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Scuba Confidential – Out of Control :: Middle Ear Problems :: Mariko Kusumoto Portfolio
US Wrecks
Northeast
Deep Wrecks
GLOBAL EDITION
Malta
November 2022
Training
Cave
Number 115
Diving
Taiwan
Penghu
Ecology
Moray
Eels
UW Photo
Cyprus
M E D I T E R R A N E A N
Leak-Free
Housing
COVER PHOTO BY STEVE JONES
1 X-RAY MAG : 115 : 2022
contents
DIRECTORY
X-RAY MAG is published by AquaScope Media ApS
© X-RAY MAG / AquaScope Media ApS
Copenhagen, Denmark
xray-mag.com
PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF IN MEMORIAM Diver on HMS Southwold, Malta. Photo by Steve Jones
Peter Symes Michael Symes, M.Sc, Senior Editor
Editor@xray-mag.com Barb Roy, Associate Editor
PUBLISHER, MANAGING EDITOR SECTION EDITORS

& CREATIVE DIRECTOR Andrey Bizyukin, PhD - Features
Gunild Symes Larry Cohen - Photo & Video
Gunild@xray-mag.com Catherine GS Lim - News, Books
Michael Menduno - Tech
ASSOCIATE EDITORS Ila France Porcher - Sharks
Scott Bennett, Toronto Rico Besserdich - Photo & Video
Scott@xray-mag.com
Catherine GS Lim, Singapore COLUMNISTS
Cat@xray-mag.com Matt Jevon - Opinions
Matthew Meier, San Diego Steve Lewis - Opinions
Matt@xray-mag.com Gareth Lock - Training
Michael Menduno, Berkeley Ila France Porcher - Shark Tales
Michael@xray-mag.com Mark Powell - Tech Talk
Simon Pridmore - Opinions
Russia - Moscow Lawson Wood - UW Photo
Andrey Bizyukin, PhD
Andrey@xray-mag.com CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE
Svetlana Murashkina, PhD John A. Ares
Svetlana@xray-mag.com Rico Besserdich
Andrey Bizyukin
Sweden Sheryl Checkman
Lelle Malmström Larry Cohen
Lelle@xray-mag.com Audrey Cudel
Robin Cuesta
ASSISTANT EDITORS Anita George-Ares
Rosemary E. Lunn, London Sofie Hostyn
Roz@xray-mag.com Steve Jones
Don Silcock, Sydney + Bali Kate Jonker
Don@xray-mag.com Mariko Kusumoto
Catherine GS Lim
USA Kyo Liu
Larry Cohen, New York City Lelle Malmström
Larry@xray-mag.com Nigel Marsh
Matthew Meier
ADVERTISING Michael Menduno
ASIA-PACIFIC
Juliette Myers, Sydney
Brandi Mueller
Yvonne Press 11 27 35 41 plus...
Juliette@xray-mag.com Simon Pridmore Cyprus Malta's Dive into Taiwan: Northeast Wrecks: Pt. 3 EDITORIAL 3
UNITED KINGDOM
Gary Rose, MD
Michael Rothschild, MD
byPeter Symes Deep Wrecks Penghu New York & New Jersey NEWS 4
Rosemary E. Lunn, London Gunild Symes & Lelle Malmström by Steve Jones by Simon Pridmore by L. Cohen & O. Torrey WRECK NEWS 8
Roz@xray-mag.com Peter Symes
TRAVEL NEWS 10
46 57 65 75
Olga Torrey
USA & INTERNATIONAL EQUIPMENT NEWS 56
Matthew Meier, San Diego
Matt@xray-mag.com My Favorite UW Pix: Review: Ratio iX3M 2 Ecology: Dive Medicine: BOOKS & MEDIA 59
Bold & Beautiful Dive Computer Moray Eels Middle Ear Problems MARINE MAMMALS 64
Contributors' Picks by Lelle Malmström by Nigel Marsh by Dr Michael Rothschild TECH NEWS 82
Contacts page: Xray-Mag.com
PHOTO NEWS 86
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COVER PHOTO: Wreck of HMS Southwold, Malta
Out of Control Diving? Not Me! to a Leak-Free Housing Mariko Kusumoto
Photo by Steve Jones (millionfish.com)
by Simon Pridmore by Yvonne Press by Kate Jonker edited by G. Symes
2 X-RAY MAG : 115 : 2022 Amsterdam Barcelona Cape Town Copenhagen Kuala Lumpur London Moscow Orlando Oslo Paris Singapore Tacoma Toronto Vancouver Warsaw
BETTER
editorial
Neglecting Basics
TOGETHER
A
© DEM
Being able to hover, move It just does not appear to be the first dive. Who knows for
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As I swim low and glide gen-
tly over a reef, careful not to
touch, I look up and catch a
its and techniques from the
onset. It is a shame really, but I
assume it is a question of time
smoothly and efficiently
through the water and stream-
line your equipment is not just a
Orange County Convention Center glimpse of a group of divers. and money for dive operators matter of style and elegance.
South Halls | Orlando, FL All but the one, who is obvi- as they are businesses. It is also a matter of safety,
ously the dive guide, are mov- because when you are relaxed
ing along rather awkwardly. The slack does not seem to be underwater, you are not out of
Most propel themselves picked up at any later time, breath and have more mental
forward in various postures however, so many divers keep and physical capacity to deal
between upright and prone, on flailing about as they get with any problems that may
but none are anywhere near stuck in bad habits or just do arise. You use less air, and you
being horizontal. As a result, not know any better. get less tired. The dive is also
their kicks are directed at a simply much more pleasant
downward angle, resulting in a It can go pretty far up the when you let the water sup-
bobbing, up-and-down motion chain too. I recall from my own port the whole of your body
through the water. Several look PADI IDC how about half of weight without any need for
like they are bicycling, and the instructor candidates in my finning—what I sometimes refer
hoses are dangling all over group, which were minimum to as “resting on an inverted
the place. It is a right mess to Dive Masters for starters, strug- waterbed.”
behold and not an unusual gled to hover in the pool. To
sight at some dive destinations. this day, I cannot get my head So why not make it easier for
around how some divers can yourself?
I get it that diving is a new set progress to that level of certifi-
of motor skills to acquire and cation and still not easily hover. In any case, since poor buoy-
hone when you are first taught It is not that difficult! ancy control is a major cause
to dive and that some fum- of damage to both natural and
bling about, in the beginning, Later, I conducted an artificial reefs and other habi-
is only to be expected. Proper Advanced Open Water tats, that is the least you can
posture, finning technique and course, and I started by revisit- do to protect the environment.
hovering take time to fine-tune ing the issue of correct weight-
and become second nature. ing. Among seven students, a — Peter Symes
whopping 29kg of extraneous Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
Practice makes perfect, so lead was removed and left on
why isn’t it happening? the jetty before we went on
3 X-RAY MAG : 115 : 2022 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO
GREG MCFALL, GRAY'S REEF NMS, NOS, NOAA / FLICKR / CC BY 2.0
Black sea bass
(Centropristis striata)
from the deep
NEWS
hovering over the
reef. Georgia, Gray's
Reef National Marine
Sanctuary.
Edited
by Peter Symes
National Marine Sanctuary system celebrates

50th anniversary
The National Marine Sanctuary tection, Research and Sanctuaries Act, law protects
Act was passed in 1972. Since which allowed for the creation of ma- these areas from
then, the system has added 15 rine sanctuaries. Since October 1972, human activities
the National Marine Sanctuary System such as pollution,
National Marine Sanctuaries has grown into a nationwide network habitat destruc-
and two National Marine of 15 national marine sanctuaries and tion, over-harvest-
Monuments. two marine national monuments that ing and coastal FACT FILE
conserve more than 620,000 square development.
Fifty years ago, the United States Con- miles of ocean and great lakes waters. cal, state, and national organizations. National Marine Sanctuary System
gress, prompted by the Santa Barbara New sites It would stretch from the southern
oil spill off the coast of California, three This landmark legislation protects all The National Marine Sanctuary system end of the Big Sur coast to the Chan- The Office of National Marine
years earlier, passed the Marine Pro- marine mammals in US waters. The is considering adding two new sites: nel Islands off Santa Barbara. It is the Sanctuaries serves as the trustee
Hudson Canyon, off the coast of New first tribal-nominated sanctuary and for a network of underwater parks
York and New Jersey; and Chumash if finalized, it would extend protec- encompassing more than 620,000
Heritage, an area right below the tion from Point Arena in Mendocino square miles of marine and Great
Monterey Bay National Lakes waters from Washington state

Marine Sanctuary. Hud- to the Florida Keys, and from Lake
son Canyon is the larg- Huron to American Samoa. The
est submarine canyon network includes a system of 15
along the US Atlantic national marine sanctuaries and
coast and is one of the Papahānaumokuākea and Rose At-
largest in the world. oll marine national monuments. 
The proposed Chu- County to Point Conception in Santa

mash Heritage National Barbara County.
Marine Sanctuary is a
grassroots effort led by Both have the backing of the Biden
the Northern Chumash administration. SOURCE: NATIONAL OCE-
Tribal Council in part- ANIC AND ATMOSPHERIC ADMINISTRATION (NOAA)
nership with several lo-
news
Edited by TO THE
EXTREME...
Catherine
GS Lim
TANE SINCLAIR-TAYLOR / SIMON FRASER UNIVERSITY / FLICKR / CC BY 2.0

Fish life on the Great Barrier Reef in Australia
Temperature and habitat changes have impacted

Australia's reef fishes
The reef fish communi- the team had focused on reef niche species that have adapt-
ties in Australia have been fishes as reefs provided many ed to specific habitats. Evidence
affected by environmental benefits to people and the of this can be found in the north-
fishes there helped maintain the eastern Australian regions.
changes. natural ecological function of
the reefs. Besides hoping that more
AND BACK.
For more than a decade, some widespread, standardised and
researchers in Australia have The impact of habitat and tem- coordinated local research be
been monitoring coral reefs perature changes varies accord- conducted to better evaluate
in the vicinity to see how ris- ing to the location of the reef. global trends, the team also
ing ocean temperatures affect Specifically, tropical reef fishes called for more climate-related
both the tropical and temper- appeared to be more affected reef research.
ate reef fish communities. by habitat change while those
at temperate and subtropical According to them, the chang-
The findings of their study was reefs were more affected by es they had observed around
published in the journal Current temperature changes. the Australian continent over
Biology. such a short time period indicat-
The research also revealed that ed that much larger changes
According to lead author Rick losing coral and kelp cover can were likely to occur as oceanic
Stuart-Smith, a marine ecologist lead to fish populations with more warming continued. 
at the University of Tasmania, generalist species, instead of SOURCE: CURRENT BIOLOGY
news
Bill Stone presenting via video
link at Diving Talks in Troia,
Portugal (right); Portuguese
photographer and biolo-
gist Nuno Vasco Rodrigues
(centre); Simon Mitchell on
in-water recompression (bot-
tom right); The Editory By The
Sea Hotel (below)
Diving Talks 2022 – report

Text and photos by Peter Symes sequels, with The Terminator and
The Godfather being notable
The second Diving Talks exceptions, often fail to get the
conference, held in Troia, same sort of traction as the first
Portugal, on 7-9 October one; and that book authors and
musicians frequently have less
2022, featured a stellar success with their second opus.
line of presenters, and I am not sure if I struck a
was another pleasant nerve because I could not help
gathering of like-minded noticing that our little chat got
diving enthusiasts and referenced a couple of times
in some presentations and
ocean lovers. talks later on. So, it is probably
better that I start off by clarify-
One evening, I told Arlindo Ser- ing, right off the bat, that was
rao, the organiser of the Diving nothing less good or interesting
Talks, that number two, follow- about the second Diving Talks and adjusted, its strong points
ing up on a prior success, was as compared to the inaugural further enhanced, and the less
often challenging. I was refer- one held in 2021. On the con- important aspects were weed-
ring to the fact that most movie trary, the concept was refined ed out. It has evolved.
Talks
Its defining characteristic lies in
its name. It was indeed about
talks and plenty of Q&A time
had been added to the various
presentations which enabled continued conversations dur- The session topics and quality conference is taxing to some
and spurred stimulating discus- ing the coffee breaks or over of presentations were largely degree because one is so
sions between the presenters lunches and dinners. from the top shelf, with some focused on listening in to pres-
and the audience. The presenters were quite a presenters being more at ease entations and taking part in
This concept is working well, diverse mix spanning from pho- or natural than others. One or talks all day long, and evenings
and I found it refreshing be- tographers, and cave divers two got a wee bit too aca- too. But by this yardstick, Div-
cause it erased much of the with some amazing footage to demic or long-winded but the ing Talks is, by a comfortable
usual barrier between the special forces, hyperbaric re- vast majority were fluid, profes- margin, the most relaxed and
presenters and the audience. searchers, explorers, engineers, sional and captivating. enjoyable event among the
The atmosphere became more freedivers and wreck hunters. All many I have attended over
inclusive and intimate which of whom were interesting and Relaxed the years—precisely because
eased the talks and spurred accomplished personalities. Attending any dive show or there was room and time for
Ellen Cuylaerts giving a presentation
news Presenter
Gareth
Lock (right);
Delicious dish-
es and coffee
break cookies
(below)
Kirk Krack giving his presentation (above centre); Presenter, photographer and X-Ray Mag regular contributor Brandi Mueller (above right)
have the conference facilities ber, I find, was also quite good were asked our opinions about tive and the few niggles I experi-
and hotel in the same places, timing. It didn't clash with other the event. It was not just nice to enced aren’t worth mentioning.
preferably under the same events and the weather was be sincerely asked about our Overall, it was quite smooth.
roof. Having attendees and quite pleasant. Compared to opinion and feedback, but I also Many thanks to the organis-
stimulating conversations with presenters staying at the same my home in Scandinavia, it was know it will be taken to heart ers and the sponsors for mak-
other dive industry professionals place also makes it easy and summerish but not hot. It sure and further improvements or ing it a pleasant and infotain-
with whom I had the opportu- even natural to have a nice was nice to be outside or have new ideas will be fielded next ment-packed event. I have
nity to connect with on a much chat over breakfast, lunch or the window open at night. year. The feedback and critique already reserved the dates for
deeper and more personal dinner. Or even make new After the event ended, we I had to offer were largely posi- next year. 
level than usual. acquaintances this way. As
At most other events, I also quality of this event, it is that I surely did so as I travelled
tend to have quite a long laun- you had the opportunity to home, I had plenty of contacts,
dry list of meetings and nego- hang out and really talk with business, and new ideas to
tiations, networking, or plainly some of your role models and follow up on. In the mix, I also
scouting for news. But this event other talented and accom- learnt something new, which
was not rushed, and the social plished people. is quite refreshing if you are a
component was pronounced. dive industry veteran.
Venue Troia is a resort complex Malaysia Scuba Diving Association (MSDA) has initiated a Food Drive Campaign to provide
Meeting role models The venue was also quite nice, some 50km south of Lisbon but support to diver friends who have lost work, business or have no source of income. We are hoping
If I must single out one main and it was always good to thanks to an excellent transfer to collect much-needed donations to help the struggling dive community.
service provided by the organ-
isers, who had a team greeting
just outside customs in Lisbon
airport, the last bit of way to
the resort was completely wor-
ry-free. The young crew were
pleasant and professional too
and keen to engage in a nice
conversation. They made one
feel quite welcome in a genu-
ine and heartfelt manner.
Timing
Having the event in early Octo-
Diving Talks venue at Troia resort complex, some 50km south of Lisbon
wreck
news The Ship That Tried to Warn the Titanic
Has Been Found
Edited by
Peter Symes SS Mesaba, one of the berg and sank on her maiden 273 shipwrecks
vessels that sent iceberg voyage, taking 1,500 lives and The Mesaba was one among
warnings to RMS Titanic, becoming the world’s most 273 shipwrecks lying in 7,500
infamous shipwreck. square miles of Irish Sea, which
before the ocean-liner were scanned and cross-refer-
sank, has been identified The Mesaba continued as a enced against the UK Hydro-
lying in the Irish Sea. merchant ship over the next six graphic Office’s database of
years before being torpedoed wrecks and other sources.
British merchant steamship SS whilst in convoy in 1918. Twen-
Mesaba sent a warning radio ty people, including the ship’s It was thought that 101 wrecks
US NATIONAL ARCHIVES / PUBLIC DOMAN
message to the Titanic on 15 commander, died. were unidentified, but the

April 1912 while crossing the number of newly identified
Atlantic. The message was Its exact location was unknown wrecks was far higher, as
received by the Titanic—which for more than a century, but many, including the Mesaba,
was advertised as unsinkable— with the help of a state-of-art had been wrongly identified in
but did not reach the main multibeam sonar, researchers the past.  SOURCES: EUREKALERT
control centre of the vessel. at Bangor University have finally
been able to positively identify
Photograph of the former German submarine U-111 while undergoing tests by the US Navy in 1919 Later that night, the supposed- the wreck and have revealed its
ly unsinkable Titanic hit an ice- position for the first time.
WWI German sub located off the US Coast

The SM U-111 was one of three Allied merchant ships the US Navy deliberately sank
five German U-boats from before the Kaiser’s surrender in the vessel, but its exact loca-
World War I that were sunk November 1918. tion was not disclosed.
in US waters and it is the After Germany agreed to the The U-111 was sunk on 31 Au-
last to be rediscovered. armistice in 1918, all seaworthy gust 1922 when its hatches were
U-boats were sent to the Brit- opened, and the USS Falcon set
According to an exclusive ish North Sea port of Harwich, off a depth charge by the sub.
report by National Geographic where most were cut up for When the U-boat sank, the US
(nationalgeographic.com), a scrap. However, a handful of Navy thought the seawater at
team of shipwreck hunters has the early submarines were sent the location was much deeper,
discovered an extraordinary to the United States to be stud- and that the vessel would sink
BANGOR UNIVERSITY / PROVIDED BY EUREKALERT

sunken vessel off the East Coast ied and reverse-engineered; to the seafloor at a depth of
of the United States: the wreck and the U-111 arrived at Port- about 500m (1,600ft). In fact,
of a World War I German U-boat land, Maine on 18 April 1919. the wreck rests approximately
sunk by US warplanes a century 120m (400ft) below the ocean
ago for target practice. Sunk on purpose surface near the Winter Quar-
By early September 1919, ters Shoal lightship along the
Commissioned by the German the U-111 had completed a Virginia coast. 
Imperial Navy in 1917, the 235- head-to-head comparison test SOURCE: NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
foot U-111 patrolled the waters against the American subma-
of the North Atlantic, sinking rine USS S-3 (SS-107). In 1922,
Multibeam sonar image of SS Mesaba lying on the sea bed in the Irish Sea.
wreck
news
INDONESIA
HARMONI
OUR BRAND-NEW
LIVEABOARD
Edited by
Peter Symes AWARD WINNING
SERVICE SINCE 1992
Diving wears on artificial reefs

Due to the unique experience Artificial reefs are increasingly used The damage level has often been
that artificial reefs such as ship- worldwide as a method for managing linked to the intensity of use and the
wrecks are able to offer, they can recreational diving since they have level of the divers’ experience.
the potential to satisfy both conserva-
be victims of their fame and suffer tion goals and economic interests. Poor buoyancy control
uncontrolled diving pressure. The majority of damages are usu-
Although there are negative impacts ally caused by mechanical break-
associated with mass dive tourism, age and sediment re-suspension. The
scuba diving has the potential to most prevalent type of contact is
generate substantial revenues. How- fin kicks, and it has been noted that
ever, balancing the divers wearing gloves
requirements of reef The ecological role of made contact with the
conservation with the shipwrecks as artificial substrate more often
needs of local host than divers with naked
economies represents reefs is well established and hands.
a considerable chal- they are often prime and
lenge to managers This type of damage
and policymakers.
exclusive destinations for is generally caused by
diving tourism. But they are inexperience and poor
Whilst artificial reefs also extremely delicate and buoyancy control; and
are not viewed as the advent of under-
perfect substitutes for sensitive environments. water photography
natural coral reefs, seems to contribute
artificial reefs have been shown to al- to an additional source of damage
leviate user pressure on nearby natural when divers try to remain still when
reef habitats. taking pictures by laying down on the PETER SYMES
sea bottom or grabbing and anchor- Gorgonian on railing at the stern of Cedar Pride, Aqaba, Jordan in 2002. Revisiting
Although scuba diving is considered ing themselves to irregularities that are the wreck in 2019, that same railing had no growth on it.
an environmentally friendly form of usually biogenic substrates.
ecotourism, several studies have shipwreck (Cyprus)” in the Journal and those differences in coverage
demonstrated the negative impact of In a study conducted on the wreck of Oceanography and Marine Re- and biological composition may be
divers on marine ecosystems damag- of Zenobia off Cyprus (referenced in search), diving was seen to have a used as an important and significant
ing organisms and habitats regardless “Recreational diving and its effects on significant impact on the macroalgae indicator of health status.  SOURCES:
of whether they are accidental or the macroalgal communities of the coverage of the shipwreck, especially JOURNAL OF OCEANOGRAPHY AND MARINE RE-
PETER SYMES
deliberate actions, direct or indirect. unintentional artificial reef Zenobia in areas subject to high levels of use, SEARCH, PLOS ONE
Cedar Pride, Aqaba, Jordan, 2019. Wreck
does not appear to have become more
overgrown since 2002. Rather the opposite.
PETER SYMES
travel
news
Edited by
Peter Symes
SAVE THE DATE

26-27.11.2022
Gdynia, Poland
C
CM
MY
CY
Sipadan Island, Malaysia CMY
Tighter restrictions for visiting Sipadan

K
Authorities are now limiting Effective 1 October 2022, one Advanced certification
the number of visitors who get permit will only allow two dives, required
to visit Sipadan each instead of three, per day. How- Going forward, divers will also have
ever, divers who have already to be certified as Advanced Open
day to 120. purchased dive packages and Water divers at a minimum. Technical Diving Conference & Trade show of many essential brands and companies you want to see.
registered with Sabah Parks will still One of the biggest international events organized by divers and for divers.
Sabah Parks has put stricter con- be permitted three dives at Pulau In addition, diving fees have been International speakers, diving talks, prelections, share of experience and meeting fellow divers.
trols on diving at Sipadan island Sipadan, instead of two. increased from RM140 to RM250
in an effort to better protect the per day for Malaysians and RM350 YOU SIMPLY CANNOT MISS IT
island’s sensitive ecosystem. Other restrictions include a maxi- for non-Malaysians per day per New location: Biblioteka Główna Akademii Marynarki Wojennej, ul. inż. J. Śmidowicza 69, 81-127 Gdynia
mum of 50 divers per dive site at individual. 
The coral reef has degraded any one time and there cannot be
slowly over time and the intensity a repeat of the same dive site.
or frequency of diving needs to
be retained, Sabah Parks director Each divemaster is allowed to bring
BUY TICKET TODAY ON
Maklarin Lakim said in a statement up to four divers each and dive pe- www.baltictech.com
to Malay Mail. riods are between 7:00 a.m.
and 4:30 p.m.
Cyprus
Sampling
Mediterranean Isle
Text by Peter Symes and Lelle
Malmström. Photos by Peter Symes,
Lelle Malmström and Andrey Bizyukin
travel Cyprus
Diver in swim-through at Geronisos Island (above and top left)
In the far corner of Europe, in wandering ancient streets while

the Levant and almost wedged sampling the local cuisine in style.
in-between Asia Minor, the I should probably begin with a
disclaimer: I have a penchant for
Middle East and Northern Afri- the Mediterranean. Residing in
ca and at the crossroads of the Scandinavia, where the wonder-
same, Cyprus offers a nourish- ful summers wane too fast and
ing mix of varied diving, cul- winters are dreary, dark and too
ture and cuisine. Lelle Malm- long, it is always nice to escape to
sunnier and warmer climes when
ström and Peter Symes went to the storms start howling and frost
check it out. starts to bite at night. The Med is
just a two- to four-hour flight from
Lelle and I surely got our fair share the lands of the Vikings, so I do not
of all the above in an action-filled have to contend with the weari-
week in the sunny island country ness of long trips, let alone whop-
of Cyprus, which saw us dive and ping jetlag, which tends to bother
explore different ends of the South me still more, when I must travel
Coast. Aside from some good long-haul.
dives, we also had some lovely land However, the main reason why I
excursions, including a day spent love this region is that in the Med,
up in the hilly, green wine country, you can do and see so much more
Diver on the Constandis wreck (above); Diver at ship's wheel on the Elpida wreck (previous page) Diver on Lady Thetis wreck
travel
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rather late arrival in Larnaca the the Elpida (which was sunk in and severe infectious disease evacuation transportation arranged directly by you may not be reimbursed. Emergency Medical Transportation and Travel
Assistance Benefits and Severe Infectious Disease and Quarantine Coverage Benefits are insured benefits underwritten for residents in all states except
Diving previous evening. It was already 2019 to become an artificial

New York, by National Union Fire Insurance Company of Pittsburgh, Pa., a Pennsylvania insurance company, with its principal place of business at 1271
Ave of the Americas FL 37, New York, NY 10020-1304. It is currently authorized to conduct insurance business in all states and the District of Columbia.
NAIC No. 19445. For residents of NY, Emergency Medical Transportation and Travel Assistance Benefits insurance is underwritten by The United States
So, let’s dive in—if you will par- hot, and the sun was brutal, as reef), and then, the mighty Ze- Life Insurance Company in the City of New York, NAIC No. 70106 domiciled in the state of New York, with its principal place of business of 28 Liberty
Street, Floor 45th, New York, NY 10005-1400. This is only a brief description of the coverage(s) available. The Policy will contain reductions, limitations,
Maintain Your Print
don the pun. Diving was indeed we assembled our dive kit at a nobia. I believe we were sum- exclusions, definitions and termination provisions. Coverage may vary by state or may not be available in all states.
NUFIC-SM-12299-2022EM4AD
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the first thing on the agenda in marina near Larnaca. moned so early to get a head
the wee morning hours, after a First, we were going to dive start, before the crowds moved
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3.0
TM
16MP Resolution
Divers explore the interior of the Elpida Divers with twin-tanks descend to the Flood Proof
wreck (above, left and top right) Elpida wreck (left)
4K Ultra HD Video
in and ruined visibility for good pic- big ship, and we had it all to ourselves. RAW Image Capture
tures. At least I hope so, because Maybe I could forgive our planners af- WiFi Share
that would be the only acceptable ter all, for getting me up so early.
mitigating factor for dragging me It was a nice wreck in many ways. 3 Dive Modes
out of bed before I had a chance Being an artificial reef, it had been both LCD Hi Res Display
to get enough rest. Those who know cleaned and stripped of objects that
100° Wide Angle Lens
me can attest to the fact that I am could snare a diver and penetration
not a member of the perky early had been made easier. The inner com- 143° Dome Lens (Optional)
morning people’s club. But there I partments were also quite spacious and
was, and somewhat robotically, I did not have any claustrophobic notes
got kitted up and checked my cam- rocket ships descending in formation to them, if one had such a disposition.
era, after which, I was all set. through the atmosphere of some alien So, we swam about. First, we went
planet, or skydivers wearing wingsuits. inside the long cargo hold, which did
Elpida. Once I slipped under the al- Maybe my vivid imagination just ran not contain much of interest, except
most glassy-smooth surface, I could not away with me that morning, tired as I for some skittish fish. It was just a big
see anything beneath me at first, but was, or coffee cravings were messing open space. On the other hand, the
a lot of blueness. Lelle and our guide with me. In any case, it was not long superstructure, such as the wheelhouse Micro 3.0 Pro Duo 5000 Set
Andreas were descending some 10 to before I picked out the contour of El- (where the ship’s wheel was still in
15m to my right, each with a wing BCD pida emanating out of the bluish haze place) and the stern were more inter- SeaLifeCameras SeaLifeCameras
and bright white double 12-litre twin set below me, in the distance. Gradually, esting, with lots of spaces, nooks and www.SeaLife-Cameras.com
on the back; they almost looked like it came into better focus. It is quite a crannies to inspect.
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THE SINKING OF ELPIDA
Text and photos

by Lelle Malmström
Elpida was sunk on 7 December

2019 as part of Cyprus’ project
to create artificial reefs and stim-
ulate the growth of dive tourism.
Elpida, which means “hope” in
Greek, is a large 63m container
ship from Greece. The wreck
now lies at a depth just shy of
30m. The main deck is at 20 to
22m, and the top of the masts
reaches up to a depth of 10m.
I witnessed the Elpida being
scuttled; it was an incredible
experience to see it. First, the
stern disappeared, and as air
trapped inside the vessel forced
its way out, cascades of water
shot high into the air. Then the
middle part sank, and seconds
later, the mast—the last visible
thing to disappear below the
surface. In the middle of these
last dramatic seconds, the ship
turned upright again, as if on
command. Powerful!
As with the other artificial reefs
in Cyprus, this new dive site has
now been colonised by many
different species of marine life.
We have already seen large
schools of fish attracted to the
wreck followed by hundreds of
chasing amberjacks. 
In the end, we spent almost topside, to put it mildly. But in the Diving with twin tanks in a wet-
50 minutes poking about, at water, they were quite comfort- suit was also a new combination
depths ranging between 16 and able and very well-balanced. I of equipment for both Lelle and
29m, so it was ultimately a mat- enjoyed the sensation of simply me, but it worked quite well. We
ter of deco-limits that made us having plenty of air with me, were both pleased with the com-
ascend, not running low on air. which gave me some added bination, and I would definitely
Those twin-12s we each car- peace of mind and made the opt for it again, if it was on offer.
ried were quite heavy to handle dives much more relaxing.
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Zenobia. About two hours and a Eventually, on 7 June 1980, Zeno- day. Despite this, I made it to the
snack later, we found ourselves bia capsized and sank in Larnaca wheelhouse area, before turning
descending on the nearby Ze- Bay, about 1,500m from shore, to around and following the deck.
nobia. If there is a diver, with a depth of roughly 42m (138ft), I passed under the vessel’s huge
just a bit of experience, who has taking its estimated GB£200 million starboard smokestack, which now
not heard about this wreck, they worth of cargo with it. strutted horizontally out, pointing
must have been living under a Famous as it was, I had surely into an empty void. I could not
rock. It is one of the most famous both read and heard plenty about even see the tip of it. I ended up
shipwrecks for recreational divers, the wreck, but I was not quite pre- in the bow area, before having
and probably the biggest within pared for how massive it truly was. to turn about to get back to the
the recreational diving range. It was ginormous and, by far, the downline. The ship was 175m long,
The Swedish-built RO-RO ferry biggest wreck I have ever visited. so it was a bit of a swim, while
capsized outside Larnaca in June As I descended and landed tugging a not-exactly-streamlined
1980 on its maiden voyage, under on the starboard side, at a depth camera rig along. So, I was left
circumstances that have since of about 16m, all I could see was with plenty more to see and ex-
provided plenty of fodder for vari- metal surfaces going on forever, in plore. But that would have to wait
ous conspiracy theories over the both directions. Okay, the visibility until the next day.
years. It appears that a problem was not exactly stellar, but it was Once I was back in my comfort-
with the ballast occurred, and the not bad either. In any case, I start- able hotel room later that after-
then-advanced computerised ed moving along, having little idea noon, it was still less than 20 hours
ballast system apparently had a where I was, or towards which end since I had left Copenhagen,
software bug, which prevented of the ship I was now heading. having taken an almost four-hour-
it from taking the intended cor- In hindsight, I should have stud- long flight, followed by a transfer,
rective action to righten the ship. ied a diagram of the wreck be- before checking in late. I was
Instead, it made the list worse by forehand and made myself more knackered but also filled with a
pumping excess water into the familiar with the site—my bad—or pleasant feeling of accomplish-
Divers explore the Zenobia wreck (above and top right). It is such a ballast tanks on the wrong side. just had a better briefing that ment as I nodded off, completely
massive wreck, that it was hard to capture its full size in one frame.
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Divers on the Zenobia wreck (above); Diver at the huge propeller of

the Zenobia (left); Sculpture park at Ayia Napa (top and upper right);
Amusement park at Ayia Napa (right); Nicomas Cliff dive site (far right)
splatted on my bed, still wearing the along extensive structures, struggling a it, pointing the camera upwards at
same clothes. bit to find some good angles to shoot. the giant propellers.
I do not know how many hours I The surfaces of the wreck were just For a long while, I grappled with
spent falling into a black hole be- so long and their dimensions so out- the temptation to sink down to the
fore Lelle rang and summoned me sized that the ends of them just disap- bottom at 42m. But I soon came to tive bars, fast-food joints and souvenir fer a much different sort of holiday.
to a late snack in the hotel bar, peared into the hazy distance; it was my senses. Being that far into the kiosks lining up and down the high Fortunately, the surrounding areas
which was on a terrace overlooking hard to find interesting compositions or dive as I was, it would probably have street. Alas, in certain quarters, there were quite nice, including an outdoor
the Mediterranean, sparkling in the defining edges. I could not move far resulted in a lengthy decompression was also plenty of hollering by drunk sculpture park, which I found interest-
moonlight. The mild air was a sooth- enough back either, to photograph obligation if I had darted down, and tourists behaving and dressing in ways ing, and was within walking distance
ing balm, and it felt rejuvenating to the vessel’s shape, without losing the I had not planned for that. So, I gave they surely would not at home. If you of our hotel.
be able to step away from the office wreck in the haze. it a pass. Next time, perhaps… Better are keen on bar crawling and kara-
for a few days. It was only towards the end of an safe, than sorry. oke, this is the place for you. There MUSAN. Ayia Napa also happened
already long dive, when I was nearly is even a fun fair with all sorts of joy to be the place where the MUSAN
Second day on Zenobia an hour into it, having already gone On to Ayia Napa rides, flashy lights and loud music. underwater sculpture park was lo-
On my next dive to the Zenobia, I had to a maximum depth of about 35m, Next, we went to stay in Ayia Napa for Suffice it to say, this is not my kind of cated, as we reported in X-Ray Mag
a better grasp of the site I was diving, that I spotted the vessel’s huge pro- a couple of nights. It was a fun-filled scene—but who am I to judge other not too long ago. We were supposed
as well as the general layout of the peller under me. I would have really tourist resort town where the partying people’s proclivities? Call me a bit to dive this site, but it was unfortu-
wreck, but I still found myself finning liked to get a shot from down under seemed to be perpetual, with fes- of a snob all that you like, I just pre- nately called off because winds were
travel Cyprus
Diver with sunken statue at

Turtle Bay (right); Divers with
green sea turtle in a sea grass
meadow at Turtle Bay (below)
Divers with green sea
ANDREY BIZYUKIN
turtle grazing on the
sea grass at Turtle Bay
(right); MUSAN under-
water sculpture park at
Ayia Napa is an “under-
water forest” of sculp-
tures by British artist
Jason deCaires Taylor,
which was installed in
2021 (left).
little sculpture park on the sandy Other than being an excellent site
bottom. The depth was just 8 to 10m, for students and novices, I did not
which made it an ideal site to take quite know what to make of this loca-
dive students. tion. We had quite a nice long swim
The statues were sort of cool and along the varied bottom contours, but
picking up quite a bit and the sea seemed to attract schools of smaller there was not much life to see—aside
became choppy, with plenty of roll- fish. Venturing farther out and across from a few skittish fish darting about,
ing white-capped waves. Later, on the moonscape-like terrain, we did here and there.
an evening stroll along the pier, we not see a lot of fish but just more
suddenly found ourselves under a big and more meadows of sea grass. Nicomas Cliff. I found the subsequent
sign stating that the Museum of Un- Turtle Bay. Earlier that day, we drove most sides. There were several dive Then, suddenly and out of nowhere, dive off Nicomas Cliff to be more
derwater Sculpture Ayia Napa was to a place called Turtle Bay, some- classes taking place here—or what we spotted a small green sea turtle interesting. Andreas had “warned”
right there in front of us, but under the what aptly named, we would later appeared to be divers in training—as peacefully grazing on the seagrass. As us, during our lunch break, that it was
now frothing waves. We had no idea. find out. It was a little cove around well as plenty of snorkelers. I moved closer to frame a good com- quite a “difficult” dive. But what he
Ah, well… It was still a beautiful moon- the corner from Ayia Napa. It was also Lelle, Andreas and I were still wear- position, the turtle did not mind my was actually referring to as being dif-
lit evening, despite missing out on one of the most ideal natural con- ing the same semi-tech outfits, so we proximity but kept on calmly munch- ficult, it turned out, was accessing the
the dive. Plus, our colleague Andrey fined water inlets for basic training I looked a bit out of place among all ing away on the veggies. Eventually, dive spot beneath a cliff—particularly
Bizyukin had already produced an have ever come across. For the first the other divers, as we swam through it took off and glided gracefully away if one was in bad shape.
article about it, which we published in 50m, the water is just thigh-, belly- or the shallow water to get out of the like a swallow, with a few but power- The path down the incline was not
issue #107. chest-deep—and it is sheltered on cove. Just outside the cove was a ful strokes of its flippers. too steep and had some steps but no
travel Cyprus
TOP ROW: Divers at Nicomas Cliff; Cyclops Cave at Nicomas. SECOND ROW
LEFT TO RIGHT: Soutzoukkos made of almonds dipped liked candles in syrup;
Super yummy souvlaki; Delicious Greek salad; Loukoumades, aka honey balls;
Fresh market produce; Narrow street with shops at the village of Obidos
big deal. I just went up and down a there was not a great deal of fish life There was risks pleasing no one.
couple times. I first carried my wing and to be seen. nothing wrong In my case, the only
tanks, and then my camera rig, before with the hotel local dish I got the first
going back up one last time to kit up. Cuisine food; it was two days was Greek which did not seem much, at first
No problem. We do this all the time Have I mentioned lunch? During the excellently salad. But boy, was it glance. No offence, but I would not
back in Scandinavia where most of the first couple of days of our trip, we only prepared and yummy! The lettuce have been able to pick it out among
coastline is rugged. Why risk straining managed to have meals at our hotels delicious. It was crispy fresh, the the many other similar-looking estab-
oneself carrying heavy stuff, or slipping? due to our schedule. Breakfast at the was just that many international hotels olives succulent and intense, and the lishments. Yet here I was served won-
This spot was more to my liking. It hotels were a given, but returning to tend to serve a somewhat same-ish cucumber crunchy. I could eat this derful souvlaki, so fresh that one could
was steeper, of more varied depth our hotel rooms quite late in the eve- range of standard dishes, such as stuff almost every day. I surely did not almost hear it bleat or moo, medium
and had a more interesting structure, nings, quite tired as well, for the first Caesar salad, chicken salad, tortel- mind that it was quite healthy too. done, so that it was still succulent, and
with walls, boulders and crevices. couple of evenings, we opted just to lini, burgers, etc—in order to offer But back to our lunch that day… it perfectly hit the sweet spot be-
Once again, we swam about for go downstairs for supper and quell our something for everyone, regardless of Between the aforementioned two tween too dry and too undercooked,
quite a while and managed to go instincts to venture out in search of nationality, I presume. However, in the dives, we went to a nearby little town with a slight but distinct note of smoke
to a depth of 25m. But once again, something genuinely local. attempt to not put anyone off, one and sat down at a local cafe or bar, from the barbecue.
travel Cyprus
View from Monument of Peace (top left); Flat ocean and dive
boat off Limassol (top right); Old street of restored buildings at
I realise I may now sound like a centre of Limassol (right); Compressor filling panels (above) and
downright foodie. I’m really not, but lots of tanks (left) at tank facility; Monument of Peace (far left)
I do appreciate good and proper
food. It builds and restores our bodies, where. It was a facility that serviced on the promontory opposite Cape picked up quite significantly. It was
and a good diet is the best medicine dive centres, not the general public, Greco, which is a national park. That more than brisk. It also made the view
too. If we elect to put premium fuel and provided all sorts of tanks and afternoon, we were supposed to dive all that more spectacular, with the sea
in our cars, why should we not give a gas fills. The facility had 580 tanks, so a location off the cliffs, just below the behaving so dramatically, at least for than virtual ruins), rather than tearing
thought to what we put in our mouths we were told, and an impressive array monument, but the weather forecast a few hours. I do not know how far we them down and building something
as well? But I digress… Suffice it to say of compressors, air banks and mix- had predicted quite strong winds, ren- could see, but it was at least 50km in modern. I applaud this principle. All too
that a good meal is also a right mood ing panels. The scale and capacity dering it impossible to go to that spot each direction. It was breath-taking. often, we see the historic identity of cit-
enhancer. It surely did the trick for me, were industrial. Here, or so it seemed, under the prevailing conditions. ies being ripped right out by demolition.
and I was quite content with life, as I one could get any size of tank and all Glancing down from above, at Limassol Our rooms at the Poseidonia Hotel
waddled out of there with a balloon- sorts of nitrox and trimix blends. There the cove where we were supposed This was my favourite town out of the offered the most spectacular view
ing tummy. sure was a lot of advanced hardware to go, it was clear why we could not three in which we stayed. It had a over the ocean. Some seven to eight
crammed into the premises. proceed as planned. Somewhat historic centre, which was undergoing floors up, I had a panoramic view
Tank facility mesmerised, we stared at the water continuous restoration. I was pleased over the ocean from my bed. What a
Between dives, we also paid an inter- Monument of Peace (promontory) below, which was being whipped to learn that much effort was going way to wake up each morning! Imag-
esting visit to a unique facility. At least, Later that same day, we went up to into a white froth by pounding waves. into restoring dilapidated old buildings ine having an office with such a view?
I have not seen anything like it else- the Monument of Peace, located At that point, the wind had indeed (some of which were not much more I could get used to that.
travel Cyprus
Lelle Malmström on Lady Thetis (top

left, left and right) and backlighting
the wreck's propeller (top right)
In the bay of Limassol, there

were also some quite interest-
ing wrecks, which were artifi-
cial reefs too. A pair of them,
the Costandis and Lady Thetis,
lay quite close to one another.
So close, in fact, that it was
hardly necessary to move the
dive boat.
Being artificial reefs, the
wrecks had been duly
cleaned, with the innards
made safely accessible for div-
ers. This also meant that there
would not be any historic arte-
facts to uncover; but it can still a USSR trawler built in 1989, sits with his torch backlighting the
be quite a fun dive. At least, I at a depth of 25m. Meanwhile, propeller and rudder of Lady
enjoyed them both. Lady Thetis, which was formerly Thetis. There were also a cou-
On the wrecks, one can a coastal passenger vessel built ple of big groupers taking up
spot schools of damselfish and in Hamburg in 1953, sits at a refuge here, keeping watch
parrotfish, along with jacks, lo- depth of 19m. over the wrecks.
cal sea bream and groupers. I think I managed to get Also, mind you, we spotted
Constantis wreck, which was quite a decent shot of Lelle, several lionfish inside most of
travel Cyprus
Grapes for wine on the vine

(above); Wine country in the hills
near the village of Omodos (top
right); Grouper on the Constandis
wreck (top centre)
Into the green valleys

Driving up the hills in the hinter-
land and into the green val-
leys, where vineyards are kept
and other produce is grown,
was a really nice diversion from
the wrecks. I find the lionfish probably entered via the Suez tipped with poisonous spikes the diving; it offered a comple-
rather good-looking and pho- Canal, and in the Caribbean, that you do not want to come mentary contrast to the dry
togenic, with its intricate fan- where it wipes out many of the in close contact with, so mind and sun-bleached coastline.
like fin structure. But sadly, it is local species for lack of natural what you grab hold of, touch First, we visited the ancient vil-
also an invasive species both predators that can keep it un- or bump into, if you penetrate lage of Omodos, which just so
in the Mediterranean, which it der control. Its fin rays are also wrecks. happened to be holding a reli-
Diver on the Constandis wreck (above and right)
travel Cyprus
Fried halloumi (left) drizzled with wine syrup (top

left); Chef searing the stew meat at high temps
(above); Adding celery to the stew (top centre);
Adding tomato paste (centre); Peeling taro arti-
choke (centre right), which must be broken not
cut (second from far right); Boiling the tortellini (far
right); Tortellini served with white wine (top right)
gious festival and market day. Gothic—not unlike old church- Cooking lesson perience of being taught or kasi (taro in English), and mut- tures before reducing the heat.
We soon found ourselves es we have up in Northern Eu- For lunch—and here I go on shown by the cooks how to ton—although beef or pork can After that, various chopped
wandering the cobblestone rope. The reason for this was, of again about the food, but for make a local dish with all the also be used. There are different veggies were added, as well
streets, looking at all the goods course, the long and intricate a special reason—we went ingredients already lined up. taro root varieties, but the vari- as broth and seasoning, before
on display. There were all sorts history of the region where cru- to a restaurant at Petit Palais For starters, we got grilled hal- ety grown in Cyprus is known as the stew was left to simmer for
of fresh produce, local special- saders and others were in con- Platres Boutique Hotel, which loumi, which is a special sort of Colocasia esculenta. The root, an hour or more. About ten
ties, including snacks and can- trol of the island. As mentioned, has a wonderful view over the cheese made for cooking. We which is some sort of artichoke, minutes before serving, some
dies—the likes of which I have Cyprus sits at the maritime mountainous surroundings. It were implored to always go must be broken off in lumps large tortellini were boiled and
not seen anywhere else. We crossroad between Europe was a bit cloudy and mark- for quality halloumi, as bad or and not cleanly cut, we were doused with a generous sprin-
sampled foods, getting tast- and the Middle East, Asia Minor edly cooler up here, which was cheap varieties also taste like instructed. Apparently, it opens kling of grated cheese (which
ers right and left and enjoying and North Africa—and it shows, both refreshing and soothing, it. Thick slices were seared until the porous surfaces that way. It was not parmesan). We had
ourselves mightily. if you care to pay a bit of at- as several days out on the sea browned and then sprinkled is also important to remember some local white wine to go
We also paid a visit to the tention, which I recommend and sun-baked beaches had with grape syrup and corian- never to wash kolokasi with wa- with the dish, and for dessert,
local church. It was full of pa- that you do, as it places things left my skin a tad sore from all der. Again, was it delicious? ter but wipe it with kitchen pa- some sort of halva (confection-
trons because of the festival. I in a wider context, giving more the UV rays. Wow! This was the real deal. per instead, as it gets peeled. ery) with cinnamon, syrup and
was intrigued to note that the meaning to what you encoun- Here, we had the most Next was a stew made from Next, the meat must initially ice cream. (See the recipe at:
architecture appeared to be ter along the way. pleasant and interesting ex- a root vegetable, called kolo- be seared under high tempera- yummycyprus.com)
travel Cyprus
Inside Limassol
Castle (above);
Ancient Vene
tian Bridge
(top centre);
Waterfall on the
mountain trail
(top left)
Mountain trek and a dam with

Having enjoyed such a full meal, we ducks. All this
decided to walk some of it off by tak- greenery and
ing a small hike on the mountain trails, fresh water was a nice contrast to the played a part in shaping the country
which went through a deciduous for- rather dry and bleached coastal ar- of Cyprus.
est with interesting vegetation. I soon eas where we had spent most of our
spotted some wild fennel flowering time so far. Limassol historic centre Sancho VI of Navarre, inside Limassol
and other herbs among the shrubs. But before too long, another event- Who has not heard about King Castle on his way to a crusade in
After a short walk, we came to an ful day was drawing to a close. As Richard the Lionheart—he, who came 1191. Their marriage lasted eight
ancient bridge that crossed a creek. we drove down from the high lands, home from a crusade at the end of years before King Richard died, after
It was called the Venetian Bridge and the sun sinking low, draping the land- the tale about Robin Hood? In actu- being hit by a crossbow while besieg-
was another testament to Cyprus’ scape in soft warm light and bringing ality, he never returned to England ing a castle in France.
long and complex history. out its contours, I drifted off in deep but died abroad. In any case, legend It was not a very big castle, so
Farther up the creek, there was also thought, pondering the many differ- has it that Richard the Lionheart mar- paying a visit was manageable and Old centre of Limassol at night (above);
the beautiful Caledonia waterfall, ent peoples and cultures that have ried Berengaria, the daughter of King worthwhile because of the exhibits Flowering rosemary (left); Cosmopolitan
Limassol coastline (centre)
travel Museum marble
relief sculpture
Cyprus
depicting pan-
thers (left); Antique
ceramics and tiles
at Limassol Castle
(right); Delicious
dinner in Limassol
(below); Antique
ceramic at Limassol
Castle (centre)
Inside Limassol
Castle (left).
Here, it is said,
that Richard
the Lionheart
married
Berengaria,
the daughter
of King Sancho
VI of Navarre, in
1191, on his way
to a crusade.
inside. On display were artefacts new, learning about the recipes such as Paphos Archaeological Geronisos Island
from different epochs, spanning and preparation too. Park, which covers most of the It only took a few minutes by
to early antiquity. I liked the in- ancient Greek and Roman city. boat to get out to Geronisos
tricate ceramics a lot. Surround- Paphos Today, Paphos is a popular Island, or rather the area sur-
ing the castle was a lively area According to ancient Greek tourist resort and is home to a rounding it, because the island
with restaurants and bars, which legend, the goddess Aphrodite fishing harbour. It is also home itself was nothing but a barren
were set in old, restored build- landed at the site of Paphos to Cydive, the dive operator rocky outcrop. The bottom con-
ings, some of which I assumed when she rose from the sea, that would to take us out on tour was quite varied, with rocks,
must have been warehouses, and old Paphos was the centre our last day of diving. Its facili- cliffs and lots of crevices and
tastefully decorated and fur- of worship of Aphrodite for the ties in downtown Paphos were caverns. Regarding topography,
nished. It was touristy too, but in whole Aegean world. In classi- quite nicely laid out, with a train- this was the most varied, fun and
a much classier manner; many cal antiquity, there were actually ing pool right in the centre of interesting of the dive sites we
of the patrons were clearly lo- two locations called Paphos: Old the premises. I was also left with got to visit. There was also sig-
cals, giving it a reassuring and Paphos, today known as Kouklia, quite a good impression of this nificantly more marine life out at
more genuine feeling. which lies about 16km east well-run operation. From Paphos, this end of the island.
One night, we had a magnifi- of modern Paphos, and New we drove farther west to St The boat was anchored over
cent dinner in one of the estab- Paphos, which was founded on Georges Harbour, a small marina a plateau, with a depth of
lishments right beside the old the sea near a natural harbour. just south of Akamas Peninsula, around 12m, from where one
castle. All the dishes were local, Archaeology buffs will have sites which was the most western part could easily swim outwards and
and we got to try something to visit to their hearts’ content, of Cyprus. relatively quickly reach much
travel Cyprus
Geronisos Island
had quite a varied
range of underwater
topography—rocks,
cliffs and lots of crev-
ices and caverns
(above, top right
and far right); Cydive
dive centre had very
nice facilities (right);
Dive boat moored
over a plateau at
Geronisos Island (left)
covered with a mix

of kelp and spong-
es, it was also more colourful if one can be explored time and time again.
brought a dive lamp. I would, however, recommend getting
some advanced dive training before-
Concluding notes hand to be able to fully explore and
deeper water. Just by swimming lei- If sprawling colourful reefs and macro- appreciate this majestic wreck.
surely about the formations, we were life are your main passion, then Cy- Cyprus also appears to be a good
soon down to 30m and could eas- prus is probably not the best choice location for any sort of dive training. structure is present, with plenty of dive One can just book a package holiday
ily have ventured even deeper. The and you should perhaps head out to The location at Turtle Bay is near ideal operators to choose from. at one of the many travel agencies
defining features of this location were Southeast Asia instead. But in all other for Discover Scuba and entry-level It is also a good destination for that serve Cyprus, and just hook up
various arches, holes and caverns, aspects, Cyprus checks all the boxes. training. But Cyprus also seems well- families and groups, as the island has with a dive operator on location and
which were fun to swim in and out of, The wrecks are quite nice and var- suited for further training, including plenty of other activities, things to do make your own mix of diving and top-
or through. As the rock surfaces were ied—and the Zenobia, in particular, technical diving, as the required infra- and places to see aside from diving. side excursions. 
Deep Wrecks of
Malta — A Wartime Legacy

Text and photos by
Steve Jones
travel Malta
Diver on the wreck of SS Polynesien, Malta (above and previous page)
The tiny Mediterranean country scooter surged to life, power-

of Malta has seen more than its ing me back to the line. A long
fair share of fighting through- hand-over-hand descent began,
out the ages, such is the sig- and the danger of overexertion
lingered on my mind.
nificance of its location. Steve Minutes later, we touched
Jones explores the fascinating down on the seabed at 65m,
wrecks left by the World Wars. but before me, I saw only a trail
in the white sand where the
A stream of water trailed behind the massive shot line weight was
bright orange buoy that marked our dragged. There was no sign of
descent line, making no secret that the wreck. We attached our
there would be current on this dive. own line to the shot line and
We jumped far upstream, yet any fast fired up our scooters again, following French liner sunk by U-boat UC-22
movement was made impossible by the rut in the sand until we reached on 10 August 1918 during the closing
the 100kg of gear I was carrying, and a colossal shadow that heralded stages of World War I, killing ten. It was
the buoy rushed past before I could our arrival at SS Polynesien, one of carrying Serbian troops at the time.
grab it. Without a second to waste, Malta’s most spectacular wrecks! Lying some 11km from Malta’s capital,
I squeezed the trigger and my Suex Le Polynesien was a 6,373-ton Valletta, this large wreck lay on its port Diver on wreck of Bristol Beaufighter in Malta (above); Diver with WWII wreck of a Royal
Air Force Blenheim Bomber, which lies at a depth of 40m, off the coast of Malta (centre)
travel
Divers on the wreck of the British steam tug HMS Hellespont, which was sunk by a bomb in World War II.
side and had an intact hull. An island under siege attacking aircraft. A ferocious and
We had arrived on the wreck During World War II, Malta unrelenting aerial war broke out
amidships and headed toward became one of the most bombed that proved challenging for pilots
the bow, viewing the spectacular locations in history. Its position was from both sides, some of whom
superstructure on the way. A soli- important to British forces as they had already faced each other in
tary gun stood upright, encrusted attempted to disrupt the sup- the equally fierce aerial war in the
in marine growth amongst deck ply lines to the opposing armies Battle of Britain.
machinery. We then looped they were facing in North Africa. The key to Malta’s survival was
around and headed back Initial attention from Italy was met to keep the island supplied, and
toward the stern where open with stubborn resistance, but the convoys became the vital life-
holds and shafts enticed deeper Italians were soon reinforced with line. Allied aircraft carriers made
exploration of this 150m-long ship. highly capable German forces dangerous passages through
In what seemed like no time at with a clear objective: Malta had the Mediterranean to get within
all, we reached our time limit, yet to be neutralised as a threat once range to fly their fighters to the
only a fraction of the wreck had and for all! island. Cargo ships carrying food,
been explored on this one dive. Malta was besieged and the fuel and ammunition were under
During the long decompression population starved. Constantly constant attack, which continued
stops, I pondered which areas short of ammunition and fuel, even if they made it to the har-
to visit on my next dive on this outnumbered defenders were bour. Much of the legacy of the
majestic wreck. faced with increasing numbers of battle for Malta can still be found
travel Malta
in the clear blue waters that sur- now make two separate dives, as es could be seen in their racks,
round this tranquil island. they lie 300m apart. The bow lay and amazingly, the nameplate
completely on its starboard side of the ship was still there. Taking
HMS Southwold in 68m of water, and we started artefacts from any wreck here is
In March 1942, with the siege at our exploration near the area strictly forbidden, evidenced by
a peak, convoy MW10 steamed where the ship was torn into two, the number of personal items that
toward Malta with desperately a scene of complete devastation still lie on the wrecks, preserving
needed supplies. They were spot- with masses of torn, twisted metal. the scene from the day they went
ted by an Italian battleship, but We scootered forward, pass- down. Dropping over the stern to
rather than retreat, the vastly out- ing the top of the recognisable the seabed, I arrived at the huge
gunned escorts attacked and, bridge. The whole forward area propellers, still attached, before
despite taking heavy damage, of the ship was still intact with our time constraints at this depth
prevented the cargo ships from the main guns pointing straight drew this visit to a close.
being intercepted. As a conse- toward the bow. On several occasions in 1942, this
quence, however, the convoy’s A few days later, we ventured country’s fate hung in the balance
arrival was delayed until the day- to the stern, which at 72m, lay and the surrender date, when fuel,
light hours, exposing it to aerial slightly deeper and was upright. food or ammunition would run out,
attack. HMS Breconshire was hit, Aside from the damage at the was sometimes only weeks away.
and when the destroyer HMS break, it was in very good con- However, with dogged resistance
Southwold attempted to tow the dition, and our first sight was aided by increasing numbers of
stricken tanker away from a British the rear guns, which were still deadly Spitfire fighters making it
minefield, a mine exploded, killing angled upwards as if ready to fire, through the blockade, the aerial
five. Southwold’s hull then split into reminding us that this ship was at battle began to swing in favour
two, whilst she was under tow. battle stations when it went down. of the defenders. The Axis powers
These halves of the Southwold Neatly arranged depth charg- changed their tactics, concentrat-
THIS PAGE: British destroyer HMS Southwold, which lies at 70m, was sunk by a mine in WWII.
travel Malta
THIS PAGE: The wreck of a German

Schnellboot, a fast-attack torpedo boat,
resting at 65m. The wreck is covered in
ammunition, depth charges and the tor-
pedo tubes are still loaded.
strophic explosion. Ammunition cases

lay scattered amongst numerous
artefacts, and we swam past oil bar-
rels before coming to the engines.
This craft had not one but three huge
Daimlers that provided 3,960BHP to
the ship, which weighed only 102
tonnes, propelling it up to 38 knots.
My dive partner, Steve Wilkinson,
ing their efforts on trying to stop the Schnellboots (fast-attack torpedo frame, but the wood had long since carefully placed my high-powered
convoys that were keeping Malta in boats) set off to sink the Welshman rotted away, giving it a distinctive Orcalight inside the hull. The beam set
the fight. before it could reach Malta. appearance. It was a small 35m-long up a surreal parting scene, making
Whilst laying a minefield, the S-31 wreck, but at a depth of 65m and the wreck resemble a dragon’s head,
“Malta is one huge battery Schnellboot exploded, probably after with plenty to see, there was no time breathing fire one last time.
of anti-aircraft guns.” detonating one of its own detached to waste. Swimming down from the
mines. Half of the crew of 26 lost their bow, we soon came across the huge Stubborn by name,
— Luftwaffe Ju 88 Bomber pilot lives. port-side torpedo tube, where an open stubborn by nature
A current-free descent revealed a door revealed a loaded torpedo. Regardless of which side they fought
Exploring S-31 Schnellboot wreck like no other I had seen before, S-boats had two of these 533mm diam- for, the life of the submariner during
HMS Welshman was a fast ship, tar- looking more like a dinosaur’s skeleton eter torpedo tubes and packed a both world wars was fraught with
geted by the Axis powers due to than a torpedo boat. The S-boats mighty punch. danger. The statistics say it all: 52
its success on supply runs to Malta. were built for speed, constructed of a Slightly aft of the torpedo tubes, US, 79 British and a staggering 784
In May 1942, a flotilla of seven mahogany outer hull and light metal we came to the scene of that cata- German submarines were lost in WWII,
travel
MALDIVES EGYPT
THE DIVER’S
CHOICE FOR
30 YEARS
AWARD WINNING
SERVICE SINCE 1992
THIS PAGE: Scenes from the wreck of the British submarine

HMS Stubborn, which lies at 55m of depth.
with little chance of any crew mem- dive or ascent.

ber surviving a sinking. It was a som- It was in 1944
bre thought, before we descended that problems with
onto a British S-Class submarine. the rear hydroplanes nearly brought heavily damaged. As it set sail for
The cigar-like shape of this heavily about the end of this ship. Following home, the rudder then disconnected,
armed, highly manoeuvrable patrol an unsuccessful attack on a German but Stubborn was true to its name
vessel appeared out of the blue convoy in Norway, the escorts retali- and made it back, its hull resembling
gloom, and we arrived near a well- ated with 36 depth charges, jamming a skeleton’s chest due to the buckling
preserved conning tower, which lit up HMS Stubborn’s rear hydroplanes in caused by the water pressure.
in beautiful shades of red and yellow hard dive position and sending it to We dropped to the seabed at 55m,
under our powerful lamp beams. In over 115m. The vessel resurfaced and the sleek, knife-edge bow came
the crystal-clear water, we could see twice, still under attack before a third into view, along with the forward
the deck stretch away to the bow, uncontrolled dive sent it beyond torpedo tubes of which there were
and it was easy to imagine the view 150m, much deeper than its maxi- three on each side, giving the wreck
the captain once had whilst the ship mum operating depth! an aura of menace. It rested nearly
was at the surface. Swimming for- The Stubborn bounced off the upright with a slight list to starboard,
ward along that deck, we passed an seabed four times, as a further 16 which allowed the sunlight to bathe
open hatch before coming to the depth charges exploded nearby. The the port side, illuminating this remark-
large hydroplanes, which controlled attackers broke off, and the crew just ably well-preserved wreck.
the submarine’s pitch in the water, managed to generate enough gas HMS Stubborn finished the war in
helping to determine the angle of to get their sub back to the surface, the Far East, during the final months
travel NAUI HERO LIMITED
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Diver with wreck of British destroyer HMS Maori, which lies at 10-15m in Valletta harbour. Maori was sunk by a
bomb in WWII. It is famous for helping pick up survivors from the sinking of the German battleship Bismarck.
THE NAUI &
of the battle against Japan. tance that, if it had fallen, it
SKILLBRIDGE
PARTNERSHIP
has included colossal battle-
Afterwards, it made a final could well have affected the ship wrecks in the deep north
visit to Malta where its career tide of the North African cam- Atlantic and sub-zero encoun-
ended. It was scuttled as an paign. In these waters, divers ters with apex polar predators
anti-submarine warfare target can now visit the legacy of one to equatorial seascapes awash The SkillBridge Program is an opportunity for service members to gain valuable civilian work experience through specific
in 1946. Even though the British of World War II’s lesser known, with strong currents. He is a industry training, apprenticeships, or internships during their last 180 days of service.
Royal Navy knew its location, it yet pivotal, battles.  Blancpain Edition Fifty Fathoms
was not until 1994 that its posi- photographer, a field editor at SkillBridge is an opportunity for service members to access and leverage the world’s most highly trained and
tion became known to divers. Special thanks go to operator the Ocean Geographic Society motivated workforce at NO COST for up to 180 days. Service members who participate in SkillBridge receive their
By November 1942, German DiveWise Malta/TechWise Malta and a member of the Ocean
military compensation and benefits, through a NAUI VA approved testing center; who will provide the training and
and Italian air power were (divewise.com.mt/techwise. Artists Society. His thoroughly
diverted to support the fierce com.mt), and to models Steve researched writing covers both work experience.
fighting in North Africa, and the Wilkinson, Stephen Scerri, Howard maritime history and marine
siege of Malta came to an end. Shaw and Alan Whitehead. ecology. Visit: millionfish.com Our internship allows service members to use their G.I. Bill® to become a NAUI
The Allied aircraft stationed here Dive Professional at one of NAUI’s 65 VA approved testing centers around the world.
continued to disrupt Axis supply Steve Jones is an underwater SOURCES:
lines utilising formidable strike photographer and journal- HOLLAND, J. (2009). FORTRESS MALTA:
aircraft such as the Beaufighter, ist, whose award-winning work AN ISLAND UNDER SIEGE 1940-1943. HEAD OVER
WEIDENFELD AND NICHOLSON.
putting further strain on Axis has been published in over 40 TO LEARN MORE
commander Erwin Rommel’s countries during a career span- LEMON, P.G. (2016). SCUBA DIVING
already pressurised forces. Such ning three decades. As a true MALTA—GOZO—COMINO. DELTOR LTD,
CORNWALL.
was the Battle of Malta’s impor- all-rounder, his list of assignments
travel Malta
MALTA’S OTHER WARTIME WRECKS
Text and photos by Steve Jones
Beaufighter: The hardy twin-

engine Beaufighters saw much
service in Malta. This aircraft
took off on an anti-shipping mis-
sion in March 1943 but devel-
oped engine trouble. Both crew
members escaped unharmed.
The wreck is at 40m on bright
white sand, a short boat ride
out from DiveWise Malta.
Blenheim Bomber: Shot down by

an Italian fighter in December
1941. The pilot ditched at sea
and all crew members were res-
cued. Now, it lies at 40m, with
one propeller still attached.
HMS Hellespont: A paddle

steamer tug sunk by Axis air-
craft in April 1942, it lies upright
at 45m outside Grand Harbour,
with lots to see.
HMS Maori: A destroyer that

participated in the hunt for
the mighty German battleship
Bismarck, this is a popular shore
dive in around 15m of water in X127 Lighter: Originally built to
the Grand Harbour. It was sunk support the ill-fated WWI Gallipoli
by a bomb in 1942, and later landings, then used as a fuel
cut into two. The bow lies in St barge when it was sunk by dive
Elmo’s Bay whereas the stern bombers right in front of the sub-
was towed to deep water. marine base on Manoel Island in
1942. Lies between 5 and 22m.
HMS St Angelo: A tug used as a Visibility is often poor but it is a
minesweeper, it was sunk in May historically interesting wreck.
1942, and lies at 55m near the
harbour. Worth knowing: Over the past
few decades, multiple other
HM Drifter Eddy: A small mine- ships such as the massive Um el-
sweeper struck by a mine in Faroud have also been deliber- Royal Air Force Bristol Beaufighter (above); British steam tug HMS Hellespont (top right); X-Lighter craft
May 1942 with the loss of eight ately sunk as dive sites. Malta is X127, famed for taking part in the Gallipoli landings in WWI, was bombed and sank in Valetta's harbour
lives. Wreck lies at 55m. a wreck diver’s oasis.  in WWII (top left); Diver on and inside the wreck of the massive Um el-Faroud, which was deliberately
sunk as an artificial reef (centre and left)
Penghu Dive into Taiwan, Part 2
Text by Simon Pridmore
Photos by Kyo Liu
travel Penghu
Table corals, Penghu in Taiwan (above); Penghu beach scene (top right);
SOFIE HOSTYN
Anemonefish on anemone garden (right); Persian carpet flatworm (previous page)
The Penghu Islands, an archi- people. Taiwan offers some very

pelago of 90 islands and small good scuba and a network of dive
rocks in the middle of the centres and resorts, with first-class
professional staff, equipment and
Taiwan Strait, is a location of services. They offer scuba experi-
incredible landscapes with ences, basic training courses and
unique basalt columns and fun diving for a young, enthusiastic
is home to some of Taiwan’s first generation of Taiwanese divers.
most beautiful beaches and Yet, when divers elsewhere in the
world think about diving destina-
marine protected areas, tions, Taiwan is unlikely even to be
which offer some of the a blip on their radar screen. Very
best diving in Taiwan. Simon few people outside Taiwan have
Pridmore has the story. ever thought to enquire about the
diving there, and very few people
inside Taiwan have ever thought to
Taiwan is a group of Pacific islands tell anyone about it. That was until
surrounded by warm tropical seas. a couple of years ago, when some The book is called Dive into
It is easy to get to and get around, far-sighted folks asked me and Taiwan, and this is the second in
and it is a first-world society with Taiwanese underwater photogra- a series of six articles, each cover-
outgoing, friendly, laid-back pher Kyo Liu to write a book. ing one of Taiwan’s diving regions,
travel Penghu
Penghu's unique geological formations of

basalt columns, with old bunkers (above);
Submarine postbox (right); Island temple (left)
Penghu and the most distinctive of these is off and it carries a maximum of 24 div-
You have prob- Suogang Village on Penghu, where ers, which means that the sites in and
ably never heard there is a submarine mailbox at a around the MPA see fewer than 700
of Penghu. Yet, it is depth of around 5m. Local dive cen- divers per year.
a substantial archi- tres sell waterproof cards for divers
pelago consisting of to send underwater wishes to friends A typical South Penghu dive trip
90 islands and small and family—written in waterproof ink, You need to be at the dock early
rocks in the middle naturally. The centres then take turns for a 9:30 am departure. It is already
of the Taiwan Strait emptying the mailbox and posting hot but, if you get there early, there
and its main city of the cards off. is plenty of shade available. The
Magong is home Experienced, adventure-seeking dive boat appears and offloads the
to 60,000 people. divers, however, will eschew the people from the previous trip to make
designed to give you a flavour of The Penghu Islands are a spectacular beaches of Magong and head room for you. The boat has a covered
what to expect from a Taiwan dive geological marvel, they have some straight down to southern Penghu for dive deck with tank racks and the air-
trip. The book covers much more than of Taiwan’s most beautiful and desert- boat diving and some more challeng- conditioned cabin has rows of seats
diving. It talks about the people, coun- ed beaches, and a Marine Protected ing sites. There is only one dive opera- like a small ferry.
tryside, cities, food and lifestyle to give Area (MPA) that has arguably the tor currently offering dives inside the The journey to Jiangjunaoyu takes
readers a fully immersive experience— best diving in Taiwan. MPA and it runs 4-day/3-night pack- about 45 minutes. You can chill in
diving into Taiwan in every way. But, in There are a few diving operations in ages between April and September, the aircon, but the best views are
this series, I will just focus on the under- Magong City, but they tend to con- with pick-up from Magong Harbour from the dive deck, especially as you
water attractions, with the help of centrate on providing scuba experi- early on day one and drop-off early pass tiny Tongpanyu and long, thin
Kyo’s amazing photographs. ences and beginner courses for non- on day four (which is day one for the Hujingyu soon after leaving Magong.
divers. The sites are all shore dives, next group). They have only one boat Both islands have long coastal ridges SOFIE HOSTYN
Map of Penghu Islands in Taiwan

travel Penghu
Stingray inside Lingyun Wreck (above); Diver with cuttlefish (top right); Diver explores the interior
of Lingyun Wreck (lower right)
of basalt pillars and old, long-disused Lingyun Shipwreck around the wreck, the seabed is cov-
pillboxes and gun emplacements Due south of Qimei lies the wreck of ered in a field of white coral whips,
wedged into the cliffs. a decommissioned Taiwanese Navy which undulate gently in the flow.
You soon enter a narrow strait Lingyun-class inter-island passenger/ The deck has a few large inviting
with the flat expanse of Wangan cargo vessel, sunk twenty years ago as holes and offers some easy swim-
Island on the right and, on the left, a fish aggregation device. It rests on its throughs. Outside the ship, the visibili-
Jiangjunaoyu, your home for the next starboard side in the middle of a large ty may be poor, depending on which
three days. In the harbour, fishing sand pit at 30m. These days, it seems way the current is running, but inside,
boats are lined up at the docks on to attract divers, rather than fishermen, the water is gin-clear, though dark. At
all sides. Your cylinders are waiting for as there are no nets on it, nor is there least, it is like that before any careless
you in front of the blue walls of the any other sign of fishing activity. divers go in and swim too close to
Island 77 Dive Centre. You unpack There is not much coral growth, but the silty floor.
fins, BCDs and regulators and leave there are plenty of fish and it is in the Having said that, on this wreck, it is
them beside the boat for the crew open sea, so expect some current. If not always the divers that are to blame
to load. After lunch, you reboard the the water is running, the dive boat will for a silted-up swim-through. Any one
boat and head south towards the drop you upstream so you can drift to of the spaces you enter may already
MPA, passing a series of rocks that, in the wreck as you descend and then be occupied by a group of huge mar- We had come upon the rays and flapping in agitation, throwing up
summer, provide a temporary home tuck in behind the ship in the calmer ble rays that live inside the ship. what we were getting were glimpses clouds of silt into the previously clear
for thousands of migrating terns. Your waters on the lee side, in the cur- On one Lingyun dive, as we drifted of the white underside of their mas- water and turning the visibility to zero.
first dive will be a checkout dive in a rent shadow. Ideally, this will be the lazily down a corridor, our lights illumi- sive skirt-like fins as they gently circled Outside the wreck, you can expect
shallow bay, where there is little cur- deck side with its superstructure and nated a bright flash of white ahead in the darkness. As we drew closer, to find schools of barracuda, trevally,
rent or wave action. cargo booms, rather than the hull. All of us. Several more flashes followed. they became aware of us and began batfish and rabbitfish as well as blue-
travel Penghu
Oriental sweetlips at Wolf East (above);

Island 77 dive boat (left inset); School of
barracuda at Wolf East (far left)
striped angelfish and red-bar anth- the tip of the island. Again, there will be current running
ias. You will also see a wide variety of You drop into calm waters in the through the site, but navigating your
unusual surgeonfish, many of which shallows and your guide leads you way around the rocks is usually quite
do not feature in any of the standard out to the edge of the bay, does a easy. It is worth pointing out here that
marine life guides. This is something quick check to make sure you are Penghu, Green Island and Orchid
experienced Coral Triangle divers com- ready, and then gives the signal to Island are all well known for drift div-
ing to Taiwan for the first time will notice go. After just a few kicks, the current ing, but conditions are certainly no
all over the place. Many of the fish you picks you up and sends you flying. more difficult here than at other dive
encounter are like the ones you are The pattern of the dive is to fly for a destinations elsewhere in Asia famous
used to seeing, but they have different while, then stop in a patch of the reef for strong currents, such as Komodo,
patterns, designs and configurations. where there are bommies to hide Bali or Raja Ampat.
behind, out of the main thrust of the
Wolf East current. A reef hook is a handy thing Dongjiyu Lavender Fields
The dive off the south of Dongjiyu that to have with you at this point. You once you are deep, there is no turn- smaller bommies around it acts as a These fields of lavender-blue staghorn
they call Wolf East is likely to be the wait for a few minutes to see if the ing back—hence the wisdom of the magnet for oriental, gold-spotted and coral are famous all over Taiwan.
most exciting and rewarding of your barracuda come along and, if they fly-hang-fly-hang strategy. If you were silver sweetlips, black snapper and Along with the twin-heart-shaped
Penghu dive trip, although, as always do not, on your guide’s signal, you just to fly, you would soon be in water red snapper, many and various types fish weirs of Qimei, they are an icon-
with big-animal encounters on land let go and fly off to the next stopping too deep for you to be able to follow of surgeonfish, semi-circle angelfish, ic symbol of Penghu. This is mainly
or sea, nothing is ever guaranteed. point. If they do show up, you hang the seabed down any farther and the blue-lined angelfish, blue-barred par- because they are accessible not just
The main attraction here, apart from with them for as long as you can as dive would quickly be over. rotfish and regal angelfish. The list to divers, but snorkelers too, and a
schools of surgeonfish, snapper and they swirl and surge around you. goes on. The rocks are completely swim over the top of this reef is part of
sweetlips, is a giant school of very The direction of the current flow Dongxiji Channel covered in red, short, flowery algae many of the island-hopping tours.
large, fat yellowtail barracuda, which here usually means that the farther In-between Dongjiyu and Xijiyu, an and yellow tubastraea, making this a At depths of 6m and less, the purple
hang in the current sweeping around you go, the deeper you get and, enormous pinnacle with a series of very scenic dive. staghorn is juxtaposed photogenically
travel Dive into Taiwan
by Simon Pridmore
“In this book, Simon Pridmore takes the
reader beyond the beaches and into
the waters of six regions of excellent
and exciting diving and snorkelling
that the Taiwanese have enjoyed for
some time—while the rest of the world
has not had much of a clue. The beau-
ty of this book is that the author intends
it to be an immersive experience in
more ways than one. He really wants
you to dive not only into the waters,
but the people, the food, the lifestyle…
the entire Taiwan experience.”
— Lonely Planet author Tim Rock
“This is the first comprehensive guide to

scuba diving in Taiwan ever published,
and it has the feel of an instant classic.
Huge praise goes to photographer Kyo
Liu. Almost all the underwater photos Dive into Taiwan is available via
are his, and they’re invariably superb.” Amazon, Apple, Kobo and other
— Taipei Times online bookshops worldwide.
Divers at Lavender Fields, Penghu (left);
Sea apple at Xijiyu (lower left); Passing
classic Penghu topography at Xijiyu (right)
out in the staghorn, but also you get up close to a similar ridge, Penghu dive operators include
clouds of baby two-tone but this time above the surface and Gooday Dive in Magong gooday-
dartfish, lemon coral gobies, even more impressive. dive.com and Island 77 (facebook.
schools of sixbar wrasse, Underwater, restricted visibility com/groups/1163605790420843/).
pearl-scaled angelfish, oran- prevents you from seeing the scale
getail filefish and wire-net of the ridge. Above water, the mul- Simon Pridmore is the author of
filefish. It is a small-fish fan- tisided columns are stacked closely the international bestsellers Scuba
cier’s dream. together like soldiers at attention Fundamental: Start Diving the Right
and the parade seems to go on Way, Scuba Confidential: An Insider’s
Xijiyu Basalt Ridge forever. It is as if the entire island is Guide to Becoming a Better Diver,
The underwater ridge of one huge conglomeration of basalt Scuba Exceptional: Become the
basalt columns at Xijiyu is pillars. Some are tilted at an angle, Best Diver You Can Be, and Scuba
the star attraction of this while others have collapsed or been Professional: Insights into Sport Diver
particular dive. There are washed away, leaving gaps. Where Training & Operations, which are
with green cabbage coral, but this site sea apples and nudibranchs on the the cliff line finally ends, a meadow now available in a compendium. He
is much more than just an Instagram ridge wall, along with small schools of slopes down to a rocky beach and is also the co-author of the Diving
moment. The shallow reef system here reef fish and the occasional grouper, ruined, abandoned buildings are evi- & Snorkeling Guide to Bali and the Taiwan, Scuba Physiological: Think
is in excellent shape, despite the many but the geology is more interesting dence that people once lived on this Diving & Snorkeling Guide to Raja You Know All About Scuba Medicine?
visitors. It is home to a whole host than the biology, especially when, island at the end of the world. Today, Ampat & Northeast Indonesia. His Think Again! and the Dining with
of smaller fish and not just the usual after the dive, the boat sails around Xijiyu is uninhabited, and landing is recent published books include The Divers series of cookbooks. For more
anthias and damsels that like to hang to the other side of the island and not permitted.  Diver Who Fell From The Sky, Dive into information, see: SimonPridmore.com.
Northeast Wrecks Part III: Artificial Reefs Off New York & New Jersey
Text and photos by Larry Cohen and Olga Torrey
LARRY COHEN
Northeast
LARRY COHEN
LARRY COHEN
LARRY COHEN
MIKE THOMAS / FLICKR / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

The Venturo Tug is covered with marine growth (top
left); Bollards on the Venturo Tug, named in honor
of Capt. Greg A. Venturo (top center); Both new
and experienced divers can enjoy the Venturo Tug
(above); Turecamo tug of similar make as the Venturo
Tug (right); Diver Olga Torrey exits the Venturo Tug sitting
upright at 80ft (left); Venturo Tug’s engine (far left); The
Algol is home to various marine life (previous page).
LARRY COHEN LARRY COHEN
In Part One and Part Two of this series, we The National Oceanic and Atmospheric would not cause any environmental damage.
discussed US Northeast wrecks that sank Administration (NOAA) defines an artificial reef In this article, we are going to talk about two
because of collisions and war. There as any man-made structure that may mimic ships that are now artificial reefs.
some of the characteristics of a natural reef.1
are also many structures that have pur- Everything from tires, concrete reef balls, tanks, Venturo Tug
posely been sunk as artificial reefs off the subway cars and barges to ships has been sunk George S. Lawley and Sons of Neponset, the DPC-14. The vessel was used as an ST-class
New York and New Jersey coasts. Larry as artificial reefs to attract marine life to a bar- Massachusetts, built what is now called the tugboat. In the late 1940s, the boat was trans-
Cohen and Olga Torrey have the story. ren area. They have been cleaned, so they Venturo Tug for the United States Army in 1943. ferred to the Wartime Shipping Authority and
This 86ft-long, 146-gross-ton tug was named renamed the WSA-1. Finally, it was sold to the
1
OCEANSERVICE.NOAA.GOV
Northeast
LARRY COHEN
LARRY COHEN
The propeller is still attached to the haul (above); The tug’s interior is easy to explore
since there are cutouts on both sides (left)
Girt Artificial Reef in 1996. The boat sits few years ago. The propeller can still be
upright in 80ft of water, but you can observed under the stern. The wreck’s
LARRY COHEN
reach the main deck at 65ft. This dive interior is easy to explore since large cut-
Turecamo Coastal and Harbor Towing site was renamed the GA Venturo Tug in outs on both sides were made before
Corporation. Its name was changed honor of Captain Greg A. Venturo, who the ship was sunk. The Venturo Tug is
to Matt Turecamo. All the tugs owned lost his life while scuba diving. covered with marine growth and is now
by Turecamo Coastal and Harbor The Venturo Tug is an excellent dive home to an assortment of marine life.
Towing Corporation had a wood-grain for both new and experienced div-
paint job.2 ers. It is a short boat ride from the Point USS Algol AKA-54
The tug was sunk inshore close to Pleasant area marinas, and visibility is The Moore Dry Dock Co. in Oakland,
Point Pleasant, New Jersey, on the Sea usually superb. The boat is intact, but the CA, built the USS Algol AKA-54 in 1943. LARRY COHEN
2
NJSCUBA.NET pilothouse was blown into the sand a This 459ft by 63ft Navy transport ship, Visibility is usually excellent, which is unusual for an inshore wreck (above);
Divers can reach the main deck at 65ft (top right).
Northeast
OLGA TORREY
Mussels cover the superstruc-

ture of the Algol (left); The
author exploring the Algol's
superstructure (above); The
Algol was sunk as an artificial
reef on 22 November 1991
(right); US Navy attack cargo
ship USS Algol (AKA-54) in 1944
(bottom left)
LARRY COHEN
which displaces 13,910 tons, is the larg- assigned to the US Navy’s West Coast oper-
US NAVY / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / PUBLIC DOMAIN
est vessel in the New Jersey Artificial Reef ations, conducting routine assignments and
Program. It was named after a star in the training. In January 1962, it was assigned
constellation Perseus, also known as the to the Atlantic Fleet. In the fall of 1962, the
Demon Star.3 Algol was a support ship for the quaran-
The Algol is a historic ship, which served tine of Cuba imposed by President John F.
from World War II to the Cuban Missile Kennedy during the Cuban missile crisis.
Crisis. During World War II, the vessel trans- In 1964, the attack cargo ship was sent to
ported troops and served as a tender for the Mediterranean Sea. The vessel spent its
the landing craft in the Battle of Okinawa. remaining service operating along the east-
During the Korean War, the ship helped ern United States and West Indies. It was
to evacuate UN troops from Chinnampo, decommissioned in July 1970. In its time as
North Korea, in December 1950. a US naval ship, the ship earned two battle
After the Korean War, the ship was stars during World War II and five during the
3
NJSCUBA.NET Korean War conflict.
LARRY COHEN
Northeast
LARRY COHEN
The Algol had an honorable military career before being sunk as an arti-
ficial reef (left); Rebreather diver on the Algol (above); Touring the Algol
is like visiting a large building decorated with marine life (right).
LARRY COHEN
The Algol remained in mothballs in ings allow divers to pen-
the James River until 11 June 1991, etrate the wreck easily.4 structure in only 70ft of water, while is worth the effort. Unfortunately, in
when it was towed to Wilmington, The Algol was sunk on 22 November an advanced diver can penetrate recent years, the number of dive
North Carolina. At this location, it was 1991. It is located about 12 miles off the wreck in 140ft of water. Swimming boats has dwindled; nonetheless,
prepared by Eagle Island Marine to Point Pleasant, New Jersey, in 145ft around the Algol is like visiting a large there are still dive operations that will
be sunk as a New Jersey artificial reef. of water. The wreck starts at 70ft, and building. The Algol is home to various transport you to this fantastic under-
Preparing a ship to be sunk is not the main deck is in 110ft of water. marine life, including giant lobsters, as water world.  SOURCES: OCEANSERVICE.
an easy task. The Algol’s towers and The deck was in 90ft of water when well as blackfish, for divers who want to NOAA.GOV, NJSCUBA.NET
funnel had to be removed to pre- the ship was first sunk. Winter storms bring some home for dinner. Because
vent them from being a navigational moved the wreck and pushed it of this wreck’s size and features, this is Larry Cohen and Olga Torrey are well-
hazard. All pollutants and floatable deeper into the sand. an excellent ship for photography. traveled and published underwater
materials were removed as well. Also, The Algol is intact, upright and gigan- photographers based in New York
machinery, portholes and all valu- tic. Besides the Andrea Doria, it is the Conclusion City, USA. They offer underwater pho-
able metals were taken off the vessel largest wreck in the region. To see the Consider bringing along your drysuit tography courses and presentations to
and sold to help pay for the project. whole wreck would take multiple dives. when planning a trip to New York dive shops, clubs and events. For more
OLGA TORREY
All windows, doors and cargo hold New divers can explore the super- City from April to November. Visiting information, visit: liquidimagesuw.com
hatches were removed. These open- 4
NJSCUBA.NET
the historic wreck sites underwater and fitimage.nyc.
Contributors' Picks
Bold &
Beautiful Critters from Around the World
Text and photos by John
A. Ares, Sheryl Checkman,
Larry Cohen, Anita George-
Ares, Matthew Meier, Brandi
Mueller, Gary Rose, Michael
Rothschild and Olga Torrey
Many intriguing creatures

underwater have defensive
mechanisms—they may sting,
have venom, sharp spines, warn-
ing colors, or bite. We asked our
contributors what their favorite
underwater photos of these
bold and beautiful critters
were, and they came back
with a variety of subjects
including brightly colored
nudibranchs, cnidarians
that sting, scorpion-
fish with sharp spines,
sharks and even
crocodiles sporting
sharp teeth. With a
healthy respect for
nature, X-Ray Mag con-
tributors share their favorite
images from the tropical
waters of Fiji, Micronesia,
Philippines, Indonesia,
Malaysia, Mozambique,
Egypt, Cuba, Mexico and
Honduras to the temperate
waters of the US East Coast.
MATTHEW MEIER
Bold & Beautiful
Okinawan Halgerda
nudibranch moving
across the sandy
bottom, Lembeh
Strait, Indonesia
(right). Gear: Nikon
D810 camera, Nikon
105mm macro lens,
Subal housing, two
Sea&Sea YS-250
strobes with snoots.
Exposure: ISO 200,
f/25, 1/125s
Emperor shrimp riding on the back of a many-lobed Ceratosoma nudibranch,

Lembeh Strait, Indonesia (top right). Gear: Nikon D810 camera, Nikon 105mm
macro lens, Subal housing, two Sea&Sea YS-250 strobes with snoots. Exposure:
ISO 200, f/22, 1/125s; Chromodoris kuniei nudibranch on coral reef, Taveuni, Fiji
(right). Gear: Nikon D3 camera, Nikon 105mm macro lens, Subal housing, two
Sea&Sea YS-250 strobes. Exposure: ISO 200, f/25, 1/125s
Bright Nudibranchs some feeding on sponges,

others feed on hydroids
Text and photos by Matthew Meier or bryozoans, some eat
other sea slugs, and in
Nudibranchs were an easy choice rare instances, they can-
for this contributors’ picks feature on nibalize their own species.
defense mechanisms. With over 3,000 Nudibranchs that feed on
species, these soft-bodied marine gas- hydroids can also store and
tropods use a seemingly infinite combi- use the nematocyst sting-
nation of colors and patterns to warn ing cells for protection.
off prey or blend into their environ- Others use the chemical defenses of ally laying eggs in a ribbon-like spi-
ment. The name “nudibranch” trans- the sponges they consume to render ral. Once hatched, the identical but
lates to “naked gills,” and these ani- themselves distasteful. tiny newborns will have a lifespan
mals literally breathe through bronchial In an effort to increase their chanc- of a few weeks to a year, depend-
plumes on their backs. They are ben- es to procreate, all nudibranchs are ing on the species. The largest con-
Risbecia tryoni nudibranch moving over a pink sponge, Puerto Galera, Philippines thic creatures, found crawling on the hermaphroditic and have reproduc- centration of nudibranchs is found in
(above). Gear: Nikon D810 camera, Nikon 105mm macro lens, Subal housing, sea floor the world over, existing nearly tive organs of both sexes on the right warm, tropical shallow reefs, such as
two Sea&Sea YS-250 strobes with snoots. Exposure: ISO 200, f/18, 1/250s; entirely in saltwater from the intertidal side of their bodies. When they meet the examples shown here from the
Chromodoris sp. nudibranch on top of coral rubble on the sea floor, Anilao, zone to depths beyond 2,300ft (700m). another of their species, nudibranchs Philippines, Fiji and Indonesia. Visit:
Philippines (previous page). Gear: Nikon D3 camera, Nikon 105mm macro lens, All nudibranchs are carnivorous, with fertilize each other, before eventu- MatthewMeierphoto.com
Subal housing, two Sea&Sea YS-250 strobes. Exposure: ISO 200, f/25, 1/125s
Bold & Beautiful
Photo 1. Sea krait portrait, Fiji (left). Gear: Nikonos V camera, 35mm f/2.5 lens with 1:2 extension tube, Ikelite
DS-125 strobe. Exposure: ISO 100, f/11, 1/60s; Photo 2. Turtle-headed sea snake in Dumaguete, Philippines(top
left). Gear: Canon EOS Rebel T1i camera, Canon 100mm f/2.8 USM macro lens, Ikelite housing, twin Ikelite
DS-161 strobes. Exposure: ISO 400, f/16, 1/160s; Photo 3. Diver and sea krait in Puerto Galera, Philippines (above).
Gear: Canon 10D camera, Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM lens at 10mm, Ikelite housing, twin Ikelite DS-161
strobes. Exposure: ISO 400, f/16, 1/100s
Sea Snakes Sea kraits are not true sea black spots. This animal was shot
snakes as they are semiaquatic. in Dumaguete, Philippines. A
Text and photos by John Ares They need to come to land to true sea snake, the young hatch
digest their prey and to lay eggs. inside the female and are deliv-
The good news is that sea snakes The portrait of a sea krait in Photo ered underwater.
and sea kraits, while both venom- 1 was shot from inches away Sea kraits can be very curious,
ous, are not aggressive toward div- in Fiji. Luck had it that this indi- as illustrated by this specimen
ers. As with any sea creature, it is vidual was not at all intimidated in Photo 3 swimming alongside
prudent not to touch or harass sea by my presence. This image was the diver and looking into the
snakes and sea kraits. While these scanned from a slide. camera dome in Puerto Galera,
creatures can be bold, “beauty” Superficially, the snake in Philippines. No doubt it was more
is in the eye of the beholder. I think Photo 2 resembles a sea krait, fascinated by its reflection than
they are gorgeous. but the lighter bands contain by the diver. Visit: JohnAres.com
Bold & Beautiful
Scorpianfish at Sponges Wall in Roatan,

Honduras (left). Gear: Olympus OMD EM5
Mark II camera, Olympus M.60mm f/2.8
lens at 60mm, Olympus PT-EP13 housing,
Sea&Sea YS D-1 strobes. Exposure: ISO
200, f/11, 1/125s
Rhinopias at Pasir Hitam (Black Sand) in

Alor, Indonesia (below). Gear: Olympus
OMD EM5 Mark II camera, Olympus
M.60mm f/2.8 lens at 60mm, Olympus
PT-EP13 housing, Sea&Sea YS D-1 strobe.
Exposure: ISO 200, f/5.6, 1/125s
Rhinopias at Pasir Hitam (Black

Sand) in Alor, Indonesia (left).
Gear: Olympus OMD EM5 Mark
II camera, Olympus M.60mm
f/2.8 lens at 60mm, Olympus
PT-EP13 housing, Sea&Sea YS
D-1 strobe. Exposure: ISO 200,
f/5.6, 1/125s
Scorpionfishes guide did not point them

out, I would never have
Text and photos seen them! Rhinopias, like
by Sheryl Checkman all scorpionfish, are venom-
ous, using their sharp spines,
It is a dangerous world under coated with a venomous
the sea for many of its inhabit- mucus to defend them-
ants. Evolution has created ways selves from predators.
for many of them to beat the I have also encountered
odds through various defense this species in the Atlantic as
mechanisms. Scorpionfishes well. In Roatan, at Sponges
(Scorpaenidae) is one such family Wall, this scorpionfish was
of fishes. They are mainly found in very well camouflaged
the Indo-Pacific, but some species against the sand, the only
are also found in the Atlantic. thing giving it away was its
Rhinopias are in this family and blue eyes staring up at me.
are found in the Indian and Pacific Another fish in the
oceans. In Alor, Indonesia, on a Scorpaenidae family is the
dive at Pasir Hitam (Black Sand), I lionfish. My first encounter
encountered a variety of these fish with lionfish was in the Caribbean, needs to be controlled. However, ful orange and white stripes and
Lionfish at Manta Bay, Mozambique. Gear: Olympus in all different colors and patterns, where they do not belong and, in Mozambique, at the Manta Bay venom-coated fins fanned out
OMD EM5 Mark II camera, Olympus M.9-18mm f/4.0- camouflaging themselves to blend having no natural predators, have dive site, I photographed one in its like a lion’s mane. Visit: Instagram.
5.6 lens at 10mm, Olympus PT-EP13 housing, Sea&Sea into their surroundings. If our dive become an invasive species that native environment, with its color- com/sherylcheckman
YS D-1 strobe. Exposure: ISO 200, f/8, 1/160s
Lionfish feeding at night in Sharm El-Sheikh, Egypt (left). Gear: Olympus
E-520 camera, Olympus 50mm f/2 Zuiko Digital macro lens, Olympus
housing, Sea&Sea YS-01 strobes. Exposure: ISO 200, f/9, 1/200s; Since
the mid-2000s, lionfish have invaded the Caribbean, including Cuba
(above). Gear: Olympus OM-D E-M1 camera, Olympus 60mm macro,
Aquatica housing, Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes. Exposure: ISO 400, f/11,
1/100s; Lionfish are now in North Carolina (top right). Gear: Olympus
OM-D E-M1 camera, Olympus 9-18mm fisheye, Aquatica housing,
Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes. Exposure: ISO 200, f/10, 1/250s
Lionfish enters the target’s body. Lionfish Since the mid-2000s, lionfish feeding them to the shark
are not aggressive to divers, so started being seen in signifi- population, hoping the sharks
Text and photos by Larry Cohen stings are usually accidental.1 cant numbers in the southern will develop a taste for lionfish.
In the past, underwater pho- and eastern Atlantic region. It I was still happy to capture
Lionfish are the perfect example tographers had to travel to the is believed they were released an image of a lionfish under a
of bold and beautiful marine life. Indo-Pacific region to see these or escaped from marine ledge when diving in Cuba.
Their appearance is stunning, but decorative fish. When diving aquariums. Unfortunately, they In the United States, lionfish
they are poisonous. Lionfish have on the house reef at Pom Pom are an invasive species in this have been spotted as far north
fan-like fins that look like feathers. Island Resort in Malaysia, I was part of the world.2 For this rea- as Rhode Island. Many have
However, hidden within this beau- excited to photograph a lionfish. son, dive resorts encourage made the shipwrecks off North
ty are spines that can release On a night dive in Sharm spearfishing lionfish. Carolina their home. Of course,
venom. While they are preda- El-Sheikh in Egypt, my dive light Spearfishing is prohibited this is a problem for the environ-
tory by nature, they also use their attracted a swarm of tiny fish. in the Garden of the Queen ment, but photographing a lion-
poison for protection. When the The small fish was the perfect marine park in Cuba. However, fish on the wreck of the Papoose
spine penetrates the skin of the opportunity for a lionfish to dive guides have been allowed still makes an intriguing image.
lionfish’s victim, a neuromuscu- have a late-night snack. to hunt lionfish and have been Visit: liquidimagesuw.com Lionfish photographed at Pom Pom Island, Malaysia house reef. Gear:
lar toxin similar to cobra venom Olympus OM-D E-M1 camera, Olympus 60mm macro, Aquatica hous-
1
HEALTHLINE.COM 2
OCEANSERVICE.NOAA.GOV
ing, Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes. Exposure: ISO 200, f/8, 1/125s
ANITA GEORGE-ARES
ANITA GEORGE-ARES
Photo 1. Great white shark, Guadalupe Island, Mexico (above). Gear:

Canon EOS Digital Rebel XTi camera, Canon EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
ANITA GEORGE-ARES
ANITA GEORGE-ARES
lens, Ikelite housing. Exposure: Available light, ISO 400, f/8, 1/80s
Photo 2. Two great white sharks, Guadalupe Island, Mexico (top right).
Gear: Canon EOS Digital Rebel XTi camera, Canon EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-
4.5 USM lens, Ikelite housing. Exposure: Available light, ISO 400, f/8, 1/80s
Great White, Silvertip & Bull Sharks that was suspend-

ed in the water
Text and photos by Anita George-Ares column. A bull shark
swam near the rub-
Cage diving with great white sharks is a ble wall (Photo 3).
not-to-be-missed encounter off Guadalupe The silvertips
Island, Mexico. Photo 1 conveys the sleek sometimes sneaked
beauty and purposeful movement of a up behind us.
great white shark and her escorts. Photo My dive guide
2 captures two great white sharks on their explained that the
approach to the cage. silvertip sharks could
I had another exciting shark encoun- not compete with
ter at the Bistro dive site in Fiji’s Shark Reef the numerous bull sharks so the silvertips Images were converted to black Photo 3. Bull shark, Beqa Passage, Fiji (above). Gear: Canon EOS
National Marine Park. We descended to resorted to other tactics in their search for and white using Nik Silver Efex Pro 2 Rebel SL1 camera, Canon EF-S10-18 mm f4.5-5.6 IS STM, Ikelite
70ft and knelt behind a low wall made of food. Aqua-Trek’s guides maintained the and Adobe Photoshop CC 2018 soft- housing, two Ikelite DS 161 strobes. Exposure: ISO 400, f/11, 1/160s
coral rubble. Bull, sicklefin lemon, blacktip safety of the divers and used long, stainless ware. Please visit: facebook.com/profile. Photo 4. Silvertip shark, Beqa Passage, Fiji (center). Gear: Canon
reef, silvertip and tawny nurse sharks con- steel poles to push away overly inquisitive php?id=100016947967639 EOS Rebel SL1 camera, Canon EF-S10-18 mm f4.5-5.6 IS STM, Ikelite
verged upon the bait-filled, large plastic bin sharks, as seen in Photo 4. housing, two Ikelite DS 161 strobes. Exposure: ISO 400, f/11, 1/160s
Bold & Beautiful
Jorunna parva nudi-

branch, Lembeh Strait,
Indonesia (top left).
Exposure: ISO 200,
105mm, f/18, 1/200s;
Goniobranchus fidelis
nudibranch and—if
you look closely—
a skeleton shrimp
on the left rhino-
phore, Lembeh Strait, Gear for all images: Nikon D850 camera, Ikelite hous-
Indonesia (center left). ing, dual Ikelite DS161 strobes. Mating Goniobranchus sp.
Exposure: ISO 200, f/22, nudibranch, Lembeh Strait, Indonesia (above). Exposure:
1/200s; Chromodoris sp. ISO 200, f/18, 1/200s; Cuthona sp. nudibranch, Lembeh
nudibranch with extra Strait, Indonesia (top center). Exposure: ISO 200, f/32,
rhinophores, Lembeh 1/200s; Flabellina sp. exoptata nudibranch, Lembeh Strait,
Strait, Indonesia (bot- Indonesia (left). Exposure: ISO 200, f/18, 1/200s; Flabellina
tom left). Exposure: ISO sp. nudibranch, Lembeh Strait, Indonesia (center).
200, f/13, 1/200s Exposure: ISO 200, f/25, 1/200s.
Nudibranch Chemistry ing a warning sign to predators that are even more creative. They have food in their bodies and use them for eating them because they display the
they taste very, very bad. One of my adapted to be able to feed on other their own protection. toxic warning signs. They fool predators
Text and photos by Brandi Mueller favorite underwater photography toxic organisms like hydrozoas, fire cor- It gets even more exciting when into thinking they are poisonous when
subjects is nudibranchs because of als, sponges and anemones. Not only some marine slugs that are not poison- they are not.
The prettier an animal is, the more their beautiful and bright patterns are they not poisoned by the stinging ous pretend to be so by mimicking the So, the next time you think about
likely it is to be deadly. Similar to the and, as expected, many are toxic. cells in the tissues that these toxic ani- brightly colored patterns of noxious tasting a nudibranch, don’t! As with all
rainforest and jungle, oceanic organ- Some nudibranchs produce their mals use for defense, but they are able neighbors. They hope the predator things in the ocean, look and do not
isms that display bright colors are giv- own chemicals in defense, but others to store the nematocysts from their going after them will think twice about touch. Visit: brandiunderwater.com
Photo 1. Lionfish on reef (top right).
Gear: Nikon D500 camera, Nikon
Macro 85mm lens, Nauticam hous-
ing, Inon Z330 strobes. Exposure:
ISO 200, 85mm, f/8, 1/125s
Photo 3. Spiny lobster on reef

(right). Gear: Nikon D500 camera,
Nikon Macro 85mm lens at 85mm,
Nauticam housing, Inon Z330
strobes. Exposure: ISO 200,
f/11, 1/125s
Photo 4. Smiling lemon shark (far

right). Gear: Nikon D500 camera,
Tokina 10-17mm lens at 13mm,
Nauticam housing, Inon Z330
strobes. Exposure: ISO 200, f/8, 1/125s
Photo 2. Scorpionfish on wreck.
Gear: Nikon D500 camera, Tokina
10-17mm lens at 17mm, Nauticam
housing, Inon Z330 strobes.
Exposure: ISO 200, f/11, 1/100s
Look, But Do Not Touch with you when the advice of

“Do Not Touch” is for our safety.
Text & photos by Gary Rose, MD There are numerous sea crea-
tures that have spines, projec-
It all begins in our childhood. tions, stingers and teeth that
We are told, so many times, serve them well as survival tools.
that we can look but we can- The lionfish in Photo 1 is a
not touch. Most of the time, very beautiful creature that has
it was an adult who would spread throughout most of the
admonish us. Later in life, when Western Atlantic as an invasive
we could read, there were species. They are very popular death. Do not let its beauty lure fish. Divers get in
signs and placards. Of course, with photographers, because of you in too close. trouble when they
this warning usually increased their exotic beauty and they do The cousin to the lionfish is inadvertently settle on them infected. Many a diver, trying It is common to find oneself, liter-
our desire to touch, and we hold very still while suspended the scorpionfish (Photo 2). They during dives on shipwrecks and to be macho by not wearing ally, in a “sharknado.” Although
did. Most of the time, this warn- in the water column or on the are both in the same family, reefs, particularly when they are gloves during handling, have lemon sharks like to play, cavort,
ing was to protect the object reef. I chose this photograph although their behavior is quite holding on in a strong current. found themselves with marine bump and nuzzle, all divers still
from damage by our human because it clearly demonstrates different. Unlike the lionfish, the Spiny lobsters have lots of microorganism infections. need to pay attention to the
fingers and hands. the location and severity of the scorpionfish always blends into pointy barbs and spines (Photo One of my favorite photo sub- many rows of long, triangular,
Throughout our scuba instruc- venomous spines. Each lionfish its surroundings—reef, wreck, 3). Fortunately, they are not jects is the lemon shark (Photo 4). pointy, sharp teeth.
tion, and in every pre-dive has 18 spines—13 dorsal, two boulders—and, to the casual venomous. Whenever handling I am very lucky to have them in At my Update in Diving
briefing, we are told, “Do Not pelvic, and three anal. Each eye, is invisible. It is covered a spiny lobster, it is imperative my backyard in Jupiter, Florida, Medicine Courses, I go into
Touch.” Most of the time, this is coated with venom that is with multiple short venomous to wear gloves, or you will suf- all year long. During their yearly much more detail, including
is to protect the fragile sea life toxic to many species of fish. For spines. However, the venom fer many small punctures and aggregation, which occurs management of the above-
and delicate marine environ- humans, it is extremely painful is stronger, more painful and lacerations, with each hav- from January to February, they mentioned injuries. Please visit:
ment. I am now going to share and, in rare cases, can lead to more toxic than that of a lion- ing the potential of becoming become particularly frolicsome. garyrosephotos.com
Bold & Beautiful
Photo 1. Pink Anemonefish over an anemone,

wreck of the Fujikawa Maru, Truk Lagoon
(above). Gear: Canon EOS 7D Mark II, Tamron
60mm macro lens, Nauticam housing, dual Inon
Z-240 strobes. Exposure: ISO 200, f/11, 1/250s;
Photo 2. Lionfish over the wreck of the Yamagiri
Maru, Truk Lagoon (left). Gear: Canon EOS 7D
Mark II, Tokina 10-17mm fisheye lens (at 11 mm),
Nauticam housing, dual Inon Z-240 strobes.
Exposure: ISO 500, f/22, 1/250s
Bold and Beautiful
Text and photos by Michael Rothschild, MD
To paraphrase George Washington, the hemisphere. These are great photographic

best defense is a good offense. While many subjects—dramatically beautiful and calm
marine creatures protect themselves with enough to pose as they drift by.
camouflage or armor, others take an active In Photo 3, we see the long tentacles
stance, employing fangs and venom not as of the mauve stinger. Fortunately, this one
predators, but as reluctant prey. was in an area where divers tend to cover
Stinging anemones use nematocysts for up thoroughly, so injuries are rare.
defense and offense, but as in most soci- Finally, we have the most dangerous Photo 4. Diver on the wreck of the Tolten, New
eties, some individuals have special privi- animal in the sea in Photo 4. His rebreather Jersey, USA (above). Gear: Canon EOS 7D Mark II,
leges. The anemonefish in Photo 1 enjoys allows him to sneak up on prey in silence, Nauticam housing, Tokina 10-17mm fisheye lens (at
immunity to this poison, keeping his friend making quick work of the slowest flatfish of 10 mm), dual Inon Z-330 strobe. Exposure: ISO 800,
clean of parasites in return. the New Jersey shore. In this shot, however, f/11, 1/40s; Photo 3. Mauve stinger jellyfish over the
Photo 2 shows a lionfish in the South he is using his weapon defensively, warding wreck of the Tolten, New Jersey, USA (bottom left).
Pacific where it is supposed to be, and off a photographer who came too close Gear: Canon EOS 7D Mark II, Nauticam housing,
Tokina 10-17mm fisheye lens (at 17mm), dual Inon
not as an invasive species in the western for comfort. Visit: dive.rothschilddesign.com
Z-330 strobes. Exposure: ISO 200, f/8, 1/200s
Bold & Beautiful
American Crocodiles
Text and Photos by Olga Torrey
One of the most exciting experiences on

a dive trip to the Gardens of the Queen
in Cuba was being in one meter of water
with two American crocodiles. We took
one of the small skiffs from our liveaboard Fernandez also had a long stick with a
ship into the mangroves. The crew took GoPro attached.
hunks of chicken and hung them in the American crocodiles are not as ag-
water. Within a few minutes, two Ameri- gressive as other species of crocodiles,
can crocodiles showed up for a meal. but they are opportunistic. I asked my
As they enjoyed the meal, I looked at buddy to put down his camera so I could
my dive buddy Larry Cohen and said: “Is get a photo of him with the crocodile.
getting in the water a good idea?” He One of the reptiles immediately took the
shrugged his shoulders and said, “Well, opportunity and got up close and per-
you only live once!” sonal with Larry; luckily, Noel pushed the
We got into our wetsuits, grabbed our animal away with his stick.
American crocodile with impressive teeth and powerful cameras, and entered the water with our We spent four hours in the water with
jaw, Cuba. Exposure: ISO 100, f/5.0, 1/320s (above); This guide. We planned to let the crocodiles these bold and beautiful creatures. Un-
American crocodile was happy to see me. Exposure: come to us, and we would capture the fortunately, towards the end, the battery era in an Ikelite housing. I continued to This American
ISO 100, f/5, 1/320s (top left); American crocodile, images when they moved in close. Hav- on my camera lost power. So, I handed capture video, but this small housing did crocodile was
showing off its impressive defensive weapons. Exposure: ing a housing with dual strobes could my primary camera to the captain and not offer any protection. So, I proceeded curious about me.
ISO 100, f/5, 1/320s (top right). Gear for all images: be used to push the crocodiles away if asked him to give me my small Canon with caution, captured my images, and Exposure: ISO 100,
Olympus XZ-1 camera, wide-angle conversion lens, f/5, 1/320s
they got too close. Our guide Noel Lopez PowerShot ELPH point-and-shoot cam- still had all my limbs. Visit: fitimage.nyc
Olympus PT-050 housing, dual Sea&Sea YS-01 strobes.
POINT & CLICK THE FACTS AND VIEWPOINTS IN THIS SECTION ARE NOT NECESSARILY THE VIEWS OF X-RAY MAG. EQUIPMENT PRESENTED IN THIS SECTION
HAVE NOT BEEN TESTED BY X-RAY MAG STAFF, NOR ARE THE ITEMS WARRANTEED. INFORMATION PROVIDED IS CONDENSED FROM MANU-
ON BOLD LINKS
Equipment
FACTURERS’ DESCRIPTIONS. TEXTS ARE USUALLY EDITED FOR LENGTH, CLARITY AND STYLE. LINKS ARE ACTIVE AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION.
DISCLAIMER: SPONSORS OF THE MAGAZINE GET SOME PREFERENTIAL MENTION.
DGX Gears BC Integrated

Backup Regulator
This breathable inflator, which combines an alternate air
source with a power-inflator, replaces the standard pow-
er-inflator found on your wing or BCD. This combina-
tion not only makes it quicker and easier
to find your backup regulator in a pinch
Edited by but it also does away with a hose and
Peter Symes helps with streamlining. The DGX Gears
BC Integrated Backup Regulator is
attached to the wing or BCD corru-
gated inflator hose, and is fed by the
ProTek 1000 Series first stage in the same manner as any
Smartwatches may be all the rage these regulator. It can be assembled on nearly any
days, but there is just something about a BC. “The DGX Gears BCI is a proven device that
classic dive watch. Made with a carbon has been relied upon for years by sport divers the
composite case, the Series 1000 timepiece world over. The raw performance is suitable for use in
from ProTek is everything but old tech. sport depths, but we feel this device is not suitable for extended range
ProTek is a new brand of tritium tactical depths,” the manufacturer states. Divegearexpress.com
watches from the former owner and
founder of Luminox, Barry Cohen.
The Carbon Composite Dive Series Avelo
uses a carbon composite case with It was like wearing a mini-submarine, I thought
a tight 60-click, unidirectional, rotating when I tried on the Avelo kit at the recent Diving
bezel with a stainless-steel screw-case Talks event. What looks like just a slightly oversized
back and screw crown that confers 300m tank with a fancy little backplate and two small
of water resistance, and is fitted with sap- canisters along the flanks, which resemble bat-
phire crystals with anti-reflective coatings, tery packs, is in fact also a buoyancy device.
and dependable Japanese quartz move- The tank is buoyant and can become lighter
ments with 10-year batteries, the manufac- or heavier by using water from its environ-
turer writes. Protekwatch.com ment. It works by taking in and expelling water,
just like a submarine. When a diver is ready to
dive, he or she presses a button and water is
Earplugs for divers pumped into the Hydrotank—that is what they
If you do not fancy getting water in your ears but would Scubapro Seawing Supernova call it—and around an inner bladder, which
like to be able to hear what is going on around you, Winner of the prestigious, internationally recog- holds the air (or some breathing mix). Once
SurfEars might have the solution for you. nised Red Dot Award for product design, the the diver is neutrally buoyant, the pump is
The earplugs, which are designed for new Seawing Supernova is a step up from the stopped, and the diver can swim about,
use by divers, surfers, kayakers and Seawing Nova in performance, construction, fit retaining that same buoyancy until enough
other water sports practitioners, and versatility, Scubapro writes. The flexible central gas has been consumed to make the diver a
are available in several sizes and panel fine-tunes the angle of attack according to little buoyant. The pump can then be turned on
consist of several different com- the strength of the kick by counterpivoting, provid- to pump again for 20 to 30 seconds. The water in
ponents that can be combined ing a milder angle of attack for comfort when kick- the Hydrotank replaces the mass of the gas con-
in different ways so that each ing gently, a more aggressive angle of attack when sumed, and the diver can experience another 20
user can adapt the earplugs to kicking at full strength, and anything in-between. to 25 minutes with neutral buoyancy. At the end of
his or her personal needs. The ear- The two-piece design, with blade and foot pocket the dive, a purge valve is opened to drain, and all
plugs are also designed so that the moulded separately, makes transport easy; and with the water from the Hydrotank becomes buoyant
outer ear equalises pressure during the optional full-foot pocket, the fin can be modified to and lightweight, making the climb back onboard
diving. Surfears.com handle any warm-water dive scenario. Scubapro.com or ashore easy. Diveavelo.com
equipment
There are many ways you can edition, which includes all the latest
review a dive computer, but updates. One can also study and get
wearing it on your arm for one familiarised with the computer before
deciding whether to purchase it.
or two dives does not consti- The first thing that struck me was
tute a proper test—at least, not how large it was and how strong and
a meaningful one. The follow- solid it felt. The computer had four
ing review is therefore based buttons below the display, which, at
on the use of the unit over a six- first glance, appeared a bit small;
however, in practice, I found that the
month period, during which time, buttons were quite easy to operate,
around 65 dives were conducted as I navigated through all the menus,
Review: Ratio iX3M 2 Dive Computer

in different locations and water even while wearing thick dry gloves.
conditions. Lelle Malmström puts Once I got the computer out of
the Ratio’s new dive computer the box, which was made from recy-
cled cardboard, I switched it on and
iX3M 2 through its paces. began exploring all the menus. The
structure and operation were quick to the computer off after a dive. 2 shows how many minutes I have at The compass
Text and photos by learn, as it was clearly The computer started automatically the current depth, and at the safe- I just love its compass! Why don’t all
Lelle Malmström stated in the display when I entered the water, and the ty/deco stop, the computer shows dive computers have a compass like
what each button display was very easy to read, even in with clear numbers what depth I this? Choose the compass heading,
When the parcel did when you were bright sunlight. During the dive, time, should stay at, as well as the time press a button and the compass head-
with the computer in a sub-menu. depth, time to surface, nitrox mixture left until the next stop. If I want to ing is locked. If you swim in the correct
arrived in the mail, and pO2 were displayed in very clear see the entire decompression table, direction, you will see two arrows point-
I was initially sur- Diving numbers. That was all the information it can be accessed with a few but- ing straight ahead on the display. If you
prised not to find The wide elastic one really needed during the dive. ton presses. get off course, an arrow will point to
any instruction man- straps, which were However, if needed, a large amount
ual. In the box, there also equipped with of additional information could be
was just the com- quick-release buckles, accessed by scrolling through the
puter and a charging made it easy to put menus, using the buttons.
cable. However, on the the dive computer on At first, I did not like the menus the
box, it showed how the the arm even when computer brought up underwater. I felt
manual could be down- wearing a drysuit. there was too much information and
loaded from Ratio’s Alternatively, bungee too many settings that I did not need
website, which I did. cords could be used during the dive. But after 10 to 15 dives,
Saving paper not only instead of straps, if it grew on me. I came to grips with it
benefits both the envi- so preferred. Since I and no longer had to look at the com-
ronment and me, but have drysuit rings on puter while pressing the buttons.
the online download my suit, I prefer the Now, I think the menus are logi-
also ensures that I can straps, as they made cally structured and easy to navi-
always access the latest Ratio iX3M 2 dive it much easier to take gate. In a simple way, the Ratio iX3M
computer in the box The compass on the Ratio iX3M 2 dive computer shows direction on and off course.
equipment Ratio iX3M 2
Ratio iX3M 2’s

Logbook display
(left and centre),
and Gas Blender
display (far left)
the right or left, indicating the direction transferred to a desktop computer or off that you are a diver. However, its to a desktop or laptop computer as
to take to get back on the right course. laptop. Ratio uses a logging program large and clear display makes the you download the dives to the log
It could not be simpler. called Subsurface (subsurface- information easy to read, even if you programme. Most USB chargers can
divelog.org). The software is open are older and feel that the numbers also be used, but I found that my iPad
Many new functions source and free to download and on your little watch computer are charger charged the iX3M 2 the fastest.
The Ratio iX3M 2 comes with many use. The programme supports most getting hard to read. Are there any features I feel are miss-
features that you probably did not computers on the market, so you do The manufacturer states that a fully ing? Not really. But I would like to sug-
know you wanted or needed. It can not need to have your logs in several charged battery lasts approximately 20 gest perhaps adding some games,
connect to up to ten wireless trans- different programmes when you dive hours. In any case, I never worried which can keep me entertained during
mitters to obtain tank pressure, and have upgraded to an iX3M 2, and about the battery not having enough long decompression stops. Hopefully,
if you dive sidemount, the computer it is fine to import entire backup files juice, as the dive computer automati- the manufacturer will consider includ-
will automatically switch to display into the programme. cally charges when it is connected ing one in a future update. 
information about the tank from
which you are breathing. Updating the software FACT FILE
Another function, which I find Updating iX3M 2 is quite easy.
superb, is a simple gas blender pro- Download the ToolBox programme Colour, IPS, 2.8-inch, 320x240 pixel, 144 dpi, 100%
gramme, which lets you see what kind from Ratio’s website, start the pro- Display
matrix
of mix you end up with in the tank gramme, press “Upgrade,” wait a
Wireless Air Integration Compatible with Ratio Colour Coded Wireless
if, for example, you top it up with air while… and hey, presto! It sounds sim-
(Transmitter, Sender) Transmitter
after a dive. Once you know the mix ple enough, but I initially had a bit of
by using the gas blender programme, trouble using it with my Mac comput- Multi Transmitter Up to 10 wireless transmitters
it is easy to use the built-in deco table er. However, instructions are given on Mix 10 mix (+ 3 diluents) (O2: 05% - 99% / He: 0% - 95%)
to provide times for the next dive. the same website, and after following Deco model Buhlmann ZHL-12 + Buhlmann ZHL-16 B + Buhlmann
Furthermore, with an accessory that them, I soon had the programme up (Algorithm) ZHL-16 C + VPM-B
connects to the computer via cable, and running. User settable Gradient Factors (GFL/GFH) for
the diver can analyse which nitrox Algorithm adjustment
Buhlmann and user-settable Bubble Radius for VPM
mixture is in the tank; the measure- Summary
ment is then simply saved to the com- Do you need such an advanced dive Water type Salt water / fresh water / EN13319
puter with the push of a button. Visit computer? That is not a simple or easy Deep Stop Standard method + Pyle method
Ratio’s website (ratio-computers.com) question to answer. But my response Alerts Vibration + acoustic + visual
for loads of videos on many of the would be YES! The iX3M 2 not only has Dive Planner No Deco Limit + Full Deco Planner
functions and explanations of how to all the features that I currently need,
Compass 3D Compass, 1° resolution, +/- 1° accuracy
use the iX3M 2. but I will never “outgrow” this comput-
er either. The iX3M 2 suits all divers from Battery USB rechargeable Li-ion (~20 hours of diving)
The dive log beginners to technical divers. Weight 220gr / 7.7oz
The logged dives are easily reviewed Yes, it is a big computer, and not Logbook ~160 hours of scuba (sampling 10 seconds)
on the computer’s large display and one you would wear at a bar to show Max Depth 220m / 721ft
PETER SYMES The author testing the Ratio iX3M 2
books
&media
Plankton
Planktonia: The Nightly Migration of
Corals
The Secret Life of Corals: Sex, War
the Ocean’s Smallest Creatures, by and Rocks That Don’t Roll, by David E.
Erich Hoyt Vaughan
As night falls, countless microscopic Corals are more than just colourful sub-
plankton around the world ascend jects in underwater photography. In this
Edited by to the upper waters of the ocean fun book, author David Vaughan shares
Catherine GS Lim to feed, then descend back to the fascinating information about them,
depths before dawn. This nightly including how they live, grow, repro-
migration attracts a diverse range of duce, protect themselves and defend
predators, from the 15cm bigfin reef their territories. He also explains why they
squid to the 2m female blanket oc- are essential to all lifeforms above and
topus. This is more than just a fasci- below the ocean surface, as well as the
nating spectacle, as plankton plays urgent environmental threats they face
a criticalrole as a carbon sink in the and the restoration efforts undertaken to
face of climate change. boost their survival.
Publisher: Firefly Books Publisher: J. Ross Publishing

Date: 15 August 2022 Date: 15 November 2022
Hardcover: 176 pages Hardcover: 260 pages
ISBN-10: 0228103835 ISBN-10: 1604271884
Ocean Art ISBN-13: 978-0228103837 ISBN-13: 978-1604271881
Ocean, Exploring the

Marine World, by
Phaidon Editors and
Anne-Marie Melster Reefs
Spanning more The Lost Continent: Coral Reef Conservation and
than 3,000 years of Restoration in the Age of Extinction, by David
history, this book contains over 300 Alexander Baker
images celebrating our relationship with the marine
world. Besides photographs, paintings and sculp- The story and beauty of the world’s coral reefs
tures, there are also early nautical cartography, sci- is told through three sections in this book: Dis-
entific illustrations, maps of the ocean floor, ancient covering Corals, Wonder and Devastation, and
Roman mosaics, Japanese woodblock prints, etc. Searching for Hope. Through gripping stories and
A fusion of oceanography and art, this compilation more than 60 breath-taking photos, readers gain
has been developed with a panel of marine biolo- a deeper understanding of coral reefs and learn
gists, research scientists, conservationists, photogra- why corals are vital to the health of our oceans.
phers, museum curators and experts from various The book also highlights the incredible conserva-
organisations. tion and restoration efforts undertaken around
the world.
Publisher: Phaidon Press Never before published in book form, see
Date: 12 October 2022 Publisher: Imagine extraordinary images of the forgotten
Hardcover: 352 pages Date: 18 October 2022 American WWII airplanes resting on the
ISBN-10: 1838664785 Hardcover: 208 pages bottom of the Kwajalein Atoll lagoon, from
ISBN-13: 978-1838664787 ISBN-10: 1623545145 award-winning underwater photographer
ISBN-13: 978-1623545147 Brandi Mueller. Available on: Amazon.com
opinion
Text by Simon Pridmore
In his Scuba series books, Simon

Pridmore often tells tales of div-
ing close calls or near misses.
He tries to identify the key fac-
tors and suggest what the divers
might have done differently to
pre-empt or better deal with
what happened. All the stories
are true. Some he witnessed,
some were recounted by
friends, and others just crossed
his radar screen at some point
Out of Control
to be filed away for future shar-
ing. This is one of the latter.
Whenever someone gets into dif-

ficulty on a dive and takes the time
to write down what happened and
post the experience on social media — A Case of Strong Current, Narcosis & Blue Orb Syndrome
or in a magazine, they help make
us all safer divers. This is not an easy JOSEPH ILLINGWORTH / FLICKR / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
thing to do as it can expose the diver
to criticism or ridicule, but none of Chris’ story chemistry. I am grateful that he chose where conditions were usually straight- was diving twin 80s, one with air and
us has the right to judge. None of us This is Chris’ story. It is not the hairiest to share it. forward. We planned to go down to a one with nitrox 36.
is immune from human error or the “bad dive” story you will ever read “It was a typical tropical day: sunny maximum depth of 60m (200ft), then “The deep section of the dive was
caprices of the ocean. but it raises a whole host of valu- with a chance of showers, although come up the reef wall and do a drift. uneventful; visibility was outstand-
We can point out lessons to learn able talking points, and it shows how the currents on the reef had been I had a single AL80 of air and an AL40 ing. Then we headed up. I switched
though. easy it is to fall victim to simple body weird all week. So, we chose a site pony containing nitrox 36. My buddy to my nitrox at 27m (90ft), and we
opinion A Pioneer Story by Simon Pridmore
When his country needed him most, sky.” In giving him this title, people were
Palauan Francis Toribiong came along speaking both literally and figuratively.
and helped the Pacific island nation
find its place in the world and be- Toribiong was so completely different
come an independent, from all of his contemporaries in
forward-looking 20th terms of his demeanor,
century state. And he his ambitions and his
achieved this, improb- vision, that it was as
ably, via the sport of if he had come from
scuba diving.This is outer space. Palau had
the inspiring tale of never seen anybody
an absolutely unique quite like him and there
life, written by Simon was no historical prec-
Pridmore and illus- edent for what he did.
trated with images of He had no operations
the beautiful islands manual to consult and
of Palau, above and no examples to follow.
below the water. He wrote his own life.
Toribiong was born Toribiong was the first Pa-
IMAGE SOURCES: CRAIG HATFIELD/CC BY 2.0, TT/PIXABAY

poor, had no aca- lauan ever to seek and
demic leanings and seize the international
no talent for diplo- narrative. No Palauan, in
macy. Yet he was driven any context or field, had
to succeed by a combination of duty, previously thought to go out into the
faith, a deep-seated determination world and say: “This is Palau—what we
to do the right thing and an absolute have is wonderful. Come and see!” This
refusal ever to compromise his values. is his astonishing story.
And, as well as all that, he was Palau’s
first ever parachutist—known by island- Available in paperback or ebook on:
ers as “the Palauan who fell from the Amazon, Apple, GooglePlay and Kobo
drifted along the reef at 15m (50ft), cerned. I was fit, I was diving with not beat, and I was not going to let “Suddenly, I found myself heading “After 90 minutes of rest and no
just sightseeing. Forty minutes into the large freediving fins, and I was feel- this one defeat me. up fast! The ocean had relaxed its DCS symptoms, we went back in and
dive, my computer told me my deco ing great: no worries. I started finning “Then, the current changed. grip and released me. Before I knew did a second shallow dive on 36%
obligation was around 12 minutes horizontally back towards the reef. Suddenly, I was being pulled straight it, my head broke the surface. My first nitrox. Later, I reviewed my dive log
at 6m (20ft). By that time, we were However, no matter how hard I down at a terrible pace. I inflated my thought was, “I am in trouble. I am and saw that the current had pulled
hanging out just over the top of the finned, the reef kept receding into BCD to try and arrest my descent. It probably going to get bent here.” me down to 18m (60ft). It had felt
reef at about 10m (35ft), where there the distance. The current had picked was no help. I was still going down. I “I immediately descended again. much, much deeper! The computer
was always plenty to see, so we just up. I glanced at my buddy and saw started finning as hard as I could to I was low on gas in both my cylin- clocked my rapid ascent at 45m
stayed there, waiting for the deco him drifting out into blue water too, stop myself from going down and, ders, and I was frightened that the (150ft) per minute.”
minutes to count down. My buddy on the end of his SMB line. to make things worse, the current current would pull me down again.
sent up his surface marker buoy (SMB) “Every instinct told me, “Get back started spinning me around violently. I could sense it toying with my feet. Talking points
to let the boat know where we were. to the reef!” I looked down and Bubbles were everywhere. I had an I raised my SMB and floated along There is plenty to unpack in Chris’ story.
“I had about six minutes of deco thought I saw a huge swirling vortex. iron grip on my inflator and the dump at 6m (20ft). By the time my com- Let’s start with the idea of doing a 60m
left to do when I felt a gentle tug It looked terrifying. The current was valve was screaming as it released puter cleared, my nitrox cylinder was (200ft) dive with a single cylinder of air
from the ocean. The current was still pulling me away, but I was deter- the air in my already full BCD. My empty, and I had less than 15 bar and a pony of nitrox 36 or back-mount-
picking up and pulling me away mined to get back to the reef. I had mask was half full of water and I was (300psi) in my AL80. I returned to the ed independent twin cylinders, one
from the reef. I was not overly con- never encountered a current I could panting hard. surface and the boat picked me up. containing air and the other nitrox 36.
opinion NEW 4 in 1!
Simon Pridmore has released
a new single-volume e-book,
bringing together four books in
his bestselling Scuba series:
• Scuba Fundamental – Start Diving
the Right Way
• Scuba Confidential – An Insider’s
Guide to Becoming a Better Diver
• Scuba Exceptional – Become the
Best Diver You Can Be, and
• Scuba Professional – Insights into
Sport Diver Training & Operations
As Simon puts it, this is “a remaster-

ing and repackaging of the origi-
nal albums rather than a greatest
hits.” Nothing is missing. Scuba
Compendium gives e-book read-
ers the advantage of being able to of it unavailable elsewhere; his points
access all the knowledge contained often illustrated by real life experienc-
in the four books in one place, makes and cautionary tales. He examines
ing this a unique and easily search- familiar issues from new angles, looks
able work of reference for divers at at the wider picture and borrows
every level. techniques and procedures from
Simon has always promoted the other areas of human activity.
idea of safer diving through the
acquisition of knowledge, which is E-book File Size: 5298 KB
why he has chosen to release this Published by Sandsmedia
highly accessible version. If you have Sold by: Amazon, Kobo, Tolino & others
read his work before, you will know ASIN: B09DBGHJSC
that he provides divers with extremely
ANTHONY PEARSON / FLICKR / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
useful advice and information, much simonpridmore.com
Two cylinders. First, the strategy of a blown cylinder O-ring or a regulator empty before you get there, even if depth causes you to retain more car- As soon as he felt it carrying him
carrying two cylinders on your back, free-flow—you have two options: you think clearly and act quickly, an bon dioxide than usual in your body away from the reef, he thought he
one with your deep gas and the impossible feat at 60m (200ft) with and this increases your narcosis. was in danger, and he was afraid of
other with your deco gas, has been 1. Switch to your nitrox 36, which at the level of narcosis that breathing Narcosis diminishes your capacity for leaving the wall behind. He did not
killing divers for decades because it 60m (200ft) has a PO2 of 2.52 atmo- air at that depth brings on. rational thought and correct decision- need to fight the current. He could
is so easy for a diver with this configu- spheres and is likely to give you making, and research has shown that have just popped his SMB up and
ration to breathe the wrong gas at instant oxygen toxicity convulsions, or So, effectively, you have no viable narcosis accumulated at depth does drifted with the flow, as his buddy did.
the wrong depth. No training agency backup plan for dealing with an air not dissipate as you ascend. You are
teaches it, yet the practice persists. 2. Ascend immediately to 33m (110ft), supply emergency at 60m (200ft). still affected up to 30 minutes after your Blue orb syndrome. Some divers are
The configuration issue aside, expe- where your nitrox 36 will be safe to dive has ended. Narcosis also affects affected by a phenomenon known
rienced divers in the tropics do dives breathe. This sounds fine until you Narcosis. Narcosis is the biggest perception and generates confusion, as “blue orb syndrome,” which leads
like this all the time, without really con- calculate that this ascent will take threat to a diver on an air dive to which may explain why Chris’ thinking them to become anxious when they
sidering the true risks. If you have an you three minutes at a safe speed 60m (200ft). Not only is your breathing was flawed from the moment the cur- can no longer see the reef or sea-
air supply emergency at depth—either and that your air cylinder will be gas narcotic, but the density of air at rent took hold of his dive. bed. In Chris’ case, this anxiety would
opinion Out of Control
have been exacerbated by his safety. His narcosis-fueled brain down less than 10m (33ft).
frantic finning and contributed perceived the downcurrent All he had to do when he
to the panic that was about to to be a terrifying, vicious force was caught in the downcurrent
grip him when he encountered dragging him into the abyss. was to keep calm and swim
the downcurrent and inter- On the contrary, as he found laterally until he escaped from
preted his inability to maintain out when he looked at his its pull. Instead, he chose the
depth control as a risk to his computer later, it carried him worst possible response and
CHRISTIAN GLOOR / FLICKR / CC BY 2.0

inflated his BCD while finning again can cause any bubbles to Becoming a Better Diver,
hard upwards. This gave him generated by the rapid ascent Scuba Exceptional: Become
his first genuine problem, as he to take on more gas and grow, the Best Diver You Can Be, and
discovered when the current and big bubbles are more Scuba Professional: Insights into
released him, and he shot to harmful than small bubbles. Sport Diver Training & Opera-
the surface. This also argues against the tions, which are now available
wisdom of doing a second in a compendium. He is also
Stay on the surface. Finally, dive after an episode like this. the co-author of the Diving &
after his rapid ascent, the Physiologically and psycho- Snorkeling Guide to Bali and
smartest thing for Chris to do logically, if you have had a bad the Diving & Snorkeling Guide
would have been to stay on dive, it is always best to sit out to Raja Ampat & Northeast
the surface, instead of return- the rest of the day on the sur- Indonesia. His recent published
ing to depth to clear his com- face, self-monitor and leave any books include The Diver Who
puter. He had only blown a further diving to the next day, Fell From The Sky, Dive into Tai-
few minutes of deco and assuming you have no residual wan, Scuba Physiological: Think
modern dive computers oper- DCS symptoms or anxiety.  You Know All About Scuba
ate with substantial margins of Medicine? Think Again! and
safety. The greatest risk posed Simon Pridmore is the author the Dining with Divers series of
by a rapid ascent is the gen- of the international bestsell- cookbooks. For more informa-
eration of bubbles in the body. ers Scuba Fundamental: Start tion, please see his website at:
Going back down and starting Diving the Right Way, Scuba SimonPridmore.com.
to breathe gas under pressure Confidential: An Insider’s Guide
CHRISTIAN GLOOR / FLICKR / CC BY 2.0
marine
mammals
Orcas hunt great white sharks
Footage shows pod of orcas
killing a great white shark
ture, allowing the orcas to drown
the animal at the surface. The
and devouring its liver. orcas then selectively cut open
Text by the shark to extract its liver and, in
MOLLIE NACCARATO, SOOKE COASTAL EXPLORATIONS, PWWA

Catherine some cases, other internal organs.
GS Lim For several years, scientists have
suspected that orcas have been Sharks keep clear of orcas
killing and eating parts of great Researchers have also discovered
white sharks. Now, they have that dozens of great white sharks
video evidence to prove it. have been actively avoiding parts
New drone and helicopter foot- of the Gansbaai coast, a white
age show a pod of orcas ruthlessly shark aggregation site in the West-
pursuing a great white shark in Mos- ern Cape in South Africa, when
sel Bay, South Africa, for more than the orcas are around.
an hour before going in for the By combining long-term sightings
kill. The video culminates with one and tagging data, they found that
of the killer whales gobbling up a tagged sharks sometimes disap-
large chunk of the shark’s liver. peared for weeks or months at a
The footage may shed new time, abandoning territory that, his-
light on the way white sharks try to torically, has been dominated by
evade orca attacks: staying within these animals.  SOURCE: ECOLOGY
Humpback whales and orcas were spotted interacting at the Strait of Juan de Fuca sight of their predator. That is a com-
on the US-Canadian border. Watch the video >>> mon strategy used by seals and tor-
toises to evade sharks, the research- I always refer to the orcas as
Orcas and humpbacks brawl ers said. But that circling approach
is probably ineffective for escaping
being like the wolves of the ocean.
orcas, which are social mammals They've kind of got the edge on Update On Diving Medicine
The Pacific Whale Watch Intense and hunt in groups, cornering their this because, you know, they're
According to observers who came prey, the scientists wrote. Socorro, Mexico:
Association (PWWA) witnessed coordinated and they've got team- January 21-29, 2023
a rare event unfold as a large and went throughout the day, the
intense encounter that unfolded
They are highly intelligent mam-
mals and this is reflected in the work, whereas the white sharks 6
spots
Gary Rose, MD, Tour Leader
group of Bigg’s (transient) included an astonishing three hours way they hunt. First, they stun the are on their own. They're caught Nautilus Belle Amie, Dive Operator
left!
orcas and a pair of humpback of breaching, tail-slapping and loud shark by ramming it, then turn it
whales harassed each other vocalizations. upside down to disorient it, caus- by surprise and they're basically Earn 8 CME credits: all participants,
in any allied medical field
during a dramatic hours-long Eventually, the whale watchers lost ing it to enter a trance-like state just panicking.
Option to go on to San Ignacio:
encounter in the Strait of Juan sight of the epic encounter when a known as tonic immobility. Sharks January 30-February 2, 2023,
thick cloud of fog rolled in, so the re- essentially stop moving in this pos- — Alison Towner, shark biologist See grey whales & their calves
de Fuca. sult of the contest remains a mystery. while glamping
ROBIN GWEN AGARWAL / FLICKR / CC BY-NC 2.0
“I’m still trying to wrap my head

Whale watchers were making their around it because it was absolutely
way toward the US-Canadian bor- unbelievable,” said Mollie Nac-
der in the Strait of Juan de Fuca carato, captain and naturalist for
when the captain spotted the group Sooke Coastal Explorations on south ROBIN GWEN AGARWAL
garyrosephotos.com
of whales. At first, whale watchers Vancouver Island. “At first, the orcas
observed what they thought was a seemed to be chasing the hump-
pod of roughly 15 Bigg’s orcas swim- backs, but then when it seemed BOOK NOW:
ming and “being unusually active there was space between them, the +1 (604) 241-1918
at the surface.” Before long, it be- humpbacks would go back toward Ask for Jill and specifically
came apparent that two humpback the orcas.”  SOURCE: PACIFIC WHALE mention this course. Go to:
whales were in their midst. WATCH ASSOCIATION
Watch the video of the orcas hunting great whites here >>>
nautilusliveaboards.com/go/schedule/trip//3005193
ecology
Diver comes
face-to-face
with a giant
moray in a
shipwreck
at Mabul,
Malaysia.
Text and photos by Nigel Marsh
Aside from sharks, moray eels

are one of the most maligned
and misunderstood of all marine
animals. Thought by most peo-
ple to be highly dangerous
because of their depiction in
films and books, morays are
not malicious monsters, but
an important predator of any
healthy marine ecosystem. And
as most divers will attest, morays
are generally shy and docile
Morays
if not harassed. Nigel Marsh
shares insights about these Misunderstood & Maligned
intriguing animals.
I met my first moray as a thirteen-

year-old and it was an encounter I
will never forget. At the time, in the
1970s, the moray was considered to
be a very dangerous animal, report-
ed to attack divers and fishers. I had
read stories of Roman slaves being tered a 2m-long giant moray while instant I stuck my head into a cave aged by this vicious denizen of the no sign of the moray.
fed to hungry morays for entertain- snorkelling on the Great Barrier Reef, I and came face-to-face with an enor- deep. Catching my breath on the Building up my courage, I dived
ment and had recently seen the film was understandably terrified! mous giant moray! surface, I kept an anxious eye below, again to get a better look at this so-
The Deep, which included a scene The incident occurred as I was hap- I almost swallowed my snorkel, and fearful that the eel would emerge from called “monster”. I slowly approached
where an enormous moray attacks pily snorkelling the reef edge, but quickly backed out of the cave and its lair and attack me at any second. the cave and stopped several metres
and kills a diver. So, when I encoun- my feeling of joy turned to terror the shot to the surface before I was sav- But after several minutes, there was away from the large eel.
ecology Morays
Not all morays have
sharp teeth, as
some, like this snow-
flake moray, have
short stumpy teeth
designed to crush the
shells of prey (right).
This huge moray, with a body as

thick as my thigh, did not seem to
be interested in me at all. I closely
studied the eel, looking for signs of Morays, like this impressive mosaic
aggression, worried that it might sud- moray, are renowned for their sharp
denly lunge forward and attack. But it fang-like teeth, but morays also have
seemed to be content simply resting a second hidden jaw located in their
in its cave looking at passing fish, not throat to assist in swallowing prey (right).
even snapping at them. It did look
very fierce and threatening the way I dived down several more times to
it constantly opened and closed its study this large eel, and each time I
mouth, revealing rows of razor-sharp got closer and closer, and the moray
teeth, but apart from that, it seemed continued to ignore me. It was only
to be quite unassuming, not the mon- at this point that I realised the moray
ster I had been brainwashed into was not alone, as an even bigger
believing was a threat to divers. giant moray was lurking at the other
end of the cave. Seeing this second Muraenidae and 211 species are cur- teeth, with most species having long
larger moray was a huge shock, rently recognised. Like all eels, they dagger-like fangs. These teeth vary in
especially when I realised, I had had have an elongated body, and most size and arrangement depending on
my back to this moray the entire time. are nocturnal hunters, hiding away the species and what they eat, but
It could have attacked me several in a lair by day. The great majority of a few have short blunt teeth that are
times, but it did not, as it seemed to morays live in tropical and subtropical designed to crush the shells of crusta-
be completely indifferent to me. waters, especially on shallow coral ceans and molluscs.
I suddenly realised that all I had reefs. However, a few species inhabit
seen, read and heard about these cooler temperate waters, others Jaws and teeth. Morays use their
animals was completely untrue. deep water, some venture into brack- sharp teeth to catch and restrain
Returning to this cave the next day, I ish waters and a few are even found prey, or in the case of the stumpy
was disappointed to find it empty, the in freshwater. teeth morays, crush and detain. Some
morays having moved to another lair. Morays are easily distinguished from even have an extra row of teeth on
That experience taught me that their cousins, the conger eels, as they the roof of their mouth to restrain
morays are not dangerous, aggres- have a larger head and deeper body, prey. Morays do not chew their food,
sive animals as presented in the but smaller eyes. However, some so it has to be swallowed whole. To
media at the time, and it also started small morays do look similar to conger assist in this process, morays have a
my fascination with these incredible eels. The easiest way to tell the two second unique set of teeth located
reef residents. families apart is to look for pectoral in the back of their throat called the
fins behind the head, congers have pharyngeal jaw. Some fish also pos-
Biology and behaviour them and morays do not. Morays also sess pharyngeal jaws, but they remain
Morays constantly have to open and close their mouths Morays are placed in the family typically have much more prominent static and are used to further process
to breath, as illustrated by this fimbriated moray.
ecology
Most morays reside in tropical or sub-
tropical waters, but the green or yellow
moray lives in the temperate waters
of Australia and New Zealand (left); Morays
Morays often share their lairs with cleaner
shrimps, like this honeycomb moray and
a white-banded cleaner shrimp (below);
Some morays are solitary creatures, but
others, like these white-eyed morays, are
happy to share a home (right); Morays
make homes in caves, cracks and crev-
ices in natural and artificial reefs, but this
small sieve-patterned moray has select-
ed a sea squirt as its lair (bottom right).
fish woke just in time and shot away

to safety, but the moray managed to
grab several small fish, including one
fusilier that it bit in half!
Most morays have very prominent
tube-like nostrils at the end of their
snout to detect the scent of prey. This is
their most important sense for hunting
food while it is swallowed. In morays, Hunting behavior. Encountering a quarry, as many morays are consid-
the pharyngeal jaw can extend for- hunting moray on a night dive is an ered to have poor eyesight. However, Predators of morays. A number of
ward to grab prey and smoothly unforgettable experience. On one hunting at night, good eyesight is not animals feed on morays, including
transport it into the stomach. It is memorable night dive on the Great essential. But this statement is not true groupers, sea snakes and barra-
thought the movable pharyngeal Barrier Reef, I watched a giant moray for all morays, as some feed by day, cuda. And some morays are known
jaw has evolved in morays as they (Gymnothorax javanicus) stalking the grabbing prey that swims by their to be cannibalistic, feeding on other
do not suck in prey like fish, as resid- reef, hunting for sleeping fish. When a home or even hunting crabs on shore. morays. Several shark species also
ing in tight crevices leaves little room fish was discovered, the moray would In these instances, good eyesight is prey on moray eels. On one notable
for them to open their mouth wide instantly snap at the dozing fish. Some required to successfully capture prey. dive off Tweed Heads, Australia, I
enough to create a suction action. encountered a spotted wobbegong
shark (Orectolobus maculatus) with
Diet. Morays eat a variety of prey, a tail of a stout moray (Gymnothorax
most of which are captured at night. eurostus) hanging out of its mouth!
Some species are very active hunt-
ers, searching the reef and even Toxicity. Humans should avoid eat-
rock pools for prey, some even exit ing morays as their skin and flesh are
the water to grab shore crabs. While toxic, but some cultures do consume
other morays are ambush predators, them. Morays, unlike most of their fish
only seizing prey that venture close to cousins, lack scales and instead have
their lair. Morays consume fish, octo- smooth skin that is covered in a toxic
pus, cuttlefish, squid and some even mucus. Their flesh, especially the liver,
have a preference for crabs, shrimps also contains high levels of cigua-
and even seashells. When tackling toxins, which can result in ciguatera
large prey, or prey wedged in a crev- poisoning if consumed. A number of
ice, morays have been observed deaths have been recorded from of holes when looking for prey. The
tying their body into a knot to exert people eating moray flesh. mucus also assists a number of sand-
more force, and also knotting them- The secreted mucus that coats the burrowing morays, like the ribbon eel
selves around large prey to rip it apart body of morays protects the skin, (Rhinomuraena quaesita), to slide
or compress it for easier swallowing. making it easier to slide through the through the sand and keep their bur-
water, over the reef and in and out row walls from collapsing.
ecology
A number of morays can change sex,
but only the ribbon eel changes colour
as well. This ribbon eel is in the process
of change from its black juvenile phase
to its blue male colouration (right); Many
morays have decorative skin patterns that
assist with camouflage, like this whitelip
moray (bottom left); The whitemouth
moray is appropriately named as its does
have a white mouth, while other morays
have patterned mouths (bottom right).
Skin patterns, gills and size. Some constantly open and close their
morays have very plain and even mouth. When first encountered, this
drab skin patterns, but most have dec- behaviour does look very threatening,
orative skin patterns of spots, bands, especially with the mouth gaping and
reticulations and marbling. These skin revealing rows of very sharp teeth, but
patterns have evolved to aid in cam- this is simply the way morays breathe.
ouflage. In some species, these pat- Morays vary greatly in size. Most are
terns also decorate the inside of the around 1m long, but the smallest, the
mouth, and a few also have brightly Synder’s moray (Anarchias leucurus),
coloured mouths, most notably the reaches a length of only 12cm, while understood. Most morays are solitary, become sexually mature. their sex are sometimes observed with
yellowmouth moray (Gymnothorax the longtail moray (Strophidon sath- only coming together to breed. There The life cycle of some morays is a mix of yellow and blue colours.
nudivomer) and whitemouth moray ete) can grow to 4m in length. It is is no known breeding season, but not that simple, as some species can We know sadly little about the life-
(Gymnothorax meleagris). thought that morays live between 10 an abundance of food and warmer change their sex from female to male styles of most morays. Some have a
The gills of morays are quite small, and 30 years. water temperatures over summer or vice versa, most notably the rib- limited home range and a preferred
simply a round opening located are thought to be triggers that lead bon eel. This strange moray not only lair, while others roam the reef and use
behind the head. To assist in pumping Reproduction. The sex lives and to more successful mating. Courting changes its sex, but also changes a variety of hideouts. Most live solitary
water through these small gills, morays breeding habits of morays are poorly morays have been documented colour, with the juveniles being black, lives, but others are happy to share a
opening their mouths wide in an elab- the females yellow and the males lair with other morays of the same and
orate courtship display and wrapping blue. How long this process takes is other species. Some morays have also
their bodies around each other. The unknown, but morays transitioning been documented hunting co-oper-
female then lays her eggs, and the
male fertilises them with his sperm.
Some lay their eggs in a secure hiding
place in the reef, while others release
them straight into the water column.
Life cycle. The young take between

30 to 45 days to hatch, then they
drift with the plankton in a ribbon-like
larval stage, known as a leptocepha-
lus. Depending on the species, they
remain in this larval form for months
and even years. Moray larvae have
no digestive tract, and with a body
wall only one cell thick, they can-
not digest plankton and instead eat
the discarded exoskeleton of plank-
ton and plankton faeces. As they
start to develop into their adult form,
they find a reef to call home. It takes
around three years for most morays to
ecology Morays
Dead barred
moray, a victim of
fishing activities
atively with other fish, mostly groupers,

with the two species working together
to corner and flush out prey. Eating morays is not recommended
as they have toxic skin and flesh.
Intelligence and interaction. Morays However, some cultures do risk eat-
are considered to be more intel- ing morays. I found these fangtooth
ligent than the average fish. This is morays in a market in Morocco (right).
especially evident to divers that have
struck up a relationship with a moray lowmargin moray (Gymnothorax fla-
through feeding them, with the moray vimarginatus) at Heron Island, Great
recognising and sometimes interact- Barrier Reef, called Harry. Throughout
ing with only one diver. the 1970s, Val would feed, pat and
The most famous example of this is play with this friendly moray, even
Valerie Taylor’s relationship with a yel- pulling him out of his home and carrying him around. He recognised and
trusted Val, even if she only visited This unfortunate sieve-
Harry once a year. Val later had a patterned moray has
similar relationship with a spotted tried to twist itself in
moray (Gymnothorax isingteena) in knots to escape a
the Banda Sea, Indonesia. hook and fishing line,
Feeding morays is not recom- sadly without success
mended, as numerous divers have (left); This poor highfin
moray has swallowed
been bitten in these situations. Apart
a fishhook and still has
from feeding incidents, how danger-
fishing line protrud-
ous are morays? Morays are not nor- ing from its mouth
mally aggressive, but accidents do (above); A number of
happen, and divers have been bitten animals eat morays,
when placing their hands too close to including sharks. I
a moray’s head or home. However, encountered this spot-
moray attacks are rare, and morays ted wobbegong shark
have much more to fear from humans. eating a stout moray
off Tweed Heads,
Fishing threats Australia (top right)
While not commonly targeted for
food, morays often fall foul of fishers, This unfortunately leaves the hook aquarium trade. How many are taken
and unfortunately, some kill the poor in place in the moray’s mouth, throat and die each year for the entertain-
moray either thinking they are per- or stomach, which can lead to a ment of a few is unknown.
forming a public service or getting slow death from septicaemia. I have
rid of competition. However, most occasionally found dead morays at Moray species
fishers cut captured morays free, not popular fishing spots, with the poor There are 211 recognised moray spe-
wanting to tangle with a mouthful of moray tangled in yards of fishing line. cies that are split into two subfamilies
Giant morays are often attracted to shark feeds and even muscle out the sharp teeth. Morays are also captured for the and sixteen different genera based
sharks. This one was photographed at a shark feed at Beqa Lagoon, Fiji.
ecology
The shy barred moray has short stumpy
teeth and feeds on crustaceans and
molluscs (left); The barred-fin moray is
a species found on tropical reefs of the Morays
Indo-Pacific region (below); The geometric
moray has a wonderful pattern of dots on
its head (right); The spotted moray is easily
confused with the very similar looking hon-
eycomb moray (bottom right).
isingteena). However, this species has

a sparsely spotted pattern and only
grows to 1.8m in length.
While members of this genus are
found around the world, they are far
more common in the tropical and
subtropical waters of the Indo-Pacific
region. Common tropical members
of this genus include the white-eyed
moray (Gymnothorax thyrsoideus),
Zealand is the yellow or green moray ber of this genus, easily identified
(Gymnothorax prasinus). by its black and white bands and
yellow spots. This species grows to
Echidna. The eleven members of 75cm and is another species found
on similar body characteristics. Most the Echidna genus all have stumpy- in the Indo-Pacific region. The barred
species are placed in the subfamily blunt teeth to crack the shells of moray (Echidna polyzona) is found
Muraeninae, which I like to call the crustaceans and molluscs. The wide- in the same region and is of a similar
true morays. The eleven genera in this ranging snowflake moray (Echidna size, but like many other members of
group have a continuous dorsal fin that nebulosa) is the best-known mem- this genus, it is shy and rarely seen.
starts above the gill opening and runs
the length of the body, before wrap-
ping around the tail and fusing with
the anal fin. The other five genera are
placed in the Uropterygiinae subfamily,
or the snake morays. These morays typi-
cally have less obvious dorsal and anal
fins starting farther down their body,
closer to the tail, and many have a
more rounded snake-like body.
The true morays

Gymnothorax. Most of the famil-
iar morays that divers encoun- cling out the sharks, and has been the fimbriated moray (Gymnothorax
ter are placed in the very large known to eat other morays. Another fimbriatus) and the barred-fin
Gymnothorax genus. All 125 species common member of this genus is the moray (Gymnothorax zonipectus).
in this genus have very sharp fang- honeycomb moray (Gymnothorax The prettiest member of this genus
like teeth. The best-known mem- favagineus). This black-and-white found in the western Indian Ocean is
ber of this genus is the giant moray patterned moray is found in the Indo- the geometric moray (Gymnothorax
(Gymnothorax javanicus), a common Pacific region and is reported to griseus), which has a pattern of dots
eel seen throughout the Indo-Pacific reach 3m in length. This species is eas- on its head. One of the few members
region. This large moray often makes ily confused with the very similarly pat- of this genus found in the temperate
an appearance at shark feeds, mus- terned spotted moray (Gymnothorax waters of Australia and northern New
ecology Morays
The fangtooth
moray is a spec-
tacular member of
the family found in
the eastern Atlantic
(right); Black moray
residing on a ship-
wreck in the Canary
Islands (below)
The beautiful zebra moray is another species lacking sharp teeth (top
right); With flaring nostrils and beard-like whiskers, the ribbon eel is one
of the most unique members of the moray family (lower right)
eastern Atlantic. My favourite family. These fascinating eels

from this group is the mosaic grow to 1.6m in length and
moray (Enchelycore ramosa) have a very thin ribbon-like
which grows to 1.6m in length. body. Ribbon eels typically live
This attractive moray is only in sand and rubble, with their
found in a limited area off the body mucus cementing their
eastern coast of Australia and tunnel walls together so they
northern New Zealand. can quickly slide in and out of
their home. Two of the more
Muraena. Twelve species unusual features of the ribbon
make up the Muraena genus eel are a set of large flaring
of morays. These eels typically nostrils and chin barbels, used
have sharp teeth, and most to detect prey.
are only found in the Atlantic
Gymnomuraena. The zebra long dagger-like teeth and a Ocean. The Canary Islands is Pseudechidna. The white rib-
moray (Gymnomuraena zebra) curved jaw that prevents them a good place to see one of bon eel (Pseudechidna brum-
is very similar to the Echidna from completely closing their these morays, with the black meri) is a close relative of the
morays, having short blunt mouths. Most members of this moray (Muraena augusti) often ribbon eel but is placed in a
teeth, but is placed in a genus genus also have remarkable encountered by divers. This separate genus Pseudechidna
all by itself—Gymnomuraena. colour patterns, including the black-coloured moray has white all by itself. While it does have
Found throughout the Indo- dragon moray (Enchelycore eyes and grows to 1.6m long. a ribbon-like body and resides
Pacific region, this pretty moray pardalis). Although found in the sand and rubble, it lacks The snake morays tigrina) is found throughout the
is brown with white bands and throughout the Indo-Pacific, Rhinomuraena. The ribbon eel the large flaring nostrils of the Scuticaria. The two mem- Indo-Pacific region but is only
grows to 1.5m in length. this extraordinary moray is (Rhinomuraena quaesita) is ribbon eel, having a more tra- bers of the Scuticaria genus occasionally seen by divers at
only locally common to a the only member of the genus ditional moray head decorat- are typical of morays in the night. This blotched coloured
Enchelycore. The most spec few locations. The fangtooth Rhinomuraena and some ed with small brown spots. This Uropterygiinae subfamily, they moray grows to 1.4m in length
tacular morays are found in moray (Enchelycore anatina) argue that it is so different from is another Indo-Pacific species almost lack dorsal fins and and is sometimes seen in the
the genus Enchelycore. The 13 is another striking member of all other morays that it should that grows to 1m in length. have rounded bodies. The Red Sea and Southeast Asia.
members of this family have this genus that is found in the be listed in its own separate eel tiger snake moray (Scuticaria
ecology
The white ribboned
eel looks very similar
to the ribbon eel but
is placed in a sepa- Morays
rate genus (right);
The tiger snake
moray is a shy spe-
cies occasionally
seen on Indo-Pacific
reefs (below)
ants, that indicated any geographic

separation. And while they found
variations between the genes of indi-
vidual morays, they discovered noth-
ing related to geographic separation.
This was quite astonishing; how can
morays over 20,000km apart have no
distinctive regional genetic markers?
The researchers came to the con-
clusion that morays are genetically
Uropterygius. The 20 morays of the
was inspired to study morays after a homogeneous because of their long
genus Uropterygius are rarely seen
dive of Oahu and seeing five differ- larval stage, which allows them to
by divers. The only member of this
ent moray species sharing the same widely disburse and constantly stir the
genus that I have encountered is the
lair. He wondered how this could gene pool. Biologists have theorised
blotched snake moray (Uropterygius
be, especially after capturing them that the longer the larvae stage of a
fasciolatus). This species grows to
and finding out they were eating the fish, the more genetically homogene-
60cm in length and is very shy. same prey. This broke the basic rules ous the species and the wider its dis-
There are a number of other genus
of nature on diversity, similar species tribution. Some morays remain in their
groups that I have not included,do not exploit the same niche as one larvae stage for months and even
mainly because they are rarely seen
will always prevail, but morays do not years. While some fish also have long
by divers. appear to follow this rule. larval stages, moray larvae are the
Collecting morays across the Indo- only fish found to cross vast ocean
Moray research Pacific region, with a focus on the distances and survive barriers that
With their dangerous reputation, it is undulated moray (Gymnothorax other fish larvae never manage to
understandable why little research undulatus) and yellowmargin moray, bridge. This theory also explains why
has been done on morays. One of the Reece discovered that morays are some morays have a limited range
few researchers to study morays was the most cosmopolitan of all reef fish- and others are widespread, the wider
The yellowmargin moray is a widespread species found through- Joshua Reece, when he did his Ph.D. es. Studying their genes, the research- distribution linked to the longer larval
out the Indo-Pacific region (above); The blotched snake moray is at the University of Hawaii in 2005. He ers looked for unique alleles, or vari- stage of some species.
another shy species that is rarely seen by divers (top left)
ecology Morays
The grey moray is

a common spe-
cies at the Poor
Knights Islands
and often boldly
sits out in the
open or is draped
over sponges and
kelp (right)
Moray eels are the most cos-
mopolitan of all the reef fishes,
with the undulated moray
found across the Indo-Pacific
region (left); Large honeycomb
moray hanging out of a hole at
Kanduohgiri in the Maldives (right)
Special moray dive sites years. I am not sure if this is a The Poor Knights Islands are that hide in a lair, these morays
Brisbane, Australia. Morays are case of some species being located in a temperate zone, like to drape themselves over
seen at dive sites across the abundant and others sparse in so it is a big surprise that so sponges and kelp.
planet, but being shy and retir- numbers, or simply that some many subtropical moray spe- Two other morays are
ing, they are sometimes hard are extraverted and happy to cies are found here. The rea- commonly seen at the Poor
to find. I feel very fortunate to be seen and others are intro- son they are here is due to Knights in smaller numbers,
live in an area where morays verted and prefer to remain hid- the warm waters of the East the spectacular mosaic
are very common, in Brisbane, den—or maybe a combination. Australia Current, made famous moray (Enchelycore ramosa)
Australia, right in the centre of in the film Finding Nemo, warm- and the more low-key low-
Unfortunately, the research ers theorising that with the the Indo-Pacific. This subtropi- Poor Knights, New Zealand. ing the local waters and also fin moray (Gymnothorax
did not find answers to why removal of sharks, morays have cal region is home to over a While I feel blessed to be able bringing subtropical visitors, porphyreus). If that was not
a great variety of moray spe- become the top predators on dozen species of moray. to see such a great variety of including morays. enough, two less-common
cies can share the same niche these reefs. In addition, anoth- On most dives, I encounter morays at my local dive sites, At every dive site at the species are seen from time
of food, habitat and distribu- er recent study of California between five and ten morays they are not the best moray Poor Knights, divers see moray to time, the mottled moray
tion, and how over 150 species morays (Gymnothorax mordax) and have found that some spe- destinations I have found. Over eels, and not just one or two, (Gymnothorax prionodon)
evolved in the Indo-Pacific off Catalina Island discovered cies are very common, others the 40 years I have been diving, but dozens upon dozens. The and the Lord Howe moray
region in the first place. that morays residing in marine locally common, some only I have found only two special most common species are two (Gymnothorax annasona).
Another recent study in the protected areas were longer, occasionally seen and some sites where the morays are the temperate morays, the yellow However, I got a big surprise
Caribbean found that morays older, heavier, in better condi extremely rare. A few morays dominant creatures—the Poor moray and the endemic grey when diving this area when I
are more common on reefs tion and in greater abundance that are recorded in the area Knights Islands in New Zealand moray (Gymnothorax nubilus). found a completely unexpect-
with higher levels of human than the morays in unprotect- I have never seen, even after and a wonderful dive site in the The grey morays are particular- ed moray—the Y-patterned
pressure, with the researched areas. diving this region for almost 40 Maldives called Kanduohgiri. ly obvious; unlike most morays moray (Gymnothorax berndti).
ecology
A completely unexpected find at the Poor Knights Islands was this deep-
water Y-patterned moray (above); The lowfin moray is a little harder to find
at the Poor Knights Islands (centre)
This pretty moray, with its black-and- a more spectacular sight

white reticulated pattern, is found nearby, a honeycomb and
throughout the Indo-Pacific region, giant moray sharing a hole.
but is one of the few deep-water Beyond this pair of morays
species found at depths up to 300m. was another large honey-
What it was doing in 15m of water at comb moray, and another,
the Poor Knights I do not know, but I and another.
was extremely excited to photograph During the dive brief, the There are so many morays at Kanduohgiri that they often have to share
this rare moray. If you are into morays, chief guide Issey had men- holes in the reef. This hole was home to two honeycomb morays and a
the Poor Knights Islands are a must-do tioned that this site was giant moray (above).
destination. adjacent to a tuna process-
ing plant and was home to journalist whose work has also self-published a book—HMAS
Kanduohgiri, Maldives. The most a few morays, but over the been published in numer- Brisbane Queensland Coral Warship
specular individual moray dive site I course of this dive, I saw well ous magazines, newspapers (Nigel Marsh Photography, 2011), a
have ever visited is located just north over one hundred morays. and books, both in Australia photographic exploration of one of
of the Maldives capital of Malé. I The large honeycomb and overseas. Over the last Australia’s most popular dive sites.
visited this site on the liveaboard morays were easily the most spectac- Afterthoughts 40 years, he has dived extensively He has recently been busy working
Emperor Virgo as our checkout dive ular with their bold black-and-white Morays may be still feared and hated around Australia and also through- on a series of children’s books on
on a week-long dive trip. The dive colouration, but we also saw white- by the non-diving general public, but out Asia, Pacific Ocean, Indian marine-related subjects (A to Z of
brief mentioned lots of fish and eels, eyed, yellowmargin, giant, snowflake these much-maligned and misunder- Ocean and the Caribbean. He has Sharks & Rays, Exploring Shipwrecks,
but I was not prepared for the sheer and undulated morays. And with a stood creatures are slowly revealing also produced a number of diving- Crabs & Crustaceans, Weird & Wacky
number of morays at Kanduohgiri. limited number of hiding places, most their secrets, which is showing them to related books, including two dive Fish) and a series of dive guides
Seconds after descending, I holes were packed tight with five, ten be some of the most fascinating of all guidebooks with Neville Coleman: (Underwater Australia, Muck Diving,
encountered the first eel, a large and even 20 morays. This has to be the reef fishes.  Dive Sites of the Great Barrier Reef Coral Wonderland, Diving with Sharks)
giant moray hanging out of a hole in the greatest collection of morays on and the Coral Sea (New Holland, for New Holland Publishers. For more
the reef wall. I was just about to pho- the planet! Nigel Marsh is an Australian under- 1996) and Diving Australia (Periplus information, visit the author’s website:
tograph this moray when we spotted water photographer and photo- Editions, 1997). In addition, he has nigelmarshphotography.com.
ROGERS FUND, 1972 / PUBLIC DOMAIN
dive
medicine
Ear Problems in Diving

Part II: The Middle Ear
Text by Michael Rothschild, MD The middle ear ed into electrical impulses that are normally closed position
The middle ear is the space behind sent to the brain (see illustration). after being opened. This
Many people suffer from ear the eardrum (also known as the tym- opening can be active—
problems during and after div- panic membrane, or TM). It is lined The middle ear is basically an exten- for example, by the mus-
with mucosa, which is the same sort of sion of the upper airway (the nose cle action of ear clearing
ing. Technical rebreather diver “skin” that lines the mouth and nose. It and throat), and it is connected to maneuvers on descent.
and underwater photographer also contains the three bones of hear- the back of the nose by a pathway It can also be passive, as
Dr Michael Rothschild is an ear, ing, known as “ossicles,” which carry called the Eustachian tube (ET). The gas flows from the middle
nose and throat specialist in sound vibrations from the eardrum to walls of this pathway are supported by ear back into the airway
New York City. In this series, he the inner ear, where they are convert- cartilage, which springs back to the during ascent.
walks us through some of the Diving injuries to the mid-
common causes of dive-related dle ear are the result
ear problems, and how to treat of barotrauma, which
and prevent them. is damage caused by
gas pressure changes. PIA / PEXELS
As every certified diver
I am an avid scuba diver and an knows, diving requires equalization nected by wide passages, so pressure
ear, nose and throat specialist, which of the pressure outside of the body changes occur everywhere at once in
means that I end up answering a lot of with that inside, otherwise a gradi- the airway, as a regulator delivers gas
questions about this topic! The major- ent builds up. In the ear, this refers at ambient pressure (proportional to
ity of medical problems encountered to a difference in pressure between depth). It is possible to get a pressure
by divers involves the ears. While they the middle ear and the outer ear, gradient in the lungs—usually due to
are rarely as serious as decompression across the TM. This can cause pain internal blockages of the air passages
sickness or other life-threatening con- and eventually damage. Since fluid or by closing the larynx and holding
ditions, they are incredibly common is essentially non-compressible, there the breath while ascending. While this
and can ruin a dive trip. are only significant pressure gradients is potentially serious, it is also quite rare.
in the air-filled spaces of the body.
In the last installment of this series, I There is also a small amount of air in
discussed conditions affecting the Most of the air in the body is in the other spaces in the body—the middle
outer ear. We now turn to the prob- airways—the lungs, the windpipe, the ear, the nasal sinuses, and sometimes
lems of the middle ear, and their pre- larynx (voice box), the throat, mouth the teeth (underneath dental work).
vention and management. MICHAEL ROTHSCHILD / CANVA and nose. All of these spaces are con- These spaces are connected to the
dive
medicine
A failure to equalize
on descent can result in a
“block”—a situation when the
Ear Problems
pressure gradient itself makes
it harder for the ET to open,
which results in a further gra-
dient if descent is continued,
leading to a vicious cycle and
potential injury.
and gives way when subjected to

enough of a pressure gradient.
If the eardrum does not perforate, fluid

with or without blood can accumu-
late in the middle ear space. Unlike
the middle ear infections that young
children get, this fluid is clean with no
DOMINIC SCAGLIONI / FLICKR / CC BY 2.0
bacteria. Clear fluid is called an “effu-
sion,” and a bloody effusion is called a
Equalization techniques tioning ET, the change in middle “hemotympanum.” The effusion is actu-
and problems ear gas pressure lags the change in ally the result of fluid in the bloodstream
To equalize the ears, the ET must be ambient pressure. That means that (plasma) filtering into the middle ear
opened in the presence of a pres- during ascent there is higher pres- due to the pressure gradient. In very
sure gradient. This can be done by a sure in the middle ear than in the rare cases, middle ear barotrauma can
number of maneuvers taught in basic airway (the reverse of what hap- cause weakness of the face, since the
open water scuba instruction. Pinching pens on descent). Because of this, facial nerve controlling the muscles
the nose and blowing (Valsalva the pressure gradient may be able runs through the middle ear.
maneuver) or pinching and swallow- to overcome ET dysfunction (ETD) as
ing (Toynbee maneuver) are common the air “forces” its way out. Think of Fluid in the middle ear causes a hear-
methods for equalization, but many how it is easier to squeeze toothpaste ing loss by impeding the normal trans-
TORBEN GREGERSEN / FLICKR / CC BY-NC 2.0
divers learn to open the ET by other out of a tube than to put it back in. mission of sound vibrations through
TAUCHSPORT STEININGER / FLICKR / CC BY 2.0
approaches, such as moving the jaw, If this does not happen, a “reverse the middle ear from the eardrum to descend and ascend since their
tensing the roof of the mouth, etc. block” occurs, with worsening pain on to the inner ear. It is a “conductive” ETs do not work very well at baseline.
ascent. Of course, even in the unusu- hearing loss—the problem is that the Other people may have no problem
A failure to equalize on descent can al case that a diver cannot equalize mechanism that conducts sound is equalizing in general but find it more
result in a “block”—a situation when on the way up, eventually they must not working well. The other type of difficult when a cold or other infection
the pressure gradient itself makes surface, no matter what the conse- hearing loss is a “sensorineural” hear- causes congestion of the lining of the
it harder for the ET to open, which quences for the ear. ing loss, which implies a problem with ET. This is often oversimplified as the ET
results in a further gradient if descent the sensory organ (the cochlea) or being “small” or “narrow”—the true
is continued, leading to a vicious Barotrauma the nerves to the brain. Conductive problem is usually more of a technique
cycle and potential injury. The solu- A prolonged or significant middle hearing losses are usually temporary, issue than a structural one.
airways as well, but by small passages tion here is to stop the descent (or ear pressure gradient can result in as compared to the almost always
that may be blocked. Therefore, it is ascend a bit if necessary) until equal- barotrauma, also known as an ear permanent sensorineural loss, which Another common misconception
possible to build up a big pressure gra- ization is possible. If equalization is not “squeeze.” One common and sud- we will discuss in the next section. is that fixing nasal obstruction—for
dient in these spaces during descent possible, the dive must be aborted. den type of barotrauma is a perfo- example by straightening a deviated
and ascent, if a diver is not careful to rated eardrum. The eardrum acts like Some people have more trouble with nasal septum—will help the function
equalize fully or if there are anatomi- A less common situation may hap- the burst disk in the scuba tank—it is this than others, due to inherent ETD. of the ET. While there is some over-
cal issues preventing equalization. pen on ascent. With a poorly func- the weakest wall of the middle ear, Many divers always need a long time lap between nasal blockage due
dive
medicine
For the vast majority of
divers who have problems equal-
izing, the issue is technique and
Ear Problems
not anatomy. They may eventually
address the problem by finding
a maneuver that works to allow
them to equalize.
to an upper airway infection and ET antibiotics are almost never needed.

function as mentioned above, most Many divers swear by the use of
of the areas of the nose that require decongestants and/or nasal steroid
treatment to improve breathing are sprays to treat this problem or pre-
nowhere near the ET opening. vent its development. While these
drugs can help prevent barotrau-
Treatment ma of the nasal sinuses, there is not
An eardrum perforation related to much data to suggest that they help
barotrauma (without a history of ear middle ear disease any more than
disease) usually heals by itself over time and the ET maneuvers alone.
weeks to months, but no diving is Eardrops have no effect on the
allowed until the eardrum is once middle ear with an intact eardrum—
again intact. In some cases, surgery while they can help with outer ear
will be needed to seal the hole in the problems, they have no role in the
drum. Middle ear effusion typically treatment of barotrauma.
resolves over time, and can be helped
to resolve by the same sort of ET open- Oral steroids can help improve ET func-
ing maneuvers described above. Oral tion in the days and weeks following
RICHARD LING / FLICKR / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
a dive injury, draining an effusion, but awaiting for the ETD to resolve with Conclusion
these drugs have side effects and are growth. This is rarely necessary in older Most ear pain or hearing loss after div-
not always necessary in this situation. patients, although there is a new ing goes away by itself in a short time.
Motrin and other non-steroidal anti-in- procedure (balloon dilation of the However, without an examination, a
flammatory drugs may help with the ET) that may be helpful in selected diver may not be able to tell whether
pain but have little effect on ET func- cases. There has not been a lot of the problem is in the outer, middle ear
tion. In some cases (when no more experience using this in scuba divers, or inner ear, and treatment depends
diving is planned in the near future), but early results seem promising. on accurate diagnosis. Thorough
an ENT doctor can make a small hole evaluation of persistent ear problems
in the eardrum to drain the effusion if For the vast majority of divers who should be done by a doctor with the
it is causing severe symptoms, such as have problems equalizing, the issue tools and experience necessary to dis-
a hearing loss, or an uncomfortable is technique and not anatomy. They tinguish these types of ear disease. 
blocked sensation in the ear. may eventually address the problem
by finding a maneuver that works to Check this space again to learn
There is not a lot that can be done allow them to equalize. If the ETD is more. Next time, Dr Rothschild will dis-
directly to treat the underlying ETD. caused by a temporary problem (like cuss diving-related problems of the
In young children, small tubes can a cold or other infection), then ear inner ear and how to manage them.
be placed through the eardrum to ventilation usually returns to baseline For more information, please visit:
temporarily ventilate the ears while when the airway congestion resolves. dive.rothschilddesign.com.
TORBEN GREGERSEN / FLICKR / CC BY-NC 2.0
techtalk
Edited by
Peter Symes
Not all cave diving

requires entering tight
spaces. Caves and
caverns in Gozo Island,
Malta, offer wide spaces.
Text by Yvonne Press

Photos by Audrey Cudel,
Robin Cuesta and Yvonne Press
It may be more than four years

since the 2018 Thai cave res-
cue dominated headlines, but
the recent movie and minise-
ries releases have generated
highly emotional reactions once
again. Are divers being put off
cave diving, and why should Reactions to Thai Cave Rescue Features
Cave Diving? Not for Me!

any diver consider going under-
ground? Yvonne Press takes a
closer look, interviewing sev-
eral divers and technical diving
instructors for this report.
& Why Every Diver Should Consider Cave Diving Training
This story started in the summer of
AUDREY CUDEL
2018. During those fateful weeks,
13 children of a Thai football team Since then, the joint rescue efforts recently, a limited series on Netflix media and beyond. Some divers said ed on the private Facebook group
and their coach were trapped in a and their protagonists have become (Thai Cave Rescue, directed by Baz they did not want to cave dive after “Girls That Scuba” on 18 September
remote cave. The world watched the stuff of legends. They have been Poonpiriya and Kevin Tancharoen). watching them. 2022. In her post, Kirkley said, “I held
with bated breath as an international featured in several documentaries my breath [throughout] the whole
team of cave explorers, cave diving (such as The Rescue, directed by Fascinating as the features have One of the posts that drew consider- movie. Now, I really don’t want to be
instructors, the Royal Thai Navy, and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi and Jimmy been to watch, they have drawn able attention was initiated by Vicki a cave diver.” That post inspired this
others worked around the clock to Chin), films (such as Thirteen Lives, strong emotional reactions from the Kirkley, an SDI Advanced Open Water article.
find and rescue the team. directed by Ron Howard) and, most wider diving community, on social diver with 70+ dives, which was post-
techtalk
What constitutes a tight space
tends to change as a diver’s
experience and comfort zone
expand. This swim-through (not a Cave Diving
cavern or cave) may look small
but offers ample space.
A few weeks later, I inter- “Caves are absolutely gor-

viewed Kirkley. She told me geous, and I love to watch vid-
that a personal connection eos and see them that way,”
convinced her to watch the said Kirkley. “But I have no
movie. “A friend of mine is the desire to actually dive through
AMAZON
sister of Major Hodges, one of a true cave . . . The thought of

the organisers of the rescue,” being underground, away from
said Kirkley. “I watched the saw. “I knew that divers did the the surface, with no quick way
movie because she recom- rescue, [but] I was surprised by out, terrifies me!”
mended it, even though his the realness of the set. It felt
character did not have a so real,” she said. Achieving Scotland-based CCR diver
AUDREY CUDEL
main role.” that degree of authenticity is a and PADI instructor Claire
compliment to the filmmakers, Simpson felt the same way. “I sump diving definitely does not Cave diving instructor and dive “While the flow is low in Mexico
Despite expecting the movie but it has deterred Kirkley even don’t think I would be keen on appeal [to me] anymore after centre owner Alessandra Figari and constant in Florida push-
to be full of suspense, Kirkley more from venturing into over- doing any of the tight stuff,” the films.” was among those comment- ing you out, what happened in
was not prepared for what she head environments. Simpson said, “and the idea of ing on Kirkley’s original post. the Thai cave is different,” said
Instead, the films reinforced She highlighted the differences Figari. “It is a dry cave which
some of Simpson’s previous between the caves near her filled up with water with a lot
ideas about cave diving. “[The base in Mexico and what of strength. Since our caves in
films] may have cemented we see on screen. “We dive Mexico are usually full of water,
the idea that some cave div- flooded caves where passages there is not a significant change
ing isn’t very glamorous or has lead from big to small, for sure, in conditions when it rains.”
lovely architecture,” she said. but nothing as shown in the
“In fact, it can be downright movie,” Figari said. Whilst the worst possible con-
unpleasant.” ditions came together for the
According to the pros

This is where cave diving pros
are quick to point out that
cave rescues are not the same
as “normal” cave dives, which
thousands of divers complete
every year. Robin Cuesta,
who is a cave explorer and
cave diving instructor based
in Sulawesi, Indonesia, pointed
out, “In the movie [Thirteen
Lives], we’re seeing the worst
AMAZON STUDIOS
of cave diving—low visibility,
narrow passages, high flow
YVONNE PRESS
and an unknown route.”
Stalagmite decorations in South Sulawesi, Indonesia
YVONNE PRESS
techtalk
Cave explorer and
instructor Robin Cuesta
gliding through lime-
stone formations in Cave Diving
South Sulawesi.
Thai cave rescue, they couldn’t Malta-based cave diver,

be further from what most explorer and instructor Audrey
cave divers do. “Cave diving Cudel agreed that the Thai
doesn’t require diving in nar- cave rescue did not resemble
row, silty, zero-vis, tight passag- “normal” cave diving. “Apart
es,” Cuesta said. “Even though from rare organisations such
we need to train for conditions as the UK Cave Diving Group
like that, you could spend your (CDG) performing cave res-
whole life as a cave diver div- cue exercises regularly, I have
ing in large openings with crys- not heard much about other
tal-clear visibility.” cave rescue programmes that
develop both
a mindset and
skillset to face
events such as
the Thai cave’s
one,” said
Cudel. “This is
a major differ-
ence between
what I do, what how to avoid putting them- Perception of caves that don’t have tight
I teach, and the selves in a hazardous situation Perhaps perception plays a squeezes.”
context of the and, worst case, how to rescue bigger role than previously
rescue. themselves. Such training and thought. “I do perceive cave Tight squeezes like the ones
all subsequent skills involved diving as much higher risk than we see in the Thai cave rescue
“I train myself are the outcome of past acci- other types of diving,” said documentaries, movies and
and my fel- dent analysis—Sheck Exley’s Simpson. However, she admit- series are also a dealbreaker
low students to masterpiece, Basic Cave ted that more recently, several for technical diver Eddie Adie,
answer the most Diving: A Blueprint for Survival, of her beliefs about cave div- who, like Simpson, spends most
efficient way, being the foundation of it. ing have been shifting. of his time in the colder waters
both psychologi- around Scotland. “Seeing the
cally and practi- “Cave diving in the context “I have long had this per- cave rescue in documenta-
cally, all possible of the Thai event requires that ception—which is recently ries and the movie has given
problems they such skillset is already mastered being challenged—that cave me a respect for the skills and
might encounter for one to learn how to com- diving is about getting into mental fortitude of those who
not to have to pose with unparalleled ele- small spaces,” said Simpson. choose to go cave diving,”
be rescued by ments and become a rescuer “That’s really not something said Adie.
AMAZON
anyone,” con- for others, understanding that that I would be able to do
tinued Cudel. [one] is putting [one’s] own life physically, but I am becoming Fellow technical diver and PADI
YVONNE PRESS
“In other words, willingly at risk,” said Cudel. aware that there are all sorts instructor Menno Verschuur Basic Cave Diving: A Blueprint
Cave diving allows divers access to spectacular for Survival, by Sheck Exley
environments, including sinkholes and cenotes.
techtalk
Many caves offer
divers wide open
spaces to explore
(right); Finding a new Cave Diving
passage leading to
a new exit is one of
the most rewarding
moments of cave
diving (below).
noted that the movies have shed it,” said Simpson. “I think, at the time, I
light on the skillset of cave divers and admitted that I wasn’t sure how it was
explorers: “They are bringing together done, but the kids would either have
elements of top-level diving, natural had to be taught to dive or be sedat-
explorations, planning and self-discov- ed. Neither option seemed possible.”
ery—pushing yourself to new limits that
you didn’t know your mind and body Simpson attended Eurotek 2018 to
could achieve.” see the entire Thai cave rescue team
recount their experiences on-stage,
Medical aspect including Australian anaesthetist and
For Simpson, who works as a consult- cave diver Richard Harris. “My heart
ant hand surgeon when she is not went out to Richard Harris at the
underwater, the medical aspect of the thought of the weight of responsibil-
rescue was the part that kept her on ity on his shoulders,” said Simpson. “It
the edge of her seat. “My colleagues was his recounting that brought me
know I’m a diver, so they were asking to tears.” YVONNE PRESS
loads of questions about how they did
Cave instructor Figari admitted that foundational skills, but he is also quick Trust in her instructor is high on
some divers may be put off cave to add that cave diving is not for Kirkley’s list, too. As she is progress-
diving, thinking it is too much or too everybody. “It is misleading to think ing through her rescue diver quali-
scary. But she also believes the mov- that cave diving is the ultimate goal fications, her sights are firmly set
ies showed a very positive side of the to accomplish when you start ventur- on becoming a dive professional.
sport. “Many people are admiring the ing into the technical diving realm,” For that goal, expanding skills mat-
job done by the cave rescuers and Cuesta said. “You can learn those ters. “As a future instructor, I feel it is
the work carried out by everyone skills in other courses also, as long as important to educate [oneself] as
involved,” said Figari. “I think it showed you pick quality training and don’t much as possible, in addition to div-
organisation, ability to plan and deter- rush into the certifications.” ing—safely and within your limits—as
mination. We teach all these things many different profiles as you can,”
when teaching a cave course.” Both Adie and Simpson mentioned said Kirkley.
how important quality training is for
Takeaways them. For Adie, that meant ventur- Perhaps there is a positive side to
Whether the documentaries, the mini- ing into overhead environments with the tentative reactions the Thai cave
series and the movie inspired respect, an instructor whom he could trust. rescue generated. Cuesta believes
instilled fear, or simply provided more Simpson admitted that she is com- cave diving is simply not for everyone.
information, all the divers I talked to ing around to the idea of trying “People that are put off by watching
for this article agreed that they could cave diving. “I think I would have the movie were probably not ready
benefit from developing their skills as to find a good fit of instructor,” she to get into cave diving,” he said. “In
cave divers do. said. “Knowing who that is isn’t easy a way, it is good that the movies and
without meeting and/or diving with documentaries are making them sec-
Instructor Cuesta agreed that cave them.” ond-guess their choices.”
diving greatly improves any diver’s
YVONNE PRESS
ROBIN CUESTA
techtalk Cave Diving
YVONNE PRESS
Rebreather Forum 4 to be held on Malta in April

We are pleased to While we work on organis- 2 were held in 1994 and 1996
announce that we will be ing the event, we have set up when rebreathers were just
Diver in a large chamber of a limestone cave in South
holding Rebreather Forum a preliminary website with the becoming available to our
Sulawesi, Indonesia (above); The author getting ready basic details and a place for community. Rebreather Fo-
for a cave dive in South Sulawesi (left) 4 (RF4), Thursday through you to express your interest rum 3 which was held in 2012
Saturday, 20-22 April 2023 and get on our mailing list for and was followed by the Re-
diving speciality. and Alessandra Figari for their at the old University of updates. We expect to have breathers and Scientific Diving
Cave diving is professional input. Thanks go to Malta campus in Valletta, registration up and running Workshop in 2015. Proceed-
[not that], nor Vicki Kirkley, Eddie Adie, Claire Malta, sponsored by DAN soon. And yes, there will be ings of these meetings are
a sport. It is a Simpson and Menno Verschuur diving—shipwreck diving to available as downloads on
privilege,” Cudel for sharing their views. Europe, DAN, PADI and be specific, with the help of the RF4 site.
said. “As such, Heritage Malta. our friends at RAID and Herit- Needless to say, we are
it holds risks that Yvonne Press is a technical age Malta! hoping to make RF4 a truly
not even the best diving IT and CCR instructor. The purpose of the scientific Please visit RebreatherForum. epic event that you won’t
training can over- Southeast Asia has been her and trade-only meeting is tech, check out our plans and want to miss. Thank you for
come and shall base for the past eight years. to advance the diving com- register your interest. If you are your interest. I look forward to
discourage those She became a cave diver munity’s state of knowledge interested in being a spon- seeing you in Malta!
who are not will- in Thailand in 2015, but only regarding rebreather technol- sor, and or exhibiting at RF4,
Cudel echoes those thoughts. ing to pay the cost.” Put sim- recently returned to cave div- ogy and its uses, with the goal please contact the organiser — Michael Menduno
“As a cave diver, explorer and ply—if you feel cave diving is ing. She is committed to spend- of improving rebreather div- directly. RF4 Organiser/Convener
instructor, I worry sometimes see- not for you, then don’t do it!  ing more time in overhead envi- ing safety and performance. RF4 will actually be the fifth
ing that the emphasis of media ronments in the coming year. Proceedings of the meeting such meeting held by the div- info@rebreatherforum.tech
coverage in general has trivial- The author wishes to thank Visit: darkhorizondiving.com will be published and made ing industry. The Rebreather mmenduno@daneurope.org
ised the practice into a random Audrey Cudel, Robin Cuesta publicly available. Forum, and Rebreather Forum M: +1 760 831 9494
photo
There are
many sizes of
O-rings. Make
sure you use
the correct
one!
Text and photos by Kate Jonker
The lack of proper O-ring care

and preparation are two of the
main causes of camera hous-
ing leaks. Underwater photo
pro and photography instructor
Kate Jonker offers advice and
tips to help avoid these prob-
lems, keeping your housing
(and hence, your camera) in
good shape.
Leak-Free Housing
When you prepare your camera 15 Steps to a
housing for diving, follow these impor-
tant steps to minimise the dreaded
housing leak!
Step 1: Prepare your housing, unhur-

ried, in a well-lit area, where you will
not be disturbed.
using the O-ring remover provided Step 3: After that, you need to check your housing properly. Do not hold Step 4: You should then check the
Clean the O-ring with your housing. Don’t pinch it with the O-ring for stray hairs, fluff or sand. the O-ring under a warm light to O-ring for tears, cuts or damage. Do
Step 2: First, you should remove the anything sharp that may damage it. These little things can damage your check it, this can heat the O-ring up not use the O-ring if it is damaged
O-ring from the door of the housing, O-ring and prevent it from sealing and cause it to stretch. in any way. Replace it with a new
photo
Prepare your housing in a quiet area
with good lighting (right); Some hous-
ings have double O-rings in their doors
(below); Clean the O-ring groove with Housing
an earbud covered with a lint-free cloth
or tissue (bottom left); Make sure you
use the correct O-ring grease and a
proper O-ring remover (bottom right).
O-ring
specifical-
ly made
for that
part of your
housing as not
all O-rings are of the lens-cleaning tissue. You
same size or diame- can also use a small,
ter. This means that clean, fluff-free make-up
if you use the wrong sponge instead.
O-ring, your housing Place the O-ring back in
will not seal! the housing
Step 5: Next, you must apply Step 7: Double-check the dust or hair has trapped between the door
O-ring grease to the O-ring. groove for stray hairs, fluff or magicked its and the housing.
It is best if you use the one supplied sand that might have found their way way back onto
with your housing. To do this, take there after you cleaned it. Double- the O-ring. Step 12: If you use sync
a small, rice-sized blob and dot it check the O-ring and place cords for your strobes,
Explore Gordon’s Bay

around the O-ring. Do not apply it into the groove. Step 10: You can then place double-
too much as this can your camera into the check that
make the O-ring swell! Step 8: It is impor- housing and check you have
Gently run the O-ring
between your forefinger
tant to remember
that you should
that it is properly
lined up in the hous-
screwed
them in
Cape Town, South Africa
and thumb to ensure it not stretch or twist ing. After that, close securely.
is evenly coated. Do the O-ring when the housing and lock
not pull or stretch putting it back. the door. As you gently Step 13:
the O-ring when Rather, gently roll close the door, check Test that all
you do this! it in slowly and that nothing is trapped camera buttons
make sure it is not between the O-ring are aligned with the hous-
Step 6: Once twisted. With that in and the housing / door. Common ing buttons, that the zoom
the O-ring is mind, if it is twisted, you culprits include housing straps and or focus gear is working and
clean and evenly can use the O-ring remover desiccant packets. that your strobes fire at the
coated, you can put to pull it up slightly so that it can proper time.
it into its groove. untwist itself. Do the necessary checks
However, before putting Step 11: After that, you must check Step 14: If your housing comes Underwater Photographer Friendly
the O-ring back, you should Step 9: When you are happy that that the housing is properly locked. with a vacuum pump, pull the Macro Life | Reefs | Kelp Forests | Seals
clean the groove with a clean ear- the O-ring is in place, give it a final You should also check that the vacuum, and then press all the
bud covered with lint-free cloth or once-over to check that no sand, O-ring has not popped out and is buttons, turn all the knobs, and www.indigoscuba.com info@indigoscuba.com
photo Housing
ENDLESS
Summer
MANTARAYBUFF DIVINGFLAGBUFF SHARKBUFF
NAUICAP-GREY
31029_CORAL NAUI-BLUE
31029_NAVY
NAUI-LS-CLOUD BLUE NAUICAP-OLIVE
Prepare your camera carefully for a stress-free dive.
press the levers. This is to make Additionally, place it inside a Follow these 15 steps to a leak-
HOODIEBS
sure all the O-rings on the but- clean Ziploc bag and keep it free underwater housing to take
tons and levers are sealing cor- inside your housing. You should your camera underwater without
rectly. If your vacuum stays intact ideally store it somewhere safe, stressing about it getting wet! 
for around 20 minutes, you are cool and dry.
ready to hit the water! Kate Jonker is an underwa-
It is important to remember Bonus tip ter photographer and dive
you would need to repeat For mirrorless or DSLR users: If you writer, underwater photogra-
these steps every time you want to change the port, you phy instructor, dive guide and NAUITECH-LS-GREY
open your housing! need to repeat Steps 2 to 9 with dive boat skipper based in
the O-ring of the port whenever South Africa who leads dive
When not using your housing you change it! Also, if your hous- trips across the globe. For more NAUITECH-GREEN HOODIE-TECH-NAVYS
Step 15: When you are not ing door or port has two O-rings, information regarding diving
using the camera for a while, remove, check, clean and and underwater photography in
remember to remove it from replace them one at a time so Cape Town, divers are welcome
the housing, clean it and
give it a bit of O-ring grease.
that they are returned to the
right groove.
to find her at: katejonker.com. STORE.NAUI.ORG
photo
news
SanDisk Professional Pro-G40 Rugged SSD
In case you worry about clumsy moments, or you just

want to make sure your data and images are safely
stored (while in the jungle or desert), the new Pro-
G40 rugged SSD by Western Digital could be worth
Edited by a look. According to the manufacturer, the SanDisk
Rico Besserdich Professional Pro-G40 is the company’s most rugged
SSD to date, including IP68 standard dust- and water-
resistance rating, 3m (9.8ft) drop resistance, and up
GoPro HERO11 Black to 1,800kg (4,000lb) crush resistance. In short, you can AOI UCL-09PRO and UCL-90PRO close-up lenses
and HERO11 Black Mini throw it from your balcony, allow a small elephant to
step on it, and then take it for a dive in the pool in order In order to shoot proper images of the tiniest critters, even a
The HERO11 Black and the new to clean it up. The SSD offers a dual-mode USB-C port good macro lens can easily reach its limits. When it comes to
HERO11 Black Mini are the new supporting Thunderbolt 3 (40Gbps) as well as USB serious magnification, a close-up lens can deliver. Standard
action-cam flagships of GoPro. The 3.2 Gen 2 (10Gbps) connections. Read speed values are usually +5 and +10 diopters, sometimes with the
most interesting feature appears goes up to 2700MB/s and write speeds option to stack several close-up lenses. The UCL-90PRO and
to be the new sensor, which is up to 1900MB/s when connected the UCL-09PRO by AOI are depth-rated to 60m (200ft) and
capable of capturing 5.3K/60p via Thunderbolt 3. The SanDisk provide a magnification of +18.5 diopters (UCL-90PRO) or
10-bit video. This counts for both mod- Professional Pro-G40 SSD is +12.5 diopters (UCL-09PRO). Standard 67mm threads allow
els. The Black Mini is smaller in size and available in two versions: 1TB the lenses to be mounted to most housings, including the
lacks front and rear screens but offers the same and 2TB storage capacities. new AOI housing for the OM System OM-1. Each
new powerful sensor that features 27MP of resolution, with a sort westerndigital.com lens comes with a pouch as well as front and
of unusual aspect ratio of 8:7. However, this aspect ratio can be rear lens caps. aoi-uw.com
cropped in-camera to match ideal aspect ratio requirements of
Instagram, TikTok and other social media platforms. Considering
the improvement from the former 23 MP resolution to the current
27MP resolution, in-camera cropping would still leave sufficient Seacam housing
image material to work with, not just on TikTok. The newest ver- for Leica SL2/SL2-S
sion of HyperSmooth (GoPro’s own image stabilization software)
and the company’s Enduro battery are included as standard. Owning a Leica is not
The HERO11 Black is compatible with all accessories that just about owning a qual-
were offered with its predecessor. gopro.com ity camera, it is living a
philosophy only Leica fans
can understand. Whilst the high
quality is unquestionable, the
investment of buying a Leica truly
Paralenz Vaquita 2nd Gen makes keen underwater photographers
The new features included in the 2nd Gen Vaquita think twice about how to keep their “baby”
comprise an updated Auto-DCC, which stands for safe. Seacam is taking care of such concerns. The
Automatic Depth-Controlled Color Correction, that Seacam SL2/SL2-S housing is made from a saltwater-
colour corrects footage recorded in blue or green proof light metal alloy, which is double-hardened and anod-
water and adjusts it to be more natural looking. It ized. The two housing shells (main housing and backplate)
is also equipped with a new ultra-wide 150° lens, are secured with a titanium fastening system. As expected,
and a newly added integrated GPS sensor, Depth the housing provides full control over all of the camera
and Temperature Dive Log, which makes it possi- functions. The housing can be configured with S6 or N5
ble for divers to share their dive footage as pins on bulkheads for strobe cables, with the option of adding an
TheOceanBase interactive map available in the HDMI bulkhead and a vacuum system. Seacam’s own leak
Paralenz App. Waterproof down to 350m (1150ft) detector comes standard. As with other Seacam housings it
without extra housing. All camera settings are fully is depth-rated to 80m (260ft), with the option of customisation
adjustable underwater. Paralenz.com for operation in deeper waters upon request. seacam.com
Mariko Kusumoto
P O R T F O L I O
Mariko Kusumoto
Detail of Sea Garden 1,

by Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester and wood,
13.5 x 24in (right)
Seabed, by
Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester, 15 x 20in
(previous page)
Sunken Treasure,
by Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester, 12 x 12in (below)
Interview by Gunild Symes

Photos courtesy of Mariko Kusumoto
Originally from Japan, artist Mariko

Kusumoto, now based in the United
States, creates delicate, translucent,
ethereal, textile sculptures and wear-
able art featuring colorful reef coral
forms in beautiful compositions, which
have been shown in Europe, Asia and
the Americas. X-Ray Mag interviewed
the artist to learn more about her crea-
tive process and perspectives.
X-RAY MAG: Tell us about yourself, your back-

ground and how you became an artist.
MK: I was born and raised in Japan. Where

I grew up in a 400-year-old temple, I was
always surrounded by the beauty of
nature. As a child, I spent a lot of time out-
side, especially in the temple’s graveyard,
playing with dirt, insects, plants, etc. I was
pretty much a nature girl. I was always
Grass Glass, by Mariko Kusumoto. Polyester, 14 x 5in

Seascape 1 necklace, by Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester, 12 x 13 x 5in (right). This necklace is in
the permanent collection of the Renwick Gallery
of the Smithsonian American Art Museum. Mariko Kusumoto
Jellyfish 1 pin, by
Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester and sterling
silver, 2 x 1in (right)
Red Coral brooch,

by Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester, 5 x 5 x 2in
(below)
making things with whatever materials After I graduated from art college in ity and ambiguity are the essential
were available, such as my mother’s Japan, I relocated to the United States parts of my work, and the fabric can
fabrics, paper and plants. I also drew. I and attended graduate school at an achieve these elements.
have always had a creative inclination. arts university. Now, I live and work in I am interested in nature in general,
When I was 15, I decided to become Massachusetts. but after I looked closer at marine life,
an artist, so I went to a secondary I realized that my artistic style totally fit-
school that offered a fine art major. X-RAY MAG: Why marine life and ted an ocean theme.
There, I gained knowledge about themes inspired by the sea? How did
several forms of art, including design, you come to these themes and how X-RAY MAG: Who or what has inspired
sculpture and painting, and I also stud- did you develop your style of sculpture? you and your artwork and why?
ied art history. I had a terrific experi-
ence there, and after that I attended MK: I like the translucency and the MK: Fabric itself is incredibly inspiring to
an art college. So, I was determined to lightness of the type of fabric I use. The me. In my daily life, encountering vari-
be an artist from an early age. sensibility, subtlety, ethereality, fragil- ous kinds of materials is really important
Mariko Kusumoto
Sea Garden 2, by
Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester, 15 x
20 in (right)
Detail of Anemone,
by Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester and wood,
9 x 19.5in (far right)
Aqua Mushroom Coral

brooch, by Mariko
Kusumoto. Polyester
fabric, 3 x 3in (below)
to me. I occasionally come hint at fragility, subtlety, etc. ethereal atmospheres.
across fabrics that mesmerize Since metal, the material I In addition to the fabric
me, draw me in, and spark previously worked with solely itself, the creative process
my creativity. for many years, is fundamen- inspires and motivates me. I X-RAY MAG: What is your Then, I remove the mold
Being commonplace, fab- tally the opposite of fabric, spend half my creative time artistic method or creative after it has cooled down,
ric is a familiar material we I create fabric pieces that experimenting with things. At process? and now the shape of the
see every day. Even while reflect my intense interest in times, there is a breath-taking fabric is permanent. It is a
the word “fabric” seems sim- the material itself. I try to high- moment during this process. MK: I use different kinds of very simple technique.
ple enough, there are a wide light the fabric’s natural quali- I take note of these intuitive techniques, but mainly, I use
variety of fabrics, each hav- ties and attractiveness. I give discoveries, using these happy a heat-setting process. This X-RAY MAG: What is your rela-
ing distinctive qualities that it a new identity by reshap- accidents as the founda- technique makes the shapes tionship to the underwater
can elicit a range of experi- ing it into three-dimensional tion for fresh ideas and build permanent in synthetic fiber world and coral reefs? In your
ences or emotions. There sculptures, using a heat-set- from there. I have not even when it is heated to a cer- relationship with reefs and
are materials that evoke the ting procedure. For instance, scratched the surface of what tain temperature. I use differ- the sea, where have you had
mysterious or the ethereal, I enjoy the translucent nature I might do with fabric. So, I ent kinds of molds to create your favorite experiences?
those that inspire tranquillity, of fabric, because it enables continue to explore and dis- those shapes.
those that give one a feeling me to work with layers, add- cover the limitless potential of First, I wrap the mold with MK: I have never done
of cool dampness, those that ing or removing components the materials I work with. fabric, and then I put it in scuba diving nor have I had
have a soothing fluffiness, or to create fun, enigmatic and the oven for 20 minutes. any experiences with under-
Uni brooch, by
Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester, brass
and gesso,
2.5 x 3.5in (left)
Seascape, wall
piece by Mariko
Kusumoto. Poly
ester 7 x 7 x 3in
(far left). This work
is featured on the
cover of UK band
Low Island’s sec-
ond album, “Life
in Miniature.”
Untitled, by
Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester, 5 x 4 x
3in (below)
water life, unfortunately. Hopefully, I will anything about what was down there. I that have not been discovered yet. The
have the chance to explore and see the could not believe what I was watching— ocean is full of mysteries, and I was imme-
underwater world in real life in the future. bizarre and very beautiful sea creatures diately drawn to that world.
The beginning of my interest in marine that I had never seen before. I thought
life was when I by chance watched a they were “artwork” in and of themselves. X-RAY MAG: What are your thoughts on
documentary film about the deep ocean. Not only that, but I was also surprised to coral reef conservation and how does
I was very shocked that I did not know learn that there were still so many things your artwork relate to these issues?
Mariko Kusumoto
Blue Jewel Tako pin, by

Mariko Kusumoto. Polyester
and sterling silver, 1 x 1.75in
(left)
Coral necklace, by Mariko

Kusumoto. Polyester fabric,
10in diameter x 3in (far left)
Pink Coral with Kurage

brooch, by Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester, 4 x 3.5 x 2in (bottom
left)
MK: Some of my pieces are in the

permanent collection of art muse-
ums. Museums do the best job of
preserving artwork in their well-
equipped environments. From that
point of view, long-lasting materials
like plastic might be a good material
for preservation purposes, and I often
use synthetic fiber such as polyester
and nylon fabric, which are essen-
tially plastic. However, when plastic
is treated as a disposable material
and its waste spreads everywhere, it
becomes harmful and a threat to the
environment and living things.
While I create a lot of sculptures,
I also create wearable pieces that
have small components. So, in order
to minimize waste, I save all the
scraps of fabric left over from larger
artworks and use them for creating
tiny parts.
To me, synthetic fiber is not a dispos-
able material, in the way I use it. I do
Pink Bubble necklace, by Mariko Kusumoto. Polyester, 11 x 9 x 3in (above)
Mariko Kusumoto
Sea Creature
brooch, by Mariko
Kusumoto. Polyester,
5.5 x 3 x 5.5in
Seascape 2 neck-
lace, by Mariko
Kusumoto. Polyester,
12 x 13 x 4.5in (left)
my best to bring plastic to a higher level. I do strive to buy much of my materials ocean and coral reef conservation, but
Meanwhile, I try to do what I can for from second-hand thrift stores, and not at least what I can do through my work
the environment in my daily life. I do not just fabric stores. I love going to thrift shops is to show my discoveries and interpreta-
buy take-out food very often because and flea markets where I look for second- tion of the beauty of marine life and pro-
it usually comes in plastic containers. I hand fabrics. Usually, they are fabric rem- mote awareness of this amazing world.
also use chemical-free products for the nants, curtains, clothes, scarves, etc, and I
yard and laundry, and I compost leftover use them to create my pieces. X-RAY MAG: What are the challenges or
food, reuse bags, etc. benefits of being an artist in the world
However, I still have guilt, because I use X-RAY MAG: Would you consider this today? Any thoughts or advice for aspir-
plastic in my work—it does not matter how “upcycling,” and how so? ing artists in ocean arts?
minimal it is. And I cannot seem to avoid
using plastic, such as the packing tape MK: I add value to these second-hand MK: Before the internet, artists were lim-
used to pack and ship my pieces, the fabrics, so I would say “upcycling” is ited in how much of the world they could
face masks worn at work, the polyester- accurate. However, sometimes I have a expose their work to because they had
filled cushions and comforters I sleep with, hard time finding what I am looking for, to rely on galleries, magazines, etc. But
and most of the garbage inside my trash so I end up buying some new fabric. now artists can expose audiences, glob-
bags is unrecyclable plastic wrapping and However, I hope the use of biodegrad- ally, to their work through social media,
packaging from groceries, etc. It seems able materials takes over completely in which is an amazing tool for promotion.
like our lives cannot exist without some the future, although it might be a long There is no reason not to make use of it.
plastic, and it is hard to imagine how peo- time before it becomes widespread. So, I encourage aspiring artists to use this
ple could survive without it in the old days. My creations may not directly relate to tool and expose as many people to their
Sea Breeze necklace (22in), by Mariko Kusumoto. Polyester, 10 x 10 x 2in
Mariko Kusumoto
Seascape necklace,
by Mariko Kusumoto.
Polyester and stainless steel,
11 x 6.5in. Permanent col-
lection of the Victoria and
Albert Museum in London
(right)
Organic Sounds, by Mariko

Kusumoto. Polyester, 13 x
15in. Permanent collection
of the Museum of Fine Arts
in Boston (far right)
work as they can. There

are lots of possibilities in
front of us.
X-RAY MAG: What is the

message or experience
you want viewers of your
artwork to have or understand? How X-RAY MAG: Several of your beauti-
do people respond to your artworks? ful artworks of coral forms are now
included in the permanent collec-
The thing I like about my work is that tions of museums such as the Victoria
it is not hard to understand. I want to and Albert Museum in London, the
create something that is simply beauti- Renwick Gallery of the Smithsonian
ful, which speaks directly to the viewer, American Art Museum in Washington,
regardless of their age, race, gender, DC, the Museum of Fine Arts in
etc. I want the pieces to be able to Boston, and the Decorative Arts
stand up by themselves, without need- Museum in Paris. Please tell us how
ing explanation. this came about.
“Simply beautiful” may sound
straightforward and easy to say, but MK: My marine theme pieces seem
it is not necessarily easy to do, I think. to be very popular. One museum
But, needless to say, it is the most curator contacted me directly and
powerful and universal thing. I am requested me to make coral forms,
always surprised by how strongly peo- and other museums purchased my
ple react to my work. work through the galleries. Also, I used
Besides sculpture, I also create wear- to have my production pieces at the
able pieces. The owners of my work Museum of Modern Art store in New
often say that people always talk to York. Jean Paul Gaultier discovered permanent collection of Museum of MK: I will have an exhibition at the For more information, please
them whenever they wear my pieces. my work and it led to a collabora- Fine Arts in Boston. Morikami Museum and Japanese visit the artist’s website at:
It may just be an object, but I like the tion for his Spring/Summer 2019 Paris Gardens in Florida in the fall of 2023, marikokusumoto.com or follow on
way that it connects people. It is inter- Fashion Week show. I contributed to X-RAY MAG: What are your upcoming where I will be showing both sculp- Facebook @MarikoKusumotoArt or
esting to see how the object positively 18 of the 63 looks in the show, and projects, art courses or events? tures and wearable pieces.  Instagram @MarikoKusumoto.
affects people’s emotions and minds. one of the looks became part of the

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Scuba Confidential – Out of Control :: Middle Ear Problems :: Mariko Kusumoto Portfolio

PUBLISHER, MANAGING EDITOR SECTION EDITORS

National Marine Sanctuary system celebrates

GREG MCFALL, GRAY'S REEF NMS, NOS, NOAA / FLICKR / CC BY 2.0

The proposed Chu- County to Point Conception in Santa

TANE SINCLAIR-TAYLOR / SIMON FRASER UNIVERSITY / FLICKR / CC BY 2.0

Temperature and habitat changes have impacted

Diving Talks 2022 – report

message to the Titanic on 15 commander, died. were unidentified, but the

WWI German sub located off the US Coast

BANGOR UNIVERSITY / PROVIDED BY EUREKALERT

Diving wears on artificial reefs

SAVE THE DATE

Sipadan Island, Malaysia CMY

Tighter restrictions for visiting Sipadan

Diver in swim-through at Geronisos Island (above and top left)

In the far corner of Europe, in wandering ancient streets while

A higher level of benefits to meet the needs

Diving previous evening. It was already 2019 to become an artificial

Text and photos

Elpida was sunk on 7 December

International Reservations: +599 717 5080

Divers on the Zenobia wreck (above); Diver at the huge propeller of

Diver with sunken statue at

Divers with green sea

Lelle Malmström on Lady Thetis (top

In the bay of Limassol, there

Grapes for wine on the vine

Into the green valleys

Fried halloumi (left) drizzled with wine syrup (top

Mountain trek and a dam with

covered with a mix

Malta — A Wartime Legacy

Diver on the wreck of SS Polynesien, Malta (above and previous page)

The tiny Mediterranean country scooter surged to life, power-

THIS PAGE: The wreck of a German

strophic explosion. Ammunition cases

THIS PAGE: Scenes from the wreck of the British submarine

with little chance of any crew mem- dive or ascent.

The Pat Tillman Foundation

Text and photos by Steve Jones

Beaufighter: The hardy twin-

Blenheim Bomber: Shot down by

HMS Hellespont: A paddle

HMS Maori: A destroyer that

The Penghu Islands, an archi- people. Taiwan offers some very

Penghu's unique geological formations of

Map of Penghu Islands in Taiwan

Oriental sweetlips at Wolf East (above);

“This is the first comprehensive guide to

MIKE THOMAS / FLICKR / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Mussels cover the superstruc-

Many intriguing creatures

Emperor shrimp riding on the back of a many-lobed Ceratosoma nudibranch,

Bright Nudibranchs some feeding on sponges,

Scorpianfish at Sponges Wall in Roatan,

Rhinopias at Pasir Hitam (Black Sand) in

Rhinopias at Pasir Hitam (Black

Scorpionfishes guide did not point them

Photo 1. Great white shark, Guadalupe Island, Mexico (above). Gear:

Great White, Silvertip & Bull Sharks that was suspend-

Jorunna parva nudi-

Photo 3. Spiny lobster on reef

Photo 4. Smiling lemon shark (far