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hardware untuk '%( KEVQIR WITIVXM %WW]WXFYPPQIV [[[EWW]WXFYPPQIV GSYO 
*EWLMSRGEH [[[JEWLMSRGEHRIX  ;MRHE [[[[MRHEGEHGEQGSQ  &ER]EOR]E
TIR]IHME XIORSPSKM '%('%1 KEVQIR MRM QIRYRNYOOER FEL[E OIFYXYLER
TIRKKYREER XIORSPSKM SXSQEWM HER OSQTYXIVMWEWM HM FMHERK TVSHYOWM FYWERE
WYHEL QIRNEHM OIFYXYLER ^EQER .S]GI %H[SE HOO   QIR]EXEOER
TIRKKYREER'%(QIQFIVMOERFIFIVETEOIYRXYRRKERHMERXEVER]EEHEPEL
1. 1IRMRKOEXOEROIGITEXERTVSHYOWM
2. 1IRMRKOEXOEREOYVEWMHERTVIWMWMHEPEQTVSHYOWM
3. 1IRMRKOEXERIVKSRSQMG
4. 1IQYHELOERQERENIQIRlifecycle TVSHYO

4EHE FYOY MRM EOER QIRKKYREOER software '%( pattern design grading HEVM
6MGLTIEGI 6MGLTIEGI QIR]IHMEOER software GEH : IZEPYEXMSR FIWIVXE XYXSVMEP
TIRKKYREERR]E HM WMXYW VIWQMR]E LXXT[[[VMGLTIEGIGSQ (MFERHMRKOER
HIRKERsoftware evaluation version HEVMTIR]IHMEPEMRR]Esoftware Garment Cad
V8 Evaluation PIFMLopen EOWIWHMQEREWIQYETool HETEXEOXMJHERXERTEEHEQEWE
XVMEPYNMGSFEWILMRKKEWERKEXGSGSOYRXYOTVSWIWTIQFIPENEVERHIRKEROEXEPEMR
+EVQIRX Cad V8 Evaluation version HEVM Richpeace MRM QIQMPMOM JEWMPMXEW WITIVXM
software full versionnya dan HETEX HMKYREOER WIGEVE FIFEW SPIL WMW[E HM
WIOSPELYRMZIVWMXEW]ERKQIR]IPERKKVEOERTVSKVEQOIELPMERFYWEREEXEYTYRSPIL
QEW]EVEOEX YQYQ ]ERK MRKMR FIPENEV '%( YRXYO KEVQIR 7IQYE OSQTYXIV  HM
PEFSVEXSVMYQ  OSQTYXIV  HER  WIQYE  OSQTYXIVPETXST  WMW[E  HETEX HM install
WIGEVEFIFEWWILMRKKEHETEXQIRHSVSRKWMW[EFIPENEVQERHMVM9RXYO-RWXEPEWM
Software CAD Richpeace QIQFYXYLOERTIVEPEXERWIFEKEMFIVMOYX


SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA 9

 1
1. /SQTYXIVHIWOXSTTGPETXST HIRKERWTIWMJMOEWMQMRMQEPWIFEKEMFIVMOYX
2. 3W;MRHS[WHERWIXEPELR]E
3. 6%1QMR+&
4. 4VSGIWWSVGSVI-
5. ,EVHMWO+&JVIIQMR+&
6. )\XIVREPmouse LEVYWEHE ERH97&TSVX
7. 1SRMXSVQMRMRGL

Software CAD Richpeace, FMWEHMYRHYLHMLXXT[[[VMGLTIEGIGSQMRHI\
TLTIRWYTTSVXHS[RPSEHJMPIVMGLTIEGIKEVQIRXGEHZIZEPYEXMSR

& 'EVE-RWXEPEWM
%OXMJOER OSQTYXIV HER WMETOER '( 97& I\XIVREP LEVHMWO ]ERK FIVMWM
Software '%( Richpeace Garment cad V8 evaluation ]ERK EOER OMXEMRWXEP HM
OSQTYXIV1EWYOER'(97&external hardiskGEVMJMPIinstaller setup.exeHER
doubel OPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMmouse



Double Klik Setup.exe

10 SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

 1


4VSWIWMRWXEPEWMQIRKMOYXMPERKOELPERKOELWIFEKEMFIVMOYX


4MPMLYes HERWIPERNYXR]E


4MPMLHERXIOERNext HERWIPERNYXR]E


4MPMLHERXIOERNexXTVSWIWEOERWIPIWEMHERHMXERHEMHIRKERXEQTMPR]EHYE
Software HMHIWOXST]EMXY64(+7HER64+17

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA 11

 1






64(+7 EHEPEL Software YRXYO TIQFYEXER TSPE  QIQFYEX  size/ grading

IHMXTIREQFELERXERHENELMXER/ notch TIREQFELERKEVMWNELMXERWIEQHPP
64+17 YRXYOQIQFYEXEXEYQIR]YWYRTSPE]ERKOMXEFYEXHEVM64(+7
WIWYEMHIRKERNYQPELVEWMSEXEYsize ]ERKMRKMRHMWYWYRHERPIFEVOEMR]ERK
XIPELHMXIRXYOER

' 4IRKEXYVER 64(+7
7IFIPYQQIRKKYREOERsoftware 64(+7WIFEMOR]EOMXEQIPEOYOER
TIRKEXYVERFIFIVETELEPTIRXMRK]EMXY
1. 7EXYERYOYVER 



Klik option dan geser ke System setup dan

klik sekali dengan tombol kiri

12 SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

 1



Klik Length Unit



%OERXEQFMPNIRHIPEWITIVXMHMEXEWYRXYOTIRKEXYVERWEXYERYOYVERWIXIPEL
OMXEOPMOsystem setup TEHEstep WIFIPYQR]E




Pilih Length Unit

(klik satu kali)

Precision : untuk ketepatan/

kepresisian satun (angka
dibelakang koma)

Jangan lupa tekan “OK”

SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA 13

 1


2. %OXMJOERRule FEVTIRKKEVMW


 6YPIFEVHMEOXMJOEREKEVTEHE
EVIEOIVNEXEQTMPYOYVEREKEV
 QIQYHELOER
TEVXRIVWEEXFIOIVNE


3. %OXMJOERTool HEWEV]ERKEOEROMXEKYREOEREKEVQIQTIVQYHELOMXE
QIRGEVMToolR]E'EVEQIRKEOXMJOERTool-R]EFMWEHMPMLEXTEHEKEQFEV



Tekan tombol Add setelah

memilih tool yang akan
ditambahkan

Add Point

14 SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

 1



4MPML Tool-Tool HEWEV ]ERK EOER OMXE KYREOER HIRKER GEVE EVELOER
pointer OIFEKMEROMVMPSKSTool HEROPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMQMWEPTMPMLPSKS
Add PointWIPERNYXR]EXIOERXSQFSPAdd ]ERKEHEHMHEPEQNIRHIPEWITIVXM
KEQFEV HMEXEW
'EXEXER9RXYOQIRKKYREOER8SSP8SSPHEWEV]ERKOMXETMPMLHMEXEWLER]E
HIRKEROPMOXSQFSPOERERQSYWITEWXMOERTSMRXIVEHEHMEVIEOIVNE WEEXOPMO
OERERXSQFSP QSYWI 
4. 4IRKEXYVER printer! plotter! cutting plotter! pdf Jile! cut Jile EKEV LEWMP
TIQFYEXERTSPEQEVOIVFMWEHMTVMRXOIQIHMEOIVXEWJMPITHJQEYTYRcut
JMPIYRXYOOIQIWMRTSXSRKSXSQEXMW autocutter
'EVETIRKEXYVEREVELOERpointer OIToolFEVFEKMEREXEWHERTMPMLFile
HERWYFToolFEVR]ETMPMLprinter setupOIQYHMEREOERXEQTMPNIRHIPEprinter
setup WITIVXMKEQFEVHMFE[EL
4EWXMOER FEL[E printer ]ERK HMKYREOER WYHEL XIVLYFYRK HIRKER
OSQTYXIVWIFIPYQR]EMWMOSPSQname HIRKERQIRIOERXERHETERELHER
TMPMLTVMRXIVR]E9RXYOTIRKEXYVER]ERKPEMRWEQEHIRKERTIRKEXYVERprinter
FMEWE


SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA 15

 1



bol dari
Klik kanan tombol darimouse,
mouse,
jendela
akan tampil jendela kecilkecil
seperti
mbar,
pada gambar, ini sangat
ini sangat
memudahkan partner
an paterner





%XYVYRMXWEXYERYOYVER]ERKHMMRKMROER

16 SOFTWARE CAD UNTUK MEMBUAT POLA BUSANA

 BAB II
2
MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

BAB II

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

A. Inteligent Pen 7LSVXGYX“F”)



Tool MRMFMWEHMKYREOERYRXYOFIFIVETEJYRKWMHMERXEVER]E
1. Rectangle/ PIVWIKMIQTEXKIVEOERTSWMWMOERpointer OIXIRKELEXEYHMEVIE
OIVNEOIQYHMEROPMOHIRKERXSQFSPmouse OMVMWEQFMPHMXELERNERKERHMPITEW
NMOE WEPEL YPERKM  7EQFMP HMXELER KIVEOER KIWIV WIHMOMX cursor/ mouse
LMRKKEOIPYEVKEQFEVTIVWIKMHERPITEWXSQFSPOMVM]ERKXEHMHMXELERFMPE
FIVLEWMPQEOEEOEROIPYEVKEQFEVWITIVXMHMFE[EL


MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS 17

 2



 1IQFYEX KEVMW PYVYW WYHYX MWXMQI[E q q q q q q q
q GEVER]EHIRKERQIRKEVELOERTSWMWMpointer OI EVIEOIVNEHER OPMO
XSQFSPOERERLMRKKEKEQFEVpointer FIVYFELHEVMPIRKOYRKQIRNEHMPSKS
LYVYJ8HERKIWIVpointer WIWYEMEVEYLWYHYXMWXMQI[E]ERKOMXEMRKMROER
WIPERNYXR]E OPMOHIRKER XSQFSP mouse ]ERKOMVM HER OIPYEVwindow OIGMP
WITIVXMHMFE[ELHERQEWYOOERRMPEMTERNERK]ERKHMMRKMROER


7IHERKOERFMPEQIRKMRKMROERKEVMWPYVYW]ERKFIVWYHYXFIFEWHIRKERGEVE
]ERK WEQE VYFEL PSKS pointer mouse QIRNEHM PIRKOYRK QEOE  OMXE FIFEW
QIRKKIWIVmouse OIWIQYEEVEL

3. 1IQFYEX KEVMW PIRKOYRK HIRKER  EXEY PIFML XMXMO FERXY NERKER PYTE
QIVYFELPSKSpointer mouse QIRNEHMPIRKOYRK ]EMXYOMXEQIQFYEXKEVMW
PIRKOYRKFIFEWHIRKERGEVEEVELOERpointer OIEVIEOIVNEHEROPMOHIRKER
XSQFSPOMVM WIOEPMHER KIWIVpointer YRXYO QIRIRXYOERXMXMO OIHYE OIXMKE
HER WIXIVYWR]EHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMNYKE&MPEMRKMRQIRKEOLMVMXMRKKEPOPMO
XSQFSPOERER

4. 1IVYFELKEVMWPYVYWQIRNEHMPIRKOYRK]EMXYHIRKERGEVEEVELOERpointer
OI KEVMW PYVYW ]ERK EOER HMVYFEL FIRXYOR]E KEVMW EOER FIVYFEL [EVRE
QIRNEHMQIVEL OPMOXSQFSPOERERNERKERTMPMLpoint ]ERKFIV[EVRELMNEY 
/IQYHMEREVELOERpointer OI KEVMW]ERK XEHMHER OPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOMVM
WIOEPMHERWIPERNYXR]EKIWIVpointR]EWITIVXMTIXYRNYOHMFE[EL

18 MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

 2





.MOE FIRXYO PIRKOYRK ]ERK HMMKMROER XIPEL WIWYEM QEOE OPMO WIOEPM PEKM
YRXYO QIQTSWMWMOER PIXEO point ]ERK FEVY HIRKER XSQFSP OMVM WIPERNYXR]E
FSPIL QIQMPML point ]ERK PEMRNMOEMRKMRQIQMRHELOERTSWMWMTSMRX]ERKPEMR
NMOE HMVEWEOER FIRXYO FIPYQ WIWYEM QEWML HIRKER GEVE WIFIPYQ R]E .MOE
WYHEL WIWYEM QEOE EOLMVM HIRKER QIRIOER XSQFSP OMVM WIOEPM PEKM FYOER
XSQFSPOERER 

Catatan: Untuk merubah garis lurus menjadi lengkung/memindahkan
posisi poin, bisa juga dengan menggunakan Tool “modify”.

B. Rectangle shortcut “S”)



(MKYREOERYRXYOQIQFYEXTIVWIKMIQTEXNYKEGEVEQIRKKYREOERR]E/PMO
PSKSR]E EXEY XIOER “S” HEVM keyboard PSKS TEHE pointer mouse EOER FIVYFEL
QIRNEHMTIVWIKMIQTEXWIPERNYXR]EEVELOERpointer OIEVIEOIVNEHEROPMOHIRKER
XSQFSPOMVMWEQFMPHMXELERNERKERHMPITEWXSQFSPOMVM HERKIWIVWIHMOMXHERPITEW
XSQFSPOMVM]ERKXEHMHMXELER/IQYHMERMWMOSPSQ]ERKOIPYEVHIRKERRMPEMTERNERK
HERPIFEV]ERKOMXEMRKMROERWITIVXMKEQFEVHMFE[EL

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS 19

 2





C. Add point Shortcut “P”)
&IVJYRKWMYRXYOQIREQFELOERTSMRTEHEKEVMWEXEYFMHERKPEMRTIREQFELER
TSMRFMWEPIFMLHEVMWEXY'EVEQIRKKYREOERFMWE HIRKERshortcut “p” dan PSKS
pointer EOERFIVYFELQIRNEHMHYEKEVMWOIGMPHERXMXMO



7IPERNYXR]EEVELOERpointer OIEVELKEVMWHEROPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMQEOE
EOEROIPYEVwindow OIGMPYRXYOTSWMWMpoint ]ERKEOERHMXEQFELOER1EWYOOER
RMPEMTEHEOSPSQLength, HERTIVLEXMOERXMXMOpoint QIVEL]ERKQIRERHEOER
TSWMWMXMXMO 230

20 MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

 2



Bila akan merubah titik NOL/

titik acuannya, tinggal centang
kotak (ref to another poin).
Jangan lupa tekan OK.




D. Eraser 7LSVGYX“E”)
Tool MRMFIVJYRKWMYRXYOQIRKLETYWKEVMWpoint HPPFMWEHIRKERWEXYWEXY
EXEYFIVWEQEER'EVER]EHIRKERQIRKEVELOERpointer mouse OIFEKMER]ERK
EOERHMLETYWHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMEXEYHMFPSOOIWIPYVYLERYRXYOQIRKLETYW
FIFIVETEFEKMERWIGEVEFIVWEQEER

E. 4EVEPIP0MRI7LSVXGYX“Q”)
Paralel line HMKYREOERYRXYOQIQFYEXQIREQFELOERKEVMWTEVEPIPWINENEV
HIRKER KEVMW ]ERK ERHE 'EVER]E EOXMJOER Tool dengan menekan “Q” dari
keyboard HER PSKS pointer EOER FIVYFEL QIRNEHM KEVMW TEVEPIP /IQYHMER
EVELOERpointer OI KEVMW]ERKEOEROMXEXEQFELOERKEVMWTEVEPIPR]EWEQTEM
KEVMW FIV[EVRE QIVEL  WIPERNYXR]E OPMO HIRKER XSQFSP OMVM OIQYHMER KIWIV
OIEVEL]ERKHMMRKMROEROIQYHMEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMWIOEPMPEKMHEREOERQYRGYP
NIRHIPEOSXEO]ERKLEVYWHMMWMTEHEOSPSQWITIVXMTIXYRNYOHMFE[EL


MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS 21

 2



PWMOSPSQR]EWIFEKEMFIVMOYX
/SPSQTIVXEQEEHEPELNEVEOKEVMWTIVXEQEKEVMWEGYEROIKEVMWOIHYE
/SPSQOIHYEEHEPELNYQPELKEVMW]ERKEOERHMXEQFELOER
/SPSQOIXMKEEHEPELNEVEOERXEVEKEVMWOIHYEHIRKERKEVMWOIXMKEOIIQTEXHER
WIXIVYWR]E

F. *SVJI\7LSVGYX“W”)
(MKYREOER YRXYO QIQIGEL HIWEMR QIRNEHM FIFIVETE FIRXYO TSPE 7IXIPEL
OMXEWIPIWEMQIQFYEXHIWEMRTSPEHEVMrectangleTIVWIKMIQTEXQEOEOMXEFMWE
QIQIGELR]EQIRNEHMFIFIVETEFEKMERWITIVXMGSRXSLTEHEKEQFEVFIVMOYX


4EHEKEQFEVHMEXEWWYHELXIVHETEXHIWEMRTSPEYRXYOFEKMERHITERHER
FIPEOERKHEROMXEEOERQIQIGELR]EQIRNEHMHYEFEKMERHIRKERGEVEXIOER
shortcut “W”HEVMkeyboard HEREVELOERpointer OIKEVMW]ERKQIVYTEOERFEKMER
QEWMRKQEWMRKHITEREXEYFIPEOERK .ERKERPYTEQIQMPMLKEVMWHIRKERXSQFSP
OMVMHEVMmouse HERFIVYVYXERWIEVELNEVYQNEQ]ERKHMOMPMOEOERFIVYFEL[EVRE
QIVEL &MPEFIVLEWMPQEOETEHEWEEXOPMOTEHEKEVMWXIVEOLMVQEOETSPETEHE
EVIEOIVNEEOERFIVYFEL[EVREWIPERNYXR]EXEOERXSQFSPOERER

Catatan : Bila berhasil maka akan ditandai dengan keluarnya logo/
gambar pola pada bagian kiri/atas.

9RXYOTIGELTSPEOSQTSRIRPEMRR]EQEOEOMXELEVYWQIVIJVIWLTool
XIVPIFMLHELYPYHIRKERQIRIOERXSQFSPQSHMJ]EXEYshortcut “A” HEROIQYHMER

22 MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

 2



EOXMJOEROIQFEPMTool forfex EXEYshortcut “W”.,HERHIRKERGEVE]ERKWEQENMOE

EOERTIGELTSPEPIFMLHEVM'EVEPEMR]ERKFMWEHMGSFEYRXYOTIGELTSPE]EMXY
HIRKERXIOERHERXELERXSQFSPshift TEHEkeyboard WIVXEEVELOERpointer TEHE
FEKMER EVIE]ERKEOERHMNEHMOERTSPEHEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMEOERFIVYFEL[EVRE
TEHEEVIE]ERKOMXETMPML 9RXYOTSPE]ERKQIVYTEOERKEFYRKERPIFMLHEVMWEXY
FEKMERQEOEFMWEHMPERNYXOERHIRKEROPMOHIRKERXSQFSPmouse OMVMTEHEEVIE
]ERKPEMR.ERKERPYTEOPMOXSQFSPOERERmouse NMOEEVIE]ERKHMMRKMROERXIPEL
FIVYFEL[EVRE]ERKQIRERHEOERWEXYFEKMERTSPE



G. 7RMTI'YVZI7LSVGYX“Z”)
Tool MRMHMKYREOERYRXYOQIQSXSRKKEVMWPIRKOYRKPYVYWQIRNEHMHYEFEKMER
HIRKERYOYVERXIVXIRXYWIWYEMOIMRKMRER'EVEQIRKKYREOERR]EEOXMJOERXIVPIFML
HELYPY ToolR]EOIQYHMEREVELOER pointer OI KEVMW ]ERK EOEROMXEFEKM QIRNEHM
HYE FEKMERHER OPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMmouse [EVREKEVMWFIVYFEL OIQYHMER
KIVEOER KIWIV mouse point WMPERK EOER FIVKIWIV  HER OPMO XSQFSP mouse OMVM
WIOEPM EOER OIPYEV NIRHIPE OIGMP ]ERK LEVYW HMMWM WIWYEM NEVEO HEVM XMXMO RSP ]ERK
HMMRKMROER

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS 23

 2






H. 6IPIZERX -VVIPIZERX
Tool MRMQIQMPMOMJYRKWMYRXYOQIRKKEFYRKOEREXEYQIQMWELOER
HYE XMXMO point TIVXIQYER HEVM HYE KEVMW WILMRKKE WEEX EOER
HMKIVEOOER HMKIWIV HIRKER Tool modify EOER FIVWEQE  WEQE
XIVTMWELFIVKIVEOFIVKIWIV
'EVER]EEOXMJOERTool Relevant/ Irrelevant XIOERXSQFSPWLMJX
YRXYOQIQMPMLR]E TMPMLKEVMWTIVXEQHIVRKEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMmouse
HER OPMO KEVMW OIHYE WIPERNYXR]E EOXMJOER Tool QSHMJ] YRXYO
QIRKKIWIVQIQMRHELOERXMXMOTSMRHEVMOIHYEKEVMWXIVWIFYX


24 MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

 2



I. 'SQTEWW7LSVGYX“C”)
Tool MRM WERKEX QIQFERXY YRXYO QIQFYEX KEVMW PYVYW HIRKER TERNERK
XIVXIRXY]ERKWYHELTEWXMEXEYHMXIRXYOERWIFIPYQR]E Tool MRMFMWEHMKYREOER
YRXYOQIQFYEXKEVMWTYRHEOTERNERKTYRHEOWLSYPHIVHEVMPMRKOEVPILIVOI
KEVMWXYVYRFELYshoulder slope


'EVER]EEOXMJOERTool compassWIPERNYXR]EEVELOERpointer OIpoint PIFEV

PILIV ]ERK HMPMRKOEVM QIVEL  WEQTEM point FIV[EVRE QIVEL HER OPMO HIRKER
XSQFSPOMVMWIOEPMWENEWIPERNYXR]EEVELOERpointer OIKEVMWTEVEPIPKEVMWXYVYR
FELYshoulder sloope OIPYEV[EVREQIVELTEHEKEVMWHEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMHER
EOEROIPYEVNIRHIPEOIGMP]ERKFIVMWMOSPSQ]ERKLEVYWHMMWMRMPEMTERNERKKEVMW
]ERKHMMRKMROERWIWYEMHEXEHERWIPERNYXR]EXIOER3/

J. Compare Length Shortcut “R”)
Tool MRMFIVJYRKWMWIFEKEMEPEXYOYVWIOEPMKYWTIQFERHMRKYOYVERERXEVEHYE
EXEY PIFML KEVMW 'EVE QIRKKYREOERR]E EOXMJOER ToolR]E WIPERNYXR]E EVELOER
pointer OIKEVMW]ERKEOERHMYOYVTERNERKR]EKEVMWEOERFIVYFEL[EVREQIVELNMOE
pointer FIVEHEHM EXEWKEVMWHER OPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMmouse HER KEVMW EOER
FIVYFELQIRNEHM[EVRELMNEYHEREOEROIPYEVXEFIPYOYVERWITIVXFIVMOYX

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS 25

 2




4IRKYOYVER]ERKHMHETEXEHEQEGEQ]EMXY
a. Length : TERNERKKEVMWEXEYTIVMQIXIV0IRKOYRKKEVMWPYVYW]ERKFIV[EVRELMNEY
b. < TERNERKKEVMWHEVMpoint HERHMXEVMOWINENEVWYQFY<
c. = TERNERKKEVMWHEVMpoint HERHMXEVMOWINENEVWYQFY=

K. %HH7IEQ
Tool MRMHMTEOEMYRXYOQIREQFELOERKEVMWNELMXERFMEWER]EHMTEOEMKEVMW
TYXYWTYXYW 'EVER]EQIRKKYREOERWERKEXQYHEL]EMXYHIRKER
GEVEQIRKEVELOERpointer OIKEVMWEXEYFIFIVETEKEVMWHMFPSOKEVMW ]ERKEOER
HMFIVOERKEVMWNELMXER]ERKWEQERMPEMR]E 


Catatan : Pemberian garis jahitan/ Add Seam, dilakukan setelah proses

pecah pola

26 MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

 2
L. 2SXGL
(MKYREOER YRXYO QIREQFELOER XERHE TSWMWM NELMXER WEQFYRKER  'EVE
QIRKKYREOERR]E HIRKER QIRKEVELOER pointer OI KEVMW ]ERK EOER HMFIVMOER
XERHENELMXERnotch HEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMmouse HEREOEROIPYEVNIRHIPEWITIVXM
KEQFEVHMFE[EL


PWMOSPSQ(MWXERGIHIRKERRMPEMNEVEOHEVMXMXMOEGYERWIWYEMOIMRKMRER

'EXEXER8ERHENELMXERRSXGLEHEFIFIVETEX]TI]ERKFMWEHMKYREOER]EMXY
-7PMX : 9 8 

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS 27

 2
Catatan : Untuk merubah type notch, tekan button “Notch Attr” dan akan tampak
jendela Notch Attribute, tekan tanda panah yang ada di kolom type dan pilih
type yang diiginkan. Selanjutnya kita isi kolom lainnya yaitu kedalaman/ depth
dari notch dan widh/ lebar notch jika ada serta sudut/ angle.Jangan lupa pilih
cut jika tanda jahitan/ notch akan di potong dan draw jika hanya di gambar/
ditulis/ tidak dipotong.

M. Grain Line%VEL7IVEX
Tool MRMHMTEOEMYRXYOQIVYFELEVELWIVEX]ERKWYHELEHEGEVER]EHIRKER
QIRKEOXMJOERTool XIVWIFYXHEREVELOERpointer OIWEPELWEXYpoint/ XMXMOXMXMO
TIVXEQE HEROPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOERERWIOEPMHERKIWIVpointer OIpointXMXMO
XMXMOOIHYE PEMRR]EHEROPMOHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMPEKMWIOEPM+EVMWgrain line ]ERK
WYHELEHEEOERFIVYFELWIWYEMHIRKER]ERKHMMRKMROER




N. 4EXXIVR6SXEXI
Tool MRM HMKYREOERYRXYOQIQYXEVTSPE ]ERK WYHELHMFYEX'EVER]E]EMXY
HIRKER QIRKEOXMJOER ToolR]E XIVPIFML HELYPY HER pointer EOER FIVYFEL
PSKSR]E WIPERNYXR]E FPSO TSPE ]ERK EOER HM VSXEXI HMTYXEV WEQTEM FIVYFEL
[EVRER]EHERWIPERNYXR]EOPMOXSQFSPOERERmouse WIOEPMTSPEEOERFIVTYXEV
OPMOWIOEPMPEKMXSQFSPOERERmouse QEOEEOERFIVTYXEVPEKMHERWIXIVYWR]E
NMOEMRKMRHMTYXEVPEKM

28 MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

 2






O. 4EXXIVR*PMT
Pattern lip EXEY1MVVSVEHEPELTool ]ERK HMKYREOERYRXYOQIRGIVQMROER
TSPEXIVLEHETWYQFY<LSVM^SRXEP EXEY=ZIVXMGEP WIWYEM]ERKHMFYXYLOER
'EVER]EEOXMJOERToolR]EHERTIVLEXMOERPSKSpointerR]EHERXIOERWLMJXQEOE
PSKSpointer EOERFIVYFELWIWYEMEVELWYQFY]ERKEOERHMTMPML%VELOERpointer
OIEVIETSPE]ERKEOERHMJPMTHEROPMOXSQFSPOMVMmouse WIOEPMHERTSPEEOER
FIVYFEL TSWMWMR]E


MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS 29

 2



P. ,SVM^SRXEP:IVXMGEP%HNYWX
Tool ]ERK WEXY WERKEX FIVKYRE NMOE OMXE EOER QIQTIVFEMOM TSPE ]ERK
FIVEWEPHEVMHMKMXM^IV]EMXYKEVMWPYVYW]ERKXMHEOFEMOEXEYEKEOQMVMRK8IXETM
Tool MRMNEVERKHMTEOEMNMOETIQFYEXERTSPEPERKWYRKHEVMSoftware CAD'EVE
QIRKKYREOERToolR]E]EMXYEOXMJOERToolR]EHERTIVLEXMOERPSKSpointerR]E
HERXIOERWLMJXHEVMOI]FSEVHYRXYOQIVYFELPSKSR]EEVELWYQFY<EXEY= 
%VELOER pointer OI point XMXMO TIVXEQE ]ERK KEVMWR]E XMHEO PYVYW KEVMW
XIVHMVMHYEXMXMOpoint HEROPMOWIOEPMHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMmouse HEREVELOER
PEKM OI XMXMO OIHYE HER OPMO WIOEPM HIRKER XSQFSP OMVM NYKE 7IPERNYXR]E EOER
XEQFMPNIRHIPETIRKEXYVERHorz-Vert Adjust WITIVXM]ERKXEQTEOTEHEKEQFEV
HMFE[EL
4EHENIRHIPETIRKEXYVERXIVHETEXTMPMLERYRXYOTIRKEXYVERXMXMO]EMXY
1. Move end pointXMXMONMOEWEPELWEXYXMXMOpoint ]ERKEOERHMEXYV
2. Move 2 end point, NMOEOIHYEXMXMOEOERHMEXYVFIVWEQEWEQE
4IVLEXMOERXSQFSPChange MoveXIOERXSQFSPMRMNMOEMRKMRQIVYFELpoint
XMXMO]ERKEOEROMXEVYFELTSWMWMR]E



Point 2

Point ini bergeser ke

arah sumbuh X sesuai
posisi point 2

30 MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

 2



Q. 4EXXIVR7]QQIXV]
Tool ]ERKWEXYMRMWERKEXQIQFERXYTEXIVRIVWEEXQIQFYEXTSPE]ERKXIVHMVM
HEVMHYEFEKMER]ERKWEQEWILMRKKETIQFYEXERTSPEFMWEHMFYEX~FEKMERWENE
7ITIVXMFEKMERFEHERFSH]HITEREXEYFIPEOERK]ERKXIVHMVMHEVMFEKMEROMVMHER
OERER
9RXYO TSPE ]ERK XIVHMVM HEVM KEFYRKER OMVM HER OERER QEOE TEXIVRIV LER]E
QIQFYEX FEKMER OMVM EXEY OERER WENE (ER YRXYO FEKMER WIFIPELR]E XMRKKEP HM
KEFYRKOERHIRKERQYHELQIRNEHMWEXYFEKMERTSPE]ERKPIRKOETQIRNEHMWEXY
TSPE
'EVE QIRKKYREOER 8SSP MRM ]EMXY XIVPIFML HELYPY EOXMJOER 8SSPR]E HER
TIVLEXMOERPSKSTEHETSMRXIVHERXIOER7,-*8YRXYOQIVYFELPSKSTEHETSMRXIV
7IPERNYXR]EEVELOERTSMRXIVOIKEVMW]ERKEOERHMNEHMOERKEVMWWYQFYEXEYKEVMW
XIRKELHEROPMOWIOEPMHIRKERXSQFSPOMVMQSYWITEHEKEVMWXIVWIFYX4SPEEOER
SXSQEXMWFIVYFELWISPELSPELHYETSPE]ERKHMKEFYRKOERQIRNEHMWEXY
TSPE



Catatan :
Bila pola yang dihasilkan seperti diatas, saat diedit/ dirubah salah satu
bagian saja, maka bagian sebelahnya akan otomatis berubah juga.
Contoh pola yang membutuhkan Tool ini adalah pola badan depan atau
belakang, kerah, dll

MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS 31

 2

Catatan :
Bila pola yang dihasilkan seperti contoh diatas, jika salah satu bagian di
edit/ dirubah, maka bagian yang satunya akan tetap pada kondisi awal
tanpa ada perubahan. Contoh pola yang membutuhkan Tool ini adalah
pola lengan.

32 MENGENAL TOOL DASAR RP-DGS

 BAB III
3
BAB
TOOL III
GRADING

TOOL GRADING

Grading EHEPELTVSWIWTIQFYEXERTSPEYRXYOYOYVERsize WIPEMRYOYVER size

HEWEVbasicMRMPEL]ERKQIRNEHMWEPELWEXYOIPIFMLERNMOETEXIVRIV QIRKKYREOER
7SJX[EVI'%(HEPEQTIQFYEXERTSPE(MERXEVEOIPIFMLERTIQFYEXERgrading HM
Software '%(EHEPELYOYVER]ERKPIFMLXITEXHERGITEXTVSWIW TIRKIVNEERR]E
&IVMOYXMRMOMXEFELEWTool Tool HEWEV]ERKHMKYREOERYRXYOTVSWIWgrading
HEVMSoftwarI64(+7

A. Edit size and measurement 7LSVXGYX“Ctrl+E”)
7IXIPELFIVLEWMPQIQFYEXTSPEHEWEVTVSWIWWIPERNYXR]EQIQFYEXTSPE
HIRKERYOYVERWM^IPEMRR]ETVSWIWMRMHMWIFYXGrading
4IVXEQEXEQEOMXEQIRKMWMMRJSVQEWMREQEYOYVERWM^IHERTIRNIPEWERER
YOYVERR]EWITIVXMTEHEKEQFEVHMFE[EL


Arahkan pointer ke Toolbar Size

dan klik dengan tombol kiri
mouse dan pilih Edit Size and
Measurement dan klik sekali
lagi dengan tombol kiri mouse.

TOOL GRADING 33
 3



7IPERNYXR]EMWMOSPSQTEHENIRHIPE]ERKXEQTMPWIXIPELOMXEQIQMPMLEdit Size
and Measurement, WITIVXMKEQFEVHMFE[ELMRM


Size basic/ dasar Klik bagian ini dengan

tombol kiri dan isi
dengan ukuran yang lebih
tinggi dari size dasar

Klik bagian ini dengan tombol

kiri dan isi dengan ukuran yang
lebih rendah dari size dasar

Klik dengan tombol kiri Tekan Save untuk

mouse dan isi kolom ini menyimpan data ukuran
dengan nama ukuran, baru, dan Open jika
misalkan lebar badan informasi data ukuran
sudah ada atau pernah
dibuat sebelumnya

7IXIPELHMMWMWIQYEOSPSQHMEXEWNERKERPYTEHMWMQTERHIRKERXSQFSPSave
HERXIOERXSQFSP3/NMOEXIPELFIVLEWMPWIPIWEM

34 TOOL GRADING
 3
B. +VEHI8EFPI
+VEHI XEFPI EHEPEL NIRHIPE XEFIP YRXYO QIQEWYOOER RMPEM WIPMWML ERXEVE
WM^I YOYVER ]ERK EHE Grading  4VSWIW MRM WERKEX QIQFYXYLOER ketelitian
HEPEQQIQFEGEsize spec YOYVER]ERKEHEOEVIREFMPEXIVNEHMOIWEPELERQEOE
YOYVERTSPEYRXYOsize ]ERKPEMREOERFIVQEWEPEL


Arahkan pointer ke
toolbar "Grade Table",
kemudian akan tampil
jendela Grade table yang
harus diisi seperti gambar
disebelah.

Arahkan pointer ke titik

grading/ Grade point
(Poin yang persegi empat)


Setelah menentukan poin grading,
4IRKMWMER+VEHI8EFPI8EFIPGrading  selanjutnya isi tabel dengan selisih

nilainya, misalkan untuk nilai panjang
Blouse.

Dari data diperoleh bahwa selisih antara

size S dan M adalah 2cm, selisih antara
sizeM dan L adalah 3cm, dan selisih
antarasize L dan XL adalah 7cm. Nilai
tersebut dimasukkan ke tabel seperti
contoh di sebelah (abaikan +/-).

Jangan lupa untuk memastikan

pengisian selisih nilai ukuran di kolom X
atau V dan disesuaikan dengan gambar/
arah serat.

Pada contoh kita masukkan di kolom

V. Bila sudah dimasukkan nilai grading
jangan lupa menekan tombol " V Non
Equal Grading"

TOOL GRADING 35
 3


4IRNIPEWERXEFIPgrading

a. Equal X: Jika nilai grading sama selisihnya

untuk nilai X
b. Equal V: Jika nilai grading sama untuk arah
sumbu V
c. X equal V: Nilai X dan V sama
keseluruhannya
d. X non equal grading: Nilainya tidak sama (X)
e. V non equal grading: Nilainya tidak sama
Pilih absolut untuk Y
: nilai selisih f. X V no equal grading: Nilai untuk X dan V tdk
Tekan bagian ini berdasarkan nilai sama
untuk merubah selisih aktual g. X equal to 0: merubah nilai X menjadi 0
warna garis pola
h. Vequal to 0: merubah nilai V menjadi 0
i. Copy grading: untuk copy nilai grading baik
X /V
j. Paste grading: untuk paste nilai yang tadi
sdh di copy

Bila telah selesai jangan lupa SAVE agar tersimpan, dan bisa di buka kembali
lain waktu dengan cara OPEN dari Toolbar “File”.

36 TOOL GRADING
 BAB
BAB IVIV
4
PEMBUATAN POLA
PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

ROK

% 4SPE6SO&EKMER(ITER
 7METOERYOYVERYRXYOTSPEVSO
7->) 7 1 0 <0
0MRKOEVTMRKKERK    
8MRKKMTERKKYP    
0MRKOEVTERKKYP    
8MRKKMOYTREX    
4ERNERKVSO    



PEMBUATAN POLA ROK 37

 4


/IXIVERKER4SPE6SO&EKMER (ITER
%& TERNERKVSO
&' }PMRKOEVTERKKYPGQ
%) GQ
)* }PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX 
*+ 8MRKKMTERKKYP
', GQ
)P GQ
P. GQ

/IXIVERKER4SPE6SO&EKMER &IPEOERK
01 TERNERKVSO
12 }PMRKOEVTERKKYPGQ
04 GQ
45 }PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX 
56 8MRKKMTERKKYP
27 GQ
48 GQ
89 GQ

/IXIVERKER4SPE&ER4MRKKERK
<: PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQXIQTEXOERGMRKOEMX
:> PIFEVFERTMRKKERK


38 PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

 4
 &YOETVSKVEQ6MGLTIEGI'%(%OXMJOERTool VIGXERKPI  FYEX OSXEO
HIRKERYOYVERTERNERKVSOHER}PMRKOEVTERKKYPGQ





 %OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR FYEXKEVMWTMRKKERKHIRKERGEVEHEVM

81TMRKKERKXYVYRGQHEROIWEQTMRK}PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQ
OYTREX 


PEMBUATAN POLA ROK 39

 4
 &YEXKEVMWFE[ELVSOEVELOERpointer TEHEpoint EGYERWMWMFE[ELVSOOPMOenter
HERMWMXEFIPHIRKERRSQMREPWIWYEMEVELTIVKIWIVERXMXMOWEQFYRKKEVMW]ERK
XIVNEHMHIRKERXMXMOXIRKELQYOEFE[ELVSO




 &YEX KEVMW TERKKYP QYPEM HEVM XMXMO WMWM TMRKKERK OI EVEL KEVMW TERKKYP
HIRKERYOYVERXMRKKMTERKKYP GQ LYFYRKOER HIRKERXMXMOWMWMFE[EL
VSO


40 PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

 4
 4IVFEMOMFIRXYOKEVMWTEHETMRKKERKTERKKYPFE[ELVSOEKEVHMTIVSPIL
KEVMWPIRKOYRK]ERKPY[IW



 %OXMJOERTool JSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE


PEMBUATAN POLA ROK 41

 4
 %OXMJOERTool :HEVX FYEXOYTREXHIRKERYOYVERNEVEO OYTREXHEVM
TMRKKERKGQPIFEVOYTREXGQTERNERKGQ





 %OXMJOERTool pattern symmetry EVELOERpointer HEVMXMXMOE[EP

QMVSVWEQTEMXMXMOEOLMVWEQFMPXELER WLMJX


42 PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

 4



 /PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPEL OERERJMXYV QYRGYP
XEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQEFELER



& 4SPE6SO&IPEOERK
 0EOYOERPERKOEL]ERKWEQEYRXYOTSPEVSOFIPEOERKEOXMJOERTool VIGXERKPI
FYEXOSXEOHIRKERYOYVERTERNERKVSOHER}PMRKOEVTERKKYP– GQ


PEMBUATAN POLA ROK 43

 4



 %OXMJOER Tool MRXIPPMKIRX TIR FYEX KEVMW TMRKKERK HIRKER GEVE HEVM 81
TMRKKERKXYVYR  GQ HER OIWEQTMRK } PMRKOEVTMRKKERK   GQ   GQ
OYTREX 




 &YEXKEVMWFE[ELVSOEVELOERpointer TEHEpoint EGYERWMWMFE[ELVSOIRXIV
MWM XEFIP HIRKER RSQMREP WIWYEM EVEL TIVKIWIVER XMXMO WEQFYRK KEVMW ]ERK
XIVNEHMHIRKERXMXMOXIRKELQYOEFE[ELVSO


44 PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

 4



 &YEX KEVMW TERKKYP QYPEM HEVM XMXMO WMWM TMRKKERK OI EVEL KEVMW TERKKYP
HIRKERYOYVERXMRKKMTERKKYP GQ LYFYRKOER HIRKERXMXMOWMWMFE[EL
VSO




 4IVFEMOM FIRXYO KEVMW TMRKKERK TERKKYP FE[EL VSO EKEV HMTIVSPIL KEVMW
PIRKOYRK]ERKPY[IW7IPERNYXR]E EOXMJOER JSVJI\ YRXYO RKIFPSO
TSPE


PEMBUATAN POLA ROK 45

 4




 %OXMJOERTool :HEVX FYEXOYTREXHIRKERYOYVERNEVEO OYTREXHEVM

TMRKKERKGQPIFEVOYTREXGQTERNERKGQ






 /PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHM WIFIPELOERER JMXYV QYRGYP
XEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQEFELER


46 PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

 4
' 4SPE&ER4MRKKERK
 %OXMJOERTool VIGXERKPI FYEXOSXEOHIRKERYOYVERTERNERK FER
TMRKKERKTERNERKPMRKOEVTMRKKERK GQYRXYOXIQTEXOERGMRKLEO 




 %OXMJOER Tool JSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE


PEMBUATAN POLA ROK 47

 4




 /PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPEL OERER JMXYV 
QYRGYPXEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQE FELER



( Grading 4SPE 6SO
 4IHSQERQIRKMWMRMPEMgrading


 7METOERWIPMWMLYOYVER
7->) 7 1 0 <0
0MRKOEVTMRKKERK    
8MRKKMTERKKYP    
0MRKOEVTERKKYP    
4ERNERKVSO    
7)0P7P,    
0MRKOEVTMRKKERK !  ! !
8MRKKMTERKKYP 
  
 

0MRKOEVTERKKYP !  ! !
4ERNERKVSO 
   

48 PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

 4


 %OXMJOERTool WM^ITMPMLIHMXWM^I
QIEWYVIQIRX


 %XMJOER KVEHIXEFPI   OPMOTEHEXMXMOTSPE ]ERK EOER HMgradingMWM

XEFIP HIRKER LEWMP WIPMWML HEVM QEWMRKQEWMRK YOYVER WIPERNYXR]E TMPML
XIOERXSQFSPWIWYEMHIRKEROSPSQ]ERKHMMWM
a. )UYEP<7LMJX< &MPEOSPSQ<]ERKHMMWM%VELLSVM^SRXEP HERRMPEMR]E
WEQE2MPEMWIPMWML 
b. )UYEP=7LMJX= &MPEOSPSQ=]ERKHMMWM%VELZIVXMGEP HER RMPEMR]E
WEQE7IPMWMLR]E 
c. <)UYEP=&MPEOSPSQHMMWMFIVWEQEERHIRKERRMPEM]ERKWEQE
d. <2SR)UYEP&MPERMPEgrading TEHEOSPSQ< FIVFIHE
e. =2SR)UYEP&MPERMPEgrading TEHEOSPSQ=FIVFIHE
f. <=2SR)UYEP2MPEgrading TEHEOSPSQ<HER= FIVFIHE


PEMBUATAN POLA ROK 49

 4


5. ,EWMPgrading

) 4IQFIVMER/EQTYL
%OXMJOERTool EHHWIEQ YRXYOQIQFIVM OEQTYL



* 4IR]YWYRER1EVOIV4SPE6SO


 &YOE Software 4MPMLRI[


50 PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

 4


 -WMOSPSQXEFIP



 -WMXEFIPWIPERNYXR]E



 %XYVTSPEHIRKERQIQEWYOOEROIEVIEOEMREXEYWIGEVESXSQEXMWHIRKER
EYXSRIWXMRK

PEMBUATAN POLA ROK 51

 4

52 PEMBUATAN POLA ROK

 BAB V
5
BAB
PEMBUATAN V BLOUSE
POLA

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

% 4SPE(EWEV&PSYWI
&IVMOYXEHEPELHIWEMRTSPEHEWEVHERWTIWMJMOEWMYOYVERTSPEFPSYWI


PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 53

 5


/IXIVERKER4SPE(ITER
%) PMRKOEVPILIVGQ
%* PMRKOEVPILIVGQ
)+ GQ
+, ~PIFEVQYOE
+P TERNERKTYRKKYRKGQ %+
P. }PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX 
P/ 8MRKKMTERKKYP
/0!&1 }PMRKOEVTERKKYPGQ
4 ~PMRKOEVOIVYRKPIRKER
*3 4ERNERKFELY
P6 GQ
65 GQ
67 8MRKKMHEHE

/IXIVERKER4SPE&IPEOERK
%) GQ
%* PMRKOEVPILIVGQ
)+ GQ
+, ~PIFEVTYRKKYRK
+P TERNERKTYRKKYRKGQ %+
P. }PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX 
P/ 8MRKKMTERKKYP
/0!&1 }PMRKOEVTERKKYPGQ
4 ~PMRKOEVOIVYRKPIRKER
*3 4ERNERKFELY
P6 GQ
65 GQ
67 8MRKKMHEHE

/IXIVERKER4SPE0IRKER
%& KEVMWHEWEVPIRKER
(' 8MRKKMTYRGEOPIRKER
'%!'& ~PMRKOEVOIVYRKPIRKER
() 4ERNERKPIRKER'(
)*!)+ PMRKOEVFE[ELPIRKER

54 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5


/IXIVERKER4SPE/IVEL
%& ~PMRKOEVOIVYRKPILIVGQ
%' GQPIFEVOIVEL
('&) 0IFEVOIVEL

9/96%2430%BLOUSE
7->) 7 1 0 <0
0MRKOEVPILIV    
0MRKOEVFEHER    
0MRKOEVTMRKKERK    
0MRKOEVTERKKYP    
8MRKKMTERKKYP    
4ERNERKTYRKKYRK    
4ERNERKFELY    
0IFEVQYOE    
0MRKOEVOIVYRKPIRKER    
8MRKKMHEHE    
4ERNERKOYTHEVMTMRKKERK    
0IFEVTYRKKYRK    
4ERNERKBlouse HEVMTMRKKERK    

& 1IQFYEX4SPEBlouse &EKMER(ITER

 %OXMJOERTool VIGXERKPI FYEXOSXEOHIRKERYOYVERTERNERKTYRKKYRK

GQTERNERKBlouse HEVMTMRKKERKHER}PMRKOEVFEHERGQ


PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 55

 5




 %OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRX TIR FYEXOIVYRKPILIV




 &YEXKEVMWPIFEVQYOEHIRKERYOYVERHEVMOIVYRKPILIVXYVYRGQOI
WEQTMRKOERER~PIFEV QYOE



 &YEXKEVMWTMRKKERKHIRKERQIRKYOYVHEVMXMXMOEXEWTERNERKTYRKKYRK
GQHEROIWEQTMRK}PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX 


56 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5



 &YEXKEVMWTERKKYPHIRKERYOYVERXMRKKMTERKKYPHEROIWEQTMRK}PMRKOEV
TERKKYPGQ


 &YEXKEVMWFELYHIRKERYOYVERVIRHELFELYGQHERTERNERKFELYGQ



 %OXMJOERTool GSQTEWWIW YRXYOQIQFYEXOIVYRKPIRKER


PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 57

 5


 %OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRX TIR YRXYOQIQFIRXYOOIVYRKPIRKER



 +IWIVXMXMOWMWMBlouse FEKMERFE[ELWEQEOERHIRKER}PMRKOEVTERKKYP
GQ


 ,YFYRKOERXMXMO]ERKXIPELHMFYEXYRXYOKEVMWWMWMBlouse


58 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5



 &YEX KEVMW TEVEPIP YRXYO QIQFYEX JPET FYXXSR PIFEV  GQ HIRKER QIRELER
mouse WEQFMP QIRKKIWIV OI HITER TSXSRK KEVMW FEKMER EXEW EKEV WINENEV
HIRKERHIRKEROIVYRKPILIV



 4IVTERNERKKEVMWFE[ELXIRKELQYOEFYEXKEVMWFE[ELBlouseHERTIVFEMOM
KEVMWEKEVPIRKOYRKFEKMERTERKKYPHERFE[ELBlouse PY[IW7IPERNYXR]E
EOXMJOERTool JSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE


PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 59

 5





 /PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPELOERER JMXYV 

QYRGYPXEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQE FELER



 %OXMJOERTool point YRXYOQIQFYEXXMXMOE[EPOYTREXHMFE[ELKEVMW
TMRKKERKHIRKERNEVEOOYTREXHEVMTMRKKERKGQHERTERNERKOYTREX
GQ


60 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5



 %OXMJOERTool JEWXMKMEXI HEVX FYEXOYTREXHEVMYNYRKFE[EL


 %OXMJOERTool HVMPP FYEXOERGMRK



 %OXMJOERTool FYXXSRLSPI FYEXPYFERKOERGMRK



PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 61

 5



' 4SPEBlouse &EKMER&IPEOERK

 %OXMJOER Tool VIGXERKPI   FYEX OSXEO HIRKER YOYVER TERNERK

TYRKKYRKGQTERNERKBlouse HEVMTMRKKERKHER}PMRKOEVFEHER
GQ








 %OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR FYEXOIVYRKPILIV



 &YEXKEVMWPIFEVTYRKKYRKHIRKERYOYVERHEVMOIVYRKPILIVXYVYRGQOI
WEQTMRKOMVM~PIFEVTYRKKYRK

62 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5



 &YEXKEVMWTMRKKERKHIRKERQIRKYOYVHEVMXMXMOEXEWTERNERKTYRKKYRK
GQHEROIWEQTMRK}PMRKOEVTMRKKERKGQGQOYTREX 



 &YEXKEVMWTERKKYPHIRKERYOYVERXMRKKMTERKKYPHEROIWEQTMRKOMVM}
PMRKOEVTERKKYPGQ


 &YEXKEVMWFELYHIRKERYOYVERVIRHELFELYGQHERTERNERKFELY GQ


PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 63

 5


 %OXMJOERTool GSQTEWWIW YRXYOQIQFYEXOIVYRKPIRKER




 %OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR YRXYOQIQFIRXYOOIVYRKPIRKER


64 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5


 4IVTERNERKKEVMWFIPEOERKQYOEFEKMERFE[ELGQ



 +IWIVXMXMOWMWMBlouse FEKMERFE[ELWEQEOERHIRKER}PMRKOEVTERKKYP
GQ



 7IPIWEMOERKEVMWWMWMHERFE[ELBlouse7IPERNYXR]EEOXMJOERTool JSVJI\
YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE



PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 65

 5





 /PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPEL OERERJMXYV 

QYRGYPXEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQE FELER


 %OXMJOER Tool point   YRXYO QIQFYEXXMXMO E[EPOYTREX HM FE[EL

KEVMWTMRKKERKHIRKERNEVEOOYTREXHEVMTMRKKERKGQHERTERNERKOYTREX
GQ



 %OXMJOERTool JEWXMKMEXIHEVX FYEXOYTREXHEVMYNYRKFE[EL


66 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5


 %OXMJOERTool TEXIVRW]QIXV] YRXYOQIQFYOETSPE



( 4SPE0IRKER9OYVER

0MRKOEVOIVYRKPIRKER    
8MRKKMTYRGEOPIRKER    
4ERNERKPIRKER    
0MRKOEVFE[ELPIRKER    


 %OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR YRXYOQIQFYEXKEVMWHEWEV PIRKER




 %OXMJOERTool GSQTEWWIW FYEXKEVMWHMEKSREPHIRKERYOYVER~
PMRKOEVOIVYRKPIRKER

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 67

 5


 %OXMJOER HIRKERTool HIZMHIV YRXYOQIQFEKMKEVMW





 %OXMJOERTool QSHMJ] YRXYOQIRKKIWIVFIFIVETEXMXMO




 %OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR WEQFYRKXMXMOQIRNEHMKEVMWOIVYRK
PIRKER7IPERNYXR]EWIPIWEMOERTERNERKPIRKER


68 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5



 %OXMJOERXSSPJSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE


 /PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPELOERERJMXYV 
QYRGYPXEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQE FELER



) 1IQFYEX4SPE/IVEL
9/96%2
7P>) 7 1 0 <0
0MRKOEVPILIV    
0IFEVOIVEL    

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 69

 5


 &YEXKEVMWHEWEVOIVELHIRKERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR ~PMRKOEVPILIV
–GQ



 +EVMWXIKEPPYVYWXMRKKMOIHYHYOEROIVELPIFEVOIVEL



 &YEXOIVELFEKMERFE[EL



 &YEXKEVMWXIKEOPYVYWHIRKERYOYVERPIFEVOIVEL


70 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5


 ,YFYRKOERFEKMERPYEVOIVEL


 %OXMJOERTool QSHMJ] YRXYOQIRKKIWIVYNYRKOIVEL




 %OXMJOERTool MRXIPPMKIRXTIR YRXYOQIQFYEXKEVMWPIRKOYRK



 %OXMJOERXSSPJSVJI\ YRXYORKIFPSOTSPE


PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 71

 5


 %OXMJOER XSSP YRXYOQIQFYEXTSPEOIVELYXYL


 /PMO\KEQFEVTSPE]ERKEHEHMWIFIPELOERERJMXYV QYRGYP

XEFIPMWMREQETSPEHERREQEFELER



* 4SPE -RXIVPMRMRK
 %OXMJOERTool QEOI MRXIVPMRMRK WIPIGOTMPMLKEVMWFEKMERTSPE]ERK
EOERHMFYEXMRXIVPMRMRK


72 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5


 0EOYOERYRXYOWIQYEFEKMERMRXIVPMRMRK



G. Grading 4SPEBlouse
1. 4IHSQERQIRKMWMRMPEMgrading

 7METOERYOYVERWIPMWML
7P>) 7 1 0 <0
0MRKOEVPILIV    
0MRKOEVFEHER    
0MRKOEVTMRKKERK    
0MRKOEVTERKKYP    
4ERNERKTYRKKYRK    
4ERNERKFELY    
0IFEVQYOE    
0MRKOEVOIVYRKPIRKER    
8MRKKMHEHE    
4ERNERKOYT    
0IFEVTYRKKYRK    

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 73

 5


4ERNERKBlouse HEVMTMRKKERK    
7)0P7P,9/96%2 7 1 0 <0
0MRKOEVPILIV    
0MRKOEVFEHER !  ! !
0MRKOEVTMRKKERK 
!  ! !
  
0MRKOEVTERKKYP !  ! !
4ERNERKTYRKKYRK 
!   !
4ERNERKFELY    
0IFEVQYOE !   !
0MRKOEVOIVYRKPIRKER !  ! !
8MRKKMHEHE    
4ERNERKOYT    
0IFEVTYRKKYRK !  ! !
4ERNERKBlouse HEVMTMRKKERK    


 %OXMJOERWM^ITMPMLIHMXWM^I
QIEWYVIQIRX



 -WMXEFIP


74 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5




 %OXMJOER KVEHI XEFPI  OPMO TEHE XMXMO TSPE ]ERK EOER HMgrading MWM
XEFIP HIRKER LEWMP WIPMWML HEVM QEWMRKQEWMRK YOYVER WIPERNYXR]E TMPML
XIOERXSQFSPWIWYEMHIRKEROSPSQ]ERKHMMWM
a. )UYEP<7LMJX< &MPEOSPSQ<]ERKHMMWM%VELLSVM^SRXEP HERRMPEMR]E
WEQE2MPEMWIPMWML 
b. )UYEP=7LMJX= &MPEOSPSQ=]ERKHMMWM%VELZIVXMGEP HER RMPEMR]E
WEQE7IPMWMLR]E 
c. <)UYEP=&MPEOSPSQHMMWMFIVWEQEERHIRKERRMPEM]ERKWEQE
d. <2SR)UYEP&MPERMPEgrading TEHEOSPSQ< FIVFIHE
e. =2SR)UYEP&MPERMPEgrading TEHEOSPSQ=FIVFIHE
f. <=2SR)UYEP2MPEgrading TEHEOSPSQ<HER= FIVFIHE




 ,EWMPgrading TSPEBlouse


PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 75

 5



H. 4IR]YWYRER1EVOIV4SPEBlouse

 &YOE7SJX[EVI TMPMLRI[

 -WMXEFIP


 -WMXEFIPWIPERNYXR]E


76 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 5


 %XYV TSPE HIRKER QIQEWYOOER OI EVIE OEMR EXEY WIGEVE SXSQEXMW HIRKER
autonesting

PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE 77

 5

78 PEMBUATAN POLA BLOUSE

 DAFTAR PUSTAKA

(EJXEV4YWXEOE

6MGLTIEGIKVSYT GS 0MQMXIH 6MGLTIEGI +EVQIRX '%( 7]WXIQ [[[VMGLTIEGI
GSQ
.S]GI %H[SE 3TTSRK )YRMGI %RXME]I ERH :MZMER &MRI]%MHSS 
%TTVEMWMRKXLI9WISJ'SQTYXIV8IGLRSPSK]MR+EVQIRX4VSHYGXMSR*MVQWMR
%GGVE8IQE1IXVSTSPMW%VXWERH(IWMKR7XYHMIW -7724ETIV 
-772<3RPMRI :SP

79
82