Getting Started

Welcome to the DRAGONLOCK Miniatures collection. This instruction manual will outline some basic
materials you will need for 3D printing these models and links to additional resources.

For more information on getting started with 3D printing, help with choosing a printer, settings for many
popular printers, troubleshooting, and painting tutorials, please visit our Youtube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5Lbnd97HV3rU98gcwHklzQ

Join our Facebook group here:

We have several videos specifically on settings for printing your miniatures, and how to finish them here:

How to 3D Print Miniatures Part 1: https://youtu.be/AqEWl51s9Rw

Basic Tools and Materials

For gluing models with multiple pieces together, we
have found that Gorilla Glue works great (especial-
ly the ‘gel’ type.)

While not necessary, it helps to have a pair of small

tweezers on hand. You’ll find yourself using them
often to pull odd strands of plastic off the model,
getting small bits of plastic out of the printer, etc.
Absolutely essential is a small metal spatula to help
remove models from your build plate. We’ve found
that ones like this from art supply aisles at craft
stores work great and should only cost you a few
dollars.

A Flush cutter is essential for trimming supports

cleanly off of your model.

Amazon link for cutter:

https://amzn.to/2HcIxS2

A selection of small needle files and sandpaper will

help smooth rough surfaces.

Amazon link for files:

https://amzn.to/2XsRgoW

Amazon link for sandpaper:

https://amzn.to/2SB0Geo
 General printing tips for DRAGONLOCK Miniatures
Use good quality filament (we recommend eSun PLA Pro). While cheaper filaments work fine for terrain,
you need a good quality filament for the best results when dealing with miniatures.

We have Cura profiles for use on Creality Ender and CR series printers here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/aor4tnprppgy9tq/AAD6ltdb-HHkqBLT7LD3LaOZa?dl=0

General printing info (for .4mm nozzles):

Layer Height: .1mm
Infill: 20-50%
Shells/Walls: 3
Top/Bottom layers: 8-10
Print infill before walls (if you have that setting option)
Print temperature: This depends on filament, but 190-205˚ is common
Outer wall speed: 22-25mm
Inner wall speed: 30-40mm
Travel speed: 100-120
Combing on - avoid printed parts
Turn Z-Hop off

SPECIFIC NOTES FOR THE DRACOLICH WING ENDS:

The wing ends must be printed with 2 shells/walls, and 0% infill.

DRAGONLOCK™, DRAGONLOCK: Miniatures™, and Dragonbite™ are trademarks of Fat Dragon Games. @2020 Fat Dragon Games. All rights reserved.
For more information please visit: www.fatdragongames.com
When using files, don’t file too hard or for long When sanding, use sandpaper that can be wet as
periods as the resulting heat from the friction can the water will help cool the plastic and keep it from
soften and deform the plastic. softening due to the friction heat.

When gluing small parts like limbs apply the super Use flush cutters to clip off built-in supports and
glue on a separate surface, and use a toothpick to create a smoother edge that will require minimal
transfer a small drop. cleanup with files/sandpaper.
 Dracolich Instructions

Using the settings listed earlier in this document, You will need a straightened paperclip to attach the
your wing tips will be hollow when separated from wing ends to the wings.
their base.

Using superglue, glue the paperclip inside the wing Cut the paper clip off using wire cutters (wear eye
end as far as it will go. protection!) leaving a short length sticking out.
Glue the protruding end of the paperclip into the Next straighten a full paperclip for the neck.
recesses in the main wing (long end at the top, me-
dium end in the center, short end at the bottom.)

Make a gradual curve in the paperclip and glue into I primed and put a base coat of bone on my verte-
the neck on the main body. brate bones and the completed skull (I put a second
coat and then a wash once everything is glued in
place.)
Put a drop of glue at the attachment point with Continue gluing vertebrate pieces until the neck is
the next vertebrate down, then slide the new piece as long as you want it to be. Then test fit the head
onto the paper clip until it meets the lower one and and cut the remaining paperclip end as required to
glues in place. fit the head on the end.

Glue the head in place. Two versions of the guts are supplied. One is meant
to be painted as shown above. The second is LED
illuminated and shown on the next page.
Follow the LED guide included with this kit to as- The inserted LED guts.
semble the battery tray. Print the LED guts in trans-
lucent red or green (or whatever color you want)
and then glue the battery tray underneath it.