General Building Tips

Printing- This model can be printed on a standard model printer that handles normal
8.5x11" paper. Note the print dimensions of each page is 8.117x10.667". This will come
very close to the borders of most standard printers. Be sure to enable borderless printing
to ensure a good print. You may also elect to use the “print to page” option that will force
the printed pages into the print limits of your printer. This is a good option if you are
having clipped image issues, and the effect on the overall model and scale is negligible.
A question often asked is: “what kind of paper to use?” The answer depends of course
on the modelers’ preference but a good cheap start is to use about 67lb white cover
stock. Be sure to seal each printed page with a photo sealant to keep the colors crisp and
keep the ink from bleeding from the glue.

Notation-It is important to note that many parts are mirrored one side to the other.
Wings, for example. There are two of them and both will likely be constructed in exactly
the same way. In order to avoid confusion, the parts will either begin or end with an R or
L, designating which side it will end up on, left or right. Asterisk parts should be
laminated, which means glued to something heavier, such as 1mm card stock (the
default material for our models).

Fuselage-The fuselage is constructed from a series of tapered cylinders. Each one must
be rolled, so that it naturally wants to assume a cylindrical shape, then backed with a
connecting strip from the inside, joining the seam. The outside seam should be sealed
with a thin strip of glue. After dry, there will be usually two formers to be added, one at
each end, to be aligned properly, then glued in place at the very ends of the cylinder, so
that it sits flush with the flange of the cylinder. This will give the segment the proper
geometry, and should then be able to be joined with the next segment. Experienced card
modelers call this the ‘Butt-Type’ Method.

Wings-Construction of wings vary widely with each model. They are usually supported by
an internal former, with airfoil cross-sections, (called ‘Egg-Crate’ construction) which is
attached to the fuselage. This is built before adding the external wing surfaces. The
external surfaces are almost always joined before slipped over the internal formers, and
then glued to the fuselage.

Cockpit-The cockpit is usually made before the fuselage, simply because (just as in plastic
modeling) it usually cannot be added after the fuselage has been joined. The pilot’s seat,
however, is usually added last, because often the lower cockpit will not fit with the seat in
place.

Landing Gear- landing gear is usually an option, but the basic method is to start with a
wire frame for the main struts, then add the paper part to that by rolling it tightly and
gluing it in place. Other accessories, such as links, and braces may be added. The wheels
will be made in one of three ways. 1-commercially made wooden wheels may be
available. 2-a series of cut from heavy card (about 1mm) will be layered and glued
together to make the approximate thickness of the wheel, then sanded into shape. 3-My
favorite method is to carve them from foam, and sand them to shape. 4-Lastly there are
a wide array of inexpensive commercially available craft-use wooden wheels that can be
bought at your local craft store. They come in a wide variety of sizes, are very rigid, and
are easily painted and adapted to your model.

Canopy-The canopy may be made to be either opaque, or clear. If you want a clear
canopy, there are options. One method is to pin a piece of acetate over the canopy
parts, trace them & cut out the clear parts. Then the colored parts of the canopy will be
cut out and applied onto the clear parts. Another basic method for a more smooth,
cohesive canopy is to create a vacuum formed canopy. There are plenty of online
resources to learn this technique. Some people simply prefer, whenever available, to buy
a pre-molded canopy, commercially available from fine companies such as IBG Models.
All Skyline Paper Models kits have a canopy available for sale. Check our website,
Skylinepapermodels.com for the latest distributors and releases.
 DOs & DON’Ts
T Make sure you have the basic tools. I would recommend the following: A sharp
pair of 8" and 6"scissors, a cutting mat, a hobby knife with plenty of blades, a
sheet of clear acetate (overhead projector film) for canopies & clear parts, some
floral wire, a pair of pointed tweezers, double stick tape, spray artists’ fixative,
spray adhesive, white glue, and a fine grit sandpaper or nailfile.

T DO-read the instructions

T DO-seal the pages with an artists’ spray fixative immediately after printing. This
prevents smearing and discoloration when gluing parts.

T DO-pre cut the parts free from the page before doing a final cut of the part.

T DO-pre-color the edges of parts before gluing them. The difference in appearance
is dramatically improved. I suggest investing in a cheap set of either paints or
markers. Make the colors very light when coloring edges, as the result will look a
lot darker when applied to paper. Same goes for markers.

T DO-only cut out parts when you intend to use them. This prevents losing track of
them.

T DO-clean as you go. Make sure you dispose of scraps as often as possible, as
these will multiply very fast, making work more difficult, and may possibly lead to
throwing good parts away.

T DO-test fit parts before gluing them together. Depending on how the part is cut, it
may require some trimming or sanding to get a proper fit. Do not be afraid to do
this if you feel it is necessary.

T DO-NOT-overuse Matte Sealant. A very realistic appearance can be achieved

with this type of sealant, however it clouds easily. If you encounter this, I suggest
using a coat of gloss sealant to restore clarity, then retry the matte sealant.

T DO-NOT-use spray sealant once the canopy or other clear parts have been
applied.

T DO-NOT-use SuperGlue, unless you feel it is absolutely needed. The danger of

severely discoloring the parts (especially unsealed parts) can ruin a model.

T DO-NOT- continue with the model if you feel you’ve made a mistake, or are
dissatisfied with the result. Re-print the parts needed and re-build the mistake
area, and do not move on until this is done. Even if the mistake is minor and hard
 to see, it may create problems further on in building, and you will always know it is
there in the completed model.

T DO-NOT- rush through the model. The easiest way to make substantial mistakes
is a disease called ‘Get-There-Itis”. Usually people hurry the most toward the end
of a project.