EASY S U S TA I N A B L E LIVING

Summer
Beat the heat
in your home TOP
TOP TEN
TEN
and garden HEIRLOOM
HEIRLOOM
VEGIES
VEGIES
SAVE MONEY
easy ways to
reduce waste
FILL IN
CREATE A JUICE THE GAPS
from almost any with herbs
vegetable

Plus
Butter, blueberries,
sauces, recipes and more
FULL OF ECO-FRIENDLY ADVICE AND IDEAS
Summer
8

Contents Issue 6

Environment
Organic flower industry ....................................................... 4
Planning sustainable home renovation .......................... 5
Reducing Household Waste................................................ 6
Summer – Beating the heat .............................................. 26

Vegies
Eco-friendly – Waterside vacation fun ........................ 38
Composting – Making and managing it ....................... 58

Community
Community Gardens ........................................................... 16

Garden

Eco Holidays
C
Vegetables For Summer ....................................................... 8
Heirlooms Summer Tomatoes – What a treat! .......... 14
Chicken Eggs – All you need or want to know............ 20
Summer Survival – For your garden .............................. 30
Summer Scents .................................................................... 32
Blueberries ............................................................................ 42
Growing Herbs and Vegies for your Chickens ........... 48
Versatile Herbs – Filling in the gaps ............................. 68
Growing Grapes .................................................................... 76

Profile
Profile – People for Plants ............................................... 50

38
Community

16 20

2 HOME GROWN
2 HOME GROWN
Eggs
 Blueberries
42

58

Compost Do it yourself
Pallets to Bench Seat and Storage/Planter Box .......................54

To the table
Butter Tastes Better ............................................................................46
Vegetable Juices....................................................................................64
Preserving Tips ......................................................................................72

Recipes
Butter Sauces and Cooking Tips .............................................................55
Immune Booster – Blender Recipe .........................................................67
Green Zingy Smoothie ..................................................................................67
The Mediterranean ........................................................................................67
Awesome Orange ............................................................................................67
Leonie’s Vegetable Smoothie ....................................................................67
Fermented Hot Chilli Sauce .......................................................................74

Flowers
Herbs

32 68 HOME GROWN 3
 Organic edible flowers
Meet the small organic flower industry that is colouring our world ethically.
News
Janelle Johnston is the only organically
certified grower of edible flowers
in Australia. About 15 years ago she
certified six-and-a-half hectares of her
family’s farm on the outskirts of Byron
Bay with Australian Certified Organic and
has since grown organic fruit, vegetables
and edible flowers.
With a science degree specialising in
botany, Janelle featured nasturtiums and
marigolds in her salad mixes, inspiring
local chefs to request other organic edible
flowers as no one else in the region was
doing it. She now supplies to the Sydney
and Brisbane wholesale markets.
“One of the challenges is that you get a
lot of wastage in flowers – more than 50
per cent – so I’m certainly doing this for the
love rather than for the money.”
The edible flowers can last for up to
12 days if picked and packed on the same
day and properly refrigerated throughout
the supply chain.
To retain freshness, Janelle packs
the flowers in sealed 20-gram punnets
that retail for $8–10. Flowers that are
delicate and difficult to pick, such as
violas and pansies, are sold in 10-gram
punnets.
“Being organic and not sprayed, the
flowers tend to retain freshness a lot
4 HOME GROWN
8 HOME GROWN
better. You have to know what to pick and
when to pick it.”
Janelle uses her website
byronbayorganicproduce.com.au to
market this niche enterprise and educate
people about edible flowers.
“We have to show the buyers that
certified organic flowers are a better
product as they’re not sprayed, they last
longer and they’re the way nature intended
– you can taste the difference!”
Cafes are turning to edible flowers
to bring beauty, fragrance and colour to
dishes and are receiving awed reactions
from customers.
“We use edible flowers purely for
aesthetic reasons. We’re the only cafe
I know in the region doing it, and it has
become our signature thing,” says Sara
Gleeson at Naked Treaties in Byron Bay.
Melbourne florist Lindsey Myra says
she entered the cut flower industry to
make a difference and she’s working hard
to become certified organic. She says, “To
my knowledge, nobody who is operating as
I am is certified. I believe that this is due to
a lack of certifiable inputs for this industry,
the difficulty of certification when one is
dealing with such a wide range of product
and the costs involved. Personally, I would
love to be the first to overcome these
issues and pave the way for more people
like me but it’s baby steps at the moment.”
Established in 2012 as The Urban
Flower Farm in a Melbourne backyard,
The Little Flower Farm is the first of its
kind in Victoria, with heirloom varieties
preferred, companion planting standard
practice and no genetically modified seed
or bulb stock purchased.
“I use the terms ‘lovingly home grown’
and I market an idyllic, abundant lifestyle,
overflowing with old fashioned flowers,”
she says.
In the future she aims to create a
community share agriculture program
for getting flowers direct from farm to
flower lover.
Lindsey says that there is definitely
scope for more locationally specific small-
to-medium-sized organic cut flower and
edible flower markets. She thinks the public
might be prepared to pay 10 to 15 per cent
more for an organic option in a traditional
flower retail outlet.
“I believe the receptiveness for these
markets already exists and is growing
among the public; we need to get our
farming and processes up to scratch to
make the most of it.”
www.austorganic.com.
Planning a smarter more sustainable home renovation?
Sustainability Victoria has officially
launched a new report and Smarter
Renovations Planner – an online tool to
help Victorian home renovators calculate
the value of including energy efficiency
options in their home improvements, at
the 
ald Sun  Show this weekend.
Sustainability Victoria CEO Stan Krpan
said making smart decisions about energy
saving additions early in the project could
greatly increase the long term financial
and environmental benefits of a home
renovation, and avoid renovation regrets
down the track.
“The research found home renovators
who incorporate energy efficiency
improvements can save hundreds of
dollars on their energy bills every year –
with measures such as draught proofing
and efficient lighting saving households
almost $300 per year,” Mr Krpan said.
The report shows that Victorians
spend more than $2 billion renovating
their homes every year and are likely
To learn more, read our blog at blog.theteacentre.com.au
or to see our full range of teas visit us at
theteacentre.com.au
to stay in their home for more than • Not selecting double gazed windows
10 years, which means any energy • Poor design.
efficiency improvements will prove to
be a worthwhile investment. The new research and Sustainability
And for those looking to sell, the Victoria’s Smarter Renovations Planner are
inclusion of such measures will improve now available at www.sustainability.vic.gov.
the value of a property as well as add au/smarter-renovations.
selling points when taking it to market.
Mr Krpan said taking practical
action to be smarter with energy and water
could help Victorian households save money.
“I would encourage anyone planning
a renovation to have a look through this
informative research and use the tool to
work out how much extra value they can
derive from their renovation project by
adding some energy saving measures,”
Mr Krpan said.
Sustainability Victoria’s research
found that the top five renovation
regrets are:
• Inadequate insulation
• Air leakage
• Poor lighting
For twenty-one years, The Tea Centre
has strived to source only the finest teas
from the most reputable tea plantations.
We have formed strong relationships
with small farming communities across
India and Sri Lanka in the interest of
supporting sustainable and organic
farming practices and advocating
human rights.
Before landing in your teapot, our tea
undergoes the strictest quality testing
for chemical residues under European
Union standards, which are some of
the highest in the world.
Air-freighted and packaged as it is
purchased, our tea is so fresh the aroma
will take you straight back to the garden
from which it was picked.
HOME GROWN 5
Environment
Reducing
Household Waste
A refresher on tips to reduce waste in your kitchen, bathroom and laundry
O
n average Australians throw
away around 21 million tonnes
of waste per year, which includes
waste from our kitchens, bathrooms,
laundries and gardens. It also includes
building waste generated from building
and renovating our homes. Although we’ve
made great improvements in our waste
disposal habits over recent years, there
are still lots of ways we can do more.
Become aware
Rethink your assumptions about what
waste is. If we shift our thinking about the
lifespan of products that we use and the
lifecycle of produce that we consume, we
can make landfill a last resort.
Keeping food fresh for
as long as possible
6 HOME GROWN
Think about how we create waste and
the variety of ways we can reduce, re-use Tips for reducing household waste
and recycle. Nothing is waste—until • Buy fewer products. Do you buy
we throw it away. By refusing excess multiple products when one will
packaging or making a decision not to do the job? For example, the same
purchase things brand new, we can reduce cleaner can be used on your mirrors,
the amount of unnecessary waste sent tiles and shower recess.
to landfill, and reduce the demand for • Buy in bulk. It saves you money, and
manufacturers to make new materials. reduces packaging waste.
Recycling and re-using products also • Reduce your use of chemicals by
has a big impact on reducing waste. Look using environmentally friendly
for ways to recycle, or pass unwanted products. Check the labels of
items onto friends or charities. the products you buy. Are they
Find out about recycling in your area. biodegradable and free from
Contact your local council to find out petrochemicals?
what services exist and what they do and • Clean effectively without chemicals
don’t collect. This will help make sure your for example use bicarbonate of soda
or white vinegar applied with water
and a soft cloth.
• Limit the chemicals and waste that
© absolutimages @ Shutterstock
you put down your sink and toilet,
as what goes down our household
drains ends up in our waterways and
oceans.
• Use old items of cotton clothing for
soft cleaning cloths.
• Re-use existing containers and buy
refills.
• Buy toothbrushes and shavers with
replaceable heads.
• Refill your liquid soap containers.
• Buy toilet paper made from recycled
paper or plantation timber.
• Recycle paper products like tissue
boxes, toilet paper rolls and boxes
that package beauty products.
• Recycle your bathroom and laundry
containers. Be careful to check the
recycle number on the bottom of
plastic containers to ensure that
your local council will accept them in
your recycle bin.
recycling doesn’t end up in landfill. You can
also find recycling facilities at Planet Ark’s
Recycling Near You website.
Packaging makes up a significant part
of the rubbish in landfill. If you can buy in
bulk, you can save money, packaging and
transport costs. If not, you could try to
choose products that use less packaging.
Reducing the amount of disposable
products you use makes a big difference
to your overall level of waste.
Refusing plastic bags when you don’t
need them saves resources and energy
used to manufacture the bags. You’ll also
reduce the amount of waste that ends
up in landfill. Remember to take your
re-usable bags out with you so you can
refuse plastic bags.
Kitchen and food waste
Food waste is a growing area of concern,
with many costs to our community in
terms of waste collection, disposal and
greenhouse gases. When your rotting food
ends up in landfill it turns into methane,
a greenhouse gas that is particularly
damaging to the environment. Food waste
costs you money and also wastes the
valuable water and energy resources used
to produce the food.
Shopping and planning
Much of the food waste in our kitchens
comes from inadequate planning or simply
buying too much food.
It’s important to plan meals around
what food is left in your fridge, as a large
proportion of food waste comes from
food that’s past its use-by date. Plan your
shopping too—having a list will help keep
you on track and save you money.
The other reason we tend to waste
food is because we cook or prepare too
much. Portion control means preparing
just the right amount. Work out how
much you and your family really eat, and
check a portion guide. Also, make sure
you store leftovers in the fridge for easy
meals or snacks.
Storage in the fridge
Keep your food fresh and avoid wasting
energy by having your fridge set at the
right temperature—between 3 and 4 °C
for the fridge and between minus 1 5 and
minus 18°C for the freezer. Use a fridge
thermometer to check. Airtight containers
are great for keeping leftovers, plus they
make good reusable sandwich boxes.
Lots of food can be stored in the
freezer until you need it.
Compost and worm farms
E ven though food waste is organic and will
generally decompose, when it mixes with
other waste in landfill it can contribute to
the production and release of dangerous
gases, like methane, which is harmful to
the environment.
Food waste can also easily be recycled
© Monkey Business Images @ Shutterstock
into compost. Composted mulch applied
to your garden helps capture carbon in the
soil, which means you improve the health
of your soil and assist water retention.
You can also recycle food waste by
turning it into rich fertiliser through a
worm farm. You can have a worm farm
even if you live in an apartment and don’t
have much space. You can buy worm farm
kits that fit under your sink or on your
verandah which make it easy if you have Never too young to start
limited space.
Minimise bathroom, toilet and laundry waste
The bathroom, toilet and laundry are
always in use, and can be high-use areas
for chemicals, so the choices we make can
make a big difference to the amount and
type of waste we produce. With a little
thought and planning we can reduce waste,
save money and improve our wellbeing.
Dispose of hazardous waste correctly
Some waste products from the bathroom
and laundry can be hazardous and should
be disposed of correctly at a hazardous
waste centre. Hazardous waste cannot
be disposed of in your regular garbage
© Madlen @ Shutterstock
collection, because it can leach into landfill
sites and waterways and cause serious
health risks.
Hazardous waste may include products
like drain cleaners or chemical products.
Check with your local council or Planet Kitchen scraps in compost
Ark’s RecyclingNearYou for collection
services available in your area. Old Recycled compost
medicines can be dangerous to people and
can also impact our unique biodiversity.
You can return unwanted and out-of-
© Donald Barger @ Shutterstock
date medicines to any pharmacy for safe
disposal. HG
© Commonwealth of Australia
(Department of Industry)
HOME GROWN 7
 HEIRLOOM
Garden

Vegetables
egetables For Summ
Summer
By Gavin Cole, John Mason and Adriana Fraser.

W
e read a lot these days about
‘heritage’ or ‘heirloom’ varieties
of vegetable plants. These are
traditional varieties which have been
grown over many centuries by regional
communities but have not been adopted by
the agriculture industry, usually because
it is not economically viable for them to
grow for a number of reasons. Perhaps
they don’t produce as many fruits per
acre, they need more care, or they are just
slower growing.
Many people prefer the taste of the
old varieties and would argue that they
are well worth growing. Others like the
idea of saving seeds and using seed banks
which means that they do not have to rely
on large seed companies for their seeds.
The view held by most experts is that
heirloom varieties are those that were
popular before the 1950s because it was
around this time that plant breeders began
hybridising vegetables.
Heirloom varieties are ‘open-pollinated’

Tomatoes

8 HOME GROWN
– that is, they are pollinated in nature
through the activity of insects, wind or
water without any human interference.
They produce viable seed and are fairly
stable in their characteristics – the
seedlings you grow from saved seed will
be much like the parent plants, but not
quite as consistently uniform as cultivars.
In other words, you can grow your own
heirloom vegetable, collect the seed, sow
it the following year, and get the same
vegetables year after year. You cannot do
this with many modern hybrid cultivars.
For these you need to buy and sow fresh
seed each year.
Heirloom varieties also tend to be
hardy, resilient types. They needed to
Beetroots
be tough in order to be selected and
grown year after year in the 1 9 th and
early 2 0 th centuries before the advent of
hybridisation. This makes them a reliable
choice for home growers.
Some heirloom vegetables are still
grown widely and sold as seeds or
seedlings through large nurseries. These
varieties may also be marketed and
sold in the fruit and vegetable sections
of supermarkets. The great majority of
heritage vegies are only be grown by home
gardeners though, from seed supplied
by specialist seed suppliers (several
advertise in this magazine).

Why choose to grow the more obscure

heritage vegetables?
One thing you’ll notice is that many older
varieties look and taste different to the
typical supermarket and greengrocer Deers’ Tongue Lettuce
produce you are familiar with. Modern
vegetables are often grown because they
look good, perfect in fact, and they keep
for a long time in the shop. But they don’t
always taste the best. Think how many
times you have tasted a bland tomato
or bitten into a tasteless carrot. These
crops are grown for the mass market. But
everyone is an individual, with individual
likes and dislikes, and many of us seek a
different experience in our food.
If you are willing to experiment with
heirloom crops, you may find exciting
new experiences and tastes that
are richer and more attuned to your
palette than anything you can buy in a
supermarket. Once you have tasted some
of these vegetables you will never want
to go back.

HOME GROWN 9
Pumpkin ‘Gold Nugget’
 Ten featured Heirloom vegetables
to grow now
Bean ‘Scarlet Runner’ – this plant gets
Garden
its name from its bright red flowers. The
pods may be eaten fresh or steamed. It
grows to 2m tall and produces up to 400
pods per plant. Space plants at 15cm.
Grow in full sun in warm regions and
water as required.
Beetroot ‘Detroit’ – this variety is popular
for both its baby leaves and the roots.
The globe shaped roots reach about 7cm
and have a very full flavour. Grow in well-
drained soil in full sun. Space plants at
10cm and sow at 15cm deep. They are
hardy plants suited to cooler regions.
Zucchini ‘Black Beauty’ Cabbage ‘Sugarloaf’ – these are unusual
conical shaped cabbages which make
Beetroot ‘Cylindra great salad greens but can also be
cooked. The heads are quite small but
some weigh between 1 and 1.5kg when
mature. They are best sown towards the
end of summer. Sow seeds 1.5cm deep
and space plants 40-60cm apart. Keep
them well watered.
Capsicum ‘Jalapeno’ – these grow to
60-90cm tall and bear fruit to 3-9cm
long. It takes around three months
for the fruits to mature. They may be
eaten when still green and usually taste
sweeter when red. Seeds should be sown
just 1cm deep and spaced at 45cm apart.
They may require staking for support.
Onion ‘White Lisbon’ – these spring
onions will continue cropping through to
autumn if planted every few weeks. They
do best in full sun and prefer a well-
drained and fertile soil. Seeds should be
sown to 0.5cm deep and spaced at 15cm
Silverbeet ‘Fordhook’ apart. They mature in six to eight weeks.
Pumpkin ‘Gold Nugget ’- these bear
relatively small golden orange fruits about
15cm wide. The rounded and flattened
fruits have orange flesh inside. You can
sow up to five seeds in a mound and then
thin out to several strong plants. Choose a
well-drained soil in a sunny spot and water
well. Fruits mature in 75-95 days.
Tomato ‘Oxheart’ – as the name implies,
the fruits of this tomato are somewhat
heart-shaped. They are also very
flavoursome and quite large weighing up
to 450g. Seeds should be sown at 0.5-

LOOMS
0.75cm deep and spaced at about 60cm
apart. They mature in around 80-90 days.
Larger tomatoes may be difficult to
grow in the warm tropics.

10 HOME GROWN
16 HOME GROWN
 ‘William Massey’ snow peas
Tomato factsheet
Did you know?
• Tomatoes are the most widely grown
vegetable by home gardeners.
• To avoid soil-borne diseases you should
not grow them in the same soil two
years running.
• Tomatoes are heavy nitrogen feeders
– mix nitrogen fertiliser into the soil
before planting.
• To avoid sun scorch, use a shade cloth
or grow in filtered sunlight.
• Water regularly – fruits will split if the
water supply fluctuates.
• Smaller tomatoes do better in tropical
climates where larger ones may perish
in the heat.
• They don’t like cold roots – keep them
warm with mulch once established.
• Build up the soil to just below the bottom
leaves of seedlings to encourage strong
root growth on the stem.
• Feed with a liquid feed fortnightly
during fruiting to stimulate fruit
maturity.
Bean ’Scarlet Runner’
Tomato ‘Roma’ – these produce smallish
fruits which are oblong in shape and
quite dense. The fruits are determinate
meaning they all mature at once. Their
thicker skins make them more conducive
to cooking than eating raw. Space plants
at 6 0 -9 0 cm apart and grow in full sun.
Vines can reach 2 m. Roma tomatoes (and
cherries) are a good choice for tropical
regions.
Tomato ‘Tommy Toe’ – these wonderful
heirloom cherry tomatoes produce
plenty of fruit and are long cropping.
They are ideal salad tomatoes. Plant
seeds to a depth of 1 cm and space at
4 0 -6 0 cm apart. Vines will reach 2 m.
Grow in full sun in a well-drained soil.
Zucchini ‘Black Beauty’ – these provide
deep green fruit about 5 cm wide and up
to 2 0 cm long. The flesh is a very pale
creamy-white. Space plants at 1 .2 m
apart. Fruits mature in 4 5 -5 0 days and
they will crop continuously if picked.
They taste great when cooked but can
also be eaten fresh.
Tips for growing vegetables in pots
Many vegetables are versatile enough
to be grown in pots, which is ideal if you
don’t have a lot of space. It is also useful
if you want to move the pots, say into
a greenhouse towards the end of the
growing season or to avoid bad weather.
Using pots also means that you can change
the soil each year to limit the spread of
soil-borne diseases and you can start off
each time with replenished soil.
If you do decide to grow vegetables
in pots, some seem to fare better than
others. In particular, you can successfully
grow – tomatoes, lettuce, rocket, bok
choy, chives, capsicum, chilli, beans and
spring onions. You can also grow many
others, so don’t be put off.
• Vegetables grow profusely over
summer – use deep pots to allow for
root growth.
• Use planters or troughs for row crops
like spring onions and lettuces.
• Plastic pots are lighter and therefore
easier to move if you need to.
HOME GROWN 11
Garden

Bean ‘Purple King’ Garlic Eggplants

What can be planted and grown over the summer • Try growing compact forms of vegies
The perfect time to plant seeds can vary according to the variety, cultivar, and location. which won’t need so much space.
There may be subtle differences even within the same region, so always read the seed • Use a good quality potting mix – some
supplier’s instructions. In general, the following can be planted over summer are specifically made for vegetables
and enriched with fertilisers.
December Sowing January Sowing February Sowing • Mix slow release fertiliser to mixes
All Regions Many seeds can be sown As we move into February, which are not enriched.
Beet (silver, Swiss chard) in midsummer. Bear in the seedlings of some • Even with wetting agents, the soil
Beans (except broad bean) mind that a great many plants, e.g. Brussels in pots dries out quickly – so water
Cabbage vegetables can be frown sprouts, can be grown regularly.
Cape gooseberry all year round in tropical outdoors in the coldest • Try using water wise pots with inbuilt
Capsicum regions. regions. reservoir chambers in the base.
Carrot All Regions All Regions • Be careful not to overwater – nutrients
Celery Beans (except broad bean) Beet (silver, Swiss chard)) will quickly leach out of the pots.
Cucumber Beet (silver, Swiss chard) Beetroot • Replenish your plants fortnightly with
Eggplant Beetroot Cabbage liquid feed when established.
Kohl rabi Broccoli Chinese cabbage
Leek Brussels sprouts Carrots Some other suggestions for
Lettuce Cabbage Dwarf beans Heirloom vegetables
Marrow Capsicum Kohl rabi As well as our featured top 10, some
Melon Cauliflower Leeks other heirloom vegetables you may wish
Okra Kohl rabi Lettuce to try include:
Parsnip Lettuce Parsnip • Beans ‘Kentucky Wonder’, ‘Purple King’,
Pumpkin Parsnip Radish ‘Scarlet Runner’ (cooler climates),
Radish Radish Spinach ‘Northeaster’
Rhubarb All Regions (except the • Beet ‘Argentia’
Rosella coldest areas) • Beetroot ‘Chioggia’, ‘Cylindrica’
Salsify Cucumber • Cabbage ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’
Squash Marrow Of the above, rosella • Carrot ‘Early Horn’
Sweet corn Spring onion seeds will not thrive in • Corn ‘Golden Bantam’
Tomato Squash cold temperate areas • Cucumber ‘Improved Long Green’, ‘Suyo
Zucchini Sweet corn and it is best not to Long’
Zucchini attempt to sow leeks • Eggplant ‘Combo’
Tropical Regions in tropical and warm • Silverbeet ‘Rainbow Chard’, ‘Fordhook’
Capsicum subtropical areas • Lettuce ‘Paris White Cos’, ‘Deer’s
Cucumber at this time. In cold Tongue’
Eggplant (aubergine) temperate regions it is • Melon ‘Jenny Lind’
Melon too late to attempt to • Pumpkin ‘Jap’, ‘Galeux Deysines’
Okra grow capsicums, cape • Radish ‘French Breakfast’, ‘Icicle’
Pumpkin gooseberries, eggplant • Squash ‘Hubbard’
Rhubarb and tomatoes from • Tomato ‘Brandywine’, ‘Beefsteak’ (cooler
Tomato ‘Oxheart’. Tomato seed. climates), ‘Black Russian’, ‘Roma’
• Zucchini ‘Costa Romanesque’

12 HOME GROWN
HOME
Organic pest and disease control
Good hygiene practices such
as disposing of rotten fruit and
vegetables rather than leaving them to
lie on the ground, using clean secateurs
for pruning, and thoroughly disinfecting
old containers before potting-up are all
ways that you can limit the spread of
pests and diseases in your vegetable
garden. Crop rotation is also important.
This means avoiding growing crops
from the same vegetable family in
the same soil for two years running Capsicum ‘Marconi Red’
because they are susceptible to the
same disease organisms which build
up in the soil. For example, tomatoes,
eggplant, capsicum and potato all
belong to the Solanaceae family.
Another option is to grow
companion plants. These can act as
alternative host plants to lure insect
pests away from your vegetables.
These include dill, lovage and
nasturtiums. Some with strong scents
and colours may actually repel or
confuse pests and these include mint,
garlic, rosemary and marigolds.
You may also be able to find
‘White Lisbon’ Spring onion
some heirloom varieties which have
better disease resistance, and some
which are able to withstand harsher Where to get them • Green harvest – www.greenharvest.com.au
environmental conditions making them • Eden Seeds – www.edenseeds.com.au Special thanks to Green Harvest
more resilient if attacked by pests. • Heirloom Seeds – (Mail Order Organic Supplies) for
If problems do occur, your options www.heirloomseeds.com.au supplying several of the photos for
for control include: • Beautanicals – www.beautanicals.com.au this article
• Hosing off aphids, blackfly and spider • Green Patch Organics– www.greenharvest.com.au
mites www.greenpatchseeds.com.au
• Using insect traps – sticky traps and • All Rare Herbs – Learn More: Find Online Courses
providing places, e.g. boards or rocks, www.allrareherbs.com.au on vegetable growing at
for slugs and snails to hide under • The Lost Seed – www.thelostseed.com.au www.hortcourses.com
from where they can be collected and
destroyed
• Applying white oil or other eco oils for
soft bodied pests and scale insects
• Using pyrethrum for soft bodied
pests (but only before or after
daytime when bees are active)
• Using insecticidal soaps for aphids
• Encourage predator insects e.g.
ladybirds
• Install netting or tie hessian bags
around large fruits to protect from
insects and birds
• You don’t have to kill all insects, some
losses are acceptable!

HOME GROWN 13
Heritage tomatoes
 HEIRLOOMS
Advertorial
Summer Tomatoes
… what a treat!
By Mark Beaumont of Beautanicals Herbs and Seeds
O
ne of the delights of living in a
country like Australia is that the
spring /summer season is long
enough to grow just about everything you
want in the vegie garden and tomatoes are
usually at the top of most people’s list of
‘what to grow at home’.
Everyone I have ever spoken to
regarding tomatoes is convinced that
home grown are so superior in taste and
texture to anything purchased at the
supermarket and the fact that they are
just so easy to grow just makes them even
more popular.
Many of the new varieties of tomato
grown by farmers have been selected
because they resist some disease or
problem that, in point of fact, usually only
Tress tomatoes
HEIRLOOMS
14 HOME GROWN
20 HOME GROWN
arises because so many plants are grown
so close to each other and it is usually in
confined or condensed conditions that
problems arise, not because the tomato has
an intrinsic weakness but because these
tough South American plants prefer to just
do their own thing and need space to grow
with a little breeze around them. Grown
basically, in dirt, with some breathing space,
they will thrive without a lot of care or worry.
Choosing the right heirloom variety for
your taste and your climate can take some
trial and error but, rest assured, there is a
perfect combination for all of us. Because
we grow all of the seeds that we sell, we
are very well acquainted with all of the
30 varieties of heirloom tomatoes that we
have chosen to grow. Not all of them suit
our taste, but each has a special quality
that we have found too good to ignore.
Many people have told us that no
matter what they plant, they end up with
cherry tomatoes. This often happens
because many of the recent varieties have
not been around long enough to ensure
that the variety is stable and will continue
to reproduce ‘true to form’.
Because tomatoes generally self-
pollinate, and more often than not do so
before the flower opens, it is unlikely at
best that they have mixed it up with the
next door neighbour’s plants. The fault is
usually in the seed and not the grower.
Now, choosing the right tomato for you
is really just a matter of how you want to
eat them, and where you live.
If your passion is sliced tomato on fresh
bread with a little salt, pepper and cheese,
then you have a few to choose from that
grow to a good size for slicing, a good colour
and stay firm enough to keep the bread
intact. These are Australian Red, Grosse
Lisse (Big Red), Oxheart and Beefsteak.
These are all regarded as
‘indeterminate’ which simply means that
they like to wander off, in vine fashion, and
can be a little messy in the garden. Even
though we have been told to attempt to
grow tomatoes in an upright manner, on
tomato stakes, it is not natural for them to
grow this way and you will probably spend
most of your time trying to train them to
do your bidding. It is a frustrating task.
I have found that the best results are
to use a form of trellis that allows for
their wandering nature, but allows you to
tie the branches in place to support them
when they are full of fruit. These ‘sandwich’
tomatoes do well through most of the east
coast but they do need quite a lot of room
in the garden. They do not do well on walls
or in courtyards.
Black Russian
The next type of tomato is the salad
tomato. One that you are able to cut
or dice to add to a salad, purely for the
flavour and texture. Our heirloom Black
Krim, Black Russian, Red and Yellow
Brandywine, Mortgage Lifter and the Red
and Green Tigers are great for these uses.
Kelloggs Breakfast is also excellent in a
salad for colour but is very mild in taste.
These tomatoes are also indeterminate
and will ramble to a lesser extent than
the previously mentioned but, as the
fruit is smaller, they are not so much of
a problem. They grow well throughout
Australia, even in the west, but they do
need regular watering.
Most tomatoes are not really large
users of water but instead prefer to
be watered often. Smaller amounts of
water daily is better for the plants and
the fruit and drying out a little between
helps with all of the fungal and mould
problems that seem to beset many
gardeners. Always remember that the
plants need to have air around them to
get good, nutritious results.
Now, speaking of salads, we can’t forget
the cherry and pear heirloom varieties
that are probably the easiest plants in the
world to grow and use. Even if you have
successfully killed everything that you
have brought home from a nursery, you will
probably succeed to grow these.
Every garden, whether balcony or
backyard, can provide everything necessary
for these eager-to-please vines. They will
climb on almost anything and once they
begin to produce their tresses of beautifully
arranged fruit that ripen from the top down,
they are a visual delight.
Sugar Snack, Cocktail, Red and Yellow
Pear, Golden Cherry and Sweetbite are
our favourite varieties and each of these
Cherry tomatoes
will continue to produce fruit way past
the time when you would think them
exhausted. These tomatoes also have
the widest range of climate and seasonal
adaptation abilities and, if the seed is
heirloom, will produce new plants year
after year that are just as good as your
first season.
We grow these varieties for 10 months
of every year, without fail. Once upon a
time we used to preserve these tomatoes
by using the ‘Vacola’ but there is really no
need to do so as they are available to us
fresh almost all the time.
Next are the cooking tomatoes.
Probably the hardest to grow but also
very rewarding. These are the heirloom,
San Marzano, Amish Paste, Roma, German
Green and Yellow Brandywine. The reason
that they are a little more difficult to grow
successfully is that their fruit has a higher
water content than many of the others and
they need more support and fussing over.
German Green aside, these are
determinate vines, tending to grow in
a tidier fashion than the others. These
can be grown on stakes but need to have
excess foliage trimmed off regularly to
once again allow air to circulate around the
ripening fruit.
The fruit goes from ‘not ready yet’ to
overripe in a very short time, so they are
best planted where you are able to see
them frequently to pounce when the time
is right. They are all wonderful for soups,
pastes and sauces.
Amish Paste and Roma are perfect
for home fermenting. This is a very easy
process and can be achieved in any kitchen,
anywhere. Many commercially available
sauces and pastes are simply fermented and
the most natural, have nothing added. Once
the tomatoes are finished fermenting in
Tigerella
your jars, they will keep for a very long time,
adding tomato sunshine to dreary winter.
Speaking of winter, I cannot forget to
mention Siberian. Siberian tomato does
conjure up the notion of a tough, rugged
tomato standing up to snow and blizzard.
This is not the case unfortunately, but, it
will survive longer into winter than any
other variety and can be sown in winter to
be planted out as early as possible, even
if the frosts have not yet stopped for the
season. It is a tasty, medium sized tomato
that has good sliceability and texture and
cannot be left out of the conversation.
So, hopefully this has helped you
choose your variety, but if you are still
not sure, Beautanicals does have a mixed
Heirloom packet that will provide a lucky
dip range of heirloom seeds to try.
One last thing to say about the
remarkable tomato, is that it is one of the
only fruits that you simply cannot cook the
goodness out of. The amount of processing
that you do to the tomato will only increase
its nutritional value to you.
Beautanicals Herbs and Seeds
www.beautanicals.com.au.
HOME GROWN 21
HOME GROWN 15
Community
Growing Fruit and Veg
Beyond the Home
The City of Sydney is an impressive leader in community gardens, helping and
encouraging local residents to grow and harvest their own produce.

Alexandria Park Community Garden

Corner of Power Avenue & Park Road,
Alexandria
Located in the grounds of Alexandria
Park Community School, this garden has
all communal plots, with raised gardens
of vegetables, herbs, fruit trees as well as
compost production. Meeting times: First
and third Saturday each month at 10am
- 12pm (9am to 11am during Daylight
Saving).

Angel St Permaculture Food Forest

Corner of Angel Street & Harold Street,
Newtown
This one-hectare permaculture garden
includes extensive fruit trees, natives Judy Ellis (left) and
and a small veggie area. Meeting times: Deborah Segal at
Every Sunday 11am - 1pm Charlie’s Garden in Darlington

Arthur Street Community

Verge Garden

Arthur Street, Surry Hills
A street verge garden uses the green
space between your house and the road.
The Arthur Street garden is run by local
residents who have grown veggies and
plants. Although the planter is small, it
provides a great community focus for
participants in the project. Meeting
times: Please contact garden direct
Bourke Street Park Community Garden
Bourke Street, Woolloomooloo
Bourke St Park Community Garden
is the second communal garden to be
made in Woolloomooloo. Meeting times:
Please contact garden direct
T
here are now 22 community gardens
flourishing in this inner city area,
from Woolloomooloo to Glebe to
Alexandria, all of which enable residents the
opportunity to potter around and soak up
their natural environment. Most are ground
level gardens, however several are amazing
rooftop gardens and there’s a couple of
footpath/verge gardens. The gardens help to
reduce household waste (via composting), and
save and protect diverse plants and seeds.
Experienced gardeners are always on-hand to
teach enthusiastic beginners some practical
organic methods, and, most importantly,
these gardens bring people together as a
community.
With a website full of useful advice and
inspirational stories, the City of Sydney
Council offers ongoing support and advice for
new and established community gardens, and
will also help you to find a suitable location,
plus help plan and design your new community
garden. Grants are also available to help
establish new gardens.
You’ll notice from the following list that
each garden is different. If you live in the area
(lucky you!), take note of the meeting times
and make sure you visit, and if you don’t live
in the area, we hope you become enthused
and inspired to join your local community
garden, or even to start planning on creating a
community garden in your suburb.

16 HOME GROWN
Charlie’s Garden
Charles Kernan Reserve, Abercrombie
Street, Darlington
Charlie’s Garden is a small community
garden boasting communal beds of edible
plants which have been created by local
residents. There is composting, including
food wastes from a nearby cafe, and a
sprinkling of fruit trees and shrubs. Meeting
times: Wednesday at 5 .3 0 pm and the first
Saturday of each month at 3 pm.

Eden Community Garden,

The Raglan Street, Waterloo
One of Sydney’s oldest community gardens,
this garden was originally named the Waterloo
Community Garden. It’s used for horticultural
therapy and includes fresh vegies, a pond, Eden Community
chickens and composting facilities. Meeting Garden at Waterloo
times: Please contact garden direct.

Glebe St John Community Garden

Corner of Derwent Lane &
St Johns Road, Glebe
This colourful garden is on land owned by
the Anglican Church. Open to the public and
community managed, there are individual
plots, shared gardening areas and a
composting facility. Meeting times: Second
Saturday of each month 9 .3 0 am - 1 2 pm.
Green Square Growers
Tote Park Library, 1 0 0 Joynton Ave, Zetland
Green Square Growers is an initiative of
people in the Green Square area taking
initiative in establishing vegetable planters
and other edible urban landscaping projects
in the area. Meeting times: Second Sunday of
each month at 1 0 .3 0 am.
Greg Hewish Memorial Garden
Marriott Street, Redfern
A community garden of twelve plots
in raised, brick garden beds producing
vegetables and culinary herbs. This garden
features fruit trees, composting facilities
and rainwater tank. Meeting times: First
Sunday of each month.
The City of Sydney’s 10 commandments
for community gardens
While each garden will have its own set
of bespoke dos and don’ts, here are
our top etiquette tips to be a gracious
gardener.
1. Everyone’s welcome
You don’t need to know a scrap
about gardening to join in, as long
as you’re keen to learn. Seasoned
gardeners are welcome too – they
share their know-how and mentor
the newbies.
Divine rhubarb growing at the
Bourke St Community Garden
at Woolloomooloo
2. Love lockdown
Let’s face it, life can be hectic. Work steps
up a notch, kids take priority, small bars
pop up. Keep it simple by only planting
the crops you love. You’ll be more likely to
make the time to nurture them.
3. Be a neat freak
Nobody likes an unloved, weedy garden,
so if you fall behind, get sick or take a trip,
ask your fellow gardeners to step in and
do your bit. If you find you can’t cope, let
someone know so another eager beaver
can take your spot.

James Street Reserve Community Garden

Corner of James Street & Young Lane,
Redfern
Occupying half of a pocket park, this garden
contains six large raised garden beds, a
communal compost and fruit trees growing
olives, bananas, coffee and citrus fruits.
Meeting times: First or second Saturday of
each month 9 am - 1 1 am

HOME GROWN 17
Community
4. Get stuck in
Pretty obvious huh, but if you’re lucky
enough to be offered a spot at your local
garden, make the most of it! It’s community
gardening 101.
5. Surround sound
There’s usually a hive of activity going on
in your local garden, but cranking classic
rock from your radio won’t win you many
friends. Consult other gardeners on your
ultimate playlist before you hook up the
stadium speakers. After all, this is your
time to channel Mother Nature.
6. Small people and furry friends
Most gardens welcome little ones with
open gardening gloves, but a wild child
just spoils it for everyone. Keep an eye
Bourke St Community
Garden at Woolloomooloo
18 24GROWN
HOME HOME
St Helen’s Community Garden
at Glebe getting ready for
some new planting
on them and reap the rewards of giving
them a place to dig and watch things
grow. It’s a good idea to ask if four-legged
companions are okay too.
7. Go natural
Most community gardens are organic. If
bugs, diseases and nasties abound, ask
your fellow gardeners how to deal with
them the natural way. Who knew snails
hate eggshells?
8. Thou shalt not steal
Don’t take the bounty of others unless
they’ve said it’s okay. Same goes for
borrowing their tools. It’s a good idea
to harvest as you go, leaving nothing to
temptation. If it’s a collective garden, you’ll
agree as a group as to who takes what, when.
Joanna O’Dea Community Garden
Corner of Pyrmont Bridge Road &
Lyons Road, Camperdown
Meeting times: Please contact
garden direct
Mission Australia Rooftop Garden
Pyrmont Bridge Road, Camperdown
Meeting times: Please contact
garden direct
Newtown Community Garden
Corner of Longdown Street &
Stephen Street, Newtown
A lovely geometric community
garden, it includes small plots, shared
gardening areas, a pond, rainwater
tank and composting facilities.
Gardeners meet Wednesday mornings
when there is often a guest speaker
and morning tea. Meeting times: Meet
every Wednesday 10am - 11am.
Salvation Army Waterloo
Community Garden
Corner of Cope Street & Phillip Street,
Redfern
A communal garden and environmental
education space part of Waterloo
Neighbourhood Centre where
community residents learn how to be
self-sufficient and grow their own food
at home. The space has three garden
beds, a worm farm and four bins for
compost. Meeting times: Tuesday
afternoon from 12:00pm.
St Helen’s Community Garden
184 Glebe Point Road, Glebe
Meeting times: Please contact
garden direct.
Poets’ Corner Community Garden
Morehead Street, Redfern
Meeting times: Meets every two
months on a Tuesday 11am - 1pm.
Signature Apartments
Rooftop Garden
Regent Street, Redfern
The Signature Apartments
community garden gives residents
of the building a communal space to
grow their own herbs and vegetables
and the chance to make friends with
their neighbours. Meeting times:
Please contact garden direct.
 Sustainable Chippendale
Footpath Gardens

 Street, Chippendale
 times: Please contact
garden direct.

St Michael’s Garden
Corner of Albion Street & Flinders
Street, Surry 
A small garden started as an arts project
in the grounds of St 
 Church.
 by a small group, the garden
consists of a number of fruit and nut
trees, shrubs and groundcovers. 
times: Please contact garden direct.

Ultimo Community Garden


 Street Reserve, Ultimo
This community garden features raised
beds for growing vegies and herbs as
well as a compost system. 
times: Please contact garden direct.

Waterloo Estate Community Garden –

Marton,Cook and Solander
Raglan Street, Waterloo
The Solander community garden has
raised garden beds and composting.
Gardeners must be tenants of  
9. Learn and grow
Look online, stick your nose in a book or best
NSW. The  
  garden has raised
garden beds and includes vegetables
and composting. Gardeners must be
tenants of    New South Wales.
Signature apartments – The Cook community garden produces
rooftop garden Redfern vegetables and herbs in plots for
individual gardeners and produces
compost as fertiliser.  times:
it with vegetables and flowers, now’s Solander garden meets every Tuesday
your chance. 1 1 am and social meeting at 2 pm.
of all, talk to other gardeners about new Council insists each footpath gardening 
 garden every  
 1 1 am -
ways to garden. You’ll be wowing friends and
family with your growing prowess in no time.
10. Introduce yourself
  importantly, get to know your fellow
gardenites. You’ll have someone to swap
vegies with, help out when you’re stuck,
and a new bunch of fresh-food-loving-
friends in your ‘hood to boot.
Footpath Gardening
In addition to community gardens,
the City of Sydney also encourages
Footpath Gardening, so if you and some
like-minded neighbours wish to take
charge of the patch of the City’s grass
outside your home or office, and plant
project is respectful of the needs of others,
be well-maintained and safe, and must keep
the footpath accessible for everyone, and
has a simple checklist on its website before
you start. Once you’ve submitted your
checklist you’re free to start gardening.
Contact details:
City of Sydney website:
http://www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/
community/participation/community-
gardens/find-a-community-garden
Raewyn Broadfoot
Community Gardens Coordinator
Ph: 02 9265 9786
Email: rbroadfoot@cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au
1 pm, Cook garden every Friday at 2 pm.
Woolloomooloo Permaculture
Community Garden
Corner of Dowling Street & Sydney
Place, Woolloomooloo
With both shared gardening space and
plots, this community garden features
fruit trees, vegies, herbs and composting.
Water harvested from the roof of the
bamboo-construction shelter is stored
in a rainwater tank. Coffee grown in the
community garden was roasted by a
nearby coffee processor, producing what
may be Woolloomooloo’s first coffee
crop.  times: Fourth Sunday of
each month 1 0 am - 1 2 pm.
HOME GROWN 19
 Chicken Eggs
Poultry

Everything you need or want to know

By John Mason, Adriana Fraser and Gabriella Vogt

E
ggs aren’t all the same! Some are
big, some small and the colour can
vary. Commonly we think of eggs
as being either white or light brown, but
blue, green, cream and dark brown are
also common colours; different breeds lay
different coloured eggs and also different
sized eggs. Breed can also dictate how
many eggs a chicken lays but temperature,
light and feed are also factors.
Chickens begin egg production at
around 18-22 weeks of age and will
continue to lay one egg most days;
however the laying life of a chicken
depends on a number of factors such as
the age, breed, and health of the bird, and
also environmental factors such as season
and temperature.

Decline in lay
Every now and again your chickens will take
a break from laying. They may just slowdown
in production, they may take a break for a
period of time, or they may stop all together.
Here are some of the common reasons why a
hen may stop laying:
• Moulting – taking a break from laying
allows the chicken to shed feathers and
grow new ones. At the same time the
hen’s reproductive tract is rejuvenated
and you should see a slight increase in
the number of eggs she lays and the
quality.
© Photo courtesy of www.organigrow.com.au

• Sickness – many poultry diseases will

effect egg production, if your hens
have symptoms of disease it’s best to
consult a vet.
• Seasonal – shorter day length may
cause a decline in egg production. Egg
production will start to pick up again
when the days begin to get longer.

One of
20 HOME the Organigrow hens
GROWN
28 HOME GROWN
© Shutterstock
Tips • Checking an egg’s freshness:
Place egg in a bowl of water – if
it sinks it is fresh, if it floats it is
older; as eggs age, the size of the
air cell increases, causing them
to float.
• You can tell the difference
between a raw egg and a
hardboiled egg when you take
the eggs and spin them on a flat
surface – the hardboiled egg will
spin faster than the raw egg.
• Feed fresh food scraps daily
when you collect your eggs. This
keeps the eggs fresh and your
chickens healthy by by lack of
access to rotten food.
• Provide shell grit to avoid thin
shells, to aid chicken digestion
and avoid your chickens
developing unwanted egg eating
behaviours.
• Improper nutrition – it’s very important
hens get adequate and balanced nutrition
in order to maintain egg production.
• Broodiness –this is when hens incubate
their eggs until they hatch (which is
obviously never if they are not fertilised);
some breeds are more prone to this
behaviour than others.
• Too young – young chickens are usually
inconsistent layers to begin with.
Handy hint: to keep a track of your eggs write the date on
each egg in pencil, this way you know how fresh they are.
• Too old – since chickens are born
with the amount of eggs they will
produce inside them, older hens will
start to slow down in their reproductive
ability and egg production will
eventually stop.
What makes up an egg?
Eggs are actually complex little structures
– jam packed full of nutrients. An egg
consists of a shell, yolk, albumen, inner and
outer membrane and the air cell.
The shell is a semi-permeable hard
protective layer made up of calcium
carbonate. Air and moisture can pass
through the shell’s pores; this is why
you have to be careful what you wash
your eggs with as they can absorb some
chemicals. It is better to wipe them
down with a clean damp cloth rather than
wash them.
The yolk contains most of the vitamin
A, vitamin D, iron, calcium, phosphorus,
riboflavin and thiamine. There is a clear
casing that surrounds the yolk called the
vitelline membrane.
The albumen or ‘egg white’ contains the
majority of the egg’s protein.
Inner and outer membrane – these are
the two membranes found in between the
shell and the egg white. These help protect
the egg from bacteria.
Air cell is the air-filled pocket between
the white and the shell at the large end
HOME GROWN 21
 Shutterstock ©Thieury
Poultry

Each day when you collect the eggs, remove any old uneaten table scraps and put them in
the compost and then give them a fresh lot. This ensures that they do not have access to old,
mouldy or rotting food scraps which can make your chickens sick.
of the egg. It can be seen as the indent in You may have noticed yolk colour can the same shell. There is nothing wrong with
the egg white when you hard boil an egg. also differ from light yellow through to these eggs and they can be consumed just
When an egg is laid it is around 41°C, the deep oranges. The colour of egg yolks like any other fresh hen’s egg.
egg then cools and the liquid condenses, is determined by what a chicken eats.
forming the air cell. It gets larger as the The colour of the yolk comes from Green yolks
egg ages. substances called carotenoids which are You may have noticed that sometimes
natural pigments found in some plants; a green ring around the yolk forms in a
Egg colour and physical appearance it does not affect the nutritional value hardboiled egg. This is harmless, it is simply
As mentioned earlier – egg shells come of the egg. Carotenoids are found more the result of a reaction between the iron and
in variations of brown, white, green in some feeds that chickens eat such sulphur compounds of the egg. You can try
or blue, and can also have different as corn, alfalfa and grass meals. This is
variations of speckles. Shell colour will why free range hens are more likely to
vary with different breeds of chickens; produce richer coloured egg yolks, as
as a general rule white feathered birds they usually graze on a variety of plant Do you need a rooster?
such as the Leghorn will produce white materials. No! Hens will ovulate and can lay
or cream coloured eggs, brown or Double yolkers are when there are eggs most days, without having
reddish coloured birds such as the Rhode two yolks found within the one egg. They been fertilised by a rooster. You
Island Red will produce brown eggs. are formed when ovulation occurs too only need a rooster if you want
However there are breeds such as the rapidly – two ovules are released from the to produce chickens.
Ameraucana which can produce unusual chicken’s oviduct almost simultaneously
bluey green eggs. and then they end up being enclosed within

22 HOME GROWN
to avoid green yolks by not overcooking the
eggs, using the proper temperature and by
rapidly cooling boiled eggs.

Nutritional value: are eggs the ultimate

superfood?
In the food pyramid, you will see that
eggs fall into the protein foods category
because they are a great source of protein.

serve (two 5 0 g eggs) can supply
approximately 2 5 % of an adult’s or 3 0 %
of a child’s recommended daily intake of
protein. Importantly they also contain all the
essential amino acids that humans need.
Fat content is considered reasonable,
with two eggs providing around 1 5 % of
our recommended daily fat consumption.
E ggs provide a range of vitamins and
minerals required for health body function.
Two eggs provide us with:
• Almost half of our daily folate
requirement
• 32% of our daily vitamin A requirement
Silkie Bantams lay
• 14% of our daily iron requirements
smaller sized eggs
• 59% of our daily selenium requirement;
selenium is an important dietary mineral
which helps in thyroid function and
antioxidant protection. Egg Colour Chicken Breed
• As well as quantities of vitamin D, White Leghorn
vitamin B1 2 , potassium and magnesium. Brown Rhode Island Red, Orpingtons
• PLUS eggs are yummy and extremely
Green or Blue Ameraucana
versatile for cooking. You can have them
fried, scrambled, boiled or poached and
they can be used in a variety of sweet
and savoury dishes, and you can use them
raw in smoothies, power shakes and milk
shakes.

Collecting and storing your eggs

It’s important to collect your eggs every
day; this helps to prevent broody hens.
It also means they will be collected and
stored properly – which means fresher
eggs when you go to eat them as they will
not have been left in the elements for days
on end. Collecting your eggs every day also
means you can check on and monitor your
chickens’ health daily.
There is no need to wash them after
you have collected them; eggs have a
protective coating which keeps bacteria
out, and washing the eggs destroys the
protective coating. If they are muddy or
dirty you can gently wipe dirty eggs with
a wrung out, damp, clean cloth or damp
paper towel.

Black Australorps with

her creamy light brown
HOME GROWN
coloured 23
egg.

Poultry
Fresh home grown hen eggs
You can either store your eggs in a bowl or egg carton in the
fridge, or depending on the temperature, you could also store
them in a bowl or carton in a cool shady spot in the kitchen. It is
recommended they be stored under 20°C. Refrigerated eggs tend
to last longer. They should be stored with the large end up, as this
helps for the yolk to remain centred.
Chicken nutrition and egg quality
Balanced diet – providing your chickens with a complete and
balanced diet will help ensure the quality of your home grown
eggs. So what should you feed your feathered friends to
ensure they give you yummy eggs? A quality chicken pellet
should provide chickens with everything they need to remain
healthy. They should be allowed to graze on pasture daily, this
supplements their diet with fresh fibrous grasses and protein
rich bugs and worms.
Chicken treats – your chickens will also enjoy pecking at a variety
of fresh kitchen scraps such as fruit, vegetables, bread, cereal,
pasta, rice or noodles (preferably wholegrain rather than white).
However scraps should not form a major proportion of their
diet as scraps, when given in excess, can adversely affect egg
production. A good rule of thumb is to give them no more than
they can consume within about 15 minutes. And avoid feeding
citrus, potato peels, onions, avocado and egg shells as these
promote egg pecking!
Weak shells – shells can sometimes become weak and break
easily and this can become a problem if chickens start to peck
at and break the weak egg shells – they can become egg eaters.
This is a hard habit to break. It is best to avoid this behaviour
from developing by making sure you provide your chickens with
a consistent supply of good quality shell grit. Shell grit provides
chickens with calcium which gives them strong bones and strong
egg shells. It also aids their digestion as the grit helps grind
up food in the chicken’s gizzard (since they don’t have teeth to
manually break down their food). HG
24 HOME GROWN
Why Choose
Organic Eggs?
If your hens are off the lay or you don’t have the time or space to
keep them and you go into a shop and look at the prices of eggs
you will see a huge variation. So why would you choose to pay
around $10.00 for organic free range eggs when you could pay a
fraction of this for caged conventional eggs?
The answer is simple. They are worth it. Not only are you
respecting the hen which produces your egg by paying the
farmer to keep it in a humane way which honours our feathered
friends, but you are also paying for her to be fed chemical and
GMO free feed and kept in a chemical free environment. You
also get the added benefit of all the goodness which the hen will
select out in the pasture and range area to give to her eggs.
Conventional ‘free range’ eggs are kept in large sheds where
twenty thousand birds or more have to compete for enough
space to stand up. If they are allowed outside on a regular basis
they would strip any edible vegetation with the range area
from the shed. Even some of the larger organic producers are
guilty of this. If you want to have a real free range egg then
choose organic but also look for an endorsement from Humane
Choice. Avoid the large supermarket brands and buy from
farmers’ markets or smaller retailers. Supermarkets force their
suppliers to cut costs. One way the producer does this is by
overstocking.
Eggs are particularly susceptible to chemical contamination,
so if there are nasty chemicals in the feed or on the farm then
they will be picked up and concentrated in the egg. Organic eggs
are naturally free from chemicals.
But the main reason you should choose organic eggs is the
taste. You can feel the goodness revitalising your body as you
enjoy them.
For stockists of Organigrow organic eggs please visit
www.organigrow.com.au
© Photo courtesy of www.organigrow.com.au
Happy hens lay the best eggs!
 lay “Hap
the py h
bes ens
te
ggs
”

At Organigrow we value our hens welfare so we give them the

best habitat to roam in. Not just lush pasture but plenty of shady
trees and bushes with deep mulch to scratch through. Thus our
feathered friends can give their eggs the best nutrition and of
course no chemicals as all their feed is 100% certified organic.

Certified
by ACO and
Humane choice
as organic
and truly free
range.

See our website for more info and stockists.

www.organigrow.com.au

HOME GROWN 25
Environment

Summer
Beating the Heat
For most of us, there’s a definite correlation between rising summer
temperatures and rising electricity bills. But it doesn’t have to be this way.
Here’s a list of sensible ideas and guidelines from the Commonwealth of
Australia’s Department of Industry to help you keep cool within your budget.

© Vasilyev Alexandr @ Shutterstock

Making the most of a cool

breeze at night

26 HOME GROWN
© Panya Anakotmankong @ Shutterstock
Get your home ‘summer’ ready
There are a number of ways to reduce the
summer heat in your home before turning
on mechanical cooling:
• Direct sunlight on windows can
produce as much heat as a radiator,
so shade exterior windows (especially
north and west facing ones) with
blinds and windows inside, and
awnings or pergolas outside.
Deciduous trees, bushes or vines
outside windows and walls will also
provide heat protection in summer.
• Close windows and curtains during the
hottest part of the day to keep out
heat and save on cooling costs. When
it cools down outside, lower the inside
temperature by opening your home up
to the evening breeze. Create airflow by
opening windows or doors on opposite
sides of the room.
• If you don’t have insulation, you could
be wasting up to half the energy you
use to cool your home by allowing cool
air to leak out and hot air to enter.
Don’t forget to draught-proof your
home by sealing gaps around windows
and doors—this helps keep cool air in
and hot air out. Weather strips and the
traditional sand-filled ‘sausage dogs’
are cheap and easy options.
• Electrical appliances and lighting can
pump out heat too, so turn off lights,
computers and televisions when not in
use and try to use the dishwasher or
washing machine in the cooler parts
Stylish ceiling fan
of the day. Avoid using the oven in the
middle of the day. Even your choice of
light globes can make a difference to
the heat in a room. Compact fluorescent
lamps (CFLs) emit less heat than older-
style light globes, are far more energy
efficient and can last four to 10 times
longer.
Cooling choices
Once you’ve taken advantage of any
relevant passive cooling options, the next
step is to choose appropriate cooling for
your situation. You’ll need to take into
account your local climate to decide how
often you’ll need cooling throughout the
year. Other factors include the size of the
area to be cooled, and whether you’ll need
to cool the air itself or if creating a cool
breeze will be enough.
Considering energy efficiency
alongside comfort will help you to keep
running costs down while achieving
the temperature you require. Do your
research so you get the best option for
your circumstances, such as choosing
inverter driven fan motors rather than
standard models for evaporative coolers
and air conditioners, as they use much
less power.
To handle a hot summer, three main
options are:
1. Fans
2. Evaporative coolers
3. Air conditioners
© Kornthong Jamsrikaew @ Shutterstock
Fans
Fans are the cheapest cooling option with
the lowest greenhouse effect. Fans can
be fixed on ceilings and walls, or can be
portable table and floor models. To get
the most from this option ensure you:
• Choose the most efficient fan motor
available to save on energy use.
You can do this by comparing the
power consumption and air flow rate
of different units. An efficient fan
producing 140 cubic metres of airflow
a minute typically has a power of
75 watts.
• Use your fan as your first cooling
option, switching to an air conditioner
when it becomes too warm and
uncomfortable. You can also use
your fan to make cooling from your
air conditioner more effective.
After cooling the room with your
air conditioner you can switch it off
and turn on the fan to circulate the
conditioned air, reducing the amount of
energy you need to cool your home.
• Sitting a bowl of water in front of a fan
helps to distribute moisture and has a
cooling effect.
• Remember, fans cool people, not rooms,
so turn them off when you leave the
room.
Evaporative coolers
Evaporative coolers work by blowing air
over a film of water on a filter or sponge,
cooling the sponge and the air. They can
HOME GROWN 27
HOME

Environment
Blinds help keep out
the hot summer sun
be a very effective choice in many areas
of southern and inland Australia, but are
less effective on humid days and in humid
climates. Moderately cheap to buy and run,
evaporative coolers use around half of the
energy consumed by an air conditioner of
similar capacity—and far less for some
models. Portable and ducted models are
available. Keep in mind:
• Newer whole-house ducted systems can
be fitted with electronic thermostats and
timers. The option to run some units off
a solar electricity panel makes them an
attractive energy-saving option.
• Ducted evaporative coolers are also
available with inverter driven fan motors,
and these use much less power than
those without, especially on the lower fan
speeds.
• You’ll need to consider the water use
from an evaporative cooling system—
this can range from 4 litres/hour for
portable systems to 25 litres/hour for
central systems. Check that your system
will comply with any water restrictions in
place in your area.
• When in use you’ll need to leave some
doors and windows open to allow the hot
air to escape from the house.
• To get the best out of your system, carry
out regular maintenance to keep the
filter clean.
Air conditioning
If you have an air conditioner, use it only
when you have to and don’t over-cool. Set
the temperature between 25 and 27°C.
Setting the thermostat to even one
degree higher can save between 5 and 10
28 HOME GROWN
HOME
© Africa Studio @ Shutterstock
per cent on your energy use. Consider
buying a programmable thermostat for
your air conditioner so that you can set it
to suit your schedule and needs. If your
air conditioner has a component such as
a compressor that sits outside, try to
provide it with some shading—if it’s sitting
in full sun it has to work harder than it
needs to. You might be able to use shading
plants or an awning over a window.
The size and type of air conditioner
best suited to a room or your home will
vary greatly based on a number of factors
including local climate, room and house
size, ceiling height, insulation levels, area
of windows and their orientation.
The Australian Institute of
Refrigeration, Air Conditioning and
Heating has an online calculator to help
you work out the capacity of the air
conditioner you need. This can be a good
way of getting an initial estimation of
the size of the unit required, however,
it’s still best to consult with an industry
expert or experienced installer for a final
decision on the right size and type of air
conditioner.
Points to remember
• To save money on running costs, choose
the most efficient model you can
afford, i.e. the one with the most stars.
Models with inverters are generally
the most efficient with energy savings
of up to 30 per cent as compared to
standard units.
• If your air conditioner is not installed
correctly or maintained properly it won’t
operate efficiently, costing you more
© Naypong @ Shutterstock
Being correctly installed and
maintenance such as cleaning
filters regularly help reduce
energy as your air conditioner
doesn’t have to work as hard.
in energy bills and creating a negative
impact on the environment.
• Turn off when leaving the room for a
period of time, or use the timer to make
sure that you are only cooling your room
when and as much as you require. See the
free consumer guides on the Australian
Refrigeration Council website for
information on how to choose, install and
maintain your air conditioner.
Portable air conditioners
Portable air conditioners (sometimes
called spot coolers) are not as efficient
as other cooling options but are popular
due to their lower purchase price and
ease to install. They can also be an option
for people in rental accommodation.
Running costs can quickly add up over a
hot summer resulting in higher energy
bills. They are noisier and can also require
higher maintenance than a fixed air
conditioner. Portable air conditioners are
not fully portable as they usually come
with tube that feeds out through a window
to remove the warm air. To save energy
and greenhouse gases, look for a unit that
comes with fan-only or evaporative cooler
options. HG
Helpful websites:
The Australian Institute of Refrigeration,
Air Conditioning and Heating’s online
calculator: www.fairair.com.au
Australian Refrigeration Council website
for information on how to choose, install
and maintain your air conditioner:
www.lookforthetick.com.au/download-
free-air-conditioning-guide/
HOME GROWN 29
Advertorial
Summer Survival
For Your Garden
Australian summers are famous for their high temperatures, long days and lower
rainfall. Healthy plants are more able to cope with the stress of summer, so ensure your
garden is ready to withstand the conditions with some smart choices and good preparation.
Take stock in the garden
In those first hot weeks of summer,
everyone can get distracted enjoying the
warm weather but it’s during this time that
your garden can start looking a little worse
for wear. Now is the perfect time to a do a
garden inventory and decide what plants
can be saved, what needs to go and pick
any new additions you’d like to add. You’ll
be amazed at what a quick tidy up can do
to your garden.
Tackle weeds early so they don´t
compete with your lawn and plants for
precious water and nutrients, and feed the
whole garden with Earthcore Complete
Garden Food to promote healthy growth
and loads of flowers and fruit.
If you do decide to pick some new
plants, make sure you go for a long-lasting,
heat-hardy plant varieties and don’t forget
that in the first few weeks they will need
supplementary water at the base of the
plant to get into the existing root system.
Apply Earthcore Soil Soaker to pots and
garden beds to make sure any water you
apply can soak deep into the root zone of
your plants.
Fertilise and mulch the garden
bends and containers to keep moisture
in and weeds to a minimum. Try an
organic soil improver such as Earthcore
Sugarcane Mulch.
If you’re planning on going away, group
outdoor pot plants together in the shade
and sit them in saucers of water, while
indoor potted plants should be placed in a
shallow bath of water.
Fine-looking flowers and foliage
Decorative pots with brightly coloured
annuals like petunias, impatiens, marigolds
30 HOME GROWN
and snap dragons are a great way to add
a pop of colour to specific areas of the
garden, however not all summer colour
needs to come from flowers. Foliage
can also introduce beautiful tones and
colourations to your garden from reds,
oranges and yellows through to purples,
greens and metallic silver and gold tones.
Plants native to tropical climate such as
Coleus, come in many colours and can also
take a decent amount of heat as long as
they are planted in good soil that is kept
moist. Condition the soil by adding organic
matter, such as Earthcore Groganic Soil
Improver and a well-rotted manure to
improve soil structure and help retain
moisture and nutrients.
Love the locals
One of the best ways to identify plants
that will thrive in your garden is to take
a look at what grows well locally. For
inspiration why not take a stroll around the
neighbourhood and see what’s thriving in
people’s gardens and the local parks, and
then head to your local Plants Plus garden
centre to ask for advice. The experts at
Plants Plus can also help identify suitable
plants from similar environments that
will love the Australian summer in your
backyard.
Water well
Plants Plus recommends
the following four tips
to conserve water while
reducing moisture loss in
the garden during summer:
1. To avoid excess
evaporation, water at the
start and end of the day,
either before sunrise or after the sun has
gone down.
2. Water thoroughly once or twice a week,
rather than a light daily watering. This will
encourage the roots to grow down deeper
into the soil, improving their drought
tolerance.
3. Water the base of your plants not the
foliage – the roots are where the plant
needs water most.
4. Consider installing a drip irrigation
system that delivers water directly to the
plants root system.
Lovely lawns
Some lawns have a high demand for water,
but with the right care, you can still have
a beautiful, water-wise lawn. To keep your
lawn healthy, fertilise it regularly during
the growing season and concentrate on
keeping it watered during summer. Start
by aerating your lawn to ensure that water
can get right down to the roots and then
when you do water, do it at the end of the
day, watering it deeply and less often.
Using the higher cutting settings on your
mower will also help, while raking up the
clippings immediately will ensure the
water reaches the roots.
HOME GROWN 31
 Summer Scents
Profile

The heady days of spring are full of scent and colour, and you can extend that
soaring feeling well into summer if you choose your plants carefully.

By John Mason, Adriana Fraser and Gavin Cole

Top 10 scented plants for summer

The following top 10 scented plants have
been chosen for their wonderfully fragrant
summer flowers and foliage. They each
will grow well in pots, on a patio or near
the door, if the area receives sunlight
every day – or, of course, out in the garden.
Most can be brought inside for periods of
time. They tend to flower well, and do not
cause allergic reactions to the majority
of people. These plants are also relatively
trouble-free plants with few pest and
disease problems. Try planting scented
1
• Curry plant (Helichrysum italicum) - this
is a must for the summer scented garden.
Hot temperatures release the fragrant
curry scent, as does the slightest breeze
or touch. This plant thrives in summer
plants along pathways so that you brush heat (but not too much humidity) and is
them as you walk past to release their quite pest and disease resistant. ‘Korma’
scent: and ‘Nana’ are popular cultivars. ‘Nana’ is

Lavender
32 HOME GROWN
 How to bring out plant fragrances
Heat - when temperature is raised
(e.g. by placing a potted plant in direct
sunlight) molecules which carry odours
become more volatile and release
more of their fragrance.
Humidity - when humidity increases
there is less transpiration and
evaporation from plant leaves, so
some odours tend to linger for longer.

Popular Scented Pelargoniums Carpet roses

• Rose pelargonium (Pelargonium
graveolens) - spreading shrub to 1 m
tall with deeply lobed dark green
leaves. Clusters of small pink flowers
occur mainly in warm weather. When
crushed the leaves give off a spicy
rose-like scent.
a great, neat edging plant that remains
tidier, less woody and grows a lot smaller
than the main species plant. It’s a tough
plant that also does well in pots. Bring
it indoors for short periods only. Prune
3
• Lavender – a garden favourite which
also does well in pots. Once again,
only bring them indoors for short
periods otherwise you may compromise
flowering. There are many cultivars
• Peppermint pelargonium
(Pelargonium tomentosum) - a low-
growing, vigorous plant spreading to
around 2 m diameter with light grey
to medium green leaves. Clusters of
small white flowers occur in summer.
2 straight after flowering to keep it bushy.
• Gardenias – these have low light
requirements whether indoors or out
- plant them in indirect light in an acid
soil mix. They have a reputation for
being the prima donnas of the garden
available but for pots the smaller
varieties are the best e.g. Lavandula
‘Hidcote’ or L. ‘Munstead’. They are quite
disease-resistant but can suffer from
fungal diseases in humid conditions –
so, make sure that they get plenty of
The leaves have a very strong but if you keep them well-fed in moist, air movement around them and pop
peppermint scent. well-drained soil or potting mix they them outside at night. Prune after
• Lime scented pelargonium will grow vigorously. Grow them where flowering by removing one third of the
(Pelargonium nervosum) - a more
upright growing plant with smaller,
crinkled light green leaves. Flowers
are small but a beautiful lavender
colour. Leaves have a rich and pure
lime scent when crushed. This plant is
they’ll receive morning sunlight only,
and keep a close eye out for pests such
as aphids, caterpillars, brown and white
scale and hibiscus beetles. Act early upon
detection – and they will reward you. This
plant loves regular fertiliser (every two
4 growth.
• Lemon verbena – a lovely woody shrub
that will grow well in pots. Orange or
lemon-scented foliage varieties are
available, and the leaves can be used to
make a delicious tea. These plants can be
excellent to use for topiary work (e.g. months) and thrives on liquid fertiliser brought indoors for very short periods.
trained as a standard). applications. Prune in autumn by up to Keep this plant well-trimmed to promote
• Variegated lemon scented one third. a bushy shrub.
pelargonium (P. citriodorum var.
variegatum) - a small bush to 7 0 cm
tall with deeply lobed and crinkled
leaves. Pink flowers make an attractive
contrast against the yellow variegated
leaves. Foliage has a distinct lemon
scent. This plant is well suited to use in
topiary or as a low hedge.
• Coconut scented pelargonium
(Pelargonium grossularioides) - a
trailing plant which adapts well as a
groundcover or in a hanging basket.
The dark green, coconut scented
leaves are borne on attractive
reddish stems. Flowers are small
and bright pink. This plant self-seeds
easily and can become a weed if not
controlled.

HOME GROWN 33
HOME GROWN 41
 Carnation (Dianthus spp.)
for indoor scent Purple Lavandula ‘Madrid’
Potted Plants
Lots of scented plants that grow well if
planted in pots can be grown indoors; so why
not liven up both the garden and your home
with the flowers and scents of summer?
Mix it up if you like; rotating pots of
scented plants inside and out, creating
a continually changing affect around the
home. Just remember though; indoors is
not a natural environment for plants - they
tend to flower for shorter periods indoors,
and are not as healthy in the long term.
The inside environment is different in a
number of ways:
• Light conditions may be lower - for some
plants this can result in fewer flowers.
• Carbon dioxide levels can be higher (from
people breathing) - particularly if the
house is not well-ventilated.
• Direct sunlight through a window can act
like a magnifying glass and burn tender
plant tissues.
• Roots can dry out faster - because the
root mass is in a confined space.
• No rain means lower fertility because
rainfall contains nitrogen-bearing
34 HOME GROWN
Marigold (Tagetes patula cultivar.)
molecules – mains water isn’t as
nitrogen rich.
• Fumes and cold air from air-conditioning
units and heating can also affect the
health of plants.
• Dust can clog the pores of leaves.
• High humidity inside a house can cause
fungal diseases to spread quickly.
Another important thing to consider
is that scented plants may be more
noticeable in confined spaces. Whilst
there are some scented plants which are
loved by most people, others can cause
some people to have allergic reactions -
particularly when the air becomes laden
with the plant’s fragrance and pollen. It
may be that your whole family loves the
smell of jasmine, but the same scent may
cause your neighbours’ eyes to water,
or perhaps trigger a sneezing fit or
asthma attack! Choosing a plant species
carefully can help you overcome this
problem. The scent of lavender or mint,
for example, is more innocuous and may
be a wonderful experience for all. So, the
White rose (Rosa spp.)
best approach is to choose species that
are suitable for most people and which
cause the least problems. This applies
both indoors and out.
The importance of sunlight
The main thing you need to remember
with most flowering plants is that to get
a lot of flowers you need sunlight for at
least six hours per day. Direct sunlight
also causes plants to release scents,
and this is especially so for plants with
aromatic foliage such as lavender, and
curry plants. Other plants such as roses
also need reasonably long periods of
sunlight to flower well. Some, however,
will flowers with less light – flower
carpet roses are a good example. These
will still flower with just four or five
hours of sunlight a day, so if you want
to bring a potted one indoors you can,
provided you place it in a well-lit area.
Most of the flower carpet range is also
very disease-resistant, but choose
carefully because not all are fragrant.
Tip Beware – the following plants
can be overwhelming and trigger
allergic reactions in some
people: Star Jasmine, Gardenia,
Lonicera, Jasmine, Murraya,
Boronia, Hyacinth and Hoya (can
be overwhelming if plants are too
big, but smaller potted plants can
be fine).
5
• Marigolds - these include both the
French types (Tagetes) and Pot Marigold
(Calendula). Marigolds do need sun to
position, or directly in an open garden
6
flower well, so are best planted in pots or
window boxes that are placed in a sunny
• Miniature or carpet roses - although not
position. They are easy-care annuals
that will need replacing each season,
although they do tend to self-seed
readily in the garden. They have stunning
yellow through to bright orange flowers.
Native plants for scent in the garden
Like exotics, native plants are capable of
producing a range of different fragrances.
Some, such as Lemon Scented Myrtle
(Backhousia citriodora) have a very
refreshing citrus smell, whereas others
like 
Socks (Grevillea leucopteris)
would unsettle even the most hardened
of nasal passages. For different types of
scent try the following:
 course, there are many other
examples within each native species. It’s
a question of working out which odours
most appeal to you and then trying to find
plants which emit those smells.
Deadhead them regularly to promote
more blooms. This plant is relatively pest
and disease resistant.
the obvious choice for an indoor plant,
if given a sunny position near a window
are scented, but all are tough and some
Flower Carpet varieties will grow well
with less light. They are also a good
choice for pots on the balcony or patio.
Trim them often to promote new flowers
and bushy growth, but don’t prune them
they can be brought inside for short back hard.
periods. It is best to choose from the
varieties which are resistant to black
spot disease, such as the Flower Carpet
or Brindabella ranges. Not all varieties
7
• Scented carnations (Dianthus species)
– also called ‘pinks’, these plants are the
stalwart of the cottage garden. They
are small, hardy ground-hugging plants
Scent Name of native plant
Honey Hakea suaveolens (Sweet Scented Hakea)
Melaleuca argentea (Silver Paperbark)
Citrus Eucalyptus staigeriana (Lemon Scented Ironbark)
Backhousia citriodora (Lemon Scented Myrtle)
Fruity Hymenosporum flavum (Native Frangipani)
Cynoglossum suaveolens (Sweet Hound’s Tongue)
Mint Eucalyptus radiata (Narrow Leaved Peppermint)
Mentha australis (River Mint)
Aromatic Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree)
Lomandra effusa (Scented Mat Rush)
Musky Melaleuca nodosa (Prickly Leaved Paperbark)
Caladenia angustata (Pink Fingers Orchid)
HOME GROWN 35
43
 Hints to prolong flowering and keep
your plants healthy:
• Provide the right light conditions for
the plant - both inside and outdoors.
• Dead head regularly by snipping off
spent flowers – this encourages the
plant to produce more flowers.
• Fertilise regularly but take care
to not overdo nitrogen as this will
produce lots of leaves at the expense
of flowers. Seasol is a great tonic for
potted plants and is very difficult to Scented Geranium (Pelargonium quercifolim ) Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)
overdo. When mixed with fish emulsion
it makes a perfect all-round fertiliser.
• Water your plants regularly but if they
are potted don’t saturate the mix – keep
it slightly moist but not wet.
• For indoor plants, or potted plants for
the balcony or veranda, always use the
best quality potting mix.
that have extremely fragrant flowers
with a clove-like scent (hence their
other common name - ‘clove-scented 9
carnations’). These little gems do well in
pots or as edging plants in the garden.
They are very disease-resistant and
• Sweet rocket (Hesperis matronalis) – a
great plant to have near the back door
so you can see the white or mauve
coloured flowers, and the fragrant
scent can waft inside on a warm
summer’s evening. They are a short-
• Consider pre-potted plants such as have no particular pests to speak of. lived perennial that is easy to care for
the ‘potted colour’ range – they last They must be grown in a sunny position, and will self-sow in the garden.
longer than a bunch of flowers.
• Check for pests or diseases and
act early!

8
• Scented pelargoniums – there are
Mosquito busters
If you live in an area which is plagued
by summer mosquitoes, try growing the
citrus-scented Pelargonium citrosa.
You can bring this plant indoors for
short periods of say, two weeks in, and
two weeks out. Rotating in this way will
prevent it from becoming leggy and the
air-conditioning yellowing the foliage.
Alternatively, place them just outside
the door. Nip out the new growth
regularly on this plant or it can become
unruly
Rue, marigolds, pennyroyal and basil
are also said to deter mosquitoes:
Basil will need plenty of light,
warmth and air to perform well inside.
Dianthus ‘Sugar Plum’
Marigolds may not flower as well
in lower light conditions, so move
them in and out to give more light and
encourage flowering.
Pennyroyal will cope with the
indoor environment for a few months if
watered and fed regularly.
Rue does need some light and moist
(not wet) potting soil.
Crush a leaf occasionally on any of
the above plants to release the scent
and oils to help deter mosquitoes.
so if you want to bring them indoors, do
so for very short periods of time only.
Deadhead to promote more flowers.
many different scented foliage species
10
including: apple, coconut, rose, cinnamon,
nutmeg, peppermint and many more! A
breeze or the slightest touch releases
their scent. Don’t overwater these plants
as it encourages fungal diseases – they
need air movement around the plants
too so pop them outside at night for a
breather if you want to try them indoors.
They can also be prone to white-flies
and aphids – hose these off as soon as
you detect them. Other than that they
are fairly carefree, but for the larger
varieties such as the rose-scented types
make sure you pinch out the new growth
often as they can become unruly.
• Thyme – a great plant for the summer herb
garden which is easy to grow in pots and is
reasonably pest and disease free. There are
many species available from low ground-
hugging mat types through to woody,
perennial sub-shrubs. The fragrances range
from lemon through to caraway and even a
gorgeous lavender-scented variety. If you
want to bring thyme indoors make sure you
only do so for very short
periods. Place in a well-lit
spot or on a sunny window
sill. HG
Further reading Scented
Plants –a book by John
Mason and staff of ACS
Distance Education
Available as an eBook at
www.acsbookshop.com
Curry Plant (Helichrysum italicum)

36 HOME GROWN
HOME GROWN 37
Environment
Eco-friendly
Waterside Vacation Fun
Australia is spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing that next
water-based holiday destination. But, what’s more, it is possible, convenient,
and affordable to make eco-friendly water-based holiday choices.

F
or one of the hottest and driest
continents in the world, Australia
boasts some of the most
spectacular water wonders: 36,000kms
of coastline; 8,222 islands; several
thousand kilometres of rivers, creeks
and waterways – the Murray Darling
River system, which flows through four
states, is the third longest navigable
river in the world stretching across
3672kms; the largest underground water
basin in the world, the Great Artesian
Basin, feeds several inland springs and
lakes; and, not forgetting one of the
seven natural wonders of the world,
the Great Barrier Reef, which is more
than 2,600kms and the biggest living
organism on earth.
People to see
Tourism is big business in Australia
and Australians love to travel to these
places. According to Tourism Research
Australia, Australians spent more
than $70 billion dollars holidaying, in
Australia, in the 12 months from March
2013 to March 2014, and slept 287
million nights away from home.
And those figures are expected to grow.
“Tourism will always grow and we should
be aiming to minimise our impact on the
places we visit,” says Emily Ellis from
Ecotourism Australia.
Ecotourism Australia was one of the
first certification organisations in the
world to assess the quality of tourist
providers’ efforts to offer facilities and
activities that supported the conservation
of Australia’s natural and cultural heritage.
“An Ecotourism Australia badge is a
badge of quality,” Emily says. “Consumers
who choose a destination with that badge
know they are purchasing a quality product.
But, most importantly, the badge recognises
that these providers have initiatives in place

Photo courtesy of Tourism Australia ©

38 HOME GROWN
 Photo courtesy of Petrina Coomer
Photo courtesy of Petrina Coomer
Maddie does
some fishing off
the back of the
catamaran early
in the morning.

Sail away from it all

Recently, Ron and Petrina Coomer and
their four children, from Mackay in North
Queensland, took a holiday that whisked
them as far away from their busy lives as
was possible, and yet they only had to travel
two hours north to Shute Harbour. There
they hired a wind-powered catamaran from
one of the many charter boat companies,
and set sail for six nights for one of the Sunsets over the ocean are a special
most peaceful weeks of their family life. delight for most Australians.
Instead of updating their status
on social media, they tuned into the
mainland’s radio support of a morning to to minimise the impact on the natural and connect us with nature in the closest
charter their day’s course and receive the cultural heritage of the area.” possible way is the best antidote to cure
daily weather and sailing report. Instead So, when it comes to browsing that long us of our tech-stressed existence.
of logging on to explore the cyber world list of appealing water-based destinations, Every state and territory boasts about
by search engine, they dived deep with consider accommodation facilities, tours and invites visitors to enjoy their unique
snorkels to explore underworld by flipper and activities that have been certified by places of interest. The following list is not
and duck dives. And instead of setting an Ecotourism Australia. The organisation has exhaustive: we would need as many pages
alarm clock, they rose with the sun and a directory of providers – accommodation, as there are megalitres of water to tell you
went to sleep under a blanket of bright tours and tour guides – that have met their all about them.
stars, drugged drowsy by a long sunset standards and mission to minimise impact
and the gentle lapping of calm waters. and conserve the natural and cultural Northern Territory
“We had a lovely and quiet six days heritage significance of the destination. • Litchfield National Park offers the
aboard our eight-birth catamaran,” Petrina The facilities range in cost and style, and Buley Rockhole and the Florence, Tolmi
said. “And we often had to work together to many of these providers are water-based and Wangi Falls to swim in and camp
chart our course and work the sails.” and offer water-based activities. alongside.
“We barely used the fuel on board and • The MacDonnell Ranges also boast
managed to sail where we wanted to go by Places to go and things to do unique and spectacular water
the power of the wind,” Ron said. “It was a Perhaps the easiest way to reduce destinations, such as Ormiston Gorge and
pretty affordable and easy holiday for a our carbon footprint when it comes to Pound, and Glen Helen Gorge to do some
family of six.” holidaying is to take fewer and smaller good old-fashioned bush walking.
“We had plenty of things to do,” Amelia, steps to our destination. Wherever you • Kakadu National Park, Katherine
the oldest, said. “We played cards, live in Australia, you are never far from a Gorge and Arnhem Land offer many
strummed our guitars, and just sat back getaway that will refresh and energise you opportunities to see and experience
and stared at the sky and the endless with the natural power of water. Indigenous Aboriginal Heritage and its
water.” More than ever, Australians are looking ancient connection with water-based
“The boys loved the snorkelling and to disconnect from their busy digital- wonders: gorges, waterfalls, creeks and
fishing and were so tired at night they driven lives and reconnect with each other billabongs.
devoured their meals and went straight in natural settings, and these destinations
to bed. It was the earliest we had gone to need to be easy and quick to get to – the Queensland
bed of a night and then rose of a morning, more time spent reconnecting with nature, • Airlie Beach and the Whitsunday Islands
in years,” Petrina added. the better. And choosing activities that are often packed with tourists from all

HOME GROWN 39

Environment
over the globe, but you can get away
from them all by taking a sail boat (no
licence or experience needed) around its
protected waters.
• Sometimes the beach along Fraser
Island seems like a highway, but then it
offers many campgrounds, from the very
remote to those that suit the glampers,
as well as, eco-certified resorts.
• Cairns, Port Douglas, Mission Beach and
the Daintree, where it is possible to see
the rainforest meet the reef, are the most
convenient and closest ports to reach
the Great Barrier Reef. Enjoy crocodile
spotting-cruises and coral-diving (and
snorkelling) adventures all in one day.
40 HOME GROWN
Photo courtesy of Tourism Australia ©
Want to do more?
Conservation Volunteers was founded in
Ballarat in 1982 by farmer Tim Cox and a
small group of conservationists planting
trees on the weekend. Now it is a vibrant
organisation with an active vision to involve
everyone in protecting and managing a
healthy and sustainable environment.
Conservation Volunteers undertakes
many projects that are powered
by volunteers, and one of the many
opportunities on offer is packaged and
Snorkelling on the Great affordable holidays to participate in the
Barrier Reef, Queensland. conservation of some of Australia’s most
Photographer: Adrian Brown fragile natural environments.
Volunteers can take a walk along the
Great Ocean Road in Victoria for three days,
• Cape York is for serious campers, boating stay in an eco-accredited hostel, and take
enthusiasts, and wildlife spotters part in conservation activities.
(especially of the croc kind) but the drive Volunteers can take a three-day trip
north to the tip is dotted with many to Montague Island in NSW, stay in a
types of campgrounds and eco-friendly converted lighthouse and participate in
resorts. penguin monitoring and land-based whale
monitoring.
New South Wales Volunteers can take a five-day trip to
• Camping and surfing go together like Cobourg Peninsula, where they can help
your ankle in its strap along NSW’s clean up debris and rubbish along the
coastline and beaches. Visit Bryon Bay, shoreline.
Angourie Beach, Fingal Bay, Crescent
Head, Lennox Head, and the iconic
Mereweather Beach.
• The drive south takes you through several The Great Barrier Reef
National Parks where you can walk and The Great Barrier Reef has been, for some
time, listed in UNESCO’s World Heritage
areas, and this year the World Heritage
Canoeing at Nitmiluk National Committee has urged the federal and
Park, Northern Territory. state governments to more vigorously
Photographer: Lincoln Fowler demonstrate their commitment to its
significance and conservation. The Great
Barrier Reef, according to the World
Heritage Committee, is close to being
listed as in danger.
Now, more than ever before, we are
being urged to consider carefully the kind
of choices we make when interacting with
Australia’s most important natural wonder,
and one way we can make a difference is
to carefully consider our holiday options.
As individuals it is sometimes difficult
to see how our small choices can make
a difference to a concern as large as
Photo courtesy of Tourism Australia ©
that facing the future of the Great
Barrier Reef; however, it is possible,
as an individual, to make sustainable
living choices knowing that it can make
a positive contribution the future of the
Great Barrier Reef.
Photo courtesy of Tourism Australia/Time Out Australia
Twelve Apostles, Great Ocean Road, Victoria.
Photographer: Roberto Seba
camp beside the lakes, rivers and the
beach: Bournda National Park is famous
for its secluded and remote camping
spots.
• Once you hit the South Coast, again,
you are availed of many of Australia’s
iconic coastal destinations: Jervis Bay
for surfing; and the Sapphire coast for
its walking, exploring, beachcombing and
whale-watching adventures.
Victoria and South Australia
• Board a paddle steamer, or rent a
houseboat on the Murray-Darling River,
where you can enjoy a natural and
cultural experience like none other in the
world.
• Victoria’s and South Australia’s
coastlines are renowned for their
sheer magnificence and scale. Several
operators offer walking holidays along
the coastlines, think Great Ocean
Road and the Fleurieu, Eyre and Yorke
Peninsulars – and it is easy to leave only
footprints and take only award-winning
photographs.
Western Australia
• From Broome in the north you can
experience the sunset over the Indian
Ocean while strolling along the 2 2 km
Photo courtesy of Tourism Australia ©
Cycling on Western Australia’s Rottnest Island.
Photographer: Adrian Brown
Photo courtesy of Tourism Australia ©
stretch of Cable Beach, arguably the
most awe-inspiring beach scenery in
Australia.
• Broome’s southern cousin, Esperence,
boasts Australia’s whitest beach at
Lucky Bay.
• And just three hours coach ride
southwest from Perth is Australia’s
premier white wine region, Margaret
River. It is the only wine-growing
region in Australia adjacent to stunning
beaches and awesome surf breaks –
everyone’s a winner.
Tasmania
• One fifth of Tasmania – 1.4 million
hectares – is the Tasmanian Wilderness
World Heritage area. You don’t have to
go far to get away from it all – including
mobile and Internet coverage.
• Lake St Clair Lodge is one of only two
accommodation facilities, in the world,
built within the boundary of a World
Heritage Listed area. It is compelled
to make extensive and long-term
commitments to ecotourism.
• Tasmania’s west coast is rugged, wild
and remote for serious wilderness
adventurers, and in contrast, its east
coast is a history buff’s paradise.
There are many wonderful reasons why
Camel riding along Cable Beach,
Western Australia
Hiking around Lake St Clair in Tasmania.
Photographer: Andreas Smetana
living and holidaying in Australia is so
appealing. One reason, which invariably
comes to the top of our list, is the
outstanding beauty of our landscape, and
the rich variety of spectacular natural
destinations that feature the majesty and
power of water.
The list of destinations is long;
however, the message is short: their
health, beauty and resilience are
the very reason we regard these
destinations highly and have them on
our bucket list. Now, more than ever, we
are compelled and equipped to make
sustainable holiday choices. The more
we come to understand the outstanding
value of Australia’s natural and cultural
heritage, the more we realise that
their conservation is vital to their
management. HG
Contact information
Ecotourism Australia
07 3252 1530
www.ecotourism.org.au
eco@ecotourism.org,au
Conservation Volunteers
03 5330 2600
www.conservationvolunteers.com.au
info@conservationvolunteers.com.au
HOME GROWN 41
Photo courtesy of Tourism Australia ©
Garden

Blueberries
Blueberry Vaccinium spp

Written by Mark Dann Horticulturist

(Horticulture Marketing Coordinator for PlantNet)

B
lueberries are well known for their
contribution to the human body’s
immune system by supplying high
antioxidant levels after consumption. With
the added plus of low pest and disease
problems with the plant, they are a great
edition to anyone’s home garden.

Tips for growing blueberries:

Site selection and planting
Select a site that has full sun most of the
day for best results. There are a number
of blueberry varieties available to the
home gardener. Not all of these can be
grown in warm or subtropical climates, so
always check this out with your nursery
before purchasing plants. In summer
in temperatures over 35°C, plants will
benefit from some minor shade to stop
plant foliage being burnt by the sun.
Many home gardeners have planted
blueberries in the ground only to find that
plants die within six months. There are
many contributing reasons for this. Low
pH (blueberries need a pH of between 4.5
and 5.5), poor drainage and compacted
soil conditions. Blueberry plants thrive in
an open soil mix which allows their fibrous
root system to spread without matting
together.
Considering all of the above, the best
way for you to have control over these
aspects is to grow blueberries in pots.
Potting media should be 50 per cent
course pine bark (10mm-20mm in size)
and 50 per cent of a premium quality
Camellia/Azalea potting mix. Add a good
quality three-month slow release fertiliser

42 HOME GROWN
Blueberries – first stages of fruit
to your potting media and mix in well. This
combination gives you a nice well drained,
open mix, with a pH in the correct range.
Always add a thin layer of pine bark to the
top of the pot to help protect fine feeder
roots from the sun.
pH can be checked if required by
purchasing a pH soil test kit from your
nearest garden centre or hardware store.
These are simple to use and are ideal for
checking soil pH over your total garden
area. If pH is high apply horticultural
sulphur as per manufacturer’s
instructions. Without an open potting
mix all blueberry varieties will only have
a life of around two years in pots. The
mix mentioned above will extend the
plants life well beyond this.
Popular varieties available
• NEW Blueberry Burst – is an Australian
bred, evergreen, early season fruiting,
naturally dwarfing variety which
grows 0.75m to 1m in height and is
characterised by its enormous fruit size
which is a crisp fleshed blueberry with a
low acid flavour. It is self-pollinating. It is
a low chill or no chill variety selected for
coastal climates such as Queensland, but
will also crop just as well in cold climates,
flowering begins in autumn ready for
fruiting in late winter and spring, and it
fruits for three months.
• Sharp Blue – is suited to low to medium
chilling areas. It is okay for milder
climates; it requires 200-300 chill hours.
Sharp Blue will bloom and fruit in most
areas of Australia, however may struggle
to set fruit during warmer winters in
coastal Queensland. A semi evergreen
bush Sharp Blue is recommended in
areas with mild winters where frosts
are uncommon. Upright, spreading bush
reaching 1.5m to 1.8m in height. Small to
medium, robust flavoured berries.
• Biloxi – this variety is known for its bushy
habit. It has a medium sized berry with
a flared crown. The plant grows 1.5m
to 2.0m in height. It is spreading and
vigorous, and flowers in late spring to
early summer. Chill requirement: Low chill
200-250 hours, an evergreen bush when
planted in warmer climates and semi
deciduous in colder climates. It starts to
fruit in mid to late spring. Biloxi is self-
pollinating, however, better yield may be
achieved through cross pollination from
any other blueberry variety.
• Misty – has a mild flavour with medium
to large berries which are mild and sweet
with a flared crown. The plant is an
upright shrub that is 2.0-2.5m in height
and flowers in late spring with beautiful
pink flowers requiring 350 hours chilling.
Harvest is around December. It is self-
pollinating, however better yield may be
achieved through cross pollination with
any other blueberry variety.
• Sunshine Blue – is a semi-dwarf variety
that produces pink blossoms in the
spring and harvests in November-
December. This variety is reasonably
low chill, requiring between 150- 200
chill hours. It is a medium sized berry
with a flared crown. Plants grow 1.0-
1.5m in height. It is self-pollinating;
however, better yield may be achieved
through cross pollination with any other
blueberry variety.
• Brigitta – A tall vigorous upright bush
to 2.4m with medium sized fruit. For
pollination purposes it is best if planted
near another variety.
Fertilising
Use a good three-month slow release
fertiliser or organic fertiliser such as
composted cow manure every three
months. Add a good organic liquid
fertiliser with added trace elements
twice throughout the growing season. A
good liquid fertilizer every two to three
weeks with high analysis as mentioned
HOME GROWN 43
Garden
below throughout the growing season
is also a must. A free draining potting
mix requires a high analysis fertiliser
with high Nitrogen (N) Potassium (K)
and Phosphorous (P). As with all fruiting
plants, nutrition and leaf health is very
important to keep plants healthy and
free from disease to ensure a constant
supply of delicious blueberries.
Watering
Because the potting media above is free
draining, in warm weather plants may
need to be watered every two days -
approximately 1.0 - 1.5 litres for young
plants and 2 - 3 litres for older fruiting
44 HOME GROWN
plants. Do not water plants over foliage as
this will create conditions for leaf fungal
diseases.
Pests and diseases
All blueberry varieties are susceptible to
fungal leaf diseases under high humidity
and high rainfall, particularly Blueberry
Rust. Apply a good organic fungicide or
copper hydroxide (product name Kocide).
Do not wait for leaf symptoms to occur
before spraying, as protection is better
than cure. Check for caterpillar damage
on a regular basis and control by organic
pesticide or by killing by squashing when
necessary.
E A S Y
For advertising enquiries email Mike Stevens
at mike@fspco.com.au or call 0401 564 773
Blueberry Burst
Birds and flying foxes
Cover with netting as soon as young
berries appear on the bush.
Pruning
Depending on the variety, minor pruning
may be required after year two to remove
any non-fruitful older branches.
Harvest
When harvesting blueberries, look for the
darkest purple fruit on the bush. Most
varieties will have a spread of harvest,
some varieties will have a delicious supply
of fruit for three months. “Blueberry
harvest is really taste and see.”
S U S TA I N A B L E L I V I N G
ADVERTISE HERE
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HG2_2 GreenPatchOrganics_yellow.indd 1 28/08/2014 2:22 pm

HOME GROWN 45
to the table
Butter Tastes Better
Natural. Delicious. Nothing added. Butter is completely natural and
has been in our diet for thousands of years.
M
aking butter is a simple process:
separate cream from milk, churn
the cream until it thickens and
add salt. And good cooks know there is no
substitute for butter in cooking.
Butter, like all foods, can be
incorporated into a healthy balanced diet.
Butter has the unique ability to enhance
the flavour of other ingredients. A little
butter goes a long way toward enhancing
the taste and texture of foods such as
wholegrain bread or vegetables, which
Australians need to eat more of.
The natural flavour of butter is
46 HOME GROWN
irreplaceable. Whether you’re baking a
cake or sautéing vegetables, there’s a type
of butter to enhance every food.
Types of Butter
• Salted butter is the most common style
of butter found in supermarkets. At most
it has 2% salt added after the buttermilk
has been drained off. Unsalted butter
contains no added salt. Reduced and
low-salt butters have about half the salt
you’d expect in regular salted butter.
• Cultured butter is also known as
Danishstyle butter. It has a culture added
to the cream before it’s churned which
develops into a slightly acidic flavour
in the final product. Then, according to
European tradition, no salt is added after
draining the buttermilk.
• Cultured salted butter, typically
Australian and not European, has salt
added with the culture.
• Clarified butter or ghee, is almost pure
milk fat (at least 99.7%) and used mainly
in cooking. It will reach much higher
temperatures before it begins to smoke
or brown and there’s almost no moisture
to cause spattering.
© Shutterstock_Sea Wave
 Butter Sauces
and Cooking Tips
• Sauté with butter. To sauté with butter,
melt butter on a medium heat and only add
food items when the butter is frothing,
otherwise the butter is absorbed and
food becomes soggy rather than crispy.
When sautéing with butter over a high
heat, add an equal proportion of oil to
the pan to ensure the butterfat does not
burn immediately. 
  use clarified
butter or ghee which have the milk solids
removed.
• Steam sauté gives a burst of buttery
flavour to vegetables. 
a tablespoon of • Dairy blends are a mixture of butter
butter in a frying pan with vegetables and a
small amount of stock, wine or juice. Cover
and steam until vegetables are just tender,
stirring occasionally.
• Red or white wine sauce For the simplest
sauce for meat, add white wine to pan
juices after cooking red meat or chicken.
Stir over a high heat until reduced to a few
tablespoons. Remove from heat and whisk
in cold butter to create a rich, buttery
taste and glossy appearance.
• Brown butter sauce or beurre noisette
makes a delicious accompaniment to
chicken, fish, vegetables or gnocchi. Simply
heat butter gently in a saucepan until it
is golden and has a nutty aroma and the
solids at the bottom of the pan are golden.
Remove from heat immediately and, if
desired, add a handful of sage leaves, pine
nuts or almonds.
• Beurre blanc is made by whisking very soft
butter into a hot liquid reduction of vinegar
and/or wine and even some herbs. Serve
immediately so that the butter retains its
velvety consistency.
• Hollandaise sauce is typically served on
fish and eggs and most famously, E ggs
Benedict or Florentine. It is made by
whisking a mixture of egg yolks and water
with melted butter, over a bain-marie until
thickened and creamy, then seasoning with
lemon juice.
• Bearnaise sauce is similar to hollandaise
sauce but it is made by whisking butter
into egg yolks and a reduced mixture of
wine, tarragon vinegar, shallots and then
seasoning with fresh tarragon. Typically
served on steak or fish.
Hollandaise sauce
as it readily absorbs odours from other
and up to 5 0 % vegetable oils, making
the mixture spreadable straight from
the refrigerator. Retaining the taste
of butter, they’re a dairy alternative to
margarine.
• Reduced-fat dairy spreads contain
between 3 0 % and 6 0 % in total fat, of
which at least half is milk fat.
• Low-fat dairy spreads are table spreads
with a total fat and oil level below 3 0 %.
These spreads are not recommended
for cooking due to their high moisture
content.
What is Butter
Butter contains at least 8 0 % milk
fat, around 1 6 % water, 1 .5 –2 .0 %
salt and 2 % other milk solids. The
fat in butter is approximately 6 7 %
saturated, 2 9 % monounsaturated and
4 % polyunsaturated. Butter contains
Vitamins A, D and E . Artificial colouring is
not used in Australia. Salt first found its
way into butter as a preservative before
refrigeration became an option and is
now an accepted flavour in Australian
butter, however, reduced-salt and unsalted
butters are also available.
Storing Butter
• Always check the use-by date, to ensure
natural freshness and quality. Butter is
best kept refrigerated at 4˚C, protected
from light and sealed in its original
container or wrapping until it is used
Recipes developed by The Dairy Kitchen, for more recipes and information on
Australian dairy visit Legendairy.com.au
© Shutterstock_Ildi Papp
foods.
• Butter will keep refrigerated for up to
eight weeks, but it is best purchased
when required rather than stored.
• Butter will soften at 30°C and melt at
35°C. In warmer climates, it is best kept
refrigerated. As temperatures rise, the
fats in butter slowly oxidise and the
butter will become rancid.
• Properly sealed, butter may be kept
frozen for up to 1 2 months.
Cooking with Butter
Pastry and scones
Always use chilled butter for making
pastry and scones. If it is too soft, the
butter will be absorbed by the flour and
the crust will be heavy and tough. Butter
in pastry not only contributes great
taste but it also “waterproofs” the flour
particles, which stops the gluten from
developing and the mixture becoming
tough and elastic. E nsure butter and flour
are well combined before adding liquid and
you’ll get a crisp and tender result!
Cake making
Use softened unsalted-butter for cake
baking. Salted butter can be used but
sometimes produces a tougher crumb in a
cake. E nsure all your ingredients (including
milk and eggs) are at room temperature
before beginning. This ensures even
distribution of ingredients and even
temperature in the oven.
HOME GROWN 47
 Growing Herbs & Vegies
Garden

for your Chickens

By Linda Mitchener from The Green Life Soil Co

A
s part of a permaculture system,
having chooks is a fantastic way to
go. They supply you with eggs, help
get rid of food scraps which may otherwise
simply go in the bin, and produce manure
which (when allowed to age) is fantastic to
use on your garden to feed your plants!
Keeping chooks is relatively easy. Do
check with your Council, as some have
regulations on how many birds you can
keep, and proximity to neighbours, etc.
Chooks need somewhere to keep warm
and dry and safe at night, access to clean,
fresh water, and ideally dirt to scratch in.
If you can plan it, allow your birds
access to your garden every now and again.
Some kind of temporary fence is a good
idea to keep them out of areas you DON’T
want them to disturb. And letting chooks
have fun in your garden between planting
seasons is worthwhile – they help get rid

48 HOME GROWN
Comfrey
of insect pests, will eat weeds and help
loosen the soil.
It is a good idea to plant out extra herbs
and greens that are particularly tasty or
beneficial to your chooks. You can use
these to supplement their feed by picking
leaves/branches and tossing them into
the pen from time to time. General poultry
tonics and laying stimulants include:
garlic, onion, chickweed, dandelion,
fennel, wormwood, rue, cress, marigold,
mint, vervain, comfrey, borage, thyme,
marjoram, sage, nasturtium, mugwort, gotu
kola and parsley.
Chickens generally enjoy green,
leafy vegetables. Growing a few extra
silver beet plants just for your girls is
a great idea. They will also appreciate
lettuce, beetroot, turnip and radish tops,
sweet potato tops, warrigal greens (NZ
spinach), spring onion tops, carrot tops,
broccoli and cauliflower leaves, kale,
cabbage, sunflowers (and their leaves)
and of course fresh winter grass weeds!
When you harvest your vegies, give the
chooks all the old, outside leaves – they
will waste nothing, and devour any
caterpillars or snails that might be hiding
in the leaves, too.
Many herbs are also insect repelling,
so grow these next to the pen (allowing
chooks to brush against them), or regularly
trim branches and toss them into the pen
so they are trodden on and scratched up
to crush the leaves and release the scent.
These insect repelling herbs include:
Artemisia’s (such as southernwood,
wormwood, mugwort), tansy and fennel,
Parsley
Beetroot leaves
rosemary, catnip, feverfew, lavender and
pennyroyal. Chooks may pick at these
herbs but will only eat what they need.
These insect repelling herbs can be
strewn in laying boxes to help repel mites
and lice. Clean boxes out regularly and use
the soft, leafy tips of the plants. Mulching
larger branches like rosemary, lavender or
wormwood can also be useful to create a
strongly scented bedding material.
For intestinal worms, many herbs can be
fed to chooks on a regular basis, including
nasturtium, nettle (which should be cooked
and added to mash), and garlic - which can
be added to mash or drinking water every
month (ideally at around the time of the
full moon – for the biodynamic gardener).
Another recommended treatment is
once a month leaves such as horseradish,
wormwood, tansy, elder, santolina, rue, and
hyssop can be mixed with onions, garlic,
grated carrots, mustard and pumpkin
seeds and then added to feed at a rate of
about 20 per cent.
If you allow your chooks to free range,
and want to grow greens and/or herbs to
allow them to pick at, surrounding your
plants with a wire cage or fence is a good
idea. The chickens will prune the greens
down but leave the rest of the plant intact,
so it can rejuvenate. Otherwise, there is
a good chance the entire plant may be
devoured at once!
Don’t just think of leafy greens for
your chickens – any surplus vegies and
fruits (or those that may be past their
prime for your family’s consumption) are
appreciated. Chickens love watermelon,
Wormwood
Warringal greens
and will also devour rockmelon, pears,
berries, pumpkin (crack them open as the
tough skin can be difficult for them to get
through), cucumbers and tomatoes.
If you are limited on space, use
seedling trays to grow wheat, alfalfa,
millet, sunflower or oats (or other
grains). Sow the seed thickly, and
provide the whole tray to the chickens
once the sprouts are about 10 – 15cms
high. If you have a few trays, start them
off a week or so apart; that way you
will always have some coming on to
provide your hens with fresh greens.
You don’t need much soil depth to do
this (which is why trays are ideal) so
they are easy to handle and work out
relatively inexpensive (you don’t need
much potting mix).
Chickens that can free range,
selecting greens for their diet and
getting protein from worms and insects
will generally be healthier and have less
pest issues than those kept in close
proximity to others. I have read that
chickens given free range to a variety of
greens provide eggs with less saturated
fat, more vitamins A and E, more beta
carotene, and at least twice the Omega
3 fatty acids than provided by caged
eggs. Whether this is scientific fact
or not, they certainly taste great and
it is wonderful to know the hens have
been allowed to enjoy the freedom of
expressing their chooky nature!
Enjoy your chooks (they are very
entertaining!), keep them healthy and enjoy
the wonderful benefit of fresh eggs. HG
Silverbeet
HOME GROWN 49
 Certifed Organic
People for Plants
Profile

People for Plants is a relatively new Australian certified organic skincare range that is
already winning awards, from Beauty Heaven for Best Launch, to Men’s Health
for its Face Scrub and Women’s Health for its Face Oil, which is amazing,
as it was the first time that organic products had won these awards.

People for plants product range

O
riginally an on-line business,
consumer demand soon ensured
People for Plants products are
stocked throughout Australia in more than
1,000 outlets, including 400 Priceline
stores, as well as David Jones, Terry
White Chemists, health food stores and
independent pharmacies.
Speaking with proud founders
Andrew Brown and Anna Addicoat, you
realise how committed they are to the
purity and integrity of their products,
and to ensuring the range is affordable.
Their range aspires to use the highest
levels of certified organic ingredients,
which are sourced globally, and are
brought back to Australia to create each
product.
Andrew says that the company’s
thinking is a world first, explaining how
it “democratises the choice for organic –
making it affordable and available – unlike
other organic products that carry high
price points. He explains that of their 22
products, 19 are made with over 90%
certified organic ingredients and the other
three are just below this, however all are
100% natural.
What is organic?
When People for Plants refers to
organic, it means only those ingredients,
and certified organic products made
from those ingredients, which have been
grown and processed under a specific
and strict set of ecological regulations,
are used. The term ‘organic’ does not
apply to natural ingredients which have
not been grown in clay, salt or water.
Organic farming methods work with
natural ecosystems rather than trying
to dominate, recognising that our world
relies on a complex, delicate balance.

50 HOME GROWN
The difference between
Natural and Organic
People for Plants describes the
difference on its website. “Initially,
the terms ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ were
used to describe products made with
ingredients that came from nature.
Unfortunately, as soon as marketers
learnt that consumers enjoyed the
idea of non-synthetic products, the
words began to appear on all sorts of
products, whether they were truthful
or not. It’s called green-washing, and
it’s possible because consumers have
to be well-informed consumers to
distinguish frauds from the real deal.
“Honest natural products contain By encouraging wildlife biodiversity How did it all start?
ingredients from plants and nature to act as a natural pest control, and by Anna and Andrew were excitedly expecting
and are minimally processed. Organic building up the nutrients in the soil to their first children – twin girls, however
products take ‘natural’ several steps grow strong, healthy crops, reliance on Anna was physically struggling, as her
further: they are made with non-GM synthetic chemicals is avoided. skin was dry, itchy, irritated and sore.
ingredients that have been grown, Determined to find a truly natural option,
raised, harvested, manufactured Why choose organic? Andrew worked with an expert in organic
and preserved without chemical We all put many substances on our bodies, ingredients to create some soothing
herbicides, pesticides, fungicides, from moisteurisers to lip gloss, much of balms for Anna, comprising pure, certified
antibiotics – giving you products with it made from synthetic materials. Andrew organic Shea butter, and they are both now
fewer contaminants. explained that the average woman uses 5 0 0 heavily involved in the ongoing creation of
“All of these extra steps cost more different synthetic chemicals each day on an organic skin care range.
in organic farming and processing, her body, so it makes perfect sense that if The family has now expanded to
which is why organic products tend to you use organic ingredients on your skin, four children (two girls and two boys),
cost more. This, of course, is part of you automatically reduce the amount of and they live as pure a life as possible
the problem: as soon as manufacturers chemical residues being absorbed by your on their farm on the banks of the
realise consumers will pay more for a skin. The Natural and Organic segment of the Hawkesbury River near Windsor, on
product with ‘organic’ on the label, the skin care market is the fastest growing area the outskirts of Sydney. Andrew has
word starts to appear. And here are as more and more people become aware of transformed the farm from a redundant
some of the tricks used: the chemical the danger of synthetic products on their orange orchard to a self-sustaining
definition of organic is ‘a compound skin, and want natural products. 8 hectare (2 0 -acre) farm which now
that contains a carbon atom’. Since
carbon is found in anything that
lives or has ever lived, unscrupulous
companies use synthetic chemicals
derived from petroleum products,
and describe them as organic
preservatives. This use of the word,
of course, has nothing at all to do with
the reason you might be interested in
the product. Another label deception:
since water is the primary ingredient
in many products, some manufacturers
claim to use organic floral waters or
hydrosols. Look at the label a little
closer and you’ll also see synthetic
toxic ingredients. That’s your first clue
the product has been green-washed
and that you’ll want to put it back on
the shelf!”

HOME GROWN 51
Profile
The vegie patches and rose gardens
on their Hawkesbury property
provides the family with most of their
fruit and vegetable needs (including
enough produce for Anna’s acclaimed
jams and preservatives), plus meat
from pigs, sheep and cows. The children
are also ‘free range’, with chores and
responsibility for the farm animals which
now also include peacocks, chickens,
ducks, horses, the family dogs Ranger
and Bear, and Lucky the cat, left behind
by the previous owners (lucky indeed!)
Jamie Durie
Horticulture and lifestyle expert and long-
time friend and business partner of Anna
52 HOME GROWN
and Andrew, Jamie Durie champions the
products and provides valuable expertise.
“I’ve always been passionate about
connecting people with plants,” explains
Jamie, “and what we can learn from them
to give ourselves a sense of wellbeing to
enrich our own lives. This extraordinary
range gives me the opportunity to distil
what I’ve learned about plants and
horticulture from around the world, to
develop a beautiful selection of skincare
products. When you use the People for
Plants range you are making the best
possible choice for your skin Naturally,
Organically, Honestly.”
Just going for a
gander!
Proven quality
Organic Certification of the People for Plants
ingredients and products reinforces the
quality of the product. As well as submitting
the final formulation for approval by the
Australian Certified Organic (ACO), which
is the largest of its kind in Australia, each
ingredient and every single step of the
process on its journey from field to finished
product must be validated, as this the only
true test of purity of product and ingredients.
When you look at a People for Plants product
you’ll see a very specific grading, such as the
divine Rosehip, Calendula and Chamomile
Face Oil, with a 97.8% Organic Certified
One of their many fruit trees Andrew with their turkey On the property

rating, so you can be confident in the quality
and purity of the products you are buying
and putting on your skin.
Plans for the future?
Andrew says they are excited for the
future. Already trading via on-line in
the US, the company is about to expand
into the Asian market, where there
is enormous demand and respect for
organic products. At this stage the range
will not go into China, because China
has a ruling where all products must be
tested on animals before being launched
onto the market, and this does not fit the
People for Plants vision of cruelty free
products. HG
Contact details:
People for Plants
Web: www.peopleforplants.com.au

HOME GROWN 53
do it yourself

Pallets to ...
Bench Seat and Storage Box
This issue we bring you a step-by-step on how to build a
handy bench and storage/planter box.
By James Bastoli

Step 1: Select 6 uniform pallets. mark 1 slat thickness around the entire
Disassemble pallets using a claw hammer perimeter (Photo 2). Measure between the
Safety Equipment & pinch bar. Retain top slats and underside lines across 5 slats = L2. Cut 2 slats into
• Safety Glasses gluts. Remove nails with claw hammer. 4 equal pieces at L2 – Piece B
• Ear Muffs or Ear Plugs Select best uniform slats. Step 4: Align Piece B inside marked
• Gloves Step 2: Measure width of slats. Box will be perimeter across slats on one side. Predrill
5 slats high, so 5 x width of slat = Length and screw fix. Repeat on other side to
Tools 1 (L1). Cut 10 slats into 20 equal pieces at create box front (Photo 3). Repeat step
• Claw Hammer D1 – Piece A (Photo 1). 3 and 4 to create box back.
• Pinch Bar Step 3: Align 5 x Piece A side by side and Step 5: Stand up box front vertically.
• Tape Measure flush at ends. Use another Piece A to Starting from the bottom side, screw fix
• Pencil
• Wood screws (nominally 28mm)
• Drill
• Pre-drill bit (nominally 3mm)
• Impact Driver
• Phillips bit

Material
• Pallets in reasonable condition

54 HOME GROWN
64GROWN
HOME
1 2
 3 4 5

6 7
through a face of Piece A into the edge
of Piece B. Stand up box back vertically
and repeat (Photo 4). Repeat until 5 high.
Repeat on the other side (Photo 5).
Step 6: Lay box on side.
 between
both Piece B = L3. Cut 2 slats into 4 equal
pieces at L3 to create 4 x Piece C. Screw
fix Piece C flush to top and bottom of
Piece B on both sides to create a lip for
top and bottom (Photo 6).
Step 7: Stand box upside down.

between 2 sides = L4. (Photo 7). Cut 5
slats in 1 0 equal pieces at L4 to form box
top and bottom rails - Piece D. Screw fix
5 x Piece D to edge of internal cleats to
create bottom (Photo 8). Turn box upright.
Step 8: Take L3 minus 20mm = L5. Cut
1 slat into 2 equal L5 – Piece E. Align 5
remaining Piece D together. Screw fix
Piece E balanced across 5 slats, stepped in
5 0 mm from each side. Repeat at other end
to create box top (Photo 9). Using a 18mm
8
core drill bit drill out a semicircular finger
hole in centre front of box top. (Photo 10).
Step 9:
  external side of box = L6.
Cut 3 slats into 6 equal pieces at L6 to
form 6 x Piece F. Select 4 x Piece F. Screw
fix together to form 2 x L cleats Piece G
(Photo 12).
Step 10: Select 5 uniform gluts. Cut at
desired bench width to form 5 benchtop
rails Piece H (Photo 13).
Step 1 1 : Align flush and screw fix through

9 10 11

12 13 14 HOME GROWN
HOME GROWN 65
55
do it yourself
15
1 x Piece G to Piece H. Repeat at other
end. Balance 3 remaining Piece H
between and screw fix to Piece G
(Photo 15).
Step 12: At other end, mark 1 glut
thickness across 5 Benchtop Rails. Align
flush and balanced in the middle and screw
fix through 1 x piece G to this line across
the 5 benchtop rail (Photo 14).
18
56 HOME GROWN
16
Step 13: Measure from bottom of box
12
to top of 2nd highest slat. Screw fix from
inside box so top of benchtop is flush to
top of 2nd highest slat on box (Photo 17).
Step 14: Measure from underside of
benchtop to bottom of box = L7. Cut gluts
at L7 to form 5 end rails. Screw fix 5 end
rails to BT cleat to create BT Leg
(Photo 18).
19
17
Step 15: Measure underside of benchtop
between Piece G cleats. Cut 1 glut to
13
this dimension to form Piece I. Using 2 x
remaining Piece F, screw through centre
of each Piece F into Piece I to create a
bottom I Brace (Photo 19).
Step 16: Screw fix bottom of I brace
to bottom of box side and bottom of
benchtop leg ends (Photo 20).
20
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HOME GROWN 57
Environment
Composting
Compost - making and managing it. Problems and pitfalls.
By John Mason, Gavin Cole and Adriana Fraser
C
ompost is indeed the powerhouse
in any growing system, but is
particularly valuable in organic
growing where chemical fertilisers are not
used. Its benefits cannot be underestimated:
• It improves soil structure in all types
of soil
• It provides slow-release nutrients for
plants to use when required
• It increases the level of soil micro-
organisms exponentially
• Composted soils produce plants which
are more resistant to attacks from pests
and diseases
58 HOME GROWN
HOME
• Compost-making is an environmentally
sustainable method of recycling ‘waste’
material
• Home-made compost is effectively
cost-free
What can be composted?
• Any organic material, if left long
enough, will eventually rot down due
to the action of microorganisms.
Composting harnesses and maximises
this process, speeding up the rate of
decomposition and minimising nutrient
losses.
• The raw material for good compost-
making is a mixture of organic materials:
• Lawn clippings
• Weeds
• Leaves
• Paper or cardboard waste
• Seaweed (with salt washed out)
• Plant clippings
• Plant leaves and debris
• Straw
• Manure
• Pre-meal kitchen waste
• Animal manures (sheep, cattle, poultry
and horse) are also a good addition to
 “The effect of compost on a crop is nothing short of profound - the leaves glow with health;
the flowers develop depth of colour; root development is profuse. Vegetables and fruits are
always superior in quality, taste and keeping power to those raised by other means.”
Sir Albert Howard, on compost, in An ‘ Agricultural Testament’ (1940)
Tip
Beware of contamination!
A compost heap should be
made on bare soil. If piled onto
a solid base, such as concrete,
liquid will soon start to seep
from the waste material. This
can cause contamination of
drains and water courses. If
you intend to produce large
quantities of compost, make
sure that you comply with your
local environmental regulations
covering management of
leachate.
a compost heap. Fresh manure has high
levels of ammonium which can burn the
leaves and roots of plants so you should
allow it to compost for a minimum of six
weeks before applying it around plants.
The ammonium is rapidly lost during the
composting process.
• Tough stems and stalks such as those of
cabbage leaves can be pulverised before
adding to the heap.
What is the C/N ratio?
The microorganisms that break down
plant materials require food in the form of
nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. The
most important requirement is the ratio of
the percentage carbon (C) in the materials,
to the percentage Nitrogen (N). This is called
the carbon/nitrogen ratio. Woody waste has
25 times as much carbon as it has nitrogen,
so its C/N ratio is simply expressed as the
number 25. A C/N ratio of around 30 is
required for compost activity to take place
at an optimum rate. To get a suitable overall
C/N ratio it is necessary to mix materials
with a high C/N ratio, such as wood shavings,
with materials that have a low C/N ratio,
such as green plant waste.
So what do you need to make great
compost?
• Plenty of organic matter in the right ratio
(as above).
• Sufficient nutrients, particularly nitrogen
the bacteria that break down material
in the compost need nitrogen to survive
(they will die in low nitrogen levels).
Nitrogen levels can be maintained by the
addition of manure.
• Sufficient and well-dispersed oxygen
to speed up the rate of decomposition.
Oxygen can be added to a compost heap
by using ventilated pipes running through
the heap or by turning the compost
regularly. Water can often build up at
the base of a compost heap to a degree
where it slows the composting process.
Lay agricultural pipes underneath the
HOME GROWN 59
HOME
Environment
Innovate -a bin made
from old metal sheets
heap to help remove excess water.
• Sufficient and well-dispersed water
water content of above 50% will give
good rates of decomposition, but too
much water (maximum 80%) make the
compost waterlogged and stale. If the
compost is too dry, add water to the
compost when it is turned. The compost
should have the moisture content of a
squeezed sponge - damp, but not soggy!
• A source of nutrients, especially
calcium – to stabilise the compost.
Calcium acts as a buffer to stop pH
levels from varying too much. Gypsum
is sometimes added to compost heaps
as a source of calcium at the rate of
13kg per cubic metre of compost. This
also has the effect of reducing odours
and reducing nitrogen losses.
• Appropriate temperature for the
compost heap to decompose effectively,
60 HOME GROWN
HOME
the heap needs to reach a temperature
of between 40 and 60°C. This heat is
generated by the ‘body’ heat given off
by the microbes in the heap. If the heap
becomes too hot then some of these
microbes can be killed. Cool the heap by
blowing air through ventilation pipes in
the heap or by turning it regularly.
• Appropriate pH, since plant sap is acidic,
compost heaps will start off acidic and may
become more acidic in the early stages of
decomposition, this will stabilise to earlier
levels later. Lime or dolomite can be added
to offset the initial drop in pH however
this may result in the loss of nitrogen
from the heap, thereby slowing down the
decomposition process.
Hot heaps Vs cold heaps
Much has been written about the ‘hot
heap’. This is where a large quantity of
Two heaps allows you to be
building one while using the other
What can go wrong?
The main reasons for compost failing are
as follows:
• Too wet - if the compost smells foul
this is probably the case; turn it more
often and add dry materials.
• Too dry - if the centre of the heap is
dusty, this is far too dry – add water.
• Lack of nutrients, such as phosphorus
or potassium, may reduce the rate of
decomposition. Add materials high in
these nutrients to rectify this problem.
• Carbon/nitrogen ratio is incorrect - lack
of nitrogen because of too much high
ratio material is common.
C/N ratios of some compostable materials
Material .........................................C/N Ratio
Cow manure ................................................ 15
Eucalypt bark............................................250
Sawdust (old) ...........................................200
Eucalypt sawdust (fresh) .....................500
Grass clippings .................................... 20-25
Leaves (mature) ........................................ 60
Lucerne hay ................................................ 13
Paper ...........................................................170
Peanut shells ............................................. 12
Pine bark (fresh) .....................................500
Composted pine bark (average) ........200
Poultry manure ............................................. 7
Poultry litter .........................................1011
Rice hulls ...................................................140
Mixed weeds .............................................. 19
Straw (wheat) ..........................................128
Straw (general) ........................................100
Straw (oat) .................................................. 48
Corn stalks, leaves and cobs ...... 50-100
Oak leaves ................................................... 50
Bracken leaves .......................................... 48
Green rye grass ......................................... 36
Ash leaves ................................................... 30
Clover (old plants) ............................. 20-30
Vegetable peelings ........................... 20-30
Fruit wastes ............................................... 35
Well-decomposed manure (average) 20
Seaweed (average) ........................... 20-25
Pea or bean plants ................................... 15
Clover (young seedlings) ........................ 12
Cabbage heads .......................................... 12
Tomato leaves and stems ..................... 12
Mature compost ....................................... 10
Comfrey leaves ......................................... 10
Chicken litter (average with sawdust)10
Chicken manure (no sawdust) .................. 7
Blood meal ..................................................... 4

compostable materials is piled together
– a minimum of one cubic metre is the
recommendation – and mixed well.
Organisms in the materials become very
volatile and active, which creates heat.
Temperatures in a hot heap can quickly
soar to 80°C and above. After a few days,
the organisms start to die off, and the
heap starts to cool. At this point, the
heap is turned in order to incorporate
more oxygen, and mix un-composted
material from the sides, to the middle.
The temperature will rise again. This
turning process can be done several times,
resulting in finished compost within a few
weeks, even in winter. However, this is a
time-consuming process, and not always
possible or practical.
Many compost heaps remain cool,
as their volume is small, and material
is added ‘little and often’. If this is the
case, compost will take much longer to
mature – usually around 1 2 months. It is
most important that this type of compost
heap should not be overloaded with large
quantities of one type of material, such as
a huge pile of hedge clippings, or a thick
layer of grass clippings. Always make sure
that the balance of wet to dry material is
correct. Remember, weed seeds in a cold
heap will not be killed.
Although a cold heap will take much
longer to produce finished compost, both
methods will produce an excellent product,
rich in fertility for your garden.
The benefits of a hot heap are:
• Compost produced quickly
• Weed seeds killed in the heat
Simple composting with
a circle of wire mesh
hidden amongst shrubs
The benefits of a cold heap are:
• No time spent turning the heap
How to build a compost heap
The easiest way to build a compost heap
is simply to pile materials in a heap, or in a
container of some sort.
Use a good mix of organic materials. Wet
material should be in thin layers (around 3cm
thick) covered by dry organic material, such
as dry straw or shredded paper.
There should be a layer of soil between
layers of organic material. This should
be freely draining soil not heavy clay.
The soil layer introduces microorganisms
necessary for the decomposition of
organic matter.
If using a large amount of dry material
such as straw, wood shavings or paper,
add some manure to boost the levels of
nitrogen in the composting material. To
prevent sawdust from packing down in a
solid layer, mix well with coarse material,
such as chopped stalks, and plenty of
green waste to add nitrogen.
If possible, turn the heap with a garden
fork weekly. Remember to keep the heap
covered, especially in wet weather. In hot
countries, or during long spells of dry
weather, it may be necessary to water the
heap occasionally.
In warm conditions, a heap that is
regularly turned and aerated can be ready
in around six weeks. In colder weather it
can take several months.
The finished product
Compost is ready to use when:
• It is crumbly and generally an even
Compost tumbler allows
compost to be turned regularly
for faster decomposition
texture (material such as straw, or flower
stems might be still intact)
• It should drain well, but still have good
moisture-holding capacity
• It should be dark in colour
• It should smell earthy and sweet, not of
rotten eggs!
• Its temperature is the same as air
temperature (all heating and cooling
should have finished if the hot heap
method has been used)
How to use compost
Compost can be used either as mulch
spread on the surface of the ground, or it
can be spread in a 2 .5 cm layer onto the
soil and then dug in to the top few inches.
Don’t dig it too deep or you’ll upset the
balance of your soil. Earthworms will take
it deeper. Coarser compost is the most
suitable for use as mulch.
Do not leave compost too long
(particularly in warm weather) before
using it since nutrients can be lost over
time.
Don’t plant in pure compost alone.
Compost is good for most plants, but it
doesn’t have everything a plant needs, or it
may be too rich.
Spring is the best time to apply
compost. The nutrients will be available
for plant roots to take up ready for the
growth season.
Different composting methods:
In a heap
You can produce compost successfully
in a heap without any container, but
always have the heap covered to prevent
HOME GROWN 61
HOME
Environment
the material becoming either too dry
or too wet.
Compost bins
Compost bins are a great way to make and
easily contain small amounts of compost.
They hold water well and in direct sun
the plastic can trap heat, speeding the
decomposition process, but it can get too
Materials to avoid in a compost heap:
• Meat or fish - can attract vermin, and
become putrid.
• Roots of perennial weeds (unless hot
composting.
• Seed heads of annual weed.
• Too much of any one material in one
layer. Grass clippings should be added
in layers not more than 4–6cm deep
and preferably mixed with some dry
material.
• Layers of evergreen clippings - these
need to be finely shredded.
• Evergreens like pine needles, moss
and rubbery plant leaves (too slow to
break down).
• Diseased plant material – be wary of
soil-borne diseases such as club-root
(brassicas), white rot (onions), potato
cyst eelworm.
• Material that has been sprayed with
herbicides.
• Thorny or spiky plant material - thorns
don’t decompose easily and can cause
injury once the compost is spread.
62 HOME GROWN
HOME
Compost in the shade
hot so semi-shaded is best. Fixed bins can
be difficult to aerate, and are prone to
becoming too dry or too wet. Rotating bins
are more expensive but provide quicker,
more reliable results – the ones with a
handle are best.
In a garbage bag
A large, heavy duty plastic garbage bag
can be used to make compost easily
anywhere, anytime. Place a couple of
shovels full of food scraps or other
compostable material in a bag, sprinkle
with fine cover of lime and fertiliser and
repeat until the bag is full. Moisten each
layer. Keep the smell down by tying the
top. Place in direct sunlight in cool areas/
months to keep warmer.
Indore method
Sir Albert Howard devised this first
scientific method of composting. The
average pile is 2m wide, 1-2m high and
3-5m long.
Spread a 15cm layer of plant waste
on the chosen area’s length and width -
spoiled hay, straw, sawdust, leaves, food
scraps, wood chips, and the like.
Add a 5cm layer of manure.
Follow with a thin layer of topsoil to
0.5cm depth. This soil is sprinkled with
lime, phosphate rock, granite dust, or wood
ashes to increase the mineral content and
moisten the pile. Continue layering to the
desired height.
Vertical ventilator pipes made of tubes
of wire netting are placed along the centre
of the heap, approximately 1m apart.
It’s never too early to start
learning about compost
Heating starts within a couple of
days. Turn after two to three weeks
and again three weeks later, placing the
outer parts of the heap to the inside
so that they fully decay. The heap will
heat up to almost 65°C at the beginning.
After the first turn the temperature will
again rise, but it then settles to a steady
temperature of about 55°C.
The compost is finished in about three
months. Since its inception, faster results
have been obtained by mixing the layers as
soon as they are added, rather than leaving
them as separate layers.
The 14 day method
This was devised by scientists at the
University of California - fewer nutrients
are leached in this fast method:
All material that goes into the
compost pile is ground or shredded.
Grinding means the surface area of
material (on which microorganisms
can multiply) is greatly increased, and
aeration of the compost is improved
because shredded material has a lesser
tendency to mat or pack down. Moisture
content is also improved, and turning of
the heap is much easier.
No layering of material is used. The
material is mixed either before or after
shredding then piled into heaps no more
than 1.5m high.
After three days, the heap is turned and
every three days after that for two weeks.
If the pile has dropped at this point, the
compost is sufficiently decayed to use on
the soil.
 Sheet composting
Used in farming – but useful for new
properties or gardens:
• Cultivate the area lightly and sow a green
manure crop such as soybeans, clover or
cowpeas.
• Slash these nitrogen-rich plants before
they reach maturity, then spread
compost materials over the area. Low-
nitrogen materials such as decomposed
sawdust, corncobs and wood chips can
be spread without any fear of causing
nitrogen shortages later on.
• Work the mass evenly into the top 10cm
of soil, preferably with a rotary hoe.
• Add limestone or dolomite, rock
phosphate, granite dust, or other natural
mineral fertilisers along with the other
sheet compost ingredients. The decay of
the organic matter will assist the release
of the nutrients locked up in these
relatively insoluble fertilisers.
Worm farms
Worms are great at converting organic
matter into nutrient-rich compost and will
do so within 60 days. The castings are far
more nutrient-rich than animal manures.
You can buy great little worm farms all
set and ready to go along with the right
Tip rubbish in the top; shovel
compost on the bottom path
composting worms e.g. tiger worms or red Trench composting
wrigglers (two of the best varieties). This method is only advised for well-
Composting with earthworms can also drained soils and during warmer months
be done in wooden boxes or an old bath when decomposition is rapid. Just dig
stored in a cool position, so they don’t a trench, add some blood and bone for
overheat: nitrogen, throw in the material and cover
• Use wooden cases of about 1m square with soil. Wait a few weeks before planting
and 0.5m high. since decomposing green waste can cause
• Place 50cm of thoroughly mixed raw phytotoxicity - which inhibits, rather than
materials in the boxes. For example: enhances, plant growth. This problem
70% weeds, leaves, grass clippings, etc., reduces rapidly upon decomposition. HG
about 15% manure (or table scraps and
vegetable peel) and 15% topsoil. Don’t
put in the worms straight away if the mix
is too hot – they may die so wait for the
temperature to stabilise.
• Keep it watered but not overly wet or too
much air will be excluded.
• It is the combined action of the
earthworms, bacteria and fungi that
produces the best kind of compost.
• After 60 days remove half a box of
composted material and replace it with
the raw materials. In another 60 days
the new material will be completely
composted. It is advisable to feed the
worms with something equivalent to Learn more about Composting and
chicken mash, but you can make your Organic Gardening
own feed using ground corn and coffee Organic Gardening by John Mason–
grounds. available from www.acsbookshop.com
Compost anything organic HOME GROWN 63
HOME GROWN 73
to the table

Vegetable Juices
By John Mason and Adriana Fraser

W
e are all accustomed to drinking
fruit juices, but a great way of
improving the nutritional value
of your morning juice, improving your
health and feeling great, could be to try
juicing or blending vegetables. They are a
fast and convenient way to add nourishing
vegetables to your diet - all you need is a
good blender or juicer and access to clean,
fresh and preferably organic vegetables.
There are some suggestions that fresh
vegetable juice could be used as a way to
control weight and others also suggest
that it could be used to detoxify their
system and restore the health of their
bodies through to cellular level.
Everyone knows about fruit juices,
carrot juice, tomato juice, and maybe even
melon juice - but you can create juice from
almost any vegetable. In fact anything
that can be eaten fresh (without cooking)
can be juiced. Some vegetables, however,
need cooking in order to be palatable or to
remove undesirable chemicals in the flesh;
for example potatoes or brown onions
would not be good candidates for juicing.
The biggest trick to creating fresh and
enjoyable vegetable juices is to make them
taste good by including carrots or some
fruit for sweetness. This is a great way to
avoid drinking a mix that is akin to tasting
of grass clippings!

The nutritional content of fruit

and vegetables varies depending
on growing conditions, age of
Shutterstock © Anna Hoychuk

vegetables and cultivar. Please refer

to a nutritionist or dietician for
nutritional advice relating to your
specific dietary needs.

64 HOME GROWN

74 HOME GROWN
Vitamins and minerals in vegetables
Beetroot: Iron, calcium, and beta-
carotene. Beet leaves are also great and
can be used just like silver beet to which
they are very closely related (great way
of avoiding wastage too).
Bok-choy: Valuable source of folate and
is packed with vitamins A and C (great
antioxidants) and vitamin K.
Broccoli: Vitamin A (beta carotene) and
vitamin K – these two combined help to
keep vitamin D in balance in the body.
Broccoli is thought to lower cholesterol
(not as efficiently raw as it is steamed,
but there are still benefits).
Cabbage: Vitamin C and folate
Capsicum: Vitamins C, A, B6, potassium
and magnesium
Carrots: Lots of antioxidants like
vitamin C but also beta-carotene (a
phytonutrient antioxidant).
Celery: Full of antioxidants e.g. Vitamin
C plus potassium and flavonoids – this
is best chopped just before you need to
use it to reduce nutrient loss.
Cucumbers: Beta-carotene, vitamin c
and manganese to name a few. Cool and
refreshing too.
Kale: Packed with goodness! Vitamin C,
K, A, folate to name a few.
Lemon: Vitamin C which helps to absorb
non-heme iron within vegetables such The best vegetables to blend to give a final taste and consistency that is
as spinach, kale, beans and lentils etc. You can use virtually any vegetable that is tasty and nutritionally balanced. Consider
This form of iron is what you find as able to be eaten raw; however, some make adding any of the following:
additives in iron-enriched and iron- better drinks than others. Some of the • Plain yoghurt, kefir or probiotic powder
fortified foods. Our bodies are less best include: • Small amounts of lemon rind or lemon
efficient at absorbing non-heme iron so • Tomato juice
lemon will help with absorption. Lemons • Lettuce - red or green leaf lettuce or any • Oats
are also great alkalising fruit to offset other lettuce • Ice
the effects of acidity in the body. • Cabbage, Chinese cabbage, kale, silver • Herbs - such as parsley, mint, basil
Lettuce: Great source of Thiamin, B6, beet, spinach, bok-choy, beetroot leaves • Nuts like almonds, cashews or walnuts
iron and potassium plus fibre • Celery, cucumber (better soaked overnight)
Tomato: Great source of vitamin C, A, B6 • Broccoli • Seeds, such as chia, sunflower, pumpkin,
and potassium • Small amounts of sweet capsicum, linseed or LSA mix (better soaked
Spinach: Vitamins A, B2, C, K, carrots, beets, zucchini, wheatgrass, overnight)
magnesium and lots more! Use dark (plus small amounts of apples, kiwi fruit, • Goji or Acai berries
green leaves as lighter leaves are less pineapple, banana, mango, blueberries, • Avocados
nutritious raspberries, orange or lemon to improve • Bananas
Silver beet: Magnesium, calcium, vitamin palatability and vitamin absorption). • Almond milk (or other types of milk)
K, iron, potassium, vitamin A – and lots Berries are lower in sugar than some • Ginger
more! A great source of dietary fibre too. other fruits and frozen ones are very • Turmeric
Wheatgrass: Vitamins C, E, and K. Use convenient. • Coconut water
only small amounts as wheatgrass is • Pea or brown rice protein powder
high in cellulose which does make it hard Other things you could consider adding: • Other fruits or fruit juices (use sparingly)
to digest You can mix things other than vegetables
Zucchini: Includes vitamins A, C, K and into a vegetable juice or smoothie; but it is Note: ice or ice cold foods can slow
folate important to use things that are compatible, digestion.

HOME GROWN 65

to the table
Blender or juicer?
One of the main things to keep in mind
is that they both will give you different
results. If you juice your ingredients it will
remove all the fibrous content; fibre is
good for your digestive system. Juicing, by
removing the fibre, increases the body’s
ability to absorb the sugar content in the
juice – this can lead to sugar spikes which
is not good for your health (especially
for those with blood sugar problems).
However, it is great for hydration
purposes.
Blending, on the other hand, will ensure
that you have all the health benefits. It
fuels the body with vital nutrition. When
you blend your juices all the vegetable and
or fruits’ fibrous content is included and
the fibre is also broken down somewhat by
the blending process, making it easier to
digest. Including the fibrous content slows
down the body’s absorption of nutrients
i.e. they are released in a more sustained
manner. Fibre also makes you feel fuller
for longer!
Most people are able to digest fibre
readily and it is a healthy requirement for
our bodies – however if you have a problem
with fibre, for example you have a sensitive
digestive system or a digestive illness that
66 HOME GROWN
inhibits your body digesting fibre, then you
would be best to use a juicer.
Making the juice
• Wash all vegetables well, making sure all
bugs and dirt are removed and then let
them drain in a colander
• Cut them up into small pieces
• Add your chosen liquid to your blender
• Blend soft green vegetables first then
add carrot, celery cucumber etc.
• Add other ingredients (if you want to use
them)
What to do with the juice?
• Drink it - its best consumed fresh!
• Use it as a mixer e.g. with carbonated
drinks or alcoholic drinks
• Store refrigerated in sealed bottles - you
can make enough juice to last two or three
days if you store it in a clean, airtight
container in your fridge, but do remember
that it is always used best fresh.
• Freeze it as ice blocks
• Use in a soup (cold or hot)
Mix up some of your own creations – try
different combinations. Be bold and
adventurous, you never know, you may
stumble upon a great combination!
Tips
• Always use fresh vegetables
• Make sure that for each serving you
use at least 2/3 green vegetables
and no more than 1/3 fruit, carrots
or beets (anything high in fructose);
blood sugar levels spike if you
use too many sweet fruits and
vegetables. This is important for
everyone but especially so if you have
problems with the control of blood
sugar or if you are diabetic.
• Preferably use organic produce for
best health benefits but if you can’t
then just make sure you wash your
vegetables really well before using.
You even could rinse your vegetables
in a wash consisting of a ratio of 1
tablespoon of apple cider vinegar to
1 cup of water- soak for five minutes
and rinse well with water.
• Locally available and seasonal fruit
and vegetables are best
• Try to include the edible peel or
skins as these contain most of the
nutritional value as well as the most
fibre
• Use a variety of vegetables and vary
those you use each day
• Most fruits can be added to leafy
vegetable blends, but if you use
starchy vegetables like carrots and
beets or even zucchini or broccoli
then only use apple; starchy food
blended with fruits high in sugars
can have an effect on the functioning
ability of the digestive enzymes in
your bod
• Blend for as short a time as possible
to prevent oxidisation (when the
food is exposed to oxygen through
processing it immediately triggers
oxidisation) and this can affect the
nutritional value. To help prevent this
blend slowly at first and then only on
high for a couple of seconds.
• Buy the best blender possible within
your budget. A strong motor (i.e. 600
watt) will pulverise broccoli stems,
watermelon and grape seeds which
are rich in zinc and magnesium. It also
makes it easier for the nutrients to
be absorbed into the body.
• Drink it fresh - delicious!
• Clean the blender thoroughly after use
 Recipes
Immune Booster – blender recipe Method
• 1-2 handfuls rinsed spring greens/ Add all ingredients to a blender and

 process until smooth. Serve in a cocktail
• 1 banana glass with a stick of celery.
• 1 orange (peeled)
• 1 cup of pineapple pieces Super Refreshment
• 1 handful blueberries • 1/2 apple
• Water • 10cm cucumber
• 1 bunch bok-choy
Green Zingy Smoothie • Small handful of mint
• 10cm of cucumber (seeded) • 1/2 lime (skin removed)
• 1 handful spinach, kale or bok-choy
• 1 cup of pineapple or kiwi fruit Method Leonie’s
• 1cm ginger - peeled & grated Add all ingredients (starting with liquid
• 1 cup coconut water (or filtered water) and your green leaves) to a blender and Vegetable Smoothie
process until smooth.
Method Ingredients
Add all ingredients (starting with liquid Awesome Orange • 1 cup grated beetroot

e o 

p

 h o  p

e

e • 2 carrots • Few spinach leaves
process until smooth. • 1 stick celery • 50g soaked cashew nuts (almonds
• 1/2 orange o
 o  o o 
o 

 o 


The Mediterranean • 1/2 apple  h
• 2 tomatoes • 1cm ginger – peeled & grated • 50g linseed
• 1/2 capsicum • 1/2 cup water • 1/2  o




• Small handful basil • 1 cup coconut water (or filtered water)
• Pinch of Himalayan salt Method
• 5cm piece cucumber • Add all ingredients to a blender and Method
• Squeeze of lemon juice process until smooth.HG • Soak nuts overnight or for a few hours to
m

m


e o 
• Drain before using
Important to note: Ensure that you do not use the apple seeds and cherry, • Add all ingredients to a blender and
peach or plum pits when blending or juicing as they contain a chemical that  o 
 
 p  moo 
can release cyanide into the body when ingested.
Serves 1-2
Shutterstock © Anna Hoychuk

HOME GROWN 67
Garden
Versatile Herbs
Use herbs to fill gaps and tricky spots in your garden
By John Mason, Adriana Fraser and Gavin Cole
H
erbs can be grown almost
anywhere – you don’t need a
“designated herb garden”.
Grow them alone, alongside or between
other plants. They can be used as edging
plants, as under-planting, as bed fillers or
in those difficult spots, where little else
will grow.
Herbs are fantastic interspersed
throughout the garden – for example,
thymes are great edging plants for garden
borders or rose beds, golden marjoram
looks lovely in a perennial border, and
garlic or onion chives make good edging
and accent plants. They can also be used
68 HOME GROWN
under roses to help deter pests. Others
such as artichokes can play an important
architectural role in your garden, adding
height, interest and drama to an otherwise
ordinary planting scheme. Herbs such as
curry plant, rosemary, sage and lavenders
can be trimmed as hedges to edge garden
beds or to delineate one area from
another.
Some herbs like mint will do well along
shady fence lines, but you should use
a root barrier (dug into the ground) to
prevent it spreading too far, otherwise
it may take over your garden! There are
species which grow well in between pavers
like low-growing thymes which bear
flowers in white, pink, mauve or magenta
in spring and summer – these tough, sun
and heat loving species will thrive in these
conditions. Winter and summer savory
also do well in very hot and dry spots – just
trim these back at the end of winter to
encourage new spring and summer growth.
Almost all herbs make exceptional pot
plants – you could group several smaller
growing types (e.g. thyme, parsley, chives
and oregano) in a single large pot, or plant
just one large species such as a bay tree,
rosemary, or sage plant in the centre
of the pot. Herbs can also be utilised
Lemon grass (Cymbopogon citratus)

Herbs that can be planted in Summer
Given some care and water, most
shrubby herbs can be planted
throughout summer in most areas
(except the hot inland). Plants such as
lavenders, sages, shrubby thymes, and
rosemary will not present a problem.
Other herbs with softer leaves may
not be suitable for planting during the
hottest time of the year. Plants such
as basil, parsley, and mint can still be
planted but wait for a week of cooler
conditions before attempting it. This
way, by the time another hot spell
comes round they will have settled in
and will be more likely to survive.
• Cool areas – basil, chives, coriander,
dill, fennel, lemongrass, marjoram,
mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary,
tarragon and thyme.
• Mediterranean type climates – basil,
chives, and any woody shrubby type
herbs
• Temperate areas – basil, chives,
coriander (slow bolting varieties),
fennel, lovage, mint, parsley and
tarragon.
• Sub-tropical areas – basil, chives,
coriander, fennel, lemongrass, mint,
parsley, tarragon and winter savoury.
• Tropical areas – basil, coriander,
lemongrass, mint and tarragon.
• Dry Inland areas – it’s too hot here,
you’re better waiting until autumn.
Thyme (Thymus Gibsons Cave)
against your front fence (a spot where
weeds usually love to take hold) or as an
alternative to grass on your nature strip or
verge, that way the entire neighbourhood
can enjoy them too.
If you have a damp, poorly-drained
spot in the garden then the mints 

spp.) will thrive there (again, a root barrier
would be advisable). Alternatively, try
Vietnamese mint (Polygonum odoratum).
Like common mint, this species also likes
lots of water and will thrive in shady or
semi-shaded spots.
Using herbs to fill gaps in the
summer garden
Summer can be both a joy and curse for
your garden: a joy, because things can
grow faster, but a curse because pests and
diseases also develop faster. And when
they do, it’s not uncommon for plants to
die unexpectedly, leaving a big gap in the
garden. It might be a bare spot in a bed of
shrubs or a vegetable patch; or perhaps
an empty pot amongst a cluster of very
attractive potted plants.
Things to know about gaps:
• A bare space can be a magnet for weeds.
Bare soil can be vulnerable to wind or
water erosion.
• If plants died in this spot there can be
remnants of the disease left in the soil (if
you replant the same type of plant, it may
be immediately attacked).
Purple Sage (Salvia officinalis Purprurea)
• A microclimate has been changed – the
bigger the plant that died, the bigger
the change. Consider a large shrub or
small tree: it may have been protecting
surrounding plants, and its departure
may leave those plants exposed to the
elements.
• Most herbs are fast-growing and
relatively hardy plants, and that makes
them ideal for filling in gaps that open
up in the garden. I plant chives to edge
veggie beds and plant herbs such as
parsley, thyme and oregano to fill in
empty spaces. Parsley, for example, will
grow quite well under smaller fruit trees
– as will chives. Thyme and oregano will
do well in dry spots or under roses.
For fast-growing, low herbs try:
Aloe Vera (Aloe barbandensis) – a
succulent with rosette leaves to 1 m
tall. Very drought-tolerant, suited to
dry, gravelly soils in full sun. Propagate
by dividing small offshoots from main
stem. It is great in pots too or for those
dry spots in the garden. It needs winter
protection from frosts.
Cat Mint (Nepeta x faassenii syn. N.
mussinii) – a tough fast-growing, sun-
loving, herbaceous perennial that is a
profusion of purple flowers throughout
spring and summer. Withstands dry
conditions – and works well under other
plants such as roses, as an edging plant
or to quickly fill gaps.  cultivars
HOME GROWN 69
Garden
Holy Flax (Santolina rosmarinifolia ssp)
available that range in height and spread
but ‘N. ‘Walkers’ Low’ is a great low-
growing variety.
Curry Bush (Helichrysum italicum syn.
H. angustifolium) – perennial to 60cm,
compact bush with small silvery, curry
flavoured foliage. Or Helichrysum italicum
subsp. microphyllum, a smaller growing
plant to 30cm tall and better variety that
is less prone to woodiness. Both are frost
and drought-tolerant. Yellow flowers
appear in summer. Grow in well-drained
soil in a sunny position. Prune straight
after flowering to promote bushiness.
Creeping Thyme (Thymus spp.) – there
are numerous species of thyme – enough
to fill an entire garden! A profusion of
bee-attracting flowers appears in early
summer and range from white to pink,
purples to magenta. Tolerates dry, sandy
or stony soils but will also grow well in
loams and clays
Orris Root (Iris pallida) – this is a very
hardy perennial rhizomatous plant, with
sword-shaped leaves to about 80cm high.
The lovely mauve-blue flowers appear in
summer. The rhizome is used as a fixative
in perfumery and also potpourri. Soils
should be well-drained and it doesn’t mind
baking sun in summer. Note: Some other
species are also called “orris root” and
used similarly.
Lavender (Lavandula spp.) – smaller
varieties such as Lavandula ‘Hidcote’
and Lavandula ‘Rosea’ are preferable.
Lavenders need full sun. All are drought-
tolerant, tough reliable plants that usually
flower in spring but hold the flowers into
summer. Prune by one third at the end
70 HOME GROWN
Golden Oregano (Origanum vulgare Aureum)
of summer. In humid climates L. dentata
often flowers best. They like alkaline soils;
so annual doses of lime can improve plants
(particularly if you are applying organic
mulches that can make soils acidic).
Oregano (Origanum vulgare) – this is the
common oregano. It has mauve flowers
in summer and grows to about 45cm.
Origanum vulgare ‘Polyphant’ (a variegated
variety with white flowers grows to only
30cm high), Golden Oregano (Origanum
vulgare var. aureum) to 45cm tall with
pale mauve flowers – best in full sun or
the plant reverts back to green if in a
more shaded position. Greek Oregano
(Origanum vulgare subsp. hirtum) is a very
spicy version with white flowers in summer
to 45cm tall. All oreganos perform best
in full sun but they do grow quite happily
in semi-shade too. Will grow in tough hot
spots on sandy, gravelly and clay soils
(but not water-logged). Prune back foliage
regularly and also after flowering. Divide
every three years or so.
Pyrethrum (Chrysanthemum
cineraifolium) – this plant has lovely
dissected foliage and grows to about
40cm high with a similar spread. It will
grow in tough dry spots in full sun, but will
still perform very well in part shade. The
daisy flowers appear in summer and these
are dried and used for insecticides.
Prostrate Rosemary (Rosmarinus spp.)
– again there are several cultivars some
growing taller than others. Rosmarinus
‘Huntington Carpet’ is an exceptional
example only growing to about 30cm high.
Rosemary plants flower in late winter
through to early spring but the foliage is a
For wet spots or damp conditions try:
Mints (e.g. Common Mint, Pennyroyal),
Chervil, Comfrey, Horseradish
(best contained), Iris, Lungwort,
Marshmallow, Solomon’s Seal, Sweet
Woodruff (Galium odoratum), Lily-of-
the-Valley, Ajuga and Valerian.
For moist semi shade try:
Angelica, Pennyroyal, Bergamot,
Mint, Iris, Foxglove, Chervil, Chives,
Orach, Skullcap, Goldenrod, Parsley,
Sweet Woodruff, Lemon Balm
and Sorrel.
For dry, semi-shade try:
Aloe Vera, Bay Laurel, Anise, Hyssop,
Lemon Verbena (grows better with
some moisture), Rosemary, and
Mexican Tarragon (shrub).
For full shade try:
Mints, Lemon Balm (can be invasive),
Sweet Cicely, Sweet Woodruff, and
Wild Ginger.
As edging plants try:
Chives (Garlic Chives are evergreen,
Onion Chives die down in winter in cool
areas), Parsley, Savory, and Thyme.
For dry, sunny, hot spots try:
Aloe Vera, Marjoram, Oregano, Thyme,
Rosemary, and Wormwood.
For spilling over garden walls or down
embankments try:
Rosemary, Thymes, and Oregano.
delight at any time of the year. Prostrate
rosemary competes well with weeds and
tends to smother them. Grows in well-
drained soils, prefers full sun but will grow
in semi-shade and under trees, and is
drought tolerant.
Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile
syn. Anthemis nobilis) – a prostrate
creeping form of chamomile that is
often used as a medicinal herb. It makes
flat, thick growth and can cover an area
quite quickly as a weed-smothering
groundcover. Flowers start in spring and
last right through summer. Cool through
to temperate climates are preferred. They
will grow on sands through to well-draining
clays, and in dry positions. Cut back
flowers to encourage a thick mat. Bergamot (Monarda Pink Lace)
Rue (Ruta graveolens) – a perennial plant
to 5 0 cm tall with attractive blue to grey-
green, lacy leaves. The cultivar ‘Jackman
Blue’ is well worth seeking out for its
stunning blue foliage. Although it prefers
moist, well-drained, slightly acid soil in a
sunny but protected position, it will also
do well during dry spells over summer and
is a lot tougher than it looks. Propagate
by seeds or by cuttings, which strike
easily. This is a lovely plant (especially the
cultivars) to fill spaces in between other
plants – which offer it wind protection.
Sage (Salvia officinalis) – also S. o.
‘Purpurascens’ – a purple leafed variety
(variegated yellow/green and tricolour
purple/green and white leafed versions are
also worth trying). Sage is woody perennial
shrub to 7 0 cm tall in ideal conditions,
though often smaller. The purple variety
tends to be slightly lower growing but is
great as a foil for plants in the perennial Roman Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile)
border, or tumbling down a wall or
embankment. Susceptible to extremes of
cold, heat, wind or moisture, it prefers full Ocimum basilicum ‘Purple Dark Opal’
sun and a well-drained but moist soil. Once
established, it can be drought-tolerant. It’s
propagated by seeds or cuttings.
Cotton Lavender (Santolina
chamaecyparissus) – a small woody
shrub growing to 6 0 cm tall with
silver-grey foliage. It is hardy and
drought-resistant, preferring sun and
good drainage but is highly adaptable,
particularly in temperate climates. It
also tolerates dry salt-infected soils.
Mulch it to insulate the roots in cold
climates. It propagates easily from
cuttings. Plants are excellent as a hedge.

HOME GROWN 71
Advertorial
Preserving Tips from Ozfarmer
Enjoy foods fresh from your garden all year round.
T
here are few things more
rewarding for the home gardener
than to assemble a meal of home
grown produce. This harvest can be
enjoyed year around by preserving, be it
via bottling, drying, salting, fermenting,
pressure canning or freezing. The beauty
of this is that not only can the season’s
surplus be preserved for other times of
the year, but also a variety of flavours
and textures can be enjoyed as a result
of the preserving process.
This secret that home gardeners have
known for years is also gaining traction
in the wider community, as people have
concerns over the additives to foods
and the increase in allergic reactions
to particular types of chemicals. If you
72 HOME GROWN
preserve it yourself, you know exactly
what has gone into the food.
One of the simplest forms of
preserving, and increasing in popularity
due to its reported health benefits, is
fermentation. Most people are familiar
with fermented lemons which add a
delicious lemon tang to all types of
dishes, aside from the famous Moroccan
Chicken with which fermented lemons
are synonymous! Other fermented foods
include probiotic yoghurt, cheese and kefir;
all great ways to preserve a milk surplus.
The best chilli sauces are a product of
fermentation and are easily made with a
chilli glut and, as many of these sauces
include tomatoes, are a great summer
preserving option. Winter vegetables such
as cabbage have long been preserved
by traditional fermentation methods in
northern Europe and many people are
starting to appreciate the delicious taste
and probiotic benefits of homemade
sauerkraut. Fermented food is very easy
to make at home and can be done at a
relatively small start-up cost, needing
at minimum a good quality preserving
jar and an airlock to allow gas to escape.
Jars can come in a range of sizes up to 5
litres, which is more than adequate for the
average family.
Many gardeners will know about the
standard method of bottling fruit and
tomatoes, which entails processing jars in
a hot water bath. This preserving method
is also now recommended even for jams,
PRESERVING Dos and Don’ts
• DO use thick, tempered glass jars
for preserving. Brands such as Weck,
Ball, Bormioli Rocco and Bell Mason
all produce suitable jars.
• DON’T reuse supermarket brand jars
which are not designed for home
preserving.
• DO check the rim of jars before using
them to make sure there are no chips
that may prevent a safe seal.
• DON’T fill cold jars with hot foods
as this can cause cracking or
breakage due to heat shock: jars can
be preheated in the dishwasher or in
hot water.
• Heating in the oven is generally
not advised. Sterilisation of jars is
not required prior to waterbath or
pressure canning as the process
sterilises everything. For fermenting
though, jars must be sterilised first.
• DO use a fresh seal for every
preserving application.
• DON’T rely on many traditional
methods such as the overflow method
or hot packing. Even jams, pickles and
chutneys should be briefly placed in a
water bath to expel airborne moulds
and enzymes.
• DO follow tested recipes for pressure
canning applications.
• DON’T be scared of using a
pressure canner to expand the range
of foods you can preserve. Modern
pressure canners have many safety
features provided they are used
according to the instructions.

pickles and chutneys to expel airborne
enzymes and fungus which can cause
spoilage of foods. This method is only
suitable for foods which are rated as acidic,
which is why it is not suitable for preserving
most vegetables, meat, poultry and fish. The
use of a pressure canner overcomes this
problem. By allowing the food to heat to
temperatures well above boiling, pressure
canners are able to kill off harmful bacteria
which thrive in low acidity environments.
This greatly expands the variety of foods
that can be preserved in jars, thus saving
valuable freezer space. For example,
many fishermen use pressure canners to
preserve surplus fish, whilst home gardeners
can use canners to preserve produce
as diverse as potatoes, carrots, corn,
pumpkin, mushrooms and beans. Pressure
canners work on the same principles as
a pressure cooker, and if used according
the manufacturer’s instructions, are a
very versatile way to preserve food. Done
correctly, food preserved in a canner can be
stored on shelves in a cool dark place for
years. (We recently opened a jar of spaghetti
Bolognese sauce we pressure canned
several years ago and it smelt and tasted as
good as it did on the day it was made.)
For longer term food preservation,
dehydrating has always been a popular
option. Dehydrated food still retains a
high percentage of the original vitamins
and nutrients in the food because the
drying is done at low temperatures that do
not degrade the food quality. This makes
dehydrated food very attractive to those
following raw food diets. Homemade beef
jerky made in a dehydrator eclipses the
store bought versions for flavour and
texture!
Ozfarmer Australia stocks a huge
range of supplies to cater to every sort of
preserving need and will happily assist you
with technical queries and advice.
Go to: ozfarmer.com or
Ph: 02 6516 1111

HOME GROWN 73
 Fermented Hot
to the table
Chilli Sauce
Brought to you by Ozfarmer
I love making hot chilli sauce with my surplus chillis. You
can add herbs and spices to the mix and experiment with
different flavours but the basic mixture is always a winner.
Use the freshest possible ingredients and use a jar with an
airlock to keep oxygen out and to allow gases to vent out
during the fermentation process.

Ingredients
• 500g fresh chillis (a mixture of types is possible)
• 2-3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
• 2 large fresh tomatoes
• 1-2 tsp sweetener such as unrefined sugar or honey,
optional
• 1 teaspoon pickling salt starter culture dissolved in 1/4 cup
water, or 1/4 cup fresh whey.

Method
Cut off the stems from the chillis, but leave the green star at the
base of the stem intact as this adds an extra subtle flavour to
your sauce. Mash all the ingredients in a food processor, or with
mortar and pestle, until everything is finely chopped.
Spoon the paste into a pint size glass jar fitted with an
airlock and allow the mixture to at room temperature for five
to seven days. Depending on how much water content you
have in your tomatoes, there may be some separation of the
mixture but this is normal.
After the sauce has fermented for about a week, place a fine-
mesh sieve over a large bowl and spoon in the fermented chilli
mixture. Using a wooden spoon, press the mixture into the sides
of the sieve so that the sauce drips from the sieve into the bowl
below. You can then pour the resulting sauce into a sterile jar
or bottle and store in the fridge. It will store in the fridge for
several months. This recipe makes one small bottle of sauce.
You can also use the mixture left in the sieve as a chilli
paste or mix it up with some vinegar and tomato paste for
a thicker sauce.

74 HOME GROWN
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HOME GROWN 75
 Shutterstock © Lili Graphie
Garden

Growing Grapes By John Mason, Gavin Cole and Adriana Fraser

Imagine a warm summer’s day sitting under the dappled light of a pergola
enshrouded with a grape vine – the grapes hanging in bunches above your head. A
glass of wine, good food, your family or friends gathered for an alfresco meal under
your prolific vine – what could be better? The grape vine is one of the most popular
fruit plants you can grow, and it’s not as difficult as you might think.

Culture
Grapes tolerate cold weather when they are
dormant (over winter) but not when they are
in leaf. At these times, late frosts can be a
problem. Their ideal climate is a warm, dry
summer and a mild to cool winter. However,
there are varieties which can be grown which
will tolerate very cold winters.
Grape vines are relatively easy to grow
if you give them what they need: sunlight,
air movement, good soil preparation
before planting, adequate water and
correct pruning.
Grapes are usually bought bare-rooted,
like roses or fruit trees, and planted in
winter. They prefer a fairly heavy, not too
acid soil (a pH of 6-6.5 is good), and a
sunny position.
Pruning
Cut the vine back hard immediately after
you plant it, and let it grow freely in its
first year. During the first winter select
the strongest shoot for training to a
trellis, pergola, post or wall and remove
all the others. Train the leading shoot
until it has reached the height at which it
is to branch, and then train two or three
horizontal branches along the trellis or
wall; or spreading from the top of the
post.
The process of establishing the
framework of the vine usually takes two
or three years. After this time, it is cut
back to the main branches every winter to
encourage strong growth that will bear the
fruit. It is usually the vines third summer
in the garden before it begins to produce a
decent crop.

76 HOME GROWN
Grape varieties
The best varieties to choose are those
that are suited to your local climatic
conditions. That said, the microclimate
in many backyards is warmer than the
prevailing conditions of the area. In a
sheltered garden you can grow more
varieties than you could in a large open
area. There is also a difference between
table grapes and wine grapes. Wine grapes
are not usually suited to the table. So, if
you want to make wine then you should
choose suitable wine grape varieties - or White grapes
you could try some of each!
Frame to protect grape vine from the cold
Popular table grape varieties for
the home gardener
• Calmeria: green, late maturing, prefers
a warm to hot climate. Tolerates rain
better than other varieties.
• Cardinal: red, early maturing, prefers a
dry and hot climate. Rampant grower.
• Concord: black, mid-late maturing, prefers
cooler areas. Good when eaten fresh.
• Flame seedless: red, round grape, very
early maturing variety from mid to late
January.
• Himrod: white seedless, early-mid
maturing, prefers cooler areas. Almost
seedless fruit.
• Muscat: black and white types, matures
mid-season, adaptable grower. E xcellent
for home gardens.
• Sultana (Thompson seedless): white, mid-
early maturing, prefers a warm and dry
climate. Seedless and excellent fresh or
Black grapes
dried.
• Waltham Cross: green, mid-maturing,
prefers a mild to warm climate. Vigorous
grower, large fruit.

Popular wine varieties

• Cabernet Sauvignon: red fruit are
small and black maturing mid-season.
It is suited to temperate, cool and
Mediterranean type climate areas.
• Chardonnay: fruit is small and white
maturing early – suited to cool,
temperate and Mediterranean type
climates.
• Colombard: fruit is mid-sized and white,
maturing mid-season. This is a white wine

HOME GROWN 77
 Pests and diseases
Grapes may be attacked by botrytis
(grey mould) if the weather is cool
Garden
and humid. This can be alleviated by
improving air circulation around plants
and pruning out dense growth. Apply
mulch around the base of plants to
keep roots warm and spray with a
fungicide if necessary.
Mildew is another possible fungal
problem which needs regular spraying
for control. In dry summer areas, mildew
is not usually a major problem, and most
varieties will grow well. In humid coastal
gardens, a mildew-resistant variety like
‘Isabella’ (better for jam than eating
fresh) is the best choice.
Birds are also fond of grapes and
so measures may have to be taken to
discourage them. Netting or hessian
bags around fruits can work well.
Tying strands of silver foil to branches
may scare off birds. Caterpillars can
attack the foliage, and these are best
removed by hand.
Harvest times
The fruit matures according to the
area you live in and also the variety
you plant. Some will mature as early
as mid-January, others in the late
summer or even autumn. When reading
plant catalogues they are usually
listed as early, mid-season, and late-
season varieties so if you want grapes
in summer you should choose early
varieties suited to your area. If you want
grapes for several months of the year
you can achieve this by planting several
varieties which mature consecutively.
White Muscat – a sweet grape

Grape new spring growth

78 HOME GROWN after heavy winter prune Grapes on a traditional trellis
90 HOME GROWN
Shutterstock © Raw Style Pictures

variety for dry white wines. It does best • Shiraz: fruit is seeded, small and black • Crush grapes and remove stems and skins
in warmer 
  anean type climates. maturing mid-season. Suited to cool, • Fermentation time is determined by
• Grenache: fruit are small black and juicy
and mature mid-season. A red wine
type best suited to warmer temperate
regions.
• Merlot: fruit is small black and seeded,
maturing mid-season. Suited to cool and
temperate and 
  anean type
regions (the taste of the wine differs
from region to region).
• Viognier: white fruit that matures
to yellow when fully ripe - maturing
early-season. It grows best in cool
the type of wine required. Sweet wine
is obtained by stopping fermentation
before all of the sugar is converted to
alcohol. Dry wine is obtained by allowing
all the sugar to be converted to alcohol.
Sparkling wine is made in several ways,

  anean type regions.
• Pinot Noir: excellent red wine variety.
Small black fruit maturing early, great for
cool areas.
• Rhine Riesling: fruit are small and
white, maturing early to mid-season.
It grows best in cool, temperate and
to temperate or 
  anean type
climates.
Making Wine
Wine is just fermented grape juice, but
making good wine is a skilled job. The
winemaker must control the process
the most natural being to bottle the wine
before fermentation is complete and to
allow fermentation to finish in the bottle.
General process for red wine
• Use only red or black grapes
• Stems may or may not be removed when

  anean type regions. carefully if he or she is not to end up grapes are crushed.
• Sangiovese: fruit is small and black with vinegar! If you like the idea of • Grapes go into the fermenting tank with
maturing mid-season. Best in a making your own wine (and the skills can their skins (and sometimes stems)

  anean type climate. be learned with practice) it would be • Wine which runs off freely is put into
• Sauvignon Blanc: fruit is small and white best to buy one of the excellent books barrels and allowed to mature for varying
maturing mid-season. It is suited to available on this subject, and follow periods
cool, temperate ad 
  anean type
climates.
• Semillon: fruit is white, small and
maturing mid-season. It grows best in
temperate regions.
the directions to the letter. Your local
Department of Agriculture can usually
offer helpful advice.
General process for white wine
• Use red or white grapes
• Skins and remaining moisture in the vat
can be pressed to retrieve further dark
and bitter wine. This can be blended with
the wine which has run off earlier to give
differing tastes. HG
HOME GROWN 79
80 HOME GROWN