IllustratedBookofInstruction 10290383

I LL U S T R A T E D B O O K
O F I N S T R U CT I O N
T HE
RO B I NS ON S Y S T EM
OF
B AR B E R C O L L E G E S
M A I N O FFI C E
12 1 W a s hi n gt o n S tre e t
SEA T T L E , W A S HI N G T O N
E . M . R OB I N SO N , M a n a ge r
W . F . I H
PA R S , S e c re t a ry
Pr i ce ,
PR E F A C E .
f; \ u:
' s
I n m y m any ye ars o f ac t ive personal ex peri e n ce

.
in th e B a r b e r trad e and i ts c o relative branches a s -

,
J ourney m a n Workman Mast er B arber C hief I n

, ,
s tr uc to r a n d Manager of v arious B arber C oll e ges I ,
have bee n enabled by obser v a t ion and p r ac t ice to

formulate and s e t forth t he follo w ing plain co m ,
prehensive and detail e d s e t of rules I feel satisfied .
tha t if car e fully st u died t hey m u s t be of inestimabl e

,
value to th e prospecti v e s t uden t a p pr e nti c e or jou r ,
neyman i n a c quiring a rudimentary or pri mary

,
kno w ledge of the essential points or features o f

the Tonsorial art The many illustrations coupled
.
with th e paragraph e d e x planations are s o plain and

c omplet e i n d e tail as t o enable th e st u d e nt to thor
ough ly co m p re h e nd them When s u pplemen te d by
.
a co u rse at on e of o u r colle g es can not fail t o ,
m ak e of th e m ost me dio c r e p upil a c o m p e te n t artist , .

PA RT I .
-
HO N I N G ,
S T R OP P I N G
OOM HO N I N G R
U pon entering the colleg e th e st u de n t is first

taken into the honing room apart f r om th e main ,
working room a n d is th e re take n in hand by the

,
instru c tor and taught th e first lesson in honing
,
and stropping th e razor This instruction is by per .
s onal illus t ration ; the m anner of holding and turn
ing t he razor in the hand by the fingers without

‘
turning the hand ; th e angl e at w hich it should be

drawn across th e hon e 4 5 d e g r e es as illustrated , ,
below ; starting th e heel of the razor at or near

the end of the hone and t e rminating the stroke wi t h
the point of the ra z or at th e c ent e r of the b o n e ,
carrying it at all times at the an g le abo v e s t a t ed ,
and perfec t ly flat at all times .
F I GU R E NO . 1 .
CO R R E C T H O N I N G P O SITI O N .
( N o t e c a e f ull y po i t i o n o f ha n
r s d a n d a n gl e a t
w hi c h a o i s d a w n
r z r T hi i s o n e o f t he m s t d i f
r . s o
fi c ult a t s to a c q u
r i e a n d s ho ul d be c e f ull y s t udi e d )
r ar .
Wh e n r eversing to take the ba c k stroke turn the ,
ra z o r with edg e up and do not c omm e nce ba c k

,
8 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF BAR B E R COLL E G E S .
stroke u ntil th e r azor is held at th e right angle

and perfe ctly flat on th e hone ; carrying fro m h e el t o
p o int a n d th en ba c k to fi r st positio n as illustrated
, ,
b e low .
F I GU R E 2.
S ec on d k H d d St k
P o s i ti on , or B ac an e ro e.
Th e se e xe r c is e s ar e had with old razo r s fur n ish e d

by th e c ollege until th e p u pil has m ast e red th e a r t
,
of det ec ting wh e n th e proper s m o o t h s t i c k y edg e i s ,
obtai n ed This c a n b e a c qui re d o n ly by pra c ti c al

‘
'
.
ill u stration fro m th e i n str u ctor who d r aws th e r a zor

across the thumb or finger nail of th e p u pil wh o ,
is th u s enabl e d to detect by the s e nsitiv e f ee ling o n

the nail ho w it feels w hen the desired e dge is o b
,
ta i n e d N o amount of verbal inst r u c tion is e ff e ctive

.
in c arrying to th e novic e s m ind the character of ’
the indescribable feeling above ref e rr e d to ; it ca n

only be lea r ned by actual coll e g e e xperi e n ce .
The new tools are not furnish e d th e st u de n t u ntil

they have thoroughly m ast e r e d th e a r t o f h o ni n g
a n d stropping .
Ther e is n othing m yst e rio u s o r intri c at e i n l e a rn

i n g to h one prop e rly ; with prop e r att en tion a n d
I LL U ST R A TE D BOOK OF IN ST R U C T I O N . 9
instruction competency is readily acquired Many .
times when trouble is had wi t h ra z ors the operator ,
is a s much to blame as th e razor B arbers are mo r .
tal and ha v e th e ir o ff days at such times they can ,
n o t get satisfa c tory work out of the best tools in

'
the best of condition .
C H A RA C T E R OE HO N E .
The B elgian W ater Hon e is used e x cl u siv e ly i n

t h e R obinson system of colle g es for th e reason that ,
t hey are nearly all of u niform grade and fineness ,
and th e st u d e nt is not so apt to o v e r h o n e o n the m

a s w hen a S w aty one is us e d The latt e r vary s o .
much in finen e ss a n d grit that th e beginner is a l

m ost sure to e x perience mu ch tro u ble in o ve r h o n i n g
on them B y damp e ning the hon e frequently and
.
using the rubber to produce a lib e ral quantity of

g rit, a smooth k een sticky edg e can always b e
, ,
p roduced .
The proper method of honing a ra z or is to draw

t h e blade edge foremost across the stone with th e
, ,
heel in ad v ance at an angle of forty fi v e degrees

,
-
,
the razor w ill then pass diagonally across the grit of

the stone as indi c ated in figures N os 1 and 2 ca u sing
, .
,
the teeth w hich compos e the cutting edge to incline

t o w ards the h ee l The figure b e low N o 3 shows a
. .
r azor ready for stropping af te r b e ing honed o n a

B elgian W at e r Stone and w as subje c ted to id e n
,
tically the same microscopic e x amination as figure N o .
4 w hich sh o ws the conditio n of a r a z or afte r b e i n g

,
h oned on a Swaty Th e relati v e frequency size a n d

.
,
a ngle of the t ee th ar e cl e arly shown a n d speak ,

volum e s for the s u pre m acy of th e Wat e r H o ne as '
against th e Swaty particularly fo r th e b e ginn e r

, .
P I G-TIRES N OS . 3 AND 4 .
T he up p e r fi g ur e , or No . 3 , s hows th e R a zor a f te r
Ho n i n g on a B el g i a n W a t e r Ho n e , w h i l e th e l o w e r , or
No . 4 , s how s th e sam e R az o r a f te r be i ng Ho n e d on a
S w at y .
ST R O P P I N G .
N ext to correct honing stroppi n g is the most i m ,
portant t r ick of the trade as oft e n after first sec u ring

,
a good edge on the hone it is ruined by careless ,
strop p ing The e dge and ba c k must b e both h e ld

.
I LL U ST R A T E D BOOK OF IN ST R U C T I O N . 11
gently though firmly on t he strop and drawn over

,
it w ith the razor held at right angles as shown in

ou t No 5 . .
F I GU R E NO . 5
.
T HE O P E R ME TH O D O F ST R O P PI N G
PR .
( N o t e p s i t i o n o f ha n d i n s t o ppi n g )
o r .
It should be t urned on t he strop edge up same , ,
as on th e hone w ith t he back al w ays res t ing on

,
t he s t rop Th e proper t ime to strop th e razor is

.
after the beard is la t hered and prepared for shaving ,
as immediately af t er coming from th e strop the

edge is keener and smoother than is the c ase where
it is laid aside for a w hile The razor should be
.
turned in the hand by a mo v ement similar to that

employed in honing .
12 R OB I N S ON S Y S TE I WO F BAR B E R COLL E G E S .
P R E PA R A T O RY O B S E RV A TI O N .
A fter thoroughly mastering the art of properly

preparing the tools to do satisfactory work th e ,
s t udent is now ready to enter t he c ollege proper

and assume a position at th e chair .
That too m a n y n e w ideas may not be crowded in

‘
t he student s mind simultaneously t o t heir detrimen t

’
,
and confusion they are permitted to spend the first

,
day or two i n observing t he manner in w hich the

older pupils perform their work This enables them .
to bet t er memorize the various positions and m o ve

ments in s e riatim and i s a great aid in preparing
,
them to receiv e and absorb to the full e st the actual ,
demons t ra t ion wo r k which th e y ar e ready to r ece ive

fro m t he 1n s tr uc to r .
PR VI AT E DE M O N ST RA TI O N .
In a private demonstratio n room adjoini n g th e ,
main practi c e room a r e se v e r al chairs at which the

,
first a ct ual lessons in B arb e ring ar e giv e n H e re .
the student j us t c ommencing is remov e d from the

direct observation of their c lass m at e s or oth er s -
,
e xcept the instr u ctor until th e y have acq u ir e d a

,
m easure of self confide n c e and e no u gh de x t e rity i n

t he us e of the tools as w e ll as th e position in which
,
to hold and dra w t h e m as will ins u re their f ree do m

,
from embarrassment when th e y e nter th e c ollege

proper This m ethod of semi pri v ate instr uc tion
.
-
,
in eff e ct and pra c tic e only at the R obinson Syste m

of C olleges is pro v ided par t icularly for lady p u pils
, ,
and gentl e men w hose modesty and sensiti v eness

w ould cause it to app e al t o th em un til th e y b e come

accustomed to the work and f e el t hat they are
the equals of t heir f e llo w stu d e nts .
W RIST A ND F RE E A RM MOV EM E N T .
The importance of de v eloping the flexibility of

'
the mu scles of the wrist and for e ar m cannot b e

overestimated B y as siduous application t o the B o t
.
t l e exercise and free arm mo v ement this fle x ibility

’
can be de v eloped S u ch e x ercis e could be tak en

.
a t home prior to ent e ring th e college With the

,
.
aid of the lessons and instructions of this work

much primary progr e ss can be made which will be
of great benefi t in advancin g the pupil rapidly .
P A R T I I S HA V I N G -
Th e su cc essful barber m ust be an adept at s b av

ing It is pre eminently the ro c k upon which th e ir
.
-
rep u tation i s found e d Th e ir success in drawing

.
trade to th e other departments of a well c ondu c ted

shop and in whi c h the principal profits are m ade
, ,
will d e p e nd in large degree upon th e ability to give

a close s m oo t h rapid sha v e
, , .
It is th e first service performed on the patron ,
and if done in a g e ntle smooth manner w ill place , ,
th e customer in such a sa t isfied and ch e erful fra me

of m ind that duri n g its progress he will mor e read
ily listen t o the opera t or s suggestions for a Hai r ’
Cu t Shampoo or Massage with the result that it

, , ,
paves th e way to cause t he customer to ac ce pt

the greatest amo u nt of se rv i c e .
A poor shav e w ill have th e r e v e rs e e ff ec t Y o u .
will not only lose the ex tra wo r k b u t subse qu e n t ,
patronage as well .
The up to date barb e r will n ever ask th e patro n

- -
to accept of a hair c u t as soo n a s h e tak e s th e chai r .
F irst go on and gi ve t he custome r the cl e v e rest

shave possibl e ; show hi m you a re an ar t ist as we l I
as a n ag re eabl e person H e will th e n be mo r e apt
.
to ac c ept yo u r pl e asantly phrased sugg e stions a n d

take all or ne arly all the s e rvi c e yo u o fle r a n d
, ,
ar e c o m p e t e nt t o pe r for m .
There is m o r e in m ethod a n d in policy than m ight

appear at fi r st gla nce to th e u ninitiat e d .
SH A V I N G M O V E M E N TS .
F i rs t :
Tak e a positio n at th e r ight sid e of th e chair th e
‘
left hand o n th e h e ad r est th e right hand on th e

,
r ec lining lev er per m it the patro n to b e sea t ed com

,
fo r ta b l y th en g e ntly r ec lin e the chai r t o the p r op e r

,
position .
S e cond:
R em ove with th e right hand the Hair C loth ,
w hich sho u ld at all tim e s when not in use be e lev

, ,
erly folded and laid on th e right ar m of the chair .
Spread it over the p a tron dra w in g it w e ll up o v e r

,
the cravat ; th en place the neck to we l on the breast

with the cor ner well back of the right e ar ; tu ck
neatly betwe en collar and neck to the c enter or ,
apple in n ec k the n tak e th e opp o site corner in the

,
ri g ht hand a n d c arry back of the left e ar tucking ,
in as on th e othe r sid e This will l e ave th e low e r

.
end of the towel layin g square across the br e ast and

ov er lapping th e Hai r C loth P la ce the shaving p a
.
per below th e end o f th e n ec k t ow e l and yo u ar e

r eady for l ath e ring .
T hi r d :
Tak e th e lather mu g in th e l e ft ha n d and pro
c e e d to th e hot w a t e r boil er ; r inse o u t cup a n d
brush thoro u ghly b e fo re usi n g o n e ach cu stome r ;
add a f e w d r ops of boiling wat er a n d sti r th e lath er
to abo u t th e co nsist e n c y of cre am A pply to th e .
b e a r d by a g en tl e rota r y mo v eme nt holdi n g th e ,

16 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF BA R B E R COLL E G E S
head in the palm of t he lef t hand s o that it may ,
be turned a t will with ease c om plet e ly co v ering

“ '
t he entire surface to be sha v ed Av oid as much as .
possible get t ing t he lather bet w een t he lips and

"
should any so lod g e remove i t w i t h the index finger

,
co v ered w ith a portion of the to w el This is impor .

«
t ant as m uch of t he pleasure of a s h a v e i s m arred by

,
a careless d aubing of the customer s mouth and m us ’
t ache w ith lather .
R ub the b e ard thorou g hly with the right h and ,
then spread a smoo t h co a ti n g o f lather over all por

tions to b e shaved this to keep the face from dry
,
ing in spots w h ile you are stropping t he ra z or N ow

, .
w ipe your hands dry an d commence to strop .
t
F o ur h :
Take the razor you are about to us e and strop o n

the canvas sid e first finishing up o n th e leather ,
.
0
With th e r 1 g ht thumb draw a line of de m a r k a

tion removing t he lather from above the center of
,
t he ri g h t e a r a r o un d and close unde r to the hair

, .
line W ipe the thumb dry on the towel covering

.
th e head rest and place it abo v e the Shaving line

, ,
dra w ing the skin tight and s t rai g ht u p never side ,

the cheek cleaning th e shaved portio n of the fa ce

,
thoro u ghly as you go s o the left hand will n ot slip

,
in dra w ing the skin tight whe n the second position

or back hand e d stroke i s employ e d a s shown i n
fi g ure 7 .
F I GU R E NO . 7 .
( S e c o n d po s i t i o n or ba c k ha n d s t ro ke . )
( N ote f ully how fa r dow n t he fa c e i s
c a re s ha v e d
i n fi r s t m o v e m e n t a n d t h e po i n t a t w h i c h t he s e c on d
po s i t i o n c o m m e n c e s ).
'
Si x t h :
With razor i n hand as shown o n preceding page ,
the se c ond mo v emen t or position is commenced .
With this m ov em ent the face should be shaved to t he

point of the chin dra w ing th e ra z or across the
,
h e a r d at an angl e of fo r ty fi v e d e gr ee s from yo u
-
.
S e v e nt h : V
T h e operator now goes back to first position in

holding the razor comm e ncin g a t the point of th e
,
chin and sha v ing the under jaw and n e ck down to

the gra i n of the hair as sho w n in figure below
,
.
F I GU R E NO . 8.
( N ote ca ref ul l y ho w fa r do w n t h e ne c k is s ha v e d
in t hi s m ov e m e n )t .
20 R OB I N S ON S Y S T E M OF BA R B E R COLL E G E S .
F I GU R E 9.
P i gfi r e 9 S h ows th e Op e r a to r S h a vi n g th e N e c k , U s ing
T h i rd P o s i ti on .
i t
E gh h :
I n c o m pl e ti n g th e right side o f th e fa ce by ,
shaving th e low er part of the n eck up to th e grai n

li ne of th e hair the artist m ay take e ith er th e fi r st
,
o r third position pr e f e rab ly th e latt e r for th e r e a

, ,
s o n t hat i h u sing it the o perato r is n o t r equi re d to

I LL U ST R A T E D BOO K OF IN ST R U C T I O N . 21
c ha n g e his p o siti on whil e i n th e former it i s nec

,
e ssary t o st e p di rec tly ba c k o f th e c hai r a n d h o l d

the razor as ill u strated in fig u r e 6 show n on page 1 7 , .
By e mploying th e third position in shaving

th e l o w e r p a r t o f th e nec k o n th e right side o f th e
fa ce th e r a zor mu st b e drawn at th e u sual angl e

”
of forty fiv e d e g ree s t o ward s th e op er ato r c o m

-
,
m e n c i n g a t th e bott o m of th e hai r a n d d r awi n g

th e strok e u pwa r d and towa r ds th e o p er ator a t th e
u s u al a n gl e o f for ty five d e g ree s a s sh o w n i n fi g
-
,
u re 9 .
N i nt h :
Sho u ld th e lath er dry whil e shaving th e r ight
side t u rn the patron s h e ad p r es e nting th e l e ft
,
’
,
sid e of th e fa ce r e l a th e r it a n d p rocee d t o st r op
, ,
th e razor In starting t o shav e th e l e ft side of th e

.
fa c e tra ce out the lin e of d em arkatio n as f o r mer ly

,
on t h e right side ; e ither of three p o siti o n s n a m ely , ,
th e first with th e hand t ur n e d ove r th e r ight th um b

, ,
on ba c k of r a z or as ill u st r a t e d i n figu r e 1 0
, .
O r s econ d positio n u si n g the back hand e d st r ok e

, ,
a s s h o w n i n fig ure 7 or thi r d p o si t io n as show n

, ,
i n figu r e 9 m ay b e u s e d i n st a rti n g This

, .
s i de of th e fa ce to b e divi de d in shaving ex a c tly si m

i l a r to th e r ight sid e .
Whe n th e u pp e r porti on of th e l e ft sid e of th e

fa ce is sh a v e d chang e t o positi on as show n i n
,
fig u r e 1 1 whi c h is fi r st positio n as u s e d on l e ft
'
side contin u ing t o poi n t of chin

, .
F I GU R E NO . 10 .
( N o t e pa rt i c ul a r l y t hi s i t i o n ; i t i s t he m o s t
po s
up to da t e s a fe s t a n d s pe e di e s t fo r t h e r e a s o n t ha t
- -
, ,
i t i s o n l y n e c e s s a r y to r a pi dl y t ur n the ha n d to t a k e
,
fi r s t po s i t i o n w i t h o ut turn i n g o r c ha ngi n g t he ra z o r
i n t h e ha n d .
)
ST R U C T I O N
.
I LL U S T R A T E D B O OK OF IN 23
' '
P i GU ‘
RI . no . 11 .
P i g ur e 1 1 S hows th e Op e r a t o r U s in g P i rst P o s i ti o n on
L e f t S i de of P a ce .
24 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF B AR B E R COLL E G E S .
Th en tak e se con d p o sitio n or b a c k h a n de d

,
‘
s tr o k e,
a n d shave to li ne o f hai r as sh o w n i n figu re

, 12 .
F I GUR E NO . 12 .
F ig ur e 1 2 I n S e co n d P o s i t i on on L e ft S i d e of Pa ce .
N ow ba c k to thi r d p o siti on as sh o w n i n fig ure 9

, ,
.
This is one o f th e ha r d e s t pla ce s t o shav e Gre at .
c a re mu st b e exer cis e d t o k ee p th e ski n d r a w n tightly ,
as ill u strated in figur e 1 3 on n ex t pag e .

26 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF BA RB E R C O L L E G E S .
F I GU R E NO . 14.
F ig ure 14 S h ows M et h o d of D rawin g S ki n A c r os s
Chin .
Sha v ing up to th e crease and about one half inch

below th e point of chin w ith the th u mb and inde x
,
finger gen t ly rais e the chin and use first or s e cond

,
posi t ion in sha v in g the neck do w n w ard to grain line

.
of hair N ow step bac k of the chai r and complete

.
t he neck shavin g u sing first position ; raise to lower

,
lip and fin i sh in like manne r being c areful to carry

,
razor flat on an g le of lip .
In sha v ing the upper lip t ake r azor in first p o

,
s i ti o n as sho w n in figure 6 S ha v ing the right sid e

,
from wi t hin one qua rte r in c h of the c e nter or up p er

lip creas e to the corner of the mouth Stretch th e
,
.
skin by placing th e thumb b e low th e corner of th e

mouth and the index fi n ger on th e nose To shave .
th e left side t u rn th e h e ad sl i ghtl y and take second

,
posi t ion or back handed strok e as sho w n in figur e ,
7. F inish the cente r of cre as e by pressing the skin ,
out be tw een the left thumb and inde x fing e r hold '
ing the razor in ei t he r t he first or se c ond position ,
w hiche v er is most convenient .
T e nt h :
The p atron is now sha v ed o n c e o v e r Th e ne x t

'
.
_
thing t o do i s to c lean and close the razor b e fo re

pla c i n g it on t he w ork bench N e v er leav e it open
. .
P rocure to w el dampe n ed in hot water and wipe

the face thoroughly of all lather ; strop th e razo r
again and pick up the water bottle w ith the r ight
hand h o l di n g th e razor b e tw een th e thumb and
,
»
ind ex fi n ger as show n in figu r e N o 1 5

'
. .
,
9
F I GU R E NO . 15
.
( N ote ca ref ull y t hi s i t i o n I t i s di ffi c ul t

po s . to do
l
c ev e r ly at i r s t t ho ug h
f , m o s t c o n v e n i e nt a n d g ra c e
f ul .
)
I LLU ST R A T E D BOO K OF IN ST R U C T I O N . 29
With th e wat er bottl e i n th e right han d dash a ,
small q u a n tity i n th e pal m o f th e l e ft ha n d a n d

damp e n th e fa ce m od e rat e ly To giv e a me di um .
close shav e start at th e c hin drawi n g th e razo r

, ,
quart er ly agai n st th e g r ain holding th e r a z o r at a n

,
angl e of fo r ty fi v e d e gre e s To give a v er y c lose

-
.
shave draw th e r azor dir ec tly against th e g r ai n of

,
th e hair k e eping th e fa c e damp e n e d at all ti me s

, .
To de t erm i ne wh e n th e whol e s u rfac e of the fa ce

is prop erly shav e d ke e p th e left hand flat on the
,
face never d epend on the tips of th e fi n g e r s a s

, ,
you will be apt to skip small portions .
W ipe the fa ce agai n w ith a mod e rat e ly h o t to w el .
Y ou are r e ady now to apply a n y one of th e follow

ing face lotions or washes B a y R um Wit c h Hazel , ,
B a y Hazeli n e L a ur e l i n e A lmond L o t ion L ilac A nti

, , , ,
septic K ern s A ntisepti c L otion A ntiseptic C uti z e n e

,
’
or F lorida Wat e r .
R ub i n well with both hands covering th e whol e ,
face D r y th e face with a clean to w el

. .
F inish the patron with any on e of the following

face cream s : Witch Hazel C ream O rien t al C ream , ,
Menthol C r e am C ampho r C re am C old C ream V iol e t

, , ,
F ace C ream C rea m of R oses or A laska F ac e C r e a m

, ,
.
R ub th e crea m in well and fan the face with a n

,
open towel until t h e cream is thoro u ghly dried in .
Then apply F rench B orated Talcum P owd e r by ,
sprinkling on the hands and rub in thoroughly .
If the patro n wears a musta c he and w ishes it

curl e d or dy e d this is the position in which to do it
, .
Th e curling may be don e w ith a h e ated slate pen c il

or th e fing e rs u sing tin foil o r paper W hen t his .
is compl e ted raise the cu stomer g e ntly in the c hair ;

,
30 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF BA R B E R COLL E G E S .
ta k e «
to w el from in fron t and t uck i n o u th e
th e -
back of the neck and sha v e the neck in accorda nce

w i t h t he style of hair cut w orn .
Take t he w ater or tonic bo t tl e in the right hand ;

place t he left hand on t he cro w n of the head R uf .
fle up the ha i r gently and squirt eno u gh water on

.
t o dampen sligh t ly rubbing the hair at the sam e

,
t ime B e careful t o note the s t yle th e patron s hair

.
’
wa s combed in t aking th e chair and t ry to duplicat e

, ,
using oil or v aseline if desired The patron should

.
al w ays be asked if he cares for t oni c of any kind

t o be used If he so el e c t s th e hair should b e brush
.
ed dry w ith a good stiff bristled brush before apply

ing tonic then rub toni c in well w ith t he hands
,
.
PA RT I I I - ~
HA I R C U TT I N G
Th e art of hair cu tt ing c an b e successfully de v el

oped only by those having a culti v a t ed eye for form ,
judgment good taste and me c hanical skill acquired

,
by large practice conscientio u sly pe r formed .
In the R obinson sys t em of C oll e ges the o p p o r tu ,
n i ti e s to bring out and fully de velop all these a t

tribut e s is offered o n a g enerous scale E v ery age .
and varie t y of subjec t in endless number em b racing ,
all kinds and condition s of h air as w ell as mos t e v ery

,
sha p ed h ead is presented t o t he student t o operate

,
upon This coupl e d w i t h expert ins t ruction gi v en

.
,
in de t ail by practical illus t ra t ion as w ell as v erbal

, , ,
cannot fail t o make of anyone w ho takes an acti v e

interest in t he ar t and tries to learn a t horoug hly
, ,
competent artis t in t his pa r ticular line .
A close s t udy of the shape of the patron s h ead ’

,
the exercise of good judgment in determining w ha t

form or character of hair c u t w ill be mos t b e co m
i ng
, and infinite patien ce in w orking to w ards t h e
accomplishment of the res u lts so u ght w ill g o a ,
long way in p e rfe c ti n g the op e rato r

The grea t ma j or i ty of people hav e to a greater
or l e s s e xte n t some i m perfection d e fect or m a l fo r
‘
matio n of the sk u ll and hence it is necessary t hat

,
the successful barb e r b e able to obli t erate or at .
least minimize the e ffe ct s produced by these condi

tions without embarrassing the patron by pointing
,
t hem o ut or seeking ad v ice a s to how to remedy

, .
th em H e r e is wh ere ta c t a n d go o d j udgm e nt of
.
for m will sta nd yo u well i n ha n d .
The following s u gg e stio n s if c ar e fu lly st u di e d a n d

m e m ori z ed will prov e o f val ue i n dire c ti n g yo ur e f
forts along right and s ti c c e s s ful li ne s :
F i rs t :
Whe n the patron is shaved and vol u ntarily or ,
oth e rwis e accedes to yo u r soli c itation for th e priv

ilege of cut t ing or trimming th e hai r make a m in u te , ,
mental sur v ey of the cont o ur of the head N ote .
whether or not t he last hair cut w as a becoming

one a s well a s any i m perfectio n s or irregulari t ies
, ,
such as co w lick scars thin spots e t c Then form

, , , .
your own idea as to what style w ould be best sui t ed

to the case in hand This requires bu t a minute
.
and w ill sa v e much time and t rouble and produce

better results than if no study of conditions w ere
m ade .
S e c o nd :
A physiognomical observation by glancing t hrough ,
th e mirro r from the rear of t he customer is also an ,
importan t poi n t in order to e nabl e the artist t o do a

beco m ing job .
T hi d :
r
The ear lo c k : F ront of the ea r sho u ld ne v e r be

-
c ut s o high as to expos e t h e end of th e c h ee k bone ,
especially whe n it i s prominent and the te m ple r e

cedes ( is hollow ) and i t should be out e ither s qu a re
,
or ro u nd and neve r pointed .
Fouth:
r
I t is poor taste to cut th e hair high up at th e ba c k .
It should r u n down an in c h or two below the botto m

the operator m ay co m menc e at the ba c k with eq u ally '
good res u lts F igure N o 1 6 gives the prop e r m eth o d

. .
of hol ding th e tools .
F I GU R E
( P r o pe r m e t ho d of ho dl ing s he a r s a n d c o m b. )
It will b e noted that th e shea r s and comb ar e both

held in t he righ t hand at all times t hus enabling the ,
ope r ator to a v oid the delay incident t o changing the

comb fro m t he right to the l eft hand w hen t he hair , ,
is held bet w een the inde x and second finger pre ,
paratory t o clipping .
The comb is h eld betwe en;the third and fourth o r

little fing er with the t ap er e ii d resting firmly against
‘ .
the heel of t he righ t hand This position giv e s fr e e

.
us e of the shears w hile t he hair is h eld i n the l e ft -

‘
hand .
The follo w ing plates are of the la t est , most p o p u

lar and up t o date hair cu t s and w ill gi v e t he student
.
- -
,
‘
or j o ur fi e y m a n a clear a n d comprehensi v e insi ght

in t o the styles whi c h should mos t lar gely occupy
t heir at t ention and t o w hich prac t ice should be most
,
direc t ed .
P late N o 1 7 illustra t es a C lip pe r C ut or F ull C rown

. .
I t is a very dressy a n d chic w ay of cutting the

hair on young men rangi n g from ten t o six t een
,
years and is in v ariably becoming t o persons of

,
t hat a g e .
It is simple and rapid to perform The clippers are .
used more ex t ensi v ely than in any other ; it i s only

im p ortant that care be exerc i sed in lining up g race
fully from t he cro w n of th e he ad to t he p oint a t
w h ich th e cli p pers are dispensed w i t h and the shears
’
e m ployed to finish on th e longer hair in front The .
len g t h of th e hair from t he cro w n of th e h ead t o

t he front should i ncrease gradually w ithout any per
c e p ti b l e jo g g le or difference e fi a c i n g the line at
, ,
w hich the clippers and shears me t .

36 R OB I N S O N SYS TE M OF BA R B E R C OL L E GE S .
F I GU R E N O. 1 7 .
P i g ur e 17 I l l us t r a t es C l i pp e r C ut , or Pull C r o wn .
F I GU R E NO . 18.
F ig ure 18 I l l us t r a t e s a Ha l f C r o wn Ha i r C ut .
Th e half crown cut illus t rat e d in P lat e N o 1 8 .
is perfo r med in exa c tly the same m ann e r e xc ept ,
that the clippe r lin e should t e rminat e abo u t one i nc h

above the top of the ear leaving the hair in front
,
so mew hat longer and full er looking tha n the clipp er

cut sho w n in plate N o 1 7 and finds its m ost appro
.
,
p r i a te s u bj e c ts ranging from sixteen to e ighteen

years .
P I G-U R I : N O . 1 9 .
P i g ur e No. 1 9 I l l us t r a t e s a "ua r t e r S h i n g l e Out .
This is what is termed a q u art e r shingl e ; is pop

ular with yo u ng business m e n and c l er ks and has
a tendency to gi v e fullness of appearance t o th e

back of th e h ead and neck To p eople inclined to
.
slenderness t he bot t om is t rimmed square

, .
~
This style beco m es most any shap e d head and is ,
particularly suited to heads lacking the proper con

tour of fullness a t the back and w ith a full fore
,
head and face It i s also adapted to co v er a t hin

.
or long ne c k .
It is quarter shingled and may vary i n length in

proportion t o t he size of the head and length of th e
neck from three to four inches all over t he head
, ,
e x cep t ing on the back of th e neck and around t he

e ars i t is shingled about an inch shorter o n t he ,
-
tip e nds not too high up ; from on e half to one inch

,
high Wh e n i t is to be worn parted in th e cen t er

.
and b r ushed down flat t he fr o n t h a i r should b e left

,
long enough to reach do w n t o the ears and a v oi d ,
a break at the corn e rs of the forehead B ut w hen .
it i s intended to be roach ed up or brush e d back th e

‘
top lock m ay be cut a little shorter E ithe r the cen .
t e r side or doubl e part may be w orn with this cut

, .
O r it may b e w orn br u sh e d back P ompadour style

.
( w itho u t pa r t i ng ) .
4O R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF BA R B E R COLL E G E S .
F I GU R E NO . 20
.
T he a bo v e p l a t e ill us t r a t e s i de nt i c a ll y the s a me
s t yl e of c ut as No 1 9 e x c e pt t he ha i r i s w a v y
. , .
F I GU RE N O . 2 3.
P la t e No . T hi s p l a t e s ho w s l o n g h a i r a s w o r n
b y m us i c i a n s e l o c u
, t i o n i s t s l e c t ur e rs pr e a c he rs a n d
, , ,
o t he r p r o f e s s i o n a l m e n .
T he ha i r i s a bo u t fo ur i nc he s l o n g a ll o v e r the
.
h e a d a n d s hi n g l e d a r o u n d t he e dg e s do w n to o n e a n d
o n e ha l f i n c h e s I t i s o ut v e r y lo w dow n o n the n e c k
. ,
to a l m o s t r e a c h do w n t o t h e c o a t c o ll a r .
I t m a y be w o r n pa t e d i n t he c e nt e r s i de o r b r us h
r , ,
e d ba c k w i t h o u t pa rt i n g Ge ma n s t ude nt s t y l e
, r .
T he s t y l e be c o m e s m o s t a n y s ha pe d h e a d b u t is
,
m o re be c o m i n g to s m a ll h e a ds a n d l o n g n e c k s .
OF IN ST R U C T I O N . 43
P I GU R B NO . 23 .
F i g ur e No . 23 R ep r e s e n ts th e P om p a d o ur C ut .
The pompado u r illus t rated above ( N o 2 3 ) w hile .
not s o much em p loy e d a s formerly is nevertheless ,
still mu ch in vogue among a certain class In mak .

~
ing this cut th e hair is dampened and a lit t le pomade

,
o r vaseline is r u bbed well in t o the hair to make it

lay or brush up while the line of trimming is being
struck This line should taper only slightly d o wn
.
ward from the front to th e crown or back .

44 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF
”
BA R B E R COLL E G E S .
M i l i ta r y , or E n gli sh f ea th er E dg e .
Th e hai r c u t illustrated in P l a te N o 2 4 abov e is .
,
one n ot ea sil y p e rfo r m e d ; th e nec k t r i mm ing o r

sha v ing is m uch hard e r than i n hai r c u ts that r e
qui re a p er fe c tly r ound o r squ a re o u tli ne o n th e
botto m I n this s tyl e it is nece s s ary t o d r aw a
.
ne arly st r aight s having li n e from b e hind th e e a r ,
along th e q u arter o f th e n e c k to as far dow n as th e

‘
hair grows It is c alled and g ener ally k n own as

.
the Military o r E nglish F e ath e r e dg e

“
It is m uc h .
”
i n vogue am o ng m ilitary m en and th o se who d re ss

in u nifor m s T o t r im to a f e ath er e dg e a n d m ak e a
.
I LL U ST R A T E D BOO K OF IN ST R U C T I O N .
'
45
ne at job th e fi ne en d o f th e barb er com b o r a sp ec i a l

,
nec k comb mu st be us e d Th e c lipp er s ar e ne v er

.
em pl o y e d in this hai r cu t ; th e work is en tirely d o n e

with co mb a n d sh e a r s Th e fro n t is fi n ish e d muc h
.
th e same as th e half shingle show n in plat e N o 1 9 . .
P I GU R I : 2 5.
Th e “D uc h e s s ” or
“M a r th a J o h n s o n ”
, .
Th e Duc h e ss or Marth a J oh n s on hai r cu t show n i n

plate N o 2 5 is worn mostly by children ra ng in g in
.
,
ag e f r om thr ee to t en y e ars A s ill u strated th e front

.
,
is c ut on a s light c ur v e about m id w ay dow n th e

forehead and in the back it is c u t o r bobbed o ff
,
at th e hair li ne on the n ec k It is left qu it e fu ll all

.
around so that th e ea r s a n d just ba c k of th e t em pl e

,
m ay be h e avily c ov e r e d .
The abo v e fi g ure S ho w s a side v iew of a B u siness “
C ut ,
and is similar t o t he A la mode sho w n in
” “ - -
”
F igure 2 1 exce p t t ha t it is not cut so high in the

,
nec k .
LI N I N G UP .
O ne of th e most essential points in prod uc ing a

neat looking hair cut is to use great care in o u t
lining the bo t tom and edges ; dra w ing the c urv e or
strai g ht line as th e case may be in a true uniform
, ,
manner This w ill g 1v e t he appearance of good

.
balance .
I t is also important tha t from the starting lin e

a t the bot t om and side edges t he finish give th e
,
appearance of a very gradual in fact almost i m

, ,
perceptible increase l n l e n g t h to th e point of gr e at

,
e s t fullness o r length of hair .

48 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF BA R B E R COLLE G E S .
US E O F C L I PP E RS .
I n lat er y e ars th e styl e of hai r c u tti n g h a s i n a

very g ener al way un de r g o n e m any c hanges Wh ere .
for me rly th e clipp er s wer e freque ntly reso r t e d t o

as an aid i n r apid w or k the int r oductio n and adop
m f the ne w or l a t e st styl e s as ill u strated i n this
,
book fro m a c t u al photogr aphs a n d li ne drawi n g s f r o m

life have been of such a c hara c t er as to almost e lim
,
i n a te the clipper N owadays the pat r on d e ma n ds a

.
hair c u t of a styl e that re quires that the w o r k b e

done almost entir e ly with th e sh e ars and c omb .
Ho w ever it is important to learn to operat e th e

,
c lippers in a d ex te r ous a nd rapid m ann r This e .
can be ac c ompli shed by paying close attention to .
learning from th e sta r t to give a fu ll strok e from

e xtr eme to e xt reme a n d not crowd them along too
fast ; carry the m o n a tru e lin e controlling the m i n
,
such a way that th e y will n ot w o bble O n e o f th e .
best e x ercis e s is to draw a li ne o n a piec e of pape r ;

t r ac e it out whil e m oving the sid e of th e c lipp er
along the lin e and e nd e avo r to n ot e th e prog re ss o f
running true to the li ne .
5o R OB I N S O NS Y ST E M OF BA R BE R COLL E G E S .
hair and thereby rob the sebaceous glands a n d

hai r follicles of the nu trim e nt req u isite to its g r owth
a n d d eve lop m en t .
It also prev e nts th e hai r from splitting at th e

e nds and br e aking off Si n geing sho u ld be done i m
.
m ediat e ly aft er th e hai r is c u t and the taper mu st

b e passed r apidly o v er th e hai r e nds whil e th e
. ,
-
sa me is held i n th e co m b or fing er .
P A RT I V B E A R D T R I M M I N G
-
A F EW P OIN TS TO BE O B S E RV E D I N T RIM M‘I N G

B EA RD .
F i st:
r
The beard and the hair should never b e dis c on

n e c te d on the temple ; they should be cut to blen d
into each o t her evenly .
S e co nd :
W h e n a beard is trimmed close to the side of th e
face and t he c h in beard is w orn lon g i t should be ,
of a gradual length s o a s to mee t th e lon g beard

w it h out s h o w ing a blun t ed g e or a no t ch a t the sid e
of t h e chin s o as to a v oid t he appearance of a chi n
,
beard and the newly grown he a r d on t he other par t

of the fac e .
T hi r d :
When the beard is w orn lon g or a medium length, ,
th e side belo w the ears on t he end of t he j aw should

b e trimm e d so a s t o avoid bus h iness I t s h ould also .
be trimmed of a gradual len g t h under th e j a w and

chin and come t o a clos e out on t he lo w er part of
th e n e c k .
F o ur t h
Wh en th e bea r d g r ows spa r ingly or of a light er ,
shad e on the side of the fac e and g r ows thi c k o r o f

, , ,
a da r k er shad e on th e c hi n it sh ou ld no t b e tri m
, ,
52 R OB I N S O N S Y S T E M OF BA R B E R COLLE G E S .
me d v er y c los e ov er th e c hi n or light pa r t s o a s to
,
equ ali ze th e app e a r a nce .
F i fth :
A ft er having trim me d a b e a r d or mu sta c h e th e

p ro p er sh a p e with th e sh e ars a razo r h e ld fi rm ly
,
o v er th e com b sh ou ld b e d r aw n o ve r th e s ur fa ce
o f th e he a r d or mu stache by c o m bing it to shav e
,
th e r o u gh st r aggli n g hai r a n d giv e th e b e a r d a s o ft

,
app e ara nce .

I LL U ST R A T ED BOO K OF IN S T R U C T I ON . 53
F I GU R E NO . 28.
“
E N G L ISH MI L IT A RY ”
Thi s styl e whiske r is b e co m ing to mo st any fa ce ,
exce pti n g a v e ry short or full face It is shav en u p

.
o n the sid e fr om the cor n er of the mouth straight

,
back to 1 or 1 % inches below the ears It is t r i m .
me d short about one half in c h long on f u ll fa ce a n d

—
f r o m 1 to in c h e s o n a thin face With this whi s

.
ke r th e m u stache should be roll e d well up and c o m b

e d o u t loos e and b r ush e d back o r the curli n g ir on
,
m ay b e u sed t o giv e it a n easy bend .

F I GU R E NO . 29.
P i g ur e No . 29 S h ow s a. R us s i a n P oi n t Trim .
This style of beard is becoming to a thin face or

to a pointed or narrow c h in It i s trimmed to 4 .
3
inch long on t he side according t o th e fullness of

,
the face Gradually increasing in length to

'
i n ches at the center of the chin O n the sid e of th e .
c hin clear u p to t he mustache it i s cut to give th e

chin the prop e r S hape and trim me d under the j aw
,
to bring it dow n to a feather edge on the nec k a n d

a lso on th e ch e ek wh e n the beard grows u p high
and thick Th e top of th e cheeks and low e r pa r t of

.
I LL U ST R A T E D B OOK OF IN ST R U CT I O N . 55
th e n e ck may b e eithe r shave n o r clipp e d then th e ,
edges of th e b e ard featheredg e d to bl e nd with th e

sha v en edge .
The mustach e is slightly bent with a curling iron ,
or with the fing e rs then combed or brushed u p

,
loos e ly .
F I GU R E NO . 3 0
T HE V A N D Y K E O R B U SI N E SS MA N S ST Y L E ’
is on e of the most popular both in styl e and co m

fo r t It is very largely worn in hot w e ather ; it
.
giv e s th e p r ofil e of th e fa ce in a m o re c lea r wa y

56 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF B A R B E R
'
COLLE G E S .
th a n mo st a n y o th er styl e I n additi on i t i s a t r i m
.
that i s e asily a cc o m plish e d by taki n g c a re t o h a v e

th e p o int t erm i n a t e ex a c tly b e l o w th e cen t er li ne o f
th e c hi n; a n d the l en g th o f th e hai r g r ad u ally di m i n
i s h t o a p o i n t ne a r ly o pp o sit e t o th e corne rs o f th e
mou th F rom th e r e to th e hai r lin e ab o v e th e e a r
.
it sh ou ld b e c los e ly c ropp e d and c l e v er ly bl en d e d i n t o

th e hai r lin e .
F I GU R E NO . 31.
“L Du
Pigure N o. 31 I l l us t r a t e s th e or d n dr e a r y ” T r i m .
Show s th e Lor d D u nd re a r y whisk er old b u t

“
,
” —
stylish a n d b ecom i n g t o a tall m a n a n d dign ifyi n g

F I GU R E NO . 32.
The t
P ar ed B ea r d, or
“D ud e L ew i s ”
T ri m .
I I
T HE D V D E D B E A RD .
Worn al m ost e x clusively by m embers of the l e gal

and medical profession In trimming this b e ard the
.
,
first thing to do is to thoroughly brush the beard to

either side from the middle draw an imaginary ,
lin e from th e lobe of the ear ve r tically and t r im th e

o u tline accordingly This g i ve s th e squa r e j aw e d
.
app e arance and widens t h e eff e ct of the fa c e This

,
.
is t h e d e sid er atum .
F I GU R E NO . 33.
T HE FU LL BE A RD .
This shows a F ull B eard ; this m ay be worn w ith

“ ”
or without a mus t a c h e and the length and fulln e ss

should be in correspondence with the size of th e
w e arer and should b e trimmed w e ekly o r semi
,
m onthly Th e S ides by the e ars sho u ld b e c ut short

.
en ough to harmoni z e wi t h the fullness of the fac e ,
also on th e e nd of the j aw bone b e low the ears .
Th e e nd i s tri m med to a point e ith e r ro u nd or sharp

, ,
60 R OB I N S O N S Y S T E M OF BA R B E R COLL E G E S .
to u it th e w e a re r s fa nc y a n d b e i n k ee pi n g with
s
’
th e f e at ure s Th e wild hai r s s h ou ld b e c lipped to

.
giv e it a ne at s m oo th app e a r an ce Wh en th rou gh

, .
tri mm i n g a b e ard th e ra z o r sh ou l d b e u s e d o v er
th e com b ( t o shav e th e en d o f the hai r whi c h is ,
cu t s qu a re o ff by th e sh e ars ) , t o giv e it a soft f ee ling .
B E A RD T R I MMI N G .
B eard tri mm ing is also an a r t eq u ally a s i m p o rta n t , ,
if n ot mo r e s o tha n hai r c u tting Th e fa ce o f a p er

, .
s on is noti ce d b e f ore a glan ce of th e h e a d i s tak e n

'
What e ve r b e ard a m an w e a r s it sho u l d b e t r i mme d ,
and shap e d to har m oni ze with his f e at u r e s ; wheth er

it is a f u ll beard or othe r styl e of whisk e rs E v e ry
, .
m an sh ou ld w e a r so me kind o f b e a r d a s it was giv e n ,
m a n tO o r n a m e n t his fa ce as hair i s give n t o o r n a

‘
men t th e h e ad of a wo m an It also giv e s disti nc tion .
of pow er In old en ti m es a long a n d h e avy b e a r d

.
was c on sider e d a n indication o f wisdom A hand .
some m an is handsom e r with the prop e r style of

b e ard and ho m ely or coarse f ea tur e s a re s o ft e n e d
,
by th e w e aring of beco m ing whisk er s whi c h de tra c t ,
fro m the c oars e ness of the feat u res .
A full b e a r d whe n properly trimm e d b ec o me s m ost

every m an b u t whe n it does n ot grow f u ll en o u gh
, ,
or of any e v e n thi c k n ess it m ay b e shav en i n va r io u s

,
styles The short broad fac e is improv e d by a c hi n

.
,
b e ard whil e a long thin fa ce i s broad e n e d and a p

, ,
pears S hort er by wearing side whisk er s A m us .
ta c he shad e s o fi a la r g e n os e also co v er s a hom e ly ,

m outh bad t ee th a n d thi c k lips Th e I m p erial ( o r

, .
goatee ) i s t r yi n g to ce rtai n typ e s of fac e altho u gh ,
it has be e n ex t en sively and is still worn by many

, , .
T HE M U ST A C H E .
M u sta c h e trim m i n g should also be do ne with art

,
and not only with th e aim of short e ning it

F ew mu
.
staches ar e improv e d by t r imming An .
ex tr e mely long straggling must ac h e m ay be tri m

,
me d dow n some witho u t gi v ing it a s ti fi bristle

, ,
lik e app e a r a nc e Or a ragg e d m u stach e may be

.
trimm e d to imp r ov e th e shape and b e m ade to look

smooth an d so me mu staches may look fairly well
,
t r immed down b ru sh style but it m ust be shingl e d ,
som e to gi ve it a shap e Th e squar e c u t broom .

—
style is al m ost to o u gly to b e wo rn

—
.
An oth er hom e ly w ay to trim a m u stach e is to cu t

it short over the m o u th and to lea v e l o ng ends ,
C hi n es e lik e .The ends should always b e trimm e d

down to harmonize with th e balan c e .
A m u sta c h e should al w ays be dress e d or r oll e d to

giv e it a natu ral easy appearan c e W h en i t is
, .
r o ll e d on paper o r curle d with an iro n or slate pe n

c il it sho u ld be combed o u t i n a n easy and n at u ral
'
wa y . Ar tifi c ial app e arances sho u ld always b e a v oid

e d I t i s v e ry poor tast e to leav e th e mu sta c h e
.
roll e d u p i n a b unc h .
V HA I R
‘
P A RT -
DRE S S I N G
N o up to dat e barber and e sp ec ially lady ba r b er s

- -
, ,
c a n well a ffo r d to neglect learning th e art o f hair «
dressing It has of lat e years become on e of t h e

.
'
prin c ipal so u r c es of income to many of the fi r st

c lass shops and s o long as th e country is bl e ss e d
,
with prosperous tim e s th e comp e t e nt hairdr ess er

,
mu st c ontinue to enjoy a larg e patronag e M u ch .
of the success that a t tends t he compe t ent ar t ists

in this line is t he res u lt in a large way of pe r sonal ,
e ffort .
In every community wher e social e nt e rt a inm e nt s ,
dan ce s w e ddings and parties of o ne kind a n d a n

,
other ar e held and u po n all p u blic occasions th e

, ,
av e rage la dy would b e only too glad to hav e her

'
c oiff ure prepared by a comp e t e nt artist if such ,
servic e we r e at hand .
If thro u gh pers o nal e ffor t a nu mb er of th e lead

ing ladies of th e communi t y can b e ind uce d to try
th e ex perim e nt it will b e surprising how soon a
,
go o d trade c a n b e dev e loped in this lin e both at ,
the shop and in m aking c alls by app o i n tm en t at

, , ,
the re side nce s of pat r ons .
Ther e is n o c alling that c a n be lear ne d s o re ad i ly

and e asily and no n e that s o littl e sto c k a n d s o
,
muc h of lab or is u s e d i n t urn i n g ou t satisfa c t or y

w o rk This me a n s ne arly a l l c l e a r profit
. .
A nother gr e at advantage off e red to lady ba r b er s

l e a r ning the hai r dressing trade is the S pl e ndid o p ,
p o r tun i ty it pr e sents of e nabling t hem to me e t and

b e co m e fa v orably acquaint e d w ith the foremost
women of the community It is th e refore n e c e s
.
, ,
sary for the artist to learn the trad e thoroughly and

comple t ely fa m iliarizing thems e lves with the latest
,
P arisian and Do mestic coiffures Th e only pla ce .
the trad e c an b e l e arned in t his m a nne r i n th e N orth

w est i s a t o n e o f th e branches o f the R obinson
.
“
Syst e m of B arb e r Co lleg e s .

”
B y a careful st u dy of the following plates a good

id e a of the m e thod of st ar ting to pr e par e and the
progress and dev e lopm e nt of th e work d u ring the '
a c complishm e nt o f a stylish and up to dat e hai r

'
- -
dress may be h a d The trade is ta u ght c ompl e te

,
i n all its branches ma ll the i n stitu tions u nd er this

m anagement Th e s e plates w e r e m ade from lif e
.
drawings of Hai r dr e ss pr e pared by ou r L ady I n

s tr uc to r .
Th e follo w ing fiv e plat e s giv e in s er iati m th e

for m and mod e fro m sta r t to c o m pleti on of a poi n t e d
, ,
pompadour showing th e ba c k a n d f ron t sid e vi e w

, ,
as fi n ish e d .
64 R OB I N S O N S Y S T E M OF BAR B E R COLL E GE S .
P I G-U R I : N O . 3 4 .
P l a te N o. I .
Wav e th e hair all around th e h e ad pa r t th e hai r

,
transv e rs e ly f r om ear to ear also m ak e a sid e part

,
ing and r ais e th e hai r on the sid e s l e aving it ve r y

,
flu ffy a n d fast e n with co m bs a s i n di c at e d in th e

d e sign .
66 R OB I N S O N S Y S T E M OF BA R B E R COLLE G E S .
with pa r t of it first fo rm a r ing whi c h is h e ld i n th e

l e ft ha n d th en with th e r ight hand form a n o th e r
,
.
r ing w hich is p l a c e d o n on e side R e p e at this o n the

‘
oth er sid e .
NO . 37.
P l a te No . I V.
A ft er fastening the k n ot at th e bas e of th e nec k ,
a dd th e o r na m ent whi c h is composed of tw o b r an c hes

,
of roses a n d l e aves fo r ming a half cro wn a n d r aised

i n f r ont .
P I GU R I : N O. 3 8
P l a te N o . v.
P R OF I L E VI E W OF T HE T E R M I N A T E ") C OI F F U R E .
68 R OB I N S O N S Y S T E M OF BA R B E R COLL E G E S .
F I GU R E NO . 39.
NE W P AT E N T OR P OI N TE D P O M PA D O U R .
This is a strikingly bea u tifu l C o i fi ur e for ladi e s

having a short full app e a r ing fa ce It has th e e fi e ct
, .
of gi v ing a lengthened appearan c e t o th e c ountenanc e ,
as shown in t his front view The dip gives it a

.
smart c hic to n e ; i t i s easily pr e par e d Th e tw o

,
“
.
s m alle r plates give the type of ready to u se po m p a - -
do u r e mployed i n i ts c ons tru cti o n .

F I GU R E N O. 4 0.
P i g ur e N o . 4 0 i ll us t r a t e s t h e “M a r y A n d e r s o n ”
.
or P a rt e d
Ha i r d r e s s , P r on t V i e w.
F I GU R E
P i g ur e N o . 4 1 i s th e S i d e V i ew of th e s am e Ha i r dr e u
as P ig ure No . 4 0, and is on e of the l a te s t and m os t
f a s hi o n a b l e pr epa r e d .
FI GU R E HO 42
4 2 r ep r e s en t s a m uc h ar Ha i r dres s , ex
cept th a t i t i s ma d e up l o wer d own i n th e N e c k .

72 RO B I NS ON S Y S TE M OF BA R B E R
S HA MPO O I NG
F I GU R E NO . 43
T h e a b o v e F i g ur e s h o w s t h e A r ti st i n th e a ct of S ham
pooi n g th e He a d .
I n a pp y l i ng t i l it h r i li q u id
th e s ha m p oo ma er a , e e n
or p t f rm
as e mu t b
o , r i d t
ca r e t u t s e ex e c se o no se oo
mu h w t r
c p r m i t th
a e , l t h r t u i t th y
n or e e a e o r n n o e e es
or d w tho k I r i i g th h i v t h b i
n e n ec . n ns n e a r o er e a s n,
th e w k h u ld b d
or s t h ug h l y
o d th eh d on e oro , an e ea
an d k w ll d i d b f r ll wi g th p t
nec e r e t s e o e a o n e a r on o a
s um e t p iti
an t h u b vi ti g t h di ffi ult y
erec os on, s o a n e c ,
ft pe i d f ll wi g w t t u d w th ’
o en ex r en c e , o a o n a er o r n o n e
f a ce d k f th u t m r
an nec o e c s o e .
H A I R T R E A TM E N T A ND K N O W L E DG E .
Hair is ind e ed v e ry like money when one c om e s

, , ,
to t hink of it When you have plen ty of m on e y

.
,
you don t a p pre c iat e it ; t is the sam e with hair

’ ’
.
Y our hair like your m oney fades a w ay e asily and

, ,
you hardly realize what has happened to you S o .
one day yo u put your hand to your head and realiz e

that you are a c andidate fo r the front row O r .
something ca u ses yo u to go into your j e ans for t h e

-
roll and you are s u rpris e d at t he way it has sh run k .
Something has happe n ed to your hai r and it is ,
goi n g So me thing also has knocked yo u r roll

. .
Thus th e re a re two kinds of hai r decay nat u ral

,
—
and acquired To sp e ak simply and w itho u t p uz

.
z li n g s c i en tifi c j argon it m ay b e said that n atur al

,
hair d ec ay i s di fli c ul t to ov e r c om e The edi c t o f .
N at u re is larg e ly irre v o c abl e B ut muc h m ay b e .
done to ward o ff N at u r e s m arch toward n o hai r ’

-
.
J ust as a n old m a n may prolong his life by c ar e ,
proper living th e u s e of n utrient food and s o on

, , ,
s o th e hair m ay b e h e lp e d and th e decay pro ce s s -
fo u ght by t re at me nt by the u s e o f pr e pa r ation s

,
c o n tai n ing c h em ical fa c tors whi c h stim u late hai r

g r owth An d it m ay b e said that m ost of the hai r
.
t o ni c s h a v e m or e o r l e ss h e ali n g a n d sti mu lati n g

properti e s a n d th e ir i nt e llig e nt u s e is to b e c o m
m en d e d .
Th e o th er ki n d of hai r d ec ay or h a i r si c k ne ss
- -
I LL U ST R A T E D BOOK OF ’
I N S T R U C T I ON . 75
the ac q uired c ondition is t e mporary Th i s tem

—
.
p o r a r y w e ak n ess o r loss of hai r is c aus e d through

so m e ge neral ill n e ss as typhoid for e xample ; or
, ,
it m ay be ca u se d by dise a se caught fr o m a brush

o r c omb In cases of this k i n d tr e a tm e n t is always
.
, ,
ben e fi c ial The sick hair r equir e s attention just as

.
m uch as any other fo rm o f S pecifi c illness Th e , .
qu ery is What is th e fo rm of hai r sickness and

,
how c an it be best treated " A t pres e nt hair kn o wl ,
edg e i s somewha t limited to sp e cialists bu t i n fo r ,
ma t ion of this kind is rapidly spreadin g among the

barbers In time th e i n tellig en t barb e r will know
.
m uch A t pr e s e nt he guess e s
. .
N euralgia is a frequent c a u se of falli n g h a i r In .
a c as e of this ki n d electric scalp m assag e is a cur a

tive age nc y The v a l u e of th e shampo o li e s c hi e fly
.
in th e fact that in a l l scalp diseas e s wh e th er m ark e d ,
or even s c a r cely discoverabl e c l e a n li ne ss is the ,
first e ssential o f a cu re Th e shamp o o b r ings abo u t

.
this conditio n A gai n m an y dis e as e b ree di n g mi

.
,
-
o robe s c a n not withsta n d soap and w at e r A g o od .
lath e r is death to th em s o o n gen e ral p r i n cipl e s

, , ,
the shampoo i s th e si m pl e st r e me dial and c u rativ e

ag en t fo r ha i r t r o u ble .
A t th e r oo t of e a c h hai r o n th e body the re is a

ce ll or ato m of m att er c a ll e d pigme nt and thi s ,
giv e s th e hai r its co lo r Wh en fr om any c a u se

, , ,
this pigmen t dri e s u p o r is ex ha u st e d g r ayn e ss sets ,
i n Th e ph ysi cians c a ll th i s / p i g m e n ta r y atrophy

.
~ a
.
A t ro phy is e asily ex plain e d Wh e n a thing fails .
t o re a c h f u ll d e v e lopm en t o r d ec ays afte r full d e

,
v e l o p m e n t i t is said to b e at r ophi e d
,
F o r instan ce . ,
old ag e is a c o n di ti o n of atrophy whil e yo u th m ight

‘
,
76 R OB I N S O N S Y S T E M OF BA R B E R C OL L E G E S .
b e s aid t o be a con diti on o f hyp er tro ph y O r t o .

,
m ak e it s i m pl er at ro phy is l e ss tha n enou gh whil e

, ,
hyp er t ro phy i s more th a n en o u gh Th e en l a r g ed

.
h e a r t is hyp er t ro phy ; th e shriv e l e d li m b is at ro phy .
P e rf ec ti o n is th e me di um li ne b e tw een a tr o ph y a n d
hyp e rtr o phy a n d th e r e is no livi n g b e i n g who ex
,
a c tl y sta n ds on this li ne .
(T he publi s he r s i nde bt e d to t he “B a r be r s ’
a re
J o ur n a l fo r m u t he s e v a l ua ble S ugge s t i o n s
”
ch of .
)
I LL U ST R A T E D BOO K OF IN S TR U CTI ON . 77
PA RT V I .
-
MA S SAGE
M assage is a n ece ssary adjun c t in our m odern

lif e In the old days before men tho u ght so mu c h
.
, ,
wh e n t h ey liv e d by mus c le not by br a ins m assage

, ,
was u nknown e x cept t o a few of the l e ader s such ,
as C aesar and oth e rs These w orld worn men con

.
-
,
du c ti n g m arvelo u s e nt e rpris e s sleeping little and ,
e aten up with ambitio n s u ff e r e d the same as the

,
m od e rn man d o es That is th e y w e r e victims of

. ,
ove rwork and t heir health f e ll away They the r e .
for e employed a crude form of massage to coun

te r a c t the e ff ects of th e physical a n d mental hard
ships t hey underw e nt B ut th e m ajority of th e
.
people w ere livi n g a slow m ental life and n e c e s ,
s a r i ly ex e rcising in order to g e t their li v elihood ,
eithe r in war or in the field or in r ough wo r kman ,
ship they had no ne e d for massage

, .
N owadays however this is all changed A large

, , .
pa r t of th e w orld makes its living e nti re ly through

tho u ght while the other millions w ho e ar n a li v e
,
li h o o d through muscle e if ort alon e have necessarily

mor e mental activity than th e men of a thousand
y ears ago
’
They read bo o ks they read th e papers

.
, ,
they p u rsue pleasure ; s o that it may be said gen

o rally that th e m o de r n a v erage physical c ondition
.
has no co m parison with th e ancient To o fi s e t this .
tend e ncy to d e generat i on th e hygienists have st e p

p e d in a n d hav e lo u dly pr e a c hed the b e n e fits of
78 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF BA R B E R C OLLE G E S .
e xe rc is e bathi n g a n d m assage pa r ti cu larly th e lat

, ,
te r Massag e is a sti mu lator It m akes th e bl oo d

. .
m ore activ e It brings the sluggish blood fro m

.
c ertai n inn e r c enters of th e body and fet c hes i t t o

the ex terior to th e m us cl e s to th e skin It is a
,
‘
, .
regenerator .
C h em ical facial a n d s c alp massage ar e p a r ti c u

l a r l y val u able In the fa ce a n d i n the s c alp a re
.
many small arteri e s and c apillaries Thes e b e c om e .
clogged w i t h impure blood Ow ing to an e nfeebl e d .
or Slow heart action the rich blood purified with , ,
th e o x ygen taken in t o t he lungs do e s not f u lly rea c h ,
t hese minute capillaries and ther e fore they are n ot ,
t horoughl y cleansed at each h e art beat as they ,
are in fact in the body of a n athlete or a t hor

, ,
oughly heal t hy man A nd it is right here that mas

.
sage steps i n With the hand or by aid of m achin

.
ery it kneads the skin of t h e face and scalp it com ,
press e s depresses and fetches the blood into th e

,
m illions of capillaries and min u t e veins In this .
w ay the dead mat t er is remov e d a n d a h e althfu l

a n d t o ni c e ff ec t i s pr o du ce d .
I n th e primi t ive stages of mass a ge m echanics ,
we r e not known but today they are Many me n

, .
hav e bro u ght m assag e to a scien ce and hav e call e d

in me chanical aid to g e t the bes t re s u lts Th e re .
fo re we n ew hav e i n the tonsorial trad e s two fo r ms

,
o f m assag e m achi n es o n e dri v e n by c ompress e d

‘
ai r and on e d r i ve n by e l ec tricity .
Th e s e m a c hi ne s ar e s o p er fect e d a n d a re now
fitted with sp ec i a lly d e signed appli c ato r s that th e y
d u pli c at e th e w or k of th e me r e h um a n a th ou s a n d .
fo ld .
The m achin e s now being o fi e r e d the barb er tra d e

have a pla c e in ev ery good c lass barber shop a n d -
,
in high class shops are an absol u te ne ce ssi t y It

-
.
has been the e x p e rien ce of barbers that w h e r e the s e ,
m a c hin e s are in us e they attract c uriosity and , ,
t h a t thei r ser v ic e once tak e n be c o me s a r e gu la r

, ,
part of t h e shaving operation It is also e qually .
certain that in a short time the machines p ay for

the first cost and after that they gi v e an enormous
,
return on th e in v estment If any barb er is not y e t .
pos t ed on th e question of massage both as a s c ience ,
and as a feature of shop work he should d r op a ,
line t o the n e arest branch of the R obinson Sys t em

of B arber C olleges and l e arn at first hand th e , ,
more impor t ant details of administering it and th e ,
special benefits t o be derived from it .
There are t hree kinds of massage that are esp e

c i a l l y worthy of learning thorough l y .
The C hemical invented and most succ e ssfully i n

,
tr o duc e d by Mr E M R obinson mana g er and chie f

. . .
,
instructor The V ibratory and the straight E l ec

.
tr i c a l
. The plain Head and F ace Massage is most
r e sorted to in c ountry barb er s h o p s wh e r e t he t rad e ,
'
is usually not s o exacting in the ser v ice required .
The g e neral principle or object so u g ht in mas

sage is to op e n u p th e pores of the s kin remo v e ,
all impurities apply to t he cuticl e and scalp r e

,
j uv e n a ti n g and life res t oring c h emical aid in c ases

where N ature has failed t o make proper provision
th e refo r ca u se a more gen e ral and t hor o u g h cir
,
culatio n o f the bl ood to t he e x pos e d portions of t he

.
body partic u larly th e f a ce re m ov e crow s feet and

, ,
’
w r inkles giv e the skin a glossy a n d h ea lthfu l a p

'
p e a r a n c e ca u s e a n in c r e as e d gr o wth o f hai r th rou gh

, ,
s u pplying th e hai r f o llicles with p r ope r n u t r i men t

and S p ec ifi c ally to i m p r ov e and b e autify th e c om
pl ex ion .
N o lady o r g e n tl e m a n who is at all fastidio u s

‘
in t h e i r taste and d e si r o u s of m aking th e most or

,
‘
a s m uc h as th e y sho u ld of thei r app e aran c e can ‘
, ,
afford to neglect the study and practice of m as

sag e I t is infi nitely mor e important tha n Hair
.
dr e ssing and Mani c uring however e ssential th e se ,
latt er may b e .
T he C he m ica l Ma s s a g e .
This tr e atm ent is e sp e cially int e nded to re stor e

falling hair avoid the spread and developmen t of
,
“
A lope c ia A reata ( B ald Spots ) and t o s o e nliv en
”
,
and tone up t he scalp and hai r follicl e s as to pro

mote a healthy and l uxur iant growth O nly th e .
pur e st of ingredients are employ e d in c ompounding

t he t wo diff e rent form u las u s e d i n this tr e atm e nt .
The first o r N o 1 appli c atio n i s preced e d by a

, .
,
thorough m assag e and steaming of the s c alp This .
is done with t he la r gest of special hoods ,
and wh e n the por e s are o p e n e d u p and have e xuded

all local i m p u rities the head i s thoro u ghly sham,
pooed and th e hair cl e ansed of all oily or g r easy

substan ce s Then t h e c h e mi c als ar e appli e d and
.
aft e r being well r u bbed i n the hood is

brought into u s e agai n to driv e th e ch em ic al com ,
po u nd int o th e r o ots of the ha i r a n d the pores o f

Th e y are guarant e ed to gi v e 2 500 vibratory mo v e ,

’
m e nts per m i n u te and this i s as g reat a speed as

,
any machine can be worked on the face In all .
o t her respec t s th e y ar e identical to the po w er ma
c hine the same mak e and style of kneading cleans

, ,
ing and massaging bulb and rubber agi t ator is used .
The machine i s s o arranged that three differen t

sp ee ds may be attained the m inimum or t ha t used , ,
in tempering t h e face head and neck to t he mo v e

, ,
men t Th e secondary used i n the cleansing proces s

.
, ,
and th e ma x imum used to knead t h e skin remo v e

, ,
cro w s fee t wrinkles horizontal lines from the bro w

’
, , ,
and to make or give t o the cheeks forehead and ,
neck t ha t plump rosy and beau t iful ap p earance

, .
The skilled masseur or operator w ho graduates

from the R obinson Sys t em of C olleges is enabled to ,
apply t h e treatment in a scien t ific and successful

manner
E l e c t r i c a l M a s s a ge .
This i s the applica t ion of elec t rici t y direc t to

t he patron s fa c e af t er th e current has been passed
’
,
t hrough the opera t or s hands by means of an elec

’
trode fastened to th e w rist w i t h a s t rap I t differs .
from the V ibratory in that by this sys t em yo u

get an a ct ual current of electrici t y to pass t hrough
out the skin o n the face and neck It dra w s the .
circulation to th e S kin stimulates the face n erve ,
sys t em and is in g eneral one of the most e ffec t i v e

, ,
a gencies in bringing about a healthy condition a n d
g o od c ol or t o th e fa ce .
PA R T V I I S K I N D I S E A S E S AN D
-
AN T I S E PT I C S
Q W hat precau t ion would you tak e i n sha v ing

.
a fa ce on w hich t h e re w as any kind of skin disease 9
A P ro v ide for strict antiseptics or an an t iseptic

.
,
condition s o that con t agion w ould be a v oided B e

, .
fore s h a v ing use a h o t w ater to w el ; bath e t he face

and discard the to w el A f t er sha v ing w ould s t eriliz e
.
all instrum e nts used W ould also w as h t he face

.
with an antiseptic W ould also w ash my o w n hands

.
in antis e pti c w ash a solu t ion of F ormalin carbolic

, ,
acid o r something S imilar

, .
Q What effect does close sha v ing have on th e

.
skin "
A A f t er sha v ing close w ith a microscope you
.
,
can s e e exuda t ion of blood thou g h of course it , , ,
i s not v isible t o th e u naided eye The effec t of .
close shaving on the skin is t o render it all the more

liable to skin diseases esp e cially to t h ose w hich
,
are contagious A lso if t he person so s h a v ed has

.
,
w i t hin him the germs of a skin disease close s b a v ,
ing w ill bring it to t he fron t ’
Q What eff ec t does facial massa g e ha v e

.
"
A F acial massage has tw o distinc t effects : F irs t

.
l y th e kneading pro c ess causes th e skin t o exude

,
.
a n d give out ce rtain deleterious mat t er i t has a c

q u ired from th e air which is more or less filled
,
with d u st or which accumulates in t he system Th e

,
.
kn e ading giv e n in facial m assage works this o u t .
S e condly F a c ial m assage b r ings into th e mi nu t e

~
,
capillaries o f t he skin a fresh supply of blood fo r c

—
i n g th e blood in t o e v ery ca p illary t o w h ich t he mas

sage is ap p lied This of course makes for a much
.
.
, ,
healthier facial condi t ion so t h at facial massage is ,
a cleanser as w ell a s a s t imulator .
Q W ha t is eczema
.
"
A E czema is an inflamma t ion of th e skin a o

.
,
companied by pa p ules pimples e t c . and is usually , , ,
attended w i t h a discharge of serum .
Q \Vh a t i s A cne " D escribe i ts appearance

.
,
.
A A cne i s a g eneral term used t o designa t e a

.
skin upon w hic h t h ere is marked pustular i n fla m

m ation Thi s comes from a diseased condi t ion of
.
the sebaceous glands ; it oft en affects t he h a i r fo l

‘
li c l e s A cne is bes t repre s ented by a face w h ich

.
is usually co v ered w i t h pus t ules or pimples I t is .
generally accom p anied w i t h slu g g ish circula t ion .
Q N ame t hree an t isep t ics

. .
A F ormalin C orrosi v e Sublima t e and C arbolic

.
,
A cid .
Q Wha t are t h ey used for and w hat is t heir

.
,
effect "
A They are used for w as h es in connec t ion w i t h

.
sha v ing for t he purpose of pre v en t in g con t agion

,
.
Wh en used t his w ay t hey are g erm killers They

,
-
.
are also used for s t erilizing th e various tools and

implemen t s used by t he barber .
Q If you s h ould use a lance needle tw eezers

. , , ,
etc on a man s face h o w w ould you cleanse t hem

.
,
’
,
"
A They could b e cl eansed by b oili n g in water

’
"
. ,
in t o w hich h a s been in t roduced a lit t le potassium

carbona t e w hich w ill pre v ent rus t ing If there i s
’
.
,
not time for t his they may be dip p ed in a solution

,
of F ormalin or p ure C arbolic A cid af t er w hich t h ey ,
s h ould be rinsed in distilled w a t er .
Q If you s h ould cu t a man h o w would you check

.
‘
bleeding " N ame three astrin g ents .
A W ould c h eck bleedin g by using pressure t h a t

.
,
is t ake a t o w el and w i t h t he fingers press th e out

, , ,
together s o as t o pre v en t th e flo w of blood O r

'
w o u ld us e as t ringen t s The names of t h ree a s tr i n

.
gen t s are Sul p ha t e of Iron A lum and Tannic A cid , , .
O r w ould use a S t yptic pre p ara t ion in liquid or

,
p o wder form .
Q How w ould you cleanse a cu

.
p for sha v ing
"
A B y w ashing it out w i t h boiling w a t er or by

.
,
w ashi n g it out w i t h an ant isep t ic solu t ion such ,
a s F ormaldehyde or the like .
Q
. Ho w w oul d you cleanse a razor "
A A f t er carefully w ipin g i t w ould p lace in a

.
,
sterilizer or w ould boil in hot w a t er or w ould treat ,
it to a four per cent solution of F ormaldehyde or

.
other antise p t ic .
Q How w ould you cleanse brushes combs e t c

.
, ,
.
"
A W ould place t hem in a s t erilizer in w h ich

.
steam or antisep t ic fumes are used A comb can be .
sterilized by dippin g into a four p e r cent F o r m a l de .
hyde solution that is 2 4 t ablespoonfuls of F orm

, ,
1
aldehyde t o a quart of w ater B rushes may be s t er

‘
i l i z e d by w rap p ing them up o v er night in a c loth

s o ak e d in the same solution .
O n t he H a i r a nd S ca l p .
Q . How do e s the hai r deri ve its lif e "
A The hai r d e rives its lif e fro m th e an d

/
. bl o o d
lymphati c s from whi ch it absorbs th e nat u ral food

s u pply .
Q Why does t he hai r fall out "

.
A F alling hair may b e caused by a great many

.
c onditions which may be described as local and

c onstitutional The lo c al c onditions are lack of
.
proper n o u rishment diseas e o f the hair follicle

, ,
atrophy a n d S hrink a ge of the hair bulb and then ,
agai n ther e are vario u s parasitic conditions whi c h

will c aus e falling of the hai r A lopecia is a n oth er .
disease In c onstitutional cases we find syphilis

. .
Q. Why d oe s the hair tur n gray "
A Th e no r m al pigm e nt coloring m atter is a b

.
s o rb e d f r om th e blood The color of the hair de .
pe n ds u pon fo ur fa c ts nam e ly first di ffus e d p i g

, , ,
‘
me n t ; s eco nd g r anula r pigment ; third air condi

, ,
tions and fo u rth th e sup e rficial character of th e

, , ,
hair The c ort ex plays the chief part in de te r m i n

.
ing th e col o r of the hai r Grayn e ss o r C anities may.
b e eithe r a c i r e d or hereditary It may be partial .
or c omple te or i t may b e sudd en or slow C ong e nital

, .
C anities usually occurs in the form of gray t ufts ,
and th e acquired C anities or grayness may be either

premature o r seni le The hair in C ani t ies is us u ally
.
dry stiffer and often coarse r t han normal It i s

,
.
us u ally due to t he absence of pigmen t and th e pres

enc e of air .
Q Why do you sing e the hair and what is th e

.
e ffect "
A Th e hai r sho u ld b e sing e d freq u ently It is th e
.
.
u sual n otion among barb e rs that the hair whe n out

ble e ds I b e lieve that the o p inio n is t hat the si n g e
.
ing of the hair will prevent th i s bl e eding Sing e

, .
ing of the hair in my opinion i s very benefi c ial

, , .
Q Why do e s th e hair split and br e ak at the e nds "

.
A This c onditi on is u s u ally call e d F r a g i l i ti s

.
C rani u m We u sually find that w hen th e ends of

.
th e hair split that the b u lb is also at r ophi e d and

,
som et im e s even broken a n d split .
Q What e ff ec t do e s co ntinuo u s cu tting hav e on

.
th e hair "
A It tends to make th e hair m or e c oarse and w e
.
b e li e ve also t hat it m akes th e hai r stro n g er al tho u gh ,
n o t in e v e r y c as e .
Q What e ff e ct d oe s al co h o l hav e o n th e hair

.
"
A It has a v er y b e n e fi c ial e ffe c t whe n used i n

.
,
the form or compositio n of a tonic .
Q What do you und e rstand by dandruff "

.
A D andr u ff is of two vari et i e s Seborrhoea Si c c a

.
, ,
or A l e o s o and P ityriasis Simple x ; that is greasy and

, ,
dry dand r uff In the g re asy type t he two littl e s e

.
b a c e o us glands which su r ro u nd each hair s e cret e

an abnormal amou n t of sebac e ous or oily matter
This i s deposited on the scalp at the mouths of the
hair follicl e s in th e shap e of da n dr ufi The dry .
da n dr ufi is us u ally c a u sed by th e opposit e condi

tio n of th e sebace ou s glands We believ e that th e
.
primary c ause of dand ru ff is a parasit e o r germ

found in and about the fo llicle and th e seba ce ous
glands .
Q Is dandruff tra n smissible

.
"
A Ye s
. .
Q . Wh y "
A B ecause w e believe t h at it is due primarily
.
to a germ or parasite w hich is easily carried from

one person t o ano t h e r .
Q W hat is the cause of an oily condition of the

.
scalp "
A The s ecretion of t oo much oil by the oil or

.
sebaceous g lands is v ery ap t t o cause a very oily

condi t ion of the h air and scal p .
Q Wh a t causes extreme dryness of t he scalp

.
"
A L ack of p roper nutrition lack of sebaceous

.
,
ma t ter w h ich should be secr eted by the sebaceo u s

glands .
Q W hat is the effect of scalp massage "

.
A The effec t of scalp m assa g e is v ery bene

.
fi c i a l because i t stimulates t he blood and ner v e sup

,
ply of t he scal p This tends to su p ply a greater

.
amount of nu t rition to the hair and glands .
Q W ha t effect does brushing have on t he scalp

"
"
.
A B rushing t he hair once a da y w i t h a brush

.
not t oo s t iff i s v ery beneficial .
B ut e x cessi v e brushing of the scalp with a very

stiff brush is v ery apt t o cause an irritated condi
tion of the scalp and if t he brus h hap p ens to be un
clean i t may be t he means of transmitting a grea t
many dis e as e s .
9O R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF BA R B E R COLL E G E S .
o u r persistent e fi o r ts to mak e oth e rs s e e things as

t hey app e ar to us We e x press r e peatedly our un
.
shakable convictio n that practical sci e nce the kind ,
P rofes sor Huxley explains i s th e only safe and

,
sure method t o get th e re

“
.
”
It is n ot at all ne c essary that eve r y barber should

study chemistry and derm a tology ; that wo u ld do
mor e har m than good ; in fa c t much harm has b e en ,
done to the barber profession be c aus e some m e mb e rs

of the craft forgot that all kinds of kno w ledge m u st
b e made to suit th e party w hom you try to interest
’
and b e nefit P ra c tical sci e n c e th e most valuable

.
,
kind g o w s and de v elops

, r
“
Through p r a c t i c e to
.
science sho u ld be t he motto of the barber

”
.
It is n ot at all necessa r y that ev e r y m e mb er of

the profession should be abl e to give the L atin nam e s
and the history and peculiarities of skin diseas e s
w hi c h might be contracted or observed in t he barb e r
shop Simplicity should guid e the barber in his
.
c onduct to w a r ds his customers “

P u tting on airs .
”
does not a t tra c t customers B etter l é t your customer

.
imagine he is th e smar te r m an ; b u t if the con ,
versation t urns that w ay or you t hink it w ise to

,
lead it in that dire c tion S how your kno w ledge about

,
skin cul t ivation and germ eradication by explai n

ing th a t it is v e ry much like and as simple a s th e ,
culti v ation of th e soil .
A s A gri Horti and F lori c u lture increase th e yield

-
of the soil and mak e the skin of th e e arth mor e

“ ”
beautiful and profi t able s o does t he barber s work

,
’
and his dir e ctions impro v e appearances as well as

health vigo r and c omfort
,
.
R eal kno w ledg e is lik e seed ; it g r o w s and de

v e lo p s in a natu r al w ay someth ing like the tree, .
There a re a numb er of promine nt barbers whose

e stablishm e nts hav e gr ow n and bran c h e d out s o
that thei r proprietors not only pra c tice and dire c t
the cu ltivation of th e ski n of th e fa c e and s calp bu t ,
they give als o baths shampooi n g manicuring and

, ,
m assaging a proper att e ntion .
Th e re ar e m any r easons w hy barb e rs sho u ld as

s u m e th e dire c tion of progr e ssiv e m ethods of ski n
cu ltu re His profession i s th e oldest one in th e
.
fi e ld a n d the only on e w hich practis e s skin sterili

,
z a ti o n ac c or ding to c o r e c t p r i n c i p l e
r s .
To r e c ogni ze th e scientific side of th e barbers ’
work w e mu st put a magnifying glass to o u r m ind s

,
’
e ye ; th en we can ob serve how the soap solution ,
which th e modern barber appli e s to his c u stomers ’
bea r d is massaged i nt o th e skin un de r th e hai r to ,
b e shav e d off A nd th e n by the gradual additio n

.
,
of wate r with gentle fri c tion kneading and ru bbing

, ,
( e ither at pleasure o r acco rdi n g to the rules of some

learned mass eu r ) loosens detaches wraps up in a , ,
soap fil m and finally lifts up and holds firmly in a

creamy h e a v y lather not only the hairs to be cu t
, ,
by t he ra z or but e e r y t hi n g w hi c h ought to be r e
, v
m oved from the human skin .
While doing this job the work may be liken e d to

,
the oyste r fi s h e r s whos e improv e d tools detach the

-
l u scious bivalves gath e r th e m in nets and brings

,
them u p to th e s u rfa ce .
A s th e spid er c at c h e s th e ins ec ts by surrounding

t hem w it h delica t e w ebs s o does t he barber w ork ,
w hile making his la t her on a person s face So ’

.
far t h is has been done only t o catch th e bits of

,
hair t o be sha v en off ; bu t if you do th e same thing

on a diseased por t ion of skin and add t o th e la t her
tha t par t icular medicamen t w hic h ac t s on t he mi
o robes caus i ng the t rouble as sal t does on leeches —
,
w hich loosen t heir g ri p as soon as i t is applied

you w ill be able to gradually catc h and remo v e all
of th e minu t e pes t s w h ich are th e cause of t he v a
rio us skin . tr o ub l e s .
Many an ailment w hich baffled t he skill of em

i n e n t skin specialists has been cured w it h out any
ch emically ac t ing medicine sim p ly by th e me t hod ,
abo v e described A s i t i s inexpensi v e it pays t o

.
,
t ry i t .
If you bear in mind th e likeness of t he human

S kin to the surface of th e eart h you w ill under ,
s t and w hy differen t tools differen t kinds of soaps

“
,
”
may be needed A s t he ax and s a w the plow hoe

.
, , , ,
spade harro w etc are needed as the for e s t the

, , .
, ,
prairie the field g arden e t c is to be cul t i v ated as

, , , .
, ,
the animals as w ell as t he w eeds to be des t roy e d

and removed to make room for useful plants r e quire
different appliances s o i t is w i t h th e human skin
,
.
In cases w here t he abo v e sim p le t rea t ment i s not

su fficient modifications of the describ e d tool m ay
,
“ ”
be needed but w e will reser v e t h e e x planatio n of

,
s u ch special cases for another essay .

P A R T V I I I F O R M U LA S -
The follo w ingormulas are from t he recipes of

F
P rof M c C o n n a ug h a y and w ill be found t o be the
.
,
bes t c h ea p est and mos t easily prepared They em

, .
brace abou t all t ha t are necessary for th e successful

p rac t itioner .
B R O W N H A I R DY E .
Take four pounds of g reen w alnut hulls P ut .
t h em in one and one half g allons sof t w a t er and boil

-
do w n t o t h ree p ints S t rain off t h r ou g h clo t h un t il

.
clear of s edimen t To one qu a r t of t h is add one qu a r t

.
alco h ol and t h ree ounces g lycerine

, .
U s e a s o t her res t orers once a da y until the de

,
sired s h ade is obtained T h e hulls S h ould be g at h

.
ered in A ugus t .
" U I N I N E H A I R T O N I C A N D S E A F OA M .
Th e s t ro n g poin t in fa v or of t his p re p ara t ion as

a s e a foam i s t h a t i t ac t s a t t he same t ime as a
t onic for t he hair .
F ormula :
A lco h ol 1 p in t .
Glycerine ounce .
Tinc t ure of C an t h ar ides ounce .
A qua A mmonia ounce .
Sulp h ate of Quinine 3 0 g rains .
O il of C lo v es one drac hm .
R ock ( or t able ) sal t ounce .
D istilled or rain w a t er one p int

D irec t ions Wh en using as a s e a foa m we t t he
—
,
hair and rub briskly w ith the finger ends u ntil the
foam has disappeared Then take a to we l and rub .
partly dry W hen usi n g as a dandru ff cure s e a foam

.
,
twice a w e ek dampen the hair t w ice a day for two

,
w eeks aft e r w hi c h us e on c e a w eek a s a sea foam

, .
This w ill ke e p the scalp in fine condi t ion .
C RE A M F O R C H A P P E D H A N DS A N D F AC E .
F ormula :
Quince seed 4 ounce 1 .
D is t illed extrac t W it c h Hazel 1 pin t

Glycerine 4 pint 1 .
A lcohol pin t .
P owdered B oracic A cid 1 6 0 grains

C arbolic A ci d 3 2 drops .
P erfume to suit .
i r e c t i o n s fo r M a k i n g
D .
F irst put Quince seed in W itch Hazel and le t

‘
stand t w en t y four hours Then s t rain t hrough c h eese

-
.
cloth and add t he other ingredien t s .
P Y THI A N C RE AM F O R T HE F AC E A ND H A N DS .
F o r m ua l .
in flak e )
Gum T r a g a c i n th ( ounce ,
.
Glycerine four ounces

,
.
D istill e d or rain water gallon ,

.
i r e c t i o n s fo r M a k i n g
D .
P ut Gum T r a g a c i n th in w ater and let stand u ntil

thoroughly dissol v ed and s t rain t hro u gh a c heese,
clo t h Then add t he glycerine and a s u fficien t

.
amount of P ythia n boq ue t to p e rf u m e C olor pink .

w i t h powdered carmine I t should be about th . e
consistency of c ream If too thi c k add more water

. .
There should be a half gallon of w a t e r to t he

four ounces of glycerine when fi n ished .
AM B AY C RE
‘
.
This differs from P ythian C r e am only in t he per

fume Some like the B a y R um better
. .
tio n D i re c s .
U s e the formula of the preceding and t hen add ,
p erfume w i t h genuine O il of B a y .
O L D C RE A M
C .
T h e only difference be tw een this and the t wo pre

ceding cr e ams i s t hat ins t ead of perfume a com
pound of A lcohol a n d Menthol is used .
i r e ct i o ns D .
U s e t he same body as fo r P ythian C ream and ,
th en add A lcohol and Men t h ol as foll o w s : P ut S ix

drachms of Men t h ol crystals i n to a n ounce of A lcohol
i
W h en t he Men t hol is thoroughly dis sol v ed add t his

combina t ion t o one half gallon of th e cream Th e .
presence of t he Men t hol gi v es this preparation a

v ery cooling effect hence its nam e
,
.
B AY RU M .
No 1 . .
B ayO il oun c e
,
.
O il of P i me nto 4 ounc e
,
1 .
A lcohol 3 pin t s
,
.
W ater 3 pints
, .
No 2 . .
Ma g nesium 4 pound ,
1 .
O il of B a y 4 p ound ,
1
.
Mash t hem well toge t her and put t hem in a fil t er

and pour in t wo quar t s of w ater L e t i t fil t er S lo w ly .
and t hen add two quarts A lco h ol .
l M lT A T I O N O F B AY RU M .
No 3 . .
O il of B a y 3 drac h ms
, ,
O il of P imento A drachm ,
1
2 .
W a t er 1 % quar t s
, .
A ce t ic E t her ounces , .
A l c ohol 2 quar t s
, .
Mix and l e t stand three days then let fil t er ,

.
C A M PH O R IC E .
O il of S w ee t A lmonds 2 % ounces , .
Wh i t e Wa x ounces ,
.
~
S p ermaceti ounces , .
G um C amp h or 4 ounce ,
3 .
Mix toge t her melt and pour in t o small sal v e box

, .
M E N TH O L S A L V E ‘
.
Mutton Tallow 1 ounce , .
L ard 1 ounce
, .
Menth ol ( in crys t als ) 3 drac h ms ,

.
M el t toge t her and pour in t o small boxes .
B o t h th e C am p h or Ice and t he Menthol Sal v e ar e
g ood for t ender faces .

H E A P S E A F OA M
A C .
Take tw o ounc e s of the silv e r gloss shampoo two ,
o u nc e s of A l co hol on e ounc e of Glycerine and one

,
pint of water ; shak e well tgg e th e r and perfume to

_
suit you r fancy The shampoo or s e a foam can be

.
co lored a n ice y e llo w by m aking a tea of saffron and

water adding enough after straining it to get th e
,
desired results or color P owdered car m in e c a n

.
als o b e u s e d to c olor a r e d or pink c olor .
B R I L L I A N TI N E .
Take on e ou n ce good Glyc e rin e one qu art e r ounc e ,
of R ose Gera n ium and o ne o u nce wate r ; m ix thor

,
o u ghly This pr e par a tion is a g o od o ne and can

.
,
b e made very c heaply by u sing a less amo u nt o f

th e perfu m e It ne ve r separates and is good a s
.
long as there is a drop of it left .
B LA C K H E A D S .
W hat a r e k no wn as B la c k Heads are ge n e r a ll v
fo u nd i n th e skin o f peopl e w ho are addicted to the

us e of m uch pork Such p e ople ar e also as a rule
.
, ,
r ath er careless ab ou t bathing th e ir fa ces .
A hint to th e wis e will be s ufli c i e n t

‘
.
L et the m not be afraid that a rough towel w ill

s cr atch th e ir fa ce .
la
‘
F o rmu .
A l c ohol 4 oun ce s
,
.
B oraci c A cid 2 d r a c h m s
,
.
D istill e d o r rai n wate r , ounce s .
A pply this thr ee ti me s a day aft e r first having .
thorou g hly washed the fac e and r ubbing d r y wi t h

a c o a rs e tow e l .
I LL U ST R A T E D BO OK OF IN ST R U C T I O N . 99
H A I R B L E A C HI N G .
F irs t clean th e hair w ith th e Silv e r Glos s Shampoo

and w h en dry apply peroxide of hydrogen until damp .
When dry again repeat t he application and con

, ,
ti n ue t o repeat it until n e a r l y as light a s desired .
The hair will co nt in u e to bleach a little li g hte r

for about three days and hence it is necessary to dis
,
con t inue the application when the h air i s a shad e

darker th an desired .
W HIT E N I N G F O R T HE F A C E .
P ut one ounc e of t he O xide of "inc into a plat e

and p our o v er it three ounces of sof t w a t er .
Mash "inc w ith a spoon un t il it is a l l dissolved

-
.
P our t he solution into a pint bo tt le and fill up with

W itch Hazel W hen t he w eather is cold pure soft
.
,
w ater may be used instead of W itch Hazel ; but t he

p reparation w ould sour in w arm w eather A pply .
w i t h a sof t clot h .
B A R B E R S IT C H
’
.
F ear of this disease c auses many men to shav e

t h emsel v es and this class wo u ld other w ise be
,
among th e very best customers .
W hen t h e se men observe how careless the ave r

age barber is w ith his towel s m ugs t ools etc th e y
, , , .
,
become disgu s t e d a r I purchase a sha v ing outfit of

'
th eir o w n and q uit the barber s c h air except whe n’
a hair cut is wanted .
Scabies or itch in its various forms is a dis e as e

, ,
ca u sed by the irri t a t ion produced from t he presenc e

in t he skin of w hat is called the i t ch mite or o v a
of the sam e Th e c ur e involves th e d e str uc ti o n o f
.
t hes e parasit e s .
1 00 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF BA R B E R COLL E G E S .
Ge t a doctor if possible to diagnos e and pres cr ib e

for the cas e If thi s is not convenient try t h e fol
.
lo w ing :
A n ointment made fr o m the flo u r of sulphur a n d
lard or S u lphur and V as e lin e is about th e b e st
, ,
remedy kno w n R ub i n w ell at night and w ash o ff

.
in the morning .
O r tak e C it r on O int m ent 1 o u n c e and mutto n Tal ,
low 1 ounc e ; m el t t ogether and stir till cool This .
i s a good sal v e for all skin dis e ases .
P O MA DE S .
In selecting ma t erial for P omade h a v e a bu tc her

get you some fine leaf lard and some of the finest
sue t w hic h should be t aken from youn g animals
,
.
R ender out separately in a porc e lain ve ssel and

strain off .
D i re c ti o n s .
T ake lard 1 po u nd ,
Tallo w 1 pound,
.
Mix them heat gently and cook fo r one hour over

, ,
a S lo w fire ; remo v e and le t stand a few m inutes t o

settle ; no w pour o ff carefully Wh en almost cold .
add some suitable perfume s a y O il of B e r g a m o n t 4 ,
d rachms O il of L emon 3 drachms O il of C assia 2

, ,
drac h m s O il of N utmeg 7 5 drops

,
.
Mi x t horoughly with th e P omade and pou r i n t o

s mall j ars .
1 02 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M OF BA R B E R COLL E G E S .
T RA DE PR C EI S .
1st C la s s . 2nd C lass

Hair C ut 35 25
Shaving 15 10 .
B e ard Trimming 50 25 .
Shampooing 50 35 .
Mustach e D y e ing 50
S ea F oa m 25 10
Singein g th e H a ir 25 25
R azo r H o ning 50 25
N eck Shaving 10 05
A pplication of Hair Toni c 10 10
In dyeing the hair the c ha r ge is ba s e d o n length
,
and thi c kn e ss of hair and beard and vari e s fr om ,
to fo r a co m pl e te job .
HAI R D RE SS I N G .
F an c y O r dina r y
. .
Hai r D r e ssing Plain

, . 50 25
Hair D ressing F ancy
, 75
C ur l i n g a n d Trimmi n g Top 25
S h ampooi n g Medi u m L eng t h Hair . . 50 25
Shampooing He a v y Hair 75
Sham p ooing Short Hair . 50 25
Trimming and C urling Short Hair all
50
Singei n g Lo n g Hair all o v er 50
Singeing Short Hair . 50 25
B lea c h ing M e dium L eng t h e ach a p ,
plication 50
B leaching L ong Hair e ach applica
,
tio n
D yeing Short Hair all over 200
52
,
D yeing Medium Hair all over , 00

D yeing L o n g Heavy Gr e y Hair all
, , ,
o v er
I LL U ST R A T E D BOOK OF IN ST R U C T I O N . 1 03
M A SS A G E S E RV I C E .
1s t C lass . lass
2nd C .
Shops . Shops .
V ibratory Massag e 50 35
E l e ctrical Massag e 50 35
P l a in Mas sage 35 25
C he m i c a l He a d Massage or Hair
Treatment
E L E C T RO LY S I S .
Pe r sitting
E ach s i t tin g requires abou t t hir t y minu t es less ,
service propor t iona t ely cheaper .

1 04 R OB I N S O N S Y ST E M
BA R B E R COLL E G E S OF .
F I NIS .
In th e rapid co mpilation of this B o o k o f I n s tr uc

t ion it is only reasonable to suppos e that som e
,
more o r less important o v ersight of essential

branch e s has b een committed ; an d in som e f e w
case s o t her depart m ents have n o t b ee n d e alt w ith
in such elaborate detail as might b e wish e d How .
ever t he prosp ec tiv e st u d e nt o r j ou rn e yman will

,
find m uch that will b e of valu e to th e m in perfe c ting

t heir ability .
It is the only w o rk of this c hara c t er iss u ed by any

barber c olleg e wh ere in th e illustrati on s hav e b een
,
taken from life .
Th e B e nso n Mo r ris C ompa n y E ngravers and L ith

-
,
o g r a ph e r s of Seattle took th e sk e tches u pon whi c h

, ,
t hes e illustrations are based from pos e s give n by ,
our Manage r a n d C hi e f Instr u ctor M r E M R o b , . . .
inson in pe r son They w e r e taken in th e mai n

, .
w ork roo m and will give t hose int e rested a clea r

idea of th e system e m ployed i n t r aining and d e v e l
oping ou r students into scientific as w e ll a s s uc ~
c e s s ful pra c tical Tonsorial Ar tists .
Th e Hair D r essing plates ar e likewise f ro m lif e ,
th e w ork being performed by our L ady I n str uc to r

of that and th e Manic u ring D epartment .
E v ery co relative branch of the barbe r trade i n

-
,
cludi n g Hai r C u tting Shavi n g Sin g e ing Shampoo , , ,
ing E lectri c al V ib r at o ry C he m i c al and P lain Head

, , ,
and F ace Massage ; Hai r d re ssi n g E lectrolysis and ,
Mani c uring is thoroughly a nd c omplet e ly taught by

,
th e ve r y b e st of I n structo r s at the diff e re n t bran c hes

o i th e R obinso n Syst e m of B arber C olleges .
T he E n d .
Ha i r C ut t i n g 31
P rop e r M e ho d t of Ho l d i n g Sh ears an d C om b (i1

l u t ti ) s ra on 34
C li p p C ut ( ill u t ti )
er s ra on 36
H l f C w H i C ut ( ill u t ti
a ro n ) a r s ra on 37
"u t ar S h i g l C ut ( ill u t ti )
er n e s ra on 38
( ill u t a t i
“
C ut M d ”
l a a ) o e s r on 41
P f ro i l C ut ( ill u t ti )
es s on a s ra on 42
P m p d u C ut ( ill u t
o a o ti ) r s ra on 43
E g li h F
n t h E d g ( ill u t ti )
s ea er e s ra on 44
Du h
“
cC ut ( ill u t r ti
es s
”
) s a on 45
Bu i s C ut ( ill u t
n es s ti ) s ra on 46
U sef C li p p o ( ill u t ti ) ers s ra on
Li i g U p n n 47
Si g i g ( ill u t ti )
n e n s ra on 49
B d T rim m i g
ea r n 51
E g li h M ilit
n y T im
s ( ill u t ti ) ar r s ra on 53
Ru i P i t T i m ( ill u t ti )
‘
s s an o n r s ra on 54
V D y k T i m ( ill u t ti )
an e r s ra on 55
L d Du dor y T r i m ( ill u t n ti )
rea r s ra on 56
Th D ivi d d
e D ud L w i T i m ( ill u t
e or
“
e e s
”
r s ra
ti ) on 58
Th F ull B
e d T i m ( ill u t ti )
ea r r s ra on 59
H i D
a r i gres s n 6 "
Pl ta Ne 1 H i o D
. i g, a r r es s n 64
Pl ta Ne II H i D
o . i g , a r res s n 65
Pl ta N
e III H i D
Pl ta N
e IV H i D
Pl ta N
e V H i o D
. i g A T m i t d C i ff u
,
a r res s n
“
er na e o re
”
67
N w P t
e t a P i t d P mp d u
en or o n e o a o r 68
y A d t d H dd t Vi w
“ ”
M ar n P e r s on F or ar e ea res s r on e
( ill u t ti )
,
s ra on 69
y A d Si d V i w ( ill u t ti )
“
M ar H dd
n e r s on
”
ea r es s , e e s ra on 70
y A d Sli g h tl y M d i fi d R
“
M ar H dd
n e r s on
”
ea res s , o e , ea r
V i w ( ill u t e ti ) s ra on 71
H i D
a r i g P i
re s s n r ces
H i T
a r t m t d K wl dg
rea en an no e e 74
H i g R m
on n oo 7
H i g S
on n , d P iti ( ill u t ti )
e co n os on s ra on 8
H w t H ld W t
o o B t tl ( ill u t ti )
o a er o e s ra on 28
Pa ge
Massage 77
The Ch m i l M g e ca as sa e 80
V ib t y Mra g or as s a e O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 81
El t i l M
ec g r ca as s a e O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 82
M as sa
g P i e r ces 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 03
Man i ui g
c r n 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 73
O ur G l M g ( ill u t ti
en e ra ana er s ra on )
O ur S t tl H m ( ill u t ti )
ea e o e s ra on O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O
O ur Sp k o H m ( ill u t t i
ane ) o e s ra on 5
P r e fa c e 3
P repa ra t or y v ti Ob s er a on 12
P r ope r M t h d f St p p i g ( ill u t ti
e o o ro n s ra on ) 11
Pr iv t a e D m t ti e on s ra on 12
S i c en ce i thn B b Sh p e ar er o 89
S h vi g
a n 14
S h vi g M v m
a n t o e en s 15
F i t P iti ( ill u t ti )
rs os on s ra on 17
S d P
e con iti ( ill u t ti ) os on s ra on 18
T h i d P iti ( ill u t ti )
r os on s ra on 20
F i t P iti
rs L f t Si d ( ill u t ti )
os on , e e s ra on 23
S d P
e c on iti L f t Si d ( ill u t ti )
os on, e e s ra on 24
D wi g Ski Ti g h t ( ill u t ti )
ra n n s ra on 25
D wi g Ski Ti g h t A
ra n C h i ( ill u t ti
n cr os s n s ra on ) . 26
St pp i g
ro n 10
S h mp
a i g ( ill u t ti )
oo n s ra on 72
S ki n Di d A ti
s ea s es p ti an n s e cs 83
Th A t
e f B
r d T im m i g
o ea r r n 60
Th eH i d S
a lpr an ca 85
Th e Mu t h s ac e 61
T d
ra P i
e r ce s
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O

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I LL U S T R A T E D B O O K

I n m y m any ye ars o f ac t ive personal ex peri e n ce

in th e B a r b e r trad e and i ts c o relative branches a s -

J ourney m a n Workman Mast er B arber C hief I n

s tr uc to r a n d Manager of v arious B arber C oll e ges I ,

have bee n enabled by obser v a t ion and p r ac t ice to

prehensive and detail e d s e t of rules I feel satisﬁed .

tha t if car e fully st u died t hey m u s t be of inestimabl e

value to th e prospecti v e s t uden t a p pr e nti c e or jou r ,

neyman i n a c quiring a rudimentary or pri mary

kno w ledge of the essential points or features o f

with th e paragraph e d e x planations are s o plain and

a co u rse at on e of o u r colle g es can not fail t o ,

m ak e of th e m ost me dio c r e p upil a c o m p e te n t artist , .

U pon entering the colleg e th e st u de n t is ﬁrst

working room a n d is th e re take n in hand by the

and stropping th e razor This instruction is by per .

s onal illus t ration ; the m anner of holding and turn

ing t he razor in the hand by the ﬁngers without

turning the hand ; th e angl e at w hich it should be

below ; starting th e heel of the razor at or near

carrying it at all times at the an g le abo v e s t a t ed ,

and perfec t ly ﬂat at all times .

Wh e n r eversing to take the ba c k stroke turn the ,

ra z o r with edg e up and do not c omm e nce ba c k

stroke u ntil th e r azor is held at th e right angle

Th e se e xe r c is e s ar e had with old razo r s fur n ish e d

of det ec ting wh e n th e proper s m o o t h s t i c k y edg e i s ,

obtai n ed This c a n b e a c qui re d o n ly by pra c ti c al

ill u stration fro m th e i n str u ctor who d r aws th e r a zor

is th u s enabl e d to detect by the s e nsitiv e f ee ling o n

ta i n e d N o amount of verbal inst r u c tion is e ff e ctive

in c arrying to th e novic e s m ind the character of ’

the indescribable feeling above ref e rr e d to ; it ca n

The new tools are not furnish e d th e st u de n t u ntil

Ther e is n othing m yst e rio u s o r intri c at e i n l e a rn

instruction competency is readily acquired Many .

times when trouble is had wi t h ra z ors the operator ,

is a s much to blame as th e razor B arbers are mo r .

tal and ha v e th e ir o ff days at such times they can ,

n o t get satisfa c tory work out of the best tools in

the best of condition .

The B elgian W ater Hon e is used e x cl u siv e ly i n

t hey are nearly all of u niform grade and ﬁneness ,

and th e st u d e nt is not so apt to o v e r h o n e o n the m

much in ﬁnen e ss a n d grit that th e beginner is a l

using the rubber to produce a lib e ral quantity of

The proper method of honing a ra z or is to draw

heel in ad v ance at an angle of forty ﬁ v e degrees

the razor w ill then pass diagonally across the grit of

the teeth w hich compos e the cutting edge to incline

r azor ready for stropping af te r b e ing honed o n a

tically the same microscopic e x amination as ﬁgure N o .

4 w hich sh o ws the conditio n of a r a z or afte r b e i n g

h oned on a Swaty Th e relati v e frequency size a n d

a ngle of the t ee th ar e cl e arly shown a n d speak ,

volum e s for the s u pre m acy of th e Wat e r H o ne as '

against th e Swaty particularly fo r th e b e ginn e r

N ext to correct honing stroppi n g is the most i m ,

portant t r ick of the trade as oft e n after ﬁrst sec u ring

a good edge on the hone it is ruined by careless ,

strop p ing The e dge and ba c k must b e both h e ld

gently though ﬁrmly on t he strop and drawn over