse with
plenty of water immediately and seek medical advice. Remove splashes from skin by using soap
or water. DO NOT USE SOLVENT OR THINNER. Paint must always be stored in a cool place.
When transporting paint, care must be taken. Always keep container in a secure upright position.
Dispose of any paint waste in accordance with the appropriate Environmental Quality
Regulations.

5. Water Closet

5.1. Toilets come in many shapes, sizes, and styles. For our project, we are installing a dual-flush,
one-piece Kohler toilet with an artisan design. The dual-flush toilet is a water-conservation
feature that offers two flush options, either 0.8 or 1.6 gallons. The design of this particular toilet
will make the installation slightly different than that of a standard toilet. The main difference is
the manner in which the toilet mounts to the floor. Typically, toilets mount to the closet bolts
that are slotted in the waste drain flange.

5.2. Necessary Tools & Materials:

 Wax rings
 Closet bolts and nuts
 Water supply line
 Screwdrivers
 Wrenches
 Channel lock pliers
 Power drill
 Masonry drill bits
 Caulking gun
 Silicone sealant

5.3. Installation
5.3.1.Preparing for installation: The first step is to check that the rough plumbing is in the proper
location. Our toilet came with a template that we used to make sure the drain and supply
lines were in the right places when the rough plumbing was installed. Use the template to
locate and mark the position of the mounting brackets. For bathrooms with ceramic tile
floors, use a masonry drill bit to drill holes for the mounting bracket anchors. Fasten the
mounting brackets to the floor anchors with the screws provided by the manufacturer. Next,
connect the water supply line to the back of the toilet. Use a wrench or channel lock pliers
to tighten the connection, but be sure not overtighten. the water supply line threads through
an access hole on the side of the toilet. An escutcheon, or hole cover, is used to cover the
access hole.

5.3.2.Setting the wax ring and toilet: Next, set the wax ring over the waste drain flange. The
weight of the toilet causes the wax ring to expand and distort, sealing the connection. The
required height of the wax ring will depend on the thickness of the finish floor. It is
important to get a good seal between the waste drain flange and the toilet to prevent
wastewater and sewer gas leaks. Insert the two closet bolts into the slots of the waste drain
flange. If you are installing a standard toilet, the next step is to set the toilet in place over
the wax ring and gently apply downward pressure to ensure that the wax ring compresses
and fills any gaps. Use a wrench to fasten the toilet to the floor with the washers and closet
bolt nuts. Caps fit over the closet bolts to finish the installation. the next step is to install a
wax ring gasket over the wax ring. The gasket will do the job of compressing the wax ring
and provide a sealed outlet that aligns with the toilet horn. Set the gasket over the wax ring
and closet bolts. Install the washers and closet bolt nuts and tighten the gasket to the floor.
Align the toilet over the wax ring gasket and carefully drop it into place. Gently apply even
downward pressure. Install the mounting screws into the brackets at the back of the toilet.
Wrap the water supply with some plumbers’ tape to help seal the connection and use a
wrench to fasten the supply line to the water supply shut-off valve adjacent to the toilet.

5.3.3.Set the toilet tank lid in place. Install the dual flush buttons by attaching the two stems to
the undersides of the buttons. Insert the flush button assembly into the top of the tank lid.
Use a caulking gun and silicone sealant to caulk around the base of the toilet. This can help
to keep the floor and toilet base clean. Finally, install the easy-close toilet seat with two
screws at the back of the toilet bowl. Turn the water supply on and flush to check for leaks
and an appropriate water level in the tank.