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Journal
Review
Peter M. Elias, MD
Department of Dermatology, University of California (UC) San Francisco and Veteran Affairs (VA) Medical Center, San Francisco, California
Key Messages
Optimal barrier function is required for mammalian life and survival in a desiccating terrestrial environment.
Loss-of-function mutations in filaggrin and other genes provoke similar, atopic dermatitis (AD)−like phenotypes.
Therapy with most over-the-counter moisturizers compromises barrier function further in AD mouse models.
Triple lipid-based therapies, comprising an optimized ratio of ceramides (3), cholesterol (1), and free fatty acids (1), normalize barrier
function in AD.
Topical applications of an optimized ratio formulation have proven as effective as a fluorinated midpotency steroid (fluticasone) in pediat-
ric AD.
Studies are underway to determine whether this form of therapy will prevent the atopic march.
A R T I C L E I N F O A B S T R A C T
Article history: Objective: We compared the principal characteristics of over-the-counter moisturizers with physiological lipid-
Received for publication December 2, 2021. based barrier repair therapy (BRT).
Received in revised form January 13, 2022. Data Sources: An extended literature reported that moisturizers are considered standard ancillary therapy for
Accepted for publication January 14, 2022.
anti-inflammatory skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis (AD). Additional studies have found that physiological
lipid-based BRT can comprise effective, stand-alone therapy for pediatric AD.
Results: Not all moisturizers are beneficial—some negatively impact skin function, and in doing so, they risk inducing
or exacerbating inflammation in patients with AD. The frequent self-reported occurrences of sensitive skin in patients
with AD could reflect the potential toxicity of such formulations. A still unanswered question is whether improper for-
mulations could also prove to be counterproductive in other types of sensitive skin, such as rosacea. In contrast, we
found how physiological lipid-based BRT (when comprised of the 3 key stratum corneum lipids in sufficient quantities
and at an appropriate molar ratio) can correct the barrier abnormality, thereby reducing inflammation in AD and pos-
sibly in other inflammatory dermatoses, such as adult eczemas and possibly even psoriasis.
Conclusion: We provide guidelines for the appropriate dispensation of moisturizers and physiological lipid-
based, BRT for the treatment of AD. Both over-the-counter (Atopalm) and prescription (EpiCeram) products are
available in the United States with these characteristics.
© 2022 American College of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology. Published by Elsevier Inc. This is an open access arti-
cle under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/)
Reprints: Peter M. Elias, MD, Dermatology Service, San Francisco VA Medical Center, Funding: Research reported in this publication was supported by the National Institute
4150 Clement Street, MS 190, San Francisco, CA 94121. E-mail: peter.elias@ucsf.edu. of Arthritis, Musculoskeletal, and Skin Diseases of the National Institutes of Health
Disclosures: Dr Elias is a coinventor of EpiCeram, licensed from the University of Cali- under Award Number R01 AR061106, administered by the Northern California Insti-
fornia to Primus Pharmaceuticals, LLC, Scottsdale, Arizona. This content is solely the tute for Research and Education, with additional resources provided by the Veterans
responsibility of the author and does not necessarily represent the official views of Affairs Medical Center, San Francisco.
either the National Institutes of Health or the Department of Veterans Affairs.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.anai.2022.01.012
1081-1206/© 2022 American College of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology. Published by Elsevier Inc. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/)
506 P.M. Elias / Ann Allergy Asthma Immunol 128 (2022) 505−511
included in such preparations for marketing purposes. Most impor- Pathogenic Role of an Elevated pH in Atopic Dermatitis
tantly, as described below, if the ceramide is provided without the
An inevitable consequence both of the flawed barrier and inflam-
addition of the other 2 key physiological lipids at an appropriate ratio
mation in AD is an elevation in the pH of the skin surface.44 The dele-
(ie, with cholesterol and 1 or more free fatty acids), barrier function
terious consequences of an elevated pH in AD include activation of
deteriorates rather than improves.39 Studies have found that all 3
yet another outside-to-inside cytokine cascade that begins with the
constituents must be provided together in an equimolar ratio to
activation of the serine protease (KLK), KLK5, followed by the genera-
restore barrier function after disruption of normal skin.39
tion of the pro-TH2 cytokine, thymic stromal lymphopoietin, which,
in turn, recruits the TH2 and TH17 cells that secrete the “bad” cyto-
kines (ie, IL-4, IL-5, IL-13, IL-17A, and IL-33)45 (Fig 1). TH2 cytokines
Improperly Formulated Moisturizers Can Harm Individuals With
further compromise the barrier by downregulating the synthesis of
Flawed Barriers
the following: (1) epidermal structural proteins46; (2) tight junction
In a sensitive-skin animal model, we recently identified a serious proteins47; (3) ceramides48; (4) fatty acid elongases49; and (5) a key
flaw with most moisturizers that are currently on the market.40 antimicrobial peptide, LL-37.50 Hence, the initial outside-to-inside
Although they may seem harmless when applied to normal skin that cytokine cascade in AD quickly morphs into an “outside-to-inside-
displays a robust barrier, many of these products could prove to be back-to-outside” vicious circle.51 Furthermore, KLKs exhibit a neutral
toxic when and if they are applied to the skin of individuals with self- to alkaline pH optimum, and their activation at the neutral pH of AD
reported “sensitive” skin, likely also including patients with a history further compromises a set of other critical functions (Fig 1). Finally,
of AD.40 Yet, these products are rarely tested in such at-risk individu- whereas the low pH of normal SC (ie, 4.5-5) inhibits the growth of S.
als; instead, such patients are typically specifically excluded from any aureus and Streptococcus pyogenes, the normal flora (eg, Staphylococ-
such investigations. The bottom line is that although short-term relief cus epidermidis and Corynebacterium) instead thrive at a lower
may be obtained with these agents, if they further disrupt the skin pH.44,52 In contrast, the elevated pH of inflamed skin in AD further
barrier, they can initiate a vicious cycle that requires repeated appli- favors pathogen colonization and growth.
cations of the same or alternate products.
Figure 1. Barrier-initiated cytokine cascade leads to multiple downstream consequences in atopic dermatitis (modified from Elias et al. J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2014;134(4):781-791
e1).14 GM-CSF, granulocyte-macrophage colony-stimulating factor; IL-1, interleukin-1; KLK, kallikrein; NF-kB, nuclear factor kappa B; TNFa, tumor necrosis factor-alpha; TSLP, thy-
mic stromal lymphopoietin.
508 P.M. Elias / Ann Allergy Asthma Immunol 128 (2022) 505−511
Figure 2. Multiple downstream consequences of filaggrin deficiency in atopic dermatitis (modified from Elias et al. J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2014;134(4):781-791 e1).14
By hydrating the SC, moisturizers can alleviate the xerosis, which is a oil can cause allergic contact dermatitis. Residents of the cutaneous
prominent feature of AD, but they have not yet been found to provide microbiome generate metabolites, notably a commensal bacteria
stand-alone therapy even for mild cases of AD. Moreover, whether metabolite, N-palmitoyl serinol (Neuromide has been registered with
they truly prevent the initial development of AD, as suggested in sev- the US Food and Drug Administration as drug master file type IV), stim-
eral recent studies,57,58 is debatable, because another recent study ulate epidermal ceramide synthesis by activating endocannabinoid
failed to exhibit any preventive benefits of moisturizer therapy receptors.64 Activation of one such receptor, CB-1, results in benefits for
alone.59 the barrier.65,66 N-palmitoyl serinol (Neuromide) has exhibited remark-
able efficacy as a probarrier,66 anti-inflammatory,64,67 and anti-aging
ingredient68 in both in vitro and in vivo models.
Physiological Lipid-Based Therapy of Atopic Dermatitis
Topically applied physiological lipids, in contrast with moisturizers,
Efficacy of Triple Physiological Lipid-Based, Barrier Repair
do not form an occlusive layer on the SC surface. Instead, they are
Therapy in Atopic Dermatitis
quickly absorbed into the underlying nucleated cell layers, which they
incorporate into nascent lamellar bodies as they form in the trans- Unlike moisturizers, topical ceramide-dominant, triple lipid prod-
Golgi apparatus of stratum spinosum and granulosum cells.39 There, ucts amplify lipid production and delivery to the SC intercellular
the absorbed lipids join with denovo synthesized lipids immediately spaces, replenishing the lamellar bilayers that are critical for normal
before their secretion into the extracellular spaces. But as illustrated in barrier function and antimicrobial defense. Chamlin et al69 evaluated
Figure 1, not only the synthesis but also the secretion of lipids is 24 pediatric patients with recalcitrant AD. Whereas all of these
impaired in AD, resulting in a global reduction in the “big 3” physiolog- patients continued to use standard therapy (including potent topical
ical lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids). Therefore, steroids and/or tacrolimus), the sole intervention was the substitu-
when addressing first the reduced lipid content of the SC in AD (ie, tion of a ceramide-dominant, triple lipid product for each patient’s
from 10% to 5% of the weight of normal SC), these physiological lip- prior moisturizer. Follow-up SCORAD scores revealed a rapid
ids ideally should be provided at a high final concentration of at least improvement in clinical scores in 22/24 patients. Not only did clinical
5%. Then, because of the further TH2-cytokine−induced reduction in scores improve, but both epidermal barrier function and SC cohesion
ceramide content of the SC,48 the 3 lipids ideally should be provided as also improved. Ultrastructure of lipid-treated human epidermis
a ceramide-dominant mixture (ie, at approximately a 3:1:1 molar revealed enhanced lamellar membrane production, a change that
ratio),39 with a natural or synthetic ceramide as the dominant species. was absent from patients who had been previously treated with com-
In light of the deleterious pH abnormality in AD, this final formu- mon moisturizers.69 More recently, a ceramide-dominant, triple lipid
lation should ideally be adjusted to a pH of less than or equal to 5 to prescription formulation (EpiCeram emulsion) also improved skin
compensate for the elevated pH of inflamed skin in AD. As noted barrier function in comparison to conventional moisturizers in AD
above, lowering the pH of the SC alone provides numerous potential patients.70 This ceramide-dominant product was then assessed in a
benefits, including reductions in inflammation while also enhancing multicenter, investigator-blinded, comparative study of 121 pediatric
the permeability barrier, SC cohesion, and antimicrobial defense. The patients, 6 months to 12 years, with moderate-to-severe AD.71
free fatty acids in the formulation not only are critical for the barrier Patients were randomized to either EpiCeram alone or a midpotency,
and as acidifying agents, but some also activate PPARa and PPARb/d, fluorinated steroid, fluticasone (Cutivate) cream. By 28 days, patients
improving epidermal function and further reducing inflammation.33 treated with EpiCeram alone exhibited reductions in SCORAD scores
In addition, fatty acid activators of PPARs can: (1) prevent the emer- that were comparable to fluticasone. Moreover, EpiCeram treatment
gence of steroid adverse effects60; (2) override the negative effects of not only reduced disease severity but also pruritus AD, while improv-
calcineurin inhibitors on barrier function61; and (3) prevent rebound ing sleep quality with an efficacy comparable to fluticasone. Although
flares after the withdrawal of topical steroids.51 Finally, several topi- not yet formally evaluated, I recommend applications of EpiCeram
cal ingredients, including the triple lipids and even petrolatum, have before steroid delivery, thereby providing a more hydrophobic envi-
been reported to enhance epidermal production of the key antimicro- ronment for drug delivery. Together, this information provides guide-
bial peptide, LL-37.62 lines for the utilization of a physiological lipid-based, barrier repair
approach as therapy in the treatment of AD.
phosphodiesterase 4 inhibitors), and in adults with recalcitrant, mod- inhibitor. The KLKs not only are directly destructive, but they also
erate-to-severe AD, systemic biologics (eg, IL-4, IL13, IL17, or IL-33 bind to and activate plasminogen activator type 2 receptors, which,
inhibitors). But in clinical settings, management should not lose focus in turn, block lamellar body secretion77 and provoke pruritus.78 How-
on the skin barrier. Clinicians are presented with many choices for ever, small peptide inhibitors of plasminogen activator type 2 recep-
managing the compromised barrier that is a central participant in AD tors are yet to enter the therapeutic armamentarium for AD. Because
pathogenesis. Though parsing through these choices can be difficult, reduced exposure to the benefits of suberythemogenic ultraviolet B
many moisturizers seem to provide little or no benefit, and as noted has been proposed as a key factor in the recent, urban resurgence of
above, some could even be harmful.40 AD,79 it would seem prudent to recommend moderate amounts of
Animal studies suggest that moisturizers alone, by restoring SC exposure to ambient ultraviolet B as a part of the management plan
hydration, reduce cytokine production, mast cell hypertrophy and for patients with AD. Finally, not only PPAR activators,17 but also sev-
degranulation, and epidermal hyperplasia.30,72 To the extent that eral bioflavonoid ingredients, such as hesperidin and apigenin,80,81
occlusive ingredients like petrolatum improve permeability barrier have been found to boost filaggrin production, and could, therefore,
function, they too can dampen cytokine production. However, the prove useful in those patients with AD who do not exhibit double-
anti-inflammatory activity of the triple physiological lipid-based for- allele mutations in filaggrin gene expression.
mulation can be attributed to several additional characteristics,
which include the following: (1) inactivation of KLKs that compro- Acknowledgment
mise SC structural integrity at a low pH; (2) inhibition of pathogen
colonization with reductions in attendant, superantigen-initiated The author thanks Joan S. Wakefield for her excellent editorial
inflammation; and (3) activation of 2 key lipid-processing enzymes, assistance.
b-glucocerebrosidase, and acidic sphingomyelinase, which generate
ceramides required to form the extracellular lamellar bilayers.73 References
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