ETHICAL IMPLICATIONS OF FAST FASHION INDUSTRY ON HUMAN RIGHTS;

A PERCEPTION

Case Study

In Partial Fulfilment of the Requirements in Ethics

By:

Acera, Cristel

Altiveros, Ma. Clarita B.

Antic, Haidee Racquel A.

Soliman, Micholai Joaquin

Tabo, Pamela Marie

Submitted to:
Prof. Jalaine Joyce V. Malabanan
Ethics Adviser

July 2022
 Introduction

The concept of "fast fashion" has spread across the entire world. Globalization

and technological advancements have had a profound impact on the fashion business

in recent years. Customers have come to anticipate that inexpensive, yet fashionable

clothing will be readily available every other week due to the short shelf life of clothing. It

is low-priced but stylish in clothing that moves quickly from design to retail stores to

meet trends, with new collections being introduced continuously, which is accessible

and affordable for everyone. The cost of clothing should not be prohibitively expensive;

however, this must be balanced against the impact on other people. However, the

culture of fast fashion has led to the unsustainable practice of producing new fashions

every other week. This practice cannot be sustained.

Buying cheap comes at a high cost, fast fashion works on exploitative labor

conditions and is destroying the environment. People’s connection with clothing has

undergone a significant transition over the previous few centuries as the world has

evolved. From a time when clothes were produced specifically for each individual, to a

time when they were ready-to-wear and had standard sizes, to the current fast-fashion

age. There is no comparison between the fashion industry today and the past, and not

every change is positive. The expense of cheap fashion is carried by the workers who

are underpaid, overworked, exposed to hazardous working conditions, and whose

products drop in quality. The fashion industry overseas is abusing a lot of people,

including children. Many of the international laws put in place to protect businesses also

harm these laborers.

 Workers in developing nations are actively exploited by the fast fashion industry.

The textile industry, particularly in other countries, is characterized by low pay,

hazardous working conditions, and long hours. Large companies in developed countries

outsource their production to smaller developing countries to take advantage of cheap

labor and lack of regulations. According to Sherman (2016), The Clean Clothes

Campaign (2020) reports that 93% of brands are not paying workers a living wage. The

minimum wage in the fast fashion industry is known to be between half and a fifth of a

living wage. In order for fast fashion brands and retailers to push for lower production

costs to increase their profit margins and meet customer demand, manufacturers keep

wages unlivable and working conditions terrible, which poses a potential danger and is

inhumane to the workers.

The use of child labor, requiring employees to handle hazardous chemicals,

underpaying them for working long hours without a break, and other forms of worker

exploitation have all been cited as examples of how fast fashion companies abuse their

employees. More than 1,100 people who worked in the garment industry were killed and

more than 2,500 people were injured when a building in Bangladesh collapsed in 2013

as a result of a structural flaw that could have been avoided. The tragedy at Rana Plaza

was the deadliest accident at a garment factory in the history of accidents.

The purpose of this investigation is to explore the perception of people,

particularly the fashion enthusiasts, about fast fashion industry. In this paper, the

researchers investigate the ethical challenges found in this topic and how it affects the
society. One of the main goals of this study is to raise awareness and educate people

since the fast-fashion industry is gathering more support from the masses who are

unaware of the problems associated with it such as workers experiencing low minimum

wages, unsafe working conditions, and use of child labor in the fast-fashion industry.

For the purpose of this study, accurate data was gathered, and information was taken

from a variety of reliable online sources.

METHODOLOGY

This chapter clearly defines the research methods used to conduct the study.

The researcher explains how the necessary data and information to address the

research objectives and questions was collected, presented and analyzed. Reasons

and justifications for the research design, research instrument, data sources, data

collection techniques, data presentation techniques and analytical techniques are given.

Aim of the Study

This study aims to explore the perception of fashion enthusiasts on the ethical

implications of fast fashion industry on human rights.

Specially, this study attempts to answer the following questions:

1. What are the respondents’ perceptions of the ethical implications of the fast

fashion industry?
 2. What are the respondents’ perspectives as part of the fashion industry toward the

companies that promote fast fashion culture?

3. What possible solutions may be proposed at the end of the case study?

Qualitative Research Approach

For this study, a qualitative research approach was chosen because qualitative

methods are particularly useful in determining the meaning of working people they

encounter (Merriam, 1998). Specifically, phenomenological approach will be used to

understand the Ethical Implications of Fast Fashion Industry on Human Rights on the

perspective of fashion enthusiasts. “Qualitative research method is especially helpful

when it provides us with someone’s perception of a situation that permits us to

understand the different point of view” (May, 1997).

Research Instrument

The data will be collected in either of the two platforms, depending on the

respondent's preference, either verbally or in writing. If respondents prefer to respond to

the interview request via writing, Google forms will be used, while messenger calls will

be used if the respondent prefers a verbal interview with the researcher. This study will

be using semi-structured interviews with open-ended questions to gather data. It will

allow participants to elaborate, giving them more flexibility, range, and, as a result, the

ability to elicit more information from the participants.

Sampling and Selecting of The Respondents

The reason for a particular sampling strategy varies significantly and is

determined by the study's objectives and research questions (Punch, 1998). The

researchers will be using a purposive sampling technique to select a sample of

participants. The reason behind choosing this sampling method is that it allows good

correspondence with the research questions with the sampling. The criterion for the

participants would be: first, they should be Filipino citizens. Second, their age must be

18 and above. Lastly, they should have a background in the fashion industry. They

could be either of the following: boutique owner, online seller, fashion blogger/vlogger or

simply a buyer/shopper. Furthermore, in the logic of small samples in interview-based, it

is advised that using fewer than 20 participants in a qualitative research study will result

in better data. (Crouch, Mckenzie, 2019.)

Data Analysis

Once the data is transcribed, this study will be utilizing Thematic analysis as a

qualitative data analysis technique. The researcher will carefully examine the data to

identify and group the data according to the theme, topics, ideas, and patterns of

meaning. Then lastly, the processed data will undergo data verification. This process

involves checking the validity of data by rechecking the transcript multiple times, thus

allowing the researcher to be on the safe side when concluding findings.

 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

This chapter contains a presentation of the data obtained through the use of

Google Forms during the interview. In addition, this chapter provides an analysis of the

significant findings that the researchers had discovered throughout the course of the

study. These findings are presented in line with the problems that were discovered

during the course of the study, and they are supported by related studies and published

literature.

The researchers saw the importance of getting the opinion of fashion

enthusiasts which have prior knowledge of the fast fashion industry. This includes

fashion bloggers/vloggers, boutique owners, online sellers, as well as shoppers. A total

of eleven interviewees shared the same questions to answer. The researchers

constructed general interview questions: 1. What are the factors that you take into

consideration when buying clothes? 2. What are your preferred fashion brands for your

wardrobe? 3. What is your perception of the fast fashion industry? 4. What are the

unethical issues that you know concerning fast fashion and how do you feel about it? 5.

What is your opinion on big companies that promote fast fashion culture? 6. What can

you do to help stop the continuous growth of the fast fashion industry? 7. What are the

other clothing industries that you can suggest, aside from fast fashion? The data

gathered is grouped into categories, which clearly explain the insights of the

interviewees regarding the specific question.

Wardrobe Considerations

When shopping for new clothes for themselves and their businesses, the people

we interviewed took a number of different considerations into account. The vast majority

of them think about the level of craftsmanship that went into making the garments. It is

essential that the lifespan, durability, and sustainability of the garments be able to

withstand wear and tear for an extended period of time. In addition to the product's

quality, it is essential that the prices be reasonable and within the range of the average

consumer's budget. Additionally, they take into consideration the style as well as the

one-of-a-kind quality of the products, particularly for fashion bloggers and vloggers. Last

but not least, it is essential that they have an understanding of the history of the

company, particularly if it advocates eco-friendly fashion and is supportive of local

businesses.

One of the most difficult challenges that a lot of people out there have to face is

figuring out which brand is best for them. There are phony brands on the market

alongside legitimate ones. On the other hand, distinguishing between the two can be

challenging. You need to be knowledgeable enough to be able to choose a good brand

that you will always return to shop again from time to time. For everyday essentials, the

majority of people interviewed cite Zara, Uniqlo, H&M, GAP and Shein as their go-to

brands. They also choose Gucci, Burberry, Chanel, and Prada when they want to feel

luxurious. Others preferred shopping at thrift stores in order to support local and

environmental-friendly businesses. It is abundantly clear that some of the brands that

were mentioned support the concept of fast fashion.

Perception of the Fast Fashion Industry

In the world of fashion, where trends are constantly evolving, companies do their

best to stay current. The process of design, creation, and release is a cycle that never

comes to an end, which enables clothing brands to release new clothes on a regular

basis. In order for businesses to compete successfully in today's fast-paced industry,

they need to introduce new products as rapidly and affordably as they can. One of the

boutique owners claimed that the term "fast fashion" refers to reasonably priced but

fashionable clothing that is produced rapidly from design to retail stores in order to keep

up with trends. Additionally, new collections are released on a continuous basis. One of

the interviewees, a male fashion blogger who is 21 years old, stated during the course

of the conversation, "I don't like it, not ethical, doesn't save the environment." Some of

the people who were interviewed had the opinion that fast fashion is nothing more than

a waste of money. The clothes are being offered at a lower price, making them more

accessible to more people. However, the quality is extremely poor. They do not like to

support brands that are not transparent about how they run their businesses or where

they get their products from. An 18-year-old female online seller shared her thoughts on

the fast fashion industry by stating, "The fast fashion industry is show casting only the

good side of their brands but manages to hide the truth about overproduction and usage

of harmful chemicals." The remaining interviewees all had similar insights regarding the

negative impact that fast fashion has, not only on workers but also on the environment.

On the other hand, one of them stated that even though fast fashion must be avoided, it

is inevitable.
Unethical Issues of Fast Fashion

The individuals who were interviewed were able to identify a number of unethical

problems that are associated with the fast fashion industry. First is child labor. Child

labor is defined by the United Nations as "work for which the child is either too young,

work that is done below the required minimum age, or work which, because of its

detrimental nature or conditions, is altogether considered unacceptable for children and

is prohibited." In addition to working long hours, children who are forced into child labor

receive very little compensation for their labor. In addition to receiving wages that are

not fair, the majority of children have to start working in dangerous working

environments at a very young age. Children suffer adverse effects as a result of being

subjected to toxic chemicals and inhaling fiber dust and dyes. In addition, children's

poor physical and mental health is affected by potentially hazardous machinery as well

as by exploitation.

The second issue is the exploitation of labor. They are fully aware that the

workers are getting paid below the minimum wage. As a consequence, workers end up

living in conditions that are considered to be below the poverty line. With that, the

European Parliament has even referred to the working conditions of factory workers in

Asia as "slave labor." In addition, they mentioned that the working conditions of the

employees can bring a negative impact on their health. 8,000 different man-made

chemicals are used in the manufacturing of clothing that falls under the category of fast

fashion. It has been established that some of these chemicals can cause cancer, and

factory workers are being exposed.

 Third, the impact that it has on the environment in terms of pollution. After the

food industry and the construction industry, the fashion industry is the third most

polluting industry. This type of clothing is known to have a negative impact on the

environment due to the exhaustion of non-renewable resources, the emission of

greenhouse gases, and the consumption of massive amounts of water. According to

Business Insider, the dyeing of textiles is the second-largest source of water pollution in

the world. This is due to the fact that the water that is left over from the dyeing process

is typically dumped into ditches, streams, or rivers. In addition, many brands make use

of synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic, all of which take several

hundred years to biodegrade.

It is truly evident that most of the fashion enthusiasts, if not all of them, are fully

aware of the unethical issues brought by the fast fashion industry. Even they are also in

despair knowing that there are people who are being abused just for the sake of

fashion. They can see people desperately crying for help on broad daylight and this is

something that shouldn’t be ignored.

Alternative for Fast Fashion

Due to the continuous and rapid expansion of the fast fashion industry, the

individuals who were interviewed recommended that consumers should refrain from

purchasing items from brands that are complicit in fostering this culture. They also

presented a number of alternatives to fast fashion, each of which has the potential to

make the consumers' wardrobes more ethical and environmentally responsible. First,
support local thrift stores. Thrift shops are great places to buy things at more reasonable

prices without having a negative impact on either the workers or the environment. When

clothes are no longer needed, another option to consider besides throwing them away is

giving them away as donations. Second, DIY clothing. Make an effort to repurpose or

reimagine the garments in order to give them a new look rather than immediately

throwing them away. The practice of recycling and sustainable fashion is being

undermined as a result of this. Last but not least, invest in clothing of high quality and

purchase items from brands that are environmentally conscious. There are businesses,

such as Beckons, Pact, Organic Basics, and others, that offer alternatives to fast

fashion in flexible budget. It is advisable for people who are in a position to do so to

invest in clothing that is of a high quality and can be worn for many years rather than

invest in clothing that is only relevant for the current season.

APPLICATION OF THE THEORY

Deontology is based on the belief that a morally "right" decision is based on

"abstract universal principles or values such as fairness, rights, justice, and respect for

persons and property." According to deontological theories, "certain moral principles are

binding, regardless of the consequences." It is based on a folk theory of human

voluntary action in which people form conscious goals that direct their actions (Holyoak

& Powell, 2016). As a result, intentions are frequently critical. To intend to harm

someone is worse than to harm them as a by-product of achieving some permissible

end, even if the side effect was anticipated. Thus, deontology implies that children who
are forced to work as children are morally inferior to children who need to work for their

families.

The deontology perspective is a better measure for the ethical implications of the

fashion industry in this study. Kant, regarded as one of the founding fathers of

universalism, regards the categorical imperative as the fundamental principle and moral

law governing ethical behavior. This concept is made up of three formulas. First, the

ethics of an action is determined by whether it abides by a maxim whose validity would

be acceptable to all individuals, at any time and without exception, and from which you

would like it to become a general law. As a result, the likelihood of child labor becoming

universal law, the violation of which would be considered immoral, is extremely remote.

Kant's maxims do not address human rights literally and are not based on humanly

formulated laws. However, concepts like dignity, freedom, well-being and autonomy are

fundamental to both. The corresponding violation of children's fundamental human

rights contradicts the concept of social welfare. Second, all individuals affected should

not be treated as a means to an end, but rather as an end in itself, that is, their freedom

and dignity should not be jeopardized. In fact, child labor is employed for the purpose of

obtaining cheap labor rather than as an end in itself or for the establishment of dignity.

Third, Kant continues that each subject must establish maxims of will that have the form

of universality but do not interfere with the freedom of others through his own use of

reason. Individuals are law-givers in this formula, rather than followers of universal law,

as in the first.

A moral right, according to deontologists, implies an unviable universal claim.

However, rights cannot be said to be exceptionless unless they are accompanied by a

corresponding universal represented by a set duty on the part of others (White, NA ).

According to deontologists, right and wrong have nothing to do with happiness, pain, or

consequences. Morality is determined by whether or not acts violate moral rules and by

the motivation behind those acts. A good act is thus one that was performed out of a

desire to do one's duty and obey a rule. In other words, act with good intentions. As a

result, child labor is wrong, not because of the consequences, but because it violates an

absolute moral rule. To summarize, the three identified unethical problems in fast

fashion are unacceptable. Having said that, the researchers conclude that these issues

are unethical according to the Deontological Theory.

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