Issue 32 | £5.00 ANSTO AVE Magazine Sr O7eU ns) THE NEW MASERATI SUVCr Ce TAKE A BREATH OF FRESH AIR AND DISCOVER THE GREAT OUTDOORS AT > BUONO NE Ie Oe EXPLORE - RELAX “DISCOVER a | ee ai cos = 7 ——_ ‘TRUMP TURNBERRY, AYRSHIRE, SCOTLANDGENTLEMAN “Powered By Contents: Assistant Editor: Katie-Beth Humber katie@globenewsgroup.com Editorial Team: editorial @thegentlemanmagazine.co.uk Advertising: advertsin @thegentlemanmagazine.co.uk Designed, Published & Printed By: The Gentleman Magazine Social Media: 18 | The Remarkable Story of the Atmos Clock Twitter: @The_Gentleman_M Facebook ‘The Gentleman Ms GENTLEMAN Cover: Maserati Grecale Image: Maserati 72 | $95,000,000 NFT on the MLS* 84 Turn moments into 90 -99 | For Her “Project Metaverse’ memories the Gentleman Magarine 202. Te opinions expressed in The Gentleman Magarin are Not necesariy thos ofthe editor or publisher. We an not accept any repens for ee, os or date to any trl sliced or no sent The Gentleman Magazine We dot scep responsi fr incurred by eaders ares af flowing advice contained in artes in The Gellman Magaine The Gentleman Magazin wl ot be hel pons sppearanceof pho Material inthis Ma raphic material supplied without then 3 copyright and / or photographers details ‘be reproduced in any form without permission ‘The Gentleman Magazine | 0304 | The Gentleman Maj rowered by ##* BlackBerry , Securing the Internet of Things”3 5PLAYING WITH PERSPECTIVE 5557-MARINE HORA MUNDI a click. The Hora Mundi became an instant hit at the time of its launch, This mechanical watch, wh three years had taken o develop and been awarded four patents, featured in the shape of an instant-change dual-time th memory function, a critical display. sat is accomplished via the pusher and crown, ofthe th need only set the atch mechanism then calculates the time and d: of cams, hammers hat point, simply pressing the pusher is en¢ from one end of the planet to the other, all without disturbing the accurate running of the watch. 10 | The Gentleman Magazine “Po he impression of a permanent waltz of the ‘This effect may also be due to the way in which th are depicted: an additional plate made of sapphire of the metallised meridian horizontal satin brushing, while their coastlines are subtly outlined with a metallic turquoise border. Finally, an outer flange serves as a support for th the dial ‘ontinents composed, the continents are treated to jous elements present on 1g the Internet of Things”‘The result features brilliantly crafted dimensions and surfaces thanks to various treatments requiring several weeks of work. ‘The importance of details Making the dial legible while endowing each indication with a special aesthetic: for Breguet, luxury resides in the details — which is notably why the hours and minutes hands as well as the hour-markers are adorned with luminescent material ensuring nocturnal legibility ‘The Sun and Moon positioned at 4 oelock are hand-hammered to create a strongly realistic result, While the sun is a luminous rose gold, the moon is rhodium-plated andes ‘grey appearance. Displayed through a 12 clock aperture, the date features an additional retrograde hand ingeniously placed beneath the aperture dial and featuring a delicately rounded 'U-shaped” tip serving to encircle the date of each passing day. ides mysterious The subtle finish referred to as brouillage is an watchmaking decoration that has been updated and creates a matt yet shiny effect. It also facilitates reading while remaining discreet ‘The cities corresponding to the different time zones are indicated at 6 oclock. A metallised anchor appearing above the window serves to determine the place whose current time you wish to consult 08 | The Gentleman Magazine “Powered by A unique movement The 43.9 mm-diameter case, available in a choice of white or rose gold, houses Calibre 77F1 whose balance oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz. This mechanical self-winding movement is fitted with an escapement made of silicon ~ a material with multiple properties that is resistant to both corrosion and wear. tisalso insensitive to the effects of magnetic fields, Calibre 77F1 features a unique asset in the form of its patented additional modules for the dual time-zone mechanism, the second time-zone display, the programmable and reprogrammable mechanical memory wheel and the pointer-type day/night display. Part of this exceptional mechanism with its 55-hour power reserve can be admired through the sapphire caseback, clegantly adorned with Cotes de Geneve, guilloché and nailed finishing. w Marine Hora Mundi is rubber strap or a gold Ready to travel the world, the n available with either a leather strap, bracelet, Breguet and the Navy Recognised as an outstanding scientist and technician, Abraham-Louis Breguet linked his destiny to that of the French Navy in 1814 when he became a member of the Bureau. des Longitudes by royal decree, alongside academics such as Delambre, Biot and Laplace. One of the bureau's roles was to solve astronomical problems related to the determination of longitude at sea. It was however one year later that King Louis XVIII awarded Breguet one of the most honourable titles of the era: that of Watchmaker to the Royal Navy. The fleets of the ‘greatest explorers sailed equipped with a Breguet timekeeping system. Today, the Marine line with its elegant yet sporty look is one of the brands emblematic collections. BlackBerry , Securing the Internet of Things”3 5‘As part of its HUBLOT Xplorations programme, the Swiss ‘watch manufacturer has signed a new partnership with the Polar Pod expedition, The brainchild of the French explorer and environmentalist Jean-Louis Etienne - the first man to have reached the North Pole alone - this zero-emission ship will be tasked with exploring the waters of the ‘Furious Fifties? This name was given to this area ofthe Southern Ocean in reference to the high winds and rough seas that are usual here. In order to withstand the sea in all weathers, the Polar Pod is a vertical vessel 100 metres high (with a draught of 80 metres) stabilised by 150 tonnes of ballast. Without an engine, it will drift with the Antarctic circumpolar current and will be powered by the energy of six wind turbines The Southern Ocean, the fourth largest ocean by surface area, captures 50% of the carbon dioxide absorbed by all the world’s ‘oceans, making ita major player forthe climate. Connecting the Indian, Pacific and Atlantic oceans, its waters form a gigantic reservoir of marine biodiversity. However, scientists are sorely lacking in measurements and observations in this part of the world. The Polar Pod will be fitted with highly powerful instruments, making it possible to collect a continuous stream, of precious date on biodiversity, current dynamics, the impact of human pollution and the atmosphere-ocean interactions which control the climate, This data will be made available to the international scientific community. The research, coordinated by the CNRS (the French National Cente for Scientific Research) in partnership with the CNES (the French National Centre for Space Studies) and Iiremer (the French National Institut for Ocean Seience), will include contributions from scientists from 43 institutions and universities in 12 countries. In addition, school pupils will beable to follow the adventure through videos and exhibitions. ‘The construction of the Polar Pod will start in June 2022, with a launch date of late 2023. The expedition will then span three years until 2026, with the changeover of the eight crew members taking place every two months. ‘This project fits perfectly into Hublot’s Xplorations programme, which now has three pillars: Space, with the design of components for the Space X Exomars Martian robot; Earth, through supporting Sorai, the charity to protect, rhinoceroses and other endangered animal species: and the Sea, with Anticythére and now Jean-Louis Etienne and the Polar Pod expedition, a project in which Hublot intends to get fully involved. This partnership strengthens Hublot’s corporate social responsibility profile while respecting its maritime heritage, marking a natural return to the brand’ roots. Today, Hublot is proud to support research through a human, scientific and societal project. Hublot has also set itself the objective of going behind the scenes to create videos about all the preparations for this Expedition and the visionary work of Jean-Louis Etienne in order to spread the word to as many people as possible and to give it a worldwide reach through both traditional and social media. “To dare is to push one’ imagination beyond certainties and known limits; itis also about creating opportunities to | and share with those who dare with you. And Hublot dates. Soon, in the shipyard, Polar Pod will take shape before heading ‘ff to discover the huge expanses of the Southern Ocean. Sharing technical information, technological research and with Hublot’ assistance, generating media visibility will contribute to the expedition’s success. The data and observations will be made available to the entire international scientific community.” - JEAN-LOUIS ETIENNE, EXPLORER Life on Earth started in the oceans, yet they still have so much to teach us. By joining Jean-Louis Etienne’ Polar Pod project, Hublot wished to contribute to our understanding of our planet, the starting point for making the right decisions forall ‘of our futures. With this project, we are also returning to our maritime roots, which is the source of our very name, Hublot” - RICARDO GUADALUPE, HUBLOT CEO ‘The Gentleman Magazine | 11A CONTEMPORARY AESTHETIC FOR GENEVA’S GRAND 18TH CENTURY WATCHMAKING TRADITIONClassically inspired with its round case featuring a fluted back, its railway minute-track and its Dauphine-type hands, the ‘Traditionnelle complete calendar openface model adopts an avant-garde profile with these two distinctive versions. The ‘openworked sapphire dal reveals Calibre 2460 QCL/2, whose mainplate and bridges are highlighted by anthracite NAC treatment. The triple calendar display, complemented by a precision moon phase, gains in depth through its functional and contemporary style. Revisiting the ine historical traditions of Geneva watchmaking Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle collection, which perpetuates the spirit of Geneva's watchmakers during the ‘Age of Enlightenment, adopts a highly sophisticated style with. two new models equipped with a complete calendar. Framed by a 41 mm case in 18K white gold or 18K SN pink gold, they appear in an openface version with a sapphire dial. This transparency brings out the details of Calibre 2460 QCLI2, which adopts a contrasting anthracite grey colour achieved. by NAC galvanic surface treatment. This new interpretation combining contemporary design and watchmaking heritage, is. reminiscent ofthe Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar ‘model presented in 2019, Airy construction ‘The characteristic features of the Traditionnelle collection ~ including the stepped round case and lugs, the fluted caseback, the slim bezel, the railway minute-track, the bisfacetted Dauphine-type hands and the gold baton-style hour-markers ~ embed these two models firmly in the watchmaking heritage of the Maison. The opening onto the movement structure ~ perfectly visible on both sides of the watch and featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC treatment - highlights its mechanical power. Surrounded by a slate grey opaline flange on which a central hand points to the date, the upper part of the sapphire crystal dial features a likewise slate grey guilloché segment as well as applied gold hour-markers. The resulting three-part dial overlooks the sapphire discs providing an aperture-type display of the days and months. The moon phase disc, with its two realistic transferred depictions of Earths satellite is also covered by a translucent sapphire mask. ‘This airy construction provides a chance to admire the various movement components, including the bridges and mainplate featuring an original vertical upright finish on the front ‘The “openface” design highlights the technical nature of the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface watch. This complication, also known as the triple calendar, indicates the date, day and month, complemented on these models by a ‘moon phase. Calibre 2460 QCL/2, Beating atthe heart ofthese two new timepieces is Calibre 2460 QCL/2 with its 312 components. This calibre is an evolution ‘of the 2450, the first self-winding movement entirely designed and developed by Vacheron Constantin. Equipped with a stop. seconds mechanism, it beats ata rate of 28,800 vibrations per hourand is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve. In addition to its triple calendar indications, it provides a precision moon phase display requiring only one correction every 122 years. The caseback reveals all the finishes one would expect from an Haute Horlogerie movement, with a circular-grained mainplate, chamfered bridges and Cotes de Geneve motif. Water-resistant to 30 metres, these two Traditionnelle complete calendar openface models are fitted with a calfskin-lined grey alligator strap secured by a pink or white gold pin buckle. ‘The Gentleman Magazine | 13BREITLING X TRIUMPH Meet the Top Time watches and Speed Twin motorcycle behind a spectacular new collaboration inspired by 1960s café racer culture In the mid-1960s, auto racing was having a heyday, and a whole subculture had sprung up around “café racers.” stylish motorcycles, used to literally transport their riders from hip café to hip café Willy Breitin -apture the speed-driven style of the day with a completely new take on the timekeeper. The result? The Breitling Top Time, an unconventional chronograph designed for “young and active professionals?” It quickly became the watch of choice for a sporty in-crowd of men and ‘women equally drawn to the watch’ bold proportions. ‘Today, that freewheeling 1960s café-racer spirit is back in a spectacular new ‘Top Time collaboration between Breitling and British motorcycle brand Triumph, Now in its 120th year. Triumph combines historic craftsmanship with contemporary design to creat its classic motorcycles Triumphs heritage and modern-retro aesthetic are just two of the many things we have in common,’ said Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling, “Their blending of tradition with technology is completely in sync with what we do” For their debut collaboration, Breitling is producing a Top Time Triumph watch with a distinctive brushed finish in the bow-tie motif nicknamed “the Zorro dial” by Top Time collectors 14| The Gentleman M: ng the Internet of ThitTriumph, meanwhile, is launching 270 co-branded motoreycles—the Speed Twin Breitling Limited Edition— ‘whose buyers will have the privileged opportunity to purchase a special owner’ version of the Top Time Triumph, this ‘one with a sunray dial and engraved caseback featuring the individual number of the bike (owner’s version orders must be placed with Triumph by August 22, 2022), ‘The stars of both watches are their ice-blue dials, This unique color has two major references: a blue Triumph Thunderbird 6T from 1951, and a rare, blue-dialed Breitling Top Time Ref 815 from the 1970s, Features include a subdued racing-themed calfskin leather strap that lets the hero dial shine; Breitling and ‘Triumph logos that sit subtly at 12 and 6 oclock; oversized mushroom pushers that allow for easy control of the chronogeaphis stop: start and reset functions; and a highcontrast tachymeter scale that provides clear legibility of speed readings. The watches are powered by the Breitling Caliber 2: chronometer with a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. certifi And one more cool feature collectors will love: the casebacks are etched with a detailed design sketch of Triumphs parallel twin engine, | 7 rary - ay Of the co-branded watches, Triumph CEO Nick Bloor said: “This collaboration is born out of @ shared philosophy of bold and original design. ‘The Top Time Triumph brings that "uncompromising style and craftsmanship together” At a 41 mm diameter, the Top Time Triumph is, like the original, a fit for both sexes. For fans of the Triumph brand and prospective owners of the Speed Twin Breitling Limited Edition motorcycle its an absolute must-have ‘The Gentleman Magazine | 15RUNNING ON AIR: ,! THE REMARKABLE STORY OF THE ATMOS CLOCKFrom the moment it first Jock has been an obje: saw the light of day in 19: of fascination, the beau mechanism more than equalled by its apparently magical way of working. Mankind has long been fascinated by the idea of perpetual motion machines - devices that work autonomously and forever, with no external source of energy But nobody has ever succeeded in making one, for the simple > the laws of phy’ ltr is able to produce a device th etual operation than any other mechanism lock. reason that, accordi it is impossi However, Jaeger-Le Running on Air 8, Reutter, a Neuchatel-born ra ow kn In 19 introduced a prototype clock ~ 18 |The Gentleman Magazine "Powered by to defy the laws of physics: with no need for batteries, ald operate for centur -xternal intervention, or routine rewinding, i wearing out or requiring any The mechanical principle behind the Atmos is simple, albeit extremely difficult to execute: the energy required to drive the clock is supplied by normal, everyday fluctuations in air temperature, Thermal energy is transformed into mechanical y, which drives the movement of the balance. The as-filled capsule, which g by a membrane. ‘the secret lies in a hermetically sealed, is connected to the clock’ drive spt slightest temperature variation ch causing the membrane to expand and contract like the change of just one degree C hours. ges the volume of the gas, ‘breathing’ ellows of an accordion ~ thus winding the spring, A celsius can power the clock for 48 ring the Internet of ThiiBecause this remarkable system produces only a small amount of energy, the movement must consume as little as possible; indeed, its consumption is so slight that the energy used by a single 15-watt incandescent light bulb is equal to that of 60 million Atmos locks. The mechanism usesa torsion pendulum, to keep time and the balance is a circle of metal, suspended from a thin wire made of Elinvar, a nickel-based alloy. Because this annular balance takes one minute to complete a full ‘oscillation, it requires just one-fortieth of the energy needed for a typical wristwatch From Prototype to Prized Object In 1930, two years after Reutter had unveiled his prototype, the first examples of Atmos I went on sale but it was fraught with technical problems and commercialisation and production quickly faltered « YC Chancing upon an Atmos in a Paris boutique, Jacques-David LeCoultre was fascinated by its unique mode of operating and bought it. He quickly realised that, despite the brilliance of Reutter’s concept, the mechanism was not viable, with problems that, he believed, could be solved only through an exceptional level of watchmaking skill, The Manufacture contacted Reutter who was immediately enthused and came to work in Le Sentier under the management of Jacques-David LeCoultre on the “new Atmos” project. While continuing to sell an upgraded version of Atmos I both men had a clear intention to further improve the mechanism and fully commercialise its production. ‘The Gentleman Magazine | 19NY AYV\\\' k veEssential improvements included: enhancing the air-tightness necessary for proper functioning of the movement; replacing the mercury used by Reutter with the more stable ethyl chloride; and entirely redesigning key components of the mechanism to make it simpler, more robust and properly suited to series production. At last, in 1939, Jaeger-LeCoultre was sufficiently satisfied with the new Calibre 519 and ready to begin commercialisation of Atmos IL Success came quickly and the Atmos soon gained the status Of prized cult object: in 1950, it was chosen as the official gift of the Swiss Confederation. By 1951, production had reached 10,000 units a year and in 1979 the $00,000th clock left the Manufacture in L tier. Even so, the Atmos mechanism had a limitation: because it produces only a very small amount of energy, there is not enough power left over to drive additional functions. Jaeger LeCoultre solved this problem in 1982 with a new movement ~ Calibre 540 ~ that made it possible to incorporate additional functions with only an infinitesimal increase in energy consumption, ‘The Manufacture’ engineers developed the first moon-phase Atmos at the end of the 1990s and have since added other complications: celestial charts, regulator dials, equation-of-time displays, even a ‘mystery clock’ with a remontoir dégalité,or constant-force mechanism, Evolution of a Classic Design More than just a remarkable technical fea, the Atmos is a work of art. The original Atmos I, with its ‘glass dome’ cabinet is an carly and exceptionally pure expression of Stre c and is highly coveted by collectors today. The timeless Art Deco lines and perfect balance of the rectilinear design of the Atmos II cabinets have ensured the status of this ‘glass box’ as the classic form, A perfect marriage of functionality and aesthetic identity of the Atmos through many decades of evolution, mline Moderne style, it has anchored the stron; The cabinet of the Atmos has lent itself naturally to different artistic interpretations. Since the 1970s, Jaeger-LeCoultre has collaborated with a series of talented designers and specialised crafismen to produce special editions of the Atmos, notably those that incorporate astronomical complications. Among some outstanding examples are the futuristic Atmos du Millénaire Atlantis, created in 1999 to celebrate the new millennium and based on a unique model conceived by the Parisian design agency Kohler & Rekow in 1988; the Atmos 566 by Marc Newson, encased in a cube of hand-made Baccarat crystal, within which the mechanism appears to float weightlessly; and the sumptuous Atmos Marqueterie ‘Le Baiser’ of 2012, enclosed in a cabinet of rare woods with an exquisitely detailed wood marquetry rendition of Gustav Klimt’s painting “The Kiss: Age-old decorative arts such as wood marquetry, as well as straw marquetry, enamelling, gem: setting and various crystal-making techniques, have been applied to the Atmos with the same artistic imagination and meticulous craftsmanship that La Grande Maison devotes to its finest wristwatches, All Atmos movements are entirely developed, produced and assembled within the Manufacture and by hand in a specialised Atmos atelier. Not counting the five weeks of trial and adjustment that every Atmos mechanism undergoes, it can take eight to ten months to produce a single clock More than nine decades after its invention the Atmos clock remains a unique and emotionally resonant keeper of time - a splendid homage to design, technical virtuosity and tradition that captivates with the beauty ofits form, the serene movement ofits balance wheel and the mystery of its workings. In 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre will pay homage to the Atmos at Homo Faber European craftsmanship through 15 exhibitions that showcase exceptional master artisans, Chosen for its outstanding savoir faire in watchmaking, Jaeger-LeCoultre will feature in the Genealogies of Ornament exhibition, celebrating the intricate craft skills and accumulated expertise of its artisans in both watchmaking and the decorative arts. The Atmos, a timepiece and an objet dart in equal measure, is recognized around the world as a symbol of Swiss craftsmanship and ingenuity. Homo Faber will take place from 10 April to 1 May, on the island of S.Giorgio Maggiore in Venice. an extraordinary event that honours the best of ‘The Gentleman Magazine | 21A NEW CODE 11.59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET PERPETUAL CALENDAR IN WHITE GOLD SHIMMERING BLUEdropped in cooling molten glass, c sparkl bla gives it its biue colot ating a combination of iginclusions. Today, the glassis obtained by introducing k copper oxide and cobalt into the molten glass, which Then ‘engraving and applied on a thin aventurine disc. 100n phase at 6 oclock has bee reproduced through laser The day numbe: 1d week day respectively located at 3 and 9 veloc, as well as the month indication at 12 oeclock are also presented on aventurine subdials. For t cir part, the week ue umbers have been transferred onto the correspondi lacquered inner bezel. The white gold hour-markers and hands add a subtle contrast, while recalling the colour of the case and The double curved sapphire crystal that seamlessly integrates the extra-thin bezel’ curvature completes the watchs overall design, while providing a unique visual effect onto the dial REFINED WHITE GOLD ARCHITECTURE This new 18-carat white gold version complements. the perpetual calendar model crafted in 18-carat pink; in 2019 for the launch of the collection. The white gold extra thin bezel, stylised lugs, octagonal case middle as well as round caseback provide an clegant contrast with the blue aventurine dial. The alternation of satin-brushing and polished chamfers the different components add an interesting play of light, while accentuatin 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection. adornin the complex architecture of the Code Conceived with both women and men in mind, thiscomplicated wristwatch will sit comfortably on all wrists thanks to the 41 mm case’ ergonomic curvature. A. CONTEMPORARY TEXTURED STRAP The timepiece is fitted with a dark blue rubber-coated calfskin strap finished with a textured motif, giving a highly contemporary look to this classic complication, The straight ration of the strap in the continuity of the lugs, which have been welded to the extra-thin bezel, further reveals the refined hand-finishing techniques adorning the case, HIGH-END PERPETUAL CALENDAR This timepiece houses the Manufactures selfwinding perpetual calendar movement, Calibre 5134, fitted with the collection’s dedicated 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight Calibre 5134 automatically takes into account the number of days in the month and correctly displays the prevailing date even in leap years. Assuming the watch is kept regularly sire manual correction until 2100, at which point it will require adjustment in order to stay inline wound, the date will not re with the Gregorian calendar as been finished with refined decorations microbead-blasting, satin-brushing and polished chamfers, all visible The movement including “Cote de Genéve? finishin, through the sapphire caseback. A LEGACY OF CALENDAR WATCHES Astronomical watches are deeply rooted in the Vallée de Joux’s watchmaking history, as watchmakers have always drawn inspiration from the region’ clear night sky. Audemars Pi uninterrupted history of astronomical complications started , both with the two founders’ school pocket watch masterpiec: completed around 1875, The Gentleman Magazine | 23‘The one of Jules Louis Audemars (Audemars Piguet Heritage Collection, Inv, 8), which combined a perpetual calendar with a quarter repeater mechanism and the rare independent deadbeat second function, saw several evolutions at the company’s workbenches over the following twent during the company’ first two decades, calendar complications accounted for less than 10% of its total production, rears. Yet, Audemars Piguet’ first full calendar wristwatch was put into. production in 1921 and sold three years later to the renowned retailer Gbelin, From 1921 to 1970, 188 full calendar ‘wristwatches were produced ~ a small part of the Manufacture total production during these years. In 1955, the company released the world’ first perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indication, 9 examples of which were created between 1955 and 1957, The brand broke another record in 1978 at the height of the quartz crisis when it released the world’s thinnest selfwinding perpetual calendar wristwatch ofits time. Conceived in secret by three devoted watchmakers, the ground-breaking perpetual calendar wristwatch achieved its extra-thinness (3.95 mm) by using the ultra-thin Calibre 2120, launched in 1967, as a base, A total of 7,219 perpetual calendar wristwatches fitted with this calibre were put into production in the following 15 years, The success of Calibre 2120/2800 ushered in a new era of growth for Audemars Piguet and paved the way for the revival ‘of classical complications. 24 | The Gentleman Magazine “Powered by Launched in 2015, Calibre 5134 adapted the perpetual calendar movement to a larger Royal Oak 41 mm case diameter (Model 26574), while retaining a thin profile with its 4.31 mm in thickness, This calibre has powered many perpetual calendar wristwatches across the Manufacture’ collection ever since, including the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet since 2019. In 2018, the Manufacture opened yet another chapter in its history of perpetual calendar timepieces with the advent of the revolutionary 41 mm Royal Oak Seliwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, known as RD#2 - the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch upon release, This 6.3mm-thick watch houses Calibre 5133, a newly engineered ultra-thin movement measuring a mere 2.89 mm in height, heralding yet another generation of astronomical watches. AUDEMARS PIGUET BlackBerry , Securing the Internet of Things”COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA BORN TO RACE Rolex is presenting three exclusive versions of its Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, the benchmark for those with a passion for driving and speed. All three feature a dial made from metallic meteorite ~ a rare natural material from outer space ~ with black chronograph counters at 3,6 and 9 vilock, The version in 18 ct white gold is fitted with a monobloc Cerachrom bezel in black ceramic with a tachymetrie scale, and an Oysterflex bracelet. ‘The other two watches, one in 18 ct yellow gold and the other in 18 ct Everose gold, havea metal zel with a tachymetric scale and are on an Oyster bracelet. A aph Daytona since its launch, the iconic tachymetric scale is moulded into the first watch’ Cerachrom bezel and engraved on the metal bezels of the other two versions. The new versions of the Cosmograph Daytona are equipped ‘with calibre 4130, a movement atthe forefront of watchmaking technology Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, ‘hich ensures excellent performance on the wrist. 26 | The Gentleman Magazine “Powered by SYNONYMOUS WITH SPEED Launched in 1963, the Cosmograph Daytona was designed to meet the needs of professional racing drivers. Fitted with a tachymetrie bezel and a high-performance mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, this now legendary chronograph is the instrument of choice Is and determining average speeds, for measuring time inter The Cosmograph Daytona is an icon forever joined in name and funetion to the world of motor sport. More th after its creation it remains in a class of its own among sport chronograph, ETEORITE DIALS With its origins in the far reaches of the solar system, the material which adorns the dial of these new Cosmograph Daytona watches ~ metallic meteorite ~ comes from an asteroid that exploded millions of years ago. On the voyage between planets, fragments of this natural extraterrestrial material, primarily composed of iron and nickel, cool by a few degrees Celsius every million years, creating unique, distinctive crystallization within the material that is impossible to recreate ‘on Earth, Metallic meteorite is rare and challenging to work with, but once it is cut into thin sections and a chemical treatment is applied, the great beauty of its interwoven internal led. ‘These fascinating and varied formations are known as Widmanstatten patterns, BlackBerry , Securing the Internet of Things”For its dials, Rolex works with leading experts in the field and selects only the sections of meteorite with a particularly well- formed surface rich in different shapes and reflections. HIGH-TECHNOLOGY CERAMIC Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics for creating monobloc bezels and bezel inserts. Not only are these materials virtually scratchproof, their colours are also ofa rare intensity and are resistant to environmental effects. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode, Rolex has developed exclusive expertise and innovative manufacturing methods that grant it complete independence in the production of these ceramic components. ‘The new 18 ct white gold Cosmograph Daytona features a monobloc Cerachrom bezel in black ceramic with a tachymetric scale. ‘The moulded, recessed graduations, numerals and inscriptions are coated with platinum via PVD. (Physical Vapour Deposition) ‘THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS ‘A paragon of robustness and reliability, the Cosmograph Daytona 40 mm Oyster case is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). Its middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct white, yellow or Everose gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed. down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The winding crown, fitted with the ‘Triplock triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case, along with the chronograph pushers. The crystal is made of virtually seratchproof sapphire. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the watchs movement. PERPETUAL CALIBRE 4130 ‘The new versions of the Cosmograph Daytona are equipped with calibre 4130, a self-winding mechanical chronograph. movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2000 and introduced on the model the same year. A consummate demonstration of technology, it incorporates a chronograph function with a reduced number ‘of components, thereby enhancing the movement’ reliability, It is engaged by a robust mechanism with a column wheel and vertical clutch, allowing an instantaneous and extremely precise start. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The blue Perachrom hairspring is ‘equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre's regularity inany position. Calibre 4130 is equipped with a selfvinding module via a Perpetual rotor and offers a power reserve of approximately 72, hours. OYSTERFLEX AND OYSTER BRACELETS ‘The new 18 ct white gold Cosmograph Daytona is fitted ‘with an Oysterflex bracelet, which singularly combines the robustness and reliability ofa metal bracelet with the flexibility, comfort and aesthetics of an elastomer strap. Developed and patented by Rolex, this innovative bracelet is made up of flexible metal blades manufactured from a titanium and nickel alloy. The blades are overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer, a material that is particularly resistant to environmental effects and very durable, For enhanced comfort, the inside ofthe Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with longitudinal cushions. “The new 18 ct yellow gold and 18 ct Everose gold ver of the Cosmograph Daytona are equipped with an Oyster bracelet. Developed at the end of the 1930s, this three-piece link bracelet is known for its robustness. ‘The Oysterflex and Oyster bracelets on the Cosmograph Daytona feature the Rolex-designed and -patented Oysterlock safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening, They are also ‘equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand, which allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm for additional comfort in any circumstance. ‘On the 18 ct Everose gold version of the watch, the Oyster bracelet includes ceramic inserts inside the links to enhance its flexibility and longevity. In addition, a concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case, ‘SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand's workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria. These certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after «easing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performanceon the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofiness and self-winding, The precision of a Rolex Superlative ‘Chronometer is of the order of ~2 /+2 seconds per day ~ the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute(COSC) for official certification ofthe movement alone. ‘The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.28 | The Gentleman Mag‘The Gentleman MALL-ELECTRIC ROLLS-ROYCE SPECTRE CONCLUDES WINTER TESTING 55KM FROM ARCTIC CIRCLE “The announcement ofevery new Rolls-Royce motor car carries great weight of expectation, but Spectre is unquestionably the most anticipated product in the marques modern history. This is because itis much more than a product. Itis a symbol for our bright, bold electric future, and it represents a seismic shift in ‘our powertrain technology. Itis for this reason that we have created a testing programme that is as significant and historical as Spectre itself. The extraordinary undertaking of educating Spectre to think and. behave like a Rolls-Royce will cover 2.5 million kilometres, which is a simulation of more than 400 years of use for a Rolls-Royce. Today, I can confirm that 25% of this journey is now complete, and the results have met our most ambitious expectations” Torsten Milller-Otvis, Chief Executive Officer, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars “Refining the all-electric drivetrain that underpins Spectre challenges the very definition of engineering, The departure from internal combustion engines allows us to significantly increase the processing power of our individual components and create a Decentralised Intelligence. We refer to this Unprecedented era, where we benefit from a multi-control, multi-channel and highly interconnected electronic and electric powertrain architecture, as ‘Rolls-Royce 3.0 “Our tasks to teach each component and system how to think, behave and communicate like a Rolls-Royce, which sees much, of the engineering pivot from workshops into the digital space. Here in Arjeplog we have built a significant foundation on which we will create a true Rolls-Royce. 30 | The Gentleman Magazine “Powered by ‘This is a big step forward for our brand, but also for electrification ~ even though Spectre isin its infancy, I can confirm thatthe technology is able to contain the Rolls-Royce experience” Mibiar Ayoubi, Director of Engineering, Rolls Royce Motor Cars ROLLS-ROYCE SPECTRE: BACKGROUND In September 2021, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars made an historical announcement that it would launch its most important product since 4th May 1904, when the marque’ founders Charles Rolls and Sir Henry Royce agreed that they would create “the best car in the world’, The Rolls-Royce Spectre While Rolls-Royce has built a reputation for creating what are rogularly described as “the best carsin the world” using internal combustion engines, the idea of electrification is something that is familiar to the brand, Henry Royce began life as an clectrical engineer and dedicated much of his life to creating internal combustion engines that simulated the characteristics of an electric car ~ silent running, instant torque, and the sensation of one endless gear. Yet, the connection with the marque’ founders is far deeper When Charles Rolls drove a 1900 electric car named the Columbia, he made a prophecy: “The electric car is perfectly noiseless and clean, There is no smell or vibration. They should become very useful when fixed charging stations can be arranged”, Spectre is the fulfilment of this prophecy. BlackBerry , Securing the Internet of Things”Spectre also represents a promise kept. In 2011, Rolls-Royce showcased a fully electric Experimental Phantom concept named 102EX. This was followed by 103EX, a dramatic design study that anticipated a bold electric future for the marque. These experimental cars prompted significant interest from Rolls-Royce clients. They felt that the characteristics of an electric powertrain would fit perfectly with the brand. Rolls-Royce Chief Executive Officer, Torsten Miller-Otvés, responded to this with an unambiguous promise: Rolls-Royce will go electric, starting this decade. In September 2021, Charles Rolls’ prophecy and Torsten Mialler-Otvés’ promise led to an historical moment. Rolls Royce confirmed that it had commenced testing of the first all-electric Rolls-Royce in history, Spectre. This extraordinary undertaking would be the most demanding testing program ever conceived by Rolls-Royce and would span 2.5 million kilometres, simulating more than 400 years of use for a Rolls Royee, on average. ROLLS-ROYCE SPI RE: WINTER TESTING ‘A new Rolls-Royce motor car always begins its life in winter. ‘Temperatures at the Bespoke facility used by the marque, located in Arjeplog, Sweden, just 55km from the arctic circle, drop to -26 degrees centigrade and are further cooled to -40 degrees centigrade, ‘There are several reasons for subjecting the marque’s products, to such extremes. When the frst prototypes are built, engineers perform very basic tests in extreme conditions to ensure that each system is operational and functions at a basic level in a cold weather environment. This test is combined with the beginnings of the refinement process ~ the fist ‘lessons’ in a finishing school that will form the foundations of a motor car worthy of the marque. ‘This begins with processes that are common to the automotive industry such as noise, vibration and harshness tests. The variables that affect this are manifold, spanning from the materials selected for major hardware components to the density of the door rubbers, bushing compounds, fastening ‘materials and even properties of bonding agents. ‘The performance of these variables can change considerably when. subjected to extreme temperatures ~ likewise the efficiency of the motor car’ heating, ventilation, air conditioning and cooling systems. ‘Asa true luxury brand, there is an additional component of ‘winter testing that is of great importance to Rolls-Royce. This, is defined by the marque’s engineers as ‘de-escalated time, which enables incredible accuracy and control in creating the Rolls-Royce experience using Spectres chassis control systems, powertrain management and electronics control. By driving on low traction surfaces such as snow and ice and wilfully destabilising Spectre, the engineers can create dynamic circumstances at low speeds that would ordinarily ‘occur at high speeds. This can be reviewed and guided in situ and in slow motion, in doing so parametrising and finessing cold-weather vehicle performance in areas such as handling, controllability, stability, predictability and the ‘waftablity’ that defines the Rolls-Royce experience De-escalated time enables engineers to create unparalleled