M06 Surfaces For Finishing Works

FINISHING CONSTRUCTION
WORKS
SHORT TERM
Based on March 2022, Curriculum Version 1
Module Title: Preparing Surfaces for finishing Works
Module code: EIS FCW1 06 1122

Nominal duration: 100Hour
Prepared by: Jigjiga Polytechnic College

November, 2022
Jigjiga, Ethiopia
Table of Contents
Acknowledgment ........................................................................................................................... 5
Acronym......................................................................................................................................... 6
Introduction to the Module .......................................................................................................... 7
Unit one: Plan and prepare ............................................................................................... 8
1.1 Work instructions ............................................................................................................ 9
1.2.Following Safety plans and policies................................................................................ 9
1.2.1 Personal protective equipment (PPE) ......................................................................... 10
1.3.Identifying Implementing signage ................................................................................ 14
1.3.1 Implementing signage Barricading Requirements ..................................................... 14
1.3.2 Safety Signage Requirements..................................................................................... 14
1.4 Selecting tools and equipment....................................................................................... 16
1.4.1 Measuring and Levelling Hand Tools ........................................................................ 16
1.5.Calculating Material quantity ........................................................................................ 20
1.6 Prepare materials and safely handled ........................................................................... 29
1.6.1 Applying safe handling techniques ............................................................................ 29
1.7. Identifying Environmental protection .......................................................................... 31
Self-Check -1 ....................................................................................................................... 34
OPERATION TITLE: -. ...................................................................................................... 35
LAP Test 1: - ....................................................................................................................... 37
Unit Two:-Preparing materials for tiling application .................................................... 38
2.1. Identify materials for tiling application ........................................................................ 38
2.2.1 Types of tiles .............................................................................................................. 38
2.2.2 Cement bonded tiles and slabs ................................................................................... 42
2.2 Selecting finishing materials, ...................................................................................... 42
2.2.1 Production of cement ................................................................................................. 42
2.2.2 Kinds of cement ......................................................................................................... 44
Self-Check -2 ....................................................................................................................... 47
Operation sheet -2 ............................................................................................................... 48
Page 2 of 96 Jigjiga Polytechnic Preparing Surfaces for finishing Works Version -1
Colege November 2022
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Unit Three: Prepare surface............................................................................................. 49
3.1 Prepare site inspection ................................................................................................... 50
3.1.2 Quality Inspections ..................................................................................................... 50
3.1.3 Building Regulation Compliance Inspections ............................................................ 50
3.1.4 When Does A Prepare Site Inspection Occur? ......................................................... 51
3.2 Remove hazards and obstructions ................................................................................. 52
3.2.1 Construction site hazards: .......................................................................................... 52
3.2.2 Review Company's Safety Record ............................................................................. 53
3.2.3 Encourage Reporting of Hazards ............................................................................... 53
3.2,4 Conduct Risk Assessment .......................................................................................... 53
3.2.5 Designate Workplace Safety Officials ....................................................................... 53
3.2.6 Schedule Voluntary Safety Inspection ....................................................................... 54
3.3 Selecting surface preparation tools. .............................................................................. 55
3.2 Set up surface preparation tools .................................................................................... 57
3.4 Determine patching method ........................................................................................ 62
3.4.1 How to Repair Plaster Walls ...................................................................................... 62
3.5 Select patching materials ........................................................................................... 69
3.6 using appropriate material for application method ....................................................... 71
3.6.1 Preparation background.............................................................................................. 71
3.7 Clean surface of material ............................................................................................... 76
3.7.1 Steps for brushing Surface Preparation ...................................................................... 76
3.8 Selecting patching area .................................................................................................. 83
Self-Check -3 ....................................................................................................................... 88
Operation Sheet -3 .............................................................................................................. 89
LAP Test ............................................................................................................................. 89
Unit Four: Prepare underlay and sheeting substrate ................................................... 90
4.1.Supervision and assist instructions ............................................................................. 91
4.2.1 Construction Supervision Principles .......................................................................... 92
4.2 Approving substrate surface finishing ........................................................................... 94
4.2.1 Surface Preparation .................................................................................................... 94
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4.2.2 Surface preparations for the adherents ....................................................................... 94
4.3.Prepare underlay and sheeting substrates ...................................................................... 95
4.3.1 PATCHING, LEVELING, RE-PITCHING ................................................................. 95
4.3.2 Surface preparation .................................................................................................... 95
4.3.3 Techniques of preparing surfaces ............................................................................... 96
Self-Check -4 ....................................................................................................................... 99
OPERATION SHEET -4 ................................................................................................... 99
Referance .......................................................................................................................... 101

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Acknowledgment
Ministry of Labor and Skills wish to extend thanks and appreciation to the many
representatives of TVET instructors and respective industry experts who donated their time and
expertise to the development of this Teaching, Training and Learning Materials (TTLM).

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Acronym
OHS = Occupational Health Standard
PPE = Personal Safety Equipment
MSDS = Material Safety Data Sheet
TTLM = Teaching, Training and Learning Materials
HSSE= Health & Safety and Social & Environmental
PM= Project Management
PMI= Project Management and Infrastructure

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Introduction to the Module
The Preparing Surfaces for finishing Works helps to know how to Plan and preparing; how to
Preparing materials for tiling application to Preparing surface for plastering wall and floor how
to Prepare underlay and sheeting substrate in finishing construction field.
This module covers skill, knowledge and attitude requires to carryout pointing works in different
background.
This module is designed to meet the industry requirement under the Finishing construction work
occupational standard, particularly for the unit of competency: Preparing Surfaces for finishing
Works
This module covers the units:

 Plan and prepare
 Prepare materials
 Prepare surface
 Prepare underlay and sheeting substrate
Learning Objective of the Module
 Plan and preparing
 Preparing materials for tiling application
 Preparing surface for plastering wall and floor
 Prepare underlay and sheeting substrate
Module Instruction
For effective use this modules trainees are expected to follow the following module instruction:
1. Read the information written in each unit
2. Accomplish the Self-checks at the end of each unit
3. Perform Operation Sheets which were provided at the end of units
4. Do the ―LAP test‖ giver at the end of each unit and
5. Read the identified reference book for Examples and exercise

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Unit one: Plan and prepare
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics
Work instructions.
 OHS Following Safety

 Identifying Implementing signage
 Selecting tools and equipment.
 Calculating Material quantity
 Prepare materials and safely handled
 environmental protection
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the above topic..
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
 Identify Work instructions, including plans and specifications.
 Follow safety requirements accordance with safety plans and policies

 Identifying and implementing signage and barricade requirements
 Select tools and equipment
 Calculate material quantity requirements with plans and/or specifications
 Preparing materials and safely handled
 Identify for the Environmental protection.

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1.1 Work instructions
Where work is done, mistakes are made. Human errors account for 9 out of 10 incidents in the
workplace. These errors result in loss of production, damage to equipment, and injuries. This
costs industries billions per year and with work getting more and more complex this is a growing
pain.
A lot of the mistakes in the workplace can be avoided with clearer work instructions that ensure
quicker, better and safer performance of tasks. Also, it gives greater flexibility and ensures
standardization of output.
Work instructions have been around for quite some time, but their effectiveness is limited due to
the form (paper-based), structure (process-oriented), and content (text). We have collected 10
tips for you to start creating better work instructions.
Work instructions are meant to help workers perform their jobs. However, all too often we
encounter instructions that don‘t focus on that goal at all. They are designed to show compliance
with standards. They are made for safety auditors. Created by engineers showing off their
technical understanding. Of course, it is important to be compliant, but if you really want your
work instructions to be effective you need to start with the employee:
1.2. Following Safety plans and policies

Safety (OHS) is to be in accordance with state or territory legislation, regulations, codes of
practice, organizational safety policies and procedures, and project safety plan and may include:
 Emergency procedures, including emergency shutdown and stopping, extinguishing fires,

organizational first aid requirements and evacuation
 Handling of materials
 Hazard control
 Hazardous materials and substances
 Safe operating procedures, including the conduct of operational risk assessment and
treatments associated with:
 Traffic control
 Work site visitors and the public
 Working at heights

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 Working in proximity to others
 Organizational first aid
 Personal protective clothing and equipment prescribed under legislation, regulations and
workplace policies and practices
 Use of firefighting equipment
 Use of tools and equipment
 Workplace environment and safety.
1.2.1 Personal protective equipment (PPE)
Why do you need PPE?

The working conditions in construction are in most cases such that, despite all preventive
measures in project planning and work design, some personal protective equipment
(PPE), such as a helmet, hearing and eye protection, boots and gloves, is needed to
protect workers. However, there are disadvantages in using PPE:
 Wearing some forms of PPE may involve discomfort to the user and slow down the work.
 Extra supervision is called for to see that PPE is worn.
 PPE costs money.
Wherever possible, it is better to try to eliminate the hazard rather than providing PPE to
guard against it.
Some PPE such as safety helmets and footwear should be used on all construction sites.
The need for other PPE will depend on the sort of work you do. Remember, too, that
proper work clothes will provide protection for the skin.
a. Head protection
Falling objects, overhead loads and sharp projections are to be found everywhere on
construction sites. A small tool or bolt falling from 10 or 20 m high can cause serious
injuries or even death if it strikes an unprotected head. Head injuries often occur when
moving and working in a bent position, or when arising from such a position.
Safety helmets protect the head effectively against most of these hazards, and you should
wear a helmet whenever you are on site and particularly when you are in an area where
overhead work is going on. These areas, known as ―hard-hat areas‖, should be clearly
marked with safety signs at entrances and other suitable places see the following figure.
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The same rule applies to managers, supervisors and visitors. Only safety helmets which
have been tested to national or international standards should be used. A chin-strap on the
helmet prevents it from failing off and should be used when appropriate.
b. Foot protection
Foot injuries fall into two broad types: those due to penetration of the sole by nails which
have not been knocked down or removed, and those due to crushing by falling materials,
which can be minimized by wearing protective footwear. The type of safety shoes or
boots to be used will depend on the nature of the work (e.g. the presence of ground water
on construction sites), but all safety footwear should have an impenetrable sole and
uppers with a steel toe-cap
There are many types of safety footwear now available such as:-
 light, low-cut leather safety shoes for climbing jobs;
 Normal safety shoes or boots for heavy-duty work;
 Rubber or plastic safety wellingtons or gumboots which provide protection against
corrosive substances, chemicals and water.
c. Hand and skin protection
Hands are extremely vulnerable to accidental injury, and in construction more injuries are caused
to hands and wrists than to any other part of the body. Open wounds, abrasions, fractures,
dislocations, strains, amputations and burns occur. They are largely preventable by better manual
handling techniques and equipment, and by wearing suitable hand protection such as protective
gloves and gauntlets.
Among the common hazardous tasks where hand protection should be provided are:
 operations involving contact with rough, sharp or jagged surfaces;
 contact with or splashes from hot, corrosive or toxic substances such as bitumen and
resins;
 Working with vibratory machines such as pneumatic drills where some cushioning of the
vibrations is desirable;
 Electrical work in humid and cold weather. Skin trouble is common in the construction
industry.
Contact dermatitis is the commonest type of skin disease. It feels itchy and looks red, scaly and
cracked, and can become so bad that it affects your ability to continue working. Wet cement is
one of the main skin hazards, but other substances include tar and pitch, which can cause skin
cancer after prolonged exposure, paint thinners, acids for masonry cleaning and epoxy resins. In
addition to gloves, use barrier creams and wear long-sleeved shirts, full-length trousers and
rubber boots.
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d. Eye protection
In industry many eye injuries occur as a result of flying material, dust or radiation when the
following jobs are being carried out:
 Breaking, cutting, drilling, dressing or laying of stone, concrete and brickwork with hand
or power tools;
 Chipping and dressing painted or corroded surfaces;
 Cutting off or cutting out cold rivets and bolts;
 Dry grinding of surfaces with power grinders;
 Welding and cutting of metals.
In some industrial processes there may also be a risk from the spillage, leakage or
splashing of hot or corrosive liquids.
Some of these hazards can be removed permanently by proper machine guarding, exhaust
ventilation or work design. For many hazards, for example, stone cutting or dressing, personal
eye protection (goggles, safety glasses or shields) is the only practical solution. Sometimes
workers are aware of the danger they run and the consequences if their eyes are damaged, but do
not wear eye protection. This is because the type chosen interferes with vision or is
uncomfortable to wear, or is not immediately at hand when needed.
Respirator protection
On construction sites there are often tasks where harmful dust, mist or gas may be present, such
as:
 Rock crushing and handling;
 Sandblasting;
 Dismantling buildings containing asbestos insulation;
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 Welding or cutting materials with coatings containing zinc, lead, nickel or cadmium;
 paint spraying;
 Blasting.

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1.3. Identifying Implementing signage
1.3.1 Implementing signage Barricading Requirements
Barricading is one of the risk control measures used to protect personnel from hazard such as:
• Being struck by falling objects, material movements or plant;
• Fall from height, including falling into open excavations or penetrations;
• Fall from unprotected edges (e.g. removed flooring, walkways, stairs and handrails);
• Exposure to hazardous substances, process or activities;
• Unauthorized entry into a confined space or other restricted work areas;
• Any potentially hazardous work processes, such as hot works, demolition work, scaffolding,
radiation work and work involving asbestos.
Barricading may also be used as part of incident management and emergency response
procedures
1.3.2 Safety Signage Requirements
Safety signs are erected to warn workers or the public of specific hazards and to communicate
necessary precautionary measures and emergency actions. Safety signage is required for:
• Construction sites;
• confined spaces;
• Asbestos;
• Hazardous areas;
• Hazardous chemicals;
• Site specific Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) requirements;
• Fire protection equipment;
• Emergency and first aid information;
• Emergency eyewash shower; and
• Traffic management and pedestrian control.

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 Accident Prevention Tags
An accident prevention tag is a miniature sign on card, paper, pasteboard or similar
temporary or semi-permanent material, which can be attached to plant, equipment or other
objects for the purpose of imposing a regulatory requirement, or for advising or informing
users about some safety aspect of the item. For details on the use of these
ASSOCIATED DOCUMENTS
• General Safety Controls Directive
• Hazardous Chemicals Management Procedure
• Working at Height Procedure
• Trenching and Excavation Procedure
• Confined Space Entry Procedure
• Asbestos Management Procedure
• Workplace Risk Assessment Procedure.
• Lockout and Tag out Procedure
• First Aid Procedure
• People Managers Toolkit – Barricading and Safety Signage
Toolkits provide practical guidance, useful tools and information for people managers to
effectively manage the risks associated with staff working with, around or on Barricading and
Safety Signage tags,

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1.4 Selecting tools and equipment
There are several type tools used by a Mason. Hand tools, in general, ease the work and
accelerates the process, improves quality of work significantly and they are very important for
everybody who wants to do decent work so that keep tools in perfect order. In addition tools
and equipment also represents highly valued assets. For this reasons it is crucial necessary to
handle tools and equipment with extra care. That means cleaning after use, storing neatly,
slightly greasing if necessary and regular maintenance.
Carefully handled hand tools are safe tools!
Figure 4.1 safety tag
1.4.1 Measuring and Levelling Hand Tools
Measuring Hand tools and instruments are precise devices but needed to be handled with extra
care, e.g. Spirit level should be checked every day before use!
Spirit level
It is used to control the horizontal and vertical alignment of wall surface and edges. The length
is at least 80 to 120cm long. It is made of metal, synthetic material or wood. It has two
measuring bubbles: one is located at mid length is used to check horizontal positions. While
the second one, at the end, is used to check vertical position. This tool requires always to be
handled with care and needs to be checked from time to time weather it is still working
accurate or not.
Figure 4.2 sprit level

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Plumb bob
A plum bob is made of metal. When suspended from a vertically attached string, it is employed
to check the vertical alignment of corners and surface of walls. A freely hanging plumb bob
gives exactly the vertical alignment, because any undisturbed freely hanging mass points to the
centre of the earth.Plumb bob for vertical marking & leveling
Figure 4. 3 plumb bob

Alignment string /masons’ line/ Alignment string /mason line/, sometimes called, Fish line, is
a rope used to transfer horizontal & vertical alignments or lines, i.e., use to mark
base line on the floor or vertical point alignments of wall. In other words, it is used to align the
walling blocks, (stone, bricks, concrete blocks, hydra form etc). It is available in different
thickness & sizes in the market.
Fig , 4.4 Mason line/alignment string
Graphite Pencil This is used for marking in wall

construction. It is specially produced for this purpose in
such a way that it will not wear out fast. fig 4. 5 pencil
Folding meter/rule-2/ for measuring length in wall construction, it is convenient to use rigid
scales. Such a measuring scale/ folding rule/ is made of 20cm separate wooden pieces joined
together by pins. The scale has subdivisions in cm and mm.
Folding meter
Figure; 4. 6 folding meter

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Hose level
It is a transparent PVC hose. It is used to transfer or mark vertical levels on surface of wall
when it is filled with water, but without any air bubbles. The water level in each end of the
hose is equal. It is an instrument to mark equal levels on site. It is very accurate but not
eases to handle.
Fig 4.7 Hose level to transfer meter score

Straight edge/Level/
This is a perfectly straight metal/aluminium/ with all long and short edges parallel to its
centreline. It is employed to check straight alignments of walls. Straight edge Its
length ranges from 2m up to 4m. Together with the sprit level, it can be used to bridge over
the point to be checked. A straight edge/Level/ can also be made from a wooden plank with
perfectly parallel edges.
Angle / Try square

It is used to measure a right angle (90º) of a corner. Used in laying masonry units or blocks at
corners of masonry wall.
Figure 4. 8 Try square
Measuring tape
Tape is used to measure dimensions of building parts and distances in site. It is manufactured
from steel, plastic or fibre in lengths of 1m, 2m, 3m, 5m, 30m, etc. and 50m. In using tapes
for measurements, the two points should be aligned perfectly. In addition, when long
horizontal measurements are needed, care should be taken to avoid sag
on the tape meters.
Figure 4. 9 Proper adjustment of measuring tape
Mason tools

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Block laying trowel
This is a tool, which every mason needs. Used for picking up mortar out of the barrel,
spreading mortar on the wall, bed joints and cutting off excess mortar. In addition to the
picture shown, a Triangular and rectangular trowel
are also used by the mason.
Figure 4.10 trowel
Walling Hammer/Mason hammer/

Walling Hammers are used especially to knock of parts of walling unit blocks, /brick, concrete
blocks etc/. The hammer weighs about half a kilogram and is made of steel. It has a wooden
handle, which should always fit, firmly to the hole in the head. The flat part of the hammer
at one of its end is called cutting edge/use to cut bricks or concrete blocks/ and the square
head of the hammer on the other end is called striking face which is used to strike laid
stones. The hammer must be formed in a kind that the cutting edge and central line of the
hammerhead lie in a circular arc.
Fig 4.11 Brick hammer
Club hammer and bolster

Is used to strike marrow – headed chisels and brick set or for driving stakes into the ground.
Figure 4.12 Club hammer

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Chisel
Used to cut concrete blocks, bricks, plaster surface and to remove mortar projections etc. Cold
chisels are available in different sizes and shapes. The operation is done together with a
club hammer.
Flat chisel
Mortar barrel/ drum Figure 4.13 flat chisel

This is used by mason, plasterer, tiller, etc, and serves to prepare small amount of mortar right
at the working place. It is also used as temporary mortar storage,
supplied from mixing station, and to control water ratio of the mix
when it gets dry. Always, keep it workable and clean.
Mortar drum
Mortar spade - Mortar spade is used to stir the mortar paste, prepared in the barrel or drums
and keeps the mix to right and uniform consistency.
Bucket
A Bucket is used to serve small amount of water or material and to take the tools after work.
Figure 4.14 Bucket

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Brush
Is used for wetting the building stones, cleaning fresh mortar joints of masonry wall, to clean
hand tools before and after use and to clean dust on surfaces.
Figure 4.15 Brush
1.5. Calculating Material quantity
How to calculate cement, sand quantity for Plastering?
Figure 5.1 cement, sand, floating
Before beginning to work on the plastering calculation, note down these general things
 Cement Mortar Ratio for wall plastering 1:6

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 Cement Mortar Ratio for ceiling plastering 1:4
 Plastering thickness should not be more than 12-15 mm. If there is a need for an additional coat
doesn‘t does that at one go.
 Ensure you are using good quality of cement & Sand (In silt content test, we have discussed
how bad sand quality affects the work)
 Plastering Work Ratio Calculation
Cement Mortar Required:
Plastering thickness 12 mm = 12/1000 = 0.012m
Volume of cement mortar required = (Plastering Area x thickness)
= 100 m2 x 0.012m = 1.2 m3
(This is wet volume that means we need this much volume of cement mortar after mixing water,
So for dry volume, we have to add 30-35% as bulk age of sand, we are using 35% and wastage as
20%)
Consider 35% Sand Bulk age = 1.2 m3 x (1+0.2+0.35) (Many of us would use 1.54 as constant)
= 1.86 m3
Cement : Sand (Ratio) = 1 : 6 ( Total = 1+6 = 7 Parts )
Cement required (1 Part) = 1.86 x 1/7
= 0.265 m3 /0.0347
= 7.66 bags (Approx. – 8 Bags)
Sand required (5 Part) = 1.86 x 6/7
= 1.59 m3
We normally use Sq.m while calculating plastering cement mortar
Step 1:- Assumptions
Area of Plaster = 100 m²
Thickness of plaster = 12 mm =0.012 m
Mix Ratio → 1:4
Step 2:- Volume of Plaster
∵Volume of plaster = Area of plaster x Thickness of plaster
Volume of plaster = 100 x 0.012=1.2m³
Add 20% extra Quantity for Filling of joints, Depressions & Wastage
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∴Volume of plaster = 1.2 + [ (20x1.2) /100 ] =1.2 + 0.24 =1.44m³
Dry volume of plaster = Wet volume x 1.35
Dry Volume = 1.44 x 1.35m = 1.944 m³

Step3:- Quantity of Cement
Quantity of Cement = (Dry Volume of plaster x Cement ratio) / (Sum of the ratio)
Quantity of cement = (1.944 x 1) /(1+4)= 0.3888 m³
∵Density of Cement = 1440kg/m³
Weight of Cement = 1440 x 0.3888 = 559.872 Kg
∵ 1 bag of cement contains 50 kg of cement
Number of bags = 559.872 Kg/50 = 11.2 No‘s
Step 4:- Quantity of Sand
∵ Cement: Sand :: 1:4
Quantity of Sand = Quantity of Cement x 4
∴ Quantity of Sand = 0.3888 m³ x 4 = 1.5552 m³
∵ 1m³=35.3147 Cubic Feet (CFT)
Quantity of sand = 1.5552 x 35.3147 = 54.921 CFT
∵ 1 brass = 100 CFT
Sand = 54.921 /100 =0.54921 Brass
∵ Density of sand = 1920 kg/m³
Weight of sand = 1.5552 x 1920 = 2985.98 kg
∵ 1 tone = 1000 kg
Weight of sand in Tone = 2985.98 /1000 =2.985 tone
Step 5:- Quantity of water
Quantity of water equals to 20% Total Dry material (cement & sand)
Quantity of water = 0.20 x (Weight of cement + Weight of sand )
∴ Quantity of water = 0.20 x (559.872+ 2985.98) = 709.2 kg = 709.2 Liter
Thickness Proportion Water required
6mm 1.4 354.6litres

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12mm 1.4 709.2litres
15mm 1.4 886.5litres
Table 1 material requirement
1.5.1 How to Calculate Quantity of Material for Plastering

The term plastering is used to describe the thin mortar covering that is applied on the surface of
the wall and ceiling. The plastering removes the unevenness of the surface and sometimes used
to develop decorative effects. Today in this article we will learn how to calculate the quantity of
material for plaster. Calculation of quantity of material for 12 mm thick plaster of ratio 1: 6 (1
Cement:6 Sand) in the wall for 100 mm2
The volume of mortar = Area × Thickness
= 100 × 0.012 = 1.2
Adding 30% to fill up joints, uneven surface etc
Wet Volume of Mortar = 1.2 + 0.36 = 1.56 Cum
Increasing 25% for dry volume
Total Dry Volume = 1.56 + 0.39 = 1.95 = 2 Cum (say)
Quantity of Cement = 2/(1+6) × 1 (1 Ratio of cement) = 0.30 Cum
In Kg = 0.30 × 1440 (Density of cement = 1440 kg/m3)
= 432 Kg In Bags = 8.64 bags
Quantity of Sand = 2/(1+6) × 6 (6 Ratio of sand) = 1.80 Cum
In Cubic Feet = 63.558 cft (1 Cum = 35.31 cft)
Water Required = Cement quantity in Kg × 0.5 (water cement ratio = 0.5)
432 × 0.5 = 216 Liters
Alternative Method
Quantity of Sand = Cement bags × Sand ratio ×1.226 (Volume of one bag cement = 1.226 cft) =
8.64 × 6 × 1.226 = 63.55 cft
Similarly, The quantity of materials for other proportions may be calculated.
As you mentioned thickness of plastering is 12mm = 0.012m [convert in m]
Area of plastering = 100 x 0.012 =1.2m3
Now coming to the cement: sand ratio = 1:4

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which means 1 part of cement and 4 parts of sand
Total parts = 1+4 = 5
Amount of cement in plastering = 1.2 x 1/5 = 0.24m3
Amount of sand in plastering = 1.2 x 4/5 = 0.96m3
1 bag of cement has = 0.0347m3
0.24m3 = 6.91 bags
Amount of sand = 0.96m3
1.5.2 CEMENT AND SAND REQUIREMENT
Given ratio of the Cement and sand is 1:4
Then, we know that for 50kg weight of the bag cement, the volume of cement is. 0347 cum.
Then Dry weight for cement is 50kg.
Now we will find the Dry weight of sand, as we know that dry bulk density of sand is
1600kgs/cum.
So, now we can find Dry weight =.0347x1600x4 =222.08 kgs
So, water required = Weight of total Dry material x 20%
Then we can find total dry weight = 50+222.08 =272.08kgs
Then Quantity of water required is .20x272.08=54.416lit
 Calculating the quantities of Cement & Sand required for plastering:
General points to be remembered in Plastering work calculation
 The ratios mentioned in plastering are volumetric ratios of Cement : Sand
For suppose 1:3 ratio refers to 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand in a mortar.
 The plastering is usually done in two layers (two coats): The first coat of plastering is laid
with the thickness of minimum 12mm (ranges between 12-15mm) and this coat is called
as a Rough coat or Primary coat.
 The second coat should be laid with the thickness of 8mm
and this is called as a finish coat or Secondary coat of plastering.
 The overall thickness of plastering should be minimum 20mm if two coats are applied.
(First coat + second = 12mm+8mm =20mm)

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Different ratios of Cement mortar used for plastering are tabulated below:
Mix ratio areas of usage
1:6 & 1:5 This ratio is usually used for Internal plastering of bricks
1:4 Used for Ceiling and external walls
1:3 As its a rich mortar mix and it is used where external walls are prone to
severe climatic conditions.
It is also used for repair works.
As we know, the cement has a dry density volume of 1440Kg/m3

Each bag of cement has = 50 kgs
Which means each bag volume is 50/1440 = 0.0348 m3 of cement
The dry density of sand = 1600Kgs/m3
Steps involved in calculation of plastering quantities:
1. Find the total area of wall to be plastered in Sqm
2. Consider the ratio and thickness of plastering
3. Calculate the Total Volume of plastering
4. Find out the Volume of Cement and Sand individually for both coats
5. Calculate the total volume of cement & Sand
Now coming to the calculation part,
For calculation Assume the wall length and width as 10m x 10m

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1+0.6 =1.6m3
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1.6 Prepare materials and safely handled
Typical beneficiation processes include crushing, roasting, magnetic separation, flotation,

and leaching. Second, additional processes such as smelting and alloying are used to produce
the metal that is to be fabricated into parts that are eventually assembled into a product.
If the surface is smooth or has low absorption rate, then mineral based bonding coat should be
applied first to provide a mechanical key for subsequent layers.
1.6.1 Applying safe handling techniques
Mix plastering compounds using hand or mechanical mixing techniques Materials appropriate to
the work application are identified, obtained, prepared, safely handled and Types of finishing
compounds compatible with project-based assessment techniques fully replicate ... follow safe
handling requirements
Sorting solid plastering material and component

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Sorting solid plastering material and component Storing Solid plastering material and
components are identified on delivery to site and checked for conformity to material
schedule, plans and quality requirements

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1.5. Identifying Environmental protection
Environmental plans and regulatory obligations and apply.

A round half of all non-renewable resources mankind consumes are used in construction,
making it one of the least sustainable industries in the world. However, mankind has spent the
majority of its existence trying to manipulate the natural environment to better suit its needs so
today our daily lives are carried out in and on constructions of one sort or another: we live in
houses, we travel on roads, and we work and socialize in buildings of all kinds. Contemporary
human civilization depends on buildings and what they contain for its continued existence, and
yet our planet cannot support the current level of resource consumption associated with them.
Energy Use, Global Warming and Climate Change
. Rather than constantly battling against the natural environment, we need to start respecting
natural systems and learning from ecological processes: creating a better balance between
human need and the wider environment.
Responsibilities in Construction before, during, and after completing the work in

protecting vegetation
BEFORE WORK
 Walk the job prior to starting any construction activities to ensure that you understand the
limits of the job and to identify the location of any areas of vegetation to be protected.
 Ensure that vehicles and equipment are free from soil, weeds and seeds before coming on
site.
 Take note if your site is subject to plant disease control measures.
 Check for areas, which may have been marked by bunting to protect vegetation.
 Check with your supervisor if you are unsure about anything
DURING WORK
 Minimize vegetation disturbance and protect all vegetation not identified for removal.
 Avoid the use of machinery or vehicles outside the construction zone. Use designated
parking areas and plant compounds.
 Locate stockpiles and their access in cleared areas, away from drainage lines or good
vegetation.
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 Maintain bunting around protected areas.
 Store weed infested materials separately from clean materials.
 Clear or spray weeds before stockpiling topsoil.
 Check fill and construction materials for weeds and seeds before use.
 Re vegetate or mulch disturbed areas, particularly batter slopes, at the earliest
opportunity.
 Do not flush spray bars near vegetation or under the tree canopy.
 Do not stockpile material on vegetation, under tree canopies or against trunks.
 Do not burn vegetation pruning or removals unless there are no other options and keep
fires clear of other vegetation.
AFTER WORKING COMPLETION
 Wash or brush down equipment and vehicles to remove soil and plant matter before
leaving the site as this can carry weeds and soil diseases.
 Dispose of weeds and empty weed spray containers at a licensed waste depot.
Common Hazards
1. Cave in of ground
2. Collapse of Trench walls
3. Instability of adjoining structures
4. Contaminated environment
5. Contact with services
6. Inrush of water
7. Hazardous atmosphere
8. Falling loads
9. Placement of loads
10. Hazardous materials
Relevant principles of this act, which could impact on the contract, include:
That pollution and degradation of the environment must be avoided or, where they cannot be
altogether avoided, are kept to a minimum and corrected.

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That waste is avoided, or where it cannot be altogether avoided, minimized. That negative
impacts of the contract, on the environment and the people in the environment, are prevented and
where they cannot be altogether prevented, are kept to a minimum and corrected.
absence of mitigation construction and operations activities
The following construction and operations activities as having potential, in the absence of
mitigation, to result in the introduction of deleterious substances (contaminated runoff) into the
River:
Hazardous materials spill in the vicinity of the river/marsh during the course of roadway
construction.
Release of re-suspended, contaminated bottom sediments during the course of construction of
roadway embankment over Riel Pond
During operation, introduction of contaminants (deleterious substances) into the River Marsh as
a result of discharge of roadway/bridge runoff from storm water management facilities.
During operation, release of hazardous materials as result of a spill associated with a vehicular
accident on the roadway, bridge deck or approaches.
During operation, introduction of contaminants (deleterious substances) into the Sturgeon
River/Riel Marsh as a result of roadway/bridge maintenance procedures
The above-described environmental protection measures will achieve the following:
 Minimization of the potential for hazardous materials spills to occur during
construction
 Minimization of the potential for any spill occurring during construction or operation
to reach the Sturgeon River or Riel Marsh.

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Self-Check -1 Plan and prepare
Directions: Answer all the questions listed below. Use the Answer sheet provided in the next
page:
I. choice the correct answer from the alternatives (12%)
1. _________used for picking up mortar out of the barrel, spreading mortar on the tile. (Points 2)
A. Straight edge C. Trowel
B. Hose level D. Plum bob
2. what‘s is the measurement units wall area -------------------?
A m2 B kg2 C kg/m3 D km
3.------------------------- what is the volume of mortars
A area x thickness B cement + sand
C wastage +shrinkage D wastage +shrinkage + thickness

4.__________________________ is medical attention that is typically administered immediately
after an injury or illness occurs. (3 points)
A. Injury B. Emergency C. First aid. D. Accident
5. Which of the following are used to keep our eye from accident? (2 Point).
A. Helmet B. Goggle. C. Glove D. Apron
II Directions: Answer all the questions listed below. Use the Answer spaced provided
under question (10)
1. List out main purpose environmental protection. (5p)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2. What is the responsibility of construction (3Point )
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
………………………………………………………………………………………………

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3. List out construction tools at least 4 with their use. (2 points)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Satisfactory rating above 20 unsatisfactory below 20
Answer Sheet
Name: _________________________ Date: _______________
You can ask you teacher for the copy of the correct answers.
Answer Sheet
Score = ___________
1----------------------------------- 3. ---------------------------
2. ----------------------------- 4. ----------------------------- Rating: ____________
5.----------------------------------- 6.----------------------------------
7.------------------------------------ 8.-----------------------------------------

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OPERATION SHEET-1
OPERATION TITLE: - Plan and prepare.

PURPOSE: to know more about plans and how is prepared
Conditions of situation: trainees how to make plan &prepares
CONDITIONS OR SITUATIONS FOR THE OPERATIONS: -
 Wear appropriate clothes, shoe ...
 Ensure the work shop hazard free
 Ensure the working area is bright / good visibility
 Make workstation comfortable
 Use standard & specifications
EQUIPMENT TOOLS
Trowel, bucket, brush, paper, sponge, Spade
PROCEDURE,
1. Apply OHS rules
2.To know Abbreviation & Symbols
3.Identify use of tools & materials
4. Measuring & mixing materials
PRECAUTIONS: -
Use safety tools and materials.
*put ceramic tiling on the level surface.
*removed sharp materials from music floor
QUALITY CRITERIA:
- The students can evaluate his success in performing the operation.

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LAP Test 1 Plan and prepare
Name: _____________________________ Date: ________________
Time started: __________________Time finished: ________________
Instructions: Given necessary templates /guide, workshop, tools and materials you are
required to perform the following tasks within 1:00 hours.
Task1. Identify & apply tools with plan & prepare for work.
Task2. Acquiring procedures and information with plans & specification.
Task3. Making workstation ready and safe for top overhaul works

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Unit Two: Preparing materials for tiling application
This unit to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content coverage
and topics:
 Identify material
 Check finishing materials
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the above topic.
 Selecting for tiling material
 Checking finishing materials

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2.1. Identify materials for tiling application
In building the strafes with their necessary supports are essentially constructed in the form of
floors to provide accommodation to its users to live at different level in that building.
2.2.1 Types of tiles

In the tile laying trade there are a lot of different tile and slabs available. They can be
distinguished by size, by the material and by the proposed use.
Overview Types of Tiles
The next chart shows an overview over all

tile and slabs ceramic, cement or natural.
After the overview different types and their
properties will be explained.

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The tiles used in a tile floor may be of any desired quality, shape, thickness and color.
The following sizes of floors tiles are commonly used:
A) 150mm *150mm*15mm,
B) 200mm* 200mm* 20mm,
C) 225mm* 225mm*22mm,e.t.c.
Ceramic tiles
Examples of Tiles
Earthenware
Earthenware is the most common tile used in tile laying. Earthenware is very weak and sucks a
lot of water. Because of these properties, one can use it for wall tiling. It is available in differed
shapes and sizes. If you use it on the floor, the very fine and sensitive surface of the glaze will
get spoiled very soon from the abrasion and the heavy load use.
Stoneware
Stoneware is much harder than earthenware. It doesn‘t absorb as much water as earthenware
does and it is very tough and stable. It is suitable for most kinds of floor tiling in the private
sector. It is also available in a wide range of shapes and sizes. The selection is larger than

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Earthenware. You can recognize then from the sound when you knock them. Stoneware sounds
higher.
Porcelain
Porcelain is a kind of stoneware, but it is even more durable than stoneware. Often they are not
glazed but they are sometimes polished. Porcelain is known for its extremely low rate of water
absorption
Spilt tiles, clinker
The manufacturing process differs totally from the earthenware
described above. They are available glazed or unglazed. It is
easy to recognize them: because of the production process, you
can see the backside rips. Because of the production process they
do not reach the accuracy of an earthenware or stoneware tile.
The incorrectness has to be covered by the joint. They need
bigger joint up to 10 mm.
Mosaic:
Mosaics are all tiles, not bigger than 90 cm² per piece. The
expression mosaic only describes the size of the tile, not the
material. When somebody says: ―Stoneware mosaic‖, that
means the material is stoneware and in a very small size. In
most of the cases the mosaic tiles are pre-glued on paper or
woven fabric. One sheet is about 30 cm x 30 cm, but this
depends on the size of the tiles. These sheets are either glued
on the backside or the front side of the tiles. On the front they are always glued on paper. After
the adhesive has set, the paper must be removed. Therefore you wet it all over and wait until the
water has solved the glue. At this time the paper can be removed very easily.

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When the sheets are glued on the backside of the tile they remain under the tile
Mosaic Tile from Different Shapes
There is enough space between the rips for the
adhesive or cement to attach to the tile and develop
a fixed connection to the tile.
When you form or create a picture or ornaments from tiles then we call it a mosaic ornament.
This is a nice way to use broken tiles and it will leave a very good impression to every viewer, if
it is well done.
2.2.2 Cement bonded tiles and slabs

Terrazzo
Terrazzo slabs consist from two layers: the first is only to carry the second. The second layer is
the face concrete or terrazzo layer. The first layer consists of ordinary cement mortar/ concrete
and is between 1.5 and 2.0 cm thick. The terrazzo layer often contains white cement and nice
terrazzo chips. This layer is going to be
ground and polished after it has
hardened. The result is a very smooth
and shiny surface of the slab. The
Terrazzo slabs with concrete and
asphalt as substrate
Slabs are very hard and tough and

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Can be used in areas with high load of people who are walking on it. The slabs are resistant
against abrasion.
The terrazzo mixture consists of 1 part of white, grey or colored Portland cement and 1, 1.5 parts
of marble chippings which should be of 3 mm gauge. After dry mixing only that much quantity
of water is added, which gives a fairly dry but a workable mix. Mostly (1:2:4) MIXE RATIO
USED.
Properties
Floors from terrazzo are tough and hard, resistant against abrasion, easy to clean and frost proof.
But they are not resistant against acid at all, because the cement that is used as bonding material
is not resistant either.
2.2 Selecting finishing materials,
Finishing material means a coating used in the wood furniture manufacturing industry. Such
materials include, but are not limited to, stains, basecoats, wash coats, enamels, sealers, and
topcoats.
to select appropriate materials according to the specified work requirement.
2.2.1 Portland cement
Portland cement has a medium rate percent hardening and is suitable for the most types of work.
Properties of cement in general:

Rapid Hardening Portland cement  Water resistant
Similar constitution like Portland cement except the  Hardening under water
strength is developed most rapid. Good for  Not resistant against acid
construction grate floor slabs and road construction.  Durable
Pozzuoli Cement

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Like Portland cement but the strength is developed slower, but after a certain tile the final
strength is the same.
Good for water proof buildings
Classification of Limes
Most of the limestone or chalks quarried contain impurities such as silica, alumna, iron oxide and
sulfur. The lime retains these impurities after manufacture from calcium carbonate, and their
presence will greatly affect the setting times, working properties and strengths of the resulting
slaked limes. Limes of this type do not depend upon carbonation for setting and are capable of
setting out of air even under water.
.
(a) Non-hydraulic limes
This is the purest type of lime containing upon 98% calcium oxide. This produces a putty lime,
which has high plasticity and workability, and sets slowly by carbonation. It is also known as
high calcium lime.
(b) Semi-hydraulic limes

These limes contain sufficient impurities to impart feebly or mildly hydraulic tendencies.
(c) Eminently hydraulic limes

These contain a high proportion of impurities, which give the resulting slaked lime properties.
(d) Hydrated lime

This should not be confused with hydraulic lime. Hydrated lime is obtained by slaking high
calcium lime under controlled conditions in a manufacture‘s plant to ensure efficient slaking,
after which the excess water is dried off. The resulting powdered hydrated lime is sold in bags.
Hydrated lime, soaked in water overnight, will produce lime putty with improved yield and
workability. Hydrated lime is a ready product and it is not necessary to soak the lime before
use. Soaking the hydrated lime may spoil/decrease/ the ability of bonding. Hydrated lime is most
common and widely used in construction and is available in the market.
Production of lime
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The limestone or chalk is quarried, crushed and heated in kilns, at
900ºC, to drive out the carbon dioxide content. The resulting
material withdrawn from the kilns is calcium oxide, known also as
burnt lime, lump lime, and quick lime or simply as lime. The
materials are then slaked with water to from slaked lime (calcium
hydroxide), also known as lime putty.
Lime putty sets by a process of carbonation as a result of loss of
water and also by combining chemically with carbon dioxide from
the atmosphere. In doing so, it reverses the chemical actions, which
took place during the manufacturing process.
Manufacturing process of lime

Gypsum
The raw material for the production of gypsum is natural gypsum. The natural gypsum is going
to be ground and burned at a low temperature of 300 ºC and at high temperature of
1000ºC.Durinf this process the crystal water is deducted partly of totally.
With gypsum the workability period is very short. From the beginning of mixing to the
beginning of hardening a period of 8 to 20 minutes is available
With the beginning of hardening the gypsum has already reached 40 % of its final strength. From
the beginning of hardening the gypsum should not be used any more. Especially the adding of
water should be avoided.

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The hardening period can slowed down by chemical additives. As well a small portion of
hydrated lime can do this job.
High temperatures will accelerate the process as well as remaining of gypsum in the mixing
water work as initial crystals.
Properties of gypsum
Gypsum sticks good to smooth and plan surfaces.

Gypsum does not shrink during hardening process so it can be used without sand .
Gypsum plaster can take and give up water
Gypsum is not water resistant continuously contact to water will spoil the matrix.
The contact from gypsum to metal is a problem metal in direct contact to gypsum must be
protected
Gypsum protects, because of its property of giving up the water when heated, construction
members against fire
Self-Check -2 Preparing materials for tiling application
I. Directions; Multiple Choice Items.

Instruction 1 Choose and write the letter of the best answer on the given answer sheet?
1). -------------------------- is obtained by slaking high calcium lime under controlled conditions
in a manufacture‘s plant to ensure efficient slaking, after which the excess water
A. Non-hydraulic limes B. Semi-hydraulic limes C. Eminently hydraulic limes D.
Hydrated lime
2 .-------------------------- are all tiles, not bigger than 90 cm² per piece
A. Ceramic B .Terrazzo C. Mosaic D. PVC
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II Directions: Answer all the questions listed below. Use the Answer spaced provided
under question
1. Write at list three types of ceramic tile
1.------------------------------------2.--------------------------------------.3----------------------------
Note: Satisfactory rating – 3 points Unsatisfactory - below 3 points
Answer Sheet 1. -------------
2. -------------- 3.--------------------------
Name: _________________________ Date: ____________

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OPERATION SHEET# 2
OPERATION TITLE: Prepare materials for tiling application
PURPOSE: to know more about plans and how is prepared
Conditions of situation: trainees how to make plan &prepares
TOOLS AND MTERIALS
 Plastic homer
 Trowel
 Spade
 Sponge
 Tiling cuter
 Sand
 Gypsum
 Clord cement
 Water
 Wood float etc.
PROCEDURE: *
1. Straight, even and hardened plaster
2. First coat or splash coat
3. Application of tiles in mortar bed
4. Straight, even and hardened plaster
PRECAUTION: *use safety tools and materials.

*put ceramic tiling on the level surface.
*removed sharp materials from music floor
QUALITY CRITERIA: the students can evaluate his success in performing the operation.

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Unit Three: Prepare surface
This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the
following content coverage and topics:
 Prepare site inspection
 Remove hazards and obstructions
 Select surface preparation tools.
 Determine patching method
 Select patching materials
 Apply appropriate material and method.
 Clean surface of material
 Select patching area.
This guide will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the above topic.
 Prepararation from site inspection and plans
 Removed hazards and obstructions from the practice area and competition site
 Select surface preparation tools are ideal for descaling, cleaning and chiseling metal
surfaces
 Determine patching method of hole
 Select mixing and patching materials for prepare surface
 Using appropriate for applocation material and method.
 Cleaning surface also an important prepare surface of material
 Select sealing patching area.

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3.1 Prepare site inspection
A Prepare site inspection checklist is essential in the planning phase of a construction project as
it ascertains compliance with project requirements. Once the project has broken ground, progress
inspections become part of the job site‘s daily routine to guarantee these requirements are met.
Depending on the project size, progress inspections are conducted by one or more individuals
across several trades. If a specific aspect of the project requires additional input, specialist
inspectors may be brought in to perform inspections on things like the environmental policy,
waste management plan, and accessibility.
3.1.2 Quality Inspections
Quality control inspections ensure the finished construction work meets the quality standards set
in place. Quality inspections also make sure that the project complies with all the specifications
and quality requirements listed in the contract documents. Quality inspections include regular
site walkthroughs, and they typically result in a monthly quality report that identifies issues and
monitors progress.
3.1.3 Building Regulation Compliance Inspections
By carrying out building regulation inspections, builders ensure that performed work is going to
be approved by the local authority‘s building control department or by an approved inspector.
Depending on the details of the project, these building regulation inspections vary in number and
frequency.
These inspections most often occur during:
 Commencement.
 Excavation, (before excavations are filled).
 Foundations (before they are covered up).
 Laying of damp proof courses.
 Installation of new drains (before covering up).
 Construction of the primary structure.
 Installation of insulation.
 Roof construction.
 Completion.
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3.3 Selecting surface preparation tools.
To ensure adhesion of the coating to the substrate and prolong the coating‘s service life , it is
important to properly prepare the surface.
 The surface must be dry and in sound condition.
 All oils, dust, dirt, loose rust, peeling paint and other contaminants must be removed. Failure
to do so can lead to loss of adhesion and coating failures.
 For optimum coating performance product, substrate and ambient temperature should be
between 20°C-25°C* (68°F-77°F). To prevent condensation during application the surface
temperature must be 3°C (5°F) or more above the dew point at all times.
 What is the Contamination surface?
One of the most important principles to recognize to understand wiping in clean rooms is that the
contamination is typically of the invisible kind. While some macro residues may be visible to the
naked eye, clean room contamination is typically concerned with micro level residues,. Even
with the superior air handling and filtration offered by proper clean room construction, surfaces
can be contaminated with a variety of different residues and materials that differ physically and
chemically. Small sub micrometer (micron) particles, larger visible filamentous fibers, acids,
bases, salts, organic matter, a variety of materials both in solid and liquid form are used in the
process, and nonvolatile residues (NVRs) are all examples of surface contaminants that may be
commonly present and need to be removed.
The risk with these contaminants is not merely that they will exist in a clean room environment,
potentially risking the product integrity, but that they may migrate to other locations in the room
if they are not promptly, frequently, and periodically removed. In fact, using methods other than
wiping for removal can increase the potential of such undesirable migration. Therefore, most
clean room operations will document specific cleaning procedures, tools, and frequencies as part
of their quality assurance systems to ensure that product integrity will not be compromised.

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Surface Layout Guidelines:
 Attempt to base the surface layout on the shape of features

 Features should define areas of equal curvature
 Areas of equal curvature (Features) should be represented by a single surface
 Feature definition should include where features begin/end & merge
Surfaces define the appearance of a building. Sto Group offers a wide range of different surface
materials, including render, glass, stone or 3-dimensional façade elements, that allow a multitude
of textures, patterns, shapes and sizes. Sto Group‘s goal is to give you creative control over the
appearance of a building, achieving high quality, sustainable results.
 Render
Render offers an wide range of possibilities in surface character and appearance, and the
perception of a building can be changed dramatically through the choice of render used.
By adding marble grain to the mix a render can be used to create a rolled texture, allowing the
craftsperson to score the surface either vertically, horizontally or randomly in a worm-like
pattern. Homogenous grain-free material gives the craftsperson almost unlimited freedom,
allowing tool choice and technique to determine the pattern type, size and texture. The choice of
binder within a render can also radically change its surface character. Cement-free renders
provide surfaces with a uniformity of appearance, even when wet, while mineral renders increase
the degree of patina through a mottled appearance that is further highlighted by water. When
repointing masonry, preserve original mortar characteristics, including composition, profile, and
color. In some cases, matching the composition of the historic mortar mix will be essential to the
preservation of the bricks.
 Repair of the original material may be required after it is uncovered.
 Removal of other materials, such as stucco, should be tested in a small area to ensure that
the original material will not be damaged.
If masonry has a stucco finish, removing the covering may be difficult and may reveal

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 Extensive damage to the original material. For example, original brickwork was
sometimes chipped to provide a ‗key‘ for the stucco.
 If removing stucco is considered, first remove the material from a test patch to determine
the condition of the underlying masonry.
3.2 Set up surface preparation tools
A Trowel is an important plastering tool that allows you to smooth the plaster after applying it to
the wall. This tool is used to flatten the plaster down over the area intended for plastering. It‘s
important to have a good, clean surface on the trowel to provide for a uniform finish.
Figure 3, 1 steel trowel
 Hawk
A hawk is used by the professionals to carry the plaster with them as they move down the wall.
An advantage of this, over carrying plaster in a pan or working from the bucket directly, is the
amount of drywall compound that that can be picked up by the trowel in each ―scooping‖ action.
As plaster sticks to the hawk after a few seconds the hawk can be tipped up at a 90 degree angle
whilst scooping plaster off with the trowel.
 Mud Pan
A mud pan can be used instead of a hawk for the less experienced plasterer. While it can be more
wasteful, time consuming and laborious scooping plaster material out of the pan, it is harder to
spill material onto the floor with the pan than with a hawk.

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 Utility Knife/Scissors
A utility knife or scissors will help cut plaster tape to size. The utility knife is employed to
square out the edge of the hole to be plastered over if repairing damaged walls. Straight edged
holes are easier to smooth over for an even surface.
 Sponge/Sandpaper
A wet sponge is used to smooth out unevenness that may occur after plastering the wall.
Coarse grit sandpaper is used quickly to smooth out large areas of rough unevenness, and then
the finer grit is used to finish up the area.
 Jointing Knife
A jointing knife is essential for defining a straight line and edging into tight spaces such as
corners and those areas that are tight, such as between a window near the wall and the wall that is
perpendicular to it. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes as needed. Angled jointing
knives help reach hard to reach angles
. Figure 3.2 joint knife
 Step Ladder

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A step ladder is an invaluable tool for reaching the holes in the walls at the higher areas. Try to
get a ladder which includes a pan shelf at the top. You can carry the materials and tools you are
using in the pan to reduce fatigue and time spent going up and down the ladder.
Figure 3.3 internal steel ladders
 Bucket
Never discount the importance of a couple buckets of clear, fresh water for keeping tools clean
and for wetting the sponge during the project.
3) Hawk/ Hand Board
The Hawk (or hand board) is the plastering tool that holds the plaster for your trowel to scoop
from. Again there are loads of options but here‘s what we recommend.
 Foam/ Plastic Hawks
Figure 3.4 plastic hawks

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The plastic Hawks are perfect for beginners. There cheap, easy to use but more importantly, they
are extremely light. This is going to be a big help when starting.
That‘s because when you‘re holding a hand full of plaster for hours on end your arms (especially
your forearms), will start to get tired. Your muscles won‘t be used to the work.
That‘s why the plastic hawks are brilliant for beginners. It will save you a lot of strain and hard
work.
However, they aren‘t that strong and they can often snap with time. There is another option if
you want one that will last:
 Aluminum Hawks
These Hand Boards are a lot stronger. They will last longer but are still quite light due to the
lightweight aluminums. They are a bit more expensive but will definitely last longer than the
plastic types. You don‘t need to spend loads on a Hawk
 Mixer
Back in the day, all the old boys used to mix their plaster with a spade. However, we‘re a bit
more advanced and I‘d defiantly recommend you invest in a decent mixer.
Again there loads of different models to choose from but we‘ll narrow it down for
 Finishing Trowel
In a similar way to the pointing trowel, the finishing trowel is another crucial tool in any
plasterer‘s kit. It utilizes a wider, flatter blade to smooth out the plaster more effectively and
provide that exceptionally smooth finish to all your surfaces. This is a tool you‘ll be using a lot
so it makes sense to invest in a high quality tools .
 Window Trowel
When you can‘t use your other larger trowels around windows, most plasterers will reach for
their window trowel. As its name suggests, this tool is specifically designed for use around
windows thanks to its smaller blade face which gives you better man ability across the wall in
tighter spaces. An important tool if you work on a lot of residential projects.
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 Inside and Outside Corner Trowels
Yet another crucial tool in the professional plasterer‘s kit – the corner trowel. Instead of tackling
the complexities of finishing your corners with a more traditional trowel, corner trowels allow
you to smooth out your plaster with accuracy and simplicity. Save time on site by reaching for
your knives help reach hard to reach angles and outside corner trowels instead of trying to get by
with a traditional flat blade.
 Mortar Stand
This is one you might consider obvious, but again it‘s another simple accessory that can make
life on site that little bit easier. A mortar stand is a small foldable table that you can use to hold
your plastering material or grout, giving you that ease of access whilst working. Don‘t overlook
the simple tools as they can make a big difference!
 Bucket Trowel
This tool is commonly used to scoop plaster up out of your mixing bucket and on to your
plastering hawk. Because of the weight involved when transferring the plaster, you‘ll need a
strong and robust bucket trowel as part of your kit. This really is a must-have tool.
 Mixing Bucket
Similar to the mortar stand, a bucket will have multiple uses when working on a project. In most
cases, you‘ll want a decent size bucket – at least 15 liters should be sufficient depending on your
specific requirements. Before you start any plastering job, you‘ll need to keep your bucket clean
and dry prior to mixing any plastering materials.
 Snips
Having a reliable pair of snips is always important in modern plastering, primarily because you‘ll
likely need to trim and cut your beading. Make sure the snips you choose have the ability to cut
both popular types of beading metal – cold steel and stainless steel. Also, having longer handles
on your snips can give you better leverage and make the task of trimming up beading much
easier. All plasterers should have a durable set of snips as part of their kit.

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 Plasterers Float
When you‘ve added the final layer of plaster to your wall or ceiling, you‘ll need to give it one
final pass over with a plasterers float to give it that all-important smooth, high quality finish.
This is another very important tool that should be carried by all plasterers as without it, you
won‘t be able to smooth down the top layer of plaster and you could see your surface end up
uneven.
 Scarified
The final tool on our list is the scarifies a large metal comb that allows you to scratch away at the
render before applying your second coat. The scarifies is an important tool for any plasterer as it
gives you the ability to comb lines directly into the render which will create a stronger bond
when the next layer is applied. If you want a high quality finish on your walls and ceilings, we‘d
definitely recommend investing in one of these.
3.4 Determine patching method
3.4.1 How to Repair Plaster Walls
If you're an old-house person, you probably need no convincing that plaster is far superior to
drywall. It feels more solid, it's better for soundproofing and it has a texture that's much more
pleasing to the eye than generic sprayed-on drywall textures. But plaster isn't perfect. It tends to
crack over time, and when you drill or hammer into it, you can end up with a much bigger hole
than you wanted. Plaster also seems more complicated than drywall, since the material is hand-
applied rather than screwed in place. As it turns out, that's another advantage of plaster, as
repairing ordinary cracks and holes isn't much more difficult than icing a cake (which, for old-
house enthusiasts, might just be the icing on the cake).
There's a simple fix for loose plaster, assuming the problem isn't significant:
 Drill holes spaced about 3 inches apart on both sides of the crack or around the
perimeter of the hole, using a 3/8-inch masonry drill bit.

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 Drill just through the plaster, and stop when you hit the wood behind. If you don't hit
any wood, circle the hole with a pencil to identify it as a "miss."
 Squirt plaster adhesive (sold in tubes applied with caulk gun) into each hole, ignoring
the circled holes.
 Secure the plaster with evenly spaced drywall screws fitted with plaster washers. Drive
the screws through the plaster and into the wood; don't drive them in the drilled holes.
You will cover the screws and washers with drywall mud (as well as the "miss" holes)
after you make the repair.
How to Repair Cracks in Plaster
Repairing cracks in plaster can be done with the same materials used in standard drywall
finishing projects. For such small repairs, buy a small tub of premixed drywall joint compound
rather than mixing up a large quantity.
Step 1 Clean Out the Crack
To make effective repairs to plaster cracks with drywall mud and fiberglass tape, the crack needs
to be clean and free of loose material and debris.
1. Use a putty knife or a painter's 5-in-1 tool to scrape out loose plaster or old repair material
from the crack. You don't have to dig out the solid plaster; just remove the loose stuff.
2. Sand along the edges of the crack and about 6 inches to either side of the crack with 100-grit
sandpaper (a sanding sponge works well for this). The goal with sanding is to remove any
loose paint or plaster flakes and to roughen the surrounding painted area so the repair
materials will stick to the surface.
3. Remove all sanding dust from the area with a slightly damp rag, and let the surface dry.
Step 2 Tape and Mud the Crack
Plaster cracks can be effectively repaired with ordinary drywall compound and fiberglass
tape, which is self-adhesive and readily sticks to the wall surfaces.
1. Apply self-adhesive mesh drywall joint tape over the crack. Press and smooth the tape
onto the surface with a 6-inch drywall knife.

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2. Apply a thin coat of premixed all-purpose drywall joint compound (mud) to the crack
with the drywall knife.
3. Force the mud into the crack so it is completely filled, then make additional passes with
the knife to smooth the mud layer over the tape. It's okay if the mesh shows through the
initial coat; too thin is better than too thick.
4. Let the mud dry overnight.
Step 3 Apply the Second Mud Coat
Once the first coat of mud is dry, apply a second coat to raise the surface of the patch and
completely cover the fiberglass tape.
1. Scrape the mudded area carefully with the 6-inch knife to remove any blobs or chunks of
hardened mud.
2. Apply a second thin coat of mud over the entire repair area, spreading it out a little wider
than the first coat to "feather" the mud into the surrounding surfaces. This coat should be just
thick enough to cover the mesh tape.
Step 4 Finish the Repair
Finishing the crack repair requires a final coat of mud, then very light sanding to remove
irregularities. Make sure not to over-sand, exposing the fiberglass tape.
1. Scrape the dried mud, as before, then apply a final thin coat of fresh mud, feathering it out at
the edges so it is flush with the surrounding wall.
3. Sand the mudded area with 150-grit sandpaper (or a sanding sponge) to smooth out any
imperfections.
4. Wipe off all sanding dust with a dry rag.
5. Prime and paint the patch to match the surrounding surface.
How to Repair Holes in Plaster

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Repairing larger holes in plaster uses many of the same tools and materials as crack repair, but
instead of drywall compound, you will use patching plaster. This repair also calls for a latex
bonding agent that helps the patching plaster adhere to the lath.
Step 1 Prepare the Patch Area
Cleaning the patch area and removing loose debris is essential to a long-lasting patch.
1. Scrape along the edges of the hole to remove all loose plaster and peeling paint, using a putty
knife or a painter's 5-in-1 tool. Also, remove any loose plaster from the interior of the hole.
2. Sand the painted surface in an area about 6 inches beyond the perimeter of the hole, using
100-grit sandpaper (a sanding sponge works well for this). The goal with sanding is to
remove any loose paint or plaster flakes and to roughen the surrounding painted area so the
repair materials will stick to the surface.
3. Remove all sanding dust from the area with a slightly damp rag, and let the surface dry.
4. Coat all surfaces inside and around the hole with liquid bonding agent, using a paintbrush.
Let the agent set or dry as directed. This treatment acts as an adhesive and seals over the dry
wood to prevent premature drying of the patching material.
For very small holes, you can simply remove loose plaster from the hole, then fill the hole
with patching plaster or spackling compound, smoothing the surface with a putty knife. Let
the patch dry, then touch up the area with paint.
Step 2 Apply the First Patch Coat
Effective patching of holes in plaster is best done with several layers of patching plaster.
Avoid the temptation to complete the patch with a single application. Applied too thick,
patching plaster can take a very long time to dry and may be weaker if not allowed to dry fully.
1. Apply a base layer of patching plaster to the hole, using a margin trowel. Press the plaster
against the wood lath so it squeezes in between the gaps for a strong bond. Fill the hole to
about half of its depth with this first layer.
2. If recommended by the manufacturer, scarify the surface of the plaster with a crosshatching
of lines about 1/4 inch apart, using a nail or flat-blade screwdriver (or use a scarifying tool if
you have one).
3. Let the plaster set as directed by the manufacturer.
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A scarified tool gives "tooth" so that the second plaster coat will bond to the first.
Step 3 Apply the Second Patch Coat
Once the first coat is fully dry, fill the remainder of the hole with patching plaster, using a 6-
inch drywall knife. Smooth the plaster flush with the surrounding surface. Let the plaster dry
as directed.
Step 4 Finish the Repair
A bit of artistry is required to finish the repair area, especially if you are trying to match a
textured surface. The finishing is done with drywall compound, not patching plaster.
1. Scrape the dried patch area smooth with a 6-inch drywall knife to remove any blobs or
chunks of hardened patching plaster.
2. Apply a thin coat of premixed all-purpose drywall compound ("mud") over the entire
repair area, spreading it out a little wider than the plaster to "feather" the mud into the
surrounding surfaces.
4. Sand the mudded area with 150-grit sandpaper (or a sanding sponge) to smooth out any
imperfections.
5. Wipe off all sanding dust with a dry rag.
6. If desired, texturize the patch to blend it in with the rest of the wall or ceiling.
7. Prime and paint the patch to match the surrounding area.
How to Repair Plaster

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Figure 3.4.1 Repair sagging
Repair sagging, cracking plaster walls and avoid the mess of demolition. With plaster washers
and wide fiberglass mesh, old plaster walls can be made smooth and solid again.
Reattaching loose plaster
Pull loose plaster tight to the lath with plaster washers. If the screw cracks the plaster as it goes
in, predrill through the plaster. Finish by skim coating the washers.
Plaster sags from ceilings or bulges from walls when the plaster keys embedded around the wood
lath break loose. You can break out all the loose stuff and replaster the are not a do-it-yourself
project. Or, you can stabilize the sagging plaster by using plaster washers to pull it back up
against the lath. Plaster washers don‘t always work, but they‘re cheap so it‘s worth a shot.
First, locate the joists or studs and mark their location in the loose area. Push up the loose plaster
and place 2-in. screws and the perforated plaster washers into the joists or studs about every 6 or
8 in. The convex washer will flatten as the screw tightens. If the plaster has a rough surface, you
may need to first scrape the surface to get the washer to lie flat. Next, secure the loosened field to
the lath between joists with more washers. Finally, skim-coat over the washers with drywall joint
compound. It may take several coats and extra effort to create a smooth finish or mimic the
existing texture.
If you have solidly attached plaster with cracks spider-webbing through your walls and ceilings,
you can stabilize and coat the entire surface with another product—wide sheets of fiberglass mat.
Self-stick mats are available at home centers. Simply stick them to the wall or ceiling and then
skim coat with two or three coats of joint compound. Another system, called Nu-Wal, uses a
slightly different method. First, you roll on a latex-like base coat. Then embed the fiberglass

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mesh, and roll over it again. This method essentially gives your plaster walls a new flexible skin
so non-structural cracks won‘t reappear. Plus, it acts like a vapor barrier, keeping moisture from
migrating into the wall, and it‘s approved for lead paint encapsulation on interior walls
METHODS OF SURFACE PREPARATION
A. CHEMICAL CLEANING
Finishing construction work contaminated with oil, grease or dirt can be cleaned with detergent,
disodium phosphate or various proprietary concrete cleaners. The use of these materials should
be followed by vigorous scrubbing and thorough rinsing with water to remove all residues.
Solvents should not be used to clean concrete since they will dissolve the contaminate and carry
it deeper into the concrete. Muriatic acid is relatively ineffective in removing oil and grease.
B. MECHANICAL CLEANING
Mechanical cleaning devices are of two types, rotary and impact. Rotary equipment includes
discs and grinders usually used on low compressive strength concrete substrates that do not have
a steel trowelled finish. These devices are not effective on hard dense concrete, which they are
likely to polish rather than abrade
3.5 Select patching materials
Long Lasting Prepare surface select Patch
 Use cement and hydrated lime

 Cement paint is critical
 Pin patches with steel
 Cure the concrete
 The concrete that makes up your steps, driveway, sidewalk, etc. is usually comprised of
four basic ingredients: water, sand, gravel, and Portland cement. The cement is the glue

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that holds the sand and gravel to gather. The concrete that makes up your steps, driveway,
sidewalk, etc. is usually comprised of four basic ingredients: water, sand, gravel, and
Portland cement. The cement is the glue that holds the sand and gravel together.
 It does this my reacting chemically with the water that you add to the mixture.
 Hydration As soon as you add water to cement powder, a chemical reaction begins to
happen. It's called hydration. Very tiny crystals begin to form. These crystals interlock
with one another and lock into and onto any irregularities of the sand and gravel particles.
 This chemical reaction is what's responsible for transforming the plastic mixture of
concrete that resembles thick applesauce to solid rock hours later.
 The more crystals that form, the stronger the bond will be. This means you don't want to
add the minimum amount of Portland cement to your concrete that you're mixing for your
repair.
 It's very important to have a uniform amount of cement paste coating the old concrete.
This is the primary reason for most concrete patch failures.
 The old method of securing a patch involves simply mixing up cement paint. You take
Portland cement; add water until you have a paint consistency.
 In the first three minutes of this video I show you how to mix up a batch of cement paint:
 This cement paint is then brushed onto the old concrete surfaces where the new concrete
material will touch it.
Bonding Agents
If you chose not to use cement paint, you can use many of the acrylic bonding agents that are
available. These chemicals are not much different than the resins used in paints.
Figure 2.1 bonding agent

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There are bonding agents that you add to the patching compound, and there are bonding agents
that you paint onto the old concrete. You can actually use both, if you wish. These compounds
work very well if you follow instructions to the letter.
Some of the bonding agents you paint on the old concrete must cure slightly before you add the
patching compound. They are usually a milky white color when you paint them on.
Depending upon the temperature, wind, and humidity, they then become clear. When the agent
turns clear you can then add the patching compound.
Pin the Patch
Large concrete patches such as a step, corner of a driveway, sidewalk, or patio must be attached
to the old concrete with a mechanical pin. The cement glue or additives will not do the job on
their own.
I've successfully employed standard reinforcing steel bars for years. They're inexpensive, easily
obtainable, and the new concrete readily grabs onto the bumps and knobs on the reinforcing
steel.
The rough profile of the bar also is an advantage when you drive it into the old concrete. As long
as you drill the right sized hole for the rod it is virtually impossible to remove the rod. In fact, as
you drive the rod into the old concrete it will feel tighter than when you drive a nail into wood.
Smaller galvanized nails can be used for pins as well for small repairs. Just size the pin for the
amount of concrete you're installing. Best Repair Weather
Weather is also important. How many people think that hot or warm, dry, breezy weather is the
best time to repair concrete.
This is the worst time to do these repairs! Hot sun and wind take the water out of concrete too
fast. Water needs to be retained by the concrete for weeks so the magic crystals grow and grow
temperatures around 60 F with overcast skies and no rain forecast are the best conditions to do
any concrete work.
Hydration Water , when I said the cement needs water to start the chemical reaction that starts
the crystals growing. The cement also needs water to maintain the chemical reaction.
If you mix up a patching compound batch, install it in hot breezy weather, the water may leave
the mix before enough crystal have grown. The patch will be very weak. It will crumble.

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 Dampen the Old Concrete
Take the time to dampen the area to be patched. Concrete absorbs water. You want to pre-load
the old concrete with water so it doesn't suck too much water out of the cement paint and the
repair compound.
 Cure the Concrete
Take the time to cover your work with plastic after you are finished. You can also spray the
patch with water after it has become stiff. Do this for 4 - 7 days and you will be amazed at how
strong your patch will be!
If the patch is out in the open, try to shade it from the hot sun as well. You can do this by
covering the patch with a piece of plywood.
 Mixing
Concrete patching material can be purchased two ways: premixed in bags or raw materials that
you have to mix. The raw material route is almost always cheaper by a long shot. Plus, you'll
have the necessary pure Portland cement on hand.
Hydrated Lime - Secret Ingredient
I always mix hydrated lime in my repair mixes to boost the holding power of the mix.

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Figure 2.2 hydrated lime
No Added Water
Never trowel back in bleed water which will in many cases appear at the surface. Bleed water is
what makes the concrete look as if it is sweating.
Bleed water happens because water is the lightest of the four ingredients in concrete Leave this
water alone! It will evaporate quickly in most cases. Troweling it into the surface will weaken
the surface of the concrete. You're diluting the cement! This is the primary cause of concrete
scaling! This is the same reason you don't want to add too much water to your concrete mix
making it easy to install. Too much water weakens the concrete.
 Smooth Steel-Trowel Finish
If you desire a smooth steel trowel finish, you must first finish the surface and achieve a sand
finish. This is done by gently swirling a wood float, block, or magnesium trowel over the
stiffening concrete. Once a few more crystals grow, the concrete can be finished with a steel
trowel. This trowel and skilled workmanship bring the cement paste to the surface. As this
hardens, you can get a surface as slick as glass. It's truly and art form. Don't expect perfect
results your first try.

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3.6 using appropriate material for application method
3.6.1 Preparation background

All masonry joints should be raked 10 mm in case of brick masonry and 15 mm in case of stone
masonry for providing key to the plaster before onset of plastering operation. All mortar drops,
dusts and freshly laid concrete or laitance should be removed with the help of a stiff brush.
(rendering is applied after any existing unevenness is removed. or a three coat finishes the local
protection should not be more than 10mm and local depression should not exceed 10 mm. or two
coat plaster these limitations are reduced to /and respectively. The surface should be kept
damp for suction and it should be cleaned.
The surface should not be kept soaked and neither should it be kept less wet so as to
cause strong suction which withdraws the water from mortar and makes it weak and porous.
curing the application of plaster on old surface, all dirt, oil, paint etc. should be
removed along with complete removal of all loose and crumbling plaster to its full
thickness. The back ground of the plaster should be exposed clearly before new plaster is
applied. The surface should be kept damp to maintain optimum suction
How to Patch Up Plaster

Plaster gives a smooth finish to walls and ceilings and is hard-wearing. Houses built up until the
end of World War II are likely to feature lath and plaster non-load-bearing/dividing interior walls
and ceilings. The laths are narrow strips of wood nailed to battens that provide a key for the
plaster to attach to. Load-bearing walls had plaster applied directly to the brick or stone in a
series of coats.
Plasterboard became popular in the post-War period. It is sometimes skimmed with a couple of
coats of plaster to give a uniform finish, or simply fixed in place and the joints taped and filled
(known as dry-lining).
In general, damage to traditionally plastered walls comes in the form of cracks, missing chunks
or damaged corners, while plasterboard damage is normally limited to holes. Skimmed
plasterboard can also develop hairline cracks.

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One of the most common causes of damage is caused by stripping, In this case you re better off
calling in a proto skim over the whole wall. Expect to pay around 12/m², more if you start adding
other small plaster repairs you have about your house. For these you re much better off going.
Tools
 Stanley-type knife
 Bucket for mixing plaster
 Pot or tray for mixing filler
 Small filler ‗knife
 Plastering float
 Hawk
 Hammer
 Chisel
Materials
 Plaster
 Powder-based filler
 Masking tape
 Builders‘ ‗instant grab‘ -type adhesive
 Plasterboard offcuts
 Screws
 PVA
Repairing cracks

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Figure 3,1 repair crack
1. Before you start on any of the jobs below, put down a dust sheet.
2. Dig out cracks in plaster with a Stanley-type knife. You ll need to cut in until you can no
longer see the original crack. By using the blade like this you end up with a V-shaped
groove which is ideal for taking the filler.
3. When you‘ve dug the cracks out, vacuum out any dust and debris so the groove is clean.
4. For vertical and overhead filling jobs (i.e. most of them), mix the filler powder with water
until it becomes a stiff paste.
Figure 3,2 joint filling
5. Lightly dampen the area to be filled with a plant sprayer. This helps the filler stick.
6. Spread the filler into the groove making sure that it has gone right to the bottom. Leave
the filler a little proud over the groove but remove the excess either side before the filler
dries. Once dry, rub the area down with medium-grade sandpaper, then fine-grade before
decorating.
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Corner damage
Figure 3, 3 identify damage surface
7. Damage like this is pretty common. Just applying filler and hoping for the best rarely works
because gravity just slops the filler downwards. Repaired corners are also vulnerable to
people walking past.
8. Apply the filler to the corner and get the shape roughly correct. Then put some wide masking
tape over both sides of the corner and leave the filler to dry. The tape protects the filler and
keeps it in shape. A light sanding later on will deliver the perfect corner repair. Larger areas
of missing corner can be repaired using a plastering corner bead which is fixed to the wall
below the level of the existing plaster and then plastered (rather than filled) up to.
9. Chunks fall out of plaster walls for a number of reasons: household clumsiness is one
contributory factor, but fitting or adjusting a door frame (as here) can create a real mess. This
sort of damage is best repaired with a couple of coats of plaster rather than a hit it and quit
filler approach.
10. First remove any loose chunks of plaster use a hammer and chisel if necessary then vacuum
out the area to get rid of the dust and debris.
11. Brush in a PVA mix to give the plaster the best possible chance of bonding with the existing
wall.
12. Mix up plaster according to the manufacturer‘s instructions. It should be smooth, lump free
and not too runny. Next, apply a thin coat of plaster (2-3mm) onto the area to be repaired.
Don‘t try to fill the whole thing at once or the plaster will just dribble out of the repair.
13. When the plaster starts to dry, lightly scratch the surface with the end of the trowel in this
pattern.
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14. Once the first coat is dry, mix up plaster as before and use a plastering coat to apply. Once
the shape is correct, leave the job alone for ten minutes then wet the float and smooth the
surface over
15. Holes like these are awkward to fix because there‘s often a void behind the board so any
filler you put in just disappears. This hole came about when a plumber couldn‘t decide where
to feed the pipes for a radiator. But fixing holes in plasterboard can be achieved easily…
16. Cut a piece of plasterboard that is the same width but around 25mm longer than the hole.
Squeeze on some ‗instant grab‘ around the edge of the board and then wind in a long screw
to the centre of the repair piece.
Figure 3.4 cut off surface for hole

17. Jiggle the plasterboard repair piece into the hole and hold it in place for a few seconds to give
the adhesive time to ‗grab‘. Once the adhesive has dried, fully apply filler on top of the
plasterboard insert to bring the repair flush.
Tools required for repairing plaster
 Plasterers trowel
 Two buckets
 Face mask
 Hand brush
 Old paintbrush
 Mixing stick
 Dust sheet or old towel
 Kitchen fork or scarifies

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Tools for Removing Paint
The manual paint scraper is the most basic tool for removing paint and rust. It's especially handy
for working in corners and tight spaces. A metal brush attached to a cordless drill is great for
removing paint from metal surfaces. Move the brush back and forth against the surface of the
metal. An electric grinder may be used at low speed for removing paint from wood or metal.
Choose a model with depth controls, which allow you to hit the surface lightly or more deeply.
Heat guns are a high-tech tool for removing paint from wood surfaces. Gloves are essential when
using a heat gun because the tool can heat up to 1,000 degrees. To use a heat gun, wave it back
and forth about 1" above the painted surface. Continue to keep the gun moving constantly to
prevent scorching the wood. When the paint starts to bubble, remove it with a scraper. Finish the
job by rubbing mineral spirits on the surface.
 Sandpaper Basics
Power sanders are great for smoothing large surfaces, but for sanding tough areas, a sheet of
sandpaper is best. Here's a guide on how to choose the best sandpaper for any project. All types
of sandpaper come in a range of grades, or grits, from course to fine. But not all sandpaper is the
same some works better for specific jobs than others.
Drywall sandpaper is used to smooth joint compound between sheets of drywall. It's durable and
can withstand rinsing and reusing.
Between-coats sandpaper is used for sanding between coats of paint to ensure a smooth surface.
Surface-removal sandpaper is used specifically for latex paint and has a fine grit.
Aluminum-oxide sandpaper is used for sanding hardwood. When using any kind of sandpaper on
wood, sand in the direction of the wood's grain, never across the grain.
Garnet sandpaper is particularly good for smoothing sharp edges in wood. Silicone-carbine paper
is generally used to remove varnish from wood. Emery cloth is good for removing rust on metal
or dulling the sheen of a piece of metal.

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3.7 Clean surface of material
3.7.1 Steps for brushing Surface Preparation

People tend to put a lot of emphasis on paint finishes. Of course, the importance of a new and
sparkling paint film of a well-chosen color can't be over stated. After all, this is what they will be
looking at after the paint has dried. But if this look of a freshly painted home is to last, one must
not underestimate the importance of proper surface preparation.
Listed below are preparation steps for both interior and exterior paint jobs. These steps do not
cover all of the possible circumstances that one can encounter on a painting project, only the
more common ones.
 Interior Paint Preparation Steps
 Wash the walls if accumulated dirt is a problem. Any household detergent will work. Use
TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) for grease or a heavy build-up of cigarette smoke. If you use
powdered TSP, be sure to rinse it off with water. Use chlorine-based bleach on mildew.
 Using a scraper or a spackle blade, remove all loose paint and sand down the rough ridges
where the paint has broken off. Dig out any cracks a fraction of an inch on both sides so as to
form a 'V' shape. This increases contact area for your patching material to adhere to.
 Apply spackle to cracks, holes and heavy paint ridges. Two thin patch coats are always better
than one thick coat. Spackle that's too thick tends to shrink and crack as it dries. In deep
holes and cracks, I like to use "Fix-All" for the first patch coat. "Fix-All" is difficult to sand
so keep it in the crack or hole, slightly recessed below the surface of the wall, then follow it
up with a thin coat of spackle.
 If the existing wall has something other than a smooth texture, your patch should match that
texture as closely as possible. You can create a stippled effect by dabbing the surface with a
sponge or stiff bristle brush while the patching material is still tacky. You can also roll a coat
of stipple paint or thinned out joint compound on top of a dry patch.
 Use latex caulk to seal joints around door jambs, window casings and baseboards. Wide and
deep cracks may require more than one application. Use a damp rag to wipe off any excess
caulk.
 Sand all glossy surfaces or treat them with liquid sandpaper. This provides a roughened
surface or "tooth" for good adhesion of a subsequent coat.
 Primer Application

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No matter what type of surface you're painting, it has to be clean, free of loose or cracked paint,
rust scale, oil, grease, dirt, mildew and chemical residue before application of primer.
Primer or undercoat has two main purposes:
1. to seal the substrate in order to prevent the chemistry in the substrate from migrating into and
interfering with the chemistry of the finish coat;
2. to help bind the finish coat to the surface being painted.
There is a specialty primer for just about every type of surface - wood, masonry, metal, etc.
Essentially, the primer serves as a foundation that supports the finish coat. Understanding this
should help you understand the importance of primer. The best primer available is going to be
your best choice for any paint job.
 Exterior Paint Preparation Steps
Before any other work is begun, check for leaks and any moisture getting into the substrate.
Repair any roof leaks, gutters, windows and leaky plumbing. Damp basements and other
excessively humid interior rooms are other common sources of moisture in the substrate. Use
vents and dehumidifiers as necessary. Unless the source of moisture in the substrate is found and
eliminated, the quality of your paint job will be compromised.
 All exterior surfaces will need to be washed to remove mildew, dirt and excessive chalking.
Consider using a power washer if there are more than 500 square feet of surface to wash.
Mildew has a blotchy and powdery appearance. It is a living organism that's common in
damp areas which get little sunlight. Any surface that has mildew must be completely
sterilized before painting. Wash the mildewed surface with a mixture of one quart of
household bleach in a gallon of water.
Chalking is loosely-bound powder that forms on the surface of paint. Chalking happens when
paint binder is destroyed by sun and moisture. Scrape, sand and wash off all chalking before
primer application.
 On stucco, thoroughly scrape off loose paint. Repair all cracks and holes. Fill gaps around
windows, door casings, or where two materials meet such as at the foundation line or where
wood meets masonry. Use caulk or elastomer-based patch to fill these cracks. (Elastomer is a
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polymer with the property of high elasticity. The term derives from elastic polymer.)
Cracks of 1/16" wide or larger should be chiseled out a fraction of an inch on both sides so as
to form a 'V'. This increases the contact area for the patching material that you will be using.
If you use a non-textured stucco patching material, texturize the patched area to make it
approximate the existing stucco. You can use a coarse fiber brush, like a scrub brush, for this
purpose. Rub the brush over the partially set patch in a circular motion until the repair looks
like the rest of the wall. If you are using elastomer-based patch, take an old brush, dip it in
water and feather out the edges of the patch.
Remove any efflorescence (calcium deposits) with a stiff-bristled brush. Then neutralize the
salt with a 5% solution of muriatic acid. Rinse thoroughly with clear water.
Use good exterior primer or surface conditioner for previously painted stucco. Because of the
chemical reaction that occurs in the newly applied stucco, the new stucco must be allowed to
properly cure and then primed with alkali resistant primer.
 On wood surfaces, thoroughly scrape off all of the loose and cracking paint. Sand it to
remove any remaining loose paint and create a smoother surface. Consider stripping if more
then 25% of the coating is cracked or peeling. In stripping, chemicals or heat is used to
completely remove all of the existing coatings down to the substrate. When multiple coatings
are present, stripping may be the best way to prepare the surface. However, because of the
laborious nature of the stripping process, costs vs. benefits will need to be evaluated. Inject
caulking compound into any cracks around windows, doors and all open vertical seams. Use
good quality exterior wood primer.
Note: Do not caulk the horizontal seams between siding planks. Because siding planks
overlap each other, this opening almost never is a source of a leak. On the contrary, caulking
of these joints can cause moisture to be trapped in the substrate.
Note: Never use an inflexible patching material, such as spackling, in a shallow depression of
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an exterior surface. This is because exterior surfaces (and wood, in particular) undergo a
greater degree of contraction and expansion due to humidity and heat fluctuation in a
substrate. If your patching material does not move at the same rate, it will tend to crack and
cause premature paint failure. If you must use patching to smooth out shallow imperfections
(like paint ridges), use elastomer based products that will move with the substrate as it
expands and contracts.
 When you're painting iron or steel, the most important thing is good contact between the
surface and the coating. These metals rust when air and moisture get under the protective
coating. Rust is like cancer. Once it is in the metal, it is virtually impossible to get rid of.
That's why surface preparation is so important. Use a good rust inhibitive primer.
 Rusting metal must be sanded to remove loose rust scale, then cleaned and primed with rust
inhibitive primer. Punch in rusting nails to set them slightly below the surface. Spot prime
the nail heads with rust inhibitive primer and fill the nail holes with epoxy filler.
 Galvanized metal comes from the factory with a residue of the manufacturing process that
prevents good paint adhesion. It is best to let galvanized metal surfaces wheather for about
six months. Weathering tends to neutralize the surface, making it more ready to accept paint.
If you have to paint galvanized metal right away, etch the surface with a mild acid such as
vinegar. Rinse the surface thoroughly and then apply a coat of galvanized metal primer.
As mentioned before, good surface preparation is essential for a lasting paint job. The most
expensive paint, the best painting technique and the finest brush will not compensate for even a
single needed but skipped preparation step. Skimp on surface preparation and you will literally
cut years off the useful life of your paint job.
Pressure washing services:
 Pre-build and Post-build
 Cleaning the exterior walls, floors and roofs
 Pressure cleaning building interiors (cement, asphalt, etc.)
 Cleaning of windows and frames.
 Pressure washing dirt and dust form surfaces and floors.
The many advantages of building washing
 Regular building washing or house washing will ensure longevity of the paintwork.
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 Any dirt and dust build-up and also stains and mould is effectively cleaned and washed
away instantly.
 If you are planning on selling your property, a building wash will help increase the value
of your property significantly.
 The curb appeal of your home is greatly improved
The Building Washing Process
Stage 1
 Before any building washing or house washing service, the first step is preparation. Your
friendly building washing specialist will prepare and take precautions before the actual house
washing is carried out.
 We will take the time to walk around your house to check outdoor items are a safe distance
from potential spray and will help you move any delicate items.
 As part of the preparation, we make sure no windows and doors are open.
 We make sure your car is not parked in the driveway, or we will ask you to park it in the
garage or away from the house.
 We make sure the electrical box and other electrical equipment are covered.
 We will cover and protect things on the deck, balcony, or patio that is not waterproof.
 Any gaps in the windows or doors will be sealed, so that water will not seep in.
Stage 2
After preparing the house, a safe, non-toxic cleaning product is sprayed on all the external
surfaces like walls, railings, poles, roofing, gutters, eaves etc. This will help release the dirt
build-up, mould and stains. After the cleaning solution is sprayed, then the surfaces are scrubbed
using a soft bristle brush or broom and this helps remove any embedded stains and dirt.
Stage 3
Water is used to rinse the surfaces. All the grime stains and dirt are removed effectively. And the
house washing process is completed.
Services offer a bi-annual washing schedule to help you manage the ongoing maintenance of
your property, ensuring it stays clean all year round. Combining external and internal window
cleaning to a Building Wash will not only ensure your entire property will be immaculate but
you will receive a discount when you bundle the two services together. Simply ask us about this
when booking your job.
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Scraper surface
Application methods before patching
Figure 3.7 .1 application method
 Related Articles
Textured walls can bring character to your room and help hide imperfections in the wall surface,
but they can also make your room look dated or have an industrial feel, depending on the texture
design. Removing the texture is a messy, although uncomplicated, process. Once the texture is
gone, you have the option to add a different, more pleasing texture to the walls or to keep it as a
smooth surface ready to be painted.

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Removing Texture
Before you can add a new surface to you wall, you must remove the existing texture. Spray
a small area of the wall with water from a spray bottle, then let the water soak in for a few
minutes. Scrape the texture off the softened area using a wide floor scraper, holding it an
angle so you don't damage the wall surface behind the texture. Keep scraping until the
texture is removed on all the walls. Make sure to keep drop cloths or tarps on the floor
and over furniture during this process.
Smooth Walls
To make smooth walls after you finish scraping off the texture, spread joint compound over the
entire wall surface with a putty knife and sand it smooth. To sand the wall, use a pole sander,
which has a flat sandpaper holder on the end of a broomstick-sized pole. This saves you
significant time over trying to sand by hand. Once the sanding is finished, you can prime and
paint the new smooth surface.
 Add Texture
There are several textures you can add using joint compound. Mix
the compound with water, starting with 1 part water to 4 parts compound; you can add more
water or more joint compound if necessary to get the consistency you want. Spread joint
compound over a small area with a putty knife, then create your design. You can use a smaller
putty knife to make a type design by sliding it in small, quick strokes across the compound,
varying the direction of the strokes. Use a comb or small-notched trowel to make straight lines or
swirl patterns. You can also sweep the end of a broom across the compound for a lighter textured
pattern. Dab a sponge into the damp compound for a more stenciled look.
Scraping is an effective way

of removing old wall covering
and flaking paint from the
surface of walls.
Figure 3,7.2 scraping surface

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A wall scraper is a useful tool
for preparing a wall for new
wallpaper.
Scraping a wall will ensure
that it is as smooth as
possible, as you can remove
any other unwanted material
such as glue or varnish.
Figure 3, 7.3 figures scraping for wall paper
Painting and wallpapering often require a crucial first step: scraping off what's already there.
Dozens of scrapers are available, and your choice should be determined by the task.
Straight scrapers are good for removing softened paint or soaked wallpaper. Specialty scrapers
come with curved edges for working on corners and curves. Some straight scrapers come with
plastic handles that increase comfort and make it possible to use more pressure.
Putty knives come in handy before painting to ensure that the surface is smooth. Apply putty to
the tip of the knife to fill in cracks or divots in the work surface. Allow the putty to dry before
you paint, stain or apply wallpaper to a surface.
 Tools For Removing Paint
The manual paint scraper is the most basic tool for removing paint and rust. It's especially handy
for working in corners and tight spaces. A metal brush attached to a cordless drill is great for
removing paint from metal surfaces. Move the brush back and forth against the surface of the
metal. An electric grinder may be used at low speed for removing paint from wood or metal.
Choose a model with depth controls, which allow you to hit the surface lightly or more deeply.
 Sandpaper Basics
Power sanders are great for smoothing large surfaces, but for sanding tough areas, a sheet of
sandpaper is best. Here's a guide on how to choose the best sandpaper for any project.

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All types of sandpaper come in a range of grades, or grits, from coarse to fine. But not all
sandpaper is the same some works better for specific jobs than others.
Drywall sandpaper is used to smooth joint compound between sheets of drywall. It's durable and
can withstand rinsing and reusing. Between-coats sandpaper is used for sanding between coats of
paint to ensure a smooth surface. Surface-removal sandpaper is used specifically for latex paint
and has a fine grit. Aluminum-oxide sandpaper is used for sanding hardwood. When using any
3.8 Selecting patching area

kind of sandpaper on wood, sand in the direction of the wood's grain, never across the grain.
Seal Patch Repair Kit is an easy and effective way to patch and repair damaged bridge seal
glands used in strip seal & modular expansion joints. This repair is a cost effective solution to
damaged seals in substitute of replacing the entire seal gland of the strip Seal Patch Repair Kit
Figure 3.8.1 seal patch
Seal and modular expansion joint.
Product Features
 Forms a durable, weatherproof, non-slip barrier on the seal gland

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 Resistant to rain, snow, sun, wind, hail, air, moisture, UV degradation, extreme
temperatures and natural weathering
 Blocks out air, water, and moisture
 Prevents rust and corrosion
 Mildew and chemical resistant
 Non-hazardous
 Non-flammable
Directions
1. Protective clothing is recommended prior to starting any projects.

2. Make sure the surface is clean, dry and free of grease, oil and dirt.
3. Increase adhesion by etching surface with sand paper.
4. A piece of Styrofoam is cut to the size of the damaged hole or slit of the seal gland.
5. The Styrofoam piece is then glued to the damaged area using a two-part adhesive.
6. The Seal Patch laminate is applied on top of the Styrofoam wedge and surrounding area.
7. Additional reinforcement tape is applied on top of the Seal Patch laminate.
8. You can brush, roll, dip or pour the liquid Seal Patch directly onto the surface of the
reinforcement tape.
9. Allow each coat to dry completely (24 to 48 hours) before adding additional coats.
10. Liquid Seal Patch fully cures in 48 hours.
Tips for Brushing/Rolling Applications
1. Brush or roll Liquid Seal Patch using an even sweeping motion.

2. Apply several even coats until the surface has been completely covered and all cracks and
holes have been filled.
3. Always brush or roll over a larger area than just where the leak occurred.
Cover the Damage with Joint Compound

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Figure 3.8 .2 cover the joint damage joint
If the surface you are dealing with has a chronic bubbling problem or you are repairing
bubbling in fresh paint, using setting-type joint compound, or mud, for this repair will
minimize the chance of the blisters recurring. Ready-mixed compound tends to add too much
moisture to the surface and can induce bubbling in the finish.
Mix some mud and apply a skim coat over the damaged area. Use a joint knife held at an angle
to "butter" the surface with back and forth strokes.
Immediately skim the excess mud from the surface to leave a thin covering over the damage.
Hold the knife at about a 30° angle and press down hard, but not hard enough to dig into the
surface. Skim from one side to the other without stopping. Scrape the collected mud from the
knife onto the rim of a mud pan and continue skimming the remaining mud in parallel strokes,
cleaning the knife after each stroke.
Ignore any ridges left between the rows by the edges of the knife blade, these will be removed
later. Around the perimeter of the patch, skim the mud as thin as possible to help blend it into
the surrounding wall. Let the mud set for about 30 minutes.
Apply a Second Coat of Joint Compound

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Figure 3.8.3 apply second joint
When the mud is dry, scrape off any ridges using the joint knife to cut them off with upward
strokes of the blade. Also, lightly sand the whole patch if necessary to smooth out any other
bumps or protrusions before applying another coat. At the edges of the patch, sand to feather
the mud with the surrounding surface.
Wipe the sanding dust off with a damp rag and apply a second coat of mud, skimming
perpendicular to the first coat. If you skimmed the first coat vertically, apply the next with
horizontal strokes. This will help to level out the surface.
Let the second mud coat dry, and if necessary, apply another to build up the patch until it hides
the damage and smoothed out the wall. As before, skim the mud stroking perpendicular to the
previous coat.
Sand and Touch up the Repair
Figure 3, 8.4 sanding face

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Let the patch dry well and then sand it using light pressure, in wide back and forth strokes.
Along the edges, sand harder to help feather the patch into the surrounding surface, but avoid
digging into the wall. Wipe the sanding dust away with a damp rag or sponge being careful not
to wipe away the new joint compound.
Let any moisture from the rag dry before priming. If you are repairing bubbling in fresh paint
or a water-damaged surface, prime with the same primer-sealer used before to be sure the
problem doesn't recur. Let the primer dry for an hour or so before touching up the finish paint.
 Cover Cracks with Repair Spray
Stress cracks usually show up around window and door openings. The cracks are the result of
framing movement and are hard to fix permanently. But using spray-on crack repair is a good
way to at least extend the life of your repair. The spray forms a flexible membrane over the
crack that can stretch and relax as the building moves.
If the crack is open, fill it first with patching compound. Then follow the instructions on the
can to cover the crack with the crack-repair spray. Let it dry and cover it with paint to finish
Fill a Row of Holes with One Swipe

Professional drywall tapers always fill a row of screw holes with one long stripe of joint
compound, rather than filling every screw hole separately. In addition to being faster, this
method disguises the screw holes better and makes it easier to sand the patch. Instead of standing
around each hole, you can just sand the whole stripe.

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Self-Check -3 Prepare surface
Directions: multiple choices
I choice the correct answer from the given alternatives on space provided
1 What is the simple fix for loose plaster?

A drill holes spaced C secure the plaster
B Squirt plaster adhesive D all
2 Apply a second coat to raise the surface of the patch
A scrape the mudded area C mud dry overnight
B Apply a second thin coat D all
3. Concrete patching materials can be purchase
A premixed in bag C Port land cement
B Raw material D all
4. The first finish the of the surface and achieve------------?
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A wood float B blocks C magnesium trowel D all
5. All joints should be raked brick and stone masonry are
A 10mm and 15mm B 15mm and 20mm C 10mm and 20mm D all

Answer Sheet 1. -------------
2. --------------
Name: _________________________ Date: ____________
Operation Sheet 3 Prepare surface
The techniques for Applying Pointing putty jointer tool to fill indent and form joints.
Steps 1- wear safety PPE !

Step 2- select tools and equipment to fill holes depression!
Step 3- Implement surface gently to remove loose materials!
Step 4- Apply 1st coat of putty point in vertical top to bottom, left to right!
Step 5- Apply the next coat after the 1st is stiffed!
LAP Test Prepare surface
Name: _____________________________ Date: ________________

Time started: ________________________ Time finished: ________________

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Instructions: Given necessary templates Applying Pointing putty jointer tool to fill
indent and form joints, perform the following tasks within 3 hours.
Task 1: clean the tools and equipment‘s
Task 2: Reuse the rubbish of mortar
4.3 Prepare underlay and sheeting substrates

4.3.1 PATCHING, LEVELING, RE-PITCHING
Before applying the Ultra Surface Trowel Knockdown Finish the surface should be semi-
smooth to achieve the best results. If needed, patch any holes, gouges or deteriorated areas of
the surface with an Ultra Surface Polymer Concrete Patching Mix. The polymer concrete
patching mix can also be used to fill in low spots, level an uneven surface or re-pitch areas
with improper drainage. See the Ultra Surface Products Manual under Patching and Leveling
in Section
4.3.2 Surface preparation
This section deals with the preparation of the surface to which the plaster is applied, i.e. the
substrate. Aspects discussed are substrate properties; techniques of surface preparation; and
methods of preparing different types of surface.
Surface properties required for successful plastering The surface to be plastered should be
accurately positioned overall and zones should not deviate excessively from a plane (or
curved) surface. Ideally, the substrate should be rough; absorbent to a limited extent; strong;
and clean, i.e. free of any film, such as dust, oil or paint that could impair bond between
plaster and substrate. Plaster thickness should be as recommended) and as uniform as
possible. The more accurate the substrate the easier it is to meet these requirements.
Roughness improves adhesion by providing a positive ―key‖ for plaster to grip. Absorption
removes the water film, between substrate and plaster, which would tend to weaken
adhesion. Excessive absorption will however dry out the plaster. The strength of the substrate
material should be greater than, or equal to, that of the hardened plaster.
4.3.3 Techniques of preparing surfaces
Accuracy
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In new work, surface preparation starts with accurate setting out and construction of walls
and soffits. The aim should be to provide a surface that can be plastered to the required lines
and levels by applying a coat (or coats) of uniform thickness. Excessively thick plaster, or
plaster of uneven thickness should not be relied on to hide inaccurate work. Where zones of
the substrate surface deviate from the required plane (or curved) surface by more than about
10 mm, the first option is to remove high areas by hacking or cutting. If this is not
practicable, apply undercoats to low areas in such a way that the final coat is of uniform
thickness (see section 6.3).In cases where overall thickness exceeds the recommendations
given in section 6.3, it is advisable (and safer) to mechanically anchor the plaster to the
substrate, e.g. with stainless steel studs. This is also recommended when plastering dense
non-absorbent substrates. Strength For new masonry units strong enough to survive handling
and transport prior to being built in should be strong enough to hold plaster. Similarly, in situ
concrete should have ample strength.
Important Note
Gypsum-based plaster should never be mixed with a plaster made with Portland cement. This
is because gypsum is a sulphate compound which attacks Portland cement paste especially in
damp conditions. This attack causes swelling, softening and disintegration of the plaster.
The first coat called the scratch coat is trawled on rather roughly and cannot be made
completely flat because the un coated lath is not very rigid under the process of the trowel.
This first coat scratched while still wet using a broom or special rake to create a rough
surface to which the second coat can be bond mechanically.
When the scratch coat has hardened, it works together with the lath to create a rigid base for
the second application of plaster which is called brown coat.
Purpose of brown coat

 To building strength and thickness
 To present level surface for the application of third or finish coat.
Leveling the surface is achieved by
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 Drawing a long straight edge across the surface of lath by striking of the wet plaster
 On large uninterrupted plaster surface plaster screeds, intermittent spots or strips of
plaster are leveled up to the ground in advance of brown coat.
The finish coat is very thin about 1.5 mm in thickness . it may be troweled smooth or worked
in to any desired texture.
Successful
Once the plaster starts to stiffen, it should be struck off to a plane (or curved) surface using a
light striker board. Material removed in this way should be discarded. If plaster is to be
applied in more than one coat, the undercoat(s) should be scored with roughly parallel lines
about 20 mm apart and 5 mm deep. The purpose of scoring is twofold: to provide a key for
the next coat and to distribute cracking so that it is less noticeable. For the final coat, use a
wood float to remove ridges made by the striker board. At the same time fill in any
depressions and float flush with the surrounding plaster. If a very smooth texture is required,
a steel trowel may be used on the surface. Such surface is however not generally
recommended because it tends to craze and show up imperfections. Various decorative
finishes are also possible. Techniques include brushing, flicking plaster onto the surface and
lightly floating, etc.
In the special case of soft clay brickwork, plaster should be applied as follows:
Using mix with the maximum amount of lime, fill major depressions in the wall and scratch
well. If mesh reinforcement or metal lathing is to be used, nail it to the wall using galvanized
nails driven through the spatter dash coat and use spacers to keep it away from the wall.
Apply the first coat of plaster, again using mix with the maximum amount of lime. This first
coat is used to achieve a plane surface. (In some cases it is necessary to use two coats to
achieve this.) It must be well scratched, cured for at least two days and allowed to dry. The
scratching, followed by the drying period, distributes shrinkage cracks. Apply the final coat
of plaster, using the same mix or preferably a slightly leaner mix. Striking off and finishing
are done as described previously.
Accuracy
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The permissible deviations of plaster work are 3 and 6 mm under a 2 m straightedge for grades I
and II finishes respectively (SANS 10155 : 1980 Accuracy in buildings).
Experience has shown that a grade I finish on masonry walls is not achievable with one-coat
plaster work unless the masonry units have only small dimensional differences and
The accuracy of the wall is excellent.

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Self-Check -4 Prepare underlay and sheeting substrate
Directions: Answer all the questions listed below.

INSTRUCTION I: - Choose the beast answer
1) The application of the mandatory instructions under this OI shall be approved?
A) Authoritative B) Feedback C) Exceptions D) location line
2. Is Appropriate resources shall be allocated to meet the technical and logistical

Supervision needs of the project.
A) Resources B). Supervision C). Records D) Exceptions
3. All activities related to the technical supervision of the
Construction, reconstruction, demolition, repair or renovation of infrastructure works?
A). Risk-based approach
B). Construction Supervision
C). Communication and reporting requirements
D) Authoritative Interpretation
Answer Sheet 1. -------------
2. -------------- 3.----------------------
Name: _________________________ Date: ___________

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OPERATION SHEET-4
OPERATION TITLE: - Prepare underlay and sheeting substrate
CONDITIONS OR SITUATIONS FOR THE OPERATIONS: -
 Wear appropriate clothes, shoe ...
 Ensure the work shop hazard free
 Ensure the working area is bright / good visibility
 Make workstation comfortable
 Use standard & specifications
EQUIPMENT TOOLS
 Hammers, saws, wet and dry diamond saws,
 Power drills and screwdrivers, measuring tapes/rules,
 Cement sheet cutters, straight edges, leveling equipment,
 Concrete mixers, mortar boards, string lines, scrapers,
 Brushes, wire brushes, brooms, sanding blocks,
 Spatulas, wheelbarrows, shovels, wooden floats,
 Trowels, spacers/wedges, squares, buckets,
 Sponges, rags, rubber mallets, lump hammers
PROCEDURE,
 Prepare surface the front or building line in the usual manner with pegs or marks at the
required distance.
 Stretch a line from the peg so that it is parallel to second side of the square and establish
the third peg. A corner of angle 90 degree is thus obtained.
 With the aid of a tape measure mark out the length and breadth of the proposed building.
 After establishing the four corner pegs, profiles (separate or continuous) may be erected
in the same way.
PRECAUTIONS: -use safety tools and material
QUALITY CRITERIA:
-The Trainee can evaluate his success in performing the operation..

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Reference
 Building design and construction hand book by Feredericks. Merritt & Jonattan T.Rickets
 BUILDING CONSTRUCTION HANDBOOK Tenth edition Roy Chudley And Roger
Greeno
 BUILDING CONSTRUCTION HANDBOOK Seventh edition R. Chudley MCIOB and R.
Greeno BA (Hons) FCIOB FIPHE FRSA
 Burnham, T., A Field Study of PCC Joint Misalignment near Fergus Falls, Minnesota,
Report No. MN/RC-1999-29, Final Report. Maplewood, MN: Minnesota Department of
Transportation, 1999.
 David‘s B., EVERFE Theory Manual. http://www.civil.umaine.edu/EverFE. 2003.
 Anderson EL Pawlak Z, Owen NL,Feist WC (1991). Infrared studies of wood weathering,
Appl. Spectroscopy, 45: 641-647.
 ASTM D 2244-93 (2000). Standard Test Method for Calculation of Color Differences from
Instrumentally Measured Color Coordinates.
 ASTM D 3924 (1996). Standard Specification for Standard Environment in Conditioning and
Testing Stain Varnish.

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M06 Surfaces For Finishing Works

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FINISHING CONSTRUCTION

Module Title: Preparing Surfaces for finishing Works

Module code: EIS FCW1 06 1122

Prepared by: Jigjiga Polytechnic College

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This module covers the units:

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 OHS Following Safety

 Follow safety requirements accordance with safety plans and policies

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1.2. Following Safety plans and policies

 Emergency procedures, including emergency shutdown and stopping, extinguishing fires,

 Hazardous materials and substances

 Work site visitors and the public

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 Organizational first aid

 Use of firefighting equipment

 Use of tools and equipment

 Workplace environment and safety.

1.2.1 Personal protective equipment (PPE)

Why do you need PPE?

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1.3.1 Implementing signage Barricading Requirements

1.3.2 Safety Signage Requirements

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Carefully handled hand tools are safe tools!

Figure 4.1 safety tag

1.4.1 Measuring and Levelling Hand Tools

Figure 4.2 sprit level

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Figure 4. 3 plumb bob

Fig , 4.4 Mason line/alignment string

Graphite Pencil This is used for marking in wall

Figure; 4. 6 folding meter

Fig 4.7 Hose level to transfer meter score

Angle / Try square

Figure 4. 8 Try square

Figure 4. 9 Proper adjustment of measuring tape

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Figure 4.10 trowel

Walling Hammer/Mason hammer/

Fig 4.11 Brick hammer

Club hammer and bolster

Figure 4.12 Club hammer

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Mortar barrel/ drum Figure 4.13 flat chisel

Figure 4.14 Bucket

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Figure 4.15 Brush

1.5. Calculating Material quantity

How to calculate cement, sand quantity for Plastering?

Figure 5.1 cement, sand, floating

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Dry volume of plaster = Wet volume x 1.35

Dry Volume = 1.44 x 1.35m = 1.944 m³

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1.5.1 How to Calculate Quantity of Material for Plastering

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1:4 Used for Ceiling and external walls