DRILL BIT

What is Drill bit?

A drill bit is a tool used to cut or crush rock. With rotary drilling, a hole is
drilled by the continuous turning of a drill bit. The drill bit is the mechanism
that cuts into the ground layers to reach the gas deposit or to cut a core sample.

Types of Drill bit

Taper Shank Drills — Those having conical shanks suitable for
direct fitting into tapered holes in machine spindles, driving
sleeves or sockets. Tapered shanks generally have a tang.

A. Extra Length Taper Shank Drills are designed for drilling very
deep holes or drilling in difficult to reach locations. They are especially
preferred for drilling medium to large diameter holes. Available in
12" to 30" overall lengths.

B. Core Drills Taper Shank are designed to enlarge drilled or

punched holes. The Drills are used to improve the accuracy
of the hole. It is used in a taper socket and sized by the standard
Morse taper sizes.

Straight Shank Drills

Straight Shank Drills — Those having cylindrical shanks which
may be the same or different diameter than the body of the drill.
The shank may be made with or without driving flats, tang, grooves
or thread.
A. Jobber drills

Jobber drill bits are straight shank drills suitable for general purpose
applications. This category includes bright, treated, Tin coated drills
to machine a variety of materials. Heavy duty-split point drills, high
helix and para-flute jobber drills along with cobalt bits meet the needs
of most machinists.
B. Stub drills

Screw Machine Drill Bits (also know as stub or stubby drills) are
shorter than standard length Jobber Length Drill Bits. ... They
are often used in screw machine setup where spindle clearance is
limited. Screw machine drill bits' flute length and overall length are
dependant on the diameter of the drill bit.
C. Long series drills

Drill Service stocks and supplies a vast range of Long Series Drills in
Solid carbide, Carbide Tipped, HSCo Cobalt and High Speed Steel (HSS).
We also supply coated drills as standard but all drills can be coated on
request.

D. Deep hole drills

Deep hole drilling processes work by using special tools and setups to
deliver high pressure coolant, evacuate chips cleanly, and achieve depth-to-
diameter holes into metal beyond what a common CNC machine can reach.
This allows manufacturers to achieve their manufacturing tolerances and
production requirements reliably, accurately, and efficiently.
E. Center drill

tool consisting of a twist drill with a 60° countersink; used to drill

countersink center holes in a workpiece to be mounted between centers
for turning or grinding.
F. Masonry drills

A long steel tool having a star-shaped point, used for drilling holes in concrete,
masonry, and stone; it is handheld, the head being struck repeatedly with a
hammer to provide the drilling action.
G. Panel drills
Panel drills have been developed to drill holes for rivets in flat and curved panels
used in sheet metal fabrication. The blue finish reduces chip build up on the
cutting edge and is a better choice when drilling ferrous materials.
H. Reduced shank drills

Reduced Shank Drills are commonly used to drill large holes when only a popularly-
sized hand held manual drill with a small 1/2" or 3/4" chuck is available. ... Special
care should be exercised when using these drills to avoid bending or shearing the
reduced diameter drill shank.
Drill bit Nomenclature:

Drilling is the process of cutting or originating a round hole from the solid
material. There are many ways of classifying drills. The tool(drill) and not the
work piece is revolved and is fed into the material along its axis.

For example, according to material, number and types of flutes, drill size,
type of shank (straight or taper) and cutting point geometry etc. However,
the most common type of drill is the fluted drill shown in figure.

A. Body — The portion of the drill extending from the shank or neck to
the outer corners of the cutting lips.
B. Body Diameter Clearance — That portion of the land that has
been cut away so it will not rub against the walls of the hole.
C. Edge Angle — The angle included between the chisel edge and the
cutting lip, as viewed from the end of the drill.
D. Drill Diameter — The diameter over the margins of the drill measured at the
point.
E. Flute Length — The length from the outer corners of the cutting lips to the
extreme back end of the flutes. It includes the sweep of the tool used to generate
the flutes and, therefore, does not indicate the usable length of flutes.
F. Helix Angle — The angle made by the leading edge of the land with a plane
containing the axis of the drill.
G. Lips angle - It is the angle formed by the flank and a plane perpendicular
to the axis. Lip clearance is the relief given to the cutting edges that allow drill
to enter into the workpiece without any hindrance. In general purpose drills,
the clearance angle behind the cutting edge is 12°.
H. Lips Length — The cutting edges of a two flute drill extending from the chisel
edge to the periphery. (Core Drills) — The cutting edges extending from the bottom
of the chamfer to the periphery.
I. Point Angle — The angle included between the cutting lips projected upon a
plane parallel to the drill axis and parallel to the two cutting lips.
Web Thickness — The thickness of the web at the point, unless another specific
location is indicated.
J. Flutes — Helical or straight grooves cut or formed in the body of the drill to
provide cutting lips, to permit removal of chips, and to allow cutting fluid to reach
the cutting lips.
Indication of a dull drill
All new drill bits start out nice and sharp however if they are not used
correctly they will quickly become dull. I can ruin a new drill bit in about
60 seconds! So what happens to make a drill bit dull? OVERHEATING.

If the feed is too slow (not pressing hard enough) the drill bit will not bite
into the metal, it will just spin without cutting very much. This causes a lot
of friction, which overheats the drill bit and makes it dull. Too much pressure
on the feed will also overheat a drill bit (and make it dull). In my experience it
is hard to give too much feed with a hand drill unless you have a small bit. You
will know when you press too hard with a small bit because it will break. It is
always better to press a little too hard, a light feed will cause the bit to overheat
and get dull. (a small drill bit that is dull cuts about as good as a small bit that is
broken) If the speed is too fast (the drill spins too quickly) the drill bit will not bite
into the metal; it will just spin without cutting very much. This causes a lot of friction,
which overheats the drill bit and makes it dull. If you run the drill too slow, it will just
take longer to cut. GO SLOW! You will ruin all your drill bits if you use a drill that has
only one speed. Make sure you have a variable speed drill. Big drill bits require slower
speeds than small drill bits.