Dog Training Secrets! by Charlie Lafave

Dog Training Secrets!
by Charlie Lafave
www.DogTrainingZone.com
© NetBiz Marketing Inc. – All Rights Reserved Worldwide

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Legal Notice
While all attempts have been made to verify information in this publication,
neither the author nor the publisher assumes any responsibility for errors,
omissions or contradictory interpretation of the subject matter herein.
The purchaser or reader of this publication assumes responsibility of the use of

these materials and information. Adherence to all applicable laws and
regulations, including federal, state and local, governing dog training, licensing
and any other aspect of obedience training in the United States or any other
jurisdiction is the sole responsibility of the purchaser or reader. Neither the
publisher, NetBiz Marketing Inc., nor the author, Charlie Lafave, assume any
responsibility or liability whatsoever on behalf of any purchaser or reader of
these materials.
Finally, neither the author nor the publisher shall be held liable for any claim,
made by any person, trainer or owner, which arises out of the use, misuse or
implementation of the various methods contained in this book.
Table Of Contents
Proven Training System That Will Have Your Dog Or

Puppy Obeying Your Every Command!
LEGAL STUFF ....................................................................................... 2
COPYRIGHT NOTICE .............................................................................................2

LEGAL NOTICE .....................................................................................................2
TABLE OF CONTENTS ........................................................................... 4
INTRODUCTION .................................................................................... 12
LET ME INTRODUCE MYSELF AND P.T.................................................................13
CHAPTER 1: WHY TRAIN YOUR DOG? ................................................. 18
YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR DOG................................................................18

TRAINING CAN SAVE YOUR DOG’S LIFE ...............................................................19
THE LEGAL ISSUES ............................................................................................20
A WELL-TRAINED DOG WILL HAVE A MORE ACTIVE ROLE IN YOUR LIFE ................21
CHAPTER 2: CANINE PSYCHOLOGY AND SOCIALIZATION ...................... 22
WELCOME TO CANINE PSYCHOLOGY 101. ...........................................................22

YOU MUST BE THE ALPHA DOG ..........................................................................22
5 SUREFIRE WAYS TO BE THE LEADER OF YOUR PACK .......................................23

CANINE PERSONALITIES .....................................................................................26
THE 6 BASIC PERSONALITY TYPES ......................................................................26
1. AGGRESSIVE .......................................................................................27
2. CONFIDENT .........................................................................................27
3. OUTGOING ..........................................................................................27
4. ADAPTABLE .........................................................................................28
5. INSECURE ...........................................................................................28
6. INDEPENDENT .....................................................................................28
DOG BODY LANGUAGE .......................................................................................29
1. AGGRESSIVE .......................................................................................31
2. ALERT ................................................................................................33
3. ANXIOUS OR WORRIED ........................................................................34
4. CHASE MODE ......................................................................................35
5. FEARFUL.............................................................................................37
6. PLAYFUL/HAPPY ..................................................................................38
7. SUBMISSIVE ........................................................................................39
DOG SENSES ARE DIFFERENT THAN OURS ..........................................................41
1. SIGHT .................................................................................................41
2. HEARING ............................................................................................43
3. TOUCH ...............................................................................................43
4. SMELL ................................................................................................44
5. TASTE ................................................................................................45
SOCIALIZATION ..................................................................................................45
5 BASIC TIPS FOR SOCIALIZING YOUR DOG .........................................................48
20 THINGS YOU SHOULD INTRODUCE YOUR DOG TO AT A YOUNG AGE .................50
IMPORTANT NOTE ON REWARDS .........................................................................52
CHAPTER 3: PUPPY BEHAVIOR ........................................................... 54
WINNING YOUR PUPPY'S TRUST AND LOVE .........................................................54
LINEAR TRAINING ...............................................................................................55

PUPPY DEVELOPMENTAL STAGES .......................................................................56
PRE-SCHOOL .............................................................................................58
THE BASICS ...............................................................................................59
ELEMENTARY SCHOOL ................................................................................59
PREP SCHOOL............................................................................................60
COLLEGE ...................................................................................................60
THE VACCINATION CONTROVERSY ......................................................................61
5 TIPS FOR CHOOSING A GOOD VET ...................................................................66
6 TIPS TO HELP SOCIALIZE YOUR PUPPY ............................................................68
1. EARLY HANDLING ................................................................................69
2. DAY TRIPPIN’ ......................................................................................70
3. MAKE HIS NEW HOME A WELCOMING PLACE.........................................70
4. POINTERS ABOUT TOYS .......................................................................71
5. TAKE YOUR PUPPY FOR RIDES IN THE CAR...........................................72
6. BEGIN TRAINING EARLY .......................................................................73
PUPPY-PROOF YOUR HOME ........................................................................73
OUTSIDE EXERCISE ...........................................................................................76
OBEDIENCE TRAINING FOR YOUR PUPPY .............................................................76
DISCIPLINING .....................................................................................................77
CHAPTER 4: CRATE TRAINING............................................................. 78
WHAT’S SO GREAT ABOUT CRATES? ..................................................................78

CRATES AS HOUSETRAINING TOOLS ...................................................................79
3 KEYS TO CHOOSING THE RIGHT CRATE............................................................81
LOCATION OF CRATE .........................................................................................87
3 THINGS YOU NEED TO PUT IN YOUR PUPPY’S CRATE ........................................88
CRATING DURATION GUIDELINES ........................................................................89
CRATE ACCIDENTS OR HOUSE ACCIDENTS ..........................................................90
ALTERNATIVE METHOD OF CONFINING YOUR PUPPY ............................................90
CHAPTER 5: HOUSE TRAINING A PUPPY .............................................. 92
SETTING REALISTIC GOALS ................................................................................92

WHAT TO EXPECT DURING THE HOUSE TRAINING PROCESS .................................93
HOUSE TRAINING WHEN YOU ARE NOT HOME .....................................................94
PAPER TRAINING ...............................................................................................94
HOUSE TRAINING WHEN YOU ARE HOME ............................................................95
FROM PAPER TRAINING TO OUTSIDE POTTY BREAKS ...........................................96
10 MORE THINGS TO CONSIDER .........................................................................98
1. VETERINARY EXAM & URINE/FECAL CHECK ...........................................98
2. FEED YOUR PUPPY A HIGH-QUALITY PUPPY FOOD ................................98
3. CLOSE SUPERVISION IS ESSENTIAL .......................................................99
4. WHEN TO TAKE YOUR PUPPY OUT TO “GO POTTY” .............................100
5. ACTIVE HOUSE TRAINING ...................................................................100
6. NEUTRALIZE URINE ODORS WITH ENZYME-BASED DEODORIZER ...........100
7. NO WATER AFTER 9 PM ....................................................................101
9. AFTER-THE-FACT DISCIPLINE DOES NOT WORK!................................101
9. NEVER DISCIPLINE A DOG FOR SUBMISSIVE URINATION! ......................101
10. 3 KEYS TO SUCCESSFUL HOUSE TRAINING..........................................102
CHAPTER 6: HOUSE TRAINING YOUR ADULT DOG ............................. 104
HOUSE TRAINING BASICS .................................................................................104

HOUSE TRAINING AND DOG NATURE ..........................................................104
DEFINING THE LIVING AREA.......................................................................106
DEFINING THE DESIGNATED POTTY AREA ...................................................107
HOUSE TRAINING: A FEW MORE POINTERS................................................108
COMMON HOUSE TRAINING PROBLEMS ......................................................110
THE FIRST 7 DAYS OF HOUSE TRAINING YOUR ADULT DOG ................................111
REVIEW YOUR DAILY SCHEDULE ................................................................112
ALPHA DOG .............................................................................................114
WHERE DID YOU SAY THAT DEN WAS? .....................................................116

IDENTIFYING THE DPA ..............................................................................116
HOUSE BOUNDARIES ................................................................................116
GET OFF THE FURNITURE! ........................................................................117
MY COUCH IS NOT YOUR PERSONAL CHEW TOY! .......................................118
CHAPTER 7: A FEW BASICS BEFORE YOU START TRAINING................ 120
CHOOSING THE RIGHT LEASH AND COLLAR .......................................................120

7 BASIC TRAINING ITEMS YOU NEED TO GET STARTED .......................................123
THE 3 MOST IMPORTANT COMPONENTS OF TRAINING - PCP ..............................124
11 BASIC TRAINING TIPS ..................................................................................126
1. START EASY, MOVE TO MORE DIFFICULT ............................................126
2. CONSIDER THE BREED YOU’RE WORKING WITH ..................................126
3. KEEP IT SHORT AND SWEET...............................................................127
4. ADD DISTRACTIONS GRADUALLY.........................................................127
5. INCREASE THE DISTANCE BETWEEN YOU AND YOUR DOG....................128
6. DECREASE THE DISTANCE BETWEEN YOUR DOG AND DISTRACTIONS ...129
7. VARY PLACES, CONTEXT AND TIMES WHEN GIVING COMMANDS ...........129
8. MODULATE YOUR VOICE ....................................................................130
9. VARY THE ORDER OF YOUR COMMANDS ............................................131
10. PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE ....................................................................131
11. 3 OTHER EFFECTIVE TYPES OF CORRECTION ......................................132
CHAPTER 8: TRAINING A DOMINANT DOG .......................................... 135
DOG TRAINER VS. ANIMAL BEHAVIORIST ............................................................135

DOMINANT DOGS .............................................................................................136
5 SIGNS THAT YOU HAVE A DOMINANT DOG ......................................................136
YOU MUST BE THE ALPHA DOG, THE PACK LEADER IN YOUR PACK! ...................137
YOUR ROLE AS PACK LEADER ..........................................................................137
BEGIN TRAINING OF DOMINANT DOGS EARLY ....................................................138

A FINAL NOTE ON AGGRESSIVE DOGS ...............................................................142
CHAPTER 9: 10 BASIC COMMANDS FOR YOU AND YOUR DOG TO MASTER

....................................................................................................... 143
THE REWARD SYSTEM .....................................................................................144

A TRAINING NOTE ............................................................................................144
COME .............................................................................................................144
RECAP OF “COME” COMMAND ...................................................................146
SIT .................................................................................................................147
RECAP OF “SIT” COMMAND .......................................................................148
SIT - STAY .......................................................................................................149
RECAP OF “SIT - STAY” COMMAND ............................................................151
LIE DOWN .......................................................................................................152
RECAP OF “DOWN” COMMAND ...................................................................153
LIE DOWN - STAY.............................................................................................154
RECAP OF “DOWN - STAY” COMMAND ........................................................155
HEEL ..............................................................................................................156
1. BASIC HEEL ......................................................................................156
2. HEEL WITH IMMEDIATE SIT .................................................................157
3. COME TO HEEL AT CURB ...................................................................158
RECAP OF “HEEL WITH IMMEDIATE SIT” COMMAND .....................................159
FETCH (OR GO GET IT) ..................................................................................161
RECAP OF “FETCH” COMMAND ..................................................................163
DROP IT ..........................................................................................................163
RECAP OF “DROP IT” COMMAND ................................................................164
LEAVE IT .........................................................................................................165
RECAP OF “LEAVE IT” COMMAND ...............................................................165
SAY HELLO .....................................................................................................166
RECAP OF “SAY HELLO” COMMAND ...........................................................167
10 BASIC COMMANDS YOU AND YOUR DOG HAVE MASTERED ...........................168
CHAPTER 10: GAMES, TRICKS AND MIND TEASERS ........................... 169
6 GAMES TO PLAY WITH YOUR DOG .................................................................169

1. SOAP BUBBLES .................................................................................169
2. BALLOONS ........................................................................................170
3. TUG OF WAR ....................................................................................170
4. SOCCER OR FOOTBALL ......................................................................171
5. REMOTE CONTROL CARS ...................................................................172
6. FRISBEE ...........................................................................................173
5 TRICKS TO TEACH YOUR DOG .......................................................................173
1. BISCUIT ON THE NOSE ......................................................................174
2. FIND IT .............................................................................................174
3. JUMP OVER ......................................................................................175
4. POLE WEAVE ....................................................................................175
5. WALK UNDER ....................................................................................176
3 BRAIN TEASERS TO TEST YOUR DOG’S I.Q.....................................................176
1. THE TOWEL TEST ..............................................................................176
2. FIND THE TREAT TEST .......................................................................176
3. THROUGH THE BARRIER TEST ............................................................177
SCORING .................................................................................................177
CHAPTER 11: BITING AND NIPPING ................................................... 178
PUPPY NIPPING ...............................................................................................178

5 WAYS TO STOP YOUR PUPPY FROM NIPPING .................................................179
ADULT NIPPING OR BITING ................................................................................182
1. FEAR BASED AGGRESSION .................................................................183
2. DOMINANCE AGGRESSION ..................................................................183
3. PROTECTIVE OR TERRITORIAL AGGRESSION .......................................184
3 TIPS TO STOP YOUR ADULT DOG ADULT DOG FROM BITING OR NIPPING ..184
CHAPTER 12: 7 MORE COMMON BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS AND HOW TO

CORRECT THEM ................................................................................ 187
EXCESSIVE BARKING ........................................................................................188

5 TIPS TO STOP EXCESSIVE BARKING ...............................................................189
DESTRUCTIVE CHEWING ...................................................................................190
DIGGING UP THE BACKYARD ............................................................................192
DO YOU HAVE AN ESCAPE ARTIST?..................................................................194
DOGS WHO JUMP ............................................................................................198
SEPARATION ANXIETY AND (SEEMINGLY) SPITEFUL BEHAVIOR ............................200
“THUNDER” PHOBIA..........................................................................................201
CHAPTER 13: PROTECT YOUR PET FROM BEING STOLEN ................... 204
TATTOOING .....................................................................................................204
MICROCHIPPING ..............................................................................................205
10 PRECAUTIONS TO TAKE TO PREVENT YOUR DOG FROM BEING STOLEN .........205
7 TIPS FOR TAKING GREAT PHOTOS OF YOUR DOG ...........................................207
CHAPTER 14: WHAT TO DO WHEN YOU THINK YOUR PET IS LOST OR

STOLEN ........................................................................................... 212
IN PARTING ...................................................................................... 215
Introduction
Imagine . . . your dog galloping over to you, tail wagging, every time you call.
When you’re out for a walk and come to a street crossing, your dog sits patiently
at the curb, and waits to heel by your side across the street. When you get to the
other side, he only takes off after you give him a command letting him know he’s
free to walk or run on his own.
Imagine . . . your dog is known and loved by everyone in the neighborhood.

When you ask him to sit and stay, he does. When you ask him to lie down and
stay, he does. Every time. Without hesitation. When you walk your dog on a
leash, he doesn’t pull and tug you around the block. Instead, friends and
strangers alike are frankly amazed at how well your dog obeys your every
command.
And you know what? Trained properly, nothing will make your dog happier than
to respond correctly to your every command.
What’s more, your dog will enjoy more freedom if he is well-trained. Where legal,
you can walk your dog off-leash because he is under your voice control. Have
you ever thought how much more fun it is for your dog to go where he wants,
rather than stay right next to you on the leash all the time?
Also, a well-trained dog gets more exercise than a dog on a leash. Watch a dog
on a leash, and the same dog off-leash. Walk the same block. It seems to me
that a dog covers 10 times more territory, at a faster clip, when he is off-leash
than when he is on-leash.
And that means that a well-trained dog gets more exercise than a poorly-trained
dog. And a well-exercised dog is likely to exhibit fewer behavioral problems than
an under-exercised dog.
I’m sure you get the message. A well-trained dog will be healthier, happier, and
simply lead a better life than one who is not well-trained. And it’s just more fun
for you to have a well-trained dog – you can do more exciting things with him,
enjoy more experiences, and share a fuller, richer relationship together. What’s
more, your dog will reward you with even greater love, loyalty and affection
because his life will be better.
Sound interesting? Would you like this kind of life for you and your dog?
I thought so! That’s why I created “Dog Training Secrets.” Using the lessons
outlined in this book, you can lay the foundation for a lifetime of happy times with
your pet.
To make the most of this book, I recommend you read the entire book through at
least once before you start training. It’s not too long, and once you’ve read the
whole book, you’ll have a better understanding how the different lessons flow
together, one to the next, and taken together, form a comprehensive training
program for you and your dog.
But before we get started . . .
Let Me Introduce Myself And P.T.
My name is Charlie Lafave and I’ve had the great fortune to have several
wonderful dogs in my life. The last two, Schaffer and P.T. were exceptionally
well-trained. (Schaffer by me, P.T. by me and my brother Will.) It’s from this
personal experience that I urge everyone I know to train their dogs. I promise,
you’ll get a lifetime of rewards for you and your dog from a few good months of
proper training.
Bottom line? I truly believe that the relationship between a well-trained dog and
his owner is a thing of beauty. 1 A well-trained dog knows his boundaries, and
enjoys tremendous freedom as a result.
He is safer, happier, and lives a fuller life.
His owner takes great pride in his dog,
shares more activities with his dog, and
the two enjoy a life full of mutual love and
respect.
Let me give you an example.
I just took P.T. out for the day. P.T. is a

big, long, black and lanky dog. Very big,
very long, very black and very lanky! His
mother was a pedigreed American Lab, The author, Charlie Lafave, and his
“best friend” P.T.
and his father a lanky barnyard hound
with a lot of Golden Retriever in him. Though there are a lot of people who may
be afraid of big, black dogs, there’s just something about P.T. that causes people
to lose their fear almost instantly.
We went to the woods first, where we met many other dog owners out for a stroll
where they didn’t have to keep their dogs on a leash. We had never been there
before, but P.T. never got out of view, and always stopped where paths crossed
1
For smoother syntax, I’m going to refer to dogs as masculine, using “he,” “his” and “him.”
Please understand, this is for easier reading, and not meant as disrespect to female dogs. I’ve
shared great times with many lovely female dogs in my life, including my sister-in law’s two collie-
shepherd mixes, Aisha and Tess, and my sister’s yellow lab Piper.
in the woods to see which way we were going. All I had to do was point in one
direction or the other; he’d take his cue and be off on his run.
P.T. met many other dogs along the way, and greeted each without trying to
dominate them. Giving them space if they didn’t want to sniff, and wagging his
tail and playing with those willing to play.
Next, we took to the water, and splashed about along the banks of a broad,
shallow but rain-swollen river. Then we headed into the pretty little town of
Chagrin Falls, Ohio. We walked the town 2 times, stopping by the waterfall and
padding through the park. P.T. never once pulled on his leash. When told to
stay on heel, he heeled like the well-trained dog he is.
Children and adults came up to him to marvel at how big he was, and how well
he behaved. One elderly lady took a particular shine to P.T. Though excited at
all the new sights, sounds and smells, and all the human attention he was
getting, P.T. just sat there, wagged his tail, and let her pet him. He did not jump.
And I knew he wouldn’t. Parents introduced their kids to my huge, 100 pound
big, black dog. He would never bite them, even in fear. I know that and was
never worried.
You see, P.T. is 7 years old. He is extremely well-behaved. He never jumps up

on people no matter how excited he gets. If he seems overly-excited, I simply tell
him to sit and he does so until released. He has grown up around other dogs,
children and elderly adults, and has learned not to jump or to bite.
When I walk P.T., the leash is for show. I almost never use it, unless we’re in a
new town with people and traffic. He heels when told to heel, comes when
called, doesn’t hassle people or run after other dogs, is curious but not scared by
new sights and sounds. Okay, lest you think he’s too good to be true, he does
absolutely tear after squirrels when he is free to run, but at least he won’t cross a
street to chase one. And, thankfully, he doesn’t chase cats, perhaps because his
best friend back at the house is an old Persian Blue who thinks P.T.’s her own
personal teddy bear!
P.T. hangs out in the backyard all day long, and is never on a leash. The trash
man and the postman are not afraid of him. He knows his boundaries. Last
Memorial Day, for example, there was a street party in front of the house. P.T.
wanted to go to the party, but sat for hours in his yard without joining in, until he
was invited. No one was concerned for their children or animals because
everyone up and down the block knows and loves P.T.
Obviously, I’m quite proud of P.T. and how well-behaved he is. And as much as
I love to brag about P.T., I’ve told you this story for a reason: To Make You
Jealous!
That’s right! I want you to be jealous!! So jealous, in fact, that you commit
right here and now to train your dog.
When you’re done, will your dog be just as well-behaved as P.T.? I honestly
don’t know. It depends on you, your dog, how well and how often you train.
Remember, P.T. has been through 7 years of consistent training! What I do
know is that your dog will be much better behaved than he is now. And who
knows, one day your dog may even be better-trained than P.T.!
How do I know that? Because your dog and P.T. start at the same place. You
see, P.T. wasn’t born well-trained. He was trained. And there is no good reason
your dog can’t be just as well-trained.
You’ve heard my story. Let’s start working on the story of you and your dog
right now.
Chapter 1: Why Train Your

Dog?
Why indeed? The simple answer is that a well-trained dog is a lot more fun to
have around – but there’s really more to it than that.
Of course you want your dog to be well-behaved and mind your every word –
that almost goes without saying. A dog that bounces around, willfully doing
whatever it wants can be a royal pain to be around – barking, running, jumping
and being an overall nuisance. Playful and bouncy when they’re puppies can be
cute – when they grow up that kind of behavior not only loses its charm, it can be
downright dangerous.
Your Relationship With Your Dog
Your relationship with your dog should be based on mutual trust and respect.
Here’s a news flash for you: dogs won’t respect you unless you’re clearly the
one in charge. I’ll discuss this subject a great deal more in the next chapter, but
here is a key component to dealing with dogs: dogs are pack animals. They are
happiest and most confident in a situation where there is clearly a “leader of their
pack.” In your case, that’s you!
Does that mean you have to be a grumpy, strict disciplinarian to get your dog’s
attention, or to have a well-trained dog? Absolutely not! The best training is
accomplished with love and patience. But it does mean you have to be
consistent and thorough in your training methods, and leave no doubt in your
dog’s mind that you are the one in charge.
Training only improves the bond between you and your dog, building
communication and understanding. Dogs need to know their place in the world
to be content and happy – when you take the time to train your dog appropriately
you strengthen your dog’s perception of where he belongs and what his “job” is in
the world. As a consequence, he’s more confident of your ability to be his
“leader.”
Training Can Save Your Dog’s Life
Imagine walking your beloved, untrained dog near a busy city intersection – cars
and trucks whizzing by, drivers paying no attention to pedestrians or pets on the
sidewalk. Suddenly, your dog spots a cat across the street, slips out of his collar
and gives chase – right across that busy intersection. The chance he’ll get hit
and severely injured, or even killed, by one of those speeding vehicles is
extraordinarily high.
With a well-trained dog, two things would be very different about the scenario I
just described:
• Your dog wouldn’t have reacted in that manner when he spotted the cat.
• Even if he had slipped out of his collar for some reason, you would have
been able to control him with a simple “Come” or “Stay” command.
Training your dog gives you immediate voice control over him, eliminating many
potentially tragic situations. From straying into a busy intersection to wandering
out an opened gate, having a dog that is reactive to your voice commands will
enable you to call him back from settings and locations where he could be injured
or killed.
In addition, studies have shown that a well-trained dog has a much lower chance
of being surrendered to an animal shelter or humane society. A study conducted
in 2003 by a veterinarian and his colleagues at Purdue University at the Humane
Society of St. Joseph in Indiana found that the main reason owners surrender
their dogs is because they fail to obedience train them or have unrealistic
expectations of their pets. Some fifty-four percent of dogs surrendered were
between the ages of 6 months and 3 years old, and the behavioral problems
most frequently cited were barking, chewing, hyperactivity, housetraining
accidents and aggression.
Taking the time to train your dog will substantially increase the chances that you
and your dog will have a long-term and satisfying relationship – on both sides!
The Legal Issues
Yet another reason to have a well-trained dog is the simple fact that we live in a
very litigious society. It’s been estimated that someone in the United States
seeks medical attention for a dog bite about every 40 seconds. Of the
approximately 800,000 dog bites requiring medical treatment each year, most of
the victims are children, and the vast majority of victims are bitten on the face.
Almost $165 million is spent treating dog bites and more than 70% of attacks
occur on the owner’s property.
There are personal injury attorneys who specialize in handling dog bite cases.
That’s all they do, day in and day out. Think about that for a moment – it must be
a pretty lucrative practice if they can concentrate on only one type of lawsuit in
the personal injury field.
Do you want to be the target of their next lawsuit? Whether your dog has bitten
anyone before is irrelevant – you as the dog owner could well be held liable for
legal costs, medical bills and punitive damages, depending on the laws and
statutes where you live and the circumstances of the dog bite. Why take the
chance?
A Well-Trained Dog Will Have A More Active Role In Your Life
It’s a foregone conclusion that a well-trained dog will accompany you to more
places, do more things and have much more interaction with your family and
friends than a dog that is unpredictable and uncontrollable.
No banishment to the backyard because he can’t behave himself around visitors,

no leaving him behind on a trip to the beach or park – you’ll find yourself thinking
of ways to include him in your activities because he’s a pleasure to have around.
And because he’s so well-behaved, he’ll receive more than his share of attention
from visitors, strangers and passers-by when you’re out and about. He’ll be
happier with all that additional time spent around you, and you’ll be proud that
your dog is such a credit to you. You’ll be thrilled that you took the time to spend
training him!
Chapter 2: Canine Psychology

And Socialization
Welcome To Canine Psychology 101.
What makes a dog … well, a dog?
Unfortunately, dogs don’t come with instruction manuals, so we have to apply a little
canine psychology to figure out how they think, and what is the best approach to take
when training.
You Must Be The Alpha Dog
First, let’s take a look at what a “pack mentality” means. Dogs are born into
packs – in the wild, packs are the essential social order. Unlike humans, who use
a variety of political processes to determine leadership and rank, dogs sort out
their social order by dominance and power. In a wolf pack, there is a Top Dog –
a clear leader who is the dominant, Alpha male. He’s the Big Dog, with pride of
place at the dinner table (well, if wolves had a dinner table!), first in mating, first
in decision making for the pack.
Whether you realize it or not, your dog views your household as his own personal
wolf pack. The pack mentality is so engrained in your dog’s psyche that he will
either view you as a leader – or a follower – depending on your actions. If you
are to have a well-trained dog, you must establish that you are the leader, and he
is the follower. Your dog has to know in his heart that you are the Alpha Dog, the
Head Honcho, the Big Dog, the Big Enchilada – call it what you want, but your
dog needs to know you’re in charge.
Dogs are a little like children in one respect – they’re looking for someone else to
be the leader – they want rules and regulations because that makes their role in
the pack more clear-cut and understandable. It’s scary being the leader – if
you’re not up to it, your dog may assume the role – because someone has to be
in charge!
5 Surefire Ways To Be The Leader Of Your Pack
Being the leader of the pack has absolutely nothing to do with harsh punishment.
It has everything to do with consistency and setting limits.
If you have problems in your household with who’s in charge – you need to re-
examine your relationship with your dog. Does he think he’s the boss? In your
effort to form a closer bond with your pet, you may have inadvertently given him
the wrong impression, leading him to believe he’s the Leader of the Pack – not
you. In a minute, I’m going to show you some ways to correct that behavior.
Bur first, here’s an important note: you don’t have to be a harsh disciplinarian to
be the leader of your pack. In fact, being too strict and too insensitive is one of
the quickest ways I know of to turn a cooperative and enthusiastic learner into a
cowed and fearful pet. Patience, consistency and love are the best ingredients to
turning out a well-trained and obedient dog.
And one more thing – you should only train your dog to the level you feel
comfortable with – in other words, you don’t have to train your dog to be a robot,
or the best-trained dog on the face of the earth. If you’re comfortable with your
dog knowing his basic commands, and he’s a pleasure to have around you and
your friends and your family – that can be good enough. You don’t have to
compete on a national level in agility trials, or be able to win Best of Show at
Westminster. Just make sure your dog knows enough to mind you, mind the
family, and is fun to have around – because a dog that doesn’t have those
qualities usually earns a quick trip to the humane society – and that’s a shame,
because it’s your fault when that happens – not the dog’s.
Try these simple techniques to show your dog who’s the boss:
1. You Go Through Doors First
Even something as straightforward as who walks through the door first

can reinforce your position as “dominant dog.” Leaders lead. Followers
follow. If you allow your dog to charge through the door ahead of you, he
perceives that as asserting his dominance over you. Put your dog on the
leash, and make sure you’re the first one through the door.
2. Don’t Walk Around Your Dog
Does your dog lie on the floor and expect you to walk around him? In the
wild, dominant dogs lie wherever they want, and dogs lower in the
social order go around so they don’t disturb the Big Dog. If you walk
around your dog, he will assume this to be an act of submission on your
part; therefore he must be the leader, not you.
If your dog is lying in the middle of the hallway, or right in front of your
easy chair, make him move. If he’s on the couch and you want to lie
down, make him move. Don’t step over him. Just gently nudge him and
make him get out of your way.
3. You Eat First
Who gets fed first in your house – you or your dog? In a wolf pack, the
leader eats first, and when he is done, the rest of the pack can dine. Do
you feed your dog first because he pesters you when you’re cooking your
dinner, and it’s simply more convenient to have him quiet and out of the
way when you’re eating?
Food is a powerful motivator that can be used to clearly demonstrate who

is the ruler of the roost at your house. In no way, shape or form am I
suggesting that you withhold food from your dog – that’s cruel and unusual
punishment any way you look at it. What I am suggesting is that you
control the timing of the food – you should eat first, your dog second, after
you’re done with your meal.
4. You Determine When Your Dog Gets Attention
Even asking for attention or affection can be seen as an act of dominance

from your dog’s point of view. Dogs that demand attention are
asserting dominance, so if your dog gets pushy, ignore him. When
you’re ready to give him attention or affection or pet or play with him, ask
him to sit first.
Don’t run after him just so you can pet him. Make him come to you when
you’re ready to give him attention, or play with him. And when you play
with a toy, make sure that you end up with possession of the toy, and then
put the toy away when you’re done. (Note: I’m not talking about his
favorite toys that you leave in his crate. I’m talking about play toys that the
two of you use for games.)
5. Don’t Let Your Dog Sleep In Your Bed
This is a tough one for a lot of people, but when you let your dog share
your bed, at best you’re making him an equal to you. He should have
his own bed, either a dog pad or his crate that he feels comfortable in –
you can even put the dog pad next to your bed if that makes both of you
happier – but don’t let him take over the sleeping arrangements. Before
you know it, he’ll be trying to make you sleep on the floor!
Again, reinforcing or retraining your dog to recognize you as the Head

Honcho has absolutely nothing to do with harsh discipline. These are
changes you can make that will change the way your dog thinks about you. And
making even small changes like these can have an enormous impact on the way
your dog views the social hierarchy in your home – all without a harsh word being
spoken!
Canine Personalities
By and large it is agreed that all dogs are individuals, and their personalities can
be affected by heredity, upbringing and training, but it’s also valid to categorize
dogs by the generally accepted classifications for personality types.
Also keep in mind that different breeds are going to respond to training
differently, depending on some of the characteristics of the specific breed. For
example, Border Collies are pretty well-known for nipping – not because they’re
inherently a mean or aggressive breed, but because they’ve been designed by
nature and bred over a lifetime to herd livestock – and the way a 50 – 60 pound
dog manages a 1,000 pound bull is by nipping at his heels or nose. So Border
Collies as a breed – not an individual, necessarily – may need some additional
focused training on not nipping at the kids’ heels when they run away while
playing. Or you may be expecting great training results from a breed such as a
German Shepherd, only to find that they’re a bit more independent than you
thought. You need to take into account the breed you’re working with, and
adjust your training accordingly.
The 6 Basic Personality Types
There are six general personality types, according to the American Kennel Club:
1. Aggressive
2. Confident
3. Outgoing
4. Adaptable
5. Insecure
6. Independent
Let’s take a look at each one in turn.
1. Aggressive
Dogs with an aggressive personality are extremely dominant, and

resistant to human leadership. These dogs do best with precise guidance
and consistent, rigorous training. Although easily provoked into biting, they
can be trained to be a strong and well-behaved companion, with the right
owner who leaves no doubt as to who is in charge. Many of these dogs
end up being excellent choices as police or guard dogs.
2. Confident
Confident dogs are … well, confident. Self-assured and dominant, these

dogs easily accept human leadership that is firm and consistent. The
confident dog responds best to an owner who is determined and decisive
and can give clear-cut instructions and training. Confident dogs make fine
working or show dogs, and fit easily into homes where the owner(s) know
what they’re doing.
3. Outgoing
The outgoing dog is friendly and sociable, and usually well-adjusted if he

receives regular training and lots of exercise (if it’s appropriate for his
breed). Outgoing dogs typically have a flexible temperament that adapts

well to different environments if they are handled correctly. As a rule they
make wonderful family pets.
4. Adaptable
Adaptable dogs tend to be somewhat submissive in nature, making them

easy to handle and cooperative. Easy to train and reliable with children,
the adaptable dog is usually gentle and affectionate, and does well in a
family setting. They sometimes lack self-confidence, but with training and
encouragement they can turn into a high-quality family pet.
5. Insecure
The insecure dog is extremely submissive and lacking in self-confidence.

He typically bonds very closely with his owner, but requires constant
support and encouragement to overcome his timidity. If handled
incorrectly, the insecure dog will grow up to be very shy and fearful.
These dogs do best in homes with a predictable, structured lifestyle with
owners who are patient and undemanding.
6. Independent
A dog with an independent personality is almost uninterested in people,

except for the all-important food factor. These dogs are usually perfectly
content to do their own “dog thing” – in other words they have a very low
need for human companionship. Most often not demonstrably
affectionate, they can be trained to specific duties, such as working cattle
or other livestock.
As with any personality traits (even human!) there are varying degrees of each
type, as well as combinations. You may have a dog that has two or more
overlapping personality types – thus you may need to adapt your training
methods to take into account your dog’s specific personality quirks. Learning to
“read” your dog is an important step in being an effective trainer.
And speaking of “reading” your dog, let’s talk about doggie body language.
Dog Body Language
In recent years the reading of human body language has become almost an art
form – and it’s not really any different with dogs. You can learn, simply by
observing and watching your dog closely – what he’s thinking, what he’s about to
do, what he’s feeling about the situation and even predict what his immediate
future actions might be.
Dogs communicate with each other by using a variety of vocal sounds (barking,
whining, etc.), body positioning and postures and facial expressions. Since they
don’t have a spoken language like humans, they can’t get up and give a speech
when they’re trying to warn off intruders, or tell their housemate that it’s time to
run down to the 7-11 for a cup of coffee and a donut. Watch your dog around
other dogs, and you’ll see that the initial, stiff-legged dog strut is demonstrated
every time. That’s dog body language.
Then stop and think about how your dog reacts when someone comes to your
front door – he likely barks and acts more aggressively, unless it’s someone your
dog knows and is familiar with, in which case he may whine or even jump for joy.
All of these actions are ways that your dog is trying to communicate with you,
and whoever is at the front door. Or, in the case of a burglar – at the back door.
Or window. And at that point, your dog may be barking wildly, or growling like
he’s ready to bite someone; what he’s trying to tell you is that there’s a serious
problem that you need to come take care of!
By watching your dog and becoming familiar with his mannerisms and the way
he reacts under normal circumstances, you can determine when he’s more
agitated than usual, when he’s mad, when he’s afraid, when he’s listening to you,
when he’s ignoring you – all very important information to know when you’re
training your dog.
Don’t feel this is a one-way street – your dog is learning to “read” you at the
same time. The more time you spend training your dog, and the closer you bond
with him, the more likely it is that you’ll get to the point where you can control
your dog with a look, or a hand gesture, or even a tone of voice. For example,
my dog P.T. isn’t trained to be an automaton – he’s free to think on his own, and
react to situations, but there’s a certain tone I use with him – low and stern – that
allows only for obedience. I don’t use it very often, frankly, I don’t need to use it
very often, but when I do, P.T. knows beyond a shadow of a doubt that he must
obey me. The key is to having that training in your pocket – and in your dog’s
mind – when you need it.
This is also important when you and your dog are out in public, and encounter
other dogs. If your dog is off-leash at the park, for example, and you see another
dog approaching in an aggressive or challenging manner, it might be a good time
to put your dog back on his leash and walk away – before your dog ends up in a
fight where he could get hurt or even killed. A little pre-reading of the situation
can save you time, money and an injured pet.
So let’s take a look at 7 of the most common doggie body language postures,
and what they mean.
1. Aggressive
The dog who’s behaving in an aggressive manner will

almost always be facing your straight-on, eyes
narrowed or with a challenging stare focused right on
you (or on your dog.) The ears may be either pricked
up and forward, or pinned back close to the head.
His mouth may be open, with the lips drawn back,

exposing his teeth in a snarl. He may snap or try to bite. His body will be
tense, upright and usually stiff-legged, sometimes he’ll be advancing
toward you in a challenging manner, sometimes he may be standing still,
but his entire attention will be directed at you. His tail will be puffed up,
and depending on the breed either curled over the back or stuck straight
out from the body. His hackles – the ruff on the back of his neck, back and
down to the tail – may be raised. He may be vocalizing by snarling,
growling or barking.
What he’s telling you: “Stay away! Don’t come any closer. I don’t like
what you’re doing. I’m really ticked off!”
How you should react: If this is your dog, you have a behavioral
problem you need to deal with immediately. This dog is showing
aggression in a completely unacceptable manner to you – he doesn’t have
a clue that you’re the leader of his pack – he thinks he is! Or this dog has
been so abused or mistreated that this is the only way he knows how to
react in new situations because – in his mind - the entire world is
something to be feared and fought.
Do not – repeat – do not, react by physically striking your dog when he

does this. Physical punishment will only encourage your dog to think he’s
in a fighting situation – and his next step will be to show you that he’s a
better fighter than you are! (And that means you’re going to be bitten!!)
Hopefully, your dog will be on his leash, and a sharp “No,” plus a quick
correction with the leash will grab his attention. Put him in the sitting
position and hold one finger up in front of his nose (but out of reach of his
teeth!) and tell him again “No,” or “Stop that,” in a stern and loud tone of
voice.
If he’s not on his leash, tell him “No,” or “Stop that,” and hold your finger
up in front of him – just the same as if he were on his leash. The
difference is, you won’t be able to give him a correction with the leash,
because by the time you go in the house, get the leash, put it on him and
correct him, he’ll have forgotten why he was growling at you in the first
place.
You’ve got a lot of work to do with this dog, including re-socializing him
and making him understand that you’re the leader of the pack. You’ll need
to go back to square one, reestablishing a bond and trust with him, so that
he understands that this behavior is unacceptable. If he continues to
engage in this behavior, I’d also encourage you to consult an animal
behavioral specialist for additional help.
If the dog that engages in aggressive behavior isn’t your dog – for
example, it’s a dog you encounter at the park or at a neighbor’s house –
stay away. And keep your dog away from him, as well. It isn’t your dog,
and you don’t have a hope of controlling its behavior, so don’t even try. If
the dog is running loose in the park - don’t approach it – but if it
approaches you or charges you in any way, raise your voice and say “Get
away,” loudly and sharply – lifting your arms in the air and generally
making yourself as big as possible. Don’t walk forward toward the animal,
as he may perceive this as an act of aggression on your part and charge
you. And whatever you do, don’t turn your back and run away. That
instantly makes you fair game – i.e.: prey – and the dog will give chase.
If this dog is at your neighbor’s house, again, stay away. Don’t challenge
him in any way – this is his house, and you’re the intruder – at least in his
mind, so simply ask your neighbor to call off his dog.
2. Alert
This dog is alert and prepared for whatever is about to

happen. This isn’t an aggressive stance, just a
complete focus of attention. Depending on the
situation, an alert dog might be ready to jump on an
intruder, pay close attention to a training session, or
play with the kids.
An alert dog typically has his ears pricked up and forward, listening
intently for sounds, commands or other signals to act. His eyes will be
opened normally or even widely, but he will be looking directly at you. His
mouth may be either open or closed – if open his teeth won’t generally be
showing, unless he’s panting and has his tongue out. His body position
will be relaxed but focused – he can be standing, sitting or even lying
down, but he is prepared to move in any direction. His tail may be up and
possibly wagging, depending on the situation. He generally won’t be
vocalizing – he’s simply in a waiting mode until he sees what’s going to
happen next.
What He’s Telling You: Okay, I’m paying attention – now what?
How You Should React: If you’re in a training session, this is exactly

how you want your dog to be. He’s focused on you, paying attention and
should easily absorb what it is you’re trying to teach him.
On the other hand, if it’s not you he’s focused on – say he’s just spotted a
squirrel running across the lawn at the park - you’ll want to re-engage his
attention. Gently tug on his leash until he returns his gaze to you, then
continue the lesson.
Be aware of when his interest wanders – if he’s watching the squirrels,

he’s not paying attention to what you’re trying to teach him. Too many
distractions around can make for a frustrating training session – for both of
you. You’ll be frustrated because he’s not listening, he’ll be frustrated
because you’re getting mad at him and he won’t understand why. Either
move the training session to a quieter location, or save it for another day.
3. Anxious Or Worried
The anxious or worried dog is unsure of

himself, or you, or the situation he finds
himself in. Whether he’s facing a larger,
more aggressive dog, or he’s uncertain of
your reaction to something he’s done (or
hasn’t done), or whether he just doesn’t like
what’s going on at that particular moment, this dog is uncertain and
insecure.
An anxious dog’s ears are frequently laid back or partially laid back
against his head, and his eyes will usually be slightly narrowed.
Sometimes he’ll meet your gaze, sometimes he’ll avoid it. His mouth may
be closed, or opened slightly in a “grin”, as if to say, “Is everything ok?”
His body will be tense and may be slightly lowered in a submissive

posture; his tail will probably be partially lowered. He may be vocalizing in
a low whine, or a “moaning-type” bark.
What He’s Telling You: “I’m really unsure of myself. I’m not sure if I
should be afraid or mad. I could go either way.”
How You Should React: This dog needs reassurance, but shouldn’t be
babied. You don’t want to reward him for acting afraid. For example, if
you’re at your vet’s office, and your dog tries to hide under the chair or
behind your legs, don’t pick him up (if he’s small enough) and coddle him,
because then he’ll get the idea that he’ll get rewarded (praise and petting)
for being afraid or anxious. Simply talk to your dog in a reassuring and
“happy” tone of voice, and act as if everything is completely normal. If you
act as you always do, your dog will take his cue from you – if you act
upset, your dog will be upset as well.
Sometimes dogs who have been abused or neglected will display this type
of behavior – your best approach is to slowly gain their trust and
confidence. If the problem is situational, in other words, if your dog is
acting anxious or worried because he’s facing a larger opponent or he’s in
an environment that is making him uncomfortable, he probably needs
more socialization and exposure to different situations until he builds the
self-confidence to be comfortable in any situation.
4. Chase Mode
The dog who is preparing to go into the chase

mode has his attention fixed firmly on his prey
– whether that’s a squirrel, another dog, your
kids, a bird, whatever. The point is, he’s not
paying attention to you!
A dog who’s in chase mode will have his entire attention focused on what
he’s going to chase – his eyes will be wide open and very alert, his ears
pointed forward, his mouth may be either closed or slightly opened, and
he may be panting. His body position will be tense and alert, and he’ll be
poised to take off at any second. He may actually begin taking steps
toward his prey. His tail will probably be extended straight out from his
body, and he probably won’t be vocalizing at all, unless it’s a very low
growl.
What He’s Telling You: “I’m about to take off and go chase that …
whatever is over there.”
How You Should React: Something or someone has clearly engaged

your dog’s attention. If he’s not on his leash, put him back on his leash
before he takes off. When a dog is this focused on something, he typically
won’t listen to a “stay” or “down stay” command, unless he’s extremely
well-trained. And, depending on the prey, there are occasions when even
a well-trained dog won’t listen. Physical control is what you need here, so
back on the leash he goes until the prey has left, you’ve moved to another
location or he is no longer distracted by whatever’s going on.
This is also important if you have your dog off-leash, say at the park, and
you spot another dog going into chase mode, especially if your dog is
smaller than the dog that’s preparing to give chase. A quick scoop-up or
putting your dog back on his leash and back under your control can save
you some vet bills and an injured pet.
5. Fearful
A dog that is fearful – for whatever reason – has a more

extreme demeanor than a dog who is anxious or
worried. His ears will be laid back flat and low on his
head, and his eyes will usually be averted – he’ll avoid
meeting your gaze directly, since in the pack this could
be construed as a sign of aggression.
This dog’s attention will be focused on you, but not in the manner you
want – he’s thinking he’s going to be physically hurt, or he’s done
something he knows he’s going to get in trouble for, or he’s been abused
and he’s afraid of everything. A fearful dog is tense, and will usually carry
his body low, often crouched in a submissive posture, and he may be
shivering or trembling. His tail may be tucked between his legs, and he
may be secreting scent from his anal glands, or even urinating. He may be
vocalizing by whining, or a low, worried yelping or “moaning-type” bark.
What He’s Telling You: “I’m terrified. Help me before I pass out. I may
need some Prozac.”
How You Should React: This dog clearly needs some help. Or some
counseling! The first thing you should do is try to figure out what is
causing your dog to be so fearful. Is it situational? Meaning, has he done
something wrong that he’s afraid he’s going to be punished for? If that’s
the case, you need to rethink your methods of discipline with this dog,
because I would guess that you’ve been too harsh with him in the past,
which is what’s causing such an extreme reaction in him today.
If this is an abused or neglected dog, then he’s afraid of most everything in

his world, and you need to take patient and loving steps to re-socialize
him, and regain his trust, so he knows that not everything in the world is
out to get him. Slowly begin re-socializing him – take him places with you,
speak to him in a calm and quiet tone of voice, use gentle measures for
any disciplinary action – and above all, be very, very patient in everything
you do with this dog. It’s well worth the time and effort to regain his trust
and teach him that you’re not going to abuse or neglect him, but it takes
time – it won’t happen overnight.
6. Playful/Happy
A happy dog or one that is in a playful mode will

typically have his ears pricked up and tilted
forward, or will appear relaxed. His eyes will be
wide open, and have a merry or sparkling look in
them. His mouth will be slightly opened, with
teeth generally covered, unless he’s panting and excited.
His body will be relaxed, although sometimes you’ll see the “play bow”
move, where he lowers his front end and sticks his butt in the air, as if to
entice you to come play with him. He may also be barking and jumping
around in an excited fashion, or circling around you or running back and
forth in an invitation to play. His tail will be wagging, and he may vocalize
by excited barking or even a soft play-growl.
What He’s Telling You: “C’mon, let’s play a game! I’m ready for some
down time!”
How You Should React: If it’s play time, by all means, play! This is a
great opportunity to bond with your dog, and gives both of you a nice
break from training. In Chapter 10, I’ve given you some cool games to
play with your dog, as well as some tricks you can teach him if you’re so
inclined. Check them out.
If this isn’t play time, and you’re dog is engaging in this behavior, you need
to bring his attention back to the matter at hand – whatever it is you’re
trying to teach him at that particular moment. His attention is already
focused on you, but you need to let him know that this isn’t time to play
fetch, or whatever game is his favorite. Put him back on-leash if he’s not
already, and return to the training session. This is especially important in
the context of being the Leader of Your Pack – you should determine
when it’s time to play – not your dog. If he wants to take a break and play
right in the middle of a training session, and you let him get away with it –
he’ll interpret that as being the leader, because you allowed it to happen.
Just make sure that you are the one who says it’s play time – not him.
7. Submissive
A submissive dog is not necessarily the

same thing as an anxious or fearful dog.
A submissive dog is trying to demonstrate
through body positioning and actions that
he represents absolutely no threat to the
Top Dog – in this case you!
In the wild, the Leader of the Pack, upon encountering a strange dog or
even a lesser member of his own pack, will instantly approach in an
aggressive manner, to warn off the intruder or to reemphasize his own
position in the pack. The less dominant dogs, unless they’re interested in
challenging the leader for his right to lead, will engage in submissive
posturing in order to avoid a fight. This doesn’t mean they’re necessarily
fearful – they just want the Top Dog to know they don’t need to have their
butt kicked at that particular moment in time.
A submissive dog will have his ears flattened down against his head, and
his eyes will usually be averted, sometimes narrowed and sometimes wide
open with the whites showing. His lips may be pulled back from his teeth
in a “grin” that’s telling the Top Dog that “I’m ok, I just want to hang out
with the pack.” He may also nuzzle or lick the Leader in the face, and may
roll over on his back with his stomach exposed – a position of extreme
vulnerability. He may discharge from the anal scent glands, or even
urinate. His tail will be tucked between his legs, and he may vocalize by a
yelping or whimpering sound.
What He’s Telling You: “I’m not a threat – you’re the boss – I’m totally
subordinate to whatever you want to do.”
How You Should React: This dog clearly recognizes that you’re the
Leader of the Pack, but you may want to ease up on your discipline,
because he’s over-reacting to your presence or something you’re doing.
Rethink how harshly you’ve disciplined this dog in the past – especially if
he displays submissive urination – because what that means is that you’re
literally scaring the piss out of your dog – and is that really how you want
your pet to respond to your presence?
Spend a little more time bonding with your dog, and encouraging him to
gain some self-confidence. You really don’t want a dog that is cowed and
submissive all the time. Or if you do, ask yourself why you have a pet in
the first place?
By learning to read your dog’s body language, you can anticipate not only
what he’s going to do, but what he’s thinking about doing. Does that make
you a mind reader? Well, a body language reader, anyway. If you know
and understand your dog’s mannerisms, you can predict – in most cases –
what he’ll do next. It can be an invaluable tool in a training context, as
well as a protective sense.
Dog Senses Are Different Than Ours
Another factor you need to take into consideration is that our dog’s senses are
different that ours – so something that wouldn’t be distracting to you will be
distracting to your dog – making it critical that you understand just what your dog
sees, hears and perceives.
Dogs share the same basic senses with us: they see, hear, touch, smell and
taste. But the level of their senses is different – an important distinction when
you’re trying to figure out just what your dog is doing.
For example, your dog may be distracted by the sight of a squirrel running up a
tree – a squirrel that you can’t even see, or may see as simply a blur of motion. If
you’re trying to train your dog, and he’s focused on the squirrel, he’s not listening
to you – he’s watching the squirrel. It’s important that you understand that, so
you don’t get frustrated and angry because he’s not listening to you. It’s not that
you’re not interesting; it’s just that the squirrel is more interesting. You’ll need to
re-engage his attention before your training session can continue.
1. Sight
It was once thought that dogs were “color-blind” – only able to see shades
of black and white with some grey, but scientific studies have found that’s
not true. Dogs can see in color – ranging from blues and greens to grays
and crèmes, and of course, black and white. It’s been estimated that
humans can distinguish somewhere between 7 and 10 million different
colors. (We don’t even have names for that many colors!)
This picture shows the difference between colors that your dog can
distinguish, and colors that you can see. Why is this important? Because
if you’re trying to train your dog to be able to go to his toy box and retrieve
a particular toy by color, for example, it might be nice if he could see the
color! If you tell him: “go get the red ball,” he’ll probably have more
success if you have him retrieve a blue or yellow ball.
Source: Dr. P’s site: http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/dog
But dogs have it all over humans in one area of sight: detecting motion –
that’s one reason they can spot a cat up a tree at a much greater distance
than you can! And their night vision is usually better than ours – dogs
have an additional reflective layer in the eye called the tapetum lucidum,
which reflects light back into the receptor cells of the eye, which not only
increases their night vision, but gives them that spooky appearance of
eyes glowing in the dark.
2. Hearing
When your dog is barking like crazy in the middle of the night, don’t just
assume he’s lonely and wants you to get up and keep him company. He
may be listening to something that you can’t hear, that’s extremely
upsetting to him – like a burglar breaking in your basement window.
Dogs can hear at a four times the distance humans can – that means you
might hear something from a 100 yards away your dog could hear from a
quarter of a mile away. Their ears are also better designed to gather more
of the available sound wave – they have 15 different muscles that move
their ears in all directions, plus they can move one ear at a time – and
independently of the other to absorb even more information!
When you’re training your dog, or even when you’re just hanging around
in the family room - watch his ears. He may be looking right at you, but
his ears are twitching and moving around like miniature radars (which they
really are!) and although he’s maintaining eye contact, he’s really not
paying attention, because he’s listening to something you can’t even think
about hearing. This is another clue to his behavior that can give you a
heads-up on future action – such as anticipating wild barking when he
hears the burglar in the garage.
3. Touch
Dogs also have a well-developed sense of touch, surprising perhaps

under all that fur, although this sense is much less sophisticated than a
human’s. Puppies are born with sensory receptors in their faces so they
can find mama even if they’re separated before they open their eyes. But
they also can sense touch all over their bodies, just as humans can. One
reason your dog flops down on the couch next to you and tries to snuggle
up on a hot day (or any other day for that matter!) is because he likes the
comfort of feeling that you’re right there!
Like any animal, there are places on his body that are much more
sensitive than others. His nose, for example, is one of the most sensitive
places on his body – that’s why I recommend only a slight tap on the nose
for discipline – anything harder is extremely painful to your dog. (Think of
how it feels when someone whacks you on the soles of your feet – that’s
approximately how your dog feels getting rapped on the nose.)
4. Smell
We can’t even come close to our dog’s ability

to smell things. It’s been estimated that a
dog’s sense of smell is 100,000 times more
powerful than a human’s. Scientists think that
humans have about 40 million olfactory
receptors, versus 2 billion for your dog!
That’s part of the reason dogs make such good trackers, and can trace
scents across all sorts of distractions – like across roadways or through
dense woods.
Dogs also use their sense of smell as a communication tool – when

they’re running around the park with their nose to the ground, sniffing
everything in sight, they’re actually reading the calling cards of everyone –
dogs, humans, cats, squirrels, and anyone or anything else, that has been
there before him. This is why he may not pay attention to you when you
first get to the park – he’s trying to see if any of his buddies have been
there before him!
5. Taste
Just as with humans, taste is closely linked to the sense of smell – the
main difference is humans won’t eat something that smells bad; while
dogs are the opposite – the smellier the better. Dogs will gulp first and
ask questions later.
While humans many times won’t eat something that doesn’t look
appealing, let alone doesn’t smell good, dogs are more concerned with
smell, then taste. They frequently gobble down food before they have
time to chew it, let alone taste it. But that’s okay – it’s why when we clean
out our refrigerators our dogs think it’s time for treats. That container of
green, fuzzy stuff that’s been hiding at the back of the fridge for months
will seem like gourmet treats to your dog!
Understanding how your dog perceives things can explain some of his
puzzling behavior, such as why he’s ignoring you at the park, or barking
for no apparent reason. He’s not trying to irritate you – he’s just
responding to a different level of sensory perception than you are. Take a
moment to look around and try and figure out what’s triggering his
behavior before you get mad. Your dog could be trying to tell you
something!
Socialization
It is your responsibility to properly socialize your dog.
That’s so important a concept I’m going to repeat it. It’s up to you to properly
socialize your dog.
Socializing your dog doesn’t mean you take him out for tea and crumpets, and
teach him the proper way to smoke a cigar. Nor is socialization some fancy
psychological concept dreamed up by some doggie psychiatrist.
Socialization is simply your key to having a confident and well-adjusted dog that
reacts appropriately in any given social situation he might encounter. Giving your
dog the self-assurance to deal correctly with any social environment he finds
himself in is one of the most valuable and lasting lessons you can teach him. A
well-socialized dog will interact well with all types of people and situations, even
those he has never been in before. With appropriate social skills, your dog will
show little or no fear of most objects, people or other animals, and even if
startled, will recover quickly and won’t panic.
Let me give you an example.
Earlier this year, I was visiting Starbucks in Chagrin Falls, Ohio on a bright,
sunny day. P.T. and I were whiling away the time watching the water spill
endlessly over the 40-foot waterfall. (I suspect P.T. had a closer eye on the
ducks at the bottom of the falls!)
We weren’t the only ones enjoying the day, and the parking area outside the
coffee shop was lined with a gleaming row of Harley-Davidson choppers (a.k.a.
motorcycles).
I was enjoying my cup of “joe” when, without warning, we were greeted with a
long, loud snarl of engines. The Harley right behind P.T. roared to life as only a
Harley can!
Was P.T. afraid? Nope. He immediately turned to me for his cue. I simply said,
“Good boy, P.T., it’s okay” in a calm, reassuring voice, and he was fine. No
barking. No fear. No jumping around. But I’ll bet he was just as happy as I was
when the bike pulled away and the sound receded!
Why tell that story? Because, bottom line, a well-adjusted dog is one that is
comfortable in a variety of situations and surroundings. He may be excited in a
new setting, but not fearful. The key here is to create positive experiences as
you expose your dog to more and more new situations.
Socialization is best begun when your dog is a puppy – usually between the ages
of 3 and 14 weeks. Introduce your puppy to as many new and different situations
as possible – people, places, things, noises, smells; everything that inhabits our
world, but expose your dog to these things in a positive, non-threatening way.
It is also believed by some experts that the optimum time for socializing puppies
really only happens up until 16 weeks, and if you miss that window of opportunity
you may never be able to properly socialize your puppy. So don’t miss it!
The more positive experiences your dog has, the more active and alert his mind
will become, and the more open and accepting of new things. What you are
doing is introducing your puppy to the human world, and teaching him how to
cope with and behave well in that world, no matter what he encounters.
If you have an older dog that wasn’t properly socialized as a puppy, it’s not too
late! You can re-program that older dog to learn appropriate social skills by using
patience and consistent, positive reinforcement. It may take your older dog a
little longer to re-learn social skills, but it will be well worth it in the end
It’s also important to remember that socialization isn’t a one-time training

program, or a series of lessons that have a starting and ending point.
Socialization is an ongoing process that lasts a lifetime, because you should
always be introducing your dog to new situations and new environments. Just as
learning shouldn’t ever stop for you, it should also never stop for your dog.
That’s why I want to give you …
5 Basic Tips For Socializing Your Dog
1. Don’t drag your dog toward the object or person he’s afraid of.
Let your dog approach on his own. If you must – consider using his
favorite toy or treat to help him get over his fear. The more you force him
into situations he’s not comfortable in, the more fearful and apprehensive
he’ll act. Talk to him in a happy and calm tone of voice until he relaxes
enough to move forward of his own accord. If he doesn’t walk forward by
himself, wait for another day and another encounter to be encouraging.
2. Don’t baby a frightened dog
I know that sounds harsh, but you’re really only making things worse,
because you’re reinforcing bad behavior. For example, if your dog cowers
and whimpers and hides under your chair when you go to the vet’s office,
and you speak in a soothing tone of voice and say “There, there, it’s OK” –
you’ve just taught your dog that he’ll be praised and coddled for
whimpering and cowering and hiding under the chair. Instead, speak
happily and confidently when he comes out from under the chair –
demonstrating that he’ll be praised for being bold and self-assured.
3. Don’t pick up your puppy or small dog if he’s afraid
Again, don’t reinforce bad behavior. A little dog is going to be a little dog
no matter how old he gets – teach him to deal with the world at his eye-
level, not yours. The exception to this rule, of course, is that if your small
dog is about to be gobbled up as a snack by a larger and much more
aggressive dog – in which case a “pickup rescue” is in order!
4. Act and talk happily and confidently
Your dog will take his hint from you. If you’re nervous and apprehensive
in a given situation, your dog will be too. If you act like whatever you’re
doing or encountering is no big deal, that’s how your dog will see it as
well. (Remember the story of P.T. and the Harley.)
As I said in the section on learning to read your dog’s body language –

this is a two-way street: your dog has learned to read your body language
as well. He’ll be looking at you for important clues on how he should act.
Remember your position as Leader of the Pack – if you’re calm and
confident, he will be too. If you’re nervous and apprehensive – he will be
too. Leaders lead, followers follow. You lead, your dog follows.
5. Take your dog as many places as possible
The more positive experiences your dog has, the more confident and
accepting of new experiences he’ll be. If he’s afraid of going to the vet
because every time he goes to the vet he gets a shot, make it a point to
stop in at the vet’s office for a cookie from the staff and a hop on the
weight scale. Soon he’ll understand that a trip to the vet’s office doesn’t
necessarily mean he’ll receive a shot. The more social situations you take
your dog into, the less negative impact each will have on him.
It’s the fear of the unknown, or fear from a previous bad experience, that
keeps your dog in a state of apprehension. The more frequently he has to
experience those situations, the quicker the newness will wear off, and it will
become routine.
Think about it as taking a kid to Disneyland for the first time – they’re looking
around, trying to see everything at once, running here and there, so excited
they’re about to jump out of their skin. But after that same kid has been to
Disneyland 20 or 30 times, the newness wears off, and they’re ready for
something else. Your dog is the same way – it’s just that the entire world is
like Disneyland. Get him used to it and he’ll react calmly and confidently in
any situation.
20 Things You Should Introduce Your Dog To At A Young Age
1. The sounds of his world – from cars and trucks to
helicopters, sirens, doorbells, crowds, airplanes,

telephones – in short, anything that he may hear on a
regular or not-so-regular basis.
2. Children (how many and how young should be
determined by your dog’s size, breed and personality.)
3. People of all shapes and sizes and ethnicities and
appearances and voice levels.
4. Young puppies (only after your dog has had its full
course of shots.)
5. Older dogs (only after your dog has had his full course
of shots.)
6. Other animals he may encounter – from rabbits to
squirrels to horses and cows to birds and cats.
7. Household appliances like vacuum cleaners and
dishwashers and washing machines and mops and

brooms.
8. Yard and garden tools – power saws and leaf blowers
and lawn mowers.
9. Everyday items made unusual – the garbage can
standing upright one day and laying on its side the

next. The ironing board right-side up one day, upside
down the next.
10. Shopping carts and child care seats.
11. Beach balls, basketballs, footballs and Frisbees.
12. Cars and trucks, both parked and moving (take him for
a ride.)
13. Stairs and decks.
14. Places like the beach, hiking trails, city sidewalks.
15. Got to the airport and watch the planes land, or sit at
the train station and wait for the trains to pull in.
16. Your vet’s office, the dog groomer’s and the pet shop.
17. A friend’s house.
18. Outdoor sporting events or dog shows.
19. People in motion – i.e. bicyclists, joggers, rollerbladers,
skaters and people in wheelchairs or using canes.
20. Flea markets.
This list obviously isn’t all-inclusive – it’s a partial list meant to give you some
ideas and get you started in the right direction.
Remember, these excursions are meant to be positive encounters – for example,

if you’re introducing your dog to children for the first time, don’t let the kids yell or
scream at the dog, pull or tug on it in any way, or otherwise make it an
intimidating, frightening experience. Have the child sit down calmly and quietly,
and let your dog approach when he is ready. If necessary, use a treat to
encourage your dog to approach.
Important Note On Rewards
Throughout this book I’m going to be talking about rewarding your dog when he
does something you’ve asked, or successfully performed a task. There are a
variety of “rewards” that your dog will respond to, such as food treats, praise, a
favorite toy, playtime with you or petting.
Many times the best way to start training is by using a food treat or dog snack as
an immediate reward for good behavior, in addition to lavish praise. As your dog
becomes better trained and more responsive, decrease the amount of food
rewards and replace them with even more praise and attention. Soon, you’ll be
able to stop the food rewards almost entirely, and your dog will respond to praise
alone. (P.T. only receives a food treat at the end of one of our walks, never
during the walk itself anymore.) I switched him from treats to praise very early on
in his training, which proved to be amazingly easy!
Also keep in mind that socialization is not about forcing your dog to encounter as
many things as possible in the shortest space of time. Take things slowly – it’s
not necessary for them to discover cats and squirrels on the same day. Chasing
your dog around the house with the vacuum is not the way to get your dog over
his fear of vacuums! Take your time and use some common sense. If your dog
barks or tries to run away during an encounter, remove what he’s objecting to
and try again another day, until he loses his fear of that particular object.
Chapter 3: Puppy Behavior
Just as if you were preparing for the arrival of a new baby, the acquisition of a
new puppy requires some research and investigation into stages of development
and behavioral issues you may be facing.
Puppies are usually weaned at six or seven weeks of age, which is really too
young for the puppies to develop a complete set of social skills. The ideal age
for puppy weaning is no younger than 12 weeks. Up to that age, the puppies are
still learning important social skills from their mothers and littermates, like how far
to go in play wrestling and biting, essential tips on “how to be a dog,” and
learning about “who’s in charge.” Puppies also absorb valuable attitudes from
their mothers during this time, such as how to react to people.
Most dogs, depending on breed, are still puppies in both mind and body, up until
about two years of age. Generally speaking, the larger the breed, the slower
they mature. Notice I said generally speaking – I’ve seen Great Danes that were
mature at 8 months, and I’ve seen Chihuahuas that didn’t mature – ever! (Well,
that might be a slight exaggeration, but you get the idea!) Dogs are individuals.
That’s critical to keep in mind, because you’ll need to get to know your own dog’s
personality quirks and traits in order to not only be a more effective trainer, but to
bond more deeply with your pet as well.
Winning Your Puppy's Trust And Love
The first step to successful training, in my book, is winning your puppy’s trust and
love. Understanding the various stages your dog goes through, and what you
can reasonably expect from your puppy during these stages, are keys to winning
your puppy’s trust and love.
Remember, Alpha Dog issues apply to puppies, just as they apply to adult dogs.
As with children, you have to be the parent, the guardian and teacher to your
puppy. While it’s appropriate to shower your puppy with love and affection, don’t
make the mistake of thinking that’s the way to win your puppy’s love and respect.
Just because he’s a puppy doesn’t mean he’s not a dog! He still needs to know
you’re in charge – perhaps even more so than an adult dog, because a puppy
has just gone from a small, known world at his mother’s side, to a very large and
very scary world that you’ve taken him to!
You need to show your puppy that you’re the leader and fully capable of taking
care of him. You do this with gentle affection and loving discipline – never with
harsh treatment or bullying. As your puppy grows and matures, his self-
confidence will increase as his trust in you expands.
Linear Training
Before we get into the specific developmental stages of puppy growth, I want to
talk for a minute about the overall concept of training and socialization. We’ve
already gone over what socialization is, and how you can instill social skills in
your dog, but I also want to make the point that training and socialization is an
ongoing process that should be addressed in a logical and orderly fashion. I call
this linear training.
By linear training I mean you start with small, incremental training lessons on the
simpler subjects – such as house training or crate training, and then move on to
the slightly harder training – such as basic commands like sit and stay, and then
on to the more rigorous training such as agility or herding or competition training
of some sort.
Don’t start off expecting your puppy to be able to learn Frisbee competition at six
months old – start him off with basic commands and work your way up to harder
skills as he progresses. I can’t tell you the number of people I’ve talked to and
worked with that have completely unrealistic expectations of what their dog can
learn at what age – it’s a little like watching an overachieving parent force their
10-year-old child to take college-prep courses.
Linear training is important not only from an emotional and psychological

standpoint, but from a physical one as well. Puppies have very short attention
spans, and growing bones and developing muscles – pushing your puppy too
hard can result not only in psychological damage but physical harm. Stress on
joints that aren’t fully formed can cause a physical breakdown later in life – would
you want your eight-year-old son to play in the NFL at his age? No? Then don’t
push your puppy to excel in agility classes or strenuous competitions that can
shorten his lifespan and cause an undue amount of pain.
Puppy Developmental Stages
In order to give you an idea of why your puppy sometimes acts in a particular
manner, here are some general guidelines for the stages of puppy development:
(Please keep in mind that dogs are all individuals – these aren’t hard and fast
rules that apply to every dog on the face of the earth!)
• 0 – 2 weeks Newborn
o Most influenced by their mother.
o Born with senses of touch and taste.
• 2 – 4 weeks Transitional
o Most influenced by their mother and littermates.
o Eyes open, teeth appear, senses of hearing and smell develop.
o Beginning to stand, walk, wag and bark.

o By 4 or 5 weeks, sight is well-developed.
• 3 – 12 weeks – Socialization
o Need opportunities to meet other dogs and people.
o At 4 to 12 weeks they’re most influenced by their littermates and
people, as they learn to play, learn social structure and ranking,
and develop physical coordination.
o At 3 to 5 weeks they’re becoming aware of their surroundings,
people and relationships.
o At 5 to 7 weeks they develop curiosity and want to explore new
experiences. It’s important for them to have positive people
experiences during this time.
o At 8 to 10 weeks they learn fear, and may become alarmed at
normal objects and experiences.
o At 9 to 12 weeks they’re learning social skills and beginning to
focus on people. This is a perfect time to start their training.
• 3 – 6 months – Social Ranking

o Most influenced by their playmates, which now include those from
other species.
o Beginning to understand social ranking and alpha dog concept.
o Teething (with associated chewing).
o At about 4 months they go through another fear stage.
• 6 – 18 months – Adolescence
o Most influenced by humans.
o At 7 to 9 months they go through a second chewing phase.
o Heightened awareness of dominance issues and begin challenging
humans.
o If not spayed or neutered, beginnings of sexual behavior.
Now that we’ve got that general framework firmly in mind, let’s look at what you
can expect of your puppy at different stages as he grows and develops:
Pre-School
This is where your little guy begins his life-long habit

of learning new things. By properly instilling in him
right now the idea that learning is a fun and
completely natural thing for him to do, you’ll ensure
that your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted, well-
socialized adult. From the day you bring him home – usually from 8 to 12 weeks,
depending on where you get your puppy - you should start socializing him and
engage in a little “informal” training. Take him places with you, introduce him to a
few new situations and people, but remember this is a confidence-building time –
this is all new and exciting and scary to him. You’ve taken him out of his familiar
environment and are teaching him you’re the new leader of his pack, so take it
slow and easy.
This is a critical step in your puppy’s development. Remember, some experts

believe the optimum time for socializing puppies really only happens up until 16
weeks, and if you miss that opportunity you may never be able to properly
socialize your puppy.
So, for your sake and you puppy's don't miss this window. (For more information
on how to socialize your puppy, please look under “Socialization” in the previous
chapter.)
“Informal training” begins at this time too. Informal training simply means you
should begin teaching your pup simple things, like the meaning of the word “No!”
and “Come.” You’ll also begin potty training at this time, as well as where his bed
is, where his crate is if you’re using a crate, and what rooms in the house he’s
allowed in. Socialization should start from the first day – again, slow and easy,
but he should feel comfortable going places with you from about 8 weeks and up.
The Basics
At roughly 4-1/2 to 5 months of age, you should begin

teaching your puppy basic commands, such as come,
sit, stay, etc., and you should be well into teaching
him socialization skills. He should accompany you to
a wide variety of places, and have a good amount of
interaction with new experiences, people and other
animals. Also include things such as getting him used to grooming, general
handling and some free playtime. No strenuous physical activity such as hard-
driving Frisbee games or marathon training. Crate training can begin as soon as
you bring him home, as can socialization - but keep training lessons short and
sweet (in the 3 to 5 minute range) and remember to end on a positive note.
Elementary School
From about 6 months to about 12 months you can

continue reinforcing your dog’s understanding of his
basic commands – he should be able to “sit,” “stay,”
“down-stay,” “heel,” “drop it,” and “fetch” with relative
ease, and continue learning socialization skills. This
is an excellent time to imprint the “Leader of the Pack” mentality, especially since
it is just prior to your dog entering his adolescence, when he will be more apt to
challenge your leadership. By one year he should know all his basic commands,
have good self-control in public and be fully house-trained. That’s not to say he’s
fully mature – far from it! He’ll still have days when he acts like a goofball, and
you’ll wonder where he left his brain! Keep the strenuous exercise to a minimum
– by that I mean long walks or short jogs for conditioning are fine, but don’t spend
a lot of time where he’s having to make sharp leaps or jumps or sudden twists or
turns that can permanently damage bones and cartilage that is still in the
formative stages. Training sessions can be lengthened gradually to 20 - 30
minutes per session, once or twice a day.
Prep School
Okay, this guy is dozing off in class – it must be

because he worked so hard on his lessons today!
From age one year to two years, your dog should be
learning the more advanced commands – “off” (such
as don’t jump on grandma when she walks in the
door!) and he should be learning to respond at greater
distances to your commands. For example, if you’re at the park, and he’s off-
leash, he should be keeping you in sight and readily return to you when you tell
him to. You can begin training him more rigorously, adding more physical
exertion, but keep in mind his breed, his individual level of maturity and his
physical characteristics. Training sessions can be in the range of 20 – 30 minutes
once or twice a day.
College
After two years of age, your dog should know all his basic
commands, plus any advanced training or commands you
may have taught him and be fully socialized. You should
begin working with him – if you’re interested in furthering his
training – on more advanced commands and skills, such as
choosing toys by color, agility training, competitive training of
any sort, search and rescue, etc. Depending on breed, he
still may not have his full maturity, but his bones and physical structure should be
strong enough to withstand most training. He should deal well with distractions
and be attentive and responsive to you in public. Training sessions should still
be in the 20 – 30 minute range at any one time, but you can do sessions several
times a day if you choose. Shorter lessons at frequent intervals are better for
instilling those lessons – rather than a 2 or 3 hours session that will only serve to
burn both of you out. And be sure to schedule down time and playtime as well.
The Vaccination Controversy
Part of your socialization plan for your new pup includes introducing him to new
experiences and new companions such as other dogs you might encounter on
your walks or hikes. While this is critical to your puppy’s social development, you
also must use caution not to put your puppy’s health at risk by bringing him into
contact with dogs that may not have been vaccinated and are carrying highly
contagious, possibly deadly diseases.
Your puppy should start receiving vaccinations beginning at about 8 weeks of

age and continuing until he is 16 weeks old. Depending on the regulations where
you live, and your vet’s recommendations, the vaccinations should include
Distemper, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza, Leptospirosis, Rabies and Hepatitis.
Talk to your vet about when your puppy should receive these vaccinations, and if
they should be given in combination or spread out over multiple visits. Some
vets recommend the 5-in-1 shot at periodic times, other vets suggest there is a
growing body of evidence that imply the combination shots are too stressful for a
puppy’s system and can cause severe reactions, even death.
Vaccinations are currently at the heart of an ongoing argument in the veterinarian

community about the necessity for, or validity of, vaccinations and or booster
shots – so I’m going to give you both sides of the argument, and you can make
the decision for yourself and your pet
Opponents of vaccinations argue that the cure is almost as bad as the disease.
There is a growing argument against vaccinating children too. I’ve heard the
argument, “I don’t vaccinate my kids, so I’m not going to vaccinate my dogs,
either.”
Those who agree with vaccinations state that the diseases and conditions that
vaccinations were developed to protect against are far worse than the side-
effects of the vaccinations. Here the argument is, “I’d rather be safe than sorry
about my dog’s health, I’m going to have my dogs vaccinated until solid proof is
offered that it’s harmful or unnecessary for them.”
Those who don’t vaccinate say the best defense against disease is a healthy
immune system and a pet whose overall health is treated as a whole. Healthy
animals (like humans) aren’t as susceptible to disease and infections.
Although I know of no scientific studies that have been done on this issue, there
is a growing body of anecdotal reports suggesting health problems or conditions
are caused by over-vaccination of our pets – either by boosters given at too
frequent intervals, or by vaccinating against too many diseases at once. From
arthritis to autoimmune diseases to tumors at the injection sites, to a decline in
our pets’ overall health – more and more people are questioning the side effects
of vaccinations and the necessity for them.
What follows is a quote from “Kirk’s Current Veterinary Therapy XI (Small animal
practice), pg. 205, 1992:
“…Annual Vaccination - A practice that was started many years ago and
that lacks scientific validity or verification is annual revaccinations. Almost
without exception there is no immunologic requirement for annual
revaccination. Immunity to viruses persists for years or for the life of the
animal. Successful vaccination to most bacterial pathogens produces an
immunologic memory that remains for years, allowing an animal to
develop a protective anamnestic (secondary) response when exposed to
virulent organisms. Only the immune response to toxins requires boosters
(e.g.: tetanus in humans), and no toxin vaccines are currently used for
dogs or cats.
Furthermore, revaccination with most viral vaccines fails to stimulate an

anamnestic (secondary) response as a result of interference by existing
antibody (similar to maternal antibody interference). The practice of annual
vaccination in our opinion should be considered of questionable efficacy
unless it is used as a mechanism to provide an annual physical
examination or is required by law (i.e.: rabies vaccinations in some
states).“
The authors of this work are Tom R. Phillips, DVM, Ph.D., Associate Member,
Scripps Research Institute, and Ronald Schultz, Ph.D., Professor and Chair,
Department of Pathobiological Sciences, School of Veterinary Medicine,
University of Wisconsin. I’ve listed their credentials and affiliations to show you
that this opinion carries some weight.
Dogs immune systems are fully mature at 6 months. If they are given a modified
live virus vaccine after 6 months of age, it will produce an immunity that is good
for the life of the dog (for example, canine distemper, parvo, etc.) A booster shot
a year later has little or no effect in terms of additional protection, and indeed can
subject your dog to the risk of allergic reactions.
The other type of vaccination is by using a “killed” virus. There is also a big
debate in the veterinary literature as to the relative merits and safety of killed
versus modified live vaccines Most of the single and combination canine
vaccines utilized by veterinarians today are of modified live virus (MLV) origin.
This is attributed to the fact that modified live vaccines are cheaper and easier to
produce, and are believed to have a more sustained and effective protection.
Killed (or "inactivated") vaccines, containing antigen from dead virus, frequently
have additives included that encourage a stronger immune response.
It’s very important to note that I’m discussing the annual booster shots at this
point – not the basic vaccinations.
If you are going to vaccinate, basic vaccinations for diseases such as distemper
and parvo should start no sooner than 8 weeks of age, and at 3-4 week intervals
up until 16 weeks of age. Another vaccination is usually given at about 1 year
and 4 months. Additional vaccinations may be recommended by your vet based
on local issues or state law, such as rabies. Beware of vaccinations that
combine multiple components in the same shot – typically they compete with
each other, resulting in less immunity for each individual disease as well as
increasing the risk of a reaction.
What all this boils down to is this: you have to make the decision for yourself –
and your dog. My personal opinion is just that – my personal opinion. I have my
dogs vaccinated against the basic diseases on a schedule recommended by my
vet – because I know I’d feel horrible if my dog died from a disease that I could
have prevented him from getting. But I don’t do annual re-vaccinations, or
booster shots.
Here is a general guideline for puppy vaccinations, but check with your vet for his
or her specific recommendations:
6 weeks
• Have a thorough exam for overall health.
• Vaccinate for Distemper, Parainfluenza and Hepatitis – no Parvo.
7-1/2 weeks
• Vaccinate for Parvo only (killed vaccine.)
10 weeks
• Second Parvo vaccination (killed vaccine.)
12 weeks
• Thorough exam.
• Vaccinate for Distemper, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza and Leptospirosis.
16 weeks
• Vaccinate for Distemper, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, Leptospirosis and
Parvo.
Because regulations about Rabies vaccinations vary widely from state to state
you’ll need to check with your vet about the laws in your area. For example, laws
in New York City say that all pets over the age of three months must be
vaccinated against rabies. All rabies vaccines, regardless of age first given, are
followed by a second vaccination a year later, plus booster shots every three
years.
At any rate, until your puppy reaches 4 months of age you should limit his contact
with other dogs, unless you know that they are already vaccinated.
5 Tips For Choosing A Good Vet
And as long we’re on the subject of veterinarians and vet issues, let’s talk for a
moment on choosing a vet for your dog. If you haven’t already found one, or
worked with one in the past, you need to find a vet. Pick one you feel comfortable
with, and who answers your questions in full, completely and gives you answers
you can understand. You don’t need a vet who talks down to you, or acts like
you’re too dumb to understand what they’re saying!
Find a vet, if possible, who specializes in small animals (as opposed to one who
treats large and small – like horses, cows, cats and dogs.) Your community may
only have vets that do a little bit of everything – and there’s nothing wrong with
that, if that’s all that’s available, but I’ll remind you – you usually go to a specialist
for your health issues, don’t you?
If you’re new in the community, or haven’t needed a vet before – word of mouth
is a great way to start looking for a new vet. Ask everybody you can get your
hands on – co-workers, friends with pets, local humane societies or shelters.
Ask questions: are they happy with their vet? Do they like the way they’re
treated when they take their dogs in?
If your dog is a particular breed, check with the local or state breed associations
to find out who they use, or ask local breeders. This can be especially useful if
you buy a puppy from a local breeder, because the vet will have seen your puppy
and know at least some of his history.
You may want a holistic vet. Go to www.ahvma.org and check out their referral
directory. Or contact them via phone at (410) 569-0795
You may also be interested in a veterinarian who has been trained in

acupuncture through the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society. Log onto
their website at www.ivas.org or call 970-266-0666.
Once you have a referral from someone you trust, here are some questions to
ask:
1. What services does the vet offer? Is it a one-doctor office, or a multi-

doctor practice? As vets try to streamline services many are
consolidating practices and forming partnerships and group practices.
There’s nothing wrong with this – just be aware that you may not always
see the same vet. And find out if they offer 24 hour emergency services,
or if he or she is affiliated with someone in the area who does. Like
everything else in life, illness or accidents don’t always happen between
8:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday.
2. Does the vet offer a full surgery suite with on-site lab work? X-rays?
Ultrasound? If the vet has to send all lab tests to an outside agency to be
processed, you may be getting popped with additional charges because
those tests aren’t being performed or processed in-house.
3. Get a fee schedule. Cost is usually one of the biggest considerations for
dog owners, and it should be lowest on the list of importance, at least in
my mind. Not because cost isn’t important – of course it is, but - if you
have a vet that you’re happy with – who gives your dog the best care you
can possibly find in your area – does paying a little extra for that care
really matter in the long run?
4. Check out the physical characteristics of the facility: is it clean, or

does it smell? Are the ads or magazines in the waiting room current?
(That may not sound important, but if the staff and doctors aren’t keeping
up-to-date on the latest and greatest information, this may not be the
place you want to bring your dog.)
5. Communication – by that I mean how well does your vet communicate

with you? Will he or she explain the condition or illness in terms that you
can easily understand, or do they try to confuse you with high-tech or
medical jargon? A good vet will go over treatment options with you,
explain necessary tests, review x-rays or test results, give complete and
clear instructions for home care or further testing requirements, etc.
Take your time to do a complete and thorough evaluation before choosing a new
vet. Your dog’s life literally depends on what choice you make.
6 Tips To Help Socialize Your Puppy
As explained in Chapter 2, socialization is the second most important thing you

can do for your puppy, right after feeding him!
A properly socialized puppy is critical to having a well-trained adult dog. Dogs

that are well-socialized are happier, more secure and more confident – thus
they’re more open to new experiences and will develop into a companion that is
a joy to have around.
As we saw in the stages of puppy development, from 3 – 12 weeks is the most

critical time in developing your puppy’s social skills. It is during this time that
your puppy’s attitudes about learning and interacting with other people, pets and
environments will be most heavily influenced; a puppy with insufficient exposure
to new experiences and interactions may develop a fearful attitude demonstrated
by timidity or aggression.
So how can you help your puppy develop appropriate social skills?
1. Early Handling
Puppies who are introduced to humans right from birth are much more
likely to develop into adult dogs that are more confident, faster maturing
and better socialized than those who have limited interaction with people.
Try to buy your puppy from a breeder or home that allows the puppies to
remain with their mother until 10 – 12 weeks of age, and that raises the
puppies in an atmosphere where they’re picked up and petted and
handled extensively from birth.
When you bring your new puppy home, you should continue this pattern –
providing your puppy with plenty of interaction with the family, taking him
to the vet on a regular basis, beginning simple, age-appropriate obedience
training and showering him with plenty of love and attention.
Remember that you’ve removed a puppy from an environment that he

knew and was familiar with, to a place he has to learn about from scratch.
By providing lots of positive reinforcement and encouragement, you can
make his transition much easier and build his confidence in the process.
In some instances you may not know how much interaction your puppy
had during this critical time; for example if you adopt a puppy from a
shelter. It doesn’t matter – you can begin socialization as soon as you get
your puppy home by that same method of giving him positive support and
encouragement.
2. Day Trippin’
By that I mean take your puppy out to experience new environments at

least once or twice a week. Take him to the Laundromat; stand outside
the video store and have strangers give him treats while you hold him;
take him to the beach and the park.
Make a conscious effort to include things that aren’t a part of his regular
environment. For example, if you don’t have kids in your household, have
a friend who does have children bring one or two of them over periodically
and introduce them in a quiet, comfortable setting. If you live in the city,
take a trip to the country. If you live in the country, take your puppy to the
city so he can experience asphalt, city traffic and skyscrapers.
Take your time and be patient with your puppy – don’t force him to
approach things that obviously scare him. Let him move toward the item
or person at his own speed, don’t drag him or compel him to investigate
something or someone until he’s ready.
When he does approach on his own, praise him lavishly and give him a
reward for his bravery.
3. Make His New Home A Welcoming Place
Bringing a puppy into your home is a traumatic experience for him –

you’ve uprooted him from everything thing he’s known before and dumped
him in a place where he has no friends and no allies and doesn’t yet know
what the boundaries of behavior are.
The first few days, expect your puppy to be somewhat fearful and
apprehensive. Introduce him to his new world gradually – it’s not
necessary for him to meet all the members of the family at once. This is
especially true if you have a large family with kids and other pets and a
great deal of activity going on all the time. Show him where his den is and
allow him to retreat there until he feels comfortable enough to join the rest
of the family. Put a large stuffed animal in his den (if there’s enough
room) for company. Some people place a clock in a den with a new
puppy – the ticking of the clock is supposed to simulate a heartbeat, but I
don’t recommend that, since your puppy may chew on it and break off
small pieces he could choke on.
Add toys for him to play with. Chew toys that will help with teething, toys
that squeak and make noise, rope toys: toys that will keep him entertained
and his mind active and involved. Many pet stores will allow you to bring
your dog with you when shopping – call ahead to make sure your local
store allows this, then take your puppy shopping and let him pick out his
own toys!
4. Pointers About Toys
Don’t give your puppy old shoes, socks or discarded articles of clothing.
Why? Because your puppy won’t know the difference between an old pair
of tennis shoes you bought at K-Mart and your brand-new $150 pair of
Nikes. And trust me – he’ll pick the new Nikes to chew on!
There are a wide variety of toys to choose from. Look for toys that are
• Durable (designed with puppies in mind – they should be tough

enough to withstand constant abuse.)
• Safe (beware of toys with bells or buttons, which can be chewed off
in a hurry and swallowed.)
• Fun (what’s the point if it’s not fun for your puppy?)
• Easy to clean (your puppy will slobber and chew his toys to bits.
Try to find toys that will be easy for you to clean.)
5. Take Your Puppy For Rides In The Car
Sooner or later your puppy will have to learn to ride in your car. Trips to
the vet, trips to the beach or the park; wherever you go, you’ll want your
puppy to feel comfortable riding in the car. You don’t want to make all of
his initial car rides to the vet, or else he might develop an aversion to car
trips because he’ll associate them with unpleasant activities like a shot.
Make car rides fun. Take along a favorite toy, and play with him in the
back seat for a few minutes. Make the first trips short – a drive around the
block or down the street, then back home. Give him a reward at the end
of the ride, and play with him again for a few minutes, so he begins to
associate car rides with fun and games.
Important note: If possible, avoid going for a car ride soon after your
puppy has eaten, and don’t give treats until the ride is over. Unless, of
course, you have Teflon seats and carpets in your car!
Many dogs feel more comfortable riding in a car inside a crate. If you
don’t use a crate with your puppy, use a harness and leash, and clip the
leash to one of your seatbelts to prevent your dog from becoming airborne
in the event of an accident.
6. Begin Training Early
The earlier you begin your puppy’s obedience training, the faster he’ll
acquire social skills because he’ll be able to accompany you to more
locations and encounter more situations that will enable him to develop
those skills. While some early training can be started as soon as you
bring your puppy home (such as teaching him the word “No!”), the
optimum time to begin obedience training is somewhere around 9 to 12
weeks of age.
Puppy-Proof Your Home
Instead of constantly reprimanding a young puppy for getting into things, puppy-
proof any areas of the house to which your puppy will be given access (in much
the same way you would child-proof an area for a baby.)
Take a look around and see what might be dangerous for your puppy or might
entice him into a bad situation. Before bringing your puppy home, do a safety
check of each room of your house, your basement, garage and yard. Look for
things that are dangerous, poisonous or things you just don’t want your puppy
getting into.
In The House
Watch for things that your dog might grab or chew on. Things like . . .
• cleaning rags or sponges

• drapery cords
• window blinds
• electric cords
• small items a dog could swallow
• stacks of papers or magazines
• pillows
• toys
• knick knacks
• anything of value to you
• anything dangerous to your dog
Try to think like a dog. What might smell interesting or catch your eye as
something that might be fun to play with?
Use Bitter Apple spray to keep your dog from biting immovable items like
furniture and woodwork, like door frames or legs on furniture. This spray is
safe for dogs and because they don’t like the taste, they will refrain from
chewing on items that are sprayed.
Put baby gates up on stairwells and close the doors to any room you don’t
want your puppy to go into, including closet doors and cabinets. It’s also
important to ensure that medicines, cleaning supplies, soaps, solvents,
cosmetics, and other harmful chemicals are put out of reach. This should
include any human food or plants that are poisonous to dogs, such as
chocolate, English ivy and tiger lilies.
In The Yard
If you have a fence, check it thoroughly. Are there any . . .
• Gaps
• Loose boards
• Places where your puppy could dig its way out?
• Is there anything close to the fence that your puppy could use to jump
over the fence, like a dog house or pile of wood?
• What about gate latches? Are they secure? Could your puppy possibly
open the latch?
• Could someone else enter your yard and let your puppy out?
• Do you have an electric fence - what happens if the power fails?
Remember electric fences don’t keep other people and animals out of
your yard. What hazards, if any, could this lead to?
If you have flower beds or trees, you should consider fencing them off so that
your dog can’t get to them. Also, check your yard for any poisonous plants
like bulb flowers, hemlock, boxwood, sage, poison ivy, etc.
In The Garage
In your garage, check for things like:
• automotive compounds
• paint
• nails
• pesticides
• fertilizers
• antifreeze: Note: just a teaspoon of spilled anti-freeze can be deadly

to your puppy
Outside Exercise
Take your puppy outside and play with him. Puppies thrive on physical activity –
not only does it help develop strong bones, it’s crucial for developing coordination
and muscle strength. Not to mention burning off that excess puppy energy.
Remember to limit his contact with other dogs until he’s gone through his entire
vaccination schedule, but don’t deprive him of physical activity until that’s been
completed. Even taking him for walks or short jogs or runs in the park will help
with both socialization and physical development.
Obedience Training For Your Puppy
The sooner you begin obedience training the better. Obviously, you can’t really
start obedience training with a 3 week old puppy (even if you could bring one
home at that age, which you shouldn’t!) but you can start informal training with
your puppy as soon as you bring him home, such as teaching him the meaning of
“No!” and beginning housebreaking training.
Even training your puppy for 5 – 10 minutes per day will make a big difference in
the social skills and adaptability of your puppy. Keep in mind that puppies have
very short attention spans, so keep your lessons short and fun. How short an
attention span? That depends on the age of the puppy, his breed and how
mature your individual puppy is – but a good rule of thumb is to keep the training
sessions within that 5 -10 minute range, at least early on.
Disciplining
Any successful training program must include some sort of discipline. Having
said that let me say this: don’t ever hit your puppy. Let me repeat that so
there’s no mistake. Don’t ever hit your puppy!
In order to apply discipline for an inappropriate act, you must
1. Catch your puppy in the act of misbehaving, or
2. Take steps to avoid the misbehavior in the first place.
If you walk into the living room and find your puppy squatting to piddle on the
carpet, you should tell him “No!” in a loud and sharp tone of voice, then walk
over, pick him up and take him outside. (Or leash him up and take him outside.)
Either way, your puppy can tell he’s done something you don’t want him to do.
There is absolutely no need to hit your puppy, just because he’s doing what
comes naturally to him.
And, truth be told, if you had been paying attention to your puppy, you would
have recognized the signals he was using to tell you he needed to go outside.
So the fault for this particular situation needs to be laid at your door, not your
puppy’s. You could have avoided the situation in the first place by being more
attuned to your puppy’s needs.
We’ve already talked about some of the tips and techniques you should be using
to properly acclimate and socialize your puppy (or adult dog) to your home – if
he’s misbehaving, go back to the list of tips and techniques to review what you
should be doing, and retrace your steps with your puppy until he more clearly
learns the lesson you want him to remember.
Chapter 4: Crate Training
Contrary to public opinion, crate training your dog is not cruel and unusual
punishment! In fact, once you’ve crate trained your dog, you may never go back
to any other type of training method.
What’s So Great About Crates?
Well, besides being a really effective housetraining tool, crate training can help
with things like separation anxiety, destructive behavior, protection from
potentially dangerous household items like electrical wires or poisons and they
can serve as a portable doggie house that can be moved around from room to
room as needed. (This can also help when you’re traveling with your dog.)
But before I start with all that, I need to make two things perfectly clear:
1. A crate is not intended as a place to lock up your dog and forget about
him for extended periods of time. Your dog should only be confined to
a crate when you’re at home! (This also means you should not
confine your dog to a crate when you’re not home!)
2. A crate should never be used to punish your dog!
In your dog’s mind, crates can take the place of their “den” in the wild. Crates
are generally a fairly small, enclosed snuggly-kind of place that, properly
presented, will make your dog feel safe and protected. Most dogs that are
introduced to crates at a young age will usually use their crate as their preferred
place to “hang out” since it represents safety and security. Once the training
period is over, you can remove the door of the crate, and your dog will view the
crate as their safe haven den that they can retreat to when they need privacy,
sleep or refuge.
The purpose of a crate is not to provide a place for long-term confinement of your
dog – it’s not a jail. Long-term confinement of your dog while you’re away from
home is for the purpose of restricting housebreaking accidents to a small area.
For example, with a new puppy, you may restrict him to the garage while you’re
at work during the day – the garage serves as the place of “long-term
confinement.” The crate, with open door, may well be in the garage, but your
puppy is not confined to the crate while you are out.
A crate’s purpose, on the other hand, is to serve as a place where you can
temporarily confine your dog, under your close supervision and for very short
periods of time only for training purposes. Or, especially when your dog is a
puppy, you may want him to sleep in his crate to lessen the chance that he’ll
have an accident in the middle of the night.
That’s an important distinction and one you need to understand clearly.
Crates As Housetraining Tools
Crates are an effective tool when used to housetrain your dog, because it takes
advantage of your dog’s natural instinct to not soil his own den. When you
confine your dog to a crate, it strongly inhibits his willingness to go potty in his
sleeping area. Conversely, if he hasn’t gone before you put him in his crate, he’ll
need to go as soon as he’s taken out – at a time of your convenience, and when
you can be there to praise and reward him for going in his designated potty area.
Obviously, the downside of that scenario is you must not confine him for
extended periods of time (especially puppies), or he’ll be unable to hold it and will
go inside his crate. If that happens, the housetraining process will take longer to
accomplish, because your dog is now confused as to where he’s supposed to go.
Your dog should only be confined to a crate when you’re at home, and you
should take him out of his crate and take him to his potty area at least once an
hour to avoid accidents. Put him on his leash, and take him outside, where you
should allow 3 – 5 minutes for a potty break. If he doesn’t go during that time,
simply return him to the crate and try again in 30 - 45 minutes. If he does go
during that time, immediately reward him with praise and petting and treats to let
him know that’s the behavior you want from him when you take him outside.
He’ll soon come to understand that when he’s taken out of the crate, it means a
potty break, praise and rewards.
Note: Puppies purchased in pet stores, or puppies that were kept solely
in small cages or other similar enclosures at a young age (between
approximately 7 and 16 weeks of age), may be considerably harder to
house train using the crate training method, because they were forced to
go in their “den” during this formative stage of development. This is the
time when most puppies are learning to go outside their sleeping area.
Confining them when they’ve soiled their bedding retards the house
training process, making it more difficult to house train them. It can be
done, but it will require more patience. You’ll need to take your dog out of
the crate on a more frequent schedule, such as every 30 minutes, and
make a big fuss over him when he goes, but be warned that he’ll probably
have more accidents that a dog that hasn’t had this experience.
Once your dog goes potty outside, bring him back inside and let him run around
the house for a while (30 – 45 minutes or so.) That way, he’ll begin to realize
that by going outside and not in his den or the house, one of his rewards will be
some free time in the house with you.
Make sure you supervise him during this time so there are no accidents. Pet
him, play with him; you can even include some short training sessions such as
not getting on the furniture or working with him on what rooms he’s allowed in,
but in general you want him to understand that once he goes outside, he can
come back in and enjoy spending time with you outside of his crate.
3 Keys To Choosing The Right Crate
Your dog’s crate is his home, or more accurately, his bedroom. Dogs are den
animals – meaning most dogs are completely comfortable in small, confined
spaces, as long as they’re not trapped or locked in there indefinitely.
When using crate training in your home, you’re trying to teach your dog that his
crate is his den – you want it to be a place of rest and relaxation for him, a refuge
where he can go hide when the world gets to be too much – or the cat is
antagonizing him. (Don’t laugh – it happens!)
So how do you choose the right crate for your dog? There are three important
points to remember.
1. Size Of The Crate
This can be a little tricky, because you need to buy a crate that will
accommodate your dog when he is full-grown. If you adopt or buy your
dog as a puppy, your initial thought may be to get a smaller crate so he’ll
feel cozier. You’re much better off buying a crate that he can grow into.
The crate should be large enough for your dog – when full grown – to
stand up easily without hunching over, turn around in without difficulty, and
be able to lie down and stretch out comfortably.
There are literally hundreds, if not thousands, of sizes and styles of crates
to choose from – I can’t possibly cover all of them in this book, but I can
give you a few things to look for.
Choose a crate that your dog will feel comfortable in. What does that
mean? It means a Chihuahua doesn’t need a crate the size of Montana!
But it also means that you need to research the size of your dog when
he’s full-grown so you get a crate that will be large enough for him. The
alternative is to purchase two crates: one that will fit your dog as a puppy,
and another for when he’s full grown. And then maybe an in-between size
. . . you see, doing it that way could get expensive! There are also crates
that have removable dividers that can be taken out as your puppy grows.
Depending on style, crates will typically range in cost from $35 to $200.
You can find suppliers on-line, at your local pet store; sometimes even
your vet’s office will carry a line of crates.
Important Note: I don’t recommend you buy a used crate. Why?

Because it was inhabited by another dog, and will not only have that dog’s
scent on it, but you don’t know what that dog did in that used crate. For
example, if the crate was used to housetrain the dog, and he had an
accident in it, the smell of that accident will remain, and possibly
encourage your dog to try covering up the scent of the other dog by
peeing in the crate. (You know how dogs are about things like that!) So
avoid the trouble, and just buy a new crate.
It’s also important to consider your dog’s comfort from another point of
view: air circulation. Look for a crate that has openings for ventilation on
the sides to allow for air movement within the crate. Remember, your
puppy is wearing a fur coat, and while you want him to feel cozy in his
den, you don’t want him to overheat.
And because this crate is going to be his bedroom, and he’ll be staying
there for long periods of time, you need to make it comfortable for him.
Don’t forget to leave room for bedding of some sort – either a blanket or a
dog pad or some towels – something to make it a place that he’ll want to
go and sleep. Also leave room for his favorite toy (or two!) You want him
to be able to entertain himself while he’s in his “room.”
Especially if you have a large-breed dog, such as a German Shepherd or

a Great Dane, you need to plan carefully where you’re going to locate the
crate in your house. Normally I recommend that you move the crate with
you from room to room when you’re first training your puppy to accept the
crate as his den – that way he doesn’t feel alone or neglected when you
disappear into another room. But if you have a very large crate for a very
large dog – this may be problematic. Your best solution in that case is to
locate the crate in a centrally located area of the house so your dog can
see you as you move from around the house.
2. Design
The next consideration for choosing the right crate is the design. There
are literally hundreds, if not thousands, of crate designs on the market,
from stylish pieces of furniture to simple wire cages, and everything in
between. The design you choose will be a matter of personal preference
and your budget, but here are a few tips.
Choose a sturdy crate. It doesn’t matter if it’s heavy-duty plastic or

reinforced fiberglass or stainless steel – it needs to be able to withstand
your dog flopping around inside, or being dragged from room to room, or
rolling around and playing with his favorite toy. Any welds (in the case of
metal cages) or joints should be smooth, with no sharp edges that can cut
or scrape.
Hardware (front grill or side windows) needs to be good quality – with a

secure locking mechanism. Trust me on this one – you don’t need your
puppy turning into an escape artist because you have a crate with a cheap
lock!
Style can range from completely open-air, such as a wire cage, to mostly
enclosed such as the plastic or fiberglass styles. A couple of things to
remember: the more enclosed the crate is the less air circulation inside. In
areas of the country with high heat or humidity, this can be a critical issue
– if your dog can’t get a decent amount of air circulation, you could be
dealing with a heat exhaustion or heat stroke condition. This is particularly
important if you relocate your dog’s crate outdoors during the day. Don’t
ever put it in full sun and then lock your dog inside and go away.
Another thing to consider is versatility. Some crates can be used for other
things, such as transporting your dog in the back of your car or truck, or
even shipping them via an airline. If you’re going to be taking your dog on
frequent trips, you may want to consider a crate style that has multiple
uses.
The two basic styles of crates I recommend are:
The basic carrier-style of crate, with a carrying handle and a water dish
clipped to the door. This style serves as a multi-purpose crate – you can
also use it as a carrier when you’re taking your puppy on a trip to the vet’s
or the park or an overnight stay – sort of like a home away from home for
your pup. If you take your puppy traveling and you stay in a motel that
allows pets, they’ll likely require you to crate your dog. This is one of the
easiest ways to do it.
In addition, this style is typically easy to clean and maintain. With few
working parts (essentially the latch and the hinges on the door) there’s
little to break. The size seen here is for a small to medium-sized dog, but
they come in a wide variety of sizes and styles: from Chihuahua to Great
Danes!
The other style I recommend is the open-air “cage” style with a solid
bottom, such as this one.
Some of these crates are collapsible, meaning you can fold them for
traveling, which is a great feature if you do a lot of traveling with your dog,
and want to take his “house” along with you.
This style allows maximum air circulation for your dog with its completely
open sided design, but some dogs would rather have the more enclosed
“den” style design. Make sure you get a crate with a solid metal bottom
piece so your dog isn’t walking on uncomfortable metal bars that can
make his paws sore.
There are also water cups that can be clipped onto this style, as well as
water bottles that can be hung from the outside with a mouthpiece
threaded through the sides of the crate (like a rabbit or hamster drinking
bottle.)
3. Remember The Crate Is Your Dog’s Den
Your dog needs to have a sense of security and safety in his crate. It
should be a place of refuge, where he can go to sleep or just hang out, or
to get away from the kids for a while.
In order for him to feel that, you have to remember that this is his den, his
bedroom, his retreat. Respect him while he’s in there – don’t antagonize
him or tease him through the door or let the kids bother him – while he’s in
his crate he’s “off limits.” He should be able to go inside his crate on his
own and not be disturbed by whatever else is going on in the house.
Now, that’s not to say you should ignore him while he’s in the crate – by all
means talk to him as you move from room to room so he doesn’t feel like
he’s been abandoned. Or you can even more the crate with you to each
room if he’s going through a period of real insecurity.
But the overall feeling you’re trying to cultivate with him is that his crate is
his – it’s safe, it’s secure and that’s where he needs to go when he wants
to hole up for the night.
The final point I want you to remember is that once your dog is crate
trained there is no need to lock him up inside. Leave the door open when
you’re in the house so he can come and go freely. A crate is not to be
used for punishment. Ever.
Location Of Crate
Where do you put your puppy’s crate now that you have one? Since you’re
going to be using the crate for temporary confinement when you’re home, the
best place to start is in the same room you’re in while you’re home, or next to the
chair or couch where you’ll be sitting, or even in the kitchen if your preparing a
meal. Having you in sight will lessen your puppy’s feeling of isolation or
loneliness until he gets used to being in the crate and starts feeling like it’s his
den.
Keep the crate out of a high traffic area such as a hallway, and out of direct
drafts, or directly in the sun, or near a heater vent.
3 Things You Need To Put In Your Puppy’s Crate
Keep in mind you can’t stuff too many things in the crate or there won’t be room
for your puppy! There are really only three things you need in the crate:
1. Bedding – your dog needs some sort of bedding inside the crate for
comfort. A towel or a small blanket do well, or even a mat or pad
specifically designed for dog crates. It should cover the bottom of the
crate, but be aware that some dogs are more comfortable laying on a
hard, flat surface, and will push the bedding aside.
2. Toys – Since your dog will only be in the crate for small periods of time,
you won’t need a lot of toys, but you will need something to keep him
entertained. A chew toy, perhaps, or a rope toy – something he can play
with on his own; pick one of his favorites, or let him choose one!
3. Water – If your puppy will be confined for more than two hours, make sure
he has fresh water available.
3 Keys To Introducing Your Puppy To The Crate
You want your puppy to have positive associations with his crate, which is why
you NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment. When you first introduce
your puppy to his new home:
1. Leave the door of the crate open, and periodically during the day place
doggie treats inside the crate. Let your puppy see you do this, and
encourage him to enter the cage and find the treats. Don’t try to force,
push, pull or otherwise manhandle the puppy into his crate. Let him
enter on his own. (The one exception to this rule is when you go to bed at
night, and want to put the puppy in his cage. You may need some gentle
encouragement, but it may also work with placing a treat inside.)
2. Every time he enters the crate voluntarily pet and praise him lavishly.
3. Turn entering the crate into a game. Without your puppy seeing you, put
a doggie treat into the crate. Then ask your puppy: “Where’s your treat?
It’s in your “house” or “room” or “crate.” (Use whatever word you want
your puppy to associate with his crate.) The first few times you’ll have to
help him find it, then he should start learning on his own what both “treat”
and “house” (or whatever word you use) mean. After he’s learned the
word for his crate, you’ll be able to tell him “go to your house (or room)”
and he will!
Crating Duration Guidelines
Please keep in mind that puppies, in particular, have very little control over their
bowels and bladders. When starting crate training, you need to watch the clock
to make sure your puppy has enough opportunities to go potty outside his crate.
For the best results, make sure your puppy has taken a potty break outside
before you place him in his crate.
And always remove your puppy’s or dog’s collar before placing him in his crate.
Even flat buckled collars can sometimes get caught in the windows or doors of
the crate and create a strangling hazard. If you’re traveling with your dog and
want to leave the collar on because it contains his identification tags, make sure
you’re using a “break-away” collar that will release if it becomes entangled in the
crate.
Dog’s Age Maximum Time In Crate During Day
9-10 Weeks Approx. 30-60 minutes

11-14 Weeks Approx. 1-3 hours
15-16 Weeks Approx. 3-4 hours
17 + Weeks Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)
*NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be

crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!) And if
properly house-trained, you shouldn’t have to crate your dog at all.
Crate Accidents Or House Accidents
If your puppy does have an accident in the crate, or in your house – do not
discipline him. All that usually means is that you weren’t vigilant enough in
supervising your puppy or dog. Just clean up the mess, using a commercial
cleaner designed for this – typically one that has a pet odor neutralizer such as
Nature’s Miracle or Nilodor. Don’t use any ammonia-based products since their
odor smells like urine, and may encourage your dog to go potty in the same
place.
Alternative Method Of Confining Your Puppy
If you’re going to be away from home for a longer period of time than is
recommended for confining your puppy in a crate, try this alternative method of
confining him:
Set aside an area of your home that has an easy-to-clean floor and that you can
block off access to by using a baby gate. (Such as a bathroom, part of the
garage or a corner of your kitchen.) Put your puppy’s crate in the area, with his
food and water bowls and some toys to occupy him, and spread clean
newspaper on the floor. He can then be safely left in this area until you get
home.
Chapter 5: House Training A

Puppy
When I talk about “house training,” I’m talking about training your puppy to live in
your house. This includes things like toilet training, crate training, teaching your
dog not to jump up on furniture, chew your shoes, or generally destroy your
house! The goal is not to turn your house into a dog house – but to train your
dog how to act in your world!
This chapter deals specifically with how to house train a puppy; the following
chapter will discuss how to house train an adult dog.
Setting Realistic Goals
The single most important factor to remember when housetraining your puppy is
patience. Just like people babies, your puppy cannot physically control his
bladder and bowels when he’s a little guy; he can’t “hold it” with any degree of
success until he’s about 12 weeks of age. And, it may take as long as 6-8
months before he develops reliable control!
Your mission is to keep an eagle-eye on your puppy and work with him every day
on teaching him when and where he can go. All that takes patience.
A typical puppy will have to go as much as 8 – 12 times per day! Every day.
Even with crate training, paper training or any other method discussed here or
anywhere else – a realistic expectation for your puppy to be house trained is

about 6 months of age.
That doesn’t mean you’re not working with him each day; that doesn’t mean he
won’t be crate trained within the first week or two; that doesn’t mean some
puppies learn very quickly and once they become crate trained they never have
another accident in the house.
What is does mean is that a typical puppy will be house trained within 6-8
months. Puppies are babies – some learn faster than others. (As an example,
P.T. took 8 months; not because he didn’t get it, but because he didn’t develop
full bladder and bowel control until then.)
What To Expect During The House Training Process
Expect your puppy to have accidents. That’s the “bottom line.” (A little “potty”
humor, there!) Because puppies have such poor bladder and bowel control
when they’re little, despite your best efforts, there will probably be times when
your puppy goes in the house. Do not punish your dog when this happens!
Since it’s probably your fault anyway (you’re not paying attention to the signals
your puppy is sending you, or you’re not keeping with a regular schedule) it’s not
fair to your puppy to punish him when he has an accident in the house. Simply
clean it up and try again.
Don’t expect your puppy to understand why you’re upset with him the first few
times he has an accident. After all, he’s just doing what comes naturally. Why
should that upset you? He won’t understand – at first – what the difference is
between going inside and going outside; just as a human child doesn’t
understand why you might get upset at changing diapers!
Keep a log of what times your puppy eats or drinks and what times he goes.
This will give you a good idea of when to schedule bathroom breaks.
House Training When You Are Not Home
We’ve already established you can’t leave your puppy in a crate all day long
when you’re not home, and I described for you how to confine your puppy to a
room or area of the house where he can spend the day safely when you’re not
there. With his crate, his toys and food and water in this puppy-proofed area,
he’ll have enough to occupy him while you’re gone, and you can begin to use this
area as a way to paper train him.
Paper Training
When you confine your puppy to this “puppy-proofed” area, in addition to the
other items you’ve added to the room, you’ll start by completely covering the floor
with newspapers, 3 to 4 layers deep. When you initially leave your puppy in this
area, there will be no apparent rhyme or reason to where your puppy goes – he’ll
simply go all over the paper. Some puppies develop a preference fairly quickly of
going in one location – others go wherever the urge strikes them. If he picks a
particular spot, so much the better. If not, the next part of this method will take a
little longer.
Each day, reduce the amount of paper covering the floor, until little by little you
have only a small area covered by newspaper. Reduce the area of coverage
slowly – you want your puppy to get the idea that this small area covered by
newspaper is where he needs to go. If your puppy misses the paper and goes
on the floor, you’re moving too fast and need to back up a few steps.
Change the papers every day – place fresh newspapers down, and leave one
page that is still soiled with last night’s urine on top of the fresh ones. This will
give your puppy the idea that it’s okay to go on the newspapers.
As your puppy matures and gains better control of his bowels and bladder, and
as you work with him using other housebreaking methods, he will gradually move
away from needing the papers to go on, and will become fully house-trained.
House Training When You Are Home
You’ll follow the same general guidelines as outlined above and in the last
chapter for housetraining when you’re home, with a couple of important
exceptions. Whether you’re using a crate or simply confining him to a room or
portion of a room, you’ll need to supervise him closely and watch for signals that
he needs to go out.
Take your puppy outside about every 45 minutes to an hour for a potty break.
(By keeping a log of “what goes in and when it comes out” you’ll have a much
better idea of when he’ll need to go.) But remember, puppies aren’t machines –
schedules won’t be to the minute and you’ll still need to closely supervise him.
Make sure your puppy is on a regular feeding schedule. Feeding him at the
same time(s) every day will go a long way to helping schedule his potty breaks.
And don’t forget to praise him lavishly when he does go outside. Pet and praise
and make a big fuss over him and he’ll soon get to know that going outside is a
good thing because it makes you really, really happy!
From Paper Training To Outside Potty Breaks
How do you transition your dog from going inside on newspapers to taking potty
breaks outdoors? It’s not as hard as it seems.
First, if you’re using newspapers or “pee pads” to house train your dog, you
already know the drill – lay the newspapers down all over the floor of the room
where your puppy is confined, and gradually reduce the amount of area that’s
covered by the newspapers as your puppy begins to go in one area. Eventually,
you’ll get to the point where there should only be a small area covered by the
newspapers.
Each day, you’ll reduce the amount of paper covering the floor, until little by little
you have only a small area covered by newspaper. Reduce the area of coverage
slowly – you want your puppy to get the idea that this small area covered by
newspaper is where he needs to go. If your puppy misses the paper and goes
on the floor, you’re moving too fast and need to back up a few steps.
Change the papers every day – place fresh newspapers down, and leave one
page that is still soiled with last night’s urine on top of the fresh ones This will
give your puppy the idea that it’s okay to go on the newspapers.
As your puppy matures and gains better control of his bowels and bladder, and
as you work with him using other housebreaking methods, he will gradually move
away from needing the papers to go on, and will become fully house trained.
Each day when you pick up the old newspapers and replace them with new,
praise your puppy for having gone on the newspapers. He may not completely
understand what you’re saying, but he’ll recognize the praise associated with the
newspapers.
Your next step it to move the newspapers to a location of your choice outside –
where you want him to go outdoors. First, place a newspaper page still soiled
with the previous night’s urine outside where you want to establish a DPA
(Designated Potty Area.) A good time to begin this is usually about 30 minutes
after he’s had dinner – that should be a good time to take him for a walk outside.
(Or if you’re aware of a better time for your individual dog, start then!)
Put him on a leash, and stand near the newspaper. Don’t talk to him other than
to give him a command, such as “Go potty,” or “Get busy,” or “Bombs Away,” or
whatever phrase you want to teach him. Don’t play with him - it’s okay to be
boring here – you’re just waiting for him to go on the newspaper. When he does,
praise him lavishly – tell him what a good boy he is and give him a treat.
Because you’ve already praised him when you changed the newspapers, he
should already have figured out that if he goes on the newspapers he’ll get
praised (and maybe a treat), and after a few days of this he’ll associate using the
newspapers, no matter where they are – with praise. After a few successful
sessions of this, you should be able to stop using the newspaper, and simply
take your puppy for a walk.
A couple more points: it also helps to keep your puppy on a regular schedule –
by that I mean feed him at the same time every day, then take regular bathroom
breaks while you’re home. For example, puppies between 9 and 12 weeks may
have to go as many as 8 – 12 times per day, so you should be taking him outside
about every 45 minutes or so. Puppies between 12 and 26 weeks may need to
go from 5 – 8 times per day, so once an hour to once every 90 minutes or so is
recommended.
When you’re at home, it’s your responsibility to supervise your puppy. Look for
the signals he’s trying to tell you he needs to go outside – running around in
circles, sniffing the ground, agitation (up and down and won’t stay down) – all of
these mannerisms are just your puppy’s way of telling you that he needs to go.
Take him outside for frequent potty breaks, and he’ll soon understand that
outdoors is the place to go!
10 More Things To Consider
Here are come other issues to consider when house training your puppy:
1. Veterinary Exam & Urine/Fecal Check
As soon as possible, schedule a veterinary exam for your pup – in fact, I

recommend you have one before you bring him home. This serves two
purposes: you ensure you’re bringing home a healthy puppy, and you’re
not exposing any other pets in your house to a new member of the family
that might have some contagious disease.
As part of the overall health exam, your vet will also perform a urine and
fecal check to test for bladder or other urinary tract infections, as well as
internal parasite tests to determine if he needs to be treated for worms or
other parasites that can cause bladder or bowel problems.
2. Feed Your Puppy A High-Quality Puppy Food
For more information on what to feed your puppy, as well as what not to
feed him, see the bonus that came with this book titled “What To And
What Not To Feed Your Dog,” but here are a few tips.
Find out what your puppy had been eating before you bring him home.
Rapid or drastic changes in your puppy’s diet can cause stomach and
bowel problems; imagine what would happen to you if you suddenly
switched from a bland diet to a highly-spiced one! Any changes to your
puppy’s diet should be made gradually over the course of about a week,
with an overlap of the old food with the new.
There is a wide variety of puppy foods on the market – choose a high-

quality kibble (dry) dog food that is high in protein (20% or more.) I go into
a lot more detail in “What To And What Not To Feed Your Dog” about dog
foods in general, but in the meantime, take the time to actually read the
label on the dog food bags. You might be surprised at some of the
contents!
Important note: don’t start off feeding your puppy lots of canned dog food
mixed with the dry – it’s a little too rich for his bowels to handle, and can
cause him to have lots of messy messes!
3. Close Supervision Is Essential
I can’t stress this enough. When you’re at home, it’s your responsibility to
supervise your puppy. Look for the signals he’s trying to tell you he needs
to go outside – running around in circles, sniffing the ground, agitation (up
and down and won’t stay down) – all of those should be telling you your
puppy needs to go. For the first few weeks he’s home, don’t let him out of
your sight when he’s out of his crate or “puppy-proofed” area. He may just
take the opportunity to sneak behind a chair and go, and all because you
weren’t watching him.
As part of your supervision duties, take your puppy outside for regular
potty breaks, and praise him when he goes potty outside.
4. When To Take Your Puppy Out To “Go Potty”
Puppies between 9 and 12 weeks may have to go as many as 8 – 12

times per day, so you should be taking him outside about every 45
minutes or so.
Puppies between 12 and 26 weeks may need to go from 5 – 8 times per

day, so once an hour to once every 90 minutes or so is best.
It helps enormously to keep a log of when your dog eats and drinks – this
will help you establish a schedule for your particular puppy.
5. Active House Training
Praise is your most powerful tool in the house training battle. Puppies are
pleasers by nature – they want to do what you want them to do! If you
praise him and give him rewards and generally make a fuss over him
every time he goes in the right place, the faster he’ll learn and the more
eager he’ll be to receive that praise or get that reward.
It’s absolutely essential that you spend as much time as you possibly can
with your puppy, working with him and providing frequent access to his
potty area.
A praise and reward system will speed up the house training lessons
considerably.
6. Neutralize Urine Odors With Enzyme-Based Deodorizer
When your puppy does have an accident in your house, clean up the
mess and neutralize any soiled areas with one of the enzyme-based
products on the market, such as Nature’s Miracle, Fresh ‘n’ Clean, Nilodor
or Outright Pet Odor Eliminator.
Try not to use a cleaner that is ammonia-based, because it smells like

urine to your puppy, and may encourage him to come back to the scene of
the crime and repeat the behavior in that same spot.
7. No Water After 9 PM
In general, unless your puppy seems very thirsty or it’s a very hot day or
evening, don’t give your puppy water after 9 P.M. This will help him avoid
soiling his crate if he sleeps in one, or soiling his “puppy-proof” room.
9. After-The-Fact Discipline Does NOT Work!
It won’t help to rub your puppy’s nose in a mess he’s made. Feces are not
offensive to dogs, and they simply have no clue why you would be doing
this.
Unless you catch your puppy “in the act” of going somewhere he
shouldn’t, he won’t understand why you’re yelling at him. For example,
say your puppy piddles on the floor, and you come into the room 5
minutes later to find the puddle. Scolding your puppy or disciplining him at
that point will only confuse him – he’s already forgotten he’s peed!
If, on the other hand, you walk into the room and catch him peeing, a
sharp “No!” and a quick trip outside are what’s called for – no yelling, no
scolding and especially no physical punishment are out of line!
9. Never Discipline A Dog For Submissive Urination!
Occasionally dogs will pee because they’re excited to see you, or they’re
going through a fearful, submissive stage. DO NOT DISCIPLINE YOUR
PUPPY IF THIS HAPPENS! You can actually make the problem worse if
you punish your dog under these circumstances.
Many things can trigger such a response – from verbal scolding to loud
voices to strangers approaching a submissive puppy.
To help correct the problem, speak to your puppy in a normal, soft tone of
voice and take him outside (even though he’s already gone, he may not
have emptied his bladder, and you can reinforce that he should be going
outside with praise and rewards when he goes where he should.)
As your puppy grows and matures and becomes more self-confident, this
type of behavior should disappear.
10. 3 Keys To Successful House Training
Okay, I’ve bombarded you with information in this chapter. But, it all boils
down to these 3 keys to successfully house training your puppy.
1. Remember – patience is your key to successful house training with

your new puppy – patience coupled with consistency and lots of love.
Your puppy is doing the best he can to please you – it’s just that he’s a
baby and at that age, doesn’t understand exactly what it is you want.
2. You have to keep in mind that your puppy doesn’t have the physical
control necessary to completely avoid having accidents – think about
how little control you had at that age and maybe you can sympathize!
3. Don’t scold or punish your puppy during this training process. The
most effective training program involves lots of positive support in the
forms of praise and rewards. As your puppy grows and matures, he’ll
be able to control his bladder and bowels much better, so he’ll be able
to hold it for longer and longer periods of time. Be realistic about how
long this will take, and remember that it may take your puppy until he is
6 - 8 months old before he is fully house trained.
Chapter 6: House Training

Your Adult Dog
House Training Basics
Obviously, not only puppies need to be house-trained – adult dogs must be

house-trained also.
As explained in the last chapter, “house training” your dog means teaching your
dog to live in your house. This includes things like toilet training, teaching your
dog not to jump up on furniture, chew your shoes, or generally destroy your
house! The goal is to train your dog how to act in your world!
And the key to house training your adult dog is to rely on his natural instincts and
tendencies.
House Training And Dog Nature
As we’ve seen, for the most part, dogs are den animals. They’re most
comfortable in small, enclosed spaces that are sheltered and protected from the
elements. Caves, crevasses, fallen logs that form a protected structure – all are
suitable as a “wolf” den in the wild. (Where do you think humans got the idea of
having a “den” in the house?)
A dog’s “den” is a place of refuge for him – a place where he feels safe and
secure, where he can sleep comfortably and just hang out. In your household,
this can be anywhere your dog feels relaxed and at ease – and you are
comfortable having him. This can be a corner of the kitchen, the floor of a closet,
a crate – in short, it’s where you want your dog to go when he needs to go to his
“den.” (Remember, you’re the Alpha Dog, so you choose the location.)
Ok, the corner of your leather couch

wouldn’t be my first choice for your dog’s
den!
Many people think a crate is too small a space to serve as a dog’s den – but
you’re looking at it from a human’s point of view. Your dog’s den is his sanctuary
– not so much that he’s confined to a small space and can’t come out, but that
humans, or anyone else, can’t get in to bother him.
That doesn’t mean the den has to be a crate – as I said, it can be a location in
your home, or garage, or yard that you designate as his safe haven.
The next step is to put a special bed in the den. This can be anything from a
large cardboard box with a blanket in it, or a beach towel, or a commercially
purchased dog bed. (P.T. likes beanbag beds – he’s actually got one in the
garage, the living room, the basement and the bedroom. Of course, you might
not want to be so extravagant, and might get one for the indoors that can be
moved from room to room, and, if you like, a sturdier one for the outdoors). It
doesn’t really matter what the bed is, just as long as your dog will sleep on it and
feels comfortable.
Dogs by their nature are pretty clean animals. In the wild, they don’t go to the
bathroom inside their dens. They’ll usually go off a ways, well away from where
they eat and sleep. They also develop habits of where they’re most comfortable
going potty. For example, if dogs are raised in the wild, they’ll naturally go in the
woods – on grass or dirt – so that’s where they’re most comfortable. If they’re
city-raised, they may be more comfortable going on concrete or gravel. You’ll
need to keep that in mind when you’re training your adult dog. Knowing the
environment he was raised in can give you added insight into your dog’s
mentality, and make it easier to house-train him.
Defining The Living Area
You need to determine where your dog will be allowed in your home: will he have
the full run of the house, or be limited to specific rooms – such as the kitchen or
the family room?
This is really what you’re comfortable with – I know some people that allow their
dogs access to the entire house, and place the dog’s “den” right next to their bed.
Other people would rather not have their dogs running throughout the house, and
train them to stay in the kitchen area, or the kitchen and family room. In either
case, you’re the one that sets the limits, and you’re the one who must
teach your dog where he can and cannot go. Just be consistent!
If you’ve decided to restrict your dog’s access to the entire house,

and want him to remain in one or more rooms, you’ll use the “Sit –
Stay” command or “Down – Stay” command to train your dog where
the limits are. For example, if the kitchen is the only room of the house he’ll be
allowed in, you’ll bring him to the edge of the room (the limit or boundary of
where he can go) and give him the command to either “Sit – Stay” or “Down –
Stay.”
Once he’s mastered those commands, you’ll repeat this reinforcement of

boundaries repeatedly until he understands that he’s not to go beyond the limit of
that room. As the “Alpha Dog,” you’ve clearly shown him where his boundaries
start and stop.
Defining The Designated Potty Area
Your next step is to define where your dog will go to the bathroom – establishing
his “potty” area, also know as the DPA (Designated Potty Area) for those of you
who like acronyms. Decide where it is that you want your dog to go. When first
starting with housebreaking, especially at the puppy stage, make sure that you
accompany your dog outside every time he needs to go. Take your dog outside
every 2 to 3 hours, and 15-20 minutes after a meal. Resist the urge to play with
your dog on these excursions, and praise him only after he goes to the bathroom.
Your dog will quickly get the idea that when you go outside, that means it’s potty
time.
If you live in an apartment or condo, or other residence that doesn’t have an

outside yard, hold to the same schedule, but put your dog on a leash and take
him for a walk.
Learn to “read” the signals your dog is sending you: he may circle and sniff; he
may act agitated (getting up and down, restless, won’t’ stay down) or whine. Pay
attention to these signals – he’s trying to tell you he needs to go!
It helps to put your dog on a regular feeding schedule. Feed him once or twice a
day, and don’t leave food available all day. If you feed more than once a day,
leave food in the bowl and available for 20 minutes at each feeding and then pick
it up.
If your dog sleeps in the house at night, or is confined to a particular area of the
house during the day (like the garage), make sure you take him outside first thing
in the morning, and first thing when you get home. An adult dog should be able
to control his bladder and bowels for 8 hours, and attending to his needs right
away should help prevent accidents.
House Training: A Few More Pointers
Don’t expect miracles. If you confine your adult dog for too long without taking
him outside, just like with puppies, he won’t be able to hold it, and will go in the
house, or his den – and it will be largely your fault, because you weren’t keeping
an eye on him, or left him inside for too long. If that happens, don’t hit your dog
for going in the house, or where he shouldn’t. In fact, don’t push his face or nose
into the mess and yell at him, either. Feces are not offensive to your dog, and he
will have no idea why you’re doing that.
You can use paper training to train your dog if you’re going to be gone for a
longer period of time than your dog can hold it. Spread clean newspapers over
the entire area of where your dog is confined (and don’t confine him to a crate for
an entire day – it will only make it more likely that your dog will go in his “den,”
which may become a habit that is very hard to break!) When your dog goes on
the paper, remove all the soiled newspaper except for one sheet that has a little
urine on it. Spread clean newspapers over the same area, reducing the amount
of area covered slightly, then place the one soiled newspaper on top of the clean.
Repeat this process each day until you’ve reduced the total area covered to a
small newspaper and your dog gets the idea that spot is where he is supposed to
go. (You know, this might be the time to have that discussion with your
significant other about leaving the paper lying around on the floor of the living
room!) You may also place the soiled newspaper outside in the area of your yard
that you want your dog to use for his potty area.
Keep in mind that your dog is not “out to get you” or “trying to ruin your house” or
anything of that nature. Dogs simply see things in dog terms. For example, you
may spread paper on the floor of the kitchen or the garage to encourage him to
go on the hard surface, because it’s easier for you to clean. Your dog is
becoming accustomed to going outside on the grass or dirt, which is a softer
surface. You take your dog from the kitchen’s hard surface through the family
room to the backyard, but your dog goes as soon as he hits the carpet in the
family room. Your dog doesn’t know that the carpet is a carpet – he simply thinks
it’s a softer surface, so it’s ok for him to go there.
That’s why it’s critical that you keep an eye on your dog, and spend time taking
him outside where he can go. If you watch the signals he’s giving you, and you
see him start to squat on the carpet, for example, don’t hit him – just say “No” in
a loud and sharp tone of voice and take him outside immediately. He’ll soon get
the idea that there’s a difference between the outside surfaces in the backyard,
and your carpet. And be sure to praise and reward him every time he goes potty
outside.
If your adult dog continues to go in the house, despite your

best efforts at house breaking, consider the possibility that
your dog has a medical condition or urinary tract problems
that your vet needs to examine. Have a thorough medical
checkup to eliminate this possibility.
Also, check out the “spiteful behavior” section for some

additional tips.
Common House Training Problems
Here are a few common problems you may encounter when

housetraining your pet, and what you might do to correct them:
1. If your dog is making lots of messy messes, try

switching to a higher quality dog food. That should
help cut down on doggie waste. (See also the
bonus section on what to feed your dog.)
2. Keep a record of when your dog eats and when he

goes. After a week or so, you’ll begin to see a
pattern, which will help you schedule trips outside.
3. If your dog seems to be urinating excessively, keep

an eye on how much water he’s drinking. Some
dogs drink an excessive amount of water, which
then causes them to urinate much more than the
average dog. If your dog does this, take him to his
potty area more frequently, and keep a log of when
he drinks and when he needs to go. This will not
only help you schedule trips outside, but may also
tip you off to a medical condition your dog might
have that causes excessive thirst.
4. Remember that puppies can’t hold it as long as

adult dogs. They’ll need more frequent trips outside
(every two to three hours.) Also, if your puppy has
an accident in his den overnight, don’t scold him.
He won’t have a clue why you’re mad.
5. Dogs will sometimes piddle when you come home –

out of excitement, usually. Try to catch him in the
act, tell him “No” in a sharp tone of voice, and take
him outside immediately.
The First 7 Days Of House Training Your Adult Dog
The first 7 days of training your dog are the most critical in terms of house-
training. Why? Because that’s when you’ll teach your dog the most important
rules and regulations of the house. At the end of the first 7 days, your dog
should know:
1. Who is the Alpha Dog in the house (that’s you!)

2. Where his “den” is
3. Where his “bed” is if that’s different from his den
4. Where his potty area is
5. What room(s) he’s allowed in
6. Not to get on the furniture
7. Not to chew on the furniture
Sound like a lot for the first seven days? Not really. You, as the Head Honcho,
Alpha Dog of this wolf pack, have laid down the house rules for your new buddy.
(Or your old buddy – I’ll talk about that in a minute.) Your dog will be more
comfortable and confident knowing what his guidelines are, and knowing that
you’re in charge, than trying to guess what it is that you want from him.
I want to make an important point here: these first seven days apply not only to
new pups, or new adult dogs that you may have acquired, but also to dogs that
you’ve owned for years that you’re trying to retrain.
If you’re in the position of owning a dog who thinks he’s the Big Dog of your pack,
this seven-day period is all about reclaiming that prominent position and
regaining control of your house. And your dog. It can be done – you just have to
be consistent and thorough in re-establishing your place, and don’t allow the bad
habits and behaviors to creep back into your relationship with your dog.
Try to remember that your dog is really on the level of a child, and like most kids,
is looking for guidance and boundaries and some structure to his life, so that he
can relax, knowing someone else is in charge and will make the right decisions.
The problem is that some people (okay, a lot of people) forget that they’re
supposed to be the “parent” – their puppies are so cute, or their dogs are such
wonderful companions, that they start thinking of them as buddies and best
friends, not children that need to be taken care of. And pretty soon, the dog is
running the household. Don’t make that mistake! And if you already have made
that mistake – you can still correct it.
Do you have a dog, or a child?
Review Your Daily Schedule
Every household is different – we all get up at different times and do different

things throughout the day. Depending on the breed of dog you have, and the
dynamics of your own family (kids, jobs, etc.) you need to sit down and evaluate
what your “typical” daily schedule is like. Then you can establish who is going to
be responsible for what task, for example:
• Whoever gets up first should be responsible for taking the dog out first
thing in the morning to go potty.
• Whoever is home during the day (or gets home first among the family
members) should take the dog out to go potty when they get home.
• The Alpha Dog (that’s you!) should be doing the feeding.
Another important factor to keep in mind is that this training needs to be

consistent, and it doesn’t really matter how many “people” family members you
have, everyone needs to be on the same page as far as the uniformity of training
goes. It won’t do you any good (or your dog, for that matter), if Dad tells your
dog one thing, Mom tells it another, and Junior something else.
I’m not just talking about the actual commands themselves: “Sit”, “Stay”, “Down”,
etc. I’m talking about behaviors, also. If Dad tells your dog he’s not allowed on
the couch, but Mom lets him sleep there for his afternoon nap – you’re working at
cross-purposes. You’re only confusing your dog by not maintaining a consistent
level of training – he won’t know who to believe and he won’t have any idea
where his boundaries are – which will only lead to him trying to figure out what he
can and can’t do – he’ll test everyone in the family to see what he can get away
with. The end result will be frustration on everyone’s part! So make it easy on
everyone and have everyone use the same commands and set the same
limitations.
So for the first 7 days of house training, you’re going to mix and match your dog’s
lessons – you don’t have to teach him one thing every day in sequence. (Dogs
don’t think like that – they learn best by repetitive lessons: teaching them the
same lesson over and over again until they clearly understand what it is you
want.)
In other words, don’t try to teach your dog that you’re the Alpha Dog all day on
Monday, then where his “den” is all day on Tuesday, then where his potty area is
on Wednesday and so forth. Mix up the lessons, repeating them several times
during each day. By the end of the first 7 days of training (or retraining) your dog
will understand the basics!
Remember, too, that dogs have a short attention span. Any time you have a
training session, keep it short and simple – no more than 5-10 minutes at a time.
And don’t try to cram too much into each lesson; don’t try to teach him to “Sit”,
“Stay” “Down” and go potty outside all in the same lesson.
Think of your dog as a toddler: keep the lessons short, one thing per lesson,
keep it fun if possible, and praise lavishly. They’ll learn faster and you’ll be
happier with them!
Alpha Dog
Remember, this isn’t about punishment or being mean. This is about

establishing your undisputed position as the Big Cheese.
With a new dog, either puppy or adult, on the first day, put your dog on a leash
and walk him around the inside and outside of the house. Introduce him to the
other animals in the family, as well as your “people” family members. Show him
his potty area; show him his den and bed, show him where his water and food
dishes are.
Make sure you (as the Alpha Dog) precede him into the room (you’re a leader,
remember?). This guided tour should be designed to demonstrate to him that
this is your world, and you’re introducing him to it. Name each thing you want
him to learn: “bed,” “potty,” names of other pets – anything you want him to
eventually know by name.
You should be the one feeding your dog, but make sure that you feed him only
after you eat. You need to sit down and have your meal before he does. And for
at least this training period, don’t feed him from the table, or give him scraps off
of your plate!
If you’re trying to re-train a dog that you’ve had for a while and has gotten out of
control, the guided tour isn’t necessary. He obviously knows the family
members, knows the other pets you may have and knows where his bed is, so
you don’t have to introduce him to these items.
You will, however, have to teach him that you really are the Alpha Dog, and he
needs to mind you when you tell him something. Rearranging the feeding
schedule can help reinforce that; as can re-teaching him that the word “No,”
means “No.”
If you have a problem with your older dog lying in the middle of the floor or
hallway, and you have to walk around him, make him move. Even if you can
easily step over him, this is about re-establishing dominance. Big Dogs don’t
walk around or step over dogs lower on the social scale. It’s a small point, but
your dog will interpret it as you being more important than he is.
This is your house, and he needs to learn (or re-learn) that!
Where Did You Say That Den Was?
You also need to teach him where his “den” or “bed” is. Whether you’re using a
crate, a bed or a blanket, put your dog on a leash and lead him to it. Point at it
and identify it by however you want him to recognize it by name: “Bed,” or
“Blankie” or whatever. (That way, when you want him to go to bed at some point,
you should be able to say that word, he’ll know what it is you mean, and go
there.)
At first, your older dog will probably look at you as if you’ve lost your mind, but be
persistent. He can be taught just as easily as a new dog or a pup that his bed or
den is over there, and yours is over here, or in another room.
Identifying The DPA
Again, put a leash on your dog and take him outside. Show him where his potty
area is in the yard. Point to it and name it (use whatever word you’re comfortable
with: potty, bathroom – something that identifies this place as the place he needs
to go.) Let’s call it the DPA (Designated Potty Area) for our purposes in this book.
Praise him when he goes – as soon as he gets the idea that bathroom breaks
are taken outside, you can take him off of the leash and let him go on his own.
Part of the reason you want to teach him that specific word for where he goes is
because once he’s house-trained, you can ask him a simple question using that
word, for example: “Do you have to go potty?” He’ll recognize the word, and
head for the door.
House Boundaries
This lesson is all about showing your dog where in the house he’s allowed to
wander. If he has the full run of the house, with no limitations, then you can skip
this part of his training. Otherwise, leash him up and take him to the outer limits
of the places he’s allowed – the edge of the linoleum or tile in the kitchen, the
boundaries of the sun room, the garage; wherever he’ll be allowed to go.
Stop him at the edge of the room or area, make him sit, and give him the “Stay”
or “Stay-Down” command. Praise him when he stops at the boundary. Then you
step over the boundary, and again tell him to “Stay.” If he tries to follow you, tell
him “No,” return him to the outer limit of where he’s allowed to go, and have him
sit again. Repeat until he understands that he’s not to follow you past that point.
With a puppy, it may be in your best interest to limit his room access until he’s
fully house-broken; keep him in the kitchen area or a tiled area (or other easy-to-
clean flooring) until you’re past the “accident” stage. Once he’s learned to go
outside instead of on the floor, you can gradually increase the number of rooms
you allow him to have access to.
Get Off The Furniture!
This is a relatively easy problem to nip in the bud – with a new dog or a puppy,
the simple solution is to never let him develop the habit of getting on the furniture.
When he approaches where you’re sitting or lying, give him the “Down” or “Down
- Stay” command and have him lay next to the couch or chair. If he attempts to
climb on the couch and sit next to you, tell him “No” in that sharp tone of voice. If
necessary, put the leash on him and tug gently on the leash if he tries again.
I know this is going to sound indulgent, but we’ve arrived at a solution that works
for us. I already mentioned P.T. has four beanbag beds – one in the living room,
one in the bedroom, one in the basement and one in the garage. That’s his
furniture; so he never gets on our furniture and we never get on his!
If you’re having a problem with your old dog getting on the furniture, put a leash
on him and when he tries to get on the couch or your favorite chair, tug on the
leash and tell him “No,” in a sharp and loud voice. Be prepared for resistance, or
for him testing you again and again, as you’re trying to break a bad habit that
you’ve allowed to develop. Be patient, but firm. Don’t let him backslide and
think, “Oh, just this once I’ll let him sleep next to me, just while I’m watching the
game.” Before you know it, he’ll be pushing you off the couch!
My Couch Is Not Your Personal Chew Toy!
There are a couple of ways to stop your dog from chewing on the furniture. First,
let’s take a look at why dogs chew in the first place.
Dogs chew. They chew because it’s entertaining. Or they’re bored. Or they
have a nice, big beefy bone to chomp on. It’s normal and natural. You just
object when it’s your couch or your favorite recliner that they’re reducing to
splinters.
First, try a spray like “Bitter Apple.” (It’s a commercially available spray that you
can usually find in pet supply houses.) It’s completely safe for your dog, but
leaves a nasty taste in his mouth. Spray it on the legs or bottom portion of your
furniture (if you have fabric in these areas test a small patch on the back or in a
non-visible place to test for color-fastness.)
Another common concern is dogs that develop the habit of chewing on electrical
cords, like lamp cords or TV or stereo cords. Obviously, this can be a serious,
even fatal problem if they chomp through all the insulation into a live current.
One of the quickest ways to stop this problem before it starts is to rub jalapeno
juice over any cords that are accessible to your dog. Use either fresh or canned
jalapeno peppers, and rub the juice up and down the exposed part of the cord.
One whiff and your dog will pass on chewing on it!
Next, try buying chewing toys, but remember – don’t pick small toys that can split
up or lose small pieces and parts that could choke your dog. Rawhide bones,
balls and ropes all work well, as do real beef back rib bones. If you find your dog
chewing on something he shouldn’t, take it away and replace it with something
he can chew on.
Many pet stores nowadays will let you bring your dog with you when shopping in
their store. Call ahead to find out if your local pet store will allow that, and if they
do, bring your dog with you and let him pick out his own chew toys! Then, when
you come home and give your dog a new toy, why, he’ll figure you’re a regular
mind-reader when you pull out his absolute favorite toy!
Chapter 7: A Few Basics Before

You Start Training
Before you get started training your dog, there are a few items you ought to
purchase if you don’t have them already. Things like leashes and harnesses and
collars, doggie treats and toys.
Choosing The Right Leash And Collar
Let’s talk about choosing the proper leash and collar for your dog.
In the past, when people spoke of training collars, they generally were referring
to what are commonly called “choke chains” or “choke collars. A choke chain is
a metal chain with a sliding ring that is attached to your dog’s nylon or leather
leash.
There’s a reason it’s called a choke chain. Because there is no limit on how tight
the training collar can pull against your dog’s neck, there exists a very real
possibility it can choke him, as well as cause other injuries, such as:
• Severely sprained necks

• Tracheal and esophageal damage
• Injured ocular vessels
• Cases of fainting
• Transient foreleg paralysis
• Laryngeal nerve paralysis
And if you think I’m kidding about any of these injuries, I’m not; they’re all well-
documented cases taken from hundreds of veterinary practices who have treated
the dogs injured by choke chains.
Bottom line? In the hands of an experienced trainer, a choke chain can be used
appropriately, but, for the most part, your average person has no idea what an
appropriate use of a choke chain entails.
My own personal preference is for a flat buckle collar, either nylon or leather,
which can be used for training and everyday use. It should fit snugly, but leave
room enough for you to slide two fingers between the collar and your dog’s neck.
Any looser than that, and it may slide off over your dog’s head. Any tighter and it
may cause chafing and discomfort.
The choice of nylon or leather is simply a matter of personal preference – nylon

comes in a variety of bright colors, and is a good choice for dogs that spend a lot
of time in the water (or mud!) Leather is durable and will absorb oils from your
dog’s coat, making it more flexible over time.
The width of the collar should be appropriate to your dog’s size. For example, a
wide, heavy or thick collar just won’t work on a Chihuahua, in fact, it would look
ridiculous. By the same token, if you have a Rottweiler, a diamond- or rhine-
stone-studded poodle collar is going to look pretty silly. And don’t forget an
identification tag – if your dog is lost or stolen, this is a quick way for authorities
to notify you when your pet is located.
Another terrific solution is a harness – a device that goes around the neck and
ribcage, thus eliminating the possibility of choking. Harnesses are an excellent
resolution to the problem of having a large dog that hasn’t been well-trained and
pulls or lunges when out for a walk. It’s a great way to restrain the pulling without
getting in that choking “tug of war” that you sometimes see. Harnesses are also
good for small dogs, which can have serious problems with collars pressing on
their small and fragile airways.
Now for the proper leash. As with collars, you have a choice of flat nylon or
leather (or braided leather is also available), and as with collars, it’s largely a
matter of personal preference.
I use a 6 foot nylon leash for training my dog. I find it’s the perfect length for
walking, heeling and virtually all of my training sessions.
Many dog owners prefer a retractable leash. These are nylon leashes that are
encased in a plastic casing, and vary in length up to about 25 feet or so. The
best models of this type have a one-button “braking” system that stops your dog
from going beyond a set distance, as well as a spring mechanism that allows you
to adjust just how far you want to extend the lead.
Retractable leashes are a good idea if you walk your dog in a variety of settings:
you can “reel” him in if you’re on city sidewalks or in situations where there are a
lot of people or other dogs around, then you can expand the distance between
you when you get to the park or an open space.
And though I’ve never used one myself, I know some people who swear by what
are called “gentle leaders.” These leashes come up and go around the top of a
dog’s nose. There’s a woman I know who walks her Newfoundland in the same
park as I walk P.T. She swears by the gentle leader as an easy way to control
her dog because it puts gentle pressure on the dog’s nose. She can get her
Newfie, “Cody,” to do as she pleases with a little tug here and there.
Bottom line – comfort and safety come first when making your choice – fashion
should be a distant second!
7 Basic Training Items You Need To Get Started
1. Leather or Flat Nylon Buckle-style Collar
2. Fixed nylon collar for puppies under 4 months, or little
tiny dogs (such as Chihuahuas)
3. 6 Foot Nylon or Leather Leash. Regular, or retractable
depending on your needs and preference.
4. Dog Harness for control of smaller dogs and Dog
Harness or Gentle Leader for more powerful, harder-to-

control dogs.
5. Dog Crate
6. Your dog’s favorite toys (or new ones if he’s a new dog
or puppy to your household)
7. Doggie Treats
Those are the basic pieces of equipment that you’ll need to get started. Now,
let’s take a look at the 3 most important components of any training program –
known as “PCP”.
The 3 Most Important Components Of Training - PCP
No, I’m not talking about drugging your dog! (Shame on you for even thinking
that!) PCP (in this case) stands for the three things you need to keep in mind
day in and day out when you’re training your dog:
1. Patience
2. Consistency
3. Practice
Patience is the key to any training program with your dog. The level of patience
you display while training your dog will have a direct impact on whether you have
a happy, well-trained dog, or a miserable, misbehaving one.
You’re the adult here, remember? You’re the trainer, the leader of your pack,
and the one doing the teaching. You know that your dog needs short and
positive training sessions. You know you can’t teach him everything in one
session, or even in a week of sessions. So patience is the key. If you find
yourself getting frustrated when training your dog, end the session on a positive
note, and stop the training. Don’t lose your temper and take it out on your dog.
It’s not his fault you’re getting annoyed – ok, well, maybe it is, but it’s up to you to
maintain control and restart the training on another day.
Consistency is the second most important component of training. I’ve already

talked about how important it is for everyone in the family to give your dog the
same commands and allow the same behaviors. I can’t stress this point enough.
If your family is all on the same page in terms of training, your dog will be trained
more quickly and thoroughly than you can imagine.
Everyone in the household needs to use the same commands. That way, when
someone says “Sit” to your dog, he knows it means “Sit,” not “Lie Down,” not
“Okay, go eat your food now,” not “It’s okay to chase the cat.” Sit means Sit.
Down means Down.
And it’s equally important to keep the behaviors consistent. You can’t have one
family member letting your dog get on the couch and another trying to discipline
him and telling him “No!” for the same behavior. It will only confuse him, with the
end result that he won’t learn which behavior is right. So he’ll either try to do
both, or neither. And either one of those actions will simply get him in trouble
with whichever family member happens to be present at the time.
Practice makes perfect. I really hate to use that old adage, but it’s true!
Repetition is the way to teach your dog a lesson – any lesson. Repeating the
lesson over and over again will engrain it so deeply in your dog’s memory it’s
likely he’ll never forget it, and that’s what you want. You want his reaction to your
commands to become second nature, obeyed almost instinctively and certainly
followed immediately – it literally could be the difference between life and death
for your dog.
Remember my example of the dog running out into a busy intersection chasing a
cat? That’s a perfect case in point of how a well-trained dog can be kept from
harm by a simple voice command. What better reason could you have to train
your dog?
11 Basic Training Tips
There are some essential training tips and techniques you should keep in mind
as you’re training your dog. They can all be integrated gradually into a
successful training program and help serve in giving your dog a well-rounded
education.
1. Start Easy, Move To More Difficult
Sounds like common sense, but you might be surprised at what some dog
owners attempt in the first few lessons. Start with simple commands
(“Sit,” “Heel,” “Down,” etc.) then move to more difficult ones: “Fetch the
bird,” “Bring Me the Paper, “Wash the Dishes.” (Okay, I’m kidding on that
last one, but you get the idea!)
When you were in school, did you start out learning the ABC’s, or did you
proceed immediately to speech writing, calculus and astronomy? Give
your dog a break and start with simple things.
2. Consider The Breed You’re Working With
Different breeds are known to have different abilities. Learn everything

you can about your breed of dog and determine what innate abilities that
breed is supposed to have. For example, if you have a Golden Retriever
that you’re trying to train to become a ferocious attack dog, you might be
interested to know that Golden Retrievers are one of the friendliest,
happiest dog breeds around. You’re probably going to suffer a severe
disappointment the first time a burglar breaks into your house and your
Golden takes him gently by the hand and shows him where all the
valuables are located.
On the other hand, if you’re trying to train that same Golden Retriever to . .
. well, retrieve something, such as a ball or a bird, you’ll probably have a
much easier time of it because that’s what Goldens do – retrieve things!
Does that mean you can’t train your Golden as an attack dog? No, of
course not. But it does mean that it may take you considerably longer to
do so, because you’re training against the grain of the dog’s personality
and psyche.
3. Keep It Short And Sweet
I’ve talked about this before, but I want to reinforce it. Keep training
sessions short and end on a positive note. When first starting training, say
for example you’re working on the command “Sit.” If your dog sits for
even a second or two, praise and reward him and release him from that
session. You can gradually increase the amount of time your dog sits in
position, but, especially at the beginning, keep it short.
4. Add Distractions Gradually
Let’s face it – the world is an interesting place. It’s interesting to us; it’s
interesting to our dogs. It’s full of people and birds and cars and squirrels
and cats and all sorts of interesting things, all of which will compete
against you for your dog’s attention. Start your training sessions in an
area that has a minimum of distractions: inside your house or backyard;
an area that he’s familiar with and where he knows the distractions that
already exist.
Once he’s responding to your commands reliably in this type of

environment, gradually move your training sessions to other locations with
a variety of other distractions, such as outside in the front yard, at the
park, at the train station, in the parking lot of a shopping mall.
Once he’s responding reliably in those kinds of areas, increase the

distractions in your level of activity:
• Bounce a ball.
• Use a squeaky toy to make noise.
• Sing a song to him around giving him the command.
• Run in place in front of him.
• Have a friend bring another dog up along side of him, or behind
him.
Your goal here is to get him to pay attention to you, and the command
you’re giving him, regardless of whatever else you’re doing, or what else is
going on around him. (Important note: don’t use a distraction that scares
your dog!)
5. Increase The Distance Between You And Your Dog
It’s much easier to control your dog when you’re giving him a command
and you’re within three feet of him. Start there – that’s an appropriate
distance to begin with; then gradually increase the distance between you
until you’re roughly 30 feet apart, and he responds reliably to your
commands.
And don’t try going from 3 feet to 30 feet in one lesson, please! Do it
gradually, in incremental steps. Start with 5 feet, then 10, then 15 – move
away from him a little at a time, until you can stand a substantial distance
away and still have him follow commands.
6. Decrease The Distance Between Your Dog And Distractions
Just as you start off closer to your dog and gradually increase the distance
between you, conversely you want to start with a greater distance
between your dog and any distractions he might be facing.
If you move your training sessions to the park, begin your lessons by
keeping your distance from the squirrels, other dogs or kids playing with
balls until your dog reliably pays attentions to your commands. Then,
gradually move closer to the distractions, making sure that your dog is
responding to your commands and not the distractions.
7. Vary Places, Context And Times When Giving Commands
Well, variety is the spice of life, and it’s an important component of

training. I’ve already talked about changing the location for your training
sessions and gradually bringing in other distractions until your dog
understands that a command is a command, regardless of location or
circumstances.
You can reinforce this lesson by giving those commands in a wide variety
of circumstances, situations, conditions and times. Train your dog to
recognize the commands when you’re outside on the sidewalk, or at the
park on the grass; sitting on a log, or when you’re riding a horse; at the
beach or in the pet supply store (if they allow pets inside). Don’t make
your dog think the only time he’s going to hear the command “Down –
Stay” is at night in front of the television. Give him commands morning,

noon and night.
Give him commands when you’re at the top of the stairs and he’s at the
bottom. Give him commands when you’re laying face-down on the couch,
or taking a shower.
Give him commands when he can’t see you. (You’ll either need another
person for this or a mirror so you can watch around the corners to make
sure he’s obeying the command.) Put him in the kitchen, and give him the
“Sit - Stay” command. You go into the living room and give him the “Down”
command. Repeat until he obeys your voice even when he can’t see you.
8. Modulate Your Voice
Talk to your dog in differing tones and volumes of voice. Begin

commands with a soft, calm tone. If you train him to respond to the quiet
and moderate levels of your voice, you won’t have to yell at him in the
future to have him respond to your commands. If you start off loud, you’ll
have to stay loud to gain his attention every time.
When he does something wrong, use the sharp and moderately loud “No!”
command rather than a physical discipline.
Use a “happy” voice in everyday conversation with him, or when you want
to reassure him that his behavior is appropriate – such as when he comes
out from under that chair at the vet’s that he tried to sneak under.
Your dog will soon learn the different tones of your voice, and will be able
determine your mood based largely on that, even before you begin giving
him commands.
9. Vary The Order Of Your Commands
Don’t give your dog commands in the same order every time. Pretty soon
you’ll end up with a “pattern-trained” dog that expects the orders to come
in the same sequence each training session, and he’ll react to the
sequence, rather than the command.
Don’t tell him “Sit,” “Stay,” “Lie Down,” “Play Dead” in that order each and
every time, because if you then take a command out of sequence, he’ll get
confused and won’t know what you expect him to do at that particular
time. Mix up your commands in the order that you give them, just as you
vary the locations and times of day, etc.
10. Praise, Praise, Praise
Dogs are pleasers. They really want nothing more than to make you
happy. When they do something that you’ve asked them to do, reward
them initially with a treat (maybe not a T-Bone steak!), but also praise
them extravagantly. The more praise your dog receives, the more he’ll try
to please you, so he’ll receive even more praise from you. It’s sort of like
a self-perpetuating positive cycle – obey commands, praise, obey more
commands, more praise, obey even more… well, you get the idea!
And as I indicated before, as soon as is practical, decrease the amount of

dog treats you’re giving him, and replace them with praise and more
praise. Soon you won’t have to use the doggie treats at all.
11. 3 Other Effective Types of Correction
There are three other types of corrective methods you can use on your
dog – they work in a variety of situations in your house. The first is the
“water” correction; the second is the “rattle correction”; and the third is
“balloon therapy.”
1. Water Correction
This one sounds a little weird, but it works well. Buy yourself a
cheap water pistol or even a spray bottle will do. It doesn’t have to
be one of the “Super Soaker, shoots 5 gallons of water in two
minutes” type of water cannon – just a cheap, plastic version that
can be adjusted to fire a steady stream of water. This technique is
especially useful in the house when your dog is off the leash, and
maybe is lying across the room from you. When your dog does
something wrong or inappropriate – maybe he’s doing a
“commando crawl” across the carpet to stealthily sneak up on the
cat – you can give him a stern “No” verbal command with a single
burst from the water pistol. It certainly doesn’t physically harm him,
but it will hurt his feelings; try hard not to laugh at his insulted
expression. And a few times of being squirted while being told
“No!” should eliminate the problem or bad behavior in a hurry.
2. Rattle Correction
This one also sounds weird, but it’s a surefire way to get your dog’s
attention … fast! Get a used aluminum can – a Coke can or
something like it. Fill it a third of the way with pebbles or marbles.
Tape the top shut. You now have a rattle.
When your pooch is getting ready to do something wrong, say,

jump up on the radiator when he hears a car pull up the drive, lift a
leg in the kitchen, or climb up on the couch for a well-deserved
snooze, just shake your rattle ... with vigor … and say “No!” in a
clear, authoritative voice. This will get your dog’s attention fast, and
divert him from whatever it is he was about to do wrong. And,
sooner or later, he’ll come to understand that that is an undesired
behavior and he will stop doing it.
3. Balloon Therapy
This technique is useful for keeping your dog off the furniture, or
teaching him the boundaries of the house. The first step is to teach
your dog that he doesn’t like balloons. You do this by blowing up
the balloons and presenting them to your dog while rubbing them
with your hands so they produce a high-pitched squeal. With his
sensitive hearing, this should immediately annoy your dog, and
make him back away from the balloon. (Note: don’t harass your
dog unnecessarily with the balloons – just annoy him enough to
make your point.)
Once you’ve established that your dog doesn’t like the balloons,
place them on the couch or other furniture that you want him to stay
off of – a good rule of thumb is one balloon per cushion. Or, using
scotch tape to hold them in place, place a line of them across the
doorway of a room you want him to stay in. Expecting the balloons
to make that high-pitched squeal when he approaches them, he
should stay behind the line of balloons in the area you want him to
stay.
I say should because I have a friend that tried the balloon aversion
technique with her Boxer, who promptly decided that the balloons
made great toys to play with. Sort of like a kid who plays with
bubble wrap, popping all the bubbles, my friend’s Boxer would lie
down next to the balloon, carefully holding it between both front
paws and then bite it until it popped. He would always jump when it
popped, but would proceed right on to the next balloon and do the
same thing.
What’s my point? One that you should remember – not all

techniques work on all dogs. Dogs are individuals and what works
for one may not work for the next. In my friend’s case, the balloons
didn’t work, but the water correction worked fine!
You are almost ready to start teaching your dog some basic, but powerful
commands! But first, a few words about dominant dogs …
Chapter 8: Training A Dominant

Dog
Most people think that dominant dogs are aggressive dogs, but the two aren’t
necessarily the same. I’ll talk a little more about aggressive dogs shortly, but this
chapter will concentrate on training the dominant dog, not the aggressive dog.
If you have a dog that displays aggressive tendencies, toward you, your family or
other animals, I urge you to immediately locate a trained behaviorist or dog
trainer who is knowledgeable about working with aggressive dogs. An
aggressive dog is not something that most people can handle, or train with any
degree of safety and security.
Dog Trainer vs. Animal Behaviorist
To correct problem behaviors in your aggressive dog, you can talk to a dog
trainer or an animal behaviorist. An animal behaviorist generally has a more
thoroughly trained background in the specifics of animal behavior, but there are
some phenomenal dog trainers out there as well who can assist with problem
behaviors.
To find either a dog trainer or animal behaviorist, look first in your local yellow
pages, magazine ads and similar local publications to find one in your area. Ask
at the local humane society and phone veterinarian offices for referrals.
Check references when you do get a referral – ask to speak to other people this
individual has helped – find out what sort of behavior modification training the
trainer wants to use, and find out if you can accompany your dog to the training
sessions. (If the behaviorist or trainer says “no,” my advice would be to find
another trainer. You don’t want to subject a dog that already has aggressive
tendencies to possibly cruel treatment.)
Dominant Dogs
Let’s look at what defines a dominant dog, and what special training techniques
are needed to regain control of this dog who has taken over your household.
The common misperception is that aggressive dogs come in two sizes – large
and larger. Rottweilers, Pit Bulls, German Shepherds all have been labeled as
being dominant breeds, but it’s just as likely to be a Yorkshire Terrorist that’s
taken over your house. (And yes, I said Yorkie Terrorist!)
A dominant dog isn’t defined by breed, but by actions. Dominant dogs think
they’re the leader of the pack: you’ve lost your primary place of importance in
your household, and they’ve taken over. Well, someone’s got to be in charge – if
you weren’t willing to assume that role, they will!
The problem is that once your dog has assumed the dominant position, you’ve
got to reclaim that title as Head Honcho, so some re-training is in order. Many
times, dominant dogs are smart, quick to learn and adept at getting their own
way. They’ve got charm, persistence and attitude. Your mission, should you
decide to accept it, is to rearrange the social order in your house, without abuse,
without being mean to your dominant dog and without using cruelty in any way,
shape or form. Trust me, you can do it!
5 Signs That You Have A Dominant Dog
Here are a few clues that you’re dealing with a dominant dog (these aren’t all the
possibilities, but you may recognize some of these traits in your own dog):
• Your dog will not allow physical handling, such as brushing, bathing, and
trips to the vet are a nightmare.
• Your dog jumps on people constantly, despite your attempts to restrain

him.
• Your dog growls at you when in possession of toys, food bowls or other
items he considers “his.”
• Your dog grumbles at you when you approach his sleeping area, or wants
to sleep on the furniture and grumbles at you when you disturb him when
he’s on the couch next to you.
• There are times when you’re afraid of your dog – such as when he stares
you down or snaps at you (with or without contact).
You Must Be The Alpha Dog, The Pack Leader In Your Pack!
We’ve already talked a bit about the Alpha Dog issue – how every wolf pack
needs a leader. The problem with the dominant dog is that you’ve relinquished
that position, and he’s assumed it. In order to regain that position of dominance,
you need to rearrange the social order in your house, uh, pack. Without that
level of respect, your dog will continue to be dominant, and make your entire
household uncomfortable.
Your Role As Pack Leader
As Pack Leader, your dog is looking to you for certain things: to make decisions
for the pack that will protect them from physical harm and emotional distress; to
provide food and shelter for the pack, in short – to act as parent, guardian,
teacher, ally, friend and benevolent dictator.
Did you see mentioned anywhere in that list strict disciplinarian, overbearing
ogre, tyrant or abuser of dogs? No! And the reason you didn’t see that is
because the leader of the pack is none of those things! Being the leader doesn’t
mean you beat up on your dog to re-establish your prominent position – in fact, if
you engage in that kind of behavior you’ll likely turn your dog from merely a
dominant dog to an aggressive one, with a whole new set of problems.
Being the leader isn’t about being mean – it’s about being the authority figure
without being cruel, and gentle and kind without being too permissive. It’s your
responsibility as the leader to treat your dog with love and kindness, without
letting him get away with murder in the process!
Don’t ever hit your dog – whether training him or otherwise. It merely contributes
to aggressive behavior, and shows that your dog is actually more intelligent than
you are, because you haven’t been able to outwit or outthink him, and had to
resort to physical violence to make your point.
NOTE: Dominant and Aggressive are not necessarily synonymous.

If your dog is in any way aggressive do NOT try these methods yourself!
Only an experienced trainer or behaviorist has the know-how necessary to
train an aggressive dog safely.
Begin Training Of Dominant Dogs Early
Whether you’re dealing with a new puppy in your household, or an older dog that
you’ve allowed to assume control of your house, you need to retrain them into
the mindset that you’re the leader.
There are a number of avenues you can take to teach your new dog that you’re
the Big Cheese in your household, or re-train an older dog that this really is your
house and he needs to realize that.
Let’s take a look:
1. Teach your puppy or older dog the basic obedience commands.

Training your dog to respond to these commands will go a long way
toward establishing your position as the Alpha Dog, since your dog will
perform them at your command, thus relegating him to a less-dominant
position. In addition, once you have your dog trained to these basic
commands, you can then use them to make a psychological point with
your dog and reinforce your dominant position. For example, if your
dog is too aggressive at meal times, you can put him in the Down-Stay
position for as long as it takes him to realize that he’s not getting fed
until after you eat. As the Alpha Dog, dining first is your right. Making
him wait for his dinner, especially if he has to wait in the Down-Stay
position, demonstrates very clearly to him that you’re the Alpha Dog.
Not him.
2. I talked about this before in Chapter 2 on Canine Psychology – your

dog needs to view you as the leader. Leaders lead, followers follow.
Make sure you’re the first one through the door, not your dog.
3. If your dog is fond of lying in the middle of the floor or hallway and
forcing you to walk around him, make him move! He needs to
accommodate you, not the other way around.
4. Start restricting where your dog can go in the house. If he’s been used
to having the run of the house, bring a blanket or mattress into a single
room, such as the kitchen or family room, and command him to lay on
that. Give him the “Down – Stay” command, and make him remain
there. If he disobeys and gets up to resume his normal ramblings all
over the house, put him outside where’s he’s isolated from the rest of
the family. Leave him there for a few minutes, then let him back in and
again give him the “Down – Stay” command. Repeat until he realizes
that unless he responds to the command, he’ll be put outside.
5. When your dog demands attention by pawing, standing on the edge of

your chair or otherwise trying to gain your attention, ignore him. Give
him the “Down – Stay” command, and make him go lay on his bed or in
his den. Attention is yours to give, not his to take.
6. Never let your dog jump on people. If he does so in your home, put
him on his leash and give him the “Down – Stay” command. If he
persists in jumping, give him a snap and release on the leash and tell
him “No!”
7. Never let your dog sleep on your bed. The Alpha Dog gets to pick the
best spot to sleep in the house; the rest of the pack finds the second
most comfortable place.
8. Regularly touch your dog all over in a non-threatening manner.

Grooming is a good way to accomplish this – it allows the dog to
become used to being handled, while still seeming like a reward to

your dog, since most dogs enjoy being brushed.
9. Don’t play aggressive, rough and tumble games with your dog, such as
tug-of-war, because he’ll view such games as open warfare, and if he
wins, he’ll clearly be the dominant dog in that game. Stick to games
that are at your command: Fetch, Frisbee and the like. You choose
the game, you choose when to play, and you choose when to stop.
10. Teach your dog that this is your house – he owns nothing in it. All the
toys, all the food, all the bedding – everything is yours! If he’s
defensive about his bedding, don’t crowd him or turn it into a
confrontation, but make him understand that yes, that’s his bed, but it
really belongs to you. Pick it up during the day, and put it back down
when it’s time for him to go to bed, or when you want him to lie on his
blanket. Don’t let him beg for scraps from the table – that’s your food
and you’ll decide when he gets it.
11. Give your dominant dog plenty of physical exercise, if it’s appropriate
for his age, physical condition and breed. Let him burn off some of that
extra “dominant dog” energy, but only at a time when you tell him it’s
okay to do so!
A Final Note On Aggressive Dogs
Final Note On Aggressive Dogs
I can’t stress enough the importance of using non-violent means to turn your dog
from a dominant dog to a happier, more well-adjusted dog who understands that
you’re the Big Dog in the house. Unfortunately, some dog owners and trainers
use the excuse of maintaining dominance as justification for acting like tyrants
towards their dogs. I do NOT believe in hitting or psychologically abusing a
dog in order to train for any reason.
Too many times I’ve seen dominant dogs turned into dangerously aggressive
dogs by an owner who thought that physical dominance and control was the way
to correct dominant behavioral problems. Nothing could be further from the truth.
When you use physically abusive tactics on a dominant dog, his natural reaction
is to fight back against the perceived threat, and he’ll become even more
aggressive, and many times be pushed across that line from a dog that has
some dominant issues to one that represents a clear danger to the family.
If your dog exhibits aggressive behavior, or even aggressive tendencies, I

urge you to contact your vet or consult an animal-behaviorist
IMMEDIATELY!
An aggressive dog is a danger to you, to your family, to other people, other

animals, and to himself. It is not acceptable behavior. Seek help from your
veterinarian, a professional dog trainer or an animal-behaviorist IMMEDIATELY!
Chapter 9: 10 Basic Commands

For You And Your Dog To
Master
Now that you have a collar and leash, and an appreciation for how to correct your
dog, you are ready to start teaching your dog 10 basic, but powerful commands.
Master these, and you will be well on your way to building a better life for you and
your dog.
Remember to make training fun. Teach the skills one at a time. When you and
your dog master one skill, move on to the next one. Training, done properly and
with love, should be a treat for your dog and fun for you too!
The 10 Basic Commands you need to teach first are:
1. Come
2. Sit
3. Sit-Stay
4. (Lie) Down
5. Down-Stay
6. Heel With Immediate Sit
7. Fetch
8. Drop
9. Leave It
10. Say Hello
Remember, patience, consistency and plenty of practice are the keys to

effective training. Throw in a dollop of love and affection for your dog and
you’ll be well on the way to success.
The Reward System
Using a reward system when training your dog, especially at the beginning, is
essential to your success. You don’t have to use a large reward (a T-Bone isn’t
necessary – a doggie treat with some extravagant praise when your dog has
performed a task correctly is usually more than enough) but make sure you
reward your dog in some way shape or fashion to let him know that he did the
right thing. Eventually, replace the doggie treats with more praise, and as time
goes on, your dog will look less for treats and more for your praise.
A Training Note
Throughout this book, you’re meant to fill in the blank space before the command
with your dog’s name. For example, if I was working with P.T., and the book
directed me to say “____ COME,” I’d say “P.T. Come.”
Come
This command is one of the two most important commands you can teach your
dog, for obvious reasons. When this command is reliably learned, you’ll be able
to let your dog off the leash and know that you can get him to return to you in
almost any circumstances with a simple “Come” command and your dog’s name.
Start teaching your dog “Come” on his first day home. You can use either formal
or informal training methods to begin with – in this case, informal simply means
without a leash. Using the informal method, stand 4-5 feet from your dog and tell
him “_____, Come!” in a very happy voice. When your dog approaches you, pet
him lavishly, praise him, give him a hug, tell him “Good Boy!”, give him a treat –
in short, make a big fuss over him. Repeat this several times a day, until he
understands that responding to “Come” means he’ll be praised and petted.
Important note: make sure that responding to the “Come” command is always a
positive experience. Don’t ever call your dog to your side if you’re angry with
him, and only want him to respond so you can discipline him or yell at him. Think
of him as a kid; will a kid come to you when they know they’re going to get into
trouble? Of course not! Your dog is the same way. You want him to come to
you no matter what else is going on around him – when he does what you ask,
make sure you reward him with either a treat or praise every time.
For a more formal method of teaching your dog the “Come” command, put a
leash on him, and start walking with your dog at your side. As you’re in motion,
take a sudden step back or to the side, snap the lead to turn him toward you and
give him the “_____, Come!” command. Then walk backwards as he moves
toward you and encourage him to follow, repeating the command. Praise him
generously when he follows you. Repeat until he gets the idea that “Come”
means he should come with you.
The “Come” command should never be a contest of brute strength between you
and your dog – don’t drag him along with you – persuade him to follow you as
you repeat the command, and reward him with a treat or praise when he does.
I also have a variation that I’ve taught P.T. When he sees me stopped with my
hands folded in front of me holding his leash, he knows to come to me, even from
a great distance. Fact is, when he is off leash, he often checks back to see
where I am. If I am walking toward him, he feels free to keep going forward. If I
am stopped with my hands clasped, he knows to come to me, if he sees me point
in a different direction, he changes course accordingly, and if he sees another
dog, or a large group of people coming our way, he knows to come back to me
and come to heel unless I release him (“Good Dog. Go On!”)
Recap Of “Come” Command
1. Put your dog on a leash and begin walking.
2. While in motion, take a sudden step back or to the side.
3. Give the “_____, Come!” command.
4. Snap the lead to turn him toward you.
5. Begin walking backward as he moves toward you.
6. Encourage him to follow you.
7. Praise him lavishly or give him a treat when he follows
you.
8. Repeat several times a day until he understands the
command.
9. NEVER have your dog respond to the “Come” command if
you’re angry with him or want to discipline him.
Sit
This is usually one of the easier commands to teach your dog – most dogs pick it
up very quickly, and it’s the second most important command you can teach,
because it’s the foundation for many of the other commands.
Put your dog on his leash, and stand next to him, both of you facing the same
direction. (Your dog should be standing on all fours, and should be on your left
side.) Walk a few steps with your dog alongside, stop and give the command
“_____, Sit.” (Speak in a normal tone of voice.)
With your left hand, push down gently on his rear end until he sits. Your right
hand should be holding the leash, and holding his head in the proper “up”
position. When he’s sitting down and looking up at you, reward and praise him.
It’s important that you don’t push your dog into position, especially with
puppies. They have fragile, growing bones that you can damage by applying any
real force. Rather, your hand is meant to gently guide your dog to the sit
position.
Recap Of “Sit” Command
1. Leash your dog, and stand next to him facing the same
direction.
2. Your dog should be standing and positioned on your left
side.
3. Walk a few steps, stop and give the command “_____,
Sit.”
4. Use a soft and normal tone of voice.
5. Place your left hand on your dog’s hind quarters, gently
guiding him to the sit position.
6. With your right hand, use the leash to hold his head in the
proper “up” position.
7. When he’s sitting down and looking up at you, reward and
praise him.
Sit-Stay
Once your dog has mastered the “Sit” command, it’s time to move on to the
“Stay” portion of this command.
I often reinforce this command with P.T. when we are out on a walk. I simply tell
him to “Sit.” And then I tell him to “Stay.” I walk away, about 20 to 25 feet or so.
He wants to follow so he is extremely attentive. After about 25 feet, I turn back
and look at him, and then call him to me.
P.T. also responds to a hand signal, and will remain in the sit position whether I
walk forward, or do an entire circle with a radius of 30 feet of more around him.
When I slap my hand on my left hip, he knows to come to heel.
Let’s look at how you might be able to do the same with your dog.
Give your dog the “Sit” command. You want him

sitting in the heel position next to your left knee. Hold
your left hand, palm open, 6-12 inches in front of his
face as you give the “Stay” command, then take one
step forward.
Don’t try to make him stay for more than a few

seconds at first. He’ll be watching you with great
interest, and will want to follow immediately as you
take a step forward. If he moves from his sitting
position, say, “No, Sit” and place him back in his sitting position. Now give the
“Stay” command again. When he stays in position for even a few seconds,
praise and reward him.
You can gradually increase the distance you walk away from him and the length
of time you want him to stay in position.
Once you have mastered that, try walking in a circle around your dog after you
give the “Sit-Stay” command. Your goal is to get him to sit and stay as you
describe a full circle. Your dog’s head will swivel around as your walk around
him, but the point is to keep him sitting. Repeat the “Stay” command if you must
as your circle around your dog.
You probably won’t be successful at first, but, trust me, with practice, you and
your dog will master this command. And guess what? When you’re out for a
walk in the park, and do regular training on this command, people will stop and
watch with amazement at how well you can control your dog.
Important note: You also need to have a “release” phrase that you use with
your dog, so he knows when he can move or come to you or get up – something
that tells him it’s okay to move. I use the pat on my left leg, or “Come to Heel’ if I
want P.T. to come to heel, or “Okay, go on” if I am going to let him run free. I
know another trainer that uses “You’re through.” It really doesn’t matter what
phrase you use, as long as it’s short, distinct and easy for your dog to
understand. Be sure to use this same phrase at the end of every lesson, or
every command.
Another cool training tip: practice your “release” phrase 10-15 times per day in
the following situations:
• Any time your dog approaches a door to the outside.

• A gate.
• Any other “escape” route where your dog has a path to the outside world.
”Okay, go on,” is a great command to use with your dog, because it teaches him
he can’t go through doors or gates without being released. P.T. for example,
never leaves the backyard without being released. He literally will stay for days
at a time with an open gate, never charging through it and running away. Pretty
cool, huh? With proper training and lots of practice, your dog should do the
same.
Recap Of “Sit-Stay” Command
1. Have your dog come to “Sit” by your left knee.
2. Hold your left hand, palm open, 6-12 inches in front of his
face as you give the “Stay” command.
3. Take one step forward.
4. If he moves from the sit position to follow you, return him
to the sit position and start again.
5. Begin with small periods of time – even a few seconds –
that you want him to stay in position.
6. When he stays (even for a few seconds) reward and
praise him.
7. Gradually increase the distance you walk away from him.
8. Gradually increase the time you want him to stay in
position.
9. Once you have mastered the basic “Sit-Stay” command,
try giving the “Sit-Stay” command and then walking away

from your dog in different directions – right, left, backwards
or in a full circle around your dog.
10. And once you’ve mastered moving in different directions,
train your dog with just hand signals, and no verbal

commands at all.
Lie Down
This is a really valuable command for your dog to

know, particularly when you’re sitting around the
living room. Dogs are social animals, and P.T. is no
exception, especially when there are guests. But
when I or my guest have had enough visiting and
socialization, I simply say, “O.K., P.T., go lie down,” and he backs up and goes to
lie down, either on the floor or his favorite bean bag doggy bed; the choice is his.
When first training this command, start with the “Sit” command. Have your dog
sit next to you (on your left side.) Stand over him, or kneel next to him and take
one of his front paws in your hand. Give him the “Down” or “Lie Down”
command, while gently moving his paw out from his body. Alternate paws until
he is in the down position. While you’re moving his paws out and down, use your
left hand to put gentle pressure on his back at the shoulder blades, to encourage
him to move in a downward motion. Gently! Once he is fully in the down
position, have him remain in position for a few seconds, and then release him.
Reward and praise him, and repeat until he understands the “Down” command
without any pressure of your hand on his shoulder blades.
Recap of “Down” Command
1. Have your dog follow the “Sit” command.
2. You should be positioned next to him (with him on your left
side.)
3. Stand over him, or kneel next to him and take one of his
front paws in your hand.
4. Give him the “_____, Down” or “_____, Lie Down”
command.
5. As you give him the command, move his paw out and
away from his body.
6. Alternate moving his paws out and down until he is fully in
the down position, and exert gentle pressure with your

other hand on his shoulder blades.
7. Once he’s fully in the down position, have him remain in
position for a few seconds, then release him.
8. Reward and praise him.
9. Gradually increase the time you require him to remain in
the down position.
Lie Down - Stay
This command combines three previous commands into one – “Sit”, “Stay” and
“Lie Down.” The goal of this command is to have your dog lie
down and stay in position until you release him, regardless of
how far away you get from him, or how long you want him to
stay down.
This command also starts with the “Sit” command. Have your
dog sit next to you (on your left side.) Have him respond to
the “Down” or “Lie Down” command. Once he’s down, hold your palm out in front
of his face and give him the “Stay” command. Walk away about 5 – 6 steps,
keeping him in the Down-Stay position. Since he already should know the “Stay”
command, you can release him after a short period of time, and praise and
reward him.
Gradually increase the distance you walk away from him, until you are about 30
feet away. Praise and reward him at each stage as you increase the distance
between you and the length of time he’s required to stay in position.
Recap Of “Down-Stay” Command
1. Have your dog “Sit” to your left.
2. Give him the “Lie Down” command.
3. Once he’s down, hold your palm out 6-12 inches from the
front of his face and give him the “Stay” command.
4. Walk away about 5 – 6 steps, keeping him in the Down-
Stay position.
5. Release him after a short period of time.
6. Praise and reward him.
7. Gradually increase the distance you back away from him,
until you’re about 30 feet away.
8. Praise and reward him at each stage, as you increase the
distance between you, and the length of time he’s required

to stay in position.
9. Once you have mastered the basic “Down-Stay”
command, try giving the “Down-Stay” command and then

walking away from your dog in different directions – right,
left, backwards or in a full circle around your dog.
10. And once you’ve mastered moving in different directions,
train your dog with just hand signals, and no verbal

commands at all.
This is not what I had in mind!
Heel
To have your dog trained to a “Heel” command is absolutely essential if you’re

going to take your dog out in public, and who doesn’t do that? I’m going to show
you 3 variations of the “Heel” command: (1) The Basic Heel, (2) Heel with an
Immediate Sit, and (3) a variation I use with P.T. – Come to Heel at Curb.
1. Basic Heel
Let’s start off with the basic “Heel” command. Leash up your dog and
start off with him on your left side. Start walking (very important – start
with your left leg as the first step.) Why the left leg? Because that will be
a signal to your dog that he should heel at that point. Trust me on this one
– if you alternate legs as you start walking, it will only confuse your dog!
As you start walking, give him the command to “_____, Heel,” while
simultaneously giving a light snap and release on his leash to encourage
him to come along with you.
Note: When heeling, a good spot for your dog to walk is with his
front legs and shoulders even with your knees.
Don’t drag him along if he doesn’t immediately follow; instead use the
snap and release method on his leash to gain his attention. The leash
should be relaxed between you and your dog – he shouldn’t be straining
away, tugging or pulling. If you feel any pressure on the leash, your dog
isn’t in the proper position at heel, and you should use the snap and
release to correct.
2. Heel With Immediate Sit
The immediate sit occurs when I stop walking. P.T. knows to stop at any
curb. When off-leash, on our normal walk, he comes flying across an
open field to me as I stand on the sidewalk at a place where 5 different
roads come together. He bounds over, sits right next to me, and looks
across the road. He only crosses when told to, and will do so on heel, or
go straight across depending on whether I tell him to “Heel,” or say “O.K.,
go on.” If I tell him to go on, he darts across the street at full speed. In all
honesty, P.T. doesn’t like to be in the street, with traffic nearby, and
though he minds particularly well here, he is often anxious to get across
the street and away from traffic.
Give your dog the “Heel” command and proceed walking. Just before you
get ready to stop, switch the leash over to your right hand. When you
come to a stop, make sure it’s a quick one, so your dog gets used to
responding to your moves quickly.
Come to a stop, and immediately pull up on the leash with your right hand,
while simultaneously giving your dog the “Sit” command. Praise him
lavishly when he performs correctly. Practice this for 10 – 15 minutes per
training session, and your dog will soon get the idea what he’s supposed
to do when he’s on “heel” and what he’s supposed to do when you come
to a stop. He’ll also get to know that when you transfer the leash to your
right hand, you’re about to stop.
3. Come To Heel At Curb
I use a small variation on this command with P.T. every day! Whenever
we arrive at a street curb, P.T. knows he cannot cross unless he comes to
heel and then sits. It’s very impressive when we go for a walk. There’s a
local lake nearby with a big open field. If P.T. is off-leash at this point in
our walk, as soon as he sees me arrive at the crosswalk, he gallops over
at full tilt, comes to a heel and sits. Motorists gape slack-jawed at my

control! We cross the street on heel, I release him, and he takes off after
the squirrels.
This little variation means P.T. will not cross a street without permission
when he is off-leash. When he comes to a street curb ahead of me, he’ll
often walk to the curb, sit, and wait for me to arrive. I come up so that he
is in the heel position, and we cross when appropriate.
He performs this simple patterned behavior without thinking twice. And is

praised for it every time. It keeps him safe, motorists safe, and gives me a
guilty pleasure as pedestrians and motorists alike wonder at my well-
trained companion.
Warning: Don’t try this with your dog unless you know, beyond a shadow
of a doubt that your dog will behave perfectly every time! Remember, P.T.
has had the benefit of 7 years of consistent training. Trust me, he didn’t
start out minding every command, and needed persistent, consistent
training to get to where he is. And even then, I monitor closely to check
him in case he should forget.
Recap Of “Heel With Immediate Sit” Command
1. Leash your dog up and start off with him on your left side.
2. Start walking (remember – start with your left leg for the
first step!) and give your dog the command, “_____, Heel!”
while simultaneously giving a light snap and release on his
leash.
3. Proper positioning for your dog to heel is with his front legs
and shoulders even with your knees.
4. Don’t drag him along if he doesn’t follow – instead use a
snap and release method on his leash to gain his

attention. The leash should be relaxed between you and
your dog; he shouldn’t be straining or tugging or pulling in
any way. Use the snap and release method to correct if
he is.
5. When preparing to stop, transfer the leash into your right
hand.
6. Come to a quick stop, while simultaneously giving your
dog the “Sit” command.
7. Praise and reward him when he does it correctly. Practice
this lesson for 10-15 minutes per lesson and your dog will
soon come to know what he’s supposed to do when on
heel, and what he’s supposed to do when you stop.
Fetch (Or Go Get It)
My dog Schaffer was a champion Frisbee catcher. He was a stray we took in

and had for 11 years. A mix between a lab and a bit of (perhaps) Belgian
shepherd, he was one of the best Frisbee dogs I’ve ever seen. I’d take him to a
large open area, toss a flat Frisbee as far as I could (and some people joke that I
majored in Frisbee tossing at college!) and he’d take after it at full sprint, jumping
at the last moment high in the air to catch the “bee” in mid-flight. Then he’d race
back, drop the Frisbee at my feet, and hope for another toss. A true thing of
beauty!
But do you want to know a secret? The first time I tossed the Frisbee to him, he
stood there and it bopped him in the nose! He wondered what he had done
wrong!! The second time, he jumped out of the way.
The moral of this little story?
Even natural retrievers like labs need some training when it comes to “fetching.”
But almost any dog can be taught to “fetch.” Here’s how:
Start with the toy he likes the best. Have your dog on a long leash. Get his
attention focused on the toy, then throw it a short distance and give him the
command “_____, Fetch!” or “Go Get!” and allow him to go after the toy. When
he picks it up, give him the “Come” command, and hold out a treat as a reward
for him. When he approaches, give him the reward in exchange for the toy.
Important Note: It’s important that your dog give you the toy willingly - you don’t
want to turn this into a tug-of-war between you and your dog.
Once your dog brings the toy back to you reliably, take him off-leash and have
him retrieve the toy on his own. Continue to reward and praise him each time he
brings the toy to you.
Once he has learned the “Fetch” command reliably, increase his vocabulary by
adding specific items to the end of the fetch command. For example, try using
“Fetch ball” or “Fetch Frisbee.” Take it slowly, but gradually teach him the names
of individual items, so you can tell him to fetch a specific item.
Want to test how smart your dog is? When he’s learned the Fetch command
thoroughly, and has learned the names of specific items to fetch, lay 4 or 5 items
on the ground, and tell him to fetch one of the items in particular, such as “Fetch
the blue ball,” or “Fetch the paper.” Continue practicing with him until he can pick
out the item you want each time, then continue to add more items to his
vocabulary.
One Border Collie named “Rico” was recently reported to know the names of
more than 200 objects. What’s more, he was able to learn the names of new
objects in just 1 try, by a process of elimination. More importantly, he was shown
to remember the name of the new object more than 4 weeks later when retested.
The thing is, researchers can’t figure out whether all dogs are capable of learning
in this way, or whether Rico is the Albert Einstein of all dogs!
Can your dog be the next Rico? You can start by teaching him to Fetch!
Recap Of “Fetch” Command
1. Start with your dog on his leash, and his favorite toy.
2. Get your dog’s attention and then throw the toy a short
distance away, giving him the “_____, Fetch!” or “Go Get!”

command.
3. When he picks up the toy, give him the “Come” command,
and hold out a treat for him.
4. When he approaches, give him the reward in exchange for
the toy.
5. It’s important the dog give you the toy willingly – don’t turn it
into a tug-of-war.
6. Continue to reward and praise him each time he brings the
toy to you.
Drop It
This can be another component to the “Fetch” command sequence, or it can

apply in situations where you’re out for a hike and your dog brings back a stick or
other item for you. The goal of this command is to get your dog to drop whatever
he has in his mouth, whether it’s a ball, a stick or a toy.
If your dog is bringing you something in response to the “Fetch” command, just
before you exchange the item with his treat, give him the “Drop” or “Drop It”
command. When he drops the item, give him the treat. Note: this is different
than when he brings the item to you willingly and you take it out of his mouth and
give him his treat. In this case, you’re asking him to drop the item at your feet,
rather than taking it from his mouth.
If your dog brings you a stick or some other item while on a hike (or any time he’s
off-leash), give him the “Drop” command and give him a reward from the
unending supply of treats you carry in your pockets. Lavishly praise him when he
drops the item at your feet.
Recap Of “Drop It” Command
1. If your dog brings you an item in response to the “Fetch”
command, just before you exchange the item for his treat,
give him the “_____, Drop” or “_____, Drop It” command.
2. When he drops the item, give him the treat.
3. Remember this is different than when he brings an item to you
willingly and you take it out of his mouth and give him the
treat. With this command, you want him to drop the item at
your feet.
4. As soon as he drops the item, give him the reward and praise
him lavishly.
Leave It
The difference between “Leave It” and “Drop It” is that “Drop It” can be used
when playing games like Fetch, whereas “Leave it” is meant for the animal to
walk away from something and not touch it anymore. Useful, for example, when
your dog finds bones, or as P.T. often does, chews on a dead squirrel! I tell him
to “Leave It!” and he (generally) will drop it and walk away from it. (I must admit
that, when it comes to dead squirrels, P.T. is quite good with this command, but
not perfect!)
Start with your dog on a leash. Give him the “Sit – Stay” command. Place a
piece of food (like a piece of hot dog, or something different from his usual
reward treat) on the ground, and make sure he sees you do it. Walk by the treat
with him, close enough for him to sniff the treat, but when he tries to sniff it or
even eat it, give a snap and release on his leash and tell him “_____, Leave it!”
When he leaves the treat, reward him with his usual reward treat – not the item
on the floor. You’ll only confuse him if you reward him with the item you’re trying
to get him to leave alone! Gradually add items, both food and non-food, inside
the house and outside, until he successfully leaves an item when you give him
the command.
Recap Of “Leave It” Command
1. Start with your dog on his leash, and give him the “Sit-Stay
command.”
2. Place a piece of food on the floor, and let him see you do it.
3. Walk by the treat close enough for him to sniff it or even eat
it, and when he tries to sniff it, give a snap and release on
his leash and give the command “_____, Leave it!”
4. When he leaves the treat, give him his usual reward – not
the piece of food on the floor you’re trying to get him to

leave alone!
Say Hello
This command makes sure your dog will only approach other people or other
dogs if it is told to “say hello”.
When we take P.T. for a walk, he knows not to approach other people, or other
dogs, because he’s been trained that way.
That makes it more comfortable for us to walk him off-leash. We know he will
pass right by people, and not run after other dogs. But if told to “Say Hello” he
knows it’s okay for him to approach other people or dogs.
“Say Hello” can be taught in two different settings: at home, or out in public. To
teach this command at home, have someone come to the front door, and either
knock or ring the bell. Give your dog the “Sit – Stay” command, and have him sit
3 – 5 feet from the door while you open it and let the person in. When the person
is standing inside the door, give your dog the “Say Hello” command. Let your
dog come forward and sniff the person’s hand and greet them.
To teach this command out in public, leash up your dog and begin walking, using
the “Heel” command. When you encounter another person or dog, give your dog
the “Sit - Stay” command until the person or dog approaches, then give him the
“Say Hello” command to let him know it’s okay to approach the other person or
dog. If your dog displays any aggression (growling, snarling, etc.) give a snap
and release on his leash, and return him to the “Sit - Stay” position. Do this with
every person or dog you encounter on your walk, and soon he’ll get to know
when it’s okay for him to approach someone you encounter.
In either case, once the introductory encounter has lasted long enough – 10
seconds, 1 minute, depending on the situation, release your dog by saying
“Okay,” or “That’s enough,” or some other release command that tells him he’s
said hello long enough. Then give him his reward and praise.
Recap Of “Say Hello” Command
1. Start off with your dog on his leash and begin walking,
using the “Heel” command.
2. When you encounter another person or dog, give your dog
the “Sit – Stay” command until the person or dog

approaches, then give him the “Say Hello” command.
3. If your dog displays any aggression, give a snap and
release on his leash, and return him to the Sit – Stay

position.
4. Give him the “Say Hello” command with each person or
dog you want him to greet, and soon he’ll get to know
when it’s okay for him to approach another dog or person.
5. When you judge the encounter has lasted long enough,
give him the release command and reward and praise him.
Congratulations! Reward your dog with a treat!! If you’ve followed the book in a
step-by-step fashion, you and your dog have now mastered the following 10
Basic Commands:
10 Basic Commands
You And Your Dog Have Mastered
Come
Sit
Sit-Stay
Lie Down
Lie Down-Stay
Heel with Immediate Sit
Fetch (or Go Get)
Drop It
Leave It
Say Hello
You may want to move on to teaching your dog further commands, but if you and
your dog have mastered these 10 basic commands, you have established a
foundation of trust and understanding that can lead to a long-term, rewarding
relationship between you and your dog.
Chapter 10: Games, Tricks And

Mind Teasers
Obedience training isn’t the only type of training you can give your dog – if you’re
into serious competition you can go in for agility training, Schutzhund, Frisbee
competitions, dog shows, field trials and a boatload of other types of contests.
But if you’re more interested in just having a lot of fun with your dog, here are
some great ways to pass the time, keep your dog active and alert and forge a
closer bond between the two of you.
6 Games To Play With Your Dog
There are a wide variety of games you can play with your dog – from the old
standards like Tug-of-War (more about that shortly) to soccer to throwing a
Frisbee. While playing games can develop new skills for your dog, the whole
purpose of a game is to have fun – and it’s amazing how many people forget
that!
Everyone needs down time – you and your dog – so don’t make every interaction
you have with your pet a training session – have some fun, too!
1. Soap Bubbles
This doesn’t work with every dog – some dogs are afraid of the bubbles,
or just don’t get it – but when it works, it’s a great game. It seems to be
especially popular with the smaller, more hyper breeds, although I have a
friend with a Great Dane that loves to play with bubbles. Get a bottle of
non-toxic bubbles, and encourage your dog to try and catch them as they
float through the air. An important note: this can be played either indoors
or outdoors. (Just watch the furniture and breakables if you’re playing it
indoors.) It can be a great workout for your dog if he gets interested.
2. Balloons
You have to be careful with this game for a couple of reasons: first, don’t
play with balloons if you’re using “balloon aversion therapy” in training
your dog to stay off the furniture, for example, because it will only confuse
him. And some dogs don’t take to this game at all, because when the
balloons pop, as they eventually will, it scares him. (Which is why you use
it for keeping him off the couch!)
But if he’s the type that enjoys popping the balloons, fill several partially
full of air – enough so they’ll float when batted around, but not so full as to
pop the instant they’re touched. Swat a balloon across the room or yard,
and encourage your dog to catch it.
Important note: This game requires close supervision on your part,

because when the balloon eventually gets popped, you must immediately
retrieve all the pieces – don’t let your dog swallow them! And if you’re
playing this game outside, make sure you pick up the pieces so the birds
or other wildlife don’t get hold of them.
3. Tug Of War
There is some controversy to playing tug of war with your dog – it can
encourage your dog to challenge your authority – especially if he’s
stronger than you are. He’ll see it as a contest pitting your strength
against his, and if you lose, you’ve lost ground as the leader of your pack.
But if you’ve already firmly established who’s the Leader of the Pack in
your house and you’re not dealing with those issues, then a game of tug a
war shouldn’t create problems. Get a sturdy rope toy, grasp one end and
give the other end to your dog. Note: don’t play this game until your
puppy has his adult teeth fully grown in! And if you have a breed that’s
known to have dental problems, such as English Bulldogs, take a pass on
playing this game with him.
Note the bite marks on the soccer ball
4. Soccer Or Football
It’s not as hard as you think to teach your dog soccer or football – of
course, they won’t know the scoring rules or typically try to hit the ball with
their head, and they’re definitely not into field goals… but you can still
have fun with this. You can use one of two types of soccer balls: a
standard ball that you’ll need to teach your dog how to maneuver with his
feet and legs, or a squishy, foam-type ball that he can pick up with his
teeth. Important note: this isn’t a good game to play indoors!
Set up a goal post or soccer cage at one end of the yard. (This can start
off as a game of “Fetch” and proceed from there.) If you’ve already
trained your dog how to Fetch, start by kicking the ball gently in the
direction of your dog, and give him a different command than “Fetch” to
bring it back to the goal, such as “Kick it,” or “Hike it,” or “Take it home.”
(Home being the goal.) Demonstrate what you want by kicking the ball in
small increments back to the goal, all the while giving him the command
that you choose. It may take him a while to get the hang of it, because
he’ll start off thinking you want to play Fetch, but be patient and use a
different command than Fetch. Even if he picks the ball up with his mouth,
that’s okay, because you can then direct him to the goal, where you’ll give
him the “Drop it,” command. When he drops the ball at the goal, praise
him lavishly. Once he understands the game, you’ll find that he’ll try to
elude your body blocks as you try to prevent him from “taking it home.”
5. Remote Control Cars
This is a great way to recycle those expensive toys you got for Christmas
that no one uses anymore, but you have to have a large place to play this
game, and you can’t care if the car gets totaled in the process.
Dogs like to chase anything that moves, and remote control cars, with
their sudden stops and starts, can be an intriguing way of capturing your
dog’s interest. Start outside in a flat area, like a driveway or parking lot,
and buzz the car in front of your dog, being careful not to run over his feet,
or run the car directly into him. This isn’t a demolition derby, and your dog
isn’t a target. What you’re trying to do is get your dog to chase the car as it
moves around. Be careful, though, as with the balloon game, you don’t
want your dog to capture the car and start chewing it to bits – small pieces
that come off can present a choking hazard.
6. Frisbee
One of the favorite things I ever taught my dog Schaffer to do was to play
Frisbee. It was simply the most fun thing we did together, and we did it for
years on end.
Frisbee is just a small variation on fetch. As I told you earlier, I taught

Schaffer how to play Frisbee by simply tossing the “bee” at him. The first
time, it bopped him in the nose. The second time, he jumped out of the
way. And the third time, he caught it between his teeth. And we never
looked back!
Once he learned it was okay to catch the Frisbee, he was insatiable. He’d
drop the platter at my feet, and then chase my toss, wherever it went, for
hours and hours on end. I don’t think he ever grew tired.
This was terrific exercise for Schaffer, and great fun for me. The only
downside? Trying to convince Schaffer that he couldn’t chase other
people’s Frisbees in the park!
5 Tricks To Teach Your Dog
Some of these tricks have other uses than just looking cool. For example,
teaching your dog to jump over or walk under another dog can be useful in agility
training, or pole weaving can help improve flexibility. Others, of course, are
completely useless, other than it’s a cool trick for your dog to learn.
1. Biscuit On The Nose
Use a dog biscuit or cookie or some kind of treat for this one. Hold your
dog’s muzzle shut, and give him a “Stay” or “Leave it” command. Then
release his muzzle and step back. He must leave the treat balanced on his
nose until you give him the release command: “Okay,” or “Take it” or
whatever you choose as his release. He should either drop the treat on
the ground and eat it, or ideally, toss the treat into the air, catch it and eat
it – but that usually takes some time for him to get the idea for that part.
(Schaffer was great at this; P.T. is hopeless!)
2. Find It
This is good practice if you’re at all interested in training your dog for
tracking or search and rescue in the future. The whole idea of this trick is
to encourage your dog to use his nose to find hidden objects. Start with
simple exercises – hold a treat up so your dog can see it, then let him
watch you hide it – if you’re in the house put it under a rug (but make sure
he can get to it) or behind a plant – if you’re outside put it on top of a
garden chair or behind the barbecue. If he tries to follow you when you’re
hiding it, give him the “Stay” command, and don’t release him until you’ve
hidden the treat. Then release him, and give him the command “Find it.”
Praise him lavishly when he goes to the treat.
Gradually work your way up to harder items – get two small balls, tennis
ball size, in white and blue (remember the colors that your dog can
perceive?) Show him each of the balls, but identify them before you hide
them. “White ball” or “Blue ball.” Then hide both, and tell him, “Find the
white ball.” Only praise and reward when he brings you the correct ball.
Have patience with this one, but soon he’ll begin to recognize the different
words that apply to each ball.
3. Jump Over
If you have at least two dogs, you can train both of them to do this trick.
Of course, it might look a little silly if you have a Great Dane and a
Chihuahua…!
Have Dog “A” in a “Stay – Down” position. Have the other dog (Dog “B”)
stand next to the down dog. Take a treat and hold it on the other side of
Dog A, and give Dog B the “Over” command. Dog B should jump over the
back of Dog A – whereupon you give him a treat and lavish praise. And
don’t forget to praise Dog A – otherwise he’ll get jealous and want the
treat all for himself next time.
After Dog B has successfully jumped Dog A several times, reverse their
positions and try a few more times.
Note: this trick is especially impressive to friends and family if you have 4
to 6 dogs trained to jump over sequentially.
4. Pole Weave
This trick has the added benefit of improving your dog’s flexibility. Set up a
series of poles (if you have them) or traffic cones, or use several lengths
of PVC pipe stuck upright in the lawn. Put your dog on-leash, and lead
him through the poles, weaving in and out around each one. Give him a
command as you’re doing this other than “Heel,” – try “Weave” or
something similar.
When you get to the end of the poles, give him a treat, and then go back
through the poles, giving him the same command. Practice this numerous
times until he understands what you mean by “weave” or whatever
command you use. Then take him off leash, and you stand at one end of
the poles – giving him the “weave” command. After he goes through the
poles correctly on his own, praise him lavishly and give him a treat.
5. Walk Under
This trick works best if you have a smaller dog and a larger dog. It’s
similar to the jump over trick, just in reverse. Have the larger dog stand on
all-fours (no sitting allowed!) and give the smaller dog the command to
“walk under.” Hold a treat on the other side of the larger dog so the
smaller dog will have incentive. When the smaller dog successfully goes
under the larger dog, praise and reward them both.
3 Brain Teasers To Test Your Dog’s I.Q.
Okay, these aren’t technically I.Q. tests for your dog, but they can be fun
exercises to see just how intuitive your dog is and how well he solves problems.
Note: these are strictly for fun!
1. The Towel Test
This test should demonstrate how well your dog can solve problems.
Take a regular-sized bath towel and gently toss it over your dog’s head. If
he shakes it off within 5 seconds, give him 10 points. If it takes him up to
30 seconds, give him 5 points. If you have to take it off of him, give him 1
point. (P.T. loves this in the backyard after a bath!)
2. Find The Treat Test
This is another problem-solving test. Put a doggie treat under a table or

chair or somewhere that your dog can only get it out with his paw – not his
head. (Let him see you put the treat there.) Then tell him to find the treat.
If he uses his paw and retrieves the treat within 1 minute, give him 10
points. If he uses his paw and his muzzle to retrieve the treat, give him 5
points. If he gives up immediately and makes you retrieve the treat, give
him 50 points (just kidding!)
3. Through The Barrier Test
Tape a large piece of cardboard across a doorway (it should be just

slightly taller than your dog.) Standing on the same side as the barrier as
your dog, show him a treat then toss the treat over the barrier onto the
other side, and tell him to retrieve the treat. If he jumps over the
cardboard within 1 minute, give him 10 points. If he plows through the
barrier, give him 5 points. If he sits on your side of the barrier and whines,
give him 1 point.
Scoring
30 or more points – give it up, your dog is probably smarter than you are!
25 to 29 points – your dog is above average in intelligence, maybe
college material
18 to 24 points – your dog is about average, middle of the pack
10 to 17 points – not the sharpest knife in the drawer, but who cares?
He loves you.
1 to 9 points – your dog should probably be attending remedial
doggy classes
Chapter 11: Biting And Nipping

Biting problems and nipping problems are the single biggest complaint I hear
from dog owners, which is why I’m devoting an entire chapter to it. We’ll go on to
some of the other more common behavioral problems in the next chapter, but
first let’s deal with this one, because it’s a biggie.
Puppy Nipping
Here’s a news flash – puppies nip!
Okay, I guess you already knew that. But here’s the surprise – you may actually
be encouraging your puppy to nip. Let’s talk about how to stop this behavior
before it grows up to be an adult-sized dog problem.
Puppies are a lot like babies – they use their mouths in part to explore their
world. Little kids are forever sticking things in their mouth – from your favorite
house plant to the bar of soap in the tub. That’s one of the ways they experience
taste and texture, and figure out what’s good and what’s not. It’s all about
experimentation.
Puppies are the same. They want to see just how soft your finger is, or what that
leash tastes like. In addition, biting or nipping is an important part of learning
social skills in their “wolf” pack – the social structure that makes up your dog’s
life.
And with some breeds, such as Border Collies, biting or nipping is even more
instinctive because of the nature of the breed – they’re born and bred to herd
livestock, and that’s how a 50 or 60 pound dog will control a 1,000 pound cow –
by biting at the heels or nose.
If your dog was allowed to remain with mom and his littermates for an
appropriate amount of time (until at least 8 weeks of age), then mom should have
taught him the beginnings of bite inhibition. As the pups began to grow and
develop those needle-sharp little puppy teeth, mom would have disciplined him
for being too rough, either with her or his littermates. Junior soon learns that all
play will stop and he’ll get smacked down by mom if he gets carried away.
But when you get that puppy home, and he becomes part of the family, you may
be encouraging him to nip by letting the kids run away from him, squealing and
giggling in an effort to play “chase” games. While this is cute at the beginning, it
can soon turn into a full-fledged problem when he’s no longer such a small, cute
puppy, and views any child running away as fair game.
You can also encourage this kind of bad behavior by teasing him with toys –
holding them just above his head and yanking them out of range when he jumps
for the toy or nips at it. (This also encourages another bad habit: jumping.)
5 Ways To Stop Your Puppy From Nipping
Here are five quick tips that can help, uh, nip this problem in the bud! (Sorry, I
just couldn’t resist!)
1. When Your Puppy Does Nip – Stop All Play Immediately
If your puppy nips too hard, say “Ouch!” in a loud-enough voice to surprise
him (don’t start off by screaming, but it should be loud and sharp) and stop
all play. Turn your back on him, and refuse to continue the game. He
should come around to face you and find out what’s wrong – tell him “bad
dog – no bite” in a firm tone of voice. Do this every time he nips until he
gets the idea that nipping means no more fun.
When your dog understands that he’s “mortally wounded” you, and you’ve
stopped all play, wait a few minutes then give your dog a chew bone, but
don’t resume playing with him. This gives him an alternative to chew on
and at the same time teaches him that when he bites, you don’t play
anymore.
2. Replace Your Flesh With A Toy
When you’ve resumed play (not right away – see above) and if your puppy
tries to nip again, try replacing your hand or arm (or whatever’s being
nipped) with a toy. Teach your puppy that you’re not the toy. Put a toy in
between you and those needle-sharp teeth! Give him an acceptable
alternative to chew on.
3. The Nose Tap
If your puppy nips, turn to him immediately and give him the “sit”
command. Take your forefinger and hold it up in front of his nose, then
tap him on the nose and say “no bite” in a stern tone of voice. It’s
important to note two things here: 1) the nose tap isn’t designed as a dire
punishment – you’re not trying to hurt him, but rather startle him into
stopping the behavior; and 2) your tone of voice is just as important as the
nose tap. Don’t scream at him – your voice should be stern and give a
clear warning – think of it as a verbal growl – something that he can
understand as a dog.
A simple nose tap will do - don’t hit, strike or slap your dog in the face, as
this can have some unintended consequences, such as making your dog
“head shy” and flinching or cowering any time you lift your hand around
him; or becoming afraid of you, meaning he either won’t come to you at all
or he’ll become defensive, and try to bite you to defend himself.
An interesting result of this manner of breaking this habit is that down the
road, when your puppy has learned to recognize the raised finger – he’ll
usually stop whatever behavior he’s engaging in just because he knows
what’s coming. You won’t even have to raise your voice – just lift that
finger.
4. Don’t Encourage Nipping In The First Place
Don’t let the kids start “chase” games – that encourages dogs to think that
the kids are prey. Don’t play games that involve waving your hands in
front of your dog and encouraging him to jump or nip.
Don’t play tug-of-war with your dog if you have a nipping problem – it will
not only encourage him to think he’s your equal, it can promote nipping if
you use a rope toy, for example, because he’ll try to bite at your hands to
make you lose your grip on the toy.
Play games of fetch and retrieval, but be sure that your dog knows the
“drop” or “release” command so you’re not fighting over the toy.
It’s very important that you supervise the kids at all times when you have a
new puppy, because a child’s first reaction to being nipped is to push the
dog away with their hands and arms. Your puppy might interpret this as
playing, and may actually be encouraged to nip.
5. Be Consistent
Stop the nipping behavior as soon as it starts, and be consistent about

disciplining your puppy for it. Don’t let him get away with nipping on one
day, and then discipline him for the same behavior the next. Dogs don’t
understand “sometimes it’s okay,” or “maybe it’s okay if you don’t nip too
hard and I’m in a good mood.” They understand “Don’t ever do that,” and
“No more treats if you do that.”
Adult Nipping Or Biting
Having an adult dog that nips or bites is different from a puppy that displays this
behavioral problem. Not only because their jaws are stronger and their teeth
longer and more capable of inflicting real damage, but because the psychological
conditioning that encourages biting is more ingrained, and thus harder to break.
Biting in adult dogs generally stems from different forms of aggression. Let’s
take a look at the different types of aggression, where it comes from, and what
you can do about it.
Dog aggression is behavior that is meant to intimidate or harm a person or

another animal, such as biting, growling, baring teeth, snarling or snapping. And
although aggressive behaviors are normal for dogs while they’re in their “wolf
packs” such behaviors aren’t acceptable in your house. Because we
communicate differently from dogs, misunderstandings can occur as to the
message that we’re both trying to communicate. Dogs aren’t necessarily
psychotic or vicious or crazy when they display aggressive behavior.
There are three essential types of aggression: fear-based, dominance and

protective or territorial.
1. Fear Based Aggression
Fear-based aggression is a defensive reaction and usually occurs when a

dog thinks he’s in danger. Whether or not he’s actually in danger is
beside the point – it’s his belief that he’s in danger is what’s important
here.
For example, you may raise your arm to throw a ball, but your dog, seeing
the raised arm as a threat, bites you because he believes he is protecting
himself from being hit.
Another example would be when a dog becomes fearfully aggressive

when approached by other dogs that he believes are there for the sole
purpose of kicking his butt. It’s a little like the “I’ll get you before you get
me” mindset.
2. Dominance Aggression
Dominance aggression stems from the “pecking order” or social order in

your pack. If your dog is unsure of his standing in your pack, he may
challenge you for the leadership position.
This can happen if you’ve allowed your dog to assume the Leader of the
Pack role, and are now trying to regain that position, or if you bring a new
dog into the house that was the Leader of the Pack in his former home. In
either case, you may see behaviors such as growling or snapping when
you make him move off the couch, or even something as innocent as
giving him a hug around the neck, because he may perceive that as
physical restraint, and fight to get away.
3. Protective Or Territorial Aggression
Then there is protective or territorial aggression which stems from an

instinctive defense of what your dog perceives as “his.” This can be
anything from defense of your yard, or your kids, to defense of his toys or
bed or food bowl.
In part protective or territorial aggression also stems from fear, because

your dog is afraid on some level that whatever he’s defending will be
attacked or somehow taken away from him.
Different dogs will respond in different ways to these fears and concerns – the
most problematic are those who resort to nipping and biting. If you’re dealing
with a severely aggressive dog, the potential for harm for both you and your dog
can be extreme, and I would recommend that you work with an experienced
animal behavior professional who understands animal learning theory and
behavior.
But if you’re dealing with a dog who is either just starting to display aggressive
tendencies such as biting or nipping, or if you think you’re up to the challenge,
here are some tips that can help correct these problems.
3 Tips To Stop Your Adult Dog Adult Dog From Biting Or Nipping
1. Reestablish Trust With Your Dog
Many of this dog’s problems stem from a fear that either he’s personally
going to be attacked or harmed (either by you or by another animal), or
that his “stuff” is going to be taken away, or that his “family” is in danger.
You need to go back to square one with this dog in terms of re-socializing
him – he needs to understand that not everyone and everything in the
world is out to get him. Expose him to situations where he sees other
humans and other animals in a non-threatening environment. Put him on

his leash (very important with a dog with this mindset!) and take him to the
park, where he can see other dogs and other people that aren’t running up
to him and trying to pick a fight.
Introduce him to other dogs, also on a leash so the situation is well-

controlled, allow him to greet friends and strangers while under your
control, and by all means, be careful about how you discipline him. No
harsh punishment, no striking or hitting, no extreme yelling – be firm and
consistent and leave no mistake in his mind that you are the Leader of the
Pack.
It’s also important to note that severe punishment will often only make this
problem worse – if your dog’s aggression is fear-based that fear will only
grow as your punishment gets harsher. If your dog’s aggression is
dominance-based, and you try to re-establish your leadership role using
physical force, don’t be surprised if you get bitten, because your dog will
see your behavior as an attempt to replace him as Leader of the Pack,
which typically means a dog fight in the wild.
Calm and steady retraining of your dog is what’s called for here, not
physical punishment.
2. Spay (Or Neuter) Your Dog
This sounds like a simple solution, but dogs that are intact, especially
males, are far more likely to engage in aggressive behaviors. In the wild,
males who are searching for a mate will challenge the Leader of the Pack
for the dominant role, because the Big Dog gets the Chicks. Having him
neutered will remove that component from the family dynamic.
3. Don’t Encourage Aggressive Behavior
Here we get back to the tug of war games or other types of games you
may be playing with your dog. In a dog that’s already displaying
aggressive tendencies, a game of tug a war can reinforce the mindset of
“him against you.” So cease and desist with the tug of war or wrestling-
type games until you get this problem under control.
Even encouraging your dog to "go get 'em’" or to bark and run around in
response to outside noises or at the approach of a person, may result in
territorial or protective aggressive behavior.
Chapter 12: 7 More Common

Behavioral Problems And How
To Correct Them
Now let’s look at some of the other common “behavioral” problems and how to
correct them. Some of them may not be problems at all – just misunderstandings
between dog and owner.
Specific Problems And How To Correct Them
1. Excessive Barking
2. Destructive Chewing
3. Digging Up The Backyard
4. Escape Artist
5. Jumping
6. Separation Anxiety (and Spiteful Behavior)
7. “Thunder” Phobia
Excessive Barking
Let’s get one thing straight up front: dogs bark! Short of removing their voice
box, which I don’t recommend and think is cruel and unusual punishment, you
won’t ever stop your dog from barking completely.
Dogs bark to communicate. They also whine, growl, snarl, moan, yelp, grumble,
grouse, complain and sneer. (Don’t laugh – a friend of mine had an English
Bulldog that used to lift his lip when something irritated him – he looked just like
Winston Churchill. In fact, his name was Winston!)
The point is - dogs bark for a variety of reasons. Here are just a few:
• They’re bored.
• They need to go outside and potty.
• They’re anxious, or fearful, or hot, or cold, or thirsty.
• They want you to come out and play with them.
• They want to come inside and lay by the fire.
• There’s a burglar breaking in your back door.
You see, sometimes you want your dog to bark!
Some dogs have a tendency by breeding to be barkers, others rarely make a

sound. For example, Basenjis are known as the “dogs who never bark.”
Actually, they can bark, it just seems that they prefer not to! Chihuahuas, on the
other hand, are world-class barkers.
If your dog is barking because of a physical need – he’s hot, cold, thirsty or
you’ve kept him in his crate too long and he needs to go outside, he’s using
barking as a way to communicate with you.
He could also be barking from an emotional need, such as boredom or anxiety or

feeling isolated, he’s trying to tell you he’s frustrated and needs attention.
The first thing you need to do is identify why your dog barks all the time – if it’s
one of the reasons we’ve just talked about, such as being hungry or thirsty or left
in his crate too long – then it’s your fault your dog is unhappy, and you need to
do something about it.
While you won’t be able to eliminate his barking entirely (nor should you want to)
– there are some things you can do to minimize nuisance barking.
5 Tips To Stop Excessive Barking
1. Make sure your dog’s physical needs are being met. If he’s hungry or
thirsty or needs to go outside –that’s your responsibility to see that it
happens – preferably on a regular schedule.
2. Make sure your dog is getting enough physical exercise and mental
stimulation. A happy, well-exercised dog has little need to bark
excessively. Take him for walks and runs, play with him, teach him things
and train him. (Remember you’re essentially dealing with a child – a
human child going to school during the day is going to sleep better at night
and be less inclined to get in trouble than one who’s sitting around the
house all day watching television.)
3. Bring your dog inside and make sure he feels like he’s a member of the
family. Dogs need their packs to be socially well-adjusted, and if he’s left
out in the backyard with no social interaction with you, he’s likely to feel
abandoned and neglected, and he’ll be looking for ways to attract your
attention. (Just like a kid – good behavior or bad behavior – it really

doesn’t matter as long as you pay attention to him!)
4. Don’t reinforce barking behavior by rewarding it with petting, comforting,

giving treats or other ways to reassure your dog. Do not punish him for
barking, as this will likely only turn the barking into an obsessive behavior
and make the problem much worse. If your dog is barking excessively, put
him on his leash, and when he barks again, give him the “Stop barking,”
command, along with a snap and release on his leash. When he’s quiet
for a few seconds, give him a reward and praise. Gradually increase the
time he needs to be quiet before you reward him.
5. If none of those corrective measures work, you may want to consider the
use of an electronic “barking collar.” These are collars, usually available
from your local pet supply house or vet’s office, that buckle around your
dog’s neck in the same way as a normal collar, but this collar carries a
noise-activated, very mild electrical current. When your dog barks, he
gets a mildly uncomfortable shock around the neck. It usually corrects the
excessive barking problem within a day, at which point you can then
remove the collar and replace it with his regular collar. Please note: while
a friend of mine used a barking collar successfully in one particular
situation, I recommend that you try alternative methods of correction first.
When, or if, those don’t work, move on to the barking collar.
Destructive Chewing
Chewing on things is natural dog behavior. Dogs chew on bones, sticks, flowers,
lumber, pipes, newspaper, furniture, slippers – you name it, they’ll chew on it!
They chew because they’re teething (well, puppies do!), they’ll chew from
boredom, they’ll chew because they like what they’re chewing on!
If you go to work and leave your dog in the house and return home to find your
favorite chair is now minus one leg – don’t punish your dog. For two reasons:
first, unless you caught him in the act of chewing off the chair leg, he won’t have
the foggiest idea of why you’re punishing him. And even if you caught him in the
act of chewing on the leg, he still won’t understand why you’re punishing him –
after all – dogs chew! Why would you punish him for doing what comes
naturally? (That’s what will be going through his mind.)
But there is a difference between normal chewing, and destructive chewing of the
sort that can bring down your patio cover, or rip the siding off your house. (Don’t
laugh – I know someone that happened to!)
So what do you do? Teach your dog what he can chew on, and what he can’t.
• Give him plenty of toys he can chew on: Nylabones or other pet toys
designed to withstand doggie abuse.
• Supervise your dog closely – if you see him start to chew on something he
shouldn’t, take it away and give him one of his toys as a substitute.
• “Chew-proof” your home, as much as possible. Spray Bitter Apple on

anything you don’t want chewed. (Bitter Apple is a commercially available
product that leaves a horribly bitter taste in your dog’s mouth – it’s non-
toxic but he won’t like the taste) Put things away (like clothes and
slippers) where he can’t get to them. Rub jalapeno juice or Tabasco
sauce on things like electrical cords.
• Don’t give him your old tennis shoes or T-shirts or anything else old of
yours to chew on – the day will come when he finds your brand-new Nikes
that you just paid $150 for, and he won’t know the difference between old
and new!
• Teach him the “Leave it” or “Drop it” commands, so you can tell him to
cease and desist.
Digging Up The Backyard
Okay, you’ve just finished a complete landscaping project in your backyard that
took you two years to complete. You come home from work to find your dog
cheerfully throwing 6 of your just-planted begonias around on your new lawn.
He’s having a grand old time, but your family is actually starting to see steam
escaping from both sides of your head. Before you explode, take a deep breath,
and consider this: your dog doesn’t know that what he’s just done is a bad thing.
For him – it’s a game. Toss the plants up in the air and not only do you get a
shower of dirt and planting material on you, but you can shred leaves and flower
and generally make a fine mess! What fun!
In the wild, dogs dig because they’re trying to find a cool spot in hot weather,
they’re trying to find a warm spot in cold weather, they’re hiding dinner, they’re
looking for dinner – such as trying to dig a squirrel or rodent out of their burrow,
or a zillion different reasons.
Here are a few recommendations to help prevent digging – please note that I
have not personally tried all of these, primarily because Obie, P.T. and Schaffer
didn’t dig much, and certainly not in the backyard. Just lucky, I guess!
1. Fill any holes your dog digs with charcoal, rocks or . . . um, dog feces.
Reportedly dogs don’t like to dig up their own poop, but I’ve never had
to find out.
2. Spray Bitter Apple around the base of plants or over the garden area
where you don’t want him to dig. (The only downside to this plan is
that you have to reapply the Bitter Apple each time you water the
area.) I have used this one with another dog, and it worked – it only
took a couple of applications for the dog to understand that the flower
beds were off limits!
3. Keep your dog confined to a side yard or dog run during the day when
you can’t be there to supervise him. This will keep him out of your
landscaped yard area, and thus unable to dig holes.
4. Some people recommend building him his own “digging pit.” Frame it
in with railroad ties or 4 X 4 pieces of lumber, fill it to a depth of 6 – 12
inches with sand, and help your dog explore his new pit by playing with
him in it and hiding toys and treats inside the pit for him to find. If he
starts to dig in your yard, tell him “No!” and redirect him to his own pit.
5. See to his physical and mental comforts: leave your dog plenty of toys
for him to play with to keep his mind occupied, make sure he has food
and water, and a cool place to sleep in the summer as well as a warm
place in cold weather.
Do You Have An Escape Artist?
As funny as it sounds to call your dog Houdini, having a dog that’s an escape
artist is no laughing matter. A dog running loose is in danger of being hit by a
car, getting injured in a fight with another dog, being stolen, being picked up by
animal control officers and eventually euthanized, or a multitude of other
tragedies. Correcting this problem is a two-step process: you must first figure out
how he’s escaping and then you have to figure out why.
Dogs can be smart little critters (or smart big critters for that matter!). If they
really want to get out of your yard, they’ll figure out a way. It’s up to you to
“outfigure” them and prevent their escape.
Here are just a few ways that dogs commonly get out:
• Jumping over the fence. I had a friend once who had a Schnauzer that
could clear a five-foot fence from a standing start. My friend couldn’t
figure out how her dog was getting out, until she pretended to leave the
house one day, snuck back in, and watched through a back window. She
was amazed when her dog cleared the fence effortlessly!
• Climbing the fence. Well, this is kind of misleading – dogs usually use
something next to the fence to either push off from, actually wedging
themselves between the fence and whatever they’re using, and “walk” up
the fence.
• Using an adjacent structure like their doghouse or a shed to climb up on,

and then jump over the fence.
• Digging under the fence. (A Jack Russell Terrier named “Jack (!), living
next door to my brother and sister-in-law, is a master at this!)
• Figuring out how to open the gate latch.
• Chewing through the fence.
And here’s what you can do about it:
• For climbing or jumping dogs, add an extension to your fence that tilts
inward at about a 45° angle. The extension doesn’t necessarily have to
extend the height of the fence; just provide a barrier to climbing or jumping
it.
• For dogs that use an adjacent structure – move the structure, or make it
impossible for your dog to climb on top of it.
• For diggers and chewers, bury chicken wire at the base of the fence – with
the sharp edges pointed inward, or place large rocks all along the base of
the fence, or lay strips of chain-link fencing on the ground at the base of
the fence.
• For those who can open the gate latch, change latches to a locking latch.
Now you need to look at why your dog wants to escape in the first place.
(These are a few of the most common reasons – obviously there are dozens
more. Take time to study your dog and figure out what’s motivating him.)
1. He might be bored and lonely – he’s left alone too long, doesn’t
have enough companionship and/or toys or other things to occupy
his mind.
2. He’s an active breed that needs a lot of exercise and he’s not
getting it.
3. He’s in search of action and adventure – when he escapes he goes

to a schoolyard to play with kids, or to the park to chase squirrels.
4. He’s sexually mature and looking for a girlfriend.
5. Something scared him in his yard, and made him want to take off
(loud noises, gunshots, thunder and lightning.)
Solutions to try:
• If he’s bored or lonely: increase the amount of time you spend playing with
him, exercising him and teaching him things. A dog that’s properly
integrated into the family “pack” will have little desire to escape or run
away.
• If he’s one of the active breeds, like Huskies, Retrievers or other sporting
dogs, chances are you’re not giving him enough exercise. Take him for
walks or runs every day, let him burn off some of that excess energy.
• He’s an adventurer – he goes to the park and plays with kids or squirrels.
This dog is looking for mental stimulation and action – his home life is
barren and has nothing to interest him. You need to invest some time in
your pet and some money in toys for him.
• He’s looking for a girlfriend – have him neutered. Simple.
• Something scared him in his own yard. If he’s afraid of thunder and
lightning, see the section a little later on in this chapter about “Thunder”
phobia. If it’s something else, try to identify what it is, exactly, that he’s
afraid of, then remove the source of what’s scaring him. If he doesn’t like
loud noises, put him in the garage while you’re gone, or even the house, if
appropriate.
Finally, you might want to invest in an electric fence. When I first heard of
electric fences, I thought they were cruel. I don’t anymore. I’ve seen too many
dogs free to roam their backyards day in and day out for months and years, all
because they went through a few, short weeks of training with flags and then an
electric collar and fence.
In my experience, electric fences have been godsends. P.T. was trained with
one and, as a result, spends tons of extra time in the outdoors in nice weather
simply because he knows his boundaries and abides by them. Honestly, we no
longer put the collar on him. Haven’t for years. He just knows he is not allowed
beyond his boundaries unless an adult, walking with him, tells him he can go.
And when he does get that command, he bounds with glee down the drive ready
to go on his run.
My sister Anne had a different problem with her yellow lab, Piper. They moved to
a new home in the country north of Boston. Beautiful homes in horse country.
But there were a few problems. Piper liked to run across the street and play with
the horses. Anne was worried she might cross the street and get hit by a car.
Equally problematic, the local elementary school was within site of the house,
and Piper loved going over to the schoolyard to play with the kids. Now,
everyone loved her, she’s gentle as can be, but neither the school nor my sister
wanted to face the consequences if Piper were to accidentally knock over a child.
She had to do something, so she set up an electric fence. It took just about 1
month of training. The first week was simple, getting Piper used to the
boundaries using the green and white flags. The second week, when the collar
was first activated, was the most traumatic. But Piper and my sister got through
it. Today, Piper enjoys the acre of backyard she is free to play in, and my sister
no longer worries so much about her dog’s safety, or that of the children over at
the playground.
Dogs Who Jump
So your German Shepherd is a champ at almost everything – he knows his

commands backward and forward, all except for “Down” or “No Jumping.” He
just gets so excited when you come home from work he can’t seem to contain
himself – he jumps up and puts his paws on your shoulders and gives that long,
soulful look that says, “Boy, am I glad you’re home! Now we can have some fun!”
That’s all well and good, because you’re used to it, but on a particular Saturday
Grandma and Grandpa stop by for a visit, and Brutus treats them to the same
enthusiastic welcome. And that’s a problem, because Grandma’s in her eighties
and pretty fragile, and Brutus sends her buns-over-teakettle back out the door
she just came in. Not a pretty picture.
Dogs jump because they’re excited to see you. They also jump to get your
attention, to entice you to throw something for them, to tell you they’re ready to
play, just because they like to jump and bound around.
P.T. has learned not to jump. Good thing too because he’s 100 pounds of big
black dog! (Trust me, he’s big and he’s lean, but he is 100 pounds of big, black
dog.) That can be intimidating for just about anyone.
Why doesn’t he jump on people? Because he was taught not to. It’s just that
simple. And you can teach your dog not to jump as well.
Here are a couple of things you can use to teach your job not to jump up on
people:
1. Teach your dog the “Sit - Stay” command. Unless you have a very
talented Gumby-type dog, it’s very difficult for your dog to Sit - Stay
and jump at the same time. When your dog approaches you, with
every appearance of preparing to jump, hold up your hand and tell him
“Sit.” When he obeys, give him a reward and a treat – let him know
he’s getting rewarded for not jumping. Any time you greet him, make
him understand that he won’t get greeted and praised until he sits
quietly in front of you.
2. Learn the “cha-cha.” No, really, I’m not kidding. As your dog comes
toward you, take a quick “cha-cha” (sort of a stuttering step) towards
him. This usually has the effect of stopping him in his tracks, because
he’s not sure what you’re doing. When you’ve caught him off guard,
give him either the “Sit” or “Don’t jump” command, and praise him
when he obeys.
3. In addition to these 2 methods, we were very stern with P.T. on this

issue from the very beginning. It didn’t take a PhD. to realize that P.T.
was going to grow into a big dog, and we wanted to nip the jumping
problem in the bud. So, as a pup, whenever he jumped up on
someone, we would sternly reprimand him (using a stern voice only),
and have him sit.
After constant and consistent repetition, he learned. Now, when I go to

the park with him, I’m not at all worried he’ll jump up on elderly people
or small children. Even so, as a precaution, when introducing him to
new people I like to stay close and tell him to “Sit” if he seems to be
getting overly excited. (That said, with little kids, I like to let him stand
because they are constantly moving and it’s best if he feels free to
move too so that he doesn’t get hurt. Older people are easier, but I still
like to have him sit if they are particularly older.)
Separation Anxiety And (Seemingly) Spiteful Behavior
Sometimes dogs engage in what seems

to us spiteful behavior – as in “you’re
gone too much, so I’m going to chew up
your favorite slippers.” You discipline
your dog, but he continues to repeat the
behavior, only now he looks guilty and
hides every time you come home to find
the chewed up slippers. What’s going on here?
Separation anxiety can often go hand-in-hand with what we perceive as spiteful

behavior. Most puppies and dogs experience a higher level of anxiety when
they’re left alone – even if it’s for a short period of time. A dog who suffers from
separation anxiety takes that normal anxiety one step further – he becomes
phobic about it – and his anxiety can come out in a wide variety of destructive
behaviors, from whining and crying to digging, chewing, peeing on the floor the
minute you leave him, etc.
Depending on the history of your dog, he may suffer from the more phobic
version – due to abuse or neglect or poor socialization skills – he may feel that
each time you walk out of the house, you’re abandoning him forever.
Be advised that it can take a long time to get a dog over separation anxiety – in
fact, some are so traumatized they never do get over it entirely. But with
patience and love, you may be able to turn an insecure dog into one that’s
comfortable and confident enough to leave on his own.
Here are a few things to try:
• Consider getting another pet. No, I’m not saying get rid of your dog; I’m
saying get him a buddy – a companion that he can spend the day with
while your gone. If your dog has someone to hang out with, play with, golf
with and go to Starbuck’s with, he won’t miss you as much, and a lot of his
anxiety will evaporate.
• If another dog isn’t possible in your situation, you need to accustom your
dog to the fact that you come and go. The first few days you have him
home, practice coming and going, perhaps as many as 8 to 10 times per
day. Leave for short periods to begin with, such as 5 to 10 minutes at a
time, and gradually increase the time you’re gone. Give him a treat or a
favorite you when you leave, so he has something to occupy himself, and
begins to associate your leaving with a positive experience.
• Make sure your dog gets enough exercise, and spends time with you
when you get home. Spend time training him, socializing him and building
his confidence – a dog that is self-assured is much more likely to be self-
reliant, and not as dependent on you.
“Thunder” Phobia
It’s unsettling when your dog has a fear of thunder, fireworks or other loud and
sudden noises. I should know . . . when I was a child, my big, beautiful German
Shepherd, “Obie,” used to hate the 4th of July because – if you can believe this –
it reminded him of the time he was shot in the head as a young pup by an errant
hunter! Obie, like other dogs who are afraid of loud noises, expressed his fear in
destructive behavior, barking, cowering, and generally throwing a fit. I only wish I
knew back then what I know now. It might have helped my dog to overcome his
fears.
Is your dog scared of thunder and lightning storms? How about gunshots?
Backfiring engines? Other loud noises? Many are, and it’s no surprise if you
think about it. To them, it must sound as if the whole fabric of their world is
coming apart! Unfortunately, you won’t be able to explain a tropical depression
or an unstable air mass to your dog in a way he’ll understand!
Some of the initial reactions dogs have to these types of scary noises are to run,
hide, destroy things and escape. Many dogs escape from their houses and
yards because their owners don’t take the time to evaluate just how terrified their
dogs really are.
Here are a few tips to help with this problem:
1. Desensitize your dog to what he’s afraid of. Find an audio tape or CD
of a thunder storm (many places offer them) and play it over and over
again for your dog. Start with the volume low until your dog gets used
to the noise, then gradually increase the level. Be warned, this sort of
corrective behavior works, but it can take months to get your dog used
to the noises.
2. Create a safe place for your dog to go during the storms. If your dog is
trying to get into your closet, open the door and let him in. Notice
where he’s trying to go, and if at all possible, and if it’s a truly safe
location, give him access to it. I have a friend whose Irish Setter
wanted to get in the bathtub. My friend put a blanket in the tub, closed
the door, and the dog would stay in the there for the duration of the
storm, shivering but satisfied. When the storm was over, he’d come
out and act like nothing had happened.
3. NOTE: I don’t recommend you confine your dog to his crate during an
episode like this – even if he voluntarily goes in the crate, he could
seriously injure himself if he tries to escape in the middle of the
thunderstorm.
4. Don’t coddle your dog – this will only reinforce his fearful behavior. If
you praise him and tell him “it will be ok” when he’s hiding under the
bed, you’ve just told him it’s a good thing to act like a ninny. Speak to
him in a happy, upbeat tone of voice, just as you would every day. Put
him on his bed or in his den – with the door open – and give him a treat
or a toy as long as he’s being quiet and calm. If you act like it’s no big
deal, he’ll eventually learn that it’s no big deal.
5. In extremely severe cases, your vet can prescribe a drug that will calm
your dog’s anxiety for short periods of time. I really don’t recommend
this course of action, but talk to your vet about your particular dog. It
may be necessary in your case.
Chapter 13: Protect Your Pet

From Being Stolen
Unfortunately, dog theft is big business. People steal pets for a variety of
reasons. Some are taken for use as “bait” dogs to train fighting animals, others
are used as breeding stock in puppy mills, and still others are sold as lab animals
for experiments and research.
Or they’re just taken because someone thinks, “Gee, that’s a good-looking, well-
trained dog, I think I’ll make him mine!” I should know … a couple of kids once
took my dog Schaffer for exactly that reason. Thankfully, we got him back, after
3 weeks of searching high and low.
Not everyone is so lucky.
The sad fact is that, of the hundreds of thousands of dogs that go missing every
year, only a small fraction are returned to their owners. And the ones that do are
usually returned because their owners took the time to have them tattooed or
microchipped to make identification and ownership easier.
Tattooing
You can have your pet tattooed by a reputable tattoo service. (Call your local vet
for a referral to a tattoo service in your area.) You pick out an identification
number, and have the number tattooed on your dog’s inner thigh. (Note, don’t
put the tattoo on your dog’s ear, because unscrupulous research labs or dog
kidnappers will simply cut off the ear that contains the tattoo. Once the tattoo is
in place, call a registry service such as the National Dog Registry (1-800-NDR-
DOGS) and register the identification number. If your dog is taken, he can be
traced to you through his tattoo.
Microchipping
Microchipping works much the same way as tattooing, except instead of a tattoo,
a microchip is inserted under your dog’s skin (typically at the back of the neck).
If your dog disappears and is found, a special scanner can read the information
on the microchip, and your dog can be traced to you. Again, call your vet for
referrals in your area for Microchipping services.
10 Precautions To Take To Prevent Your Dog From Being Stolen
There are other precautions you can take to help prevent your dog being stolen.
Let’s take a look:
1. Always know where your dog is. Don’t leave him unattended outside in
your yard, even for a few minutes. If you’re going to be gone from your
house, bring him inside and make sure the house is secured.
2. Keep a collar and I.D. tag on your dog at all times. Although not as
effective as microchipping or tattooing, because the collar can simply be
removed, it can be used to aid in identification if your dog is found by a
game warden or animal control officer. Your I.D. tag should include your
name, address and current telephone numbers (both day and evening.)
3. Spay or neuter your dog. This makes them less attractive to those who
want to steal them for puppy mills.
4. Keep current photos of your dog (taken within the last 6 months.) This
can help when making up “missing dog” flyers and reclaiming your dog
from a research facility if he’s found there. (See the next section for some
great tips on taking good photos of your dog.)
5. Set up a neighborhood watch program to protect pets and property in your

neighborhood.
6. Never allow your dog to roam by himself beyond your own backyard.
7. When you do go outside with your dog, make sure you have him under
supervision at all times. If you take him for a run in the park or a hike in
the woods, don’t let him get so far away from you that you can’t see him.
8. Obedience train your dog – he’ll be quicker to respond to your commands

and thus not as available to a potential doggie kidnapper.
9. Never leave your dog tied up and unattended in front of the grocery store,
the Laundromat, the post office, a restaurant or any other business you
need to stop at. He’s a great target for thieves.
10. Before entrusting your dog to a boarding or training kennel, thoroughly

check out their reputation and references.
7 Tips For Taking Great Photos Of Your Dog
We’ve all seen them – those goofy-looking pictures of our pets where their nose
is pressed up against the camera lens, and all you can see is the inside of their
nostrils, or you think you’ve taken a great picture of your dog running in a field
only to find out that he was so far away you can’t even tell he’s a dog!
Our dogs are such a big part of our lives – we include them in everything else, it’s
no wonder we want to include them in our photos albums, as well. The problem
is – no one ever sent them to modeling school. They don’t know the finer
techniques of posing for the perfect shot, or sometimes even how to stand still
long enough for us to immortalize that cute thing they do!
And if your dog is stolen, and you need a picture to send out to all the media
centers and television and radio stations to help with the statewide search –
you’ll need a good picture.
So just what are the secrets of great dog photography? Here are seven tips that
will help.
1. Remember You’re The Composer
No, not a music composer – you’re composing a great photo. That means
you have to think about the shot before you take it. Try to mentally imagine
what the shot will ultimately look like – is the background cluttered and
distracting? Are you shooting a picture of a white dog against a snow bank?
(A little problem with visibility, there!) Is there something in the foreground of
the picture that’s more interesting, and will divert attention from your dog?
Generally, try to shoot a picture with a good color contrast – dark dog against
a lighter background, lighter dog against a darker background. And try to
take pictures of your dog in his natural setting: sleeping on the couch,
snuggling up with the cat, or hunting in a field if that’s what he does.
Remember that those great shots you’ve seen of dogs wearing chef’s hats or
riding in hot air balloons were taken by professional photographers with an
army of helpers and hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of camera gear.
You’re not going to get the same quality photo with your digital camera.
2. Be Familiar With Your Equipment
You don’t have to have a professional-photographer’s setup to take great

pictures. You just have to be familiar with your equipment, and know the
basics of how it functions. If you only take the camera out once a year, you’re
not going to remember what button pushes what function, and you could be
missing a great shot while you’re fumbling around, because I’ll guarantee you
your dog isn’t going to stand completely still while you’re messing around.
Digital cameras are great for taking high-quality photos, and some of them
have that option where you can preview the pictures and erase them if need
be. An auto-focus feature can also eliminate blurry photos. They also are
easily uploaded to the Internet.
3. Get Low And Close
I’m not talking about close enough to count the hairs on his face – I’m talking
about close enough to have your dog be the primary subject of the photo. For
example, if you’re trying to shoot a photo of him running in the park you
almost have to use a zoom lens that will allow you to bring the dog in close
enough to be the primary focus of the shot. If you’re shooting a picture of
your dog on the beach, you’re seeing him run around and play in the waves
and bark at the other dogs – and you forget that he’s actually several hundred
yards away and a mere spec in the camera’s viewfinder.
The human eye sees things differently from a camera lens - our focal plane
can adjust to a closer view without distorting what we’re seeing. A camera
lens can’t do that, so in order to avoid the distortion you see in many pet
photos you need to get down on the same level as your dog (or raise the dog
up to the same level as the camera by using a table or platform.)
4. Natural Daylight Is Best
How many times have you seen that famous “red-eye” shot, where your dog
looks like he’s a rampaging wolf with rabies? (Okay, maybe that’s a slight
exaggeration, but you get my meaning!)
The way to avoid that is to shoot the picture in natural daylight if possible, that
way you won’t have that bounce back from the flash. Try to have the sun
positioned behind you and over your shoulder – never shoot directly into the
sun – it throws off the contrast and eliminates detail. If you’re shooting
indoors, try to shoot the picture without your dog looking directly at the flash,
or back up just enough to have your dog be the focal point of the shot, without
being “in your face, up close and personal.”
5. Shoot Pictures Over Several Sessions
No matter how well-trained your dog is, he’s going to get bored if you stand
around for three hours and act like one of those high-fashion photographers.
(You know, the kind you see on television all the time – “c’mon, baby, you’re
doing great, give me that great smile,” kind of thing.) Trust me on this one,
your dog is going to look at you like you’ve lost your mind!
Keep your sessions short – maybe 10 – 15 minutes at a stretch. Then take a

break. Throw the Frisbee. Go for a walk if you’re out and about. Then try
again if your dog is up to it. If not, try again tomorrow.
6. Action Photos Are Harder To Take Than Still Photos
Why? Because it’s very easy to blur the subject while you’re trying to catch
him in action. Stop and think about it. If you go to have your portrait taken by
a professional photographer, you’ll be asked to sit in a nicely set-up little pose
with some decorative background and with a great smile on your face. But if
you suddenly jump up and start dribbling a basketball in the photographer’s
studio, not only will they be very upset, chances are you’re not going to get a
nice portrait.
Don’t get me wrong – some of the greatest photos I’ve seen were of dogs
doing something – herding cattle or competing in agility trials or running
through the woods. But you have to keep in mind your subject is moving, and
you need to move the camera along with him if you hope to catch that sense
of excitement.
7. Don’t Forget Props And Treats
Use props to add interest to your photo, as well as hold your dog’s interest
while you’re taking the picture. A favorite toy such as a bright red ball can
make a great addition to your photo, as can a large bone or a Frisbee. What
does your dog normally play with? Try to capture him in a pose that’s normal
and familiar – with a chew bone hanging out of the side of his mouth, for
example.
If your dog is fidgety and unwilling to sit still while you compose the perfect
shot – try keeping a supply of his favorite treats handy. It can be a great way
to keep him settled until you’re ready to click that shutter.
So take lots of pictures, and keep them handy!
Chapter 14: What To Do When

You Think Your Pet Is Lost Or
Stolen
If your pet is lost or stolen, take action immediately! Here is a checklist that
you should keep handy in the event of an emergency. You may not be thinking
as clearly as you wish at that time, and this list will help you “work” through the
emergency until you locate your pet.
As you read through this checklist, you may want to put notes, numbers and
other items in the margins. Do this now, long before your pet is missing, and
you’ll be more prepared if that terrible day ever arrives.
Here’s what I recommend you do if you even suspect that your pet is lost or
stolen:
1. Begin the search for your pet immediately. Don't wait a few days
hoping he'll return on his own. Begin looking for your dog by circling
around your block, then gradually widen the circle to include
neighboring areas. Be sure to have a friend or family member wait
outside your home in case your dog returns to your building or
doorstep. Check all local parks, dog runs and any of your dog's
favorite places throughout town.
2. Keep your telephone manned 24 hours a day in case someone calls

about your pet. Hopefully your pet's collar has ID tags attached which
will make it easier for someone finding your pet to call you.
3. Put together a clear, bold, easy-to-read "lost dog" flyer. (Consider

doing this in advance of an emergency.) The two- line, bold headline
should read: “REWARD: LOST DOG." The flyer should also include
the following information:
a. your pet's general physical description and temperament
b. the date and location your pet was lost
c. two or more telephone numbers where people should call if they

find your pet
While your flyer should offer a reward for the safe return of your pet, it
should not specify the amount of the reward.
4. To help prevent heartless con artists and cruel pranksters from preying
on you, leave one or two physical characteristics off the description
you offer on the flyers you post (such as a single white spot on his
back left paw). If a caller claims to have found your pet, ask whether
the pet has any special markings, or do the reverse, and ask if the pet
possesses any markings or other physical traits that really don't exist.
If the caller answers incorrectly, then the call may be a hoax.
5. Distribute "Lost Pet" flyers to friends, neighborhood residents,

doormen, and businesses. Post flyers on all neighborhood bulletin
boards. Flyers should also be handed out and posted throughout the
neighborhood where your pet was lost if other than your own.
6. Contact all local animal shelters, humane societies, veterinary

hospitals, and animal control officers immediately. Also contact your
local police, sheriffs’ office, pet supply stores, groomers, boarding
kennels, professional dog walkers, dog runs, and dog training schools.
After calling these places and people to alert them to your lost pet, mail
them "Lost and Found" flyers containing your pet's description and
photo. After that, visit these facilities as often as possible, and make
daily follow up calls to each facility.
7. Contact agencies like Petfinders (1-800-666-5778) who specialize in

recovering lost pets.
8. Place "Lost Pet" ads (with your pet's photograph) in the “Lost and
Found” and “Pet” sections of all local newspapers. Many times local
community papers will run these types of ads free. Include your dog’s
picture if possible.
9. The Internet is also a good place to let lots of people know about a lost
pet. Send emails, complete with a picture of your dog, to everyone you
know in your neighborhood and call around to see if there is a
community, club or school bulletin board you can post your “Lost Pet”
info on, or an email list you can send a “Lost Pet” broadcast alert to.
10. If your dog is tattooed or microchipped, contact National Dog Registry

(1-800-NDR-DOGS), and Tattoo-A-Pet (1-718-646-8203).
11. If a caller claiming to have found your pet tells you to meet him at a
strange or dangerous location, or to send him money in order to get
your puppy back, or should you suspect that the caller is a con artist,
agree to do whatever he asks, but call the police (speak to a police
detective), your local ASPCA (speak with humane enforcement) and
your local animal control officers immediately. They will set up a sting
operation to catch the con artist
In Parting
I hope you have found this book useful to you More importantly, I hope you
apply the lessons in this book, and enjoy all the pleasures and blessings you’ll
receive by having a loving and well-trained dog in your life.
And remember, chances are your dog isn’t vying for best of breed at the
Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show in Madison Square Garden. Train your dog
to the level you are comfortable with. In my case, I know P.T. isn’t perfect. But
he’s darn near perfect, and that’s good enough for both of us.
And don’t forget, training is ongoing. You need to be consistent, and every once
in a while you need to remind your dog of the rules. This just reinforces the
training.
Finally, if this book proves helpful in training your dog, please let me know about
it! I may even put what you have to say up as a testimonial on my site if it’s good
enough! Or, if you have further questions, you can ask them by email as well.
To contact me, just send an email to me at:
Charlie@DogTrainingZone.com
Thanks and all the best to you and your dog!
Charlie Lafave
http://www.DogTrainingZone.com
SitStayFetch
Click here to visit this website
Further Reading
Highly Recommended
If you’re a lawyer, a doctor or an accountant, I’ll bet

you have more than one law book, medical text or
accounting brief in your personal library. Each book
adds something new to your knowledge.
The same holds true for dog training books. And so

that’s why, if you liked my Dog Training Secrets!
book, I strongly encourage you to check out
SitStayFetch.
SitStayFetch offers a well organized and complete

training program for new dog owners, as well as tips
and techniques for those who may have an older dog
with a problem area they'd like to address.
This book starts with good basic training and finishes

with advanced lessons and instruction that allow dog
and owner to build on previously-taught lessons and
repetition, so that the training is firmly grounded and
well-remembered, all illustrated by numerous step-by-
step coaching and photographs.
So if you’re still looking for more tips on how to train

your dog, I highly recommend you click here to
check out SitStayFetch.

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Proven Training System That Will Have Your Dog Or

LEGAL STUFF ....................................................................................... 2

COPYRIGHT NOTICE .............................................................................................2

TABLE OF CONTENTS ........................................................................... 4

LET ME INTRODUCE MYSELF AND P.T.................................................................13

CHAPTER 1: WHY TRAIN YOUR DOG? ................................................. 18

YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR DOG................................................................18

CHAPTER 2: CANINE PSYCHOLOGY AND SOCIALIZATION ...................... 22

WELCOME TO CANINE PSYCHOLOGY 101. ...........................................................22

5 SUREFIRE WAYS TO BE THE LEADER OF YOUR PACK .......................................23

CHAPTER 3: PUPPY BEHAVIOR ........................................................... 54

WINNING YOUR PUPPY'S TRUST AND LOVE .........................................................54

LINEAR TRAINING ...............................................................................................55

CHAPTER 4: CRATE TRAINING............................................................. 78

WHAT’S SO GREAT ABOUT CRATES? ..................................................................78

CHAPTER 5: HOUSE TRAINING A PUPPY .............................................. 92

SETTING REALISTIC GOALS ................................................................................92

CHAPTER 6: HOUSE TRAINING YOUR ADULT DOG ............................. 104

HOUSE TRAINING BASICS .................................................................................104

WHERE DID YOU SAY THAT DEN WAS? .....................................................116

CHAPTER 7: A FEW BASICS BEFORE YOU START TRAINING................ 120

CHOOSING THE RIGHT LEASH AND COLLAR .......................................................120

CHAPTER 8: TRAINING A DOMINANT DOG .......................................... 135

DOG TRAINER VS. ANIMAL BEHAVIORIST ............................................................135

BEGIN TRAINING OF DOMINANT DOGS EARLY ....................................................138

CHAPTER 9: 10 BASIC COMMANDS FOR YOU AND YOUR DOG TO MASTER

THE REWARD SYSTEM .....................................................................................144

10 BASIC COMMANDS YOU AND YOUR DOG HAVE MASTERED ...........................168

CHAPTER 10: GAMES, TRICKS AND MIND TEASERS ........................... 169

6 GAMES TO PLAY WITH YOUR DOG .................................................................169

CHAPTER 11: BITING AND NIPPING ................................................... 178

PUPPY NIPPING ...............................................................................................178

CHAPTER 12: 7 MORE COMMON BEHAVIORAL PROBLEMS AND HOW TO

EXCESSIVE BARKING ........................................................................................188

CHAPTER 14: WHAT TO DO WHEN YOU THINK YOUR PET IS LOST OR

IN PARTING ...................................................................................... 215

Imagine . . . your dog is known and loved by everyone in the neighborhood.

But before we get started . . .

Let Me Introduce Myself And P.T.

Let me give you an example.

I just took P.T. out for the day. P.T. is a

You see, P.T. is 7 years old. He is extremely well-behaved. He never jumps up

Chapter 1: Why Train Your

Your Relationship With Your Dog

Training Can Save Your Dog’s Life

The Legal Issues

A Well-Trained Dog Will Have A More Active Role In Your Life

No banishment to the backyard because he can’t behave himself around visitors,

Chapter 2: Canine Psychology

Welcome To Canine Psychology 101.

What makes a dog … well, a dog?

You Must Be The Alpha Dog

5 Surefire Ways To Be The Leader Of Your Pack

1. You Go Through Doors First

Even something as straightforward as who walks through the door first

2. Don’t Walk Around Your Dog

3. You Eat First

Food is a powerful motivator that can be used to clearly demonstrate who