The UK ,s No.

1 sewing mag

HELLO
Summer!
L How to sew couture pockets
L Adding ease explained
SEWING BEE
JUMPSUIT
L Master hemming jersey Sizes 8-22

Sizes
8-20

Quick-make
BEACH DRESS

Sizes
XS-XXL Sunshine-ready
DRESS

SEWING BEE
Discover what's next for
the series 8 contestants
ISSUE 109 UK £10.99

Super
SLEEVES
2
 to issue 109 of
Love Sewing! Meet the
TEAM
S
ummer is finally here! The warmth and
sunshine make me feel so happy and
uplifted – I hope you feel it too. We’re
celebrating the
warmer weather with
two fantastic cover
patterns for you in
this issue. The first,
Butterick 6728, is Michelle
a stunning flutter
sleeve dress – for EDITOR
a pretty everyday Michelle loves
look, go for the dressmaking, fashion
midi length, or go history and celebrating
fabulous makers! See
all out for special
what she’s sewing
summer occasions As always, our indie designers are here to offer
next on her Instagram:
with the elegant yet more inspiration and sewing joy. The team stitchywhitney
maxi version. We’re at Crafty Sew & So has created the perfect
ready for weddings, quick-make beach dress on page 54. Julia
garden parties Claridge of Bobbins and Buttons has spoilt us
and any excuse to with two great summer sews; draft your own
sew this beautiful contemporary wrap over skirt on page 69 and
dress. See reader get sunshine ready with a terrific tie-strap sun
Emma’s gorgeous dress on page 62. We’re delighted to have Juliet
gingham version Uzor’s fabulous Sewing Bee jumpsuit on page 26. Ruth
on page 17.
Stay cool in style All this, plus we have some superb home and CONSULTANT
on page 14 If you’re after accessory projects, great reads about sewing EDITOR
Ruth hopes to inspire
useful wardrobe with kids, designer David Moorish and The
your creativity in every
basics, look Great British Sewing Bee, and our panel of
issue. For more sewing
no further than industry experts delivering the usual hearty dose
antics see her Instagram
Threadcount 2113 of advice and inspiration. Don’t miss Elisalex’s grinlowsews and visit
– a simple but new Dressmaking Dilemmas column, Alison www.grinlowsews.com 
stylish V-neck top Smith’s guide to trouser welt pockets and Claire
with three great Louise Hardie’s tips on adding ease.
sleeve options
to choose from. As always, write in with your makes and
This easy-to-sew comments to letters@lovesewingmag.co.uk, or
pattern will have tag us on Instagram at lovesewingmag. We love
you whipping hearing from you!
through your
fabric stash in no Until then, Ian
time, providing SENIOR DESIGNER
you with a When he's not spending
wardrobe full of time with his family, Ian is

Michelle
versatile tops for enthusiastic about great
day or night. design and loves getting
creative with the team.
Check out more of his
Sew a pretty wardrobe arty work at

staple on page 19 icdartwork.etsy.com

 Inside this
ISSUE
REGULARS
AND FEATURES
14

6 Love Sewing Loves

Includes
10 Interview with Sewing Bee
2-in-1
series eight contestants
Steve, Marni, Chichi and
elegant
Richy flutter sleeve
17 Reader review dresses
23 Thrifty Stitcher with
Claire-Louise Hardie
30 Skill Building with
Amy Scarr
PROJECTS
34 Sewing with Kids
42 Pattern Picks 14 Your Butterick B6728
flutter sleeve dress
44 SUBSCRIBE TODAY
19 Your Threadcount TC2113
46 Fabric focus
3-in-1 top
53 Exclusive giveaway:
Storage4Crafts 26 The Great British Sewing
Bee Jumpsuit
58 Couture sewing
techniques with 38 Jean-ius denim tote bag
Alison Smith MBE
48 Sewing room storage trio
60 Free book offer
54 Quick-make beach dress
61 Fabric focus
66 Interview with embroidery 62 Shoulder-tie sun dress

3 ISSUES
designer David Moorish
69 Wrap over button skirt
72 Dressmaking Dilemmas
with Elisalex de Castro
FOR 78 Wild wall art
Peake JUST
80 Coming next issue
82 This month I’m making
£12!
Turn to page 44
to find out more
Find us online
www.craftworld.com

search ‘lovesewingmag’
4
 19 Editorial
Editor Michelle Rowley
Consultant Editor Ruth Brown
Chief Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton
26 Sub-Editors Andrea Petrie, Victoria Smith
Designer Ian Danby
Photographer Laura Conroy
Covermount & Packaging Designer
Sharon Drury
Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie,
Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake,
Amy Scarr

Advertising
3 stylish Advertising account executive Noune Sarkissian
noune.sarkissian@practical
publishing.co.uk

sleeve options Publishing

to choose from! Head of Content Kate Heppell
Group Buying & Licensing Controller
Lucy Pedder
Group Business Development Manager
Chris Cooke
Head of Product Carol Jones
Head of Publishing Ruth Walker
Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick
Managing Director Danny Bowler
Group Managing Director
Robin Wilkinson

Distribution
Newstrade Seymour Distribution Ltd
Tel: 0844 826 0613

Contact
Practical Publishing International Ltd,
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info@practicalpublishing.co.uk
www.practicalpublishing.co.uk
Tel: 0161 327 0440
Fax: 0161 474 6961

Subscription Enquiries
Tel: 0161 327 0441
54 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk
Love Sewing is published by Practical
Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X

All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The

style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from
Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material
in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted
48 in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent
of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher
welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions
38 and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted
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worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to
first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being
used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated,
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purpose, in perpetuity.
Stock images provided by Shutterstock Inc

CONTRIBUTORS
Amy Scarr
Amy is here to help take your skills up to the next level with her
expert tips and tricks. Discover how to master hemming jersey
knits on page 30 and stay up to date with Amy’s latest makes at
www.almondrock.co.uk
Claire-Louise Hardie
Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and
costumier. Claire-Louise teaches a range of step-by-step
sewing classes online at www.thriftystitcher.co.uk and this
month guides us through how to add ease. Head to page 23
to learn more!

Elisalex de Castro Peake Alison Smith MBE

Elisalex is a regular columnist for Love Sewing and is
also the head of design and co-founder of By Hand
London, which produces high-quality patterns available at
www.byhandlondon.com. Turn to page 72 for her answers
to your dressmaking dilemmas.
Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is
an industry expert in classic couture, an author and has her
own shop and line of patterns. Join Alison on page 58 for her
expert guide to sewing welt trouser pockets.

5
 The patterns, people, fabric and
finds getting us sewing this month

Fabulous
fabrics
If you want to save some money and stock up on gorgeous
fabric for your summer sewing projects, check out the
extensive range at Cheap Fabrics! Cheap Fabrics stocks a
massive range of supplies for sewists on a budget, including
those under £2.50, bulk buy and even end-of-roll offers.
Cheap Fabrics offers fantastic service and so much fabric that
you will be spoilt for choice. www.cheapfabrics.co.uk

Super sewing kits

Achoo Pachoo has come up with the ingenious idea of

MAKE AT 140 taking your favourite patterns from such brands as Tilly
and the Buttons and Merchant & Mills and creating these
handy sewing kits. Complete with fabric, all the required
It’s time to start venturing out to all the exciting events and
notions, chalk, pins and even labels to finish off your new
workshops in local sewing shops. The talented team at Make at
garment in style; this is everything you need in one box.
140 is running truly unmissable workshops. With workshops that
What a wonderful gift this would make for a lucky sewing
include button necklace making, a beginner’s sewing course and
friend! There is a wide range of boxes to choose from, so
even a workshop on how to best sew with jersey knit, there really
get a box and get sewing!
is something for everyone. Find out more about these incredible
www.achoopachoofabrics.com
workshops at www.makeat140.co.uk

6
 Stacey's
20% OFF CORNER
SEARCH PRESS! Stacey Chapman is a
Enjoy 20% off Search Press crochet books with this
fabulous discount from Search Press. You will find a renowned textile artist and
treasure trove of books filled with patterns, hints, tips free-motion embroidery
and exciting sewing inspiration in Search Press books. expert. Every month, she
You will find such books as The Crafty Gentleman’s will be sharing useful tips
Guide to Modern Paper Piecing, so you can stock up and tricks to help you
your craft shelf with gorgeous sewing books. achieve sewing success.
Use the code LS109 to get this incredible discount.
www.searchpress.com Offer valid until 31st July
Stacey See more from Stacey at
www.artseacraftsea.com

If the creative gods are not smiling upon

SEW A
SOFTIE IN
JULY
Starting 1st July, Sew a Softie is
back with daily tutorials from
bloggers around the world and
hundreds of sewing groups
taking place where people can
share skills and get together to
create cute creatures. This is the
perfect opportunity to get the
kids into sewing and allow them
to develop their skills while being
creative. We love this initiative
and you can find out more at
www.sewasoftie.com.
you, specially reserved fabric can provide
inspiration. Fabric with qualities such as
extraordinary shine, rigidity, transparency
or merely sumptuous high-end beauties,
need little manipulation. These gems may
be your ticket to exit a creative rut. With
a couple of hours spare and exquisite
foundation materials, textile magic can
happen. A cleverly selected pattern outline
for appliqué, sculptural folding or simple
monotone repetitive stitching can provide
stunning outcomes.
If you are predominantly working with
up-cycled clothes, finding seriously
stunning fabric can prove rare. That’s where
designer deadstock fabrics can be the
equivalent of having the occasional Michelin
dining experience after endless takeaways…
Recently, I found deadstock cloth with a

Sew into leather

glass-like shine finish. Curiosity led me to
try a blowtorch for alchemy, which resulted
in coral-shaped formations. Another find, a
magnolia blush silk taffeta reminiscent of a
china doll, was so luxurious it almost made
me want to weep! It's now in progress to
become HRH The Queen’s face, depicting
One’s beautiful skin.
Such fabrics almost dictate how to work
with them due to the inherent quality that
caught your eye. Pull edges, crease or boil.
Listen to the fabric and behold your
own alchemy!

Stacey found inspiration in

this 70s Japanese wedding
linen fabric

Have you ever wanted to sew with leather? We have just the thing. These
gorgeous craft kits from Rosanna Clare are the perfect way to get you started
on your leather sewing journey. These handy kits feature everything you need to
create your own leather items, such as purses, notebook covers, clutch bags and
even coasters! Each kit contains step-by-step instructions, a video tutorial and all
the materials to make these handy items. www.rosannaclare.com

7
 25% discount Offer valid until 7th August

at McCall’s!

BOOK OF THE MONTH

We all want to fill our weekends with beautiful sewing
projects, so this new book from Annie’s Quilting is perfect
for those of us who like to spend our free time in our craft
rooms. Quilts to Make in a Weekend is the perfect book for
You can now get 25% off McCall’s dresses! Don’t miss out on
sewists who want to whip up a quilt, and with nine incredible
this incredible discount at Sew Direct and stock up your summer
patterns to choose from, you will love every minute of these
sewing patterns, ready to fill your wardrobe with light dresses and
projects. With a little pre-planning, you will be finishing these
chic outfits. McCall’s patterns have a timeless feel to them, so
quilts in no time, from table toppers to bed quilts. Get
you will be coming back to them again and again. Use the code
your copy from www.searchpress.com and get quilting
LS109 to take advantage of this amazing offer.
this weekend!
www.sewdirect.com

VINTAGE DREAMING
We have been dreaming
of vintage ever since
we had a peek into this
exciting new pattern
collection from Sew Over
It. Vintage Dreaming is a
fabulous new eBook from
the most stylish pattern
designers in the business.
This eBook contains
everything you need to
create a capsule wardrobe

Time for something new that flatters and brings

your vintage dreams to
life. The patterns in this
There is new fabric galore on the Fabric Godmother site,
collection are versatile and
with breathtaking geometric designs like this Beatrix Geo
come in many variations,
Daisy Rayon in Pink & Orange. The lightweight feel of this
so you can create the
fabric is perfect for sunny afternoons relaxing in the garden
garment perfect for
or dressed up for a dinner date. With a retro feel, the Beatrix
you. Find out more
Geo Daisy Rayon fabric would add charm to any pattern
and get your copy at
it was paired with. Find this fabric and much more at
www.sewoverit.com
www.fabricgodmother.co.uk.

8
2
 STITCHER’S
STORY

SEWING BEES
share all
We caught up with Sewing Bee series 8 contestants Chichi,
Marni, Richy and Steve to discover their sewing top tips,
dressmaking wins and exciting future plans!
Can you share some sewing tips with Richy – Don’t be put off by your What has been your worst sewing
Love Sewing readers who have been mistakes. Instead, learn from them and disaster and your biggest triumph?
enjoying the show? move on to the next piece. Steve – One of the first things I ever
Chichi – Salvage any project that you Marni – My best sewing tip for any made was a denim jacket; I made a bit
think has failed. I have had many sewist would be to give it a go. What is of a mistake with the topstitching at the
projects sat discarded that I revisited the worst that’s going to happen? If you shoulder, so I started unpicking it, went
years later and with a little more don’t like it, you can rip it out and start a bit too rough and ended up ripping the
patience and creativity became wearable. again; if it doesn’t quite fit, you can alter entire right side of the jacket off. It was
I’ve learnt a it. If you hate it, you can chop it up, make pretty devastating! But I managed to save
lot from the mistakes I have made along something different or give it away. it with a patch, which ended up actually
the way. looking pretty cool.

10
Wise words for Richy
from Esme Young
Richy – My worst sewing disaster was a
wool skirt that shrunk as soon as I washed
it because I didn’t preshrink the fabric. It
was hideous, but I wasn’t deterred. It made
me want to improve my skills and try
again. My biggest triumph was a regency
dress I made over the summer, complete
with all the undergarments. I extensively
researched the techniques that would have
originally been used and the type of fabrics
the various pieces should be made in, and
I followed these as closely as I could to
ensure it was historically accurate. The
finished piece consisted of a corset, stays,
petticoat, dress, and
jacket, with a small
bag and bonnet to
finish it off. This is the
kind of work I want
to continue within my
My greatest triumph
sewing endeavours. was the wedding
Chichi – My worst
sewing disaster, dress I made for
amongst the many,
would be my first my friend
attempt at a pair of
trousers. The pockets
were virtually non-
existent, the seams
didn’t match up, and worst of all, they were
way too small. For two years, they sat in
my large pile of ‘nearly finished’ projects. I
have since fixed them, but I will forever be
reminded of how upset I was. My biggest
sewing triumph would be the self-drafted
sequin jumpsuit I made in two days for
a work Christmas party. It was only my
second time working with sequins and
boning, but I was happy with the fit and
had a great night.
Marni – Disasters made at home can be
ripped out and done again or chopped up
for something new… and no one needs to
be any the wiser! My greatest triumph was
the wedding dress I made for my friend.
Describe your style, and how much of
your own clothes do you make?
Chichi – Since September 2019, I have
decided to not buy new clothes, so if I
don’t buy items from
vintage markets or
charity shops, I will
try to make them
myself. I would say my
style is a combination
of functional, edgy and
a little bit sexy.
Marni – I am not sure
I have a style as such.
I love luxury fabrics
and bright colours and
patterns. I would love
to wear fancy couture
style clothes with
embellishment and bling and shine… but
real life means that I don’t get out much,
and I would be totally overdressed for
work! I have made a fair amount of my ‘out
out’ clothes.
Richy – I would describe my style as
WE’RE
BUZZING
ABOUT
THESE BEES
CHICHI
Research analyst Chichi lives
and works in London. She
impressed the judges with
her imaginative designs
during her time on the
show, which included her
ice-skating heroes-inspired
jacket for Sports week and
stunning green wrap dress in Week
One’s made to measure challenge. Follow
Chichi’s sewing adventures on Instagram
saychichis
MARNI
Canadian-born veterinary
surgeon Marni has been
sewing for 35 years. In
sports week, her Major
Heather Stanning-inspired
jacket won her garment
of the week. The judges
admired the creativity behind
her refashioned garments, and we loved her
designer-inspired duvet sheet dress in Reduce,
Reuse, Recycle week. Say hello to Marni on
Instagram marnibettyvet
RICHY
Bow tie fanatic Richy is a
baker with a passion for
historical garments. Who
can forget his fabulously
designed Tom Daley-
inspired jacket for Sports
week? We loved the diving
board aerial view and diving
zipper! See what Richy’s sewing next
on Instagram the_back_stitch_boys
STEVE
Personal running coach Steve
turned to sewing during
lockdown and hasn’t
stopped since! We loved
his fun toucan print co-ord
set in the made to measure
challenge and his striking
duvet sheet dress in Reduce,
Reuse, Recycle week. Say hi to Steve on
Instagram szczepan_cowling
11
 Chichi works on
the perfect fit
classic, comfortable, and colourful. I enjoy
putting different colours and patterns
together that clash yet complement each
other. I like unique pieces that I will wear
for years – I’m not a fan of fast fashion and
prefer to find clothing that’s a bit quirky
and individualistic. I want my personality
to be shown through my clothes. I very
rarely make my own clothes because it
can be difficult to fit things to yourself,
and I’m not the biggest fan of making
men’s clothing. I have made myself some
trousers, but I prefer making things for
other people.
Steve – I like making bright and loud
things, and I like big patterns. Mostly I
make familiar things with a bit of a twist.
The most common thing I hear is, “When
you described it, I didn’t think it would
work, but I really like it,” so that’s good…
I guess! Most of what I make is heavily
influenced by pop culture; based on things
I’ve seen on TV, music videos or on-stage
outfits of musicians. I’m trying to not buy
new clothes now and make everything I
need for day-to-day life. Hopefully, I’ll have
a 100% homemade wardrobe in the not-
too-distant future.
What is your favourite garment to sew or
your speciality?
Marni – I do love sewing trousers, and I
take great pleasure in sewing the double
welt back pockets.
Richy – My favourite
garments to sew are
period pieces from the
18th and 19th centuries.
The majority of modern
I want my
fashion is designed to personality to be
meet supply and demand,
and as a consequence, shown through
it has lost a touch of
individuality. Garments my clothes
from the 18th and 19th
centuries have a personal
quality to them, as many
pieces were made to
measure or adjusted to fit. They use lost
techniques that are interesting to research
and recreate; everything was done for
a purpose, and a great level of skill was
used in each garment. Making corsets,
12
undergarments and stays are interesting
and fun to make.
Steve – I would say about 80% of the
stuff I make is for myself, so I guess
my speciality is menswear. But I really
wouldn’t call it a speciality – I don’t think
I’m good enough to have a speciality. My
favourite garments to make are men’s
shirts. I make a lot for myself, and there
are a lot of minor adjustments you can
make that change the shirt massively,
whether it’s the fabric choice, collar size
and type, buttons, sleeve lengths, body
lengths and so on.
Do you have an attachment to a sewing
tool, and why is it special to you?
Chichi – I love my French curve. The tool
itself isn’t very fancy, but
it makes pattern drafting
so much easier than
freehand drawing.
Marni – I bought a new
rotary chalk marker for
the Sewing Bee, and
it makes just the most
satisfying little noise as
you roll it across a piece of
fabric. It is my new most
favourite thing! So much
satisfaction for less
than £5!
Richy – I am incredibly
attached to my sewing machine. It was
my nan’s and is very old-fashioned but is
extremely satisfying to use because it feels
like a piece of history.  to get more people involved in sewing and
Steve – Not really, to be honest – I’m
A happy Marni in
the sewing room
pretty minimalist with my sewing stuff.
I basically have a sewing machine and a
cutting board. That being said, there’s a
few things I’ve seen the other Bees using
that I’m definitely going to buy!
What’s next for you in the sewing world?
Chichi – I have bought a new desk,
so no more sewing on the floor! I am
now able to have my sewing machine
and overlocker out at all times! I’m also
planning on making a dress form based
on my own measurements so I can
improve my draping skills.
Marni – I shall continue my selfish sewing
in the hope of having some lovely events
to wear my makes to. Note to self: I must
get out more!
Richy – I have an exhibition at my local
museum that will display some of the
historical garments I have made, which
is very exciting because I can share my
love for historical fashion with a wider
audience who may not have seen the value
in it before. I hope to continue making
historical costumes, including some for
myself this time. I’m also attending the
Jane Austen Grand Regency Ball in Bath,
in full historical attire, of course! 
Steve – I try not to plan too much in
advance, so I don’t miss the shiny thing in
the peripheries that might pop up. That’s
what led me to the show. There are a few
things I’m currently thinking I’d like to
do, maybe a community interest project or
something similar. It would be really nice
do some good with it.
 MIDLAND
Te x t i l e s

FREE
SHIPPING C
ODE
GET READY FOR SUMMER
FOR A GREAT SELECTION OF QUALITY
LOVESEW DRESSMAKING AND CRAFT FABRICS

WWW.MIDLANDTEXTILES.CO.UK
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 2
 Use your
PATTERN

VIEW B
Sew a full-length version for a
sophisticated summer look
We used
Large Floral Linen Rayon
Dress Fabric,
£8.99 per metre
www.midlandtextiles.co.uk

EASY
elegance
Get set for summer events with
this month’s chic two-in-one
flutter sleeve dress

14
 Michelle says…
This pattern has so
much potential
for colour blocking

Choose a
fabric with
great drape

VIEW A
Choose the shorter
option for a more casual
everyday dress

We used
Teal polka dot viscose lawn,
£4.50 per half metre
www.sewmesunshine.co.uk

15
 MASTERCLASS
A NARROW
ESCAPE
Top tips for sewing
narrow hems

A striking feature of this dress is the

beautiful flutter sleeves, the hems of
which will be visible – so keep them
narrow and neat! Love Sewing Editor
Michelle shares her favourite methods
for sewing narrow hems.

My most commonly used method

for creating professional-looking
narrow hems on circular pieces such
as flutter sleeves, flounces, ruffles,
and circle skirts is the ‘fold and cut’
method. For a 5/8” hem allowance,
stitch ½” all along the raw edge for
hemming. Press the hem under 5/8”.
Very carefully, trim off 3/8” hem”. The
closer to the original stitching line you
cut, the narrower your hem will be.
Press the hem up again ¼” and stitch
close to the folded edge.

Are you using chiffon for your flutter

sleeves? Lovely! You might want to
opt for a rolled hem foot to achieve
a neat and narrow finish. The curved
channel in the front of a rolled hem
foot folds the raw edge before the
needle stitches the hem; using this
optional foot eliminates the need to
manually press the hem before
you sew. 

In a hurry and want to wear your

dress now? By the time I get to the
hems of a garment I’m often already
planning my next make and eager
to move on! When I want the hems
done even and neat, I reach for the
quilting tape! Washaway double-sided
Subscribe
quilting tape can come in different today and get
widths, but I use ¼” for sleeve hems. 
TWO PAPER
Apply the tape to the end of the PATTERNS
sleeve and remove the packing paper.
Fold the taped area down towards WITH EVERY
the wrong side of the sleeve and fold ISSUE!
again. Stitch close to the fold. That’s
See page 46
it! I love that using the tape means the
for details
width of the hem will be consistent
without having to do any measuring.

16
R ea d er R eview
Butterick 6728
Emma Glover-
Watkins shares her
take on this month’s
Butterick 6728

A
nyone who knows me well knows
that I love a bit of gingham, and
when I saw this issue’s Butterick
6728, I knew it would be a match made
in heaven! For my dress, I was toying
between using traditional cotton or
a reversible double gauze gingham.
Eventually, I settled with a 100% cotton
gingham in the shade 'Old Rose' from I knew it
Minerva because I liked the structure
and fullness it would give to the skirt. I would be a
decided to make view A for a wearable,
midi-length dress. match made
I found the pattern relatively easy to
follow. It took me a while to get my head
in heaven!
around how to attach the waistband
facing because you end up with a
few different layers, so I recommend
taking this bit slowly! I made a couple
of adjustments to the sleeves and the
bottom skirt tier. I replaced the frill
sleeves with some from the Friday
Pattern Company Sagebrush Top. It’s
simple to do by playing with the gathers
to ensure the sleeves fit into the armhole.

The pattern instructions are to cut three

pattern pieces for the bottom skirt tier;
these would have been two-thirds of the
width of my fabric when unfolded. As
I try to avoid fabric waste and because
I’m lazy, I just cut two pattern pieces
the entire width of my fabric, meaning
my skirt was a little less full but more
suitable for everyday wear.

I love the cottagecore vibe my dress has:

the full skirt, puff sleeves and gingham
will make this a staple piece in my
wardrobe! Its semi-fitted silhouette and
subtle use of gathers at the waist make
it smart enough for a dinner date, but
comfy enough for everyday wear.

Follow Emma’s sewing adventures on Instagram emzimakes  

17
18
 Use your
PATTERN

Top of the
TOPS! Sew up this delightful
trio of tops, with three
stunning statement
sleeves to choose from

VIEW A
With a loose fit and beautiful
drape, this is a comfortable
style staple you can wear for
many occasions

We used
Poppy, carnation and yellow
dahlia polyester, £10.50 per metre
www.chrysalisfabrics.co.uk

19
 VIEW B
This charming version of the
top boasts tie-detail sleeves,
perfect for adding drama and
detail to a simple sew

We used
Spun floral viscose in
mustard yellow,
£4.50 per half metre
www.fabricsgalore.co.uk
Michelle says…
Sewn in silk, this
would make a very
special evening top!

20
 MASTERCLASS
STAYSTITCHING
AND
UNDERSTITCHING
Give your top’s V-neck the
professional treatment using
the key skills of staystitching
and understitching.
Seamstress Jeanette Archer
shares how

USING THESE STITCHES

1 Staystitch the neckline – using a regular
stitch on your sewing machine, sew a
line of stitches on the seam line (usually
1.5cm) along the neckline edge. There is
no need to reverse-stitch. If you prefer,
stitch slightly inside the seam line, 1.3cm,
to further guarantee the staystitching
doesn't show on the right side of the
finished garment.
2 Attach interfacing to the assembled
facing and neaten the outer raw edge with
a zigzag stitch or on an overlocker.
3 With right sides together, sew the facing
to the bodice at the neckline.
4 Trim the seam and notch the curves.
5 Press the seam allowance towards the
facing and pin in place if you need to.
6 Now you will understitch the seam.
Open out the neckline so the facing sits to
the right of your presser foot.
7 From the right side, sew a few
millimetres to the right of the seam line,
ensuring your stitching goes through all the
layers underneath.
8 Use the guides on your presser foot to
help keep the stitches even, and move your
needle position if that helps.
9 Press the facing to the inside of
your garment and admire your
professional finish.

Top tip!
Use these tips to
prevent the front edges
of your neckline from
stretching or rolling

21
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fashion prints and trends for our customers
by offering a fast and easy service with a
tremendous range of fresh, vibrant beautiful
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Buy with confidence from a rapidly growing

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34
www.cheapfabrics.co.uk Contact number - 0345 520 2525
 B6728 requires some
positive ease to be comfortable

ABOUT
CLAIRE-LOUISE

Claire-Louise is an author, pattern

designer, teacher and costumier.
We recommend her online course
www.learntosewwithapro.com/
THRIFTY
STITCHER
ultimate-beginners

Claire-Louise’s book, The Great

British Sewing Bee: Fashion With
Fabric, accompanied the third series
of the show and is priced at £20 from
www.quadrille.co.uk Not sure how much ease should be
Join Claire-Louise’s monthly sewing
club and learn how to take your
included in your garments?
sewing to the next level with expert
tips, tricks and techniques to try. Visit Claire -Louise Hardie gives us her expert
www.thethriftystitcher.co.uk
to find out more guide to understanding ease

23

You need lots of ease
in Simplicity 8657
f you’d like to create better-fitting
I garments, you will need to understand
exactly what the term ease means. 
Essentially, ease is how much
bigger OR smaller a garment is over
and above your body measurements.
Think of how you use the word ‘ease’
in your regular non-sewing life; ease
is often used to describe something as
comfortable or ‘easy’. In a sewing pattern,
this is much the same concept – ease
allows your clothes to glide over your
body, allowing you to have a full range
of movement when wearing them. Rarely
would we want our clothes (unless
stretchy) to fit like a second skin.  ease than a dress designed to attend a
Before we dive a little deeper into how
to assess ease, it’s crucial to understand
that you can have both positive and
negative ease.
1 Positive ease: This means that the
finished garment, when measured, will
24
CHART A
Silhouette Dresses, Blouses, Shirts,
Tops, Vests
Close-Fitting 0-27⁄8"
Fitted 3-4"
Semi-Fitted 41⁄8-5"
Loose-Fitting 51⁄8-8"
Very Loose-Fitting over 8"
be bigger than your body measurement.
Woven fabrics require positive ease for
the wearer to move comfortably and
sit, for example. This month’s beautiful
B6728 dress pattern is designed for a
woven fabric, so requires positive ease
to be comfortable. You can see on the
pattern envelope that the garment is not
super tight over the shape of the body.
It’s a semi-fitted style, so the amount of
overall positive ease will be less than the
kaftan style of Simplicity 8657.
2 Negative ease: This means that the
measurement of the finished garment is
smaller than your body measurement.
Some stretchy garments like activewear
are designed to be smaller than your
body to provide a compressive effect.
Think swimsuits, running leggings,
etc. Negative ease also ensures that the
garment doesn’t stretch and bag out of
shape too quickly.  bust, waist and hips and compare to the
Ease has two primary functions – fit
and design. In woven fabrics, a certain
amount of positive ease is required
for the garment to fit, called wearing
ease. The difference between body
measurement plus wearing ease and the
overall measurement of the completed
garment is called design ease.
Wearing ease: This is positive ease
and allows the body to move inside
the garment. The amount of wearing
ease required is rather subjective, as we
each like our clothes to fit differently.
The amount may also vary based on
the intended purpose of a garment. So,
a skirt you plan to wear that involves
sitting may need a little more wearing
cocktail party where you know you’ll be
standing. Chart A is a rough guide to
standard wearing ease guidelines.  ease of the garment. We can find this
Design ease: This is usually positive
ease, although how compressive a
garment is in a stretchy fabric can be
Skirts, Trousers, Shorts,
Culottes
0-17⁄8"
2-3"
31⁄8-4"
41⁄8-6"
over 6"
a design feature – take shapewear, for
example. Design ease determines how a
garment looks. So if I want a close-fitted
bodycon dress like McCall’s 7994, I would
look at the amount of ease being close to
the minimum required for a close fit.
This month’s Threadcount pattern is a
much looser style and will have more
positive design ease factored into the
pattern than the white Butterick's
6728 dress. 
So now we understand what ease is,
how can we utilise this knowledge
when making our own clothes?
Understanding ease can help us choose a
better pattern size right at the beginning
of the making process. To do this, we
need to get our own body measurements.
STEP 1
Measure yourself at the high bust, full
measurement chart of the pattern you’re
using. Make a note of the size on the
body measurement chart closest to you
at each point, remembering that you may
well be two or three different sizes across
the key measurement areas.
Once my measurements have been
recorded, I like to ring the sizes on the
pattern envelope in pencil. Using B6770
as an example, with a bust measurement
of 40”, a waist of 30” and a hip of 44”.
This spans across three sizes, which is
totally normal, and it’s easy to blend
between sizes. (See Chart B.)
Rather than choosing your size based on
body measures, you can fine-tune the fit
by looking at the ease.
STEP 2:
This stage is where we consider the
out by comparing the finished garment
measurements to those of the body
measurements plus wearing ease.
Here’s a little equation to help you
 Accurate body measurements are crucial

Equals 1 inches of design ease Chart C is a table you can use to

Threadcount 2113 has Sometimes the finished garment plan your next pattern. You can use
sufficient ease for a relaxed fit measures will be on the envelope, or they the standard ease table on page 24 to
may be printed on the pattern tissue. estimate the wearing ease required for
each type of style.
understand design ease using finished Since an A-line skirt isn’t usually tight
garment measures: at the hips, then 1” of ease means You need to do this for every
I would probably choose the different pattern brand. Don’t
Design ease = Finished garment style based on my body assume just because you’ve
measurement MINUS Body Measurement
PLUS standard wearing ease
Example 1: An A-line skirt based on the
measurement. However,
if I was making a very
fitted skirt, I might
Top tip!
If there are no finished
had a great fit in size
18 using a Butterick
pattern that you’re a
hip measurement choose to size down size 18 in ALL brands.
garment measures, you
Design Ease: 43’(finished garment) MINUS as 1” of design ease Every company uses
can measure the pattern
40 + 2 ( body measurement PLUS 2” means it may be too pieces yourself at the key its own measurements,
wearing ease loose. measuring points wearing ease formulas
and design ease. The best
CHART B practise would be to do
Closest pattern size to my this for every new project, as
My Measurements
body measurements even within a specific brand, different
Bust Waist Hips designers may change the design ease.
Finally, it’s very important to
Bust 40 18 mention that using finished garment
Waist 30 16 measurements is only a guide to how it
will fit, and only works when considering
Hips 44 20 the original style and design of a pattern.
Let’s say I want to make a batwing dress,
CHART C and when adding in wearing ease to
My Measurements plus my equation, I choose the amount for
Amount of ease
wearing ease the bust based on a close fit ie 1-2”. The
Bust Waist Hips resulting garment will look distorted
because it will be much tighter and won’t
Bust look fit or look like a batwing style. For
Waist a batwing dress, it should be a very loose
style, and 8” and up would maintain the
Hips original design.

25
 We love
STYLE The wrap-over
bodice and loose-
fitting trouser
combine
to create a
relaxed style

Sewing Bee
JUMPSUIT
Sew a jumpsuit just
like the Sewing
Bee contestants,
but without the
time pressure!
Project JULIET UZOR

26
MATERIALS & TOOLS: A B C
• 3.2m fabric, 150cm wide
(suggested: cotton, denim,
chambray, linen, viscose, rayon,
double gauze)
• 50cm interfacing
• 40cm closed-end zip

NOTES
Use a 1.5cm (5/8”) seam
allowance throughout, unless
otherwise stated

CUTTING HOW TO MAKE bodice to the centre back

• Waist tie – Single layer cut 1
on fold
• Front neck facing – cut 1 pair in
fabric and 1 pair in interfacing
• Front trouser – cut 1 pair
• Sleeve – cut 1 pair
LAYPLAN
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS
Bust
Front bodice length
Back bodice length
Waist
• Bodice back – cut 1 pair 1 Apply interfacing to the on each side, stitch facing in
• Bodice front– cut 1 pair wrong side of the front and place. Trim seam allowances
• Waistband – cut 1 pair back neck facings. Staystitch and snip into curves, then
• Back neck facing– cut 1 pair the necklines of the front and understitch facing to the
fabric and 1 pair in interfacing back bodice sections. seam allowances. Turn facing
• Back trouser – cut 1 pair 2 Mark and stitch the front to the wrong side of the
bodice bust darts. Press garment and press.
darts downwards. (See Pic C.)
3 Finish the centre back 8 Pin the folded edge at the
bodice edges and insert the centre back of the facing to
zip. Sew the centre back the zip tape. With the right
seam RST below the zip. side of the garment facing
4 Stitch the front and back up, stitch 'in the ditch' along
bodices RST at shoulders. the original zip stitching to
Finish the seam allowances secure the facing in place.
and press. (See Pic A.) 9 Press neckline. Overlap
5 Stitch the front and front bodice pieces, with
back facings RST at centre front notches
shoulders. Press seams matching, pin together at
open. Finish bottom and the waistline. Check the fit
centre back edges. around your waistline and
6 With RST and matching make any adjustments before
notches, pin facing around tacking overlapped edges
the bodice neckline; there together. (See Pic D.)
is more fabric around the  Fold the bodice in half
bodice neckline than around RST, matching underarm and
the facing, so gently ease side edges. Stitch underarm
the fabric as you go. Fold and side seam on each side.
the centre back edges of the Finish and press seams open.
facing to the wrong side by  Sew underarm edges
1.5cm and press. (See Pic B.) of each sleeve RST. Finish
7 With the facing and press seams. At sleeve
uppermost, working from ends, fold 1cm to the wrong
the bottom of the front side, followed by a further
8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
93cm 98cm 103cm 108cm 113cm 118cm 123cm 128cm
43.5cm 44cm 44.5cm 45cm 46cm 46.5cm 47cm 47cm
41.5cm 42cm 42.5cm 43cm 44cm 44.5cm 45cm 45.5cm
92cm 97cm 102cm 107cm 112cm 117cm 122cm 127cm

Hip 102.5cm 107.5cm 112.5cm 117.5cm 122.5cm 127.5cm 132.5cm 137.5cm

Sleeve length 30.5cm 31cm 31.5cm 32cm 32.5cm 33cm 33.5cm 34cm

Inside Leg 64.5cm 64.5cm 64.5cm 64.5cm 64.5cm 64.5cm 64.5cm 64.5cm

27
 D E F G

H I J K

1.5cm and press. Sew close piece, stitch short edges RST. remaining seam allowance. Fold tie in half lengthways
to the fold. Around each Press seam open. Fold the Topstitch around the hole RST. Sew along unfolded
sleeve head, sew two lines of bottom edge to the wrong to form a narrow rectangle. long edge. Turn the tie
gathering stitches between side by 1.5cm and press to Join bodice and trouser right side out, then tuck in
notches and gather. make the inner waistband. sections. (See Pic J.) 1.5cm at each short end and
(See Pic E.) (See Pic H.)  Pin the bodice to outer topstitch openings. Press
 With RST and front and  Construct the outer waistband RST. The right waist tie and insert into
back notches matching, waistband using the other side of the inner waistband waistband channel using a
pin sleeves in place. waistband piece – stitch should be against the wrong safety pin.
Distribute gathers evenly to the short edges WST, mark side of the bodice, with a Finish the raw edges of
fit sleeves into armholes. seam allowance 1.5cm from vertical hole positioned at the trouser legs. Fold 2.5cm
Stitch sleeves in place raw edges. Draw another the centre front. (See Pic K.) to the wrong side. Press and
and finish seam vertical line 2cm long  Stitch around the waistline stitch to finish.
allowances. in the middle through all the fabric layers.
 With RST, of the seam Understitch seam allowances
pin the
trouser front
to matching
Top tip!
Perfect your
allowance
line. Starting
at the top
to the inner waistband.
Press waistbands and seam
allowances downwards.
trouser of the Move the inner waistband
back. Sew
jumpsuit's neckline waistband, out of the way. Pin and stitch
along the
using tips from our sew down the waistline of the trousers
side edges
masterclass on p21! the seam to the bottom edge of the
and inseams. allowance as outer waistband RST. The
Finish and press far as the top centre front seam of the
seams. (See Pic F.) of the waist tie line. waistband should match the
 Turn one trouser leg right Backstitch and cut threads. centre front seam of
side out and insert it into the Sew from the other end the trousers. ABOUT
other trouser leg, matching of the waist tie line to the  Pin the folded edge of
inseams and notches. Stitch bottom of the waistband. the inner waistband to THE BOOK
together around the crotch. Backstitch and cut the the waistband of trousers,
The Great British Sewing
Finish seam and press. threads. (See Pic I.) covering waist seam
Bee: The Modern
(See Pic G.)  Fold in the seam allowances, then slipstitch
Wardrobe by Juliet Uzor
 Turn the trousers right allowances by 6mm and the inner waistband to (Quadrille £27.00)
side out. On one waistband press, then press open the seam allowances.

28
29
 ABOUT
AMY SCARR
Amy is the UK Brand Ambassador
for Simplicity Ltd which produces
all your favourite brands – Vogue,
McCall’s, Butterick, New Look
and Simplicity, available at
www.sewdirect.com. She shares
tips and tutorials, fresh ideas and
the best of the sewing community at
simplicitymccallsuk on Instagram

Practise your jersey

hemming skills on this
stylish wrap dress,
McCall’s 7893

STRETCH
yourself
Discover the ways you can hem
your knit garments with Amy,
brand ambassador for
The McCall Pattern Company

30
Hemming knits requires some careful
consideration because you need to make
sure the openings to your garment stay
Top tip
Stabilising the knit
stretchy enough to pull on and off your
body. If you hem knit garments in the same
fabric area to hem will
way as you would a woven garment, the significantly improve
fabric may become wavy, or the stitches the outcome
may pop when you try to stretch the
garment over your head.

BEFORE YOU START

Stabilisers
Stabilising the knit fabric you’re going to
hem will improve the outcome, especially
if your knit fabric is lightweight. There are
several options for stabilising, such as knit
stay tape, fabric spray starch you can wash
out, or wash-away/tear-away stabilisers. 

Raw edges
Even though jersey doesn’t fray, I still
recommend finishing the raw edge for
a neat finish. Jersey can curl or roll, so
you’ll appreciate the aesthetics inside
your garment. Use a zigzag stitch or an
overcasting foot and stitch on your machine.
Or use an overlocker or coverstitch machine
if you own one.
The overcasting foot runs along the raw
fabric edge, and the overcasting stitch
creates a robust triangle pattern that
wraps around the raw edge, replicating an
overlocker stitch. It takes quite a while,
but is a handy method if you don’t own
an overlocker.
A classic stretch stitch sewn on your
machine will finish B6847 beautifully
HEMMING
METHODS
Zigzag stitch
Sewn with or without
a walking foot, this is
the easiest way to hem knits.
The settings will match those used for
construction, generally around 2.5 width x
2 length. You can also use a lightning bolt
stitch (yes, it really looks like a lightning
bolt) or a triple stitch (like three lines sewn
in a row) if your machine has these.

The lightning bolt is a modified zigzag

Feed fabric evenly through
your machine with a walking foot
Walking foot
A walking foot can provide extra support
during construction and hemming. This
unique foot feeds both layers of fabric
evenly through your machine concurrently.
If you let the feed dogs pull the fabric
through from underneath, this can lead to
one layer being stretched more than the
other, disrupting your hem and leaving
unsightly waves.
created vertically instead of the classic
horizontal motion of the zigzag, whereas
the triple stitch goes back and forth over
the top of itself, creating a reinforced seam
that’s essentially three times as strong but
still very stretchy!
Blind Hem
You can create a beautiful hem finish that’s
invisible from the outside of your garment
on knit fabrics, too. You’ll need a blind
hem foot, which has a plastic guide to
run along the folded edge, and to set your
machine to the blind hem stitch setting.
Working from the wrong side, the needle
will catch all the layers periodically with
a tiny stitch that’s not noticeable from the
right side of the fabric, as long as you use
co-ordinating thread.
Twin needles have options for
different fabric types and weights
Twin needle stitch
One of the best ways to hem stretch
fabric is a top-stitched hem using a twin
needle; this has two needles on one
shank and is inserted into the machine
exactly the same way as any other needle.
You can get universal, ballpoint and
stretch twin needles in different sizes
and with different gaps between the
needles. Choose the thickness of your
needle to correspond to the thickness
of your fabric. In addition, the gap
between the needles should be wider for
thicker fabrics.

31

Burda 6109 lets you use bands to
finish your knits until you’re ready
to practice hem stitching
Finish the edge and apply stabiliser if you
wish. Turn up the hem allowance.  A coverstitch machine will
Insert the twin needle into the shank.
Try using a twin needle to finish Set up your second spool pin and
the hems of the M8245 sleep set thread up each needle starting with
the left side first. Both threads will run
through the same path until the last hook.
Master blind Thread the eyes of the needles by hand
hem stitching (sorry, the auto needle threaders don’t
with Vogue 1674
work here).  you see two rows of stitching on the front
Select a straight stitch with the needles in
the centre position and test the stitch on
some scrap fabric. If you find a little hump
or ridge is appearing between the needles,
try loosening the top tension a little at
a time.  need to be passionate about sewing jersey
If the ridge persists, this is known as
tunnelling. It means your needles may be
too close together for your chosen fabric.
Once satisfied, sew with the right side of
the garment facing up - on the top, you’ll get
two perfectly parallel rows of stitching, and
on the underside, a zigzag created by the
bobbin thread switching between the two
top threads.  If you’re still not convinced about
Try to line your stitching on top of the
raw edge finish you created in Step 1 for a
neat finish inside, disguising the layers
of threads.
Overlocked hems
One interesting option if you have an
overlocker is the ability to create beautiful,
rolled hems. Here the settings are adjusted
to roll the fabric as it passes under the
machine, encasing the fabric in a small, fine-
32
stitch pattern; this is perfect for hemming
delicate fabric, but can also be used on
jersey fabric. This method works best when
the thread colours complement or blend
with your fabric, as the stitches are fully
visible on the right side of the fabric.
Another option is to create a lettuce hem
because it resembles the wavy leaves of
lettuce. It’s an acquired taste, not often seen
on ready-to-wear garments but can be a fun,
creative finish on home-sewn clothes.
give a professional finish
Coverstitch machine
Most people use coverstitch machines to
achieve the traditional stitch finish seen
on ready-to-wear jersey clothes – where
of the hem and a chain stitch on the
back, similar to what you’d see with an
overlocked seam.
Getting a coverstitch machine is not for the
occasional dressmaker, and you will likely
fabric to get one. There are models with
different numbers of needles and some
hybrid machines that can be an overlocker
and coverstitch machine in one. Either way,
this will be an investment, and you may
want to think about what kind you need
before buying.
Fabric bands
hemming knits… you don't have to! You
can use a fabric band to finish the raw
edge. Traditionally seen on sweatshirts and
ringer t-shirts, you could draft a pattern
piece to finish off any knit hem. This piece
would be twice the depth of the finished
band and the same circumference of the
hem when assembled. Folded wrong sides
together and matching the bands raw
edges with the raw edge of the garment,
you’ll sew in place and then press down so
the seam allowance sits flat on the inside.
33
 BEHIND THE
SEAMS

Get set to
SEW WITH
KIDS!
ABOUT
RUTH BROWN
Ruth is a writer and maker with a special
Inspiring young people to sew is wonderfully interest in creativity. Find out more at
www.grinlowsews.com
rewarding – read on to find out how to get started!
BY RUTH BROWN
34
 Editor Michelle’s children busy sewing face masks

W
e all know sewing is one of
the most rewarding hobbies,
providing both utility and
creative outlet in one fell swoop. Whilst
some of us stumble across sewing later
in life, many of us sew because we were
encouraged to do so at an early age by a
loved one. Like many people, I was taught
the rudiments of sewing by my mum,
and now that my children are showing
an interest, it’s time to continue
the tradition.

Sometimes, though, it’s so long since we

learned to sew ourselves, it can be hard to
know where to start. The adage about the
beginner being a better teacher than the
master because they remember better the
act of learning is especially true for craft –
while your mind may be pondering French
seams or fabric composition, a beginner
wants to know how to thread a needle and
tie a half-decent knot.

So, with that in mind, here are our top tips

for sewing with kids.
1. HANDS FIRST
While getting cracking on a sewing
machine is the best kind of fun, it pays
to start with the basics. A needle (and a
fairly large one for younger learners), some
thread and a small pile of fabric scraps are
all you need to get going. Sewing with our
hands is an indispensable skill, of course,
but it also introduces us to the tactile
nature of the craft and the sheer magic of
joining materials to create something new.
2. BITES AND BREAKS
When getting started, always make sure
there is enough time to have a decent first
go, but be prepared for interest to wane
when it gets tricky. When it does, either
mix things up or take a break – while
occasionally children become so engrossed
it’s hard to rouse them, most of the time,
learning in bite-sized chunks will be easier
than relentlessly ploughing through.
3. KEEP IT SIMPLE
At the same time, don’t create so many
chunks, it feels like a never-ending
enterprise. Don’t overwhelm with too
much technical detail too soon. It’s great
to feel a sense of achievement reaching
the finishing line without negotiating too
many hurdles along the way, keep the
project simple and manageable. You can
always step it up as they become more
comfortable with the process.
While the temptation might be to start
with clothing – especially for a child
fascinated by fashion – a great way to
introduce the process behind garment
making is to start with a mini project that
travels from paper template to finished
project in a small number of easy steps.
4. LIGHT THE FIRE
Most importantly, let them get on with
it! William Butler Yeats once said that
"education is not the filling of a pail, but
the lighting of a fire" and is especially
true when teaching a craft. The last thing
a child needs is the grown-up grabbing
their project and creating a line of neatly
executed stitches next to their wandering
knotted trail.
The imperfections in a beginner’s work
are not only a sign of a road to travel, but
also of commitment to the process and
desire to investigate and learn. Cherish the
wonkiness and encourage them to do
the same; they are at the start of a
rewarding journey!
Head over to
5. REACH OUT www.craftworld.com to find
My mum taught me to sew and then left a heap of fun projects, from
me to my own devices to learn at my own
pace. But I have since wondered whether
patchwork cushions to small
I would be as immersed in sewing had I cuddly toys – all of which can be
not had that early exposure. The Great modified and simplified with an
British Sewing Bee has created a great deal
of interest in sewing in recent years and
absolute beginner in mind

35
 IN THE
GOOD BOOKS
If you’re toying with the idea of
training up a young person in your
life, you’re in luck as two excellent
new books have just hit the
bookstores.

Manipulating fabric into 3D form

Sewing Machine Basics for Children
by Angela Pressley, published by
CICO Books (£12.99) Photography
by James Gardiner © CICO Books
Angela Pressley’s guide to sewing
is tailor-made for children aged
7-11 and provides a complete
course in machine sewing. Angela,
who has taught sewing for many
years, knows how to encourage
and inspire young people to
learn. Starting with the basics, she
gradually builds up a portfolio of
skills through 30 gorgeous makes.
requires creative ingenuity
encouraged many people to take up the
hobby. But what if everyone got the chance
to have an immersive experience with
sewing at an early age?
With this in mind, I recently set up a
sewing club at my daughter’s school
for children aged 8-11 years. My priority
was that it should be entirely free to make
sure all children could come and try
their hands with a needle and thread.
When the fabrics are tipped onto the
table, the children’s expressions are
priceless; fabric love is, I am sure, an
innate human characteristic.

Setting up an after-school club as a

A Beginner's Guide to Sewing by
Hand and Machine by Jane Bolsover,
published by CICO Books (£16.99)
Photography © CICO Books
Jane Bolsover’s book will help you
guide younger people through their
sewing journey with confidence.
From sewing nuts and bolts to a
structured course of 12 workshops,
which build from the most basic
hand-sewing techniques through to
more advanced dressmaking skills,
this book will have any beginner
sewing with confidence in no time.
volunteer will not be everyone’s cup of tea,
but if you are interested in offering young
children a chance to try sewing, my advice
would be to talk to your headteacher and
see what they say. As children progress
through school, the creative arts have
less space in the syllabus, so your offer
could be welcomed (subject to all relevant
checks, of course!), or you might be able
to help out with a teacher-led class in
something similar.
These group sessions are busy, sometimes
noisy and sometimes uncannily silent!
They are not ideal for learning all the nuts
and bolts of sewing, but they are enough
to spark interest and hopefully open fresh
eyes to the magic of making.
6. KNOW THE VALUE
Sometimes it’s easy to forget how crucial
the creative arts are for human beings.
A good-sized needle and some fabric scraps
are all you need to get started
Schooling is so focused on academic skills
that the arts and crafts are squeezed out of
focus for many young people too early in
their lives.
Treating the arts as of lesser value does a
huge disservice to us all. The anthropologist
Margaret Mead argued that ‘children must
be taught how to think, not what to think’.
What better way to learn how to think
than through the problem solving and
creative ingenuity required to manipulate
fabric into 3D form? When we teach young
people about the path that leads to making
the clothes on their own back, their minds
become open not only to the process of craft
but also to the world around them, how it is
made, and how to understand it.

36
37
 We love
BAGS

ABOUT
THE BOOK
Refashion, Restyle,
Restitch by Debbie Shore
& Kimberley Hind (Search
Press, £12.99)

38
 Jean-ius
TOTE BAG Have fun fabric weaving with your old jeans
to turn them into a striking denim tote bag
Project DEBBIE SHORE & KIMBERLEY HIND
Photography GARIE HIND

MATERIALS & TOOLS: A B

• two pairs of jeans, one dark
& one light – if you’re using
alternative fabrics, you’ll need
two 45.75cm square pieces
of contrast fabric for the bag
front; three pieces of dark
fabric & three pieces of light
fabric for the bag back, each
measuring 38x7.5cm
& two dark &
make up the overall quantity
needed. If you have to join two
pieces of fabric, cut two strips of
fabric, each measuring 38x6.5cm
and sew to each side of the two
pieces. (See Pic A.)
• Cut out fifteen 2.5x41cm strips
of dark denim
• For the back

Top tip!
two light of the bag, cut C D
fabrics for three strips
the handle, each of dark
each Other strong fabrics & light denim
measuring measuring
such as canvas, khaki
10x30.5cm 38x7.5cm
or curtain fabric would
• strong wet • For the
also work
fabric glue handles, cut
• 76.25x35.5cm two dark & two
piece of lining light pieces of
fabric – an old denim, each measuring
pillowcase is perfect! 10x30.5cm E F
• 86.25x40.5cm piece of single- • For the lining, cut two pieces
sided fusible foam stabiliser of fabric, each measuring
• fabric marker pen & ruler 38x35.5cm
• mat or board & tape to secure • Optional – one pocket from
the fabric when weaving the jeans

NOTES: HOW TO MAKE

Use a 1.25cm (½”) seam allowance
unless otherwise stated
Finished size will be 37x39.5cm
(141/2x151/2”)
CUTTING:
You’ll need a piece of light denim
measuring 41x38cm. The largest
pieces of our denim were from
the thigh sections, and we needed
to join two pieces measuring
41x20.5cm and 40.75x18cm to
1 Fold the light denim panel
in half widthways. Draw
lines at an angle from the
fold, starting where the two G H
fabrics meet (or in the centre
if you’re using one piece of
fabric) and finishing at the
edge. Make the lines further
apart as you reach the top
and bottom of the fabric.
(See Pic B.)
2 With fabric still folded, cut
along lines, stopping at the

39
 border strips. If using one I J K
piece of fabric, stop 5mm
(¼”) from the edge. Open
out fabric. (See Pic C.)
3 Weave the first dark
denim strip over and under
the cuts in the panel, then
push the strip right to the
top. Weave the second strip
through the cut panel – this
time, weaving under, then L M N
over. Push this up until it sits
against the first strip. (See
pics D & E.)
4 Continue until the whole
panel has been woven. Apply
wet glue under some of the
overlapping fabric pieces to
hold in place and fuse the
foam stabiliser to the wrong
side. (See Pic F.)
5 Trim the woven panel (See pics J, K & L.)
all around to measure 9 Position a handle onto the
38x35.5cm. Sew around all right side of a bag panel with
four sides within the seam handle ends 13cm in from the
allowance to secure the side edges and 13cm down
ends of the strips. from the top. Place
6 Sew the the handle on the

Top tip!
strips for back of the bag
the back slightly into
of the bag the pocket.
RST with a Sew ends
1cm seam If you prefer, you in place by
allowance, could stitch along stitching a
making a the raw edges box shape.
stripy effect. after weaving (See Pic M.)
Press seams  Cut a 2.5cm
open. Fuse the square from each
foam to the wrong bottom corner of the
side of the back panel. Edge lining pieces. Sew the lining
stitch along the seams. If panels RST, leaving top and
using a pocket, place it on cut out the corners unsewn
the right side of the back and a turning gap in the base
panel 10cm down from the of about 10cm. Open out the
top and 7.5cm in from the cut-out corners so the side
right-hand side. seams sit over the base seam
(See pics G & H.) and sew straight across the
7 Cut a 2.5cm square from seams to the square bag base.
each bottom corner of both Leave the lining inside out.
bag panels. If necessary, trim (See Pic N.)
the panels to same size.  Sew the outer bag together
(See Pic I.) in the same way, omitting
8 For handles, sew a dark the turning gap in base. Turn
to a light piece across one the bag right side out and
short end RST. Press seams push out the corners. Drop
and repeat. Fold one handle the outer bag inside lining
piece long edges to the RST and stitch around the
centre and press. Fold the top. Turn the whole bag right
whole handle in half and side out and sew the turning
press again. Edge stitch all gap closed. Push the lining
the way around. Repeat inside the bag and edge stitch
for the other handle. around the top to finish.

40
41
 PATTERN
PICKS

Dress
UP
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This feminine floaty dress is a fantastic option if you’re a fan of ruffles.
There’s potential to incorporate ruffles at the neck, sleeves and skirt.
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42

Button up
Show off your
buttons with McCall’s
8091. We love the
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its optional
patch pockets and
topstitching detail,
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43
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46
‘MAKING IT - NOT WASTING IT!’
Let’s do our bit by not letting textiles and pre-made clothing end up in landfill.
Discover your hidden talents by joining Buttons and Bows at their creative workshops.

Classes will cover:

✂ Structured sessions
✂ Open sessions where you can
bring in projects that you are
working on
✂ Supporting Charities making/
donating items made

Crafts include:
Sewing - Appliqué - Embroidery -
Knitting - Crochet - Working with Felt & Needle Felting - Upcycling clothing and other
items - Cross Stitch - Macrame
✂ Stalls 133 Stevenage Indoor Market , SG1 1EP
Buttons and Bows ‘Making It’ Workshop, SG1 1EP ✂ Daily sessions
07396499085, Facebook: Buttons and Bows plus Fabric
41
 We love
HOME

48
 Sewing Storage
TRIO Streamline your sewing space
with this eye-catching wall
organiser. Stitch up a matching
fabric basket and pin cushion for
a co-ordinated look
Project JANET GODDARD
MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• 75cm teal for background
& backing
• 50cm rose floral for pockets
& pin cushion
• 30cm green floral for pockets,
basket & pin cushion
• 25cm jewel leopard print for
basket & pin cushion
• 50cm single-sided fusible
interfacing for the organiser
• 30cm single-sided fusible
wadding for the basket
• Small amount of stuffing for the
pin cushion
• thread to match for piecing
• 18” wooden stick or rod
for hanging
• 1m cord
• 1 button for the pin cushion
NOTES:
Finished sizes: Wall Organiser 16x28”,
Pin Cushion 4x5”, Basket 8x4½x3”
Use a ¼” seam throughout
CUTTING
• 2 (16½x26½”) rectangles
(teal fabric)
• 1 (4½x18”) strip (teal fabric)
• 1 (13x16½”) rectangle (rose floral)
• 2 (5½x10”) rectangles
(rose floral)
• 1 (11x16½”) rectangle
(green floral)
• 1 (16½x26½”) rectangle
(fusible interfacing)
Shopping list
All fabrics used are from the Jewel Tones collection from
Makower with the exception of the teal background, which is
from the Linen Texture collection www.makoweruk.com
HOW TO MAKE A B
1 Iron the fusible interfacing
to the reverse of one of the
(16½x26½”) teal rectangles.
To stitch the bottom pocket,
fold the (13x16½”) rose floral
rectangle in half horizontally.
Press and topstitch along
the folded edge. Place it
on the teal rectangle, with
raw edges aligned with the C D
bottom and sides. Stitch
around edges, 1/8” away from
the outer edge. (See Pic A.)
2 To stitch the middle
pocket, fold the (11x16½”)
green floral rectangle in half
horizontally and stitch RST
along the long raw edges.
Turn through and press.
Topstitch along the folded E F
edge. (See Pic B.)
3 Position the green floral
rectangle 4½” above the top
of the bottom pocket. Stitch
down the sides and along
the bottom, 1/8” away from
the edges. (See Pic C.)
4 For the two small top
pockets, fold the two
(5½x10”) rose floral G H
rectangles in half RST so that
the 5½” sides are together.
Stitch all around raw edges,
leaving a 2” gap in the
bottom seam for turning.
Trim corners and turn
through. (See Pic D.)
5 Position the two small top
49
 I
two outer straps 1” in from
each outer edge and the third
strap in the centre. Stitch with
a 1/8” seam. (See Pic G.)
8 Stitch the remaining
(16½x26½”) teal rectangle
RST on top of the wall
hanger, leaving a 5” gap in the
L bottom seam. Trim corners.
Turn through and press.
Topstitch around the edge,
closing the opening.
(See Pic H.)
9 To divide the large pockets
on the organiser, stitch a
line down the middle on the
bottom pocket to create two
pockets and on the middle
pockets 2” up from the top of pocket, stitch two lines to
the green floral pocket and 2” create three pockets. Insert
in from each side of the teal the rod through straps and
rectangle. Topstitch in place tie the cord to the required
around three sides, stitching length to each end of the rod
opening closed. (See Pic E.) to finish.
6 For hanging straps, press
under ¼” on each long side TO MAKE
of the (4½x18”) teal strips. THE BASKET
Place the folded edges
together so that the right CUTTING:
side of the fabric is facing • 1 (6x9½”) rectangle (jewel
outwards and topstitch along leopard print)
the folded edge. Topstitch • 1 (11½x9½”) rectangle (jewel
along the opposite edge. leopard print)
Cut the strip into three 6” • 2 (3½x9½”) rectangles
strips. (See Pic F.) (green floral)
7 Fold straps in half and with • 1 (9½x12”) rectangle
RST pin straps to the top of (fusible wadding)
the organiser, positioning the
50
HOW TO MAKE:
1 For the outer basket,
stitch a (3½x9½”) green
floral rectangle to each
side of the (6x9½”) leopard
print rectangle. Iron fusible
wadding to the wrong side.
Stitch in the ditch along seam
lines, then fold in half RST.
Stitch down each side.
(See pics I & J.)
2 For the base, match the
centre base line with the
side seam. Measure in 1½”
along the seam line and stitch
across. Cut off the excess
fabric. Repeat for the other
corner. (See Pic K.)
3 For the lining, take the
(11½x9½”) leopard print
rectangle and fold it in half
RST with a 9½” opening at
the top. Stitch down each
side, leaving a 2½” opening
in one side 1” from the top.
Shape the lining corners in
the same way as the base.
Place lining inside basket RST
and stitch around the top.
(See Pic L.)
4 Turn the basket through,
push out the corners and
stitch the lining gap closed.
Pull the lining up so that it
sits ¼” above the green floral
fabric and stitch in the ditch
between the lining and green
floral fabric.
TO MAKE THE
PIN CUSHION
CUTTING:
• 1 (4½x5½”) rectangle (rose
floral fabric)
• 1 (4½x2½”) rectangle
(green floral)
• 1 (4½x7½”) rectangle (jewel
leopard print)
HOW TO MAKE:
1 Sew the (4½x5½”) rose
floral rectangle to the
(4½x2½”) green floral
rectangle. With RST, stitch
to leopard print rectangle,
leaving a 2” gap.
2 Turn through. Stuff firmly
with stuffing, and slip stitch
closed the opening, then
stitch the button to
one corner.
ABOUT
JANET
GODDARD
Janet teaches patchwork and
quilting classes and is the author
of four books on patchwork,
applique and bag making.
You can find Janet at
www.patchworkpatterns.co.uk
or on Instagram at janetpatch1
49
52
 Exclusive
GIVEAWAYS

WIN
AN ALLSTORE 70
DOUBLE TOWER
STORAGE UNIT!
Enter our exclusive competition to win
this versatile and compact storage unit
for your craft room

The fantastic team at Storage 4 Crafts is giving
away this beautiful Allstore 70 Double Tower
storage unit to one lucky Love Sewing reader.
This fabulous unit is perfect for storing your
fat quarters, thread, notions and anything
else you want neatly stored away, while also
staying close to hand. This popular addition
to the Storeaway Allstore range is versatile
and easy to assemble, so you can add this
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For full terms and conditions, see www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/competitions

53
 We love
STYLE

Quick-sew
BEACH
DRESS
Pop on this pretty
trimmed dress for a trip
to the beach, lunch by
the poolside or simply
for sipping something
refreshing in the garden!
Project FREYA GILBERT & SARAH WADEY
from Crafty Sew & So
www.craftysewandso.com

Freya and Sarah co-own Crafty Sew &

So, a Leicester-based fabric shop and
sewing studio. They launched their
pattern range, My Handmade Wardrobe
Patterns, in 2017 and design modern
sewing patterns that
everyone can sew. Visit
www.craftysewandso.com for more!

54
LAYPLAN A B C
Fabric
110cm/45ins wide size XS-XL only
150cm/60ins wide

FOLD

D E F

SIZE CHART (IN CM)

G H I

210cm

MATERIALS & TOOLS: 2 Finish the raw edges of

• 210cm of 110cm/45” wide fabric
(sizes XS-XL ONLY) or 150cm/60”
wide fabric (ALL sizes) for the
main body
• 3m of fancy trim
• your waist measurement in
1cm-wide elastic
• pattern downloaded from www.
craftworld.com/cms/love-sewing
NOTES:
All seam allowances are 1.5cm unless
stated otherwise
PREPARATION:
1 Mark topstitching lines on
the outside of front and back
panels. Mark elastic sewing
lines on the inside of front and
back panels. (See pics A & B.)
both sides of the front and
back and front and back neck.
(See Pic C.)
HOW TO MAKE:
3 With RST, join the front and
back panels at the shoulder
seams, stitching between the
notches and leaving a gap
open at the centre. Backstitch
at each notch. (See Pic D.)
4 Press the seam open
and topstitch around the
neck, opening the edge
approximately 1cm from the
edge. (See pics E & F.)
5 Matching the trim edge
with the raw edge of the
fabric, baste trim to the
outside edge of sleeve

SIZE CHART:
Shopping list
Size XS S M L XL XXL
Yellow Leona Floral Viscose
Poplin, £7 per metre from
Bust 82cm 92cm 102cm 114cm 126cm 138cm
www.craftysewandso.com
Waist 66cm 76cm 86cm 99cm 109cm 120cm Pink mini pompom trim, £0.89 per
Hip 90cm 100cm 110cm 120cm 130cm 140cm metre from www.myfabrics.co.uk

55
 J

opening, starting and ending just

beyond side seam notches.
(See Pic G.)
6 With RST, sew the front to
the back at the side seams
from the first notch to the hem.
(See Pic H.)
7 Fold basted edge of the trim
to the inside of the armhole
opening and press. Topstitch to
secure. (See Pic I.)
8 Fold elastic into quarters and
mark the quarter points. Join
the elastic to form a loop.
(See Pic J.)
9 On the inside of the dress,
align elastic with the waistline,
matching marked quarter points
to side seams and centre front
and back. Using a long and wide
zigzag stitch, stitch elastic to
the garment, aligning it with the
waistline-marked line at all times
and stretching out the elastic as
you sew. (See Pic K.)
10 Turn the right side out and
topstitch from the dot to the
notch at the side seam. Turn and
stitch a 7mm double-turned
hem to finish. (See Pic L.)

56
57
 ABOUT
ALISON SMITH
Awarded an MBE for her services to
dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert
in classic couture and a published author.
Alison has her own shop and line of patterns,
and you can also learn with her at one of her
exclusive workshops. Find out more on her
website www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

ASK THE
EXPERTS

Couture guide to
trouser welt pockets
Alison Smith MBE shares her expert tips for
sewing the perfect trouser welt pockets 

58
 A B
E F
S
mart and streamlined,
welt pockets make a great
addition to the back of a
pair of trousers. Trouser welt
pockets are constructed slightly
differently from welt pockets
on a jacket or waistcoat. Read
on to discover how I sew these
sleek and stylish pockets.
PREPARATION
You will have three pattern
pieces – the welt and two
pocket pieces – to create the
pocket bag, one in lining fabric
and one in the fashion fabric.
Interface the welt and the
trouser. Mark all the pattern
markings on both the trouser
and pocket sections with tailor
tacks. (See Pic A.)
CONSTRUCTION
On the trouser, on the WS on
the interfacing, draw in the
stitching lines. Press the welt
piece in half WS to WS and
place to the trouser matching
the tailor tacks. Machine
the welt to the trouser back
between the tailor tacks,
securing the machine stitch
at either end. Trim the seam
allowance down by half and
press. (See pics B, C & D.)
Place the lining piece over the
welt, matching the pattern
markings. Pin in place, placing
the pins vertically to the
stitching line. Flip the work to
C D
G H
the WS and using the row of I J
stitches that secured the welt
stitch over these stitches to
attach the lining. Trim back
the lining seam allowance.
(See pics E & F.)
 
Take the final pattern piece and
place over the welt and lining
piece, matching the pattern
markings. This piece may look
as if it’s on upside down. Pin in
place on the RS of the trouser, K
placing the pins vertically.
Flip the trouser to the WS
and stitch along the second
row of pattern markings. The
distance between the two rows
of stitching should be the width
of the welt. Make sure both
rows of stitching are exactly the
same length. (See pics G & H.)
Slash through the trouser!
Use a zigzag stitch to
Make sure you cut long V
shapes into the corner.
reinforce the ends
(See Pic I.)
Post all the pieces through the
slashed trouser, pull the ends
of the welt through the ends of
the slash to form the ends of the row of stitches that you zigzag stitch. Try a stitch length
the pocket. (See Pic J.) previously made. of 0.5 and a stitch width of 3.0.
    (See Pic K.)
Pull the pieces of the pocket It’s now time to stitch across the  
into position and press. The V shape at the ends of the welt Until next month,
upper row of stitching needs and stitch the pocket bag. The
securing to the pocket bag, final step is to reinforce the end
this is not always easy, but push of the welt. As this pocket could
the seam allowance onto the
pocket bag and stitch along
get a lot of wear, it’s advisable
to reinforce the ends with a lison
59
60
 FABRIC
FOCUS
S9327 plunging neckline dress,
sizes 6-22, £11.00 1
www.sewdirect.com

LOVELY
IN LINEN
Keep cool this summer in these linens,
5

available now at Dot to Dot Studio

Fabric shopping
1 Powder blue and black giant check linen, £12.00 per metre 6
2 Mauve powder soft viscose linen mix, £13.50 per metre
3 Lilac chalk stripe cotton linen mix, £10.00 per metre
4 Ochre yellow powder soft viscose linen mix, £13.50 per metre
5 Sorbet sparkle stripe linen mix, £13.50 per metre
6 Palisade stripe linen viscose mix, £11.00 per metre

All fabric available from www.dottotdotstudio.co.uk

61
 We love
STYLE

Shoulder-tie
SUN
DRESS
Sew a simple shoulder tie dress
and head for the sunshine
Project JULIA CLARIDGE
www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

ABOUT
BOBBINS &
BUTTONS
Bobbins & Buttons is a hub of sewing
based in the East Midlands, offering
own-brand patterns, fabric and
workshops. Julia designs a range of
sewing patterns for all the family. Styles
are versatile, adaptable and easy to
make. A collection of fabric that suits
the sewing patterns is available. Julia
offers sewing classes that are flexible
to your skill level and geared towards
what you would like to learn.

For more information

visit Julia’s website
www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

62

MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• Sizes 8-12 2.30x1.12m wide
• Sizes 14-20 2.90x 1.12m wide
• 25mm elastic
• Pattern downloaded from
www.craftworld.com/cms/
love-sewing
NOTES:
1.5cm seam allowance
unless stated otherwise
CUTTING
Main fabric:
• Cut 4 straps
• Cut 1 x pair front yokes
• Cut 1 x front skirt on fold
• Cut 1 x pair of backs
• Cut 1 x back neck facing on fold
HOW TO MAKE:
1 Take each strap piece,
fold RST and stitch along
one short edge and down
the long edge, leaving
the remaining short edge
unstitched for turning
through. Trim the seams and
corners using a loop turner
or another method, turn each
strap through to the right side
and press. (See pics A & B.)
2 With RST pin and stitch
the centre back seam, neaten
LAYPLAN:
GARMENT MEASUREMENTS IN CMS
Bust
Centre front length
Elastic cut length
A B C
D E F
raw edges. (See Pic C.)
3 Place one strap RST and
raw edges matched at each
strap position on the front
yoke. Machine tack to hold in
place. (See Pic D.)
4 With RST, place the
remaining front yoke piece
over the front yoke with
the straps attached. Stitch
along the upper edge only,
sandwiching the straps
between the two. (See Pic E.)
5 Place the other two
remaining straps RST and raw
edges matched at each strap
position at the upper back
edge. (See Pic F.)
6 Turn and press a 1cm
turning along one long edge
of the back neck facing.
With RST, pin the un-turned
edge of the facing to the
upper edge of the back,
sandwiching the straps
between the two. Stitch.
(See Pic G.)
7 Turn the facing to the
inside, press and stitch close
to the lower edge. Cut a
piece of elastic, thread it onto
a safety pin, guide it through
the elastic channel and
machine each end to prevent
8 10 12 14 16 18 20
88cm 93cm 98cm 103cm 108cm 113cm 118cm
106cm 106cm 106cm 106cm 106cm 106cm 106cm
34.5cm 37cm 39.5cm 42cm 44.5cm 47cm 49.5cm
63
 G H

I J

K L

M N

the elastic from receding into yoke will be free). Stitch.

the channel. (See Pic H.)
8 Stitch two rows of gathered
stitches on the upper edge
of the front skirt panel. With
centres matched and RST,
pin the lower edge of one
side of the front yoke to
the upper edge of the front
gathering to fit. Stitch.
(See pics I & J.)
9 Under stitch the upper
edge of the front yoke.
(See Pic K.)
 With RST, pin the front and
back together at the side
seam, the back placed in line
with the upper seam line of
the front yoke (the internal
(See Pic L.)
 Neaten the lower edge
of the internal front yoke,
fold the front yoke RST so it
encases the side seam, and
stitch in line with the side
seam. Neaten raw edges.
The seam will naturally fold
towards the front. Press.
(See Pic M.)
 Turn to the right side
and pin along the edge of
the front yoke, holding the
Shopping list
internal yoke in place. Stitch Makower henna flower craft weight
in the ditch. Turn and press cotton in yellow, £13.00 per metre
a double turned hem at www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk
the lower edge to finish.
(See Pic N.)

64

HABERDASHERDO
We caught up with Jane, the owner of
Haberdasherdo, to discover what makes
this sewing hub well worth a visit
Hi there, can you tell us a little bit about
how Haberdasherdo got started and
how it has changed over the years?
In the summer of 2019, I took over
an old-fashioned home textile and
haberdashery shop in Southbourne,
Bournemouth, that dated back to 1932.
I reopened it under the new name of
Haberdasherdo after a complete refurb.
The shop had become neglected over
the years, but I could see the potential
for the haberdashery and decided to
introduce fabrics, patterns and yarns.
I’ve sewn all my life – I had teenage
sisters growing up in the 1970s, and I
wanted to be like them making their own
clothes! I made a pair of dungarees when
I was 10, and we have them on the wall
in the shop. We still get asked for the
fabric nowadays, as they’re really bright
and colourful.
We offer the most extensive range of
haberdashery on the South Coast –
everything from buttons to zips, along
with an expanding range of dress and
soft furnishing fabrics and yarns for
the knitters and crocheters. Along with
my team of lovely ladies – Helen and
Ali – we’ve worked really hard to make
the shop a welcoming and friendly space
where sewists, knitters and crafters of
whatever ability can come for help and
advice with their projects, as well as to
SHOP OF THE
MONTH
Southbourne
buy the fabrics and notions they need.
Customers are so complimentary about
the shop, the difference we have made to
the high street, and how essential we are.
You sell a wide range of items – what
are some of your bestsellers?
Often, customers are not entirely sure
what they need or what it’s called, so our
most common question is, "What are you
trying to make?" or "What’s it for?". Once
we know that, we can help them find
what they’re after. We like to think we’re
good at finding alternative solutions to
fixing some of their sewing conundrums!
What sets you apart from other shops?
I wanted the shop to be a real
community hub, so every Tuesday and
Thursday, we have a ‘sewcial’ morning.
People can bring their own projects into
our workshop space at the back of the
shop and work on them over a cuppa
and a biscuit, and have a natter at the
same time. We now have a regular group
of ladies, and they made items for our
Christmas window last year and the
Jubilee this year.
Is there anything exciting coming up in
the next few months that you’d like to
share with readers?
We’d only been open for six months
before the pandemic hit, so we’ve only
just started to offer workshops and
one-to-ones for people who want to
learn knitting, sewing and crochet. Our
bagmaking workshops have been very
popular and, of course, we all love to talk
about The Great British Sewing Bee. I do a
video blog on the YouTube channel every
week with analysis, patterns and fabric
suggestions. Our next project is the online
shop, which we are gradually building,
but with so many products, it’s difficult to
keep it up to date!
VISIT US!
Haberdasherdo
32A Southbourne Grove
Bournemouth
BH6 3RA
01202 428612
www.haberdasherdo.co.uk
65
 DESIGNER
SPOTLIGHT

DAVID MORRISH We sat down with David Morrish, one of the most
exciting digital embroidery designers right now!

Tell us about yourself. David has worked as a fashion

Where do I start? I have worked design academic for 13 years
for the last 13 years as a fashion
design academic at Sheffield Hallam
University, teaching design to under
and postgraduate students. I live with
my wife, 10-year-old son and four
cats in a lovely house overlooking
the hills of Yorkshire. In 2018, I
decided to return to education as a
mature student and studied towards
a master’s degree in Fashion and
Textiles at Nottingham Trent University,
where I was awarded Wilcom Digital
Embroiderer of the Year and received
a scholarship with the Embroiderers’
Guild. I have spent the last two
years exploring digital embroidery,
collaborating with various artists and
designers from different disciplines,
which ultimately led to me working
with celebrities on one-of-a-kind
pieces.

How did you get started in

digital embroidery?
I have always loved art and design from
a very young age, especially graphics
and illustration, as it was the subject I
most loved at school. Subsequentially,
I studied fashion design at Lincoln
College and then for a degree in
Fashion Design at the University of
Derby, 1996-2000.
In 2008 I emigrated to Eastern Latvia,
where to pass the time, I imported
my first digital embroidery machine,
a Janome Memory Craft 9000 hybrid
machine that I spotted on eBay. I
taught myself how to use the machine
and software and eventually started
making embroidered t-shirts, phone
cases, bags and art pieces for family
and friends. It was only really a hobby,
and I didn’t think it would become
anything more.
What have been the highlights of your
career to date?
That’s a difficult one! My career can
be split into two, which often interlink.
My academic role as a design tutor
is incredibly rewarding, helping and
nurturing other creatives to realise their
dreams. I have been honoured to have
picked up two Inspirational Teaching
awards during my time at Sheffield
Hallam, and these mean a lot to me as
it was the students who nominated me.
If they can see me achieving things and
working with celebrities, brands and
designers, why can’t they? Winning the
Wilcom award from Hand & Lock in
2019 and 2021 are noteable highlights
of my career as these helped build my
confidence to keep moving forward
and exploring digital embroidery as
a standalone art form. In terms of
actual embroidery projects, the biggest
highlight was designing a Firebird for
Natalie Imbruglia that was featured in
her first music video for the single On
My Way. I designed the Firebird with
Natalie and embroidered it on the back
of her denim jacket. It is something I
can tick off my bucket list and tell
the grandchildren.
Do you have a favourite project you
have worked on?
My favourite project to date has to be

66

Art and fashion combined
in unique garments
the jacket I made for Siobhan Murphy,
UK TV personality, fashion and interior
designer. Siobhan had 100% belief in
me and gave me full permission to see
what I could do with her old jacket. We
chose one of her images to recreate,
and I knew I wanted to go big and bold.
It was a mammoth technical challenge.
I did end up taking the whole jacket
apart, embroidering each panel and
then remaking it again.
I had never done this
before, so to do it on a
celebrity client's jacket
was risky and brave to
do (or silly, depending It is something
how you look at it).
Both Siobhan and I
I can tick off
were pleased with the my bucket list
outcome, which is
certainly unique and
and tell the
screams attention! grandchildren
Do you have any favourite
machine/equipment
that you couldn’t
live without?
I currently have a domestic and industrial
embroidery machine, both of which
are very different. For the domestic
embroidery machines, I have always
had a Janome Memory Craft; my first
was a 9000, then a 10001 and now
the 550E. It is an incredible machine
with one of the largest hoop sizes for
a domestic machine and a max stitch
limit of about 200k. It has made my life
so much easier not having to split large
designs into lots of smaller sections.
Due to the size of the machine and its
portability, I could take it outside and
embroider in the garden
for a project!
My industrial machine is
a single head, 12 needle,
ZSK Sprint Classic,
which I have only had
a few months and I am
still getting used to.
This machine is not as
portable, but runs faster,
has a larger hooping
area, and has other
attachments allowing me
to embroider on shoes
and other products. Both machines
offer something different, and they
complement each other very well in
a studio.
Dannii Minogue in on
e of
David's incredible jac
kets
David gives new life
to old denim jackets
What does the future hold for
David Morrish?
The million-dollar question! I would
love my brand to grow and be
successful; seeing people wear my
pieces would be amazing. I have
recently been filmed for a new TV
show, which hopefully will be aired
by the end of the year, but at the
moment I cannot say any more about
this exciting project! I'm writing a
book on digital embroidery, a step-
by-step project-type publication, so
readers can follow my techniques and
apply them to their own design work.
I would love to get hold of the new
Janome CM17 machine and work on
a commission from Janome; being
one of the first in the UK to use this
game-changing machine would be
an honour and privilege! Who knows
what the future will bring? Hopefully,
more exciting projects, whether
working with brands, private clients,
celebrities, students, TV, publications,
guest speaking or workshops. Watch
this space!
Find out more about David
and his incredible work at
www.kingfly.co.uk
67

A wide range of quality dressmaking
fabrics, patterns and haberdashery for
your handmade wardrobe.
Providing a friendly personal service at
affordable prices, with fully recyclable
packing.
jennystitchesfabrics
Shop online at www.jennystitches.co.uk
or visit in the shop in Cumbria.
82 Dalton Road, Barrow-in-Furness, Cumbria, LA14 1JH
68
An independent, family-run sewing store
in Sheffield.
We stock a wide range of fabrics,
including Craft Cotton Company, Kaffe
Fassett and Tula Pink, as well as a good
range of reasonable priced budget
cottons.
We also offer classes in a variety of crafts,
from patchwork to dressmaking, ceramics
to needle felting.
1a Arundel Road, Sheffield, S35 2RB
0114 245 5996
handmadehappyhare@yahoo.co.uk
www.handmadehappyhare.com
 We love
STYLE

Self draft
BUTTON
SKIRT
Draft your own stylish wrap
button skirt with Julia’s simple
step-by-step guide
Project JULIA CLARIDGE
www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

ABOUT
BOBBINS &
BUTTONS
Bobbins & Buttons is a hub of sewing
based in the East Midlands, offering
own-brand patterns, fabric and
workshops. Julia designs sewing
patterns for all the family. A collection
of fabric that suits the sewing
patterns is available. Julia offers sewing
classes that are flexible to your
skill level and geared towards what
you would like to learn.

For more information

visit Julia’s website
www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

69
 A B C D
E F G H
MATERIALS & TOOLS: the width of the skirt
• double gauze – quantity will
depend on skirt size. This skirt
was made from 1x1.38m wide
• 4-5 buttons, 30mm
• lightweight fusible interfacing
CUTTING
This skirt is made from a
simple rectangle of fabric.
To decide on the size to
cut, hold a tape measure at
your waist to help visualise
how long you want the
skirt. A metre will finish as a
90cm length at the back of
the skirt. The asymmetrical
front will hang lower.
For the width, you need
approximately 50cm wider
than your hip measurement.
For larger sizes or narrow
width fabrics, you may need
to join two pieces of fabric
and create a centre back
seam. For wider fabric and
smaller sizes, you may
be able to use one
continuous piece.
Cut the rectangle, check
with a ruler that the
rectangle is squared.
Cut a 4cm strip of interfacing
70
minus 8cm.
HOW TO MAKE:
1 Turn and press a narrow
1cm turning around all edges
of the rectangle. (See Pic A.)
2 Turn and press a further
4cm, turning around all
edges. (See Pic B.)
3 Open out the turned edge
on one of the long edges.
Place the interfacing in line
with the fold and press to
fuse to the fabric. Refold and
press the turning. (See Pic C.)
4 Open out the 4cm turning
and fold the corner towards
the centre until the pressed
fold lines line up. Press the
corner to create more fold
lines. (See Pic D.)
5 Turn the hemline back
in place and press, creating
new fold lines diagonally
across the corner. (See Pic E.)
6 Open the hem out again
(keep the 1cm turning turned
in). With RST pin across
the diagonal line, stitch.
(See Pic F.)
7 Trim away the excess from
the corner. Turn back to the
right side. Repeat with all
 I

four corners. (See Pic G.)

8 Re-press the turnings if
needed and pin the inner
edge around the whole
piece. Stitch close to the
edge. (See Pic H.)
9 Wrap the skirt around
yourself and pin it so it is
secure around the waist. Lay
the wrapped front in place
and pin along the skirt edge
where you would like the
skirt to sit when buttoned
up. (See Pic I.)
 Create four or more
buttonholes in the upper
front, starting from a point
that will fit your waist.
Stitch the buttons behind
the buttonholes so that the
upper front sits along the
pinned line you created.
(See Pic J.)

Shopping list
Check double gauze in lapis
blue and yellow, £21.00 per metre
www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

71
 Dressmaking
DILEMMAS
Solve your dressmaking dilemmas
With Elisalex with Elisalex de Castro Peake's
new column

Submit your dressmaking dilemma

on Instagram byhandlondon

72
 ABOUT
ELISALEX
By Hand
Elisalex is the Head of Design and London's Lizz
co-founder of By Hand London, an
independent pattern company. It dress is ideal
produces gorgeously designed, high-
quality patterns that are available as
for a fluctuating
PDF downloads through the site
www.byhandlondon.com
figure

I
t’s time to shake things up a bit!
The Dressmaker’s Diary is now
Dressmaking Dilemmas, and my
lifelong dream of becoming an Agony
Aunt has come true! Each month, I will
pick three of your sewing dilemmas
to answer – which you will be able
to submit when prompted over on
Instagram byhandlondon. Remember,
there’s no such thing as a silly question! I
want to hear all your sewing room woes,
frustrations and head-scratchers and
hopefully shed some light each month
here on these pages. Ask me anything!

“I’m nursing so my proportions are

different than usual – anything I
make likely won’t fit in a year or
two.” maker.meghan
I’ve been there, and I feel your pain!
Dressing for a fluctuating figure, let
alone sewing for a fluctuating figure,
can be difficult at best and downright
disheartening at worst. When your
usual favourite clothes feel tight and
uncomfortable, and
you’re learning to
accept your body the
way it is right now,
having a handful of There's no
patterns that you
know fit well and feel such thing as a
great can be a saving
grace. But how do
silly question!
you get motivated to
sew when most of the
things you need right
now will likely be too big before long? The
answer is surprisingly simple and satisfying
– focus on adjustable sewing garments!
That way, whatever you make now will
fit for years to come, despite inevitable
weight fluctuations or even the odd
food baby!
Look for patterns that feature wrap styles,
such as By Hand London’s Hannah
dress, which is also a brilliant choice for
nursing! Loose-fit dresses that can be
slipped over the head with waist ties to
create shape are ideal, and I love that they
can be loosened after a big meal! The
Tamzin dress and Alix dress are both great
options. Trapeze or oversized dresses are
an obvious choice
and super on trend
these days. Styles
like the Zero Waste
Gather Dress by
Birgitta Helmersson
and By Hand
London’s Lizz dress
will work beautifully
for a fluctuating
figure. Finally,
anything with shirring
and/or elastic is a great choice and can
be really adaptable for nursing!
“I HATE toile-ing! Can I hold paper
pattern pieces up to my body
instead?” jackalaaa
OK, so I have good news and bad news…
The good news is that you can hold
paper pattern pieces up to your body to
check fit, but the bad news is that it isn’t
going to save you any time or effort! The
tissue fitting method, as made famous
by Pati Palmer’s book Fit For Real People
(my bible!), has you assemble tissue
pattern pieces and pin them to your
body (wearing undergarments, of course)
and from there assess the fit, slashing
and spreading or pinching the tissue to
start alterations. This method of checking
fit and making initial alterations can only
be achieved with tissue paper, so your
copyshop or PDF printouts won’t work
as the paper is too stiff. This method is
also not by any means a shortcut – it’s
a process in and of itself, and you would
always have to make a toile to check
any alterations made based on the tissue
fit check. In my personal experience, I
prefer to make a toile right from the
get-go as opposed to checking the fit
with the tissue paper, as I find it to be
very delicate and liable to tear when
trying it on, especially if you’re fitting solo
and trying to assess and fix fit issues on
your back!
As far as shortcuts go when it comes to
fitting, instead of holding pattern pieces
up to your body as a quick fit check, it’s
actually much faster and more accurate
to check the finished measurements and
compare those to your measurements.
The pattern’s booklet should tell

73
 Birgitta Helmersson's
Zero Waste Gather Dress
you the finished bust, waist and hip
measurements (some patterns may
also include things like crotch length,
bicep circumference and skirt length
in their finished measurements). But
you can take your tape measure to the
pattern to investigate further; vertical
measurements will give you a better idea
of proportion. Shoulder seam to apex is
a good indicator of whether or not you
might need to lower the apex, shoulder
seam to waist will tell you if you need to
add or remove length from the bodice,
and so on.
Take your tape
measure to
the pattern to
investigate further
I wish I could give you a secret cheat
technique to bypass the toile-ing stage
and still get a great fit, but I’m afraid it
doesn’t exist – not that I know of, at
74
least! My best advice is always to make
your peace with the toile-ing process
and get used to doing it as often as
possible to hone your skills and grow
your confidence – just as you did when
learning to sew!
“My dressmaking dilemma is picking
the fabric! (I have the same issue
picking nail colour) I don’t want
to make a wrong decision!”
good_fabric_store
I struggle with this too! It can be hard
to imagine a roll of fabric as a finished
garment. When you have so many
fabrics to choose from, indecision and
overwhelm can quickly set in…
Like most things, this gets easier with
time, but when you’re starting out, or if
you’re struggling with fabric and pattern
pairing at any time, there are a few things
you can do to narrow down your options
and deepen your understanding of
fabrics and how they will translate into
actual garments.
Don’t go off piste – go fabric shopping
for a specific pattern and take the list of
fabric recommendations to narrow your
search. If a silk twill catches your eye, but
Shirring is adaptable
for nursing
silk twill is not on the list, move on!
Go pretend shopping – A great way to
become more familiar with how different
fabrics lend themselves to certain
garment styles is by visiting shops you
like and paying attention to the fabric
composition and handle of garments
similar to ones you would sew. Take
some items into the changing rooms
and photograph the style and fabric info
labels (if you’re allowed to, of course!).
Close your eyes and feel the fabric –
the weight, the texture, the drape and
commit that to muscle memory so you
can do the same in a fabric store (eyes
closed again – it helps to dissociate from
the visual of the roll of fabric).
Don’t be afraid to ask! – People of all
sewing levels struggle at times to pair a
pattern with the best fabric, especially
if it’s a special occasion sew, so please
never feel embarrassed to ask! Fabric
shop attendants -both in person and
online- will be more than able to advise
you and will usually really enjoy helping
you find the perfect fabric.
 SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY
ABERDEENSHIRE BRADFORD BRISTOL BRISTOL

Facebook and Instagram:

bombaystores_fabrics
Youtube: Bombay Stores Fabrics

We are a 53 year old brand specialising in

batiks, silks, cotton and other wide ranges
of fabrics and haberdashery!

Bombay Buildings, Shearbridge Road,

Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD7 1NX
Tel: 01274 729993 16 WHITEHOUSE STREET, BEDMINSTER,
www.bombaystoresfabrics.co.uk BRISTOL, BS3 4AY

BRISTOL BURTON UPON TRENT CAMBRIDGE CHESHIRE

Debby's Patch Haberdashery We stock lots of wonderful fabrics for

Visit us in store or online
to see our range of Dress Fabrics,
Patchwork Fabrics from Makower, Moda,
Riley Blake and many more, plus knitting
yarn and haberdashery.
19 Badminton Road
Downend
Bristol BS16 6BB
Tel. 0117 329 3857
www.fabrics-plus.co.uk
info@fabrics-plus.co.uk
crafting, dressmaking, soft furnishings,
With Online shop Sew Knit Craft is a friendly, family run upholstry
A must visit for all sewing enthusiasts, new craft shop in the centre of Cambridge. Also a fabulous selection of buttons,
starters and professionals trims, and haberdashery
Stockists of Simplicity, Prym, Clover, Sewing Machines Why not pay us a visit? We're at
Hemline, Trimits, Mettler, Quilt as you go, Fabric, Threads, Yarn 3-7 Tatton Road, Sale, M33 7EB
Tilda, Bonfanti, Mouline, Mrs H, a wide Knitting & Crochet Tools T: 07540 634351
E: djpproducts@msn.com
range of fabrics. Haberdashery
open Tuesday – Saturday 10 - 4 Craft Room Furniture Facebook: @BlueButtonDesigns
Plenty of parking, Cafe and other shops in
the courtyard The crafting hub for Cambridge
Unit 5, Craythorne farm, Craythorne road,
Stretton, Burton upon Trent, DE13 0AZ 58 King Street, Cambridge, CB1 1LN
07917728701
01223 350 691
www.debbyspatch.co.uk www.sewknitcraftltd.com

CUMBRIA CUMBRIA CUMBRIA DERBYSHIRE

Dollys Fabric
34 malthouse Lane, Nether
Stockists of dressmaking, quilting and bag
Heage, Derbyshire, DE56 2AS
making fabrics, a wide range haberdashery
07807019839
JUST SEW and independent sewing patterns
Poets Walk, Penrith, Cumbria, 2 Market Street, Ulverston, Welcome to Dollys Fabric based in Nether
CA11 7HJ Cumbria, LA12 7AY Heage. Small but bursting with gorgeous
Tel: 01768 866791 fabrics from Rose & Hubble, John Louden,
07496 506421
• A real aladdin’s cave of fabric just Craft Cotton Company, Cotton Poplins,
https://thelakesfabricstore.co.uk/
waiting to be made into something Jersey, Viscose, Cuddle Fleece.
gorgeous! I stock a large range of Style Arc Patterns,
We stock a wide range of patchwork along with buttons, charms, and all your
and dress fabrics as well as sewing needs.
haberdashery, patterns and threads.
Come and browse or order online with free
www.justsewpenrith.co.uk
delivery on orders over £35.00

DEVON DORSET DUMFRIES EAST SUSSEX

Large selection of
haberdashery
Haberdashery and Sewing School
Fabrics, yarns,
embroidery & 180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ
tapestry threads, 01387250867 07881361978
romyssewingrooms@gmail.com
Sewing, knitting & crochet patterns.
Friendly & sound advice www.romys-sewing.co.uk
Shop selling Fabrics, Patterns,
32A Southbourne Grove, Southbourne, Haberdashery
Bournemouth, Dorset, BH6 3RA
01202 428612 Sewing classes/workshops starting soon.
www.haberdasherdo.co.uk

75
 SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY
EAST YORKSHIRE GLASGOW GLOUCESTERSHIRE GLOUCESTERSHIRE
West
West End
End Sewing Centre Ltd
Sewing Centre Ltd
Offering
Offering aa unique
unique Family run Business
Family run Business
selling
selling quality
quality Famous Manufacturers of
Famous Manufacturers of
Sewing Machines from £100.
Sewing Machines from £100. Bernina,Bernina,
Janome, Juki, Bernette. All our Prices
Janome, Juki, Bernette. All our Prices
Sewing supplies & fabrics all under match or even beatbeat
prices on the
one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry match or even prices on internet.
the
internet.
Burton is one of the leading fabric Demonstrations, after sales help,
stockists in the area. Visit our store workshops, training,
Demonstrations, part
after exchange
sales help,
today and you will find exactly what discounts, plus Service
workshops, training,and
partRepairs
exchange to any
you are looking for. Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery make of Domestic
discounts, Sewing
plus Service and Machines.
Repairs to
Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns any make of Domestic Sewing Machines.
11 Henrietta Street
The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Weekly Make Space Group Cheltenham
Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, 11 Henrietta Street, Cheltenham
39 Parsonage Street GL50 4AA
GL50 4AA
Beverley, HU17 7RA 01242 244025
01242 244025
info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.westendsewing.co.uk
www.westendsewing.co.uk
Call: 01964 551 955 www.inchesfabrics.co.uk info@westendsewing.co.uk
info@westendsewing.co.uk

GREATER MANCHESTER HALIFAX HAMPSHIRE HERTFORDSHIRE

BUTTONS AND BOWS

PLUS FABRIC
You will find a great range
of fabrics and an extensive selection
The Fabbadashery of haberdashery and trim,
Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful you won’t be disappointed. 
Buttons and Truly Scrumptious
Trimmings. Sewing and craft classes available
too in our ‘Making It - Not Wasting It!’
Craft Workshops Every Week! workshop.
hello@thefabbadashery.com Stevenage Indoor Market, Hertfordshire,
www.thefabbadashery.com SG1 1EP
01422 647574
07396 499 085
10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX Facebook: Buttons and Bows plus Fabric

HERTFORDSHIRE IPSWICH KENT KENT

LINCOLNSHIRE MID WALES NORFOLK NORFOLK

76
 SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY
NORTH YORKSHIRE NORTHUMBERLAND NOTTINGHAMSHIRE SCARBOROUGH

Learn how to make clothes

Studio Shop, London Road,
Newark, NG24 1TN
Sewing & craft lessons, art textile
courses, fabric, handmade gifts
www.craftybetty.org
with Carol at Material Moves.
Workshops and Courses take place
in the fully equipped 1st floor studio.
Online classes available.
Gorgeous selection of good quality dress fabrics
many Oeko-Tex and Organic
Sewing Machines and Overlockers in stock
Authorised Husquvarna Viking Dealer.
Haberdashery - Indie Patterns - Sewing Books
Craft lights - Sewing Baskets and more
All available in the Scarborough shop
See Online at www.materialmoves.co.uk

SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND

A friendly fabric shop,
Pembertons based in Inverness and
online, our aim is to help
OF STIRLING you match beautiful fabrics
We sell and service a wide range of with independent dress-
sewing machines plus accessories making patterns, find the
and parts. We also have a fantastic right haberdashery for your
project and increase your
range of dress and craft fabrics and sewing confidence with our
sell Simplicity & New Look patterns. kits and classes.
Our Haberdashery department has The Wee
everything from buttons to bows. Fabric Shop
Please ask if you are looking for
21 Tomatin Road,
something special. Inverness
www.psmc.co.uk IV2 4UA
01786 462993 (01463) 263 007
21-25 Friars Street, Stirling, FK8 1HA www.thewee
fabricshop.co.uk

SHEFFIELD SOUTH WALES ST AUSTELL

J & B Sewing Machine Co Ltd
An independent, family-run sewing store in Sheffield.

We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Craft Cotton

Company, Kaffe Fassett and Tula Pink, as well as a good
range of reasonable priced budget cottons.

We also offer classes in a variety of crafts, from patchwork

to dressmaking, ceramics to needle felting.
1 Biddicks Court,
1a Arundel Road,
Sheffield, St Austell, PL25 5EW
S35 2RB Tel: 01726 75385
0114 245 5996 * Workshops & Classes * Coffee mornings * Brother, Bernina, Janome, Baby Lock, Elna, Email: sewandfabric@yahoo.
handmadehappyhare@ Bernette sewing machines * Training Courses * Fabrics * Grace Quilting Machines & Frames *
co.uk
yahoo.co.uk Curlew Close Gripoly Mills

www.handmadehappyhare.com
Queensway Meadows
Newport NP19 4SY
01633 284646
www.jbsewing.com Sloper Road
Cardiff CF11 8AA
02922 402418
Find us on Facebook

STOKE-ON-TRENT TEWKESBURY

Silks & Velvet

Natural, printed & dyed
(over 80 colours) To advertise please
Small quantities at wholesale contact Noune on
prices (min. 1/2m)
noune.sarkissian
www.beckfordsilk.co.uk
01386 881 507 @practicalpublishing.co.uk
Nr. Tewkesbury, Glos. GL20 7AU

77
 We love ABOUT DEBBIE
HOME Debbie von Grabler-Crozier
designs modern homeware
and bag patterns. Discover
more about Debbie at
www.thefolkartfactory.com
and on Instagram craftyvamp
Shop a wide range of modern
bag patterns at www.
thefolkartfactory.etsy.com

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

• ½ yd. fabric A
• 11” fabric B
• ¼ yd. fabric C
• ¼ yd. fabric D
• ½ yd. Fabric E
• ¼ yd. fabric F
• ½ yd. fabric for binding
• 46” fabric for backing
• 45” #279 Vlieseline 80/20 cotton
mix wadding
• fat quarter fusible Bondaweb
• large letter dies or templates for
the letters W, I, L, D, a, n, d, F, R,
E, E
• 1 ball of cotton yarn to match one
of the fabrics
• finer thread to tie off the tassels &
sew them on
• fork pins
• small metal rings
• large tassel maker
• co-ordinating threads for all
fabrics & trims

NOTES:
Seam allowances are all ¼” and have
already been added.

CUTTING:
From fabric A, cut:
• 3 7 ¼” squares to make the
Flying Geese
• 2 strips 1 ½” wide x 8” long for the
Bear Paw sashes
• 4 squares 3” square for the half

Wild Wall
Bear Paw block cornerstones
• The words WILD and FREE
From fabric B, cut:
• 2 strips 37/8” wide x width of fabric
(WOF), sub-cut into 12 squares to

QUILT
make the Flying Geese
• 1 strip 3” wide x WOF, sub-cut into
12 squares for the Bear Paw block
From fabric C, cut:
• 1 strip 3 ¾” wide x WOF, sub-cut
into 8 squares for the Bear Paw
Set your spirits free sewing Half Square Triangles (HSTs)
• 2 strips 2” wide x 33” long for the
this fun quilted wall art sashes either side of the Bear
Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER Paw panel

78
 A B
E F
I J
From fabric D, cut:
• 1 strip 3 ¾” wide x WOF, sub-cut
into 8 squares for the Bear
Paw HSTs
• 2 strips 3 ½” wide x 33” long for
the top and bottom sashes
From fabric E:
• 1 piece 13 ½” wide x 33” long for
the background for the text
From fabric F:
• 2 strips 2” wide x 33” long for the
sashes under and over the Flying
Geese panel
• 4 squares 3” sq. for the Bear
Paw blocks
From the binding fabric:
• 150” bias binding cut 1 ½” wide.
From the backing fabric:
• 1 piece to measure 37” wide x
44” long
From the wadding:
• 1 piece to measure 35” wide x
42” long
PREPARATION
Make the Bear Paw blocks, for
each block you will need:
• 2 sashes (orange solid)
• 4 squares (dark green solid)
• 12 squares (floral)
• 16 HST units (made from 8
squares each of dark brown solid/
orange floral)
• 4 cornerstones (orange solid)
1 Make the Half Square
Triangle (HST). Place solid
dark brown and orange floral
squares RST and draw a line
diagonally. Sew a ¼” seam
on either side of the line. Cut
along the original line. Open
out, press and trim to 3”
square. Make another 7.
(See pics A & B.)
2 Row one of the block is an
orange solid and two HST
units. Row two is an HST unit
and two floral squares. Row
three is an HST unit, a floral
and a dark green solid.
(See Pic C.)
3 Make another three-quarter
block. Join two together with
a solid orange sash. Join them
in the centre so you have four
in a row (See pics D & E.)
4 Make the Flying Geese. Pin
two floral squares, RST onto
an orange square, one in each
diagonal corner. Draw a line
diagonally right down the
C D
G H
K L
centre of both squares. Sew a
¼” seam on either side of the
line you have drawn. Cut along
the original line. (See pics F
& G.)
5 Fold the two floral triangles
up and press to make a heart
shape. Place two remaining
floral squares onto the bottom
corners of large triangles RST.
Pin and draw the diagonal line.
Sew the ¼” seam on either
side of this line. Cut along the
original line. Repeat with the
other piece. Open the four
units out, press and trim. Make
another 7. (See pics H & I.)
6 Assemble the Flying Geese
into a row of 11. (See Pic J.)
7 Fuse Bondaweb to the WS
side of fabrics for words. Cut
words out. Make nine tassels
roughly 4 ½” long using a
tassel maker.
HOW TO MAKE
1 Assemble quilt top in the
following rows – orange sash,
dark green solid, Flying Geese
Panel, dark green solid, text
panel, dark brown sash, Bear
Paw blocks, thin dark brown
sash, and the final orange
floral. (See Pic K.)
2 Tear paper off Bondaweb
and fuse words centrally to
text panel. Trim. Pin backing
(RS facing down), wadding and
quilt top (RS facing up), then
quilt with your favourite design.
(See Pic L.)
3 Trim and square the quilt.
Round the corners. Bind with
bias binding. Attach tassels
to the bottom edge with the
extra-long top thread. Stitch
rings to back and hang.
Shopping list
The Gloria collection by Maureen
Cracknell, the Floral Elements
collection and the Pure Elements
collection by Art Gallery Fabrics
www.artgalleryfabrics.com
Discover your nearest UK stockist at
www.hantex.co.uk and European
stockists at www.adlico.dk
For a wide range of Vlieseline
products visit www.vlieseline.com
Discover more about Clover products
from www.clover-mfg.com
79
 Next month in Sizes
XS-XXL

T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E

2 TREATS
FOR YOU
worth over £22

Butterick 6551
Shaped hemline dress
Threadcount 2114
3-in-1 quick-make dress

Inspiring articles,projects
and guides:
P Learn how to shorten coat sleeves
P Master collar stands
P Discover new zip techniques
P Ideas for sewing with kids
P Quick-make bags & gifts to sew tonight!
P Scrap-busting projects for your home

Plus much more!

80
ISSUE 110 ON SALE 4TH AUGUST

3-IN-1
QUICK-SEW
DRESS
Sizes S -XL

SEWING BEE
Perfect for DUSTER JACKET
holidays!

Never miss
an issue!
See page 46 for
our subscriber FABULOUSLY FLOATY
offer!
SUMMER DRESSES

Peake
PExpert guidance from Amy Scarr P Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castro
e Hardie
P Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE P Top techniques from Claire-Louis

Contents and on-sale date subject to change. Some treats not available in all territories 81
 This month, 1'm making
TRUE BIAS RORY
Karen Rubio @knipsterk
JUMPSUIT
Terri Dodds shares her take on this contemporary
jumpsuit pattern. See more of Terri’s makes at
Fa Sew La on www.minerva.com

T
he Rory Jumpsuit from True Bias is
a pattern I’ve wanted to revisit for a
long time; I made the shorts view as a
pattern tester a few years ago. It was so cute,
but I didn’t wear it a lot because I had a couple
of fitting issues that I needed to fix. When I got
this pretty green linen from Minerva, I decided
it was high time I made myself another Rory!
nice deep pockets! I used some scraps of
Liberty lawn for the bias tape that finishes the
armscyes. No one will ever see it, but it makes
me so happy to have that pretty floral inside my
jumpsuit! The linen is lovely to sew with and to
wear. I love the light olive-green colour. I know
this will be a summertime favourite for me!

Even though I’d made this pattern before, I

started with a muslin for this different view.
I am so glad I did because the body was too
long on me, and the crotch needed raising
substantially. I also wanted my jumpsuit to
have a bit less ease than the way the pattern is
drafted, so I went down a size from what I had
made before. I took 2” out of the length of the
body at the lengthen/shorten line and took an
additional 1.25” out of the front crotch length.
That adjustment really helped me to get the fit
I was hoping for!

For the first time, I created a high rounded-

THE MINERVA
MAKERS
Minerva’s online platform
is dedicated to makers and
sewists and allows you to
share your latest projects in
a new interactive way. Not
only can you post photos and
videos of your own makes,
but you can also ‘like’ and
‘comment’ on other makers'
posts, follow them and find
out all about the fabric and
pattern supplies they’ve
used in their projects. So
much inspiration!
Discover more at
www.minerva.com
back adjustment since I had some gaping on
the back armscye in my muslin; this was a
simple slash and spread adjustment to the
inner back piece, and it really made a
difference. I played around with the side
seams after I sewed my jumpsuit together
because it was looser than I wanted
initially. After a couple of tries with
tacking the side seams, I landed on my
perfect loose-but-not-too-loose fit.
This pattern is fun to sew! I love the
seamed panels down the front and back,
which are a fantastic opportunity to
add some topstitching. The front patch
pockets are a great detail – I love having
Terri says...
I love having nice,
deep pockets!
Find Terri on Instagram terridod
ds1

82
Allstore Storeaway
Watersmeet 2.0
The Allstore Watersmeet is
a complete sewing station.
Offering plenty of storage
included; 33 boxes and 12
trays, for all of your sewing
stash and accessories, and
also two built in desks and
lights to give you plenty of
room to create. Furniture is
supplied flat packed.
Dimensions
• Height: 189 cm (74.5”) 
• Width:  94 cm (37”)
closed / 188 cm (74”)
open
• Depth: 65 cm  (26”)
closed / 160 cm (63”)
open with desks down

£2,124.15*
with code
LS109
SAVE
(Normally
£2,499)
*including free flat packed delivery
Code expires 31/08/2022
15%
saving over £3
00.

@Storage4Crafts @Storage4Crafts storage4crafts

Visit: Storage4Crafts.com Call: 0800 048 8606

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 8
84