WRITTEN BY

BUCK
BALLAD
FREDO
AKA

SAVAGAE
‘BUCK420’

RIP FREDO SANTANA

TOPIC 1 – HOW TO CREATE PERSONAL BANK ACCOUNTS.
- How to create Bank Accounts, and receive Debit Cards to your drops.
You can use these accounts for merchants or applying for personal loans
and some whole other shit you can come up with.
TOPIC 2 – HOW TO CREATE BUSINESS BANK ACCOUNTS.
- This Topic mainly teaches how to create Business Bank Accounts and
maintain them, for huge pay-outs from Merchants, Business loans and
Wire Transfers.
TOPIC 3 – HOW TO GET PERSONAL LOANS.
- This gives and in-depth view how to apply and get approved for loans
mainly from payday loans, to even bank loans and other loan providers.
TOPIC 4 – HOW TO GET BUSINESS LOANS.
- Same applies, I’ll give insight on how to Apply and get approved for
Business Loans, from Banks to Loan Providers such as the SBA. Getting
Business loans require some skills in document forging, if you got
someone who does your docs hope he is really good.
TOPIC 5 – HOW TO GET BUSINESS CREDIT CARDS.
This topic mainly deals on how to apply for Business Credit Cards and how to
receive them in order to cashout. You also learn how to maintain and increase
your levels for bigger paydays.
TOPIC 6 – THE TYPES OF BUSINESS LOANS REQUIREMENTS.
This mainly shows what you will most likely get asked for when applying for
Business loans and Credit Cards from providers. I give an in-depth view on
each item needed and chances of you getting asked for it during your operation.
TOPIC 7 – STRIPE.
Stripe is a merchant provider, this topic mainly teaches how to defraud them
and receive 2 day pay-outs for at least a month on normal personal drops and
business drops.
SECTION 1 – RADAR.
- About Radar.
SECTION 2 – RADAR FRAUD DETECTION FEATURES.
- Radar features, what it mainly does’’ Evaluation’’.
SECTION 3 – STRIPES RADAR RULES.
- What they are and how they affect a carder trying to defraud stripe.
- Types of Rules.
- Benefits and how to use the review rule in order to maintain minimum
decline.
- A dive into each rule.
SECTION 4 – RADAR BUILT IN RULES.
- Types of built in rules and what are they.
- How they work with radar to detect you.
SECTION 5 – RISK EVALUATION.
- What is Radars risk evaluation?
- How it affects your payment.
SECTION 6 – HOW RADAR EVALUATES.
- How radar evaluates a payment.
SECTION 7 – RISK OUTCOME.
- What is radars risk outcome?
- The Five Values used to Judge your payment.
SECTION 8 – RISK SCORE (STRIPE RADAR FOR FRAUD TEAMS).
- What is Stripe Radar for Fraud Teams?
- What is Stripe Radar for Fraud Teams risk score?
SECTION 9 – TYPES OF RISKS.
- A dive into the five types of Values or Risks that Judge Payments.
SECTION 10 – REVIEWING PAYMENTS.
- Best thing if you carding your own setup.
- How they affect a carding session if you trying defraud a merchant.
SECTION 11 – POSSIBLE ACTIONS AFTER BEING PLACED ON
REVIEW.
- Possible scenarios if your payment is placed in review.
- Why it’s a pretty good to check if carding own setup.
SECTION 12 – WHY YOU SHOULD NEVER USE 3D SECURE CARDS ON
STRIPE OR ANY PPC.
3D Secure 2 they said karma a bitch.
- What is 3D Secure 2?

SECTION 13 – HOW TO MAINTAIN THE LOWEST RISK LEVEL PER

TRANSACTION.
- How to maintain the lowest risk while carding own setup or stripes
merchant shop.
- Why maintaining this level matters.
SECTION 14 – STEPS INORDER TO AGE SETUP.
- Follow this steps if you want to age your setup
Follow if you want setups that last for almost 2 Months.

TOPIC 8 – SQUARE
Square is another merchant, I like them mostly for their 2day pay-outs on the
first charge and instant pay-outs on a daily basis. Best Merchant to defraud if
you want to cashout fast.
Just like Stripe you will learn how to defraud them and setup instant transfers
and how to make your setups last at least 4 weeks.

SECTION 1 – SQUARE RISK MANAGER.

- What is Risk Manager, and how does it work?
SECTION 2 – HOW TO SIGN UP FOR RISK MANAGER.
- Since it doesn’t come AUTO, how to sign up for it.
SECTION 3 – RISK MANAGER RULES.
- What are risk manager rules?
SECTION 4 – RISK MANAGER BUILT IN RULES.
- Built in Rules that work automatically, with each stripe setup.
SECTION 5 – RULES TO ENABLE ON OUR SETUP.
- Which Rules to enable and disable on our Square Setups.
SECTION 6 – RULES SUMMARY.
- A summary of what we have learnt about Risk Manager.
SECTION 7 – RISK ALERT.
- What is Risk Alert and how we can use it to our advantage.

SECTION 8 – HOW TO LINK BANK ACCOUNT.

- After signing up for square, how to link business bank accounts.
SECTION 9 – HOW TO MANAGE INSTANT TRANSFERS.
- Getting paid same day, how to go about it in-depth look about Squares
Instant Transfers.
TOPIC 9 – BANK LOGS CASHOUT THROUGH SIM SWAP.
- I’ve been fucking with Logs since my first days in Fraud, you will learn
from this topic small insight on how to login to bank accounts from
Chase, Wells Fargo and some other notable banks in USA.
This method works, all the way to Canada Logs, I’ve used it to login to
BMO, CIBC, TD and RBC. You can try it with other countries also.

So to login is one thing but cashing out is another, mainly with Logs
whose holders have put in security measures to prevent actors like us a
payday. Such measures like OTP for USA, Canada mostly TD Bank and
Questions with Answers for Canada Logs Primarily.

Are hard to beat, this method mainly relies on Swapping Sim Cards of the
log holders and Intercepting OTP’s. Swapping a Sim aint that easy if you
don’t have the Account Number and Pin. If you have those then this topic
is for you.
This Guide, is meant to teach you the basics of how to login to a bank account.
I’ve used it to log into Chase, Wells Fargo and some other Banks in the States
and some from Canada such as RBC, TD, CIBC and some other banks.
The Concept is one and if followed well you will gain access to a bank account
without triggering any fraud alerts. What this Guide won’t help you with is how
to avoid 2FA or OTP used by some banks and Log Holders to keep their funds
safe.
That Guide is for my Recruits.
If you want to bypass 2FA on banks you will either have to swap the Sim card
to one in your possession or listen in on the bank holder’s voice mails in order
to sniff the Codes.
With Sim Swapping the bank holder’s line, you will need for USA the Account
number and Pin of their Carrier such as Verizon, ATT or Sprint. There are some
other info you still need for a successful swap.
But that’s for another guide, and for fraudsters who want to clear out logs
without issues. Hit me up if you need info on this
Back to the Basics, I guess you read my previous guide about Card Not Present
Fraud, (CNP).
You have to get a Valid and Clean IP address for your operation to succeed.
IP, Basic logic here.
What Makes a High Quality IP?
 The Proxy Score should be 0.
 The Risk Score should be less than 5.
 The ISP (Internet Service Provider) should be residential.
The IP’s location must be as close as possible to the home of the actual Bank
account holder
Distance of the IP selected can be checked by distancebetweencities.com.
This is what primarily matters with logs, so try get this part right.
I’m not that a huge fan of using Software’s to log in to bank accounts such as
Antidetect or Genesis etc.
Even though they work, ill focus primarily on using RDPS or your Carding
Station to login to accounts.
Most logs I’ve purchased come with Email Access and other information which
helps my login easier.
So if you follow on my path and use RDP or your Normal PC or Laptop
(Carding Station).
First Thing you have to do is clean your system of past operations using
CCleaner and Bleach bit they usually help get rid of items which would link you
to the past operation.
Run your VPN if you aint already. I suggest Mullvad VPN.
Since we aint using Software’s, install a fresh set of Mozilla Firefox browser.
We will have to install some add-ons to help us out on the job, if you using 911
or some other sockkv55 provider with their own tools to connect to sockv5 skip
this step.
Install foxy proxy add-on or any other add-on which will help you use sockv5
on the browser or you can still enter it manually if you want.
Next Step is to install a canvas randomizer extension on the browser, that’s why
software’s like Antidetect fraud fox or linken have an advantage over using this
method. It’s all automated
Last two extension you might want to install are webrtc spoofer or changer and
an extension capable of hiding your plugins even though not necessary. Plugin
Detector
I mostly install these as an OPSEC for my part but from past experiences with
the logs I haven’t been able to run into issues because of using them or not
using them.
So it’s up to you install them or leave em.

Next part is easy just insert the sockv5 after running CCleaner again then
choose your user agent windows 7 is my preference.
Go to whoer and confirm if your details much the log holders location. Items
like time zone and keyboard language also do matter. Confirm your details and
head over to the email you want to login or if you didn’t receive email access
just jump onto the bank account website and try login.
If things go well you should be on the dashboard, if you fucked up then they
probably asking for 2FA or OTP.
With Canada logs even after following this method some banks usually hit me
with Verification questions which aint hard if you got them in the first place.
But usually its always smooth sailing, if you got all necessary information from
your log provider.
CASHING OUT
This is usually another issue people face, most banks either send OTP some
even call or ask you to call them to approve the charge. It all depends with the
log and verification measures put by the holder to secure their funds.
With Sim Swapping their Line, you have a huge advantage and won’t be going
in blind, but guns blazing. You can call the bank transfer funds from saving to
checking approve declined wire transfers.
Receive 2FA Codes if there is no need to call the bank, so as I said huge
advantage.
It’s all about social engineering, the skills and effort you put in to cashout. I
never send funds to the same bank when cashing out just makes it easier for
them to reverse the transfer.
It’s all about your log provider and the details you have about the Bank
Account.
If you interested in Sim Swapping hit my line up you have to be in the USA
though, I can still hook you up with logs with Verification Questions and
answers if you from Canada though. That EMT Sauce hitting
There are other methods of how to gain access to a log, don’t forget about
mobile banking linken sphere, Antidetect and some other software’s.
Even using basic rdp and laptop guarantees some to gain access to bank
accounts.

TOPIC 10 – HOW TO CARD (CARD NOT PRESENT FRAUD).

- Self-explanatory shit here you will learn how to card and I also give small
insight how it works and Anti-Fraud systems meant to verify your
identity.
I will start from the basic level and take you to the next level. Which will give
you a basic understanding how this type of fraud works.
This Guide isn’t meant to spoon feed you, think and act from your own
understanding how to apply this on your day to day carding adventures.
If you got any questions feel free to drop a comment.

There are several types of cards:

But this what you will mainly focus on (CNP) – Card Not Present Fraud.
Debit card: A debit card (also known as a bank card or check card) it’s a plastic
payment card that can be used instead of cash when making purchases. It is
similar to a credit card, but unlike a credit card, the money comes directly from
the user’s bank account when using a debit card.
Advantages of using a debit card is that you won’t receive a chargeback. In the
time span Credit Cards hit you with CB if you already fucking with Merchants.
You know chargebacks a bitch, especially ones that come within the first of
second week kill your setups.
Credit card: A Credit Card is a payment card issued to users (Cardholders) as a
method of payment. It allows the cardholder to pay for goods and services based
on the holder’s promise to pay for them. The issuer of the card generally a bank
creates a revolving account and grants a line of credit to the cardholder, from
which the cardholder can borrow money for payment to a merchant or as a cash
advance.
This is the type of card, you will mostly focus on during your CNP Career.
So you know something small on what you will deal with cards wise.
To the next subtopic.
BINS
Stand for “Bank Identification Number”, generally the first 6 digits of the card
number, it helps to identify a specific card, what bank it belongs, the type of
card etc.
Take notice that some BINs will work better with your chosen system.
When you will need a specific card type that can go for a very high amount!
The card type will give us an idea of how much the card will handle per every
swipe.
Also you will use BINS as a method to check the issuing bank, so as to check cc
balance and available credit.
ANTI FRAUD MEASURES
3D SECURE
Moving to 3D Secure.
Specifically, VBV and MCSC.
VBV stand for: “Verified by Visa” and its and additional password that prevents
unauthorized purchases. Generally, after checkout, before the charge, you will
see a pop up window asking for that password.
MCSC stands for “Master Card Secure Code”, basically, same thing of VBV.
There are several methods to bypass this
- BIN: you can get a non-vbv BIN and simply skip it all the way, you will
find several sellers that sell non VBV BINS.
- Getting a fullz cvv with known SSN DOB: self-explanatory, some sellers
sell Credit Card data with known details so that you can fuck up 3D
Secure by resetting the password.
- Pre- enrolling: plenty of times, you can pre-configure the password. On
same banks, you can do it straight from the member’s area of their
websites, assuming the customer hasn’t enrolled yet.
There are other Anti-Fraud Measures placed by banks and Merchants to fight
your first pay check from fraud.
AVS
AVS stand for “Address Verification System”.
The Address Verification System (AVS) is a system used to verify the address
of a person claiming to own a credit card. The system will check the billing
address of the credit card provided by the user with the address on file at the
credit card company.
If they aren’t in the same range you will automatically get declined by the bank,
not the merchant.
CVV
This is a Three to 4 Digit code which usually comes with credit cards, a wrong
code typed during checkout will automatically lead to a decline by the bank.
NAME OF CC Holder.
Most people always ignore this, and take it lightly you should always type every
detail you get from the Credit Card correctly.
Small spelling Errors such as Back Savage instead of Buck Savage will lead to a
decline.
Speaking from experience here, this is what I learnt carding my own setups.
The Bank is the one who declines the charge on this one.
EXP DATE
Small errors usually lead to a decline, type each information you receive
correctly or you will start saying carding is dead.
Bank usually gives a decline on this.
CARDING AINT DEAD ITS MISLEAD.
ZIP
Each set of information you receive from your credit card provider is important,
that’s if your supplier aint a deadbeat.
Wrong ZIP entered usually leads to a decline from the bank also.
PHONE NUMBER
This matters also you shouldn’t just type some half as info you receive, having
the right information leads to a successful charge and this matters.
Especially if you trying to card your own setups.
CONCLUSION TO ANTI FRAUD MEASURES.
So as you have read so far, each detail you receive is important for your small
heist to succeed.
From what I’ve learnt banks need only three types of information in order for
the charge to pass.
The rest mostly is the Merchant working with the bank to validate the charge.
The Three Most Important information needed by a Bank are
 1. CREDIT CARD NUMBER – LMAO if you trying put some half as info
from a $10 card you bought just quit.
2. CVV
3. EXP DATE
The rest depends either on the bank or merchant.
Why I mentioned the Merchant is because, they have the ability to place rules
such as AVS, CVV, SHIPPING, and ADDRESS.
There is a whole lot of info a merchant verifies with the Card Issuer in order for
them to approve a charge.
This three are just a few of them, merchants also have the ability to approve or
decline charges due to IP being blacklisted, Email being associated with fraud,
If they Notice you Copy Pasting Credit Card details on the checkout page, how
you browse their website before placing something in the cart and heading to
the checkout page, Your OPSEC what system you using to charge especially the
user agent.
Whole Lot of other shit.
So even if the bank approves the charge you still will get declined by the
merchant.
I hope this gives you a slight idea that carding aint just getting to a site and
placing some order then getting approved.
With carding your own setups, it’s a whole different story but carding fuckers
like Amazon, Apple, you better get your shit together.

GETTING YOUR SHIT TOGETHER.

Pile that half ass Intel you got Bitch.
So where to get cards, if you a noob and don’t want to get scammed of your
BTC. Fuck with Jstash. Go to verified advertisements in crdclub.su and get their
link from there load some btc and browse their site and purchase some cc you
feel comfortable with.
When you gain experience with time you will find a suitable place where you
will purchase your credit cards from. I don’t usually purchase from Jstash
because I have my own sources where I get my cards from, but they have some
valid bins and do update regularly.
After you purchase your first Card, first of all check the BIN.
That 6 digit number I told you about from the start, that’s where you will find
details about the card such as Card Issuer, the Type of Card you got etc.
As I said before Jstash has some valid bins, after you bought your card and
checked the BIN.
You will have basic knowledge on the type of card you have such as the Bank
issuer etc.
HOW TO CHECK CREDIT CARD BALANCE OR IF CARD IS LIVE
Call the bank noob, what does the normal holder do to check their card its basic
logic here.
By calling the bank, you can ask check if the card is live or not, even the
available balance and the daily spending’s, because of course even if you have a
20k balance, that doesn’t mean you can spend 20k in a day. That’s a security
measure.
You can even ask to increase the daily spending limit.
I use spooftel and spoof cardholder number and I’m automatically recognized.
You can check through the automatic or robot or even better through a
representative.
When using spooftel or any other service make sure you have vpn enabled on
your phone and using a burner.
If the call doesn’t pass through at the bank, it means the card is dead move on.
If it passes through and you get to check your balance by speaking to the bank
rep or robot. You good to go with charging the card.
BASIC KNOWLEDGE FOR YOUR CARDING SYTEM
So you bought a card checked if it’s live and know the balance and available
credit.
It depends on what site you will be hitting for your small heist. All sites have
different levels of security so you will have to test and evaluate your errors
before you actually succeed on other sites.
With other websites you might succeed on the first try, bins do matter in
specific websites. So one BIN might actually work on one website but fail on
the other.
Carding your own setups, for those who already are doing it know that any bin
works but non vbv bins work best if you don’t want that 3d secure popping up.
You also don’t have to put a valid email I usually just change a single name on
the email like buck420@protonmail.com to buck402@protonmail.com using
the actual email holders email will lead them to getting an email stating their
order has been approved which will increase your chances of chargeback hitting
the first week or second week much higher.
Back to the noobs, if you want to card a website like amazon, apple, porn sites
for the wankers.
Create an email I’d suggest creating one from yandex they usually don’t need
phone numbers so they pretty much easy to create.
You should actually have some part of the credit card holders name in order not
to raise any suspicions but any will do as long as it’s clean.
Merchants usually place items like email used to defraud them in a list so
reusing them is pretty much shit. I have owned and managed a few setups so I
know what I’m talking about.
IP, Basic logic here.
What Makes a High Quality IP?
 The Proxy Score should be 0.
 The Risk Score should be less than 5.
 The ISP (Internet Service Provider) should be residential.
Some service providers like Comcast, Verizon, Fios, Time Warner, etc. offer
very good IP whether it is an RDP, SOCKS5 or SSH.
The IP’s location must be as close as possible to the home of the actual credit
card holder. For instance, if the CC Holder is from Chiraq and I choose an IP
address from California, chances are the bank and merchant will decline the
charge pronto.
Use an IP from Chiraq or from anywhere within 50 miles from the Credit Card
Holders locality. Distance of the IP selected can be checked by
distancebetweencities.com.
Also check if the IP is blacklisted, even though some sockv5 providers state
that’s its clean sometimes after passing a charge on my setups and charge being
approved after checking my dashboard and past transactions I usually find a
note that the IP was used for fraud in the past.
So try always check those few stuff I mentioned before purchasing an IP.
Also always in the future try have many sockv5 providers’ accounts so if one
has fucked up ips you can move on to the next.

These two are most important the other steps depends on your OPSEC and what
you’re using to card.
Either Antidetect, Genesis, RDP or even your basic PC or Laptop.
With all these you will have to enter the Socksv5 details on your Machine
everybody knows the drill with the system you are using.
User agent I usually use Windows 7 for my setups and carding websites since
it’s the most widespread, I wouldn’t suggest iPhone user agents they’ve led to
most declines on my setups.
But you can fuck around with other agents such as windows 10 android user
agents such as Google pixel etc.
Also depends on the system you using so you know the drill either if you using
Genesis, Antidetect or RDP.

As I said any system works, I’ve used software’s such as Antidetect, genesis or
RDP even my own laptop and charges have been successfully passed either on
my setups and websites such as amazon apple and any other website out there.

Run your evaluation on a website and see how they work, especially read their
fraud rules etc. It will give you small insight on how sites work.
If you trying to card gift cards in this age, some website have limits on how
many you can buy and verification systems such as providing a valid phone
number so they can call you, provide documents such as cc scan, some even ask
for photos with you holding a specific note.
So do your evaluation on a site before hitting it.
TO ACTUALLY CARD.
Run your system either Antidetect, Genesis RDP or laptop.
Insert the Socks you bought
Change the user agent,
With software’s such as Antidetect you can change most of the items websites
see on you such as time zone, language used on keyboard, and some whole lot
of other shit.
Make sure you actually do match the credit card holder’s details, such as time
zone, language etc.
It all matters so as to make you look legit in the eyes of the merchant’s antifraud
software.
You can use whoer or any other site to confirm the details you have actually
match the credit card holder.
After that, if you did your evaluation on the site and everything matches out
perfect to the credit card holder.
Go to the website you are going to card.
Navigate like a normal person, sites have scripts to measure how long and how
you browse their website.
Read and compare items you want to purchase, like you would something you
do when it’s your actual money on the line.
Add some items to the cart and remove some till you reach your specified target
range on how much you willing to actually card.
Go through the site once again and finally checkout.
You will be brought to the checkout page, take your time but don’t take too
long.
Type each detail of the credit card holder’s information, from name, credit card
number to all the details you got.
Don’t Copy and paste just lead to an automatic decline, read and confirm every
detail you typed then hit that confirm button.
If you purchased a non vbv bin, no pop ups expected so no more work.
If everything goes as planned the order should go through.
CONCLUSION
This is what I use when purchasing stuff on my setups, if the card is dead and
you followed the instructions well, no blacklisted ips, good user agent, details
on credit card match.
The Charge goes through no problem, this is how I keep my rate of declines low
and my setups ranging to the 4th 5th week. Chargebacks always kill my setups.
This also applies to the websites you hit, I’ve done bigger jobs with some
serious merchants with this method.
If the Card is live why should it fail?
If you get hit with a decline, most probably you didn’t follow the instructions
well or you might have problems with bins with the specific site you using, but
as I said if it’s a non vbv card and its live charge will pass through.
Bins don’t matter I’ve learnt that from carding multiple merchants and websites.
If the actual card holder went to the site you trying to hit and places some order,
chances are it won’t get declined because of the bin they using.

RIP

FREDO SANTANA ‘BIG BOSS FREDO’

SAVAGE SQUARE RECORDS

This Guide isn’t primarily for sale, to me it’s a means of recruiting new
people and teaching them in order for them to help me out in my future
projects and ventures in the world of Fraud.

This Guide is a Gold Mine for those who know how to use it, hence my
recruits having this knowledge at their first stage will help them catch up.

I’m looking towards building a team, mostly people based in USA,

CANADA, UK or AUSTRALIA. There is lots of cash to be made in
fraud having a decent number of people working for you in projects and
based in these 4 countries is great, especially setting up drops etc.

Fraud is wide, for those who have been in the game for a while, and there
are still lots of financial organisations to defraud. This is Just the tip of
the Joint, I still got some other Intel on other projects other from the ones
mentioned with bigger pay-outs.

If you trying to join, don’t be a complete noob have some knowledge on

how shit works I don’t want to keep on explaining for every single job I
give out.

If you aren’t from the 4 Countries Mentioned we can still work something
out, cause you can still work and cash out if you anywhere in the world.

I’m looking to add about 20 more people to my team, if you interested in

joining hit my line up and we can work something out. I will vet your ass
in the first weeks so even though you join initially I might kick your ass
out.

There will be a $100 price, before you receive the Guide to keep Noobs
and lechers away.

My Contacts

Fredosavage – wickr
@buckballad – Telegram
Buck420@protonmail.com