supplies:

• 1/2 yard fabric for outer bag • coordinating thread

{quilt weight or home dec*} • size 14 or larger sewing machine
• 1/2 yard lining/pocket fabric needle
• 1/4 yard quilt weight fabric • small scraps of batting or fleece
for handles • disappearing fabric marking pen
• 1/2 yard interlining - bottom weight • ruler
fabric {twill, canvas, bull drill, denim, etc*} • scissors
• 1 yard fusible interfacing • hand sewing needle
{I used Pellon 911FF} • small binder clips, pins
• 1 set of 18mm extra thin
magnetic snap closures
regular mag. snaps will work as well optional: fray check, rotary cutter/
but will be more visible mat

*TIP: using a thicker interlining such as canvas will result in a bag that holds its shape well. the
thinner your interlining fabric is, the “floppier” you bag will be. if you’re using home dec fabric for your
outer bag, you’ll want to use a thinner interlining. you can also experiment with using heavier fabric for
the lining.

prep work: Read through entire tutorial before beginning!

1. Print out pattern pieces. Make sure your printer is not set to scale to fit/fit
to page. Once your pattern is printed, check the test square to make sure it
measures 1 inch square. {pattern pieces: select pages 17-22}

2. Cut pattern pieces from paper and match them up by lining up letter to
corresponding letter. Make sure that your pieces do not overlap. Tape them
together to create your bag pattern piece and handles pattern piece.

Copyright © 2011 lbg studio / vanessa hewell www.littlebiggirlstudio.blogspot.com 1

 twill

3. Cut the following from your fabric/lining/interfacing/interlining using the

pattern pieces provided and/or rotary cutter and mat:

Bag body: 2 outer fabric, 2 lining fabric, 2 fusible interfacing, 2 interlining {don’t cut darts out
on any of these pieces }
Pocket: 1 lining or outer fabric and 1 fusible interfacing {cut on fold}
Handles: 1 fabric {cut on fold}, fold pattern piece in half {long edges touching} and use it
to cut 2 pieces of fusible interfacing {cut on the fold} You should end up with one strip
of fabric measuring 23” x5” and 2 pieces of interfacing measuring 23”x 2.5” each.

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4. Layer interlining on the wrong side of both outer bag pieces.
Baste in place either with pins or basting stitch.

5. Fuse interfacing to the wrong sides of lining pieces and pocket. *Tip: trim
interfacing to be about 3/8” smaller than pattern pieces and center them on the
corresponding fabric pieces. Doesn’t have to be exact-just helps reduce bulk in the seams.

6. Fuse interfacing on handle

Take fabric handle piece and fold in half lengthwise/wrong sides touching. Press well to
create a crease. Unfold, then fold in both sides to meet at the crease. Press. Open folds
enough to place a strip of interfacing in the middle. Fuse. Take 2nd strip of interfacing,
place directly on top of the other strip and fuse. Set aside.

7. Using your fabric marking pen, mark darts onto wrong sides of both your
outer bag and lining pieces.

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sewing: Seam allowance is 3/8”/edge of presser foot unless
otherwise specified.
1. darts:
Take both of your outer bag and lining pieces and create darts using
the markings you made earlier. Fold the fabric at each dart marking {right sides
touching} and pin in place. To make sure your darts are even, take a pin and
push it through the line on one side and check to see if it comes through the
line on the other side. If so, the dart is even, if not, make adjustments. Stitch
along the line on one side for each dart. Trim the seam allowance on the darts
to about 1/8”.

*Tip: when sewing darts on your outer bag pieces, make sure to keep both layers of fabric
{outer bag fabric and interlining} even and stretched smooth. After sewing all the darts, match
them up to each other to make sure they are all the same length. Also, compare the darts on
the 2 outer bag body pieces and make sure that they are equally spaced apart. Do the same
for the lining. This will all help make sure your bag is symmetrical.

2. pocket:
Fold pocket piece in half, right sides touching. Sew along 3 open edges, leaving
a 3” opening along the bottom for turning. Clip corners and turn right side out.
Press pocket, paying special attention to the area you left open. Topstitch
across the folded edge of your pocket piece. Mark the center of the front of
your pocket by making a small mark at the top - this will come in handy later.
*Tip: Use a longer stitch length for topstitching. Line up the edge of your presser foot with the
edge of the pocket and use it as a guide to keep your stitching straight.

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Take one of your bag lining pieces, place it right side up, and center your
pocket piece between the darts and 1 3/4” from the top of the inner curve. Pin
in place. Sew across the bottom of the pocket very close to the edge. Sew
along both sides of the pocket as well. I like to do two rows of stitching to
reinforce the pocket but that is optional.

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3. lining
Press the darts in one direction on one lining piece and in the opposite direction
on the other. This will help to make matching them up and sewing them together
easier. Take both lining pieces and match them up right sides touching. Pay
special attention to the darts. Pin there first and then pin the rest of the bag
lining. Sew the sides and bottom of the bag lining, leaving a 4.5” opening at the
bottom for turning. Trim your seam allowance to 1/4” beginning about 2” from
the top of the bag down on both sides and stopping before you get to the
opening. Do not trim the SA on the opening. Press open the SA at the top of
both sides of bag lining. Set aside.

4. outer bag
As above, press the darts in
opposite directions on both pieces.
Place your outer bag pieces
together, right sides touching. Pin
bag together after lining up darts.
Since this part of the bag is made
up of several layers and layers have
a tendency to shift while sewing,
sew across the darts first, and then
sew together the rest of the bag.
This will prevent shifting and help to
keep the darts lined up with each
other.

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Trim SA to 1/4” beginning 2” below the top of bag on both sides; continue all
the way around the bag. Press open the SA at the top of the bag on both sides.
Turn the outer bag right side out and you’ll be ready for the next step!
*Tip: Place your lining inside the outer bag and check for fit. If the lining doesn’t fit quite right,
sew around the bottom half of the lining using a slightly wider SA to make it a bit smaller.

5. combining the outer bag and lining

Place the outer bag {right side out} inside the lining {wrong side out}. Line up
the seam allowances on both sides and pin in place. Check to see that
everything lines up along the inside of both curves of the bag. If not, trim
excess fabric carefully. *Using a 1/4” SA, sew along the inner curves of both
the front and back of the bag. Don’t sew across the top of the bag.

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Clip the curves and if needed, trim the SA to 1/8”. Turn bag body right side out
through the opening in the lining. Press both curves flat then topstitch close to
the edge.

Take your ruler and line it up across the top of the bag. Check to see that the
top edge of the bag is straight and trim if necessary to even things up.

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6. making the handles
Take the handle strip and fold the sides in to meet in the middle, press. Fold in
half again and press well {basically creating a wide piece of binding}. Fold the
handle piece in half and mark the halfway point with a pin.

Line the middle of your handle piece

with one of the side seams of your
bag. Open the “binding” and place
over the top of that side, basically
sandwiching the bag top with the
handle binding. Wrap the rest of the
binding around the bag until both
ends meet up. Use your fabric
marking pen to mark a stitch line on
the handle piece that lines up with
the edge of the bag. More than likely,
your SA will be between 3/8” and
1/2” but since the handle piece needs
to fit the top of the bag exactly, it
makes sense to double check.

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Remove the handle piece from the bag, unfold both ends, place them right sides
together and pin in place. Sew the ends together using whatever SA you
measured above. Press seam open and if possible, peel up and trim back the
interfacing in the seam allowance. Fold the handle/binding back to it’s original
shape and press well.

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7. attaching the handles
Almost finished! Take the handle loop you just made and sandwich it over the
top of the bag. Line up the side seam of the loop with one of the side seams
of the bag body. Use the binder clips to hold the handle in place. Use a ruler/
cutting mat grid to make sure the handle is placed on the bag top evenly.

Next, set your stitch length to a

longer length and make sure if you
haven’t switched to a larger size
machine needle yet, do so now!
Lots of layers to sew through here.
Starting at one of the side seams,
sew closely to the bottom edge of
the handle piece. Sew slowly and
use one of the inside edges of your
presser foot as a guide.

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Sew all the way around the handle loop, making sure to keep the front and back
of handles even. Use a press cloth and try to press the handles as flat as you
can, paying extra attention to the sides where the fabric curves and is thickest.
High heat and steam will be helpful here.

*The next step is optional but I really think it helps to keep the handles flat and
will make the bag look better when folded over into a clutch. Starting at the
top edge of the handle loop, top stitch all the way around. Continue to sew
evenly spaced lines of stitching down the handle. Another trick would be to lay
a heavy book on to of the handles overnight to help flatten them out.

8. inserting magnetic snap

Grab your ruler, magnetic snaps, batting scraps, fabric marking pen, seam
ripper, and fray check {if you plan to use it} Place your bag on a flat surface,
so that the pocket is facing up. Slide the ruler inside the bag, line it up with the
mark you previously made on your pocket, and make a mark 1/2” down from the
curved edge of your bag. Double check to make sure this mark is centered.
Place one of the back pieces of the snaps at the mark you made {top of disk
lined up with mark} and use it to mark where you need to cut slits for the
prongs. Cut the slits open carefully using your seam ripper. Put Fray Check on
the slits for reinforcement.

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Cut two small squares of batting and cut slits in them also. Push the male side
of the magnetic snap through the slits you made in your bag. Get access to the
back of the snap by using the opening in the bottom of the lining. Slide a piece
of batting over the prongs and then the metal disk. Use either the handle of
your scissors or the bottom of your seam ripper to push your prongs in towards
the center or out to the sides - whichever you prefer. Push hard to flatten the
prongs as much as you can.
Copyright © 2011 lbg studio / vanessa hewell www.littlebiggirlstudio.blogspot.com 13
I have a little trick for adding the other half of the magnetic snap with no
measuring! Place your bag on a flat surface, pocket/magnetic snap facing up.
Use your fabric marking pen and color the center of your snap. Make sure the
top of your bag is lined up with the bottom {curves match up} and use your
hand to press the top side of the bag down onto the bottom. The pen mark will
transfer to the fabric and now you have a placement guide for the other part
of your snap. The mark will correspond to the center of the snap back piece.
Repeat the process as described above to insert the magnetic snap.

Using your fabric

marking pen, color the
raised part of the
magnetic snap.

Copyright © 2011 lbg studio / vanessa hewell www.littlebiggirlstudio.blogspot.com 14

9. finishing up
Slip stitch or machine stitch closed the opening left in your lining. Remove any
remaining pen marks on your bag. Fold your bag over until top edge of the
handles lines up with the top of the darts. Press lightly just at the sides of the
bag at the fold. While you want the bag to fold over easily to use as a clutch,
you don’t want to create a crease. Enjoy your bag!

Fine print:
Purchasing this pattern allows you {the original purchaser} to sell items you’ve
made on a small, handmade scale. No commercial or mass production. Please
give pattern design credit to “lbg studio / vanessa hewell” in any online listings
or hang tags. This pattern is not to be shared, copied, or distributed in any way.

Any questions? Feel free to email me at: sevan76dress {at} gmail {dot} com

If you’d like to show off your fabulous new bag, consider adding photos to my
Flickr pool located here: http://www.flickr.com/groups/lbgstudio/

Thanks for your purchase. Happy sewing!

Copyright © 2011 lbg studio / vanessa hewell www.littlebiggirlstudio.blogspot.com 15
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