Application of Skin Care in Acne

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Received: 21 April 2020 Revised: 9 August 2020 Accepted: 10 August 2020

DOI: 10.1111/dth.14287

REVIEW ARTICLE

The application of skin care product in acne treatment

Jianmei Zhao | Yu Wang | Lu Jiang | Yun-Zhu Mu

Department of Dermatology, The Affiliated


Hospital of North Sichuan Medical College, Abstract
Nanchong, Sichuan Province, China Acne is a kind of chronic inflammatory skin disease, which is common in the hair folli-
Correspondence cle and sebaceous gland of teenagers. It often recurs and affects the quality of life of
Yun-Zhu Mu, Department of Dermatology, patients. Acne itself can cause the damage of skin barrier function. On the other
The Affiliated Hospital of North Sichuan
Medical College, Nanchong, Sichuan Province hand, common acne treatment methods, such as external drugs, systemic drugs,
637000, China. physical, and chemical treatment, can also lead to the damage of skin barrier function
Email: hymyz77@163.com
and affect the treatment effect. The application of skin care in the adjuvant treat-
ment of acne has been widely concerned. Due to their high safety, good tolerance,
and the effect of improving the damaged skin barrier, medical skin care products are
a hot spot in the treatment of cosmetic skin diseases in recent years. It can not only
increase the curative effect, reduce the side effects, but also increase the compliance
of patients when combined with conventional acne treatment. In this article, skin
care products and their application in acne treatment were reviewed.

KEYWORDS

acne, skin care product, treatment

1 | I N T RO DU CT I O N vulgaris points out that skin care is very important in acne manage-
ment, mainly involving cleaning, moisturizing, and sunscreen.5 Skin
Acne is a common chronic inflammatory skin disease of hair-follicle care products with effective ingredients and biological activities which
sebaceous gland, which mainly occurs in the face, chest, back and could repair the skin barrier function, reduce the side effects of treat-
other seborrheic areas.1 The course of acne is chronic and recurrent, ment, and play an important part of acne adjuvant therapy and man-
which may lead to infection, pigmentation, and scar. It can even have agement. At the same time, the application of dermocosmetic
a serious negative impact on the quality of life and psychosocial func- products can be used in the maintenance treatment of acne to reduce
2
tioning of patients. The pathogenesis of acne is mainly related to the and prevent the recurrence of acne. At present, more and more stud-
increase of sebum secretion, the hyperkeratosis of hair follicles and ies show that skin care products combined with conventional acne
sebaceous duct epithelium, the microbial values of Cutibacterium treatment can improve the efficacy of patients, increase patient toler-
acnes, and the inflammatory immunity. Yamamoto et al3 showed that ance, and compliance with high safety.
the skin barrier of acne patients was damaged which manifested as
the sebum secretion was significantly increased, the water loss of epi-
dermis increased, the cuticle hydration was decreased, and the degree 2 | THE MECHANISM AND APPLICATION
of cuticle permeability barrier damage was related to the severity of OF SKIN CARE PRODUCT
acne. The treatment principle of acne is to reduce the secretion of
sebum, keep the opening of sebaceous gland smooth, and control 2.1 | Cleaning skin care product
infection by sterilization and antiinflammatory.4 However, the routine
acne treatments including drugs, physical therapy, and chemical The hyperplasia of sebaceous glands, the increase of sebum secretion,
therapy have some serious side effects such as teratogenic effect, and the change of sebum composition in acne patients such as the
bacterial resistance, destruction of skin barrier function, etc.1 The low content of linoleic acid,6 lead to the damage of skin barrier. At the
South-East Asia study alliance guidelines on the management of acne same time, the increased sebum secretion is more prone to acne.

Dermatologic Therapy. 2020;e14287. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/dth © 2020 Wiley Periodicals LLC. 1 of 5


https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.14287
2 of 5 ZHAO ET AL.

The increase of sebum level is related to the growth of Cutibacterium replenish the lipids on the surface of the cuticle and between cells,
acnes. Therefore, it is important to control the sebum secretion of and can quickly penetrate into the cuticle of the skin to combine with
patients, pay attention to the skin cleaning, and oil control for the water, lock the water,19 so as to improve the function of the skin bar-
7 8
treatment of acne. Zhou et al showed that the level of phos- rier. Acne itself and many treatments used to treat acne (such as ben-
phatidylserine on the skin surface of young acne patients was signifi- zoyl peroxide, topical retinoids, oral isotretinoin, photodynamic
cantly increased, and the decrease of ceramide chain length and the therapy, chemical exfoliation therapy, laser therapy, etc) can induce
increased of unsaturated free fatty acids led to the change of skin lipid infiltration barriers that damage the stratum corneum, increase the
tissue and the reduction of skin barrier function in acne patients. As a rate of water loss of the epidermis, cause skin dryness and inflamma-
result, skin cleaning is the first step in acne care. tion, and increase skin sensitivity.20 Moisturizer can reduce the rate of
The type of cleansers used for acne including fat free cleansers, skin water loss and improve the hydration of skin, maintain the integ-
astringents cleansers, astringents, synthetic cleansers, exfoliators, or mild rity of cuticle permeability barrier, and promote and accelerate the
abrasives, which can also be in the form of cleaning sticks or liquids.9 physiological repair of cuticle.21 Research shows that the level of cer-
Cleanser is used to remove excess grease, dirt, dead skin cells, cos- amide in the skin of acne patients is reduced, and ceramide is the main
metics, and bacteria to clean pores.10 Isoda et al11 have showed that component of intercellular lipid membrane in the cuticle, whose func-
daily use of facial cleanser containing sodium lauryl carboxylate and alkyl tion is to regulate the rate of skin water loss.3 Therefore, the use of
carboxylate can clean facial sebum and improve mind to moderate acne. moisturizer containing pseudoceramide 5 in the preparation can
In one study by Kumtornrut et al,12 the researchers have found that reduce the rate of skin water loss and improve the water content in
detergents containing (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and L-arginine the cuticle.20 Therefore, choosing the right moisturizer can repair the
can reduce sebum level, destroy keratoembolism, decrease in pore size, skin barrier, and it is also a necessary auxiliary means for the treat-
and significantly reduce noninflammatory and inflammatory acne. ment of acne vulgaris.19
Acne-resistant cleansers are often supplemented with oil-removing or
oil-controlling substances (such as PCA zinc, kaolin, etc) and softening
keratin components (such as salicylic acid, a-hydroxy acid, etc).13 At the 2.3 | Sunscreen skin care products
same time, some facial cleansers contain moisturizing ingredients (such
as glycerin, propylene glycol, etc) that are helpful to repair the skin The development and aggravating factors of acne are related to the
barrier and relieve the dry skin after cleansing. Some products may con- external environment, and ultraviolet is one of the main external envi-
tain antiacne active ingredients, such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic ronment that affects the skin.22 Some studies have shown that UV
5
acid. According to South-East Asia study alliance guidelines on acne can cause the proliferation of sebocytes, the secretion of sebum, and
treatment, the ideal cleanser is a noncomedogenic, nonacnegenic, low the expression of inflammatory cytokines, thus promoting the devel-
variability, and nonirritating cleanser for the skin.5 However, thorough opment and deterioration of acne lesions.6,23,24 In addition, some
14
cleansing may result in impaired skin barrier function and dry skin, known conventional cane medications (such as vitamin A and benzoic
which is not beneficial for acne patients. Therefore, the best cleaning peroxide) increase skin photosensitivity. Using sunscreen skin care
frequency should be used twice a day.15 Use a gentle cleanser and avoid products can reduce the influence of ultraviolet rays on skin barrier,
scrubbing of affected areas to prevent irritation and injury to potential reduce the side effects of conventional treatment drugs, and reduce
16
acne, which can lead to increased inflammation. skin pigmentation after inflammation. At the same time, the moisturiz-
ing ingredient added in sunscreen can also improve the skin barrier
function. A study on a new type of selective cream (acne RA-1,2)
2.2 | Moisturizing skin care products abroad shows that it can effectively reduce acne, improve epidermal
barrier function (skin water loss rate), and reduce sebum production.25
Moisturizing skin care products refer to a kind of skin care products Therefore, it is recommended to use sunscreen for acne patients with
which can increase the moisture content of the epidermis, help the high risk of postinflammatory pigmentation and those with signs of
recovery of skin barrier function, reduce the dryness and desquama- postinflammatory pigmentation, especially Asians, because pigmenta-
17
tion of the skin, and make skin smooth. It mainly has three charac- tion is a common result of acne in Asians.10 It is generally rec-
18
teristics namely sealing, moisturizing, and moistening. The sealing ommended to use a broad-spectrum, nonacne sunscreen with a sun
agent can reduce the skin water loss, mainly including mineral fat, lan- protection factors of 30 or higher.5
olin, mineral oil, paraffin, etc; the moistening property is to attract
water from the dermis to the epidermis and the main ingredients are
glycerin, sodium lactate, ammonium lactate, sodium hyaluronate, etc; 2.4 | Medical skin care product
the moistening agents include isopropyl isostearate, castor oil, propyl-
ene glycol, octyl stearate, dimethylpolysiloxane, and so on, which Medical skin care products are skin care products that can restore skin
18
makes the skin smooth and soft. Some moisturizers add acne local barrier function and assist in the treatment of skin diseases. They have
drugs and plant antiinflammatory substances for acne treatment.18 the functions of repairing epidermis, reconstructing skin barrier, anti-
The new generation of humectants contain components similar to stimulation, and antiinflammation. Their main mechanism of action is to
human sebum membrane (such as ceramide and squalene), which can increase the water content and lipid composition of cuticle of skin.26
ZHAO ET AL. 3 of 5

TABLE 1 Active ingredients and function of skin care product

Active ingredient Function References


Portulaca extract Antibacterial, antiinflammatory, and antioxidant 27
Extract of Paris polyphylla Antibacterial, antiinflammatory, and antioxidant scavenging active oxygen 28
Bayberry oil Bacteriostasis, antioxidation, and moisturizing 29
Extract of Camellia Dianshan Antioxidation, antibacterial, and UV protection promoting the growth of keratinocytes 30
Pomegranate extract Antiinflammatory, antioxidative, and antilipoperoxidative 32
Antibacterial and antitumor activities
Nigella sativa Antibacterial, antiviral, and antiinflammatory 33
Resveratrol Antiinflammatory, antioxidative, and antibacterial 34
Antiproliferation and antiangiogenesis
Hop extract Antioxidant, antiinflammatory, and antibacterial 35
Matricaria recutita Antioxidant, antiinflammatory, and antibacterial 36
Licorice extract Antitumor, antimicrobial, antiviral, and antiinflammatory 37
Immunoregulatory
Avocado oil Moisturizing, UV protection, antioxidant, and delay skin aging 38
Green tea extract Antimicrobial, antiinflammatory, and antioxidant reducing sebum production 39
Fruit acid (alfa hydroxy acids) Soften cuticle, dredge pores, moisture, and repair skin barrier antioxidant 40
Salicylic acid Bacteriostatic, antiinflammatory, unclog pore, and keratolytic properties 41
Niacinamide Antimicrobial, photoprotective, and sebostatic 42
Retinol Antiinfective, antioxidant, and antiwrinkle 43
Zinc-containing compounds Antioxidant, sunscreening properties, antiinflammatory antipigmentation, antiacne, and 44
antibacterial

A variety of ingredients in medical skin care products have auxiliary same time, skin care products can also be used as maintenance treat-
effects on acne treatment. For example, the extract of Portulaca oleracea ment of acne to reduce the recurrence of acne.
has antibacterial, antiinflammatory, and antioxidant activities.27 The
extract of Paris polyphylla has antibacterial, antiinflammatory, scaveng-
ing active oxygen, and antioxidant effects.28 Bayberry oil has the func- 3.1 | Combination of skin care products and drug
tions of bacteriostasis, antioxidation, and moisturizing.29 The tea therapy
polyphenols in the extract of Camellia Dianshan have the function of
antioxidation, antibacterial, promoting the growth of keratinocytes, and External drug treatment is the basis of acne treatment. Mild to moder-
preventing the skin damage caused by ultraviolet rays.30 Therefore, the ate acne is mainly used as external drug, while moderate to severe
medical skin care products added with these ingredients can effectively acne is treated by systemic drug treatment and supplemented by
antiinflammatory, antiallergic, and moisturizing, effectively improve the external drug treatment.45 However, there are some side effects of
moisture content of skin, improve the skin water loss, restore the skin drug treatment, such as dry skin, erythema, desquamation, tingling,
barrier function, and effectively improve acne skin lesions.31 In recent burns, pruritus, and increased photosensitivity, which lead to patients'
years, more and more medical skin care products are used in the treat- intolerance and poor compliance.
ment of acne, which also attracts the attention of dermatologists. Some An open and prospective study in Germany include 50 subjects
of the active ingredients for acne treatment and their function have with mild to moderate facial acne and combination of 5% benzoyl per-
been tabulated in Table 1. oxide with a cleanser (liquid cleanser) and a light protectant (moistur-
izer SPF 30) was administered. This study shows that the treatment
can reduce inflammatory and noninflammatory lesions and
3 | COMBINATION OF SKIN CARE PRODUCTS Cutibacterium acnes. The result also showed that 87% of the subjects
AND CONVENTIONAL TREATMENT were satisfied with the treatment plan, and believed that skin care
products could help the skin to prepare for treatment (85%), relieve
Skin care products can be used alone for acne patients or in combina- itching (81%), and reduce irritation (87%). Most of the examiners
tion with other treatment methods. Skin care products can not only believed that liquid detergent (80%) and moisturizer SPF 30 (84%)
repair the damaged skin barrier, but also reduce the side effects of were necessary components in the treatment of acne.46 Another
conventional acne treatment, so as to improve the tolerance and com- international observational study combined cosmetic emulsion with
pliance of patients, and improve the success rate of treatment. At the antilipid overflow, stratum corneum decomposing agents, active
4 of 5 ZHAO ET AL.

ingredients of antiinflammatory, and anti-Cutibacterium acnes, and of side effects after treatment when combined with other conven-
2-3 months of routine medical acne treatment, which can improve tional methods. On the other hand, the use of appropriate skin care
clinical outcomes and minimize the harmful side effects of traditional products can also improve patients' compliance and tolerance. How-
treatment regimens of mild to moderate acne, and improve the quality ever, when using skin care products, patients should choose appropri-
of life of patients, which may lead to further improvement.47 ate skin care products according to the type and severity degree of
acne, skin type, and use of drugs, so as to avoid aggravating acne. At
present, there is a lack of large sample research on the treatment of
3.2 | Combination of physical and chemical skin care products in acne patients, and the types of acne in each
therapy with skin care products study are different, and the types and efficacy of skin care products
are different. In the future, With further research on the effective
Physical and chemical treatment of cane includes photodynamic ther- ingredients and biological activities of skin care products, the applica-
apy, red and blue light therapy, laser and photon therapy, chemical tion of skin care products are being expected to have a better pros-
exfoliation therapy and so on, it is mainly used for auxiliary or alterna- pect for acne treatment.
tive treatment of acne and treatment of acne sequelae.45 However,
physical and chemical therapy have different effects on the function CONFLIC T OF INT ER E ST
of skin barrier, so it can be combined with skin care products to The authors declare no conflicts of interest.
improve the damaged skin barrier.
DATA AVAILABILITY STAT EMEN T
The data that support the findings of this study are available from the
3.2.1 | Skin care products combined with corresponding author upon reasonable request.
chemotherapy
OR CID
Yun-Zhu Mu https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4078-5167
In a study by Yan et al,48 18 patients with mild to moderate acne were
treated with three series of chemical skin changes and PHA containing
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