3D Printer The C3Dtbd Big Delta

instructables
3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)
by Core3D
The C3Dt/bd is my latest 3D printer design and has been turning heads at various Maker Faires and most notably at
the MidWest RepRap Festival 2019. It is large and and it is accurate and most importantly, most of it's parts are o
the shelf. Following are some of the features of the C3Dt/bd:
Build Volume: 330mm(dia)x124 0 m m

Board: DuetWi (24Volt)
Screen: Panel Due
Delta Smart E ector
BondTech Extruder
Flying extruder
Hot-end: E3D
Auto bed Leveling
BuildTak Flex Plate system (magnetic bed)
Built-in bed tensioning
Haydn Huntley’s Magball Delta arms
Easily detachable Flying extruder
110volt heated bed
6.8mm aluminum bed
Nema 23 stepper motors
Unique Cable Management
Board cooling fans
Parts cooling fan
40mm fan bracket for heatsink (reduces noise)
Optional wheels in case you move it a lot
Fair warning, this is NOT a budget printer. Parts can easily run into to the thousands, but you do get one nicely
working printer out of this. This being my rst Delta, I was concerned about calibration and troubleshooting but I
found that with the combination of parts/features above, the setup was child's play compared to some of the other
printers I have designed.
For those who have seen this printer up and close, you'll know it's special feature is the convertible bed allowing
the bed to to move position. This instructable currently DOES NOT cover that feature. However, I will point out
design/purchase di erences allowing to you to upgrade to this feature, once I do make it available.
disclaimer: I'm an a liate to Amazon and any purchase you make through my links (please do) get me a small commission.
It doesn't cover my cost but does allow me to buy some lament from time to time.
3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 1
Step 1: Bill of Materials

As I mentioned in the intro, this is not a budget href="https://amzn.to/2OZkKag">https://amzn.to/2O
printer. Cost on parts for me has run close to $4000. ZkKag
The parts below are mostly sourced in the US and I've
opted for high quality linear rails by THK. These rails Cork $11.10: https://amzn.to/2U4m4cJ
by far are the most expensive component of this
printer. You can shop around for cheaper (or used on Nema 23 Stepper Vibration dampers $11.99
eBay) but, keep in mind that cheap rails may make for https://amzn.to/2VtKtKp
lower quality prints (a shame on a printer as large as
this one). Cup Hooks $3.79: https://amzn.to/2D4rMFO
Ha rdw a re Latex Tubing $12.99: https://amzn.to/2GkgnUC
Linear Rail 1630mm x3 $1,194.00: Acrylic sheet $15.61: https://amzn.to/2VYE6PH

https://www.thkstore.com/radial-rail-sr.html
Ele ct ro nics
Rail Block x3* $333.00 https://www.thkstore.com/sr-w-
block.html DuetWi $169.99: FilaStruder.com
E ector arms (360mm) with Magballs $79.99: Delta Smart E ector $64.99: Filastruder.com
Filastruder
Panel Due 7i $99.99: Filastruder.com
Bed Aluminum Cast 1/4inchx330mm $55.00
https://www.ebay.com/usr/lumberjack1983 (Ask for Nema 23 Stepper Motor x3 $114.00:
quote) https://amzn.to/2YYNpke
Gt2 belt 10m x2 $25.76 https://amzn.to/2I9ZHBk Nema 17 Stepper Motor x1 $10.98:

https://amzn.to/2X440Bu
Gt2 20 teeth 6.35mm pulley $9.19
https://amzn.to/2Gaoens Keenovo silicone bed $65.50:
https://amzn.to/2Z0MQ9F
Gt2 20 teeth idler $3.99 https://amzn.to/2YYKQi6
Solid State Relay (SSR) $7.99: https://amzn.to/2UrK12U
Corner brackets $51.00 https://amzn.to/2D6ilWm
40mm fan 24v 40mm $9.99: https://amzn.to/2G2L7YL
1515 Extrusion $224 (plus shipping):
https://8020.net/1515-ls.html Block/thermistor sock $19.99: Filastruder.com
BuildTak Flex Plate system $105.00: BuildTak.com E3d heat break $14.99: Filastruder.com
PEI Sheet 12"x12" $19.95: https://amzn.to/2Gkwr7v Heat cartridge 24V $7.99: Filastruder.com
3M double sided adhesive 12"x12" $14.99: Mean Well 24Volt PSU $44.99:
https://amzn.to/2VRiNzb https://amzn.to/2UOku34
BMG extruder $89.99: https://amzn.to/2U91dVQ 22 Gauge wire for heater $10.98

https://amzn.to/2CZTMdV
Casters (wheels) $12.00: Home Depot
16 gauge wire for mains $16.95:
Slinky (yes that's right) $5.93 https://amzn.to/2WWBIbZ

Mail power socket $5:29 https://amzn.to/2KnHZfp href="https://amzn.to/2Z0QQqH">M3 14mm hex
socket screws $8.95: https://amzn.to/2V4lj8m
Power cord $6.47: https://amzn.to/2Vxc0L7
M3 16mm hex socket screws $9.25:
Wiring spade fork $7.82: https://amzn.to/2KmT28A https://amzn.to/2DaQnJ9
Wiring spade quick connectors $9.99:

https://amzn.to/2FZ3CNM
Ferrules $13.89 https://amzn.to/2Vvz vUx https://amzn.to/2D4ByrC
Braided sleeving $10.95 https://amzn.to/2FZx6Ll Assorted long m3 hex socket screws $12.99:
https://amzn.to/2WUCUwx
Terminal strip (8 pos) $12.89 https://amzn.to/2P7CAYV
M3 square nuts $6.99: https://amzn.to/2Ut7QHo
Makerbot style end stops $9.90:
https://amzn.to/2G7DpNg Adhesive transfer tape $14.99:
https://amzn.to/2G7B0SK
Stepper cables (40m) $38.00:
https://amzn.to/2D4PYrH M3 Hex nut $5.99: https://amzn.to/2IohQuk
JST Connector Kit $8.99: https://amzn.to/2Z7rR51 M4 Flat hex nuts $9.62: McMaster Carr
Shrink Tubing $8.37: https://amzn.to/2X89efG M4 Lock Washers $2.71: McMaster Carr
Fa s t e ne rs M4 10mm hex socket screws $8.79:

https://amzn.to/2I9kHIp
M3 t-nut (300) $40.10 AliExpress.com
M4 8mm hex socket screw $8.79:
M4 20mm hex socket screws $12.99: https://amzn.to/2WZCcy3
https://amzn.to/2YWzCeh
Micro Zip Ties $5.99: https://amzn.to/2X9YZrb
https://amzn.to/2WYQK18 #10 3/4" washers $10.95: https://amzn.to/2GlSoV9
M6 16mm hex socket screws $12.99 Wood screws #4 3/4" $9.98: https://amzn.to/2VREBLl
https://amzn.to/2GbB9FM
Fila m e nt
M6 20mm hex socket screws $10.99
https://amzn.to/2IkypHw PETG x4 $84.00: https://amzn.to/2Kkarid
M5 10mm hex socket screws $9.38 PLA $x3 $60.00: https://amzn.to/2GdQ3vn

https://amzn.to/2I7hau9
* 6 Rail Blocks needed in case of future upgrade to
M6 T-nuts (150) $30.00: https://amzn.to/2D3phng movable bed

https://amzn.to/2Z0QQqH

Step 2: Organizing Wires
throughout this instructable, we'll be adding more (and then some) but you'll need to provide your own
and more wiring, all coming together at one point to ferrules, jst connectors, fork spades at the other end
be connected to the boards. of the cables.
This may go without saying but, MARK all your wires. You will need tools like:
Use some blue tape and write at the loose ends where
they come from (STepper 1, stepper 2, Heatsink fan, Wire Stripping tool: https://amzn.to/2KLtkuT
cooling fan, bed thermistor, etc, etc. Tracing back all
your wiring after it's been sleeved and tucked away Ferrule crimping tool: https://amzn.to/2IpEVO8
can be somewhat challenging.
JST crimping tool: https://amzn.to/2KVC4ym
The Duet Wi board, Delta Smart E ector and Panel
Due all come with the right amount of connectors

Step 3: First of 3 Towers: Parts
This step can be repeated for each of the 3 towers of this Delta printer. The design is speci c to using 1515
extrusion. Going with a di erent size extrusion would malign many of the 3D printed parts.
Parts needed:
2000mm 1515 extrusion

Nema 23 Stepper motor
Nema 23 Vibration Dampers
2 Corner Brackets
End Stop
4 meters GT2 belt
2 Magballs
Idler 20 teeth
Belt Pulley 20 teeth
Stepper wire (approximately 3 meters)
THK Linear Rail with one carriage/block*
fasteners

M6 16mm (6x)
M6 20mm (2x)
M6 t-nut (7x)
M3 t-nut (14x)
M3 14mm Hex socket screws (14x)
M3 square nuts (11x)
Cup hook (1x)
Hex nut m3 (1x)
3D Printed parts
Tower Idler Bracket.stl

Tower Nema Bracket.stl
Tower End Stop Case.stl
Carriage Adapter Body.stl
Carriage Adapter Belt Tightener.stl
*Two carriages/blocks for future upgrade to movable bed

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Step 4: First of 3 Towers: the Idler Bracket
Parts needed:
Corner Brackets 1x
Idler 20 teeth
fasteners
M6 16mm Hex socket screw (2x)

M6 t-nut (2x)
M3 square nuts (4x)
Hex nut m3 (1x)
3D Printed parts
Tower Idler Bracket.stl
The Idler Bracket connects to the top end (make edges meet) of the tower. It is used to guide the belt and connect
to the frame support.
In order to get proper hold on the frame, I used M6 nuts to attach the corner brackets (and most other frame
components). The corner brackets that came from amazon came with M3 holes. Drill out the holes in the corner
brackets with 1/4" drill on both sides as seen in the image of the corner bracket (the yellow circles) and do this on
both sides.
For the assembly insert the idler into the slot and "weave" the 30mm m3 screw through it's center. Insert a hex nut
in the placeholder in the back of the idler bracket and tighten the m3 screw (not too tight as it is imply there to
hold the ilder in place.
Insert the 4 square nuts into the placeholder on the top and bottom to receive the 4 20mm m3 screws that connect
the corner bracket to the Idler Bracket. You can tighten this as the square nuts can take quite a bit of pressure.
You can already insert the 16mm M6 bolts and Associated t-nuts and drop it onto the extrusion at with the top
ush with the top of extrusion. The can tell what's top and bottom on the Bracket by the length of the M6 screw
receptacle. The top is shorter than the bottom one.
Step 5: First of 3 Towers: the Nema 23 Bracket
Parts needed:

Nema 23 Stepper motor (1x)
Nema 23 Vibration Dampers (1x)
Corner Brackets (1x)
Belt Pulley 20 teeth (1x)
fasteners
M6 16mm hex socket screw (3x)

M6 t-nut (3x)
M3 square nuts (5x)
M4 Nuts (4x)
M4 Lock Washers (4x)
3D Printed parts
Tower Nema Bracket.stl
Connect the Vibration Damper to the Nema 23 Motor using 2 m4 screws (10mm) and m4 nuts with lock washers
Attach the corner bracket to the Vibration Damper using 2 m4 (8mm) and M4 nuts with lock washers. Before
Tightening, rotate the entire Nema 23 about 8 degrees as seen in wire frame image.
connect the 20 teeth pully to the nema shaft as seen in the image (tightening nuts away from Nema)
Do not yet connect the nema to the Nema Bracket. It needs to be attached to the rail rst (due to center bolt).
Insert the 5 square nuts in the receptacles at the bottom (3) and the top (2). I recommend putting a little glue (or
hot glue to keep them in place for when the Corner bracket is connected.
Insert the 3 M6 16mm Bolts and connect the t-nuts.
Insert the Nema 23 Bracket into the aluminum extrusion and move it so the bottom is ush with the bottom of the
extrusion.
After tightening the 3 M6 bolts securing the bracket to the tower, insert the Nema assembly and connect with the 5
m3 25mm screws.

Step 6: First of 3 Towers: the Linear Rail
Parts needed:

2000mm 1515 extrusion
THK Linear Rail with one carriage/block*
fasteners
M3 t-nut (14x)
M6 t-nut (2x)
M6 hex socket screw 20mm (2x)
For this build I've chosen to use every second attachment hole in the rail instead of all. If you want to go full
throttle on using every hole in the rail use 13 screws and t-nuts more.
Adding the linear rail to the extrusion can be a tricky part. The question is the order of assembly. You can try to add
each screw and t-nut prior to putting the rail onto the extrusion but you run the risk of some of the t-nuts rotation
freely in the groove, never connecting or rotating 90 degrees so they don't grip onto the extrusion at all.
I use a little trick to place the t-nuts in place prior to added the rail but it does require sacri cing an old Tape
measure. See the video on this here:
ht t ps://www.yout ube.com/embed/Un6-Z57TbBc
When placing the t-nuts in the proper position, position the linear rail 45mm from the bottom of the idler bracket.
That leaves all the room for upgrading to a movable bed and enough room for the endstop case.
First tighten the screws and the end of the rail. This allows you to position the exactly center at both ends (don't
over tighten).
Now going from end to the other keep tightening the other screws working your way to the middle. Do this in
several passes as needed. A rail this long easily bends so make sure the distance to the edge of the extrusion is
equal across the entire rail.
End-stops and con guration should in practice prevent the carriages from rolling of the rail but, just in case, insert
a bare M6 20mm bolt with t-nut at each end of the rail and tighten it. The screw will tighten itself in place as it
pushes at the center of the extrusion.
*Get two blocks if you want to upgrade to the movable bed at some later point

Step 7: First of 3 Towers: Carriage Adapter
Parts needed:
Magballs (2x)
Fasteners
M3 square nuts (3x)

Cup hook (1x)
3D Printed parts
Carriage Adapter Body.stl

Carriage Adapter Belt Tightener.stl
The carriage adapter on this delta serves several functions.
1. It moves the e ector via the arms connected to the MagBalls.

2. It functions as the belt tightener by means of a tightening screw through the carriage
3. It has a hook to connect one of the three bands for the ying extruder
Assembly is fairly straight forward.
Add the Magballs diagonally into the holes present, insert the square nuts behind in the square cavities and

tighten.
Insert square nut in center of carriage adapter and insert 45mm screw trough the carriage adpater belt tightener
and through carriage adapter body. don't screw too far in. Just enough to get through nut is enough.
insert hook screw in pre-drilled (printed really) hole in front center of Carriage Adapter Body.
Attach the carriage adapter with 4 M5 10mm screws to the Rail block/carriage.
Step 8: First of 3 Towers: Adding Belt
with both end brackets (Idler and Nema) in place Fold the end of the belt over having the teeth meets
along with the carriage adapter, you can now add the (and interlock) and insert in adapter around the rst
belt to the tower. receptacle. getting around rst and don't worry about
a tight t yet. Once inserted into slots you can pull it
Take 4 meters of belt and "weave" it through idler and to a tight t (don't give it too much slack either as the
nema adapter and make sure it wraps around the tightening screw can only correct so much.
pulley and idler and meet the ends over the carriage
adapter. You can use the tension screw to remove the slack but
I would hold o on full tensioning until the entire
make sure the tension screw has plenty of room to frame is together (we don't want it to bow the entire
tighten when adding the belts to the adapter. tower).

Step 9: First of 3 Towers: End Stop
Parts needed:
Makerbot style end stop (1x)

Stepper cable (approximate 2 meter)
JST XHP 4 pin male connector (or solder wire to existing)
Fasteners:
M3 t-nut (1x)
Printer parts:
Tower End Stop Case.stl
Each tower has endstop installed to which the printer will home after and prior to print. The C3Dt/bd uses
makerbot style mechanical endstops.
Assuming the electonics will be place as I designed it (midway the printer's height) you'll need longer cables than
provided with the stock end stops. You can either solder on extra wire to the existing or re-crimp a longer one. In my
build I crimped new wires (as you'll have to re-crimp the end on the Duet Wi in any case).
The makerbot style end stop uses a 4 pin JST connector but only 3 are connected (vin, gnd and signal). Crimp one
end of a length of about 2 meters of Stepper wire (just rip o the 4th stand of cable) identical to the original cable
that came with the end stop.
Connect new wires to endstop and insert into the End Stop Case
Insert M3 screw 16mm through case and add t-nut.
Connect the case to the Tower at the top of the linear rail. Make the end stop sensor reach beyond the edge of the
rail (easily 8mm) as the shape of the Carriage and the potential grease nipple can bump into the end of the rail
before it reaches the endstop.
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Step 10: Repeat Steps 3 Through 8 for All Three Towers
Rinse and repeat steps 3 though 8 for the second and third Tower. All are identical in makeup.
Step 11: Connecting the Three Towers
Parts needed:
3 Towers constructed in previous steps

Corner brackets (6x)
Aluminum extrusion 418mm (12x)
Fasteners
M6 10mm hex socket screws (84x)

M6 T-nuts (84x)
M3 T-nuts (12x)
3D Printed Parts
CornerCap.stl
Before connecting anything we need to prepare the corner brackets that go on the outside to allow for M6 screws.
Drill out the holes in the corner brackets with 1/4" drill on both sides as seen in the image of the corner bracket (the
yellow circles) and do this on both sides. You can also drill out the 2 center holes as seen in the image, although I
found I was able to get a M6 screw through there without additional drilling (it may add for a bit more strength not
drilling it).
at the bottom of the rail:
1. Insert 8 M6 10mm screws into the already present tower and add t-nuts on the outside
2. Lay one rail on its back with the with the linear rail pointing up.
3. Add a 418mm extrusion (By sliding them over the t-nuts letting them meet the main tower extrusion
and tighten the 2 screws (don't over tighten, once everything is in place we will revisit tightening all
screws).
4. repeat for 3 remaining 418mm extrusions
Repeat this process for the top of the tower.
Once all 4 418mm extrusions been connected you can add the outer corner brackets. Each outer corner bracket
takes 6 M6 Screws and 6 T-nuts (40 on the corners and 2 on the center back plate).

Repeat this process adding the second rail and third.
The third will be a bit more convoluted as at that point you're dealing with an open ended triangle. The process
remains the same though.
Once all towers have been added you get the Printer frame as seen in the image about (minus the movable bed
mechanism, which is an upgrade to be published later).

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Step 12: Flying Extruder

Flying extruders are not uncommon on Delta Printers. Especially larger printer like this one almost must have one
as mounting the extruder on the frame would result in extremely long bowden tubes.
For the C3Dt/bd, I took the Flying extruder to the next level by suspending it from both the Carriage adapters AND
a unique wire management system (i.e. rst time Slinky use ever in a 3D printer).
I've also designed the Extruder with a mount that allows swapping, one for another, or simply removing it for
maintenance, by means of three "thumb" screws.
Parts needed:
BondTech BMG extruder (1x)

Nema 17 Stepper Motor (1x)
Braided Sleeving (~8 meter)
8mm 5/16th screw rod (90mm) (3x)
Cup hook (3x)
Shrink tubing 1/4" (or black electric tape)
Latex Rubber Tubing 33cm
Fasteners
Micro Zip Ties (8x)

M3 Hex nuts (2x)
M6 T-nuts
3D Printer Parts
CenterRing.stl
ExtruderRing.stl
CenterRingBracket.stl (3x)
BracketRing.stl
ExtrBracket.stl
Cut 3 pieces of 90mm 8mm screw rod and wrap in braided sleeve. Add 20mm of shrink tubing at both ends for all 3
rods and heat up. Cut o excess sleeve.
Insert three rods into CenterRing (doesn't have to be tight t as it is kept in place once in frame).
Add M6 20mm screw into all three CenterRingBrackets and connect T-Nuts.
Sleeve the entire Slinky (be patient) and add 1/4" shrink tubing at both ends and heat.
Connect slinky to CenterRing using the "channel" that is in the rings surface and put 4 zip ties that are closed on

the top.
Insert the 3 Cup hooks into the extruder ring and insert the 3 20mm m3 screws though the extruder ring.
Connect the bottom end of the slinky to the ExtruderRing using the "channel" and connect using the zip ties.
Assemble the BMG extruder and Stepper motor as seen in the image about.
Cut 3 pieces of Latex at about 11cm. I wrapped them in braided sleeving (like everying else exible). Make sure
there's enough ex left in the weaving when applying it.
Work one end of the latex over the cuphook on the center ring and work the other end over the cup hook on the
Carriage Adapter. Do this for all three hooks on the Center Ring.
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Step 13: Heated Bed
WARNING: T his pa rt o f t he pro ce s s is t he o ne o f t w o s t e ps w he re y o u w ill be e xpo s e d t o 110

Vo lt m a ins . I' v e de s ig ne d t he ca s e t o be e nclo s e d s o w he n nis he d it is s a f e . PLEAS E BE
C AREFUL, 110 Vo lt hurt s a nd ca n kill, no t t o m e nt io n t he 220 Vo lt if y o u' re e ls e w he re in t he
w o rld.
Parts Needed
330mm diameter aluminum bed (1/8th or 1/4th inch thick)

Keenovo 110Volt silcone heater
SSR (Solid state relay)
22 Gauge wire (approx 80cm)
Stepper Wire (approx 1.5 meters)
Braided sleeving (approx 230cm)
BuildTak Flex Plate System
PEI sheet 12"x12"
Double sided 3M tape 12"x12"
Cork sheet
fasteners
#10 3/4" washers (6x)

m3 14mm hex socket screws (7x)
M3 T-nut (1x)
M3 hex nut (6x)
M6 T-nut (6x)
3D printed parts

Bed Clamp_0125.stl (3x) for 1/8" thick bed
Bed Clamp_025.stl (3x) for 1/4" thick bed
On the original C3Dt/bd, I have a 1/4" 330mm aluminum plate. I recently found out the vendor I purchased it from,
no longer cuts 1/4 inch aluminum. He does still cut 1/8th inch aluminum which is actually the size of most printer
beds. reach out to https://www.ebay.com/usr/lumberjack1983 and ask him for the 330mm diameter disc.
If you print the bed clamps using PETG, please be aware that the glass transition temperature for PETG is about 80
Celcius so heating the bed above that may start warping the clamps. If you plan on exceeding bed temperatures of
80, you would be better o printing these with ABS.
There will however be a layer of cork between the bed and plastic so maybe PETG will work just ne.
I equip all my 3D printers with a BuildTak explate system. I've once created a magnetic bed myself and it is simply
not worth the trouble. BuildTak's largest disc ex plate system is 12" in diameter which is enough for this build. They
do cut the actual explate steel to size at request.
BuildTak can provide either their proprietary build surface or PEI sheet. I've become a huge fan of PEI. The rst layer
adhesion is simply fantastic and once the print is done it just pops o .
ht t ps://www.yout ube.com/embed/2kkeJOgElig
The heated bed uses a 110 volt Keenovo silicone heater. There are 12 volt options available but it would take a real
long time to heat a 330mm bed at 12 volt.
The Keenovo silicon pad comes with both the electric wires and thermistor wires integrated. I actually did an
instructable on upgrading to a 110volt before that you can nd here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrade-
3D-Printe...
For this build the important part is the schematic as seen in the image included here. Instead of heaving the 12 volt
power wires from the controller board go directly to the bed they go to the Solid State Relay (SSR) instead. 110 volt
wires will come directly from the PSU with the live wire going through the SSR.
This means you'll need enough 22 gauge wire connected to reach the PSU (in my design about 80cm) and enough
wire to reach the SRR and thermistor wires from the Control board (in this design about 150cm). You can use a 4
wired stepper wire for this.
You can connect the SSR with a single m3 screw (14mm) and M3 T-nut to the frame.
I recommend wrapping the 110 volt wires in a seperate braided sleeve from all 12Volt wires (and put some marking
tape to recognize it as such). If you plan to upgrade to a movable bed when this feature becomes available add a
second "spare" stepper wire (4 strands) to the wiring sleeve from the control board.

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Step 14: Power Unit Assembly
WARNING: T his pa rt o f t he pro ce s s is t he o ne o f t w o s t e ps w he re y o u w ill be e xpo s e d t o 110

Vo lt m a ins . I' v e de s ig ne d t he ca s e t o be e nclo s e d s o w he n nis he d it is s a f e . PLEAS E BE
C AREFUL, 110 Vo lt hurt s a nd ca n kill, no t t o m e nt io n t he 220 Vo lt if y o u' re e ls e w he re in t he
w o rld.
Parts needed

Mean Well 24 Volt PSU
Power Socket Switch (10A fused)
22 Gauge wire
Power Cord
Fork Quick connects (8x)
Quick wire connects (4x)
Braided sleeving (approx 300cm)
Fasteners
M3 square nuts (4x)

M3 T-nut (4x)
M3 hex nut (2x)
M3 35mm hex socket (2x)
Printer Parts
Power Extrusion Adapter Bottom.stl

Power Extrusion Adapter Top.stl
Power Arm Bottom Adapter.stl
Power Arm Top Adapter.stl
ToggleSwitchPlate.stl
PowerUnitCover.stl
For the C3Dt/bd I've used a Mean Well 24 volt PSU. Use fork connectors to connect the wires to the PSU and Quick
Wire connects to connect to the power switch. It's the right way to do it.
The proper wiring can be seen in the images above. Before nishing up, it's probably a good idea to check if the live
wire, really is live. Plugged in and turned on, test with a volt meter (if you're wiring live 110V, you really need to own,
and know how to use, one).
If you mistakenly swap the Live with Neutral, thing will operate as expected but when you turn o your printer (via
switch) power is still present.
Before enclosing the Power unit, run the 24V output wires through the hole provided in the side. Technically you
only need the one pair to power the Duet Wi but if you want to be ready for future expansion (like LED or other
type of foreseeable electrics) I recommend putting out wires for all three output pairs on the power unit.
Since the heated bed runs on 110 Volt also extend the 110 volt as output wires long enough to reach the heated
bed (on this design about 80cm).

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Step 15: Controller Board Case Assembly
Parts needed

Duet Wi Controller
40mm fans 24 Volt (2x)
3mm acrylic (180x180mm) 2x
Fasteners

M3 t-nut (4x)
M3 hex nut (16x)
M3 square nut (4x)
3D Printed parts
Board Arm Bottom.stl

BoardCornerBottomLeftExtrusionAdapter.stl
BoardCornerBottomLeft.stl
BoardArmTop.stl
BoardCornerTopLeftExtrusionAdapter.stl
BoardCornerTopLeft.stl
BoardCornerBottomRight.stl
BoardCornerTopRight.stl
BoardBracket.stlKnob.stl (4x)
Template les
Top plate template.pdf

Bottom plate template.pdf
This case was designed to pivot o the back tower of the printer. All wiring to and from originate from the left
opening in the case.
Make sure the openings at the top and bottom are cleared as the air ow is needed to cool the MCU and stepper
drivers.
I strongly recommend you cut the acrylic to size with a cutter designed for this task. Trying this with a Stanley knife
will lead to regret (Learned the hard way).
You can drill the holes based on the drawings (pdf les) or you can simply place the 3D printed corner pieces on the
acrylic and use it as guides for drilling the holes.

I designed the top plate to be fastened with thumb screws so you can easily remove and maintain the board and/or
wiring.
To prevent the square nuts from falling out, I used a little hot glue on the cavities after inserting the Square nuts
that are there to capture the thumbscrews.
On the C3Dt/bd, the case is mounted approximately 105cm from the ground (to bottom of case). You're free to
hang it elsewhere but if you do make sure all your wires can still reach it.
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FRT/L1SY/JUINCHB3/FRTL1SYJUINCHB3.pdf
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Step 16: Delta Smart Effector
Parts needed
Delta Smart E ector (1x)

magballs (6x)
Magnetic Arms (6x)
Stepper wire 14 strands (at least 3.5 meters long)
40mm 24 volt fan (2x)
Shrink tubing
Braided sleeving
ptfe bowden tube (about 280mm)
Printed parts
Delta Smart E ector Dual 40mm fan Adapter.stl

E ectorFanBraket.stl
The Delta Smart E ector in combination with the Duet Wi makes working with a delta real easy. The Adapter has a
built-in piezo that can detect the bed. That feature in combination with the bed probing make calibrating a delta
easy (generally one of the bigger hurdles to building a delta).

The Delta Smart E ector comes with the actual e ector and three carriage brackets. The Carriage brackets are not
needed as this design uses the custom designed carriage adapter already present on the towers.
In this instructable, I won't go into the detailed setup as the product documentation does a great job of it. You can
nd it all here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Smart_e ector_and_...
fair warning, don't skip the part about the glue.
The stock Delta Smart e ector comes with a E3D heatsink that ts the e3d cooling fan but it's LOUD. I designed a
new fan shroud that handles both parts cooling and heatsink cooling with 2 40mm fans.
The wiring to the Delta Smart E ector has 14 wires leading to it but don't forget about the ying extruder (some
200mm above it). It needs 4 stepper wires to operate the extruder. So when sleeving the wires make sure you
account for the stepper motor wires as well (total of 18 strands).
The printed dual fan adapter is a remix of the design by Rod Smith https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808152
makes for a very tight t but it does t. It may take a little bending to get it on.
When connecting the magnetic arms to the e ector, I've have best luck with putting opposite poles right next to
each other at the e ector's adjoining magballs. You may have to play with this but these magnetic arms can e ect
the operation of the fans underneath. When I connected them "wrong" once the probing of the bed failed due to
continues false positives on the probes. re-arranging the magnetic arms xed this.
At this point you can also add the bowden tube between the Extruder and the Delta Smart E ector. I used about

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Step 17: PanelDue LCD Display
Parts needed
PanelDue 7i (comes with Cable 3 meter)
Fasteners
Wood screws #4 3/4" (4x)

M3 t-nut (1x)
M3 hex nut (2x)
Printed parts
CaseLid.stl
Case.stl
Case Adapter.stl
Case Arm.stl
CaseExtrusionAdapter.stl
I have to admit that a touch screen on this printer is nice but somewhat redundant. Other than at shows, I pretty
much control everything on this printer via the web interface.
For the C3Dt/bd I've choosen the simple 4 pin connection as opposed to the more complicated wiring in case of
using the Card reader on the LCD. The case I designed here DOES NOT have access to the micro SD card. It's just too
easy to upload les directly from the computer to deal with that.
On my design I used more than 2 meters of wire leaving me the possibility of holding the LCD in hand while
working at the bottom of the printer.
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Step 18: Wiring the Duet Wifi

The Duet Wi comes with all the connectors needed Stop and Z stop (make sure you have the GND and
to crimp all the wires. Thoughout all the previous 3.3volt connector properly).
steps, I believe I've left enough length on all the
wiring to reach the controller board. The Delta Smart E ector Probe has a dedicated Z-
PROBE (next to the Panel Due connection) connection
The wiring can all be easily tucked away in the on the Duet Wi Board.
aluminum extrusion where it can meet in the middle
at the contoller case. The two fans connected to the Controller bracket are
connected in parallel to the PWM Fan 2 connector.
I'm not going into the detailed wiring instructions as
the Duet documentation covers all of this in detail at The parts cooling fan is connected to the PWM Fan 0
their site:
The Heat Sink cooling fan is connected to PWM Fan 1
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/c/Duet_Hardware
The LCD connects to the Panel Due 4 pin connector
some pointers: on the board (next to the Z PROBE connector).
For this printer we connect 4 stepper motors (X, Y, Z The two thermistors (bed and hot-end) connect to
and E0) which corresponds to Drive 0 thru 3 their associated connectors on the board.
We use 3 end stops with correspond with X Stop, Y
Step 19: Configuring the C3Dt/bd Duet Wifi
What I love most about the Duet Wi (and it's rmware is the ability to con gure EVERYTHING with g-codes.
No need to re ash your board everytime something changes. getting started with the Duet Wi is well described in
the Duet online documentation and has some necessary steps to get connected to your home wi .
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/1.)+Getting+Connec...

Once connected the documentation will lead you to the wiring (and associated setup)
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/2.)+Wiring+your+Du...
For this setup you can skip steps 11, 15, 16, 17, 20
after this you can start con guration ( rst general cartesian)
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/3.)+Con guration+...
with di erences for a Delta printer to be found here:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Con guringRepRapFi...
For step 12 use the following:
; Endstops<br>M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S0 ; Set active high endstops
For Step 16 use the following:
; Z-Probe<br>M558 P5 R0.4 H5 F2400 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to effector and the dive heigh
t + speeds
From there move on to the con guration speci cally for a Delta Printer
for the movement section you will need to put in the parameters of your delta printer. This is what it looks like for
the C3Dt/c. Note, your hight might be slightly di erent. When your e ector is homed, measure the distance
between the end of the nozzle and your bed. That is what you'll use for the H parameter.
M665 R182 L360 B150 H1240 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
I have con gured my fans for di erent purposes.
The Heatsink fan will only turn on when the hotend reaches 45 Celcius
The Controller board fans will only kick in when the MCU reaches 40 Celcius or the Stepper drivers get overheat
warning
The Parts cooling fan is controlled by the slicer software.
; Fans<br>M106 P0 S0.0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 T45 S0.999 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 L230 T40:65 H100:101:102 ;controller fan turn on when MCU reaches 40Celcius or when TMC26.. report over temp
I've attached my con g.h and homedelta.h le but be aware that some values might be di erent on your
implementation.
The con guration of the auto calibration setup can be found here:

It has a wizard that will generate the bed.g le for you.
BE WARE: The M558 probing command in the con g.h uses H5 to to the probe 5mm above the bed. First time
trying this change it to something bigger (like H20) and keep your nger on the o -button in case it drills into the
bed.
Also before probing for real for the rst time test the Delta Smart E ector to make sure it's sensor works. See video
below:
ht t ps://www.yout ube.com/embed/yJsAbX4 szSk
Once the rst probe is done (G32) the information is stored in the con g-override.g les.
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FYU/F3SO/JUINGN7N/FYUF3SOJUINGN7N.g
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https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FR5/LDQX/JUINGNSI/FR5LDQXJUINGNSI.g
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Step 20: Final Thoughts
If you've taken the money and e ort to build this printer, I have to assume that you know how to 3D print (this is
not a starter printer). I recommend starting with something like the 3DBenchy or some other calibration models.
Here's an article on this
https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-test-print-10-best...
Big g e r be d
I'm often asked why I went with such a high printer with such a small bed. First let me point out that 330mm
diameter is bigger than most commercial printers but that said; nothing in this design stops you from going with a
bigger bed. I currently use 418mm vertical extrusion but if you want to go with bigger simply lengthen these and
go with a bigger bed. Few considerations before you do though. Going with a bigger bed (say 600mm diameter)
means:

Getting bigger heater, which keenovo might make but it will be pricey.
Getting a bigger bed is most likely custom cut as well.
Warping of the bed becomes more of a factor when heating.
Having a exible spring steel bed plate is probably out of the question.
Bigger bed means longer e ector arms. You may need these custom made.
Longer e ector arms means you loose in Z height. At some point most of the Z height on the rails
will be used for movement of the arms rather than get higher prints.
Example: Going with a:
500mm diameter bed would imply Arms of about 532mm (based on 20 degree angle), which means instead of
1240mm z-height, you'll be left with 1068mm z-height.
1240mm z-height, you'll be left with 960mm z-height.
1240mm z-height, you'll be left with 536mm. z-height.
In the latter case half of the total size of the printer would be applied to arm movement and not print height.
M o v a ble be d
Some of you may be disappointed that this instructable does not include the movable bed as seen on youtube or
maybe even at some of the live shows (like maker faires or MRRF). I will eventually add this either to this instructable
or as a separate instructable. I won't do this until I have my budget for next year together. You can expedite this by
hopping over to gofundme.com as soon as I've reached my goal I can move on to my next project and get the old
one open source.
Have fun building this printer. I was absolutely amazed by the quality of prints compared to all of my previous
models (i3, cantelever, CoreXY).
Check out and subscribe to my youtube channel which will feature plenty of videos using the C3Dt/bd.
Here's the biggest print I've made to date:
ht t ps://www.yout ube.com/embed/Mt 6Z9qi1-NA
This one I think is runner up
To o big ?
Totally understand. This is big and most people don't need a printer this big. If you still want to build a printer,
check out my much smaller but fully featured Cantilever printer the C3Dt/c you can nd the instructions for it here:
https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Cantil...

Step 21: Galary
Here as simply some images of the printer after and Canadian Maker Project:
during construction.
Following are some notable mentions/observations

by some knows names in the 3D printing community:
ht t ps://www.yout ube.com/embed/c2A_ihFWxHQ?st art =235
Tom Sanladerer:
ht t ps://www.yout ube.com/embed/Czsn3sdHTFQ?st art =722

ht t ps://www.yout ube.com/embed/PWKQ6Y4 _mkU
Joe at 3DMN:
ht t ps://www.yout ube.com/embed/M8-LuYKYmnc?st art =4 31

http://winsionliang.com/3d-print-works/huge-3d-pri...
I let you see what I did before ... :-p
Wonderful Instructable, and thank you so much for bringing this printer to MRRF! Getting to talk to
you about your printer was one of my favorite parts!
Thx, It'll be tough to top this one next year at MRRF, but I'll try nonetheless.
Wow -master of the third dimension.

Even the Instructable is a work of art.
Thanks for sharing all that hard work
Thank you. I appreciate that. This feedback makes all the hard work even more worthwhile.
Wow! This is huge! There must be some kind of award this can win...
Than you, I can now print giant trophies and keep em for myself ;-)
Holy mother of printers! That is beautiful!
Thank you, that's what I aimed for. I believe Form should be up there with function.
Very impressive! I can't afford to build one, but i've been wanting to learn more about how they
work. No better way to do that than know how they're built. Thanks! You should enter this in an
instructables contest, you'd definitely win ;)
Best of luck at the maker fairs!
Thank you! no categories of contest that lines up with this printer this time. My last Printer
https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Cantilever-20-C3Dtc/ did end up as runner up in one of
the contests. (Smaller and way more affordable)
Very honorable that you disclosed your relationship with Amazon. Thank you for your amazing
honesty
This project is really cool.The size of this project is amazing.
Ok, that is definitely the coolest build I've seen in awhile. I'm so proud of my itty bitty 23X36 table
top model. Your design is the Everest of printers.
So cool.
Thank you!

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instructables

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)

Build Volume: 330mm(dia)x124 0 m m

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 3

Ha rdw a re Latex Tubing $12.99: https://amzn.to/2GkgnUC

Linear Rail 1630mm x3 $1,194.00: Acrylic sheet $15.61: https://amzn.to/2VYE6PH

Gt2 belt 10m x2 $25.76 https://amzn.to/2I9ZHBk Nema 17 Stepper Motor x1 $10.98:

BMG extruder $89.99: https://amzn.to/2U91dVQ 22 Gauge wire for heater $10.98

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 4

Wiring spade quick connectors $9.99:

Shrink Tubing $8.37: https://amzn.to/2X89efG M4 Lock Washers $2.71: McMaster Carr

Fa s t e ne rs M4 10mm hex socket screws $8.79:

M5 10mm hex socket screws $9.38 PLA $x3 $60.00: https://amzn.to/2GdQ3vn

M3 20mm hex socket screws $9.25:

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 5

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 6

2000mm 1515 extrusion

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 7

Tower Idler Bracket.stl

*Two carriages/blocks for future upgrade to movable bed

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 8

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 9

Step 4: First of 3 Towers: the Idler Bracket

M6 16mm Hex socket screw (2x)

Tower Idler Bracket.stl

Step 5: First of 3 Towers: the Nema 23 Bracket

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 11

M6 16mm hex socket screw (3x)

Tower Nema Bracket.stl

Insert the 3 M6 16mm Bolts and connect the t-nuts.

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 12

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 13

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 14

M3 square nuts (3x)

Carriage Adapter Body.stl

The carriage adapter on this delta serves several functions.

1. It moves the e ector via the arms connected to the MagBalls.

Assembly is fairly straight forward.

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 15

Step 8: First of 3 Towers: Adding Belt

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 16

Makerbot style end stop (1x)

Tower End Stop Case.stl

Insert M3 screw 16mm through case and add t-nut.

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 18

Step 11: Connecting the Three Towers

3 Towers constructed in previous steps

M6 10mm hex socket screws (84x)

at the bottom of the rail:

Repeat this process for the top of the tower.

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 19

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 20

Step 12: Flying Extruder

BondTech BMG extruder (1x)

Micro Zip Ties (8x)

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 22

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 23

Step 13: Heated Bed

WARNING: T his pa rt o f t he pro ce s s is t he o ne o f t w o s t e ps w he re y o u w ill be e xpo s e d t o 110

330mm diameter aluminum bed (1/8th or 1/4th inch thick)

#10 3/4" washers (6x)

3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta): Page 24