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Ann Allergy Asthma Immunol 128 (2022) 505−511

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Review

Optimizing emollient therapy for skin barrier repair in atopic


dermatitis

Peter M. Elias, MD
Department of Dermatology, University of California (UC) San Francisco and Veteran Affairs (VA) Medical Center, San Francisco, California

Key Messages

 Optimal barrier function is required for mammalian life and survival in a desiccating terrestrial environment.
 Loss-of-function mutations in filaggrin and other genes provoke similar, atopic dermatitis (AD)−like phenotypes.
 Therapy with most over-the-counter moisturizers compromises barrier function further in AD mouse models.
 Triple lipid-based therapies, comprising an optimized ratio of ceramides (3), cholesterol (1), and free fatty acids (1), normalize barrier
function in AD.
 Topical applications of an optimized ratio formulation have proven as effective as a fluorinated midpotency steroid (fluticasone) in pediat-
ric AD.
 Studies are underway to determine whether this form of therapy will prevent the atopic march.

A R T I C L E I N F O A B S T R A C T

Article history: Objective: We compared the principal characteristics of over-the-counter moisturizers with physiological lipid-
Received for publication December 2, 2021. based barrier repair therapy (BRT).
Received in revised form January 13, 2022. Data Sources: An extended literature reported that moisturizers are considered standard ancillary therapy for
Accepted for publication January 14, 2022.
anti-inflammatory skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis (AD). Additional studies have found that physiological
lipid-based BRT can comprise effective, stand-alone therapy for pediatric AD.
Results: Not all moisturizers are beneficial—some negatively impact skin function, and in doing so, they risk inducing
or exacerbating inflammation in patients with AD. The frequent self-reported occurrences of sensitive skin in patients
with AD could reflect the potential toxicity of such formulations. A still unanswered question is whether improper for-
mulations could also prove to be counterproductive in other types of sensitive skin, such as rosacea. In contrast, we
found how physiological lipid-based BRT (when comprised of the 3 key stratum corneum lipids in sufficient quantities
and at an appropriate molar ratio) can correct the barrier abnormality, thereby reducing inflammation in AD and pos-
sibly in other inflammatory dermatoses, such as adult eczemas and possibly even psoriasis.
Conclusion: We provide guidelines for the appropriate dispensation of moisturizers and physiological lipid-
based, BRT for the treatment of AD. Both over-the-counter (Atopalm) and prescription (EpiCeram) products are
available in the United States with these characteristics.
© 2022 American College of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology. Published by Elsevier Inc. This is an open access arti-
cle under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/)

Reprints: Peter M. Elias, MD, Dermatology Service, San Francisco VA Medical Center, Funding: Research reported in this publication was supported by the National Institute
4150 Clement Street, MS 190, San Francisco, CA 94121. E-mail: peter.elias@ucsf.edu. of Arthritis, Musculoskeletal, and Skin Diseases of the National Institutes of Health
Disclosures: Dr Elias is a coinventor of EpiCeram, licensed from the University of Cali- under Award Number R01 AR061106, administered by the Northern California Insti-
fornia to Primus Pharmaceuticals, LLC, Scottsdale, Arizona. This content is solely the tute for Research and Education, with additional resources provided by the Veterans
responsibility of the author and does not necessarily represent the official views of Affairs Medical Center, San Francisco.
either the National Institutes of Health or the Department of Veterans Affairs.

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.anai.2022.01.012
1081-1206/© 2022 American College of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology. Published by Elsevier Inc. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/)
506 P.M. Elias / Ann Allergy Asthma Immunol 128 (2022) 505−511

Introduction antimicrobial defense that facilitate penetration of microbial patho-


gens and allergens into the skin.
Atopic dermatitis (AD) can be considered a wastebasket of inher-
Problems with the barrier are not confined to patients with AD.
ited inflammatory skin disorders characterized by localized to gener-
Human neonates fail to develop fully competent permeability bar-
alized cutaneous inflammation. With a prevalence of up to 20% in
riers until approximately 6 months of postnatal life, a problem that is
Western and Asian pediatric populations, it is considered the most
amplified in premature infants.24,25 Now, consider the other end of
common type of inflammatory skin disease.1,2 With disturbed sleep
the human timeline - aging skin, which emerges initially as a revers-
patterns because of chronic pruritus, it can severely impact the qual-
ible pH-induced barrier abnormality around the age of 50 years,26
ity of life3 and also imposes a considerable economic burden.4
which is further amplified by defects in lipid synthesis still later in
Because AD is often triggered and amplified by Staphylococcus aureus
life.27,28
colonization, secondary infections are common and impose an addi-
Then, there is another wastebasket of diagnoses, which include
tional therapeutic challenge. It is often the harbinger of the so-called
the aforementioned seasonally aggravated adult eczemas and sebor-
atopic march, in which the characteristic skin disease, appearing as
rheic and stasis dermatitis. The next category includes rosacea, often
early as 1 to 3 months of age, can progress to asthma and seasonal
mistermed acne rosacea, whereas the final category is more nebulous
rhinitis, a pathogenic sequence that has been questioned by some
—the multitudes who have “sensitive skin,” which, we suggest, is
authorities.5,6
often initiated or provoked by improperly formulated moisturizers.
Two opposing, though not necessarily mutually exclusive, views
From a purely commercial perspective, these products can promote a
of disease pathogenesis hold sway. According to the inside-to-outside
perverse vicious circle that demands ever more frequent product
perspective, it is the TH2-dominant immunophenotype of AD that
applications. We turn next to the stated goal of this narrative, which
provokes an overlying permeability barrier abnormality, allowing
is to provide updated guidelines for the appropriate deployment of
antigens to enter the skin and amplify disease expression.7-9 Yet, the
topical skincare.
discovery of underlying inherited mutations2,10 and TH2-driven
down-regulation in the expression of the structural protein, filag-
grin,11 illuminate an alternate outside-to-inside view of disease path-
ogenesis.12-14 Moisturizer Ingredients and Their Mechanisms of Action
To fully comprehend the latter paradigm, one must first embrace
Classic moisturizing products, like Aquaphor and Eucerin, are
the concept that the principal role of the epidermis is to construct a
water-in-oil formulations, enriched in occlusive ingredients, such as
permeability barrier that allows life in a desiccating, terrestrial
petrolatum or lanolin.29 Their hydrophobic nature allows them to
environment.15,16 Accordingly, the epidermis undertakes a strong
coat the surface of the skin with a water-repellent layer that impedes
commitment to maintaining barrier competence, involving the
the bidirectional movement of water across the skin. By blocking the
expenditure of substantial resources to compensate for any external
movement of water out of the skin, these agents effectively, though
stressors that threaten permeability barrier competence. Although
temporarily, trap water within the SC, ameliorating the xerosis that is
the regulatory mechanisms that sustain barrier function have not
characteristic of AD and other, age- and seasonally-associated eczem-
been fully characterized, they include transcriptional control of both
atous disorders. Moreover, by improving the hydration of the SC, they
epidermal structural protein and lipid production/secretion by means
can dampen inflammation.30 Yet, it is important to note that these
of peroxisomal proliferator activating receptors (PPARs),17 Nrf2 acti-
occlusive moisturizers are inert ingredients that do not address the
vators (resveratrol),18 and unstable soluble mediators such as nitric
underlying biochemical abnormalities in AD.
oxide.19
Many moisturizers also contain 1 or more humectants, such as
When the barrier is abrogated (eg, with solvents, mechanical
glycerin, which imbibe water from the surrounding atmosphere. Yet,
forces, or sequential tape stripping), multiple repair sequences
because AD typically flares during winter months, when indoor
respond with alacrity, including a cytokine cascade20 and pH-initi-
humidity typically declines drastically owing to forced air and radiant
ated serine protease (kallikrein [KLK]) activation,21 each regulating
heating, humectants are often paired with an occlusive agent, such as
different components of the repair response. In considering different
petrolatum, to protect against further drying of the skin, which could
strategies to restore and optimize barrier competence, a key goal of
otherwise exacerbate AD symptoms.
topical therapy should be to support such compensatory responses.
Many moisturizers also incorporate emollient vegetable oils, such
In subsequent paragraphs, we describe different categories of topical
as coconut, jojoba, or avocado oils. Although these agents can impart
therapy and compare their impact on AD skin.
an elegant texture to such formulations, they provide no scientifically
proven benefits, with 1 key exception—certain vegetable oils (such
as sunflower, safflower, borage or corn oil, sea buckthorn oil)—which
Structural Basis for the Permeability Barrier
are enriched in essential fatty acid, linoleic acid, or gamma-linolenic
Though much attention in recent years has focused on filaggrin, acid. Components of these oils can: (1) improve barrier function31,32;
an AD phenotype can occur in diverse inherited mutations in struc- (2) enhance barrier function and reduce inflammation by means of
tural and enzymatic proteins that interfere with either the loading, activation of PPARs33; and/or (3) even provide nutritional benefits in
delivery, or postsecretory processing of the lipid and enzymatic con- mice and human neonates.32,34 Yet, allergic sensitization can occur,
tents of lamellar bodies within the extracellular spaces of the stratum not only in patients treated with peanut oil but also with sunflower
corneum (SC).14 These secreted lipids form stacks of lamellar bilayers seed oil.35 Finally, botanical ingredients are increasingly being added
that fill the extracellular spaces, accounting for approximately 10% of to moisturizers, and some of these can be beneficial. For example,
the mass of the SC in normal skin. In AD, the failure to deliver a full chamomile contains anti-inflammatory substances, such as apigenin,
complement of lipids to the SC interstices results in reduced amounts which improve symptoms in AD animal models.36
of extracellular lipids, producing a leaky extracellular matrix that per- It should be noted that a few popular over-the-counter moistur-
mits excessive loss of body water, quantitated as rates of transepider- izers also include a skin-identical or synthetic ceramide, or a cer-
mal water loss.22 An immediate consequence of a flawed delivery amide mimetic (pseudoceramide).37 Although topical ceramides
mechanism is a decline in the total lipid content needed to generate a (when provided at sufficient concentrations) can improve both per-
fully competent permeability barrier. Yet, because the permeability meability barrier function and SC hydration,38 their concentration
and antimicrobial barriers are both closely linked and interdepen- levels in most formulations are usually too low to impart measurable
dent,23 the permeability barrier defect results in parallel flaws in benefits. It seems likely that the term ‘ceramide’ often appears to be
P.M. Elias / Ann Allergy Asthma Immunol 128 (2022) 505−511 507

included in such preparations for marketing purposes. Most impor- Pathogenic Role of an Elevated pH in Atopic Dermatitis
tantly, as described below, if the ceramide is provided without the
An inevitable consequence both of the flawed barrier and inflam-
addition of the other 2 key physiological lipids at an appropriate ratio
mation in AD is an elevation in the pH of the skin surface.44 The dele-
(ie, with cholesterol and 1 or more free fatty acids), barrier function
terious consequences of an elevated pH in AD include activation of
deteriorates rather than improves.39 Studies have found that all 3
yet another outside-to-inside cytokine cascade that begins with the
constituents must be provided together in an equimolar ratio to
activation of the serine protease (KLK), KLK5, followed by the genera-
restore barrier function after disruption of normal skin.39
tion of the pro-TH2 cytokine, thymic stromal lymphopoietin, which,
in turn, recruits the TH2 and TH17 cells that secrete the “bad” cyto-
kines (ie, IL-4, IL-5, IL-13, IL-17A, and IL-33)45 (Fig 1). TH2 cytokines
Improperly Formulated Moisturizers Can Harm Individuals With
further compromise the barrier by downregulating the synthesis of
Flawed Barriers
the following: (1) epidermal structural proteins46; (2) tight junction
In a sensitive-skin animal model, we recently identified a serious proteins47; (3) ceramides48; (4) fatty acid elongases49; and (5) a key
flaw with most moisturizers that are currently on the market.40 antimicrobial peptide, LL-37.50 Hence, the initial outside-to-inside
Although they may seem harmless when applied to normal skin that cytokine cascade in AD quickly morphs into an “outside-to-inside-
displays a robust barrier, many of these products could prove to be back-to-outside” vicious circle.51 Furthermore, KLKs exhibit a neutral
toxic when and if they are applied to the skin of individuals with self- to alkaline pH optimum, and their activation at the neutral pH of AD
reported “sensitive” skin, likely also including patients with a history further compromises a set of other critical functions (Fig 1). Finally,
of AD.40 Yet, these products are rarely tested in such at-risk individu- whereas the low pH of normal SC (ie, 4.5-5) inhibits the growth of S.
als; instead, such patients are typically specifically excluded from any aureus and Streptococcus pyogenes, the normal flora (eg, Staphylococ-
such investigations. The bottom line is that although short-term relief cus epidermidis and Corynebacterium) instead thrive at a lower
may be obtained with these agents, if they further disrupt the skin pH.44,52 In contrast, the elevated pH of inflamed skin in AD further
barrier, they can initiate a vicious cycle that requires repeated appli- favors pathogen colonization and growth.
cations of the same or alternate products.

Barrier Restorative Therapy in Atopic Dermatitis


The Link Between the Barrier Abnormality and Inflammatory
Substantial literature supports the deployment of moisturizers
Phenotype in Atopic Dermatitis
along with anti-inflammatory agents in AD.53 This approach seems
One inevitable consequence of the flawed barrier in AD links the prudent because co-applications of moisturizers under nursing
barrier defect to a proinflammatory cytokine cascade, which, in turn, supervision have been found to reduce reliance on topical steroids in
recruits the characteristic immunophenotype in AD, comprising the AD management.54,55 Yet, our recent studies have found that some
outside-to-inside concept of disease pathogenesis in AD.41 In typically used moisturizers can harm the skin, particularly when they
response to the sustained barrier defect in AD, a host of cytokines are deployed in settings in which the barrier already is compro-
and growth factors is generated in an inherently unsuccessful mised,55 as in the case in AD, and also in rosacea and individuals with
attempt to restore normal function in AD epidermis.42 Yet, owing to self-reporting sensitive skin. Here, we compare the key differences
the underlying biochemical abnormalities in AD, regardless of etiol- between ubiquitous, over-the-counter moisturizers and preparations
ogy, normal function cannot be restored (the author compares the formulated specifically to correct the inherited abnormalities in AD.
situation to being dealt a faulty set of cards). Hence, the epidermis Although these mutations typically delete or reduce the expression
continues to send out these signals, designed to promote barrier of structural proteins, most notably filaggrin, their net effect is to
repair, until a TH2-, TH17-, or interleukin (IL)-33−dominant inflam- compromise either the synthesis, loading, or secretion of lamellar
matory milieu develops.9 It is this outside-to-inside paradigm of AD body contents (Fig 2).14 The result of these aberrant mechanisms is
pathogenesis, because of an underlying inherited barrier abnormal- both a global reduction in all 3 key barrier lipids, along with a further
ity, that sustains this proinflammatory cytokine cascade43 (Fig 1). TH2-driven decline in ceramide content and fatty acid chain length.56

Figure 1. Barrier-initiated cytokine cascade leads to multiple downstream consequences in atopic dermatitis (modified from Elias et al. J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2014;134(4):781-791
e1).14 GM-CSF, granulocyte-macrophage colony-stimulating factor; IL-1, interleukin-1; KLK, kallikrein; NF-kB, nuclear factor kappa B; TNFa, tumor necrosis factor-alpha; TSLP, thy-
mic stromal lymphopoietin.
508 P.M. Elias / Ann Allergy Asthma Immunol 128 (2022) 505−511

Figure 2. Multiple downstream consequences of filaggrin deficiency in atopic dermatitis (modified from Elias et al. J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2014;134(4):781-791 e1).14

By hydrating the SC, moisturizers can alleviate the xerosis, which is a oil can cause allergic contact dermatitis. Residents of the cutaneous
prominent feature of AD, but they have not yet been found to provide microbiome generate metabolites, notably a commensal bacteria
stand-alone therapy even for mild cases of AD. Moreover, whether metabolite, N-palmitoyl serinol (Neuromide has been registered with
they truly prevent the initial development of AD, as suggested in sev- the US Food and Drug Administration as drug master file type IV), stim-
eral recent studies,57,58 is debatable, because another recent study ulate epidermal ceramide synthesis by activating endocannabinoid
failed to exhibit any preventive benefits of moisturizer therapy receptors.64 Activation of one such receptor, CB-1, results in benefits for
alone.59 the barrier.65,66 N-palmitoyl serinol (Neuromide) has exhibited remark-
able efficacy as a probarrier,66 anti-inflammatory,64,67 and anti-aging
ingredient68 in both in vitro and in vivo models.
Physiological Lipid-Based Therapy of Atopic Dermatitis
Topically applied physiological lipids, in contrast with moisturizers,
Efficacy of Triple Physiological Lipid-Based, Barrier Repair
do not form an occlusive layer on the SC surface. Instead, they are
Therapy in Atopic Dermatitis
quickly absorbed into the underlying nucleated cell layers, which they
incorporate into nascent lamellar bodies as they form in the trans- Unlike moisturizers, topical ceramide-dominant, triple lipid prod-
Golgi apparatus of stratum spinosum and granulosum cells.39 There, ucts amplify lipid production and delivery to the SC intercellular
the absorbed lipids join with denovo synthesized lipids immediately spaces, replenishing the lamellar bilayers that are critical for normal
before their secretion into the extracellular spaces. But as illustrated in barrier function and antimicrobial defense. Chamlin et al69 evaluated
Figure 1, not only the synthesis but also the secretion of lipids is 24 pediatric patients with recalcitrant AD. Whereas all of these
impaired in AD, resulting in a global reduction in the “big 3” physiolog- patients continued to use standard therapy (including potent topical
ical lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids). Therefore, steroids and/or tacrolimus), the sole intervention was the substitu-
when addressing first the reduced lipid content of the SC in AD (ie, tion of a ceramide-dominant, triple lipid product for each patient’s
from 10% to 5% of the weight of normal SC), these physiological lip- prior moisturizer. Follow-up SCORAD scores revealed a rapid
ids ideally should be provided at a high final concentration of at least improvement in clinical scores in 22/24 patients. Not only did clinical
5%. Then, because of the further TH2-cytokine−induced reduction in scores improve, but both epidermal barrier function and SC cohesion
ceramide content of the SC,48 the 3 lipids ideally should be provided as also improved. Ultrastructure of lipid-treated human epidermis
a ceramide-dominant mixture (ie, at approximately a 3:1:1 molar revealed enhanced lamellar membrane production, a change that
ratio),39 with a natural or synthetic ceramide as the dominant species. was absent from patients who had been previously treated with com-
In light of the deleterious pH abnormality in AD, this final formu- mon moisturizers.69 More recently, a ceramide-dominant, triple lipid
lation should ideally be adjusted to a pH of less than or equal to 5 to prescription formulation (EpiCeram emulsion) also improved skin
compensate for the elevated pH of inflamed skin in AD. As noted barrier function in comparison to conventional moisturizers in AD
above, lowering the pH of the SC alone provides numerous potential patients.70 This ceramide-dominant product was then assessed in a
benefits, including reductions in inflammation while also enhancing multicenter, investigator-blinded, comparative study of 121 pediatric
the permeability barrier, SC cohesion, and antimicrobial defense. The patients, 6 months to 12 years, with moderate-to-severe AD.71
free fatty acids in the formulation not only are critical for the barrier Patients were randomized to either EpiCeram alone or a midpotency,
and as acidifying agents, but some also activate PPARa and PPARb/d, fluorinated steroid, fluticasone (Cutivate) cream. By 28 days, patients
improving epidermal function and further reducing inflammation.33 treated with EpiCeram alone exhibited reductions in SCORAD scores
In addition, fatty acid activators of PPARs can: (1) prevent the emer- that were comparable to fluticasone. Moreover, EpiCeram treatment
gence of steroid adverse effects60; (2) override the negative effects of not only reduced disease severity but also pruritus AD, while improv-
calcineurin inhibitors on barrier function61; and (3) prevent rebound ing sleep quality with an efficacy comparable to fluticasone. Although
flares after the withdrawal of topical steroids.51 Finally, several topi- not yet formally evaluated, I recommend applications of EpiCeram
cal ingredients, including the triple lipids and even petrolatum, have before steroid delivery, thereby providing a more hydrophobic envi-
been reported to enhance epidermal production of the key antimicro- ronment for drug delivery. Together, this information provides guide-
bial peptide, LL-37.62 lines for the utilization of a physiological lipid-based, barrier repair
approach as therapy in the treatment of AD.

Alternative Approaches Can Boost Ceramide Production


How Barrier Repair Therapy Is Anti-Inflammatory in Atopic
Other approaches can also enhance ceramide synthesis by alternate
Dermatitis
mechanisms. For example, eucalyptus oil extracts, when added to cul-
tured keratinocytes, increase ceramide synthesis and have been for- Managing AD often requires the use of topical anti-inflammatory
warded as a potential cosmetic ingredient,63 though topical eucalyptus agents (topical corticosteroids, topical calcineurin inhibitors, or
P.M. Elias / Ann Allergy Asthma Immunol 128 (2022) 505−511 509

phosphodiesterase 4 inhibitors), and in adults with recalcitrant, mod- inhibitor. The KLKs not only are directly destructive, but they also
erate-to-severe AD, systemic biologics (eg, IL-4, IL13, IL17, or IL-33 bind to and activate plasminogen activator type 2 receptors, which,
inhibitors). But in clinical settings, management should not lose focus in turn, block lamellar body secretion77 and provoke pruritus.78 How-
on the skin barrier. Clinicians are presented with many choices for ever, small peptide inhibitors of plasminogen activator type 2 recep-
managing the compromised barrier that is a central participant in AD tors are yet to enter the therapeutic armamentarium for AD. Because
pathogenesis. Though parsing through these choices can be difficult, reduced exposure to the benefits of suberythemogenic ultraviolet B
many moisturizers seem to provide little or no benefit, and as noted has been proposed as a key factor in the recent, urban resurgence of
above, some could even be harmful.40 AD,79 it would seem prudent to recommend moderate amounts of
Animal studies suggest that moisturizers alone, by restoring SC exposure to ambient ultraviolet B as a part of the management plan
hydration, reduce cytokine production, mast cell hypertrophy and for patients with AD. Finally, not only PPAR activators,17 but also sev-
degranulation, and epidermal hyperplasia.30,72 To the extent that eral bioflavonoid ingredients, such as hesperidin and apigenin,80,81
occlusive ingredients like petrolatum improve permeability barrier have been found to boost filaggrin production, and could, therefore,
function, they too can dampen cytokine production. However, the prove useful in those patients with AD who do not exhibit double-
anti-inflammatory activity of the triple physiological lipid-based for- allele mutations in filaggrin gene expression.
mulation can be attributed to several additional characteristics,
which include the following: (1) inactivation of KLKs that compro- Acknowledgment
mise SC structural integrity at a low pH; (2) inhibition of pathogen
colonization with reductions in attendant, superantigen-initiated The author thanks Joan S. Wakefield for her excellent editorial
inflammation; and (3) activation of 2 key lipid-processing enzymes, assistance.
b-glucocerebrosidase, and acidic sphingomyelinase, which generate
ceramides required to form the extracellular lamellar bilayers.73 References
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