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Workshop guide for turbo kits.

Warning :
This tuning guide does not pretend to be an engine tuning bible.
This content does not engage SARL Laurent-Motors in anyway. It is
given for information to help his customers to see clear in their engine
boosting. It could avoid any incident and moreover help you succeed
in your new engine setup.
Other people could see mechanic differently, have a different opinion
on the subjects treated on this manual. To take many advices is always
the best thing to do.
If your are an « amateur handyman » and you’d like to turbo’d your
engine, this guide is made for you.
If you are a confirmed mechanic, this guide will allow you not to
forget any important detail of your engine setup.

Summary:

I. Reminders of the principles of supercharging tuning

II. Parts and assembly
III. Engine settings after installation
 I. Reminders of the principles of supercharging tuning

Each gasoline or diesel engine could be turbo’d. An engine already equipped of a

supercharger could also be equipped with an added turbo.
A turbo setup properly done and tuned is always reliable.

Principle :
Supercharge an engine is to fill in his cylinders with compressed air.
This could be done with a supercharger who wil use mechanical forces of the engine. It will
use accessory pulley do achieve that.
This could also be done with a turbocharger that uses lost energy of the exhaust gases to
compress fresh air coming into the engine.
The supercharger will create boost from the lowest rpm’s but could be less powerfull on
high revings. (of course it depends on the engine and supercharger models)
The supercharger will also generarly be less evolutive in terms of power compared to a
turbocharger. The supercharging kit will also be lot more expensive than our turbo kit.
The turbocharger permet allows to easily contrôle the pressure it’ll generate. The maximum
boost limit will nearly always be the engine solidity. The turbocharger will also give a more
furious character to the engine.
Pressure versus Flow :
A turbocharger, dependig on his size will deliver a certain quantity of air. The bigger the turbo
is, the more flow it will deliver to fill in the cylinders. It will rise the power. The bigger the
turbo is, the later (in the rpm’s) it will start to boost the engine.
Conversely, the more little it will be, the sooner (in the rpm’s) it will create boost but it will
stop making high power in the high rpm’s. We will notice a power curve that will collapse at
high rev’s.
Whatever the turbo size, it is possible to set the pressure i twill deliver to the engine with the
wastegate. Usually, standard gasoline turbo engines are tuned around 0.7bar. It is possible to
rise or lower this pressure using the wastegate preload.
The pressure delivered to the engine will determine the torque. The power wil be determinesd
by the size of the turbo, the pressure and of course the rpm’s.
A little turbo (that will fastly create boost) coupled with a big wastegate is often a good
compromise. A too tiny wastegate could cause an “overboost” or “boost creep” in the high
rev’s (When the turbo pressure becomes higher than the original setting).

Boosting a Normally aspirated engine :

A normally aspirated engine has usually a high compression ratio. The compression ration is
the ability to the piston to compress air.
The formula to calculate the compression ratio is the following :
Cr = (V+v) / v
With
Cr the compression ratio
V Cylinder Volume, piston at bottom dead center
v Cylinder Volume, piston at Top Dead Center

If we boost a standard normally aspirated engine (CR between 9 and 11), until 0.5 bar (with a
reasonably sized turbo), it won’t cause any combustion problem. A rich mixture (more fuel
than combustion needs) will allow to have a good combustion with reasonnable Exhaaust Gas
Temperature and more over lower the risk of detonation (knock).
More than 0.5 or 0.6 bar, the combustion pressure risk to be to high and erratic causing stuff
like blown head gaskets (high temperature and pressure) or worse, a hole in the
piston(detonation ; pre-ingnition) and lots of other great surprises !
If you want more than 0.6 bar for great power outputs, you’ll have to install a decompression
plate to lower the Compression Ratio. The engine will then be able to handle the boost.
Generally for 1 to 1.2 bar. Even more with 1.5 bar sometimes. Again, it depends on the size of
the turbo and the decompression.
A sporty engine will often be able to support twice it’s original power just by decompressing
it. (Of course with a precise engine management tuning (injection time and timing))

Reinforce piston and roda t the stage is not necessary at most of the time useless.
Passing twice the standard power so with a big turbo and big pressures(usually superior to 1.4
bar), you nearly systematically need to change pistons and rods with forged items. And using
a MLS head gasket (Multi Layer Steel)
Mostly on alloy blocks, using reinforced bolts is recommended. Its also preferable on cast
iron blocks. It could even go until using a special steel cranckshaft. Special sleeves are also
available for some originally week engines (R21 2.0L turbo for example) or for some crazy
power outputs.
It is important to consider that when we arrive a reinforcement stage of the internals of the
engine, It will impact the entire transmission chain (Gearbox, shafts, differential case,
bearings, tyres and so on… The tuning budget will then become very important.
The stage 2 Laurent-motors is the best compromise regarding work time/power output/price.
Le stage 3 Laurent-motors will be the best compromise regarding the power out and the price.
Indeed, removing the head is sometimes tedious but it could be a great occasion to change
other parts like gaskets, piston rings, !engine bearings! .
Risk control:
Rising the performances of your engine implies braking risks due to a bad combustion.
Considering that a 100% standard engine is not unbreakable ; a highly tuned engine could also
break without obvious reasons.
However, a good combustion control ensures the best possible reliability.
Here’s the problems that can occur while tuning your engine :
-pre-ingnition :
The combustion will be started before the spark. It will generate high cylinder pressures to
which the engine could not always resist. (detonation is associated to this) This pre-ignition
will be generated by a hot spot in the chamber.
A dirty combustion chamber could sometimes cause this problem. Also low graded
temperature sparks can be the cause of it. While boosting an engine, it is needed to fit colder
sparks. (2 grades colder than the standard ones are generarly adapted to 50 to 100% more
power from the engine)
- knock (or pinging or detonation):
Knock is a parasite wave in the combustion chamber. It generates very located high pressures.
It occurs when a second flame front is created in the corners of the chamber. This second one
is created by the pressure rising in the cylinder because the first flame front from the spark is
burning and expensing.
Rising the timing advance will make more power. But at a certain level of power, you'll
experience the knocking sound from detonation.
Moreover, a Normally Aspirated engine has generally more timing advance than a turbo
engine. In consequence, when we boost a NA engine, combustion will be violent and make a
lot of power. Retire some timing will be safer. And if keeping the same Compression ratio,
you'll be limited to 0.5 or 0.6 bar to be sure not to experience detonation.

Here are the cause of detonation : (modify at least one of these parameters will help not to
knock) :

-Too high compression ratio

-Too low octane rating
-lean air fuel mixture
-High timing advance
-too much turbo boost.

The knock is a sound that is audible with electronic tools. It is rarely directly audible with ears
while driving. You'll find some good videos on youtube typing :
« knock detonation » ; « pinging »
Here is what you can here in an electronic headset tool :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGJZ6kKzLus&feature=related
or in car :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JA0cH_vRABg

-High Exhaust Gaz temperature (high EGT):

They appear when the air fuel mixture is too lean (not enough fuel).It also appears when the
timing advance is too low. You can add some fuel or some timing to lower those temps. The
simpliest thing is too higher the fuel pressure with our fuel pressure regulator. But you shall
not pass over 5 to 6 bar of fuel pressure. The setting of the pressure will consider the pressure
increase in the ramp when boosting. (or decrease when idling). All that because of the
pressure un the intake manifold which is linked to the fuel pressure regulator so that the
difference of pressur between the top of the injectors (fuel) and the bottom of the injector
intake manifold remains always the same.
A bigger intercooler well exposed to fresh air will also lower those temps. A water injection
on the intercooler (like on certain subaru's) will also lower the EGT's.
You now got his, a tuned engine will consumpt a lot and make a lot of heat.

Arbres à cames (AAC):

NA Camshafts are usually designed to be the most efficient at mid to high rev to ensure a
satisfying power level.

Turbo camshafts are usually « softer » to help low and mid rev's torque. The turbo will do his
job from mid to high rev's.

Boosting a NA engine will then give an aggressive behaviour of the engine and very
powerfull even with low turbo boost (Compression ratio and timing advance also induces
that).

Some racing NA camshafts will have a big overlap (intake and exhaust valve are open at the
same time) and won't be profitable for the boosted engine. Because passing a certain pressure
(above approx 0.7bar) the pressure will be enough to make the gas enter the combustion
chamber and directly go to the exhaust manifold without burning. Over fuel consumption and
flames from the exhaust tip will occur.
The only possible benefit of that is to adapt adjustable cam pulleys to suppress this overlap.
You'll take the most of these aggressive camshafts ! (only possible on DOHC's)

To recap :

NA engine, prefer standard camshafts. Don't buy high grade agressive NA camshafts. Only
aggressive camshafts for this engine if boosted.

Added info :

The theorical compression ratio formula was given previously.

The real compression ratio depends on the intake valve closing retard. With adjustable cam
pulleys and when rising this retard, you lower the compression ration (the real one).
II. Parts and assembly
I. 255LPH high flow fuel pumps.

Start your work by installing the high flow fuel

pump. It's a replacing pump that replace the standard
one. It's universal, you just have to link it to the
support of the original pump. Two metal clamps
would be a good idea. Then connect the two electrical
wires and the short fuel hose. Isolate the wires is not
necessary even if in-tank. But of course they must
never touch each other ! Doing so, would'nt let you
enjoy life for long...
You'll also have to check that the pump filter is nearly
touching the bottom of the tank.
For external fuel pump, the install is quite the same
and even simplier.

II. Engine decompression plate (only on pro kits or stage 3)

To install the plate, the car manufacturer

workshop manual will help you. The only
difference is that you'll mount parts like this :
For a steel decompression plate, follow this
assembly order :
Engine bloc=>head gasket=>decompression
plate=>another head gasket=>head.
For an alloy plate, follow this assembly order :
Engine bloc=>head gasket=>decompression
plate=>special sealant supplied=>head.
The sealant must be spread in a thin layer around each hole
on the plate.

Be carefull, the timing belt tension will be modified, it's

sometimes needed to adapt the tensionner stop. Or reven to
replace an idler by a tensionner if required.
Then verify as usual if the valves don't touch the pistons by
making two engine rounds manually.

Alloy will be in alluminium if aluminium head.

It will be in copper if cast iron head.
III. Turbo oil feed and return :
NB : All the screwings in this section will be done with
loctite to guarantee the proper fixing without leaks.
Oil feeding is done with the fittings supplied.
You can use the T's supplied to connect oil temperature
gauge sensor and oil pressure gauge sensor.
Most of the time, the simpliest way to achieve that is to
buy a specific adapter to suit your bloc thread instead of
having the standard oil pressure alarm.
Sometimes, it is easier to fix it elsewhere on the oil
pressure circuit. You can drill and tap (1/8NPT) and
then fix all our fittings.
The picture shows how it can be done on BMW E30
M20 bloc with the factory oil radiator flange. The
thermostat has been removed to do that.
The alluminium flange has been drill and tap for
1/8NPT.

Oil feed on the turbo must always be done on the top

and the return on the bottom. You can rotate each part
of the turbo to achieve that.
Once the turbo kit fitted, you'll have a first test to be sure that the oil pressure is not too low
(hot oil, low revings)
1. If pressure is too low (between 0 to 1 bar above 2000rpm), it could be some leaks
to check. Also you have to check your engine bearing and your oil pump.
Using some more viscuous oil could rise up the oil pressure. (15W50 or 20W20)
2. If the oil pressure is bitween 3 to 6 bar when hot with more than 3000rpm, oil
pressure is good..

Oil return is done by another 2-bolts flange under the turbo and then a oil hose. These flange
and hose must have a big enough hole for oil to go through easily. (Minimum 10mm without
no restrcition or big angle. 15mm is ideal.)
To connect the oil return hose, you'll have to drill the oil sump or the oil block.
To ensure a perfect flush of the turbo oil, the oil return must be connected in a zone of air in
the bloc. Not in the oil beacause the oil will restrict the oil flow going out of the turbo.
You can fit the 21mm fitting by taping the bloc or use any other method to connect the hose.
The oil return on the bloc/sump must be well under the oil outlet of the turbo. Oil will flow
only by gravity.
Failing in oil return assembly could create a little pressure in the turbo core and leak oil by the
turbine wheel. So you'll have lot of exhaust smoke and you'l detroy the turbo sealant rings.

If you see some oilsmokes on the firts starts, check your turbo oil circuit.
If the circuit is good, you can restrict the oil feed to 1.6mm for journal bearing turbo or 1mm
for ball bearing turbo.
V. Fuel pressure regulator installation
It will work on standard injection systems. High pressure injection circuits like on the
MAZDA 3 MPS is not compatible with our product.

The simpliest way :

-Start from the injection ramp,

-Follow through the standard fuel

pressure regulator
-Continue on the return hose (to
tank) and cut if shortly after the
standanrd fuel pressure regulator.
Connect fuel feed line on the
horizontal plug of the regulator.
Connect the other end of the hose
to the bottom plug of the
reguator.
Finally, cut the vacuum hose that
links the standard fuel pressure
regulator to the intake manifold.
Insert a T in this line and connect
the third line to our regulator and
you're done.

By doing that way, you won't be

able to lower the pressure under the standard level.

For example if you use big

injectors and you wan't to do
lowwer the fuel pressure,
here is how you have to
proceed :
Suppressing the standard fuel
pressure regulation :

Doing that, you'll only have

one regulator and it is better.
The best is to pull off the
regulator and adapt the 2
bolts universal adapter
supplied directly on the
ramp.
If you can't, try to suppress
the regulationin the regulator.
On some bosch regulator (eg. On clio 16V engines), you can cut the inner nipple so the fuel
can flow through the regulator without being pressurized. You'll then connect our regulator on
the return line normally.

VI. Intalling the Turbocharger, the exhaust manifold, the wastegate (if external) and the
exhaust downpipe.
First you have to look if the easiest way is to bolt the manifold and turbo together first or to fit
the manifold to the engine at first. The best is to ensure all those exhaust bolts. Standard
manifold bolt are usually automatically stopped from factory. For other you can fix some
special washers to prevent them from loosening. You can also use exhaust gasket paste on
threads and bolts to prevent the loosening..
Then fix the external gate if there's one. Ensure that all bolts on the gate are well screwed.
For a setup with internal wastegate, if there is a hole on the manifold for a external wastegate,
stop it with a flange (7mm thickness minimum) (not supplied).

Turbo

External wastegate

From exhaust manifold

Downpipe to catback

This picture shows you how the external gate is connected.

Also, you can leave the outlet pipe from the wastegate flow on the ground directly. Not
connected to the main exhaust pipe. When you'll be in-boost, gas will go out with no silencer.

Turbo rotating :
The turbo can be rotated in his 3 parts. Unscrew one or 2 turns on the 13mm hexagonal bolts.
Then you can rotate following these rules :
Place the oil return facing down. Scavenging will be done only with gravity.
For internal wastegate turbos, The yellow capsule, called the wastegate actuator, can be
relocated if needed. You'll have to keep a wastegate actuator rod angle as little as possible to
keep a good working condition.

External wastegate :
an external wastegate allows to rise the performances of the turbo. If the gas flow is not
disturbed before and after the turbine wheel of the turbo, it will run quisker and by the way,
make the compressor wheel flow more air to the intake manifold. You'll have a bit more HP
then. however the external wastegate install is often more complicated. Before the « PRO
kit » (or stage 3), it is not necessary to use an external wastegate. Even in the « pro kit » (stage
3), if the engine space contraints the install of the external wastegate or you wan't a simple
setup, prefer an internal wastegate. An extremely powerfull racing turbo engine will generarly
receive an external wastegate.
If you have an external wastegate, hook it up on the manifold (don't forget the valve seat of
the wastegate). The exhaust outlet could either be connected to the main exhaust pipe or
directly flowing to the ground. The upper plug on the wastegate mushroom (actuator) must
not be connected (only for very specific setups). The bottom plug must be connected to the
pipes between the turbo and the throttle body.

Exhaust piping :
For a low boost setup, standard exhaust piping can be ok. (must be decated - catalyser
suppressed). If you wan't to run higher boost and moreover higher horsepowers, free your
exhaust (silencers suppressing) or better, chose a 70 or 80mm piping. The bigger the better for
horsepower.
If you experience boost peaks, it could be a too little exhaust.

Important : When you will first start your engine. Disconnect the ignition so that the oil
pressure comes into the turbo before it rotates fast with the engine combustion.

IV. Installing the manual boost controler.

 VII. Installing the intercooler and it's piping.

The bigger the intercooler is, the better

it will cool the air, the more power
you'll have.
However, a big intercooler will have
more air to pressurize by the turbo. So it
will take a little more time to build-up
boost (less lag). You can have untill
0.5second more time to boost the
engine between each gear change.
The intercooler choice will also be done
depending on the place you dispose
behind the front-bumper. You may need
some cuttings to make the intercooler
fit. The important thing is that the
intercooler is well in front of a bumper
hole.
It is also possible to put it under the
bonnet if there is an extractor on it.
Our intercooler 530X170X60is an
excellent model with a quite big
volume to cool the air and a
reasonnable size to fit it in the bumper.

For the intercooler piping that link the

turbo to the intercooler and the
intercooler to the throttle body, care to
have the shortest tubing as possible. It
will limit the lag.

! WARNING ! IMPORTANT !
Once your piping and intercooler installed, put a plug
like on the picture. Put it on the beginning of the circuit
(just before the turbo of just after). Put some pressure
and check for leaks. Leaks will make your turbo run
faster and could destroy it.
Its is very important to do this test even if you believe
that your clamps are very well tightenned !

Leaks breakes all turbos even the more expensives !

VIII. Blow of Valve
The blow of valve is to free the pressure of the intercooler circuit when throttle-back. Indeed,
when you don't have any blow off valve and when you close the throttle after boosting, the air
pressure will rise in the pipes because the turbo is still spooling. A wave
of pressurized air will bounce betwwen the throttle and the turbo. This
will slow the wheel speed by making a high braking force. The air will go
in the reversed direction in the turbo and this will create the surge noise
that many people like.
This noise isn't good for the turbo as it can weaken the compressor wheel.
This noise will also brake turbo revings and it will take a bit more time to
build up the pressure again on the next gear.
The Blow Off Valve allow the compressor wheel to keep it's speed while throttle back by
opening the circuit to the atmosphere. More speed equals less lag = better performances.
It will also protect your compressor wheel from failures.
And you'll hear a special noise of the valve discharging the pressurized air into the
atmosphere.
The blow off valve can be supplied with its 63m adapter to easily install it on the the
intercooler piping. You can connect it either on the throttle body side of the intercooler or in
the turbo side of the intercooler piping.
The hose plug of the blow off valve must be connected to the intake manifold. If you don't
have a plug to connect the hose on your intake manifold, simply cut a hose that comme to the
intake manifold to fit a T. Then fit a hose on the T to the blow off valve.
The dump valve screw is to settle the compression of the inner spring. At first, settle it loose
not to hear the compressor surge noise. And then depending on the noise you prefer.

IX. Gauges
-oil pressure, oil temperature and water temperature gauges.
The oil pressure, water temperature and oil temperature gauge have 3 wires each. (Red black
and green)
The red goes on the +12V after ignition ;
The black goes on the ground.
The green is connected to the sensor you previously installed on the engine. (for example on
the T of the turbo oil feed line.
-boost gauge
The boost gauge has 2 wires (red and black) oor the integrated light.
The hose from the gauge must be connected on the intake manifold. As for the Blow of valve,
if you don't see any plug available on the intake manifold for the hose, just cut a hose that
comes as standard on the intake and connect a T on it. Then connect the gauge hose on the T.
-Lambda gauge
The lambda gauge has also the red, black and green wires. They are connected like the oil
tempreture gauges.
The green wire must be connected on the signal(0 to 1V) wire of your standard oxygen sensor.
Generarly it's the grey wire. If you have a signal wire with 0 to 5V ; then you have a
wideband sensor that won't fit our gauge for narrowband sensor.
If you're missing a sensor on your vehicle, just take one from a broker, and adapt it to your
exhaust and connect the +12 after ignition and the ground of the sensor itself. Prefer a 3 wires
narrowband oxygen sensor.
-Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge
This gauge has 4 wires, one red and one black for the light (+12 after ignition and ground)The
2 others are for the sensor. You can connect them directly because of their plug design. You
can't hook them up in the wrong way.
The sensor must be located as close as possible to the cylinders. One good option is to drill
and tap the edge of the 4 bolts flange between the manifold and the turbo. The maximum limit
should be 1000°Celsius. But prefer not to pass 950°C for a better reliability.
If the sensor is located just after the turbo, prefer not to pass over 900°C.
For good power, around 8 to 900°C is a good thing. The aim is to run the max timing possible
without detonation (headset needed), and have the AFRs between 11.0 and 12.5 to obtain the
best EGT's possible.

X. Breathers
All the breathers hooked up inthe intake manifold must be removed. Prefer to remove them in
a oil catch tank. If you don't do that, the turbo pressure will pass into the engine (over the
camshaft and crankshaft zones and you'll pop-up the oil level gauge or worse, you'll blow the
crank oil seals.
On the engine side, the breathers can be together in a single bigger hose to the oil catch tanck.
But the best is : one breather to one oil catch tank port.
This tank will collect the oil vapors to condensate them into liquid oil. To do so, ensure to
place it in a cold area of theengine. A little air filter on the tank to the atmosphere will prevent
any dust to come into the engine.

XI. Turbo chip

If a turbo chip have been supplied to you, open the ECU, unplug or desolder the original one.
Solder a support if needed and plug your turbo chip. Remember to respect the notch on the
chiop and on the PCB.

XII. Spark plugs

For a powered-up engine you have to install colder spark plugs. Doing that, you avoid hot
spot risks in the chamber. Then you won't have any pre-ignition because of that.
For a stage 1 and 2 (standard and premium kits), install 1 grades colder plugs.
For stage 3 or PRO KIT, install 2 grades colder.
If the engine have problems to start, you can go down for one grade.

For example :
if you have NGK's BKR5, for a stage 3 you'll put BKR7.
But becareful, for Bosch plugs it is revered, grade 5 will be colder than grade 7.
 III. Engine settings after installation

This capter will not treat about engine management tuning. This subject is for
professionnal engine management tuners. We higly recomend our customers to contact
them once the turbo fitted.
Indeed, an engine tuned by a specialist will insure a great reliability and a better power.
Of course it is possible to adjust engine parameters with adapted tools and our
explanations.

Startup, first tests ….................................................

Once the kit is well fitted, you have to check if the turbo lubrication is correct.
Reminder :
The fixing and the inner diameter of the oil return is critical.
This inner diameter must be 15mm. The minimum diameter possible would be 10mm.
There must not be any restriction in this oil return circuit.
The oil return must be place in the bottom end of the engine but upper than the oil level in the
sump. Idealy, you would drill the engine bloc, then, we're sure that oil has a correct flow.
Avoid 90° short bend in the oil circtuit, they brake oil flow.
Short test (15seconds) :
Unplug the oil return from the block (or sump) and make it face a basin or a can.
Start the engine, let it at idle and look the oil flow comming out. It should be a thin flow.
Quite stable.
Then rev a bit the engine to see the oil flow rising a bit and shut the engine off.
(After that, check your oil level)
If oil, come out dropwise, check your assembly, the turbo may not be correctly lubricated. If
you have an oil restrictor before the turbo, you can drill it 0.5mm or 1mm bigger.
If the oil flow seem's very important at idle and low revs, (this is the most common case) First
check your oil pressure to see if it is still correct. (must be between 3 to 6 bar while driving.)
If it is correct, check for smoke out of your exhaust. That could be the pressure in the turbo
core, that makes oil getting out the turbo wheels. If that happens, don't wait, put a restrictor in
your oil feed line. 1.5mm for journal bearing and 1mm for ballbearing.

First drives :
Start your first drive without creating any boost : low rev's, low throttle. The best is to unplug
the internal wastegate rod of the turbo. No boost should be created. (this test is not possible
with external wastegate except if you take the wastegate off the engin).
If the engine is running like before, then you have no electrical or mechanical problem created
by the mechanical job done.
Then make a test drive with very low boost pressure. As the wastegate is usually rated to
0.5bar, don't excced 0.2 or 0.3 bar. (boost controller shut off and throttle back above 0.3 bar.)
Accelerate slowly just to make the boost rise slowly. Check that the engine is correctly
working and feel the power rising up a bit.
The blow off valve could open in this particular situation (mid to low throttle with low boost).
If it does, you'll hear the noise of it, it is normal. You can settle the BOV spring a bit harder to
limit this effect.

Doing that, you'll check that all is correctly working. But you now have to check for a correct
combustion.

IF YOU GO WIDE OPEN THROTTLE WITHOUT HAVING CHANGED ANYTHING IN

THE FUELING AND THE IGNITION TIMING ADVANCE, YOU'LL BLOW YOUR
ENGINE VERY FAST.

Prefer to make the engine management tuning by a professional tuner whatever your turbo
setup. It could be a lot of money but it will save the money you've invested on mechanical
parts and make your engine run really better and really longuer.

Use only high octane rating fuels. RON 98 unleaded is good. E85 is 102 octane but need lot
more fuel.

-If you don't have any turbo chip supplied with your kit, reduce by 5° the timing of the
distributor or the Crank angle sensor. (using a timing light)
If you can't settle your timing, you can add some octane booster cans. But prefer a
professionnal engine management tunner.
Don't pass over 0.5-0.6 bar of boost unless you have a wideband AFR(not supplied), EGT
gauge connected AND knock headset)

-Check the Air fuel ratio and exhaust temperatures. :

The air fuel gauge supplyed is only a checking device and not really a tuning device.
If it moves fast while driving, it is normal.
Prefer to buy or to rent a wideband Air fuel gauge for these tests.
The wideband sensor is accurate between 10 and 20 of AFR.
The car standard narrowband is accurate only between 14 and 15 of AFR (read optimal on the
gauge)

(Reminder 10 AFR is really really rich of fuel. 20 AFR there is nearly no fuel. Too lean.)

What your engin needs :

It need 14 to 14.7 AFR while driving with low load. (load is the quantity of air entering the
engine)
When boosting, it needs between 11 to 12.5 AFR. The added fuel is to lower combustion
temperature. To choose how much AFR you'll run, it will depend if your egt are ok or too
high. If you have about 950°C EGT (a bit too high), you'll prefer 11AFR. If you have only
700°C(very reasonneable), 12.5 AFR could be enough.
Also, more timing advance means lower EGT BUT means you have to check for knock !

To adjust the amount of fuel, and if you don't have a tuning device on your ECU, use the fuel
pressure regulator. More pressure gives more fuel, less pressure= less fuel.
You should not pass under 1bar in the ramp at idle (vacuum hose of the regulator connected)
And not more than 4bar (still at idle with hose connected)

Prefer to be a bit too rich. Being too lean could create lot of problems. (that is why EGT
gauge is the most important gauge)

-knock detection : (see the knock part on capter I )

You'll find on the internet the cheapest knock detection method wich is the « det cans »
It is the cheapest methods that works.
An electronic knock headset like the « formula » is one of the best tool for knock detection.
A knock led light is not a good solution as it depends a lot on your engine noise. Prefer a
headset.
Once the setup is a bit rich like said before, begin to rise the pressure step by step.
Begin with low pressure and go on until the desired pressure.(0.5 to 0.6 bar for standard
compression ratios)
On each test check the lambda to be rich. And moreover, the EGT to be ok.

If you have a PRO KIT (stage 3) and you don 't have a special turbo chip for your engine, The
professionnal mapping is compulsary to run more than 0.6 bar.

Respect the warming times of the engine before boosting. Wait minimum 70°C of oil.
If you just come back for a strong run, let the engine cool at idle for 2 minutes before shutting
it off.

Trouble shooting :
-You don't have enough boost :
Your wastegate is not correctly preloaded. Check if the wastegate is well closed when engine
is off.
Your exhaust could be too restrictive. Make a test without exhaust line to check if it is the
problem (exhaust gas directed to the ground)
Solution remove silencers or make a custom 3inches (76mm) exhaust pipe.
Your turbo coud be too little. Quite rare but important to check.

-You have a boost peak and then the pressure falls down to normal level.
Your wastegate spring could be too tough or too preloaded.
Your exhaust pipe could be too little. Free it.
 -You don't have any boost.
Surely an opened wastegate or big leaks on the piping.
Check the opening pressure of the wastegate for example with a bicycle pump with integrated
gauge.
-Your car has low rpm's misfires and run correctly in high rpm's. You may be too rich
in low rpm's and correctly settled at high rpm's. Check the fueling (ECU management of fuel
pressure)
Maybe a rising rate fuel pressure regulator could be a solution if you can't reprogram your
ECU.

-You can't be rich enough on high rev's.

Have you fitted your high flow fuel pump ?
If yes, rise the fuel pressure untill 4.5 bar maximum. (at idle with vacuum hose connected to
rthe regulator.
If your still too lean, lower the boost pressure. Si vous êtes toujours trop pauvre, diminuez la
pression turbo.
If your pressure is normal and your still not rich enough. You'll have to invest on bigger
injectors and a rising rate fuel regulator. Or an ECU reprogramming !

Too much boost ? Be carefull, you could blow your engine !

Unscrew the internal wastegate rod or fit a lower rate spring in your external wastegate.

As it is written in the general selling conditions, SARL Laurent-motors is not responsible of

the use of modified car by it's customers. Either on performance part or turbokits. The
breaking of your engine don't give you any right of claiming anyting against SARL Laurent-
Motors. Ask a professionnal tuner to fit the parts in your car gives you this right in front of
him.

Laurent-Motors will be very proud to receive the pictures of your tuned engine. Videos of
your boosted car will be much appreciated. (regarding your country laws)

you can join us :

For French and English speaking : laurent-motors@hotmail.com

For German speaking : kundendienst@laurent-motors.com