Concise Handbook Island Madeira 1881

HANDBOOK OF MADEIRA
CONCISE
OF THE ISLAND OF
MADEIRA
lVITH PLAN DF FUNCHAL AND MAP DF

THE ISLAND
By J. M. RENDELL
I ,
~ \'2. PÚ.LIC'D'M'DEI~
.RQUIVO REGIONAL E BleUOT ()
~.o OJ,3 il:t 8

LONDON
C. KEGAN PAUL & CO., 1, PATERNOSTER SQUARE
\~ )
1881
(77« ,'igl.ts or translation and o/ ,'epl'oductiO/l al'e ,'ese1'ved,)
PREF .AGE.
THE object of this little work is, in some mea-

sure, to supply the want felt by all who .visit
Madeira of a concise hanelbook containing prac-
tical information. Many, and amongst them
excellent, works have been written on the island,
all sharing the fate of quichly going out of print
fOI' want of circulation sufficient to pay expenses.
At the present time there is no guide of any
kind to be bought, although a little work in
Freneh, treating of the climate, has just been
written by Dr. Goldschmidt, anel published in
Paris. * It is hoped that the size and price of this
handbook may secure it such a sale as to justify
the venture. Copies of former works, in which
scientific and other mattel's are treated at large,
* "Madcl'e, étudiée comme station d'hi ver" (Delahaye).
although not now purchasable, may often be
met with in the island; by far the best, of a
general character, thus published, is .White's
Handbook (Johnson's Edition, 1860). The most
recent work is Dr. Gl'abham's, in which the
medical question is the one chiefly dealt with,
but bhis also is now out of print.
CONTENTS.
CIIAPTF.H PAr.v,
I. GEOGRAPHlCAL DESCRIPTION 1
II. REMARKS ON CLIMATE 6
III. MODES OF ApPROACH, OF LrVING, ETC. 16
IV. HISTORICAL SKETCH 28
V. GENERAL DESCRIPTION o • •
39
VI. GENERAL INFORMATION AND TABLES 73
ADDENDA &4
HANDBOOK OF MADEIRA.
CHAPTER r.
GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION.
MADEIRA is the principal island in the group oí
the name, and is situated in the North Atlantic,
neady due west of Mogador, West Afl'ica, between
32° 37' and 32° 51' north latitude and 16° 37'
and 17° 16' west longitude. The remaining
islands of the group are, Porto Santo, 23 miles
N.E., the three Desertas, 11 miles S.E., and the
Selvagens, more than 100 miles S.; except Porto
Santo, they are mere uninhabited rocks, of little
value; together they, with Madeira, form an
integral part of the kingdom of Portugal, as the
" districto " of Funchal.
The capital of the island and district is the
city of Funchal, population 21,000, situated on
the southern coast of Madeira, and the only im-
B
2 HANDBOOK OF MADEIRA.
po1'tant town in the g1'oup. It is the residence

of civil and military governors, and of the Roman
Catholic bishop.
Madeira, as are ali the islands of this and
neighbouring groups, is a volcanic mass. It
rises, in Pico Ruivo (N.E. centre) to a height of
6050 feet; the extreme length, from Ponta de
8. Lourenço (E.) to Ponta do Tristão (N.W.) is
about 38 English miles; the extreme breadth
from Ponta da Cruz (8.) to 8. Jorge (N.) is
about 16 English miles; the extent of coast
line, about 110 English miles; the area is
variously and diversely stated; the depth of
water is very great all l'ound; at Cape Garajáo
(E. of Funchal) it exceeds 100 fathoms within
half a mile. The characte1' of the island is
irregular in the extreme: mountain ridges and
peaks sepa1'ated by deep valleys and yawning
chasms are the chief features. At the bottom
of these valleys are stony torrent beds, almost
01' quite dry in summe1', but in winter affol'ding
exit to the sea for rapid streams, which 1'ush
ove1' them with noise and confusion. The coast
line is bold and very precipitous on the northern
side, often rising like a mighty wall from the
sea, dangerous and fo1'bidding. Landing places
GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIP TION. 3
are few and bad. On the southern side there

is a gradual slope from the central mountain
ridge to the sea, and some good beaches,
with easy landing places, are formed; such are
those at Machico, Santa Oruz, Funchal, Praia
Formosa, etc.
The mountain peaks are either grouped, as
Picos Ruivo, Oanario, Torrinhas, Torres, Oidrão,
Arrieiro, etc., in the N.E. centre, 01' more
isolated, as Pico Ruivo de Paul (W.); other
notable peaks are do Poiso, do Infante, do S.
Antonio, Grande, do Ferreiro, etc. Some of the
more remarkable passes are Portella, Lama-
ceiras, Torrinhas, and Encumeada de S. Vicente.
Picturesque valleys are, do Machico, do Ribeiro
Frio, do Ribeiro da Metade, do Ribeiro da J anella,
and the great and little Omrals. The more im-
pOl'tant streams are Ribeiros, Frio, da Metade,
de S. Jorge, do Inferno, da Janella, da Ribeira
Brava, dos Soccoridos; those passing through
the city, viz ., de S. João, de S. Luzia, and de
João Gomes, de Porto Novo; and de Machico;
these are enumerated in order from E. by N.
round the island. ln the same order, the
principal headlands are Pontas S. Lomenço,
do Oortado, Delgada, do Tristão, do Pal'go, and do
Sol, Cabo Giram, Ponta da Cruz, Cabo Garajáo

(the Brazen head), and Ponta da Oliveira.
Madeira has no ports, Funchal bay being an
open roadstead, exposed to winds from S.E. to
S.W., which, however, blow but a small part
of the year; the landing then is difficult, and
even at times dangerous; otherwise the bay is
quite caIm, and the landing safe and easy.
Other little bays with shelter for boats are
Machico, Santa Cruz, and Camara de Lobos.
There are many isolated rocks round the coast,
notably the lighthouse rock at Ponta S. Lourenço;
the llheu (or Loo rock) with its fortress, near
Funchal, on which a red light is exposed at
night ; the arch rock, north of Ponta S. Lourenço,
under which boats pass; the Ilheu de Porto da
Cruz, etc. The only leveI ground in the island
is the remarkable and extensive tableland of the
Paul da Serra (N.W.); S. Antonio do Serra,
(N.E.); and a few small patches here and there.
Besides Funchal, there are other, but unimpor-
tant, towns; they are enumerated in Chapter IV.
Porto Santo, distant from Ponta S. Lourenço,
Madeira, just 23 geographical miles, has a small
town on the southern side, population 1700.
The whole island is only 15 miles round; it has
an elevation of 1600 feet.
GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 5
The Desertas are three: Ilha Chão (N.),

Deserta Grande, and Bugio (S.). To the north
is a curious needle rock, often mistaken for a
ship under sail.
The Selvagens are wholly without interest:
mere rocks producing almost nothing.
Funchal city (lat. 32 0 38' N., longo 160 56') is distant fl'om
Teneriffe ... about 24'() miles N.E.
Cape Cantin (.A.frica) 360 W.
Gibraltar 600 W.S.W.
Lisbon 535
Lizard Point " 1164 "
S.W.
Plymouth " 1215 "
Southampton " 1334 "
Liverpool " 1429 "
S. Maria (nearest Azorean
island) " 480" E.S.E.
The rise and fall of the tide at Funchal is

about 7 feet at full and change, when it is high
water at 12.48 p.m.
6 .
HANDBOOK OF MADEIRA •
CHAPTER II.
REMARKS ON CLIMATE.
WE have already referred to Dr. Goldschmidt's

work on the climate of Madeira, just published
in French, which deals fully with the subject.
The climate of Madeira has given occasion to
talented writing from English medical men; it
is still a matter of much discussion, a moot
point being as to how far the unquestioned
advantages of the equable temperature are
mitigated by the presence of humidity in the
atmosphere. We shall limit ourselves to the
reproduction of a few meteorological statistics,
sufficient for the reader to judge for himself, to
a certain extent. The statistics given are those
of some of the most able and accredited observers
on the subject, and are selected witb a view to
perfect fairness.
REMARKS ON CLIMATE. 7
A few preliminary remarks as to climate may

be useful.
Rainfall in Madeira is not heavy; autumn and
spring are the seasons of greatest wet. It has
been noti,ced that about every twenty-five years
there is a season of unusual rain; such un-
doubtedly was the one of 1879-80.
The prevailing winds are N.N.E., during
which a back westerly current is felt at Funchal.
Mr. White, in his handbook, states that
there is seldom dew in Funchal, although often
profuse higher up. During the latter part
of September or early October there are fre-
quent - and heavy showers, with W. 01' S.W.
winds. January, February, and March are the
coldest months, when snow oíten rests on the
mountains, although never descending below
2500 feet; but the invalid then rieeds to be
especially cautious, because of cold winds blow-
ing from the snow. Mists 01' fogs are unknown
in Funchal.
Dr. Heineken described the months thus:-
" Autumnal rains commence generally towards
end oí September and terminate in December;
they have more the character of violent and
intermitting showers than incessant daily rains.
The wintel' l'ains set in and prevail more 01' less

throughout J anuary and February, and are far
more decided and tropical. March and April
are showery and windy; May, fine, with a pass-
ing shower; June, July, August, ánd part of
September we have seldom a drop of rain."
The Sil'oCCO 01' "Leste" wind, which occa-
sionally blows across from Africa, principally
during the wal'mer months, increases the heat
by several degrees whilst it lasts, and is felt
more the higher one ascends; it is not un-
healthy, though trying; it is extremely dry as
well as hot; it comes E.S.E. from the African
desert, and frequently leaves deposits of sand.
The temperature on the hills during a " Leste"
has been recorded at 91°; nothing keeps good
whilst this wind lasts, which, however, is seldom
more than three 01' five days at a time.
The movements of the clouds are very regular
and systematic ; the hills being generally clear
in early morning, the clouds descend with the
day, br~ak off again towards evening, a ballk
forms at night, and the nights are clear.
Twilight is of short duration; and whilst in
Funchal there is no sudden change at sunset,
yet invalids would do better to go indoors at the
time.
REMARKS ON CLIMA TE.
The hot summer weather may be avoided

by a move up the hills, where little fumished
cottages are to be had for the warmer months.
Near the Mount Church, at an elevation of 2000
feet, the temperatme, even in midsummer, is
only pleasantly warm. Many visitors who
remain in Madeira for the summer, obtain a
cool and pleasant change at Santa Cruz, Santa
Anna, Camacha, etc.
It sometimes happens that a stl'ong sea breeze
blows at Funchal" whilst at an elevation of 500
feet there is a perfect caIm. ln the sarne way
a breezy day up the hills is often a very caIm
one in the city.
It may be intel'esting to state, that whilst
Madeira is still much used as a l'esort for con-
sumptive patients, it is being more and more
used and appreciated as a quiet resting-place for
persons out of health generally, harassed busi-
ness men requiring a change, etc. It possesses
immense advantages for such, not only in its
agreeable climate and its scenic beauty, but also
in the excellent accommodation provided, and in
the facility and variety of modes of appl'oach and
departul'e. It is frequently made a resting-place
in a tom, as will be shown in the next chapter.
We may now give some of the statistics as to

temperature, etc., already referred to.
The mean annual temperature is variously
stated at 64°, 66°, and 68°. .
Professor Dove, in his report to the British
Association (1847)? gives the mean temperature
for the various months as-
January 63·50 July 72·50
February 63·14 August 73·58
March 64·22 September 73·94
April 64·40 October 71·06
May ... 64·76 November .. . 67·64
June ... 68·72 December ... 63·86
Dr. Gourley gave as the result of eighteen

years' observations, at an elevation of 400 feet,
for-
January 61 July 73
February 62 August 73
March 61 September 72
April 64 October ... 68
May 65 November 65
Jane 66 December 64
Drs. Heineken and Renton, at an elevation of

89 feet (years 1826-31)-
January 59·71 July 70·04
Febrnary 60·28 August 71"88
March 61·86 September 71·28
April ... 62·03 October 66·76
May 63·44 November 63·96
June ... 66·90 December 61·44
REMARKS ON CLIMA TE. 11
Mr. White (1850-51) gives the following, taken

at Funchal and at Machico, at 132 feet above
sea and 35~ feet above ground, and 421 feet
above sea respectively, viz. :-
ÂT FuNCHAL. AT F[."NCHAL.
J anuary 62'18 October 70'58
February 64'94 November ... 66'85
March ... 64'63 December .. . 62'80
April ... 68'35 J anuary . .. 62'78
May 69'43 February .. . 60'31
ÂT M ACH ICO. March 63 '57
June ... 66'84 April ... ... 65'54
July ... 69'82
Aug ust 70'71
September ... 70'01
From the same observations he gives the

mean daily range for each month as-
Ja.nuary ... 7'08 September ... 4'23
February 5'71 October 4'14
March 5'67 November 6'30
April ... 6'31 December 5'56
May ... 5'48 January 6'33
June 3'54 February 7'01
July 2'87 March .. . 5'58
Angust 4'01 April ... 5'63
Various observations combined give the mean

temperature for the seasons-at, winter, 61 ·34 ;
spring, 64·23; summer, 69·77; autumn, 67·36.
The average day and night ranges may be stated
at 9° ; extreme ranges, 5° to 15°.
Observations are now taken daily at the
Government Observatory in the Palace, Funchal.
They are published in the daily papers, 01' may

readily be obtained from Lieut.-Colonel Cunha,
the director. The l'eturns given are by Centigrade
thermometer, to reduce which to Fahrenheit
multiply by 19, adding to 01' deducting from
32, as the marking may be above 01' below Centi-
grade zero. By the above rule we have obtained
the following statistics from the official published
returns for 1876, viz. : -
Mean maximum 'Dfean minimum Menn tempera-

temperature. temperature. ture.
January .... ......... 63 53'50 58'26

February .......... . 64'83 54'32 59'58
March ............... 65'75 55'30 60'53
April.. ........ . ... ... 67'28 56'45 61'86
May .......... ..... .. . 67'70 58'35 63'00
June ... ... ....... ..... 70'12 61'09 65'60
July ........ ... ... .... 75'83 64'15 70'99
August ...... .. ...... 78'78 69'58 74'17
September ... ...... . 78'15 68'85 73 '51
Octcber ... .. ...... .. 74'17 63'84 69'00
November 71'11 61'50 66'31
December ........ .. 68'00 58'44 63'21
The observatory is at an altitude of 80 feet

above the sea, and the observations are taken
three times daily, viz. at 9 a.m. and 3 and
9p.m.
MI'. White gives some interesting statistics as
to temperature during the "lestes" which pre-
vailed in February and August of 1850, viz. :-
Febrnary 22, at Funchal, 75°
23, 77°
24, 74°
,,25, ,,76°
August 27, at Machico, 81° At S. Antonio da Serra, 84°
28, " 83° (elevation of 1910 feet) 91°
,,29, " 77° 5 ' " " 80°
Dr. Grabham's meteorological observations, as

given in his book, coincide pretty well with what
has already been stated. As regards direction
of winds, he gives a note of 340 observations
between November 1867 and November 1868,
showing
263 days of N.E. winds.
8 N.
7 E.
62 W."
340
Presumably the days not included in the observa-

tions were those of southerly wind.
The average rainfall in Madeim, as given in
Johnston's Physical Atlas, is 29·82 inches an-
nuaUy, viz.: Winter, 48 per cent.; Spring, 17 ;
Summer, 4; Autumn, 31.
ARQUIVO REGIONAL
E BIBLIOTECA PÚBLICA
DA MADEIRA
Mr. White's observations (1850-1) give the

following :-
Barometer. Days on which Inches of rain.

rain fell.
Janual'y ... .. . ... ... 3 1'655

Febl"llary ............ 1 '094
March .. .. ........... 9 3'636
April ....... ......... 2 '840
May .. ....... ......... 30'00 5 1'775
June ........ .. ........ 29'49 6 '420
July .... .............. 29'55 4
Augllst .............. 29'56 5
September ......... 29'66 10
October ............. 29'97 12 5'607
November ..... ..... 30'17 1 '090
December .......... 30'11 8 6'877
Jalluary .. ....... . ." 30'20 3 1'529
Febrllary ............ 30'02 12 5'355
March ............... 30'25 O
April ............. . ... 29'93 10 3'800
The humidity of the atmosphere IS given as

under, by Dr. Heineken (1826), MI'. White
(1850), and the Government Observatory (1876) ;
the latter year was a remarkably dry orre :-
Dr . Heineken. Mr. White. Government

Observatory.
Jannary .... ...... .. 70 73 65'4

Febrllary ........ .. 72 75 66'4
March ............ .. 66 69 59'7
April ............... . 65 72 60'8
May ............... .. 78 60'8
Governmeot
Dr. H eineken. Mr. White. Obser vatory.
June ........... .. ... 72 79 66

July .. .. ....... . . .. . 79 78 68'1
Angust 83 73 65'6
September ... .... .. 88 78 65'8
Octobel' . .. .. . ...... 84 74 68'5
November ......... 87 71 73'8
December .... . . ... 82 75 70'9
SatunLtion in each case is 1ÓO.

In conclusion we may give an interesting
compa1'ison, made some years ago by M1'. E.
Vivian, between Funchal and Torquay : -
Torquay. Funchal.
Annual mean temperature 50° 3' 66°

Maximum" 76° 83°
Minimum" ' " 27° 46° 5'
Mean daily range ... ......... .... . . 9° 9' 9° 2'
Days of rain .. ......... . ... .... .... . 155 88
Inches of rain .. , ...... .... ....... . . .. 27 30
Mean humidi ty (saturation 100) 76 73
It may be well to caution the new a1'rival that

ove1' exertion at first 01' indulgence in fruit is
liable to bring on dia1'rhcea, a mild form of which
is thought to be somewhat p1'evalent in the island.
Madeira is a healthy place gene1'ally, and
ordinary complaints assume a mildel' form he1'e
than in England.
16 HANDBOOK OF MADEillA.
CHAPTER III.
MODES OF .APPROACH, OF LIVING, ETC.
How to get there? is the next questiono The

answer is both ready and copious, communica-
tion with Madeira being regular, varied, and
frequento The greatest drawback is the exorbi-
tant, and almost prohibitory fares demanded;
a movement has however been made of late to
lower them. The following table will show at
a glance what the communication is :-
1st Class. 2nd Class.
-J!, s. d. -J!, s. d.
By Union Company's 1919 O 1313 O
Cape Mail Boats, Every Friday
from Plymouth. alternately. Also
By Donald Currie fl'equent extra 1919 O 1212 O
Cape Mail Boats, boats. Return, in either
from Dartmouth. case, 10 per cento off.
The Union Boats leave Southampton on Thurs-

days. The Currie Boáts leave London on Tues-
days. The Union fare includes landing at
Funchal. The passage from Plymouth 01' Dart-
NODES OF APPROACH, OF LIVING, ETC. 17
mouth occupies about four days, and has been

clone many hours under. The vessels of these
lines are first class in every way.
1st Clnss. 2nd Clas •.
B y African S.S. Com- ;E s. d. ;E s. d.

pany's Boats
B Y British and Aíri- Every Saturday 15 O O 13 5 O
can S.N. Company's 01' oftener.
Boats, from Liver-
pool . Return, ;E25.
Passage about SlX days. Good comfortable

steamships. These two companies have occa-
sional boats from Hamburg, monthly 01' oftener,
calling at Plymouth. All their steamers touch
at Canaries, both outward and homeward.
By steamer from Lon- Monthly, at nu- To 01' from Madeira,

don to Madeira and certain dates. ;E12; thence to
Canaries and vice Canaries, ;E3.
VC1'sa
These are good cargo boats, but little suited for

passengers.
By Lamport and OccasionaUy ; ;E15 1st class; con_

HoWs Steamers moro frequently siderablo reduc-
from Liverpool, homeward than tion for famílies,
London, Antworp, outward. and special ar-
Soutbampton, and rangements may
Havre bo made.
C
Sarne steamers to 01' from Lisbon, occasionally,

.fl6 first class. They al'e good comfortable boats,
employed in the Brazil trade.
The Cape and African boats all call at Madeira
homewards. Besides steamers mentioned al-
ready, the Pacific Company's, 01' other good boats,
sometimes call at Madeira to and from English,
French, and Gel'man ports, anel are generally
aelvertised, as doing so, some days beforehanel.
Another way of arriving at Maeleira is viâ
Lisbon, reaching that place either by lanel 01' by
water. Splendiel steamships to and from Liver-
pool, Southampton, London and Bordeaux,
constantly call at Lisbon: fares from Englanel
1)6 to 1)8 first class, reeluction for return tickets.
Overland, the fare .at present is about 1)14
first class, anel 1)10 lOs. seconel; without de-
lays the journey can be done rather under fom
elays; new lines of railway are rapidly ap-
proaching completion, which will much reeluce
both cost anel time of journey. At Lisbon there
is first class English hotel accommodation, at
very moelerate prices (CC Braganza," Durranel's,
etc.). The journey viâ Lisbon is now much in
vogue, in leaving Maeleira rather than in reach-
ing it; it is very pleasant to go to Maeleira
MODES OF APPROACH, OF LIVING, ETC. UI
direct, and to return from it by way of Portugal.

Besides Lamport and Holt's occasional boats,
the following l'lm regularly between Lisbon and
Madeira:
S.S. Luso leaves Lisbon on the 20th of each
month for Madeira and · Azoloes: fares, ~6 first
class, ~5 second class: passage to Madeira,
about two days. On the loeturn voyage she
leaves Funchal for Lisbon about the 3rd 01' 4th
of each month; from Madeira to St. · Michael's
she takes about 2t days, fare ~5 . The Luso
is a first class Portuguese mail-boat, well found
anel officered.
Portuguese African line. From Hull and
Lisbon to Madeira, Cape de Verde, and Portu-
guese Western Africa, steamers from Lisbon,
the 5th of each month: fares, first ~6, second
';{)4. They call at Funchal, homeward bound
for Lisbon and Hull, at the end of each month.
A much needed improvement in this service is
in prospect of being eft'ected.
Passports are never asked for on arrival at
Madeira; but 'to leave, they are indispensable
for persons staying oveI' a montho They cost-
passports, 11s. 7el.; visé on foreign office pass-
port, 8s.; also police ticket, lOd.; loesidence
tickets, for three months, 28., six months, 28. 3d.,

nine months, 28. 5el., 01' twelve months,
28. Sel.; and there is a British consul's fee of
28. 3el.; so that the whole payment is from 138.
upwards. One passport suffices for a family.
We may now suppbse the visitor to have
taken passage by Cape steamer from Plymouth.
Leaving early on Friday afternoon, he may look
for 1and the first thing on Tuesday morning.
Porto Santo being first seen, after passing it on
the 1eft, Madeira is soon reached, and Ponta S.
Lourenço rounded, whenoe an hour's steaming
will bring Funchal into view. On a good average
passage by the splendid new steamers nowem-
ployed by eithel' the Union 01' Currie lines,
Funchal may be l'eached by the forenoon of
Tuesc1ay; a quartel' of an hour after sighting
the city, the steamer shou1c1 be at anchor in the
bay. The beauty of the scenery cannot fai1 to
strike the visitor. After rounding Ponta S.
Lourenço, he will notice the town and fertile
valiey of Machico, the town of Santa Cruz, the
little cottages,like white dots, scatter~d ovar the
llills; and, just coming in view of Funchal, the
Brazen heac1 (01' C. Garajáo), with its remarkable
lay of the strata. The view is charming; the
MODES OF APPROACH, OF LIVING, ETC. 21
situation of Funchal at the water's edge with the

grand mountains at the back being very pictur-
esque; the white clean-Iooking houses, beautiful
gardens, the rich cultivation of the country, and
the varied colou1'ing, form a lovely picture which
one is pleased to gaze upon for a while before
atteneling to landing. The buildings which first
attract attention are, the Lazaretto 01' qua1'an-
tine depôt, to the east, close by the sea; the
Pico fort above the city; the Palace, a large
unsightly yellow building near the water; the
Cathedral, with its tall towe1'; the Church of the
Mount, with its two towers, two thousand feet up
the hill, etc. The flotilla of boats putting off
from the sho1'e will next engage attention; first
comes the health, then the customs officers' boats,
afterwards a crowd, amongst which some con-
taining very youthful divers, who do wonderful
exploits ." in search of money 01' othe1' objects
thrown into the water to tempt them. But the
steamer does not delay, anel the business of
getting on shore must be lookeel to. Probably the
English visitor will put up at one of the English
hotels, in which case a competent representative
will soon find him out, as he is amongst the
first to step on board; he will take charge of
22 HANDBOOK OF l\1ADEIRA.
luggage, and will see to the landing, to the

visitor's entire relief, who need have no anxiety
in the matter. Should the destination be other
than an hotel, lots of boats for hire come along-
side; price must be a matter of previous agree-
ment regulated by circumstances; but it may
help, to state that the regular charge to land 01'
pu t on board is one shilling each person, without
luggage.
The three English hotels are Santa Clara,
Royal Edinburgh, and Carmo (late Miles's);
all gooel houses, thoroughly English, replete
with every cotnfort and convenience, and with
an excellent table d'hôte. The wants of invalids
have special attention. The charge is from
60,000 reis (il13 68. 8d.) upwarels, per four
weeks. Santa Clara is the largest anà finest
house in Funchal, situated at a slight elevation,
half a mile from the beach, commaneling fine
sea anel land views; with garden, lawn-tennis
grounel, etc. The Royal Edinburgh (patronized
by, and named after the Duke of Edinburgh,
when captain of the Galatea) is close to the sea,
surrounded by a good garden. The Carmo is
a most comfortable roomy house, with beautiful
and extensive gardens and lawn-tennis ground;
it commands fine views oí the mountains; there

is a billiard-room attached.
There is a first-class German hotel (late
Schlaff's, now carried on by Mrs. Sheffield), at a
little elevation. The several Portuguese hotels
are only second-rate. There are two 01' three
boarding-houses (Miss Luscombe's, MI'. Jones's,
etc.), whose prices are generalIy 10weI' than those
oí the hotels; and sometimes English residents
take boarders, at J35 and upwards per month.
Furnished quintas, or houses surrounded by
gardens, are always to be had in and near
town. Early in the season there is a good
selection. The rents vary from J350 t::> J3200
for the season, a few even exceeding the latter
figure. Unless for a family, economy and com-
fort are better secured in the hotel. ln going
to a q~tinta, linen and plate are alI that should
be brought from England. As regards clothing,
Mr. White, in his ha;ndbook, recommends
English spring clothing, flannel underclothing,
and calico as better than linen. Luggage, on
landing, is taken to the custom-house, to undergo
what is generalIy the most cursory of inspections.
Linen that has been in use is duty free; plate,
plated articles, furniture, saddles, etc., are duty
free, if a bond be entered into to pay should the

articles not be re-shipped within eighteen months.
The landing from the steamer is peculiar;
the boat is beached before the occupants leave
it, and as the boatmen are elever and active,
accidents are rare, so there need be no anxiety
in the matter. After landing on the pebble
beach, the visitor indisposed to walk may drive
in a bullock-car, ride on horseback, 01' be carried
in a hammock; there are no wheeled convey-
ances, the bullock sledge being a clumsy but
useful substitute. Walking oveI' the slippery
pebble paving is difficult, and the visitor would
do well early to discard" English boots for native
ones, with softer soles, to avoid falling. Horses
are good, sure-footed, and specially shod for the
slippery and steep roads. The hammock is the
easiest mode of transit for invalids; it is slung
to apoIe, and carried swiftly and well by men
trained to the work. The bullock cars seldom
go far from town, but hammocks are taken
anywhere, even where horses cannot go. Shops
in Funchal are fairly stocked, and in many of
them English is spoken. Reference to the
accompanying street-plan will show where those
for various commodities are to be found. There
is an English bakery in the Rua das Murças.

Portuguese money is the only legal tender,
except English gold, which is virtually acceptec1
as Portuguese coin. The sovereign has a fixec1
value of 4500 reis; the half-sovereign 2250 reis.
There is hardly any national golel coinage.
English silver is generally receiveel in the better
shops, but at a eliscount.
There are several Portuguese medical men of
gooel repute, such as Drs. Larica, Vieira, etc.
The only English physician is Dr. Grabham.
The German physician, Dr. Goldschmielt, who
speaks English fluently, has a very large share
of the English practice; both he and Dr.
Grabham have given special attention to chest
cotnplaints. There are several chemists' shops,
anel a good supply of English articles. Snr.
Nunes is the best, 01' only, dentist.
The invalid in Funchal will have limitecl
walking range, owing to the steepness anel
difficulty of the l'oads near the city. The Ne,,'
road and the Santa Luzia levada are leveI
when once reached, but in each case there is
a considerable climb first. Thel'e are three
public walks 01' passeios; two of them, the Praça
Constitucional anel Praça Acaelemica, are weU
stocked with fine shady trees and have plenty of

seats. ln the former the military band plays
two evenings a week, when the walk is much
crowded for some hours.
Provisions are plentiful and, except bread and
imported articles, are cheap. Fish is abundant,
although inferior in flavour to English. Vege-
tables and fruit are also abundant; peas and
beans are plentiful almost all the year. Amongst
vegetables not known in England are pumpkins,
tchou-tchou (tender and gooc1), sweet potatoes,
etc. Bananas are always'to be had; and besides
common English fruits (except gooseberries,
currants, and raspberries) there are oranges,
lemons, figs, grapes, mangoes, pomegranates,
mulberries, Cape gooseberries, loquats, guavas,
custard apples, alligator pears, pineapples, etc.
The last three named are the more prized and
most expensive. The pines grown by Mr.
Hollway are amongst the finest sent to England
from any part of the world, and fetch large
prices. lndian com flour is made into porridge
by the peasants: English people sometimes
relish it.
There is an English club, with reading-room,
library, etc., in Funchal. AClmission is by
MODES OF A~PROACH, OF LIVING, ETC. 27'
ballot, at the following rates of subscription;-

for one month, 12s. 6d i two months, 20s.; three
months, 30s.; six months, 50s.; twelve months,.
~3. It is situated in the Rua da Alfandega, next
door to the British Consulate. The library is
extensive. There are some Portuguese clubs, a
commercial-room, and a public library, rich in
ecclesiastical and other lore. The English and
Scotch churches have also libraries. The Church
of England clergyman is the Rev. R. Addison;'
at present the Presbyterian minister is the Rev ..
J. M. Allen.
The post and telegraph oftices are close·
together in the Rua das Murças. Both open ato
8 a.m., closing at 9 p.m.
Tables, and detailed information, are given in.
Chapter VI.
'28 HANDBOOK OF lIIADEIRA.
CHAPTER IV.
HISTORICAL SKETCH.
'THE Madeira archipelago appears to have been

lmown to the ancients, the Pmple Islands of
Pliny answering perfectly to the description;
but the knowledge of them must have been
quickly lost. Tradition speaks of their h~ving
,been seen in the fomteenth century by Spanish
navigators. But all certain history dates from
1418. when Porto Santo was discovered and
possessed by the Portuguese. Under the aus-
pices of the famous Prince Henry of Portugal,
the Navigator, an expedition was sent out to
,double Cape Bojador in Africa. It failed in its
primary object, but discovered Porto Santo; the
,commanders were João Gonçalves Zargo, and
Tristão Vaz Teixeira. The island was immedi-
ately possessed, the first governor being Pere-
:strello, father-in-Iaw of Christopher Columbus.
HISTORICAL SKETCH.
The island of Porto Santo is of little value; it

produces some corn and wine, and a good breed
of working oxen; but often suffers from want of
water. Its history, subsequent to its settlement
by the Portuguese, has no incident of much
interest, unless it be tl'ue, as asserted by tradi-
tion, that Columbus resided here, with his íather-
in-Iaw, prior to discovering America. The towu
is poor, and the island uninviting, except, per-
haps, to the geologist. When Porto Santo was
first settled the inhabitants were mnch perturbed"
by the appearance, to the west, oí a dark
shadowy mass, genera11y believed to be the
mouth oí he11; for a fu11 year no one of snffi-
cient courage was fonnd to solve the mystery_
At last, Zargo, in a small vessel, sailed towal'ds
it, discovered the lovely "ilha da Madeira," or-
island oí wood, so named by him. on account of
the profusion of timber which covered it, causing"
the clouds to settle and to produce the effect
which so shook the nerves of the "prophetas,"
as the Porto Santo people are ca11ed in Madeira.
Point S. Lourenço was named so after Zargo's
ship; other places along the coast still bear
names given on those first days, such as Machico
from Machin, Santa Cruz (Holy Cross), Cape-
'3 0 HANDBOOK OF MADEIRA.
'Garajáo, from the number of gulls seen on it;

Funchal, the place of "funcho" 01' fennel;
<Jamara de Lobos, the wolves' 01' sea wolves'
(seals) cabin; Cape Giram, Cape "they turn
-round," as being the limit of the first expedition.
The bold adventurers then turned back to Porto
Santo to report the glad tidings, whence they
were speedily taken to Lisbon, and hailed with
great public rejoicings. Zargo and Vaz were
soon sent back as governors, this of the eastern
half with Machico as capital, that of the
western division, capital Funchal. The tra-
,dition concerning Machin, fmm whom Machico
takes its name, is worth repeating, as many
weighty authorities receive it as history. Machin,
an English noble of the second rank, loved a
lady of higher birth named Anna d' Arphet.
Unable to obtain royal consent to marriage, they
planned an elopement, and set sail together for
France, A.D. 1344, in a small ship-manned by
:tive men. Tossed about, and out of reckoning,
by storms, they were at last cast ashore at the
now Machico; the trials of the voyage so tola
upon the lady that she soon succumbed, an,d
Machin quickly followed her. Dying, he left a
-tablet inscribed with the request that any one
HISTORICAL SKETCH. 31
finding it would have a church erected on the

spot, to the name of the Holy Saviour; such is
the dedication of the parish church at Machico.
The crew then set sail for Africa, where they are
Baid to have landed and to have related the
story, . and a Spanish pilot, named Morales, is
said to have repeated it to Prince Henry.
One of Zargo's early acts was to elj.deavour to
clear the woods by fire; so effectually did he
perform it, as to sweep the whole country
round Funchal. The result is still seen in the
bare hills near the Poiso, etc., so different from
the northern slopes where wood abounds. The
fire is said to have burned for seven years,
and to have caused a ;panic, the inhabitants
f[eeing to the mountains.
War with the Moor often drew away con-
tingents from Madeira; Zargo himself had been
much distinguished in the historical capture of
Ceuta.
Subsequent Madeira history may soon be
toldo Funchal was made a city in 1508, a
bishop's see in 1514, an archbishop's in 1539,
returning again to a bishop's see in 1547, when
the archbishopric was removed to Goa in India.
ln 1566, three French privateers landed 1000
32 HANDBOOK OF IIfADEIRA.
marauders, who sacked, pillaged, and murdel'ed

for fifteen days, I'e·embarking just in time to
avoid the rescue squadron sent from Lisbon;
300 persons were killed, and 1,500,000 gold pieces
taken; the inhabitants fied to the mountains.
St. James was chosen as patron saint; the old
fort on the beach is named afteI' him,
During the Spanish occupation of Portugal
1582-1640, Madeira was also occupied, a peI'-
manent result being the amalgamation of the
two governoI'ships into one, at Funchal. The
Pico fort was at this time built by the Spaniards.
Nothing very I'emarkable occurred thenceforward
until 1801, when, by reason of the Peninsular
War, English troops took friendly occupation
Df the island, evacuating it next year, but 1'e-
turning under Beresford, in 1807, and remaining
until 1814. Since then, Madeira history finds
its echo in that of Portugal, except that no
bloodshed characterized the various politicaI
changes in Madeira.
The great earthquake of 1755 was felt, but
not disastrously, in Madeira. A mighty fiood
in 1803 destI'oyed 300 lives, another in 1842
did much damage to property, but destroyed no
lives; in each case a waterspout is supposed
to have burst on the island.
HISTORICAL SKETOH. 33
The vine was introduced from Orete in 1421,

and 1lourished so welI as to gain fair fame and
large demand for Madeira wines; the " oidium,"
however, in 1852, ruined both, and Madeira has
never recovered from the disaster. PhylIoxera
has helped to complete the mischief begun by
the "oidium." The export of wine, which prior
to 1852 exceeded 7000 pipes annualIy, is now
much reduced, but the quality is as good as ever.
Russia is one of the largest consumers. The
various qualities are Bual, Sercial, Malmsey,
Tinta and Madeira. The export of wine from
Madeira to alI parts, during the first six months
of 1880, just exceeded 2200 pipes.
The sugar-cane, now a principal growth,
was introduced from Sicily in 1452, and from '
Madeira was taken to Brazil, the West Indies,
etc. Sugar is made in considerable quantity,
and exported to Portugal, where its sale is
aided by a protective duty on imports from else-
where. The largest mills in and near Funchal
are those of Messrs. Hinton ana. Ferraz. The
busy season is from March up to the summer.
Steam is used in these milIs, but in smalIer ones,
where only spirit is made, watel' 01' ox power.
Flour mills are alI wOl'ked by watel', and are
D
34 HA.NDBOOK OF l\fA.DEIRA..
very primitive. Other native manufactures are

baskets and wickerwork fmnitme, embroidery
(a very important export, giving employment to
many women of alI classes), inlaid woodwork
and walking-sticks, straw hats, coarse linen and
woolIen cloths, feather flowers, etc.; but the
exports from Funchal are limited, and the port
would be of smalI importance were it not for the
fifty 01' sixty largemail steamers, which calI
monthly to coaI and provision in the com"se of
long voyages. The imports are principally from
England and Lisbon, although the little trade
with the United States promises to become
greater with increasing facilities. The Azores
occasionally send grain. The cultivation and
export of pineapples and bananas is on the
increase. Potatoes and Qnions are exported
largely to Demerara, etc.
Newspapers are numerous, but small, and often
of very short life. The Direito is perhaps the
most important, and the daily Diario de Noticias
has a considerable circulation.
As a district of Portugal, Madeira enjoys all
the privileges of the mother country, of which
it is an integral parto Madeira people are not
mute as to Portugal's interest in the island, and
HISl'ORICAL SKETCH. 35
there Is little doubt but that they give more than
they get.
As a district of Portugal it is governed as
those of the continent, being divided into 4
"comarcas," 10 "concelhos," and 47 parishes.
Each comarca possesses a fu11 judicial staft',
competent to de aI with 1\11 questions; the judge
is styled "juiz de direito." Grosser criminal cases
are tried with a jury, who decide by majority.
ln divisions and subdivisions 0f the " comarca"
minor judges have limited jurisdiction; they are
"juizes," " ordinarios," "eleitos," and " de paz:"
the latter being an official peacemaker, who tries
conciliatory measures to avoid litigation; if he
fails the case goes to trial. Each" concelho"
has a chief constable, "administrador," and
each parish a minor police official, "regedor,"
subject to the "administrador." Funchal city
has a uniformed police under a " commissario."
Madeira returns three members to the Portuguese
parliament; two of the present " deputados," as
they are styled, are priests.
The foU!' "comarcas" are: Funchal, Santa
Cruz, S. Vicente, and Ponta do Sol. The follow-
ing list indicates the "concelhos," with the
parishes contained in each; the "concelho"
•
36 HANDBOOK OF MA.DEIRA..
takes its name from a principal town in it,

which is made its head. Towns 01' larger vilIages
are printed in italics in the folIowing list :-
Funchal: Sé, Sta. Maria, S. Pedro and Sta. Luzia (urban) ;
S. Antonio, S. Martinho, S. Roque, Monnt, and S. Gonçalo
(subnrban).
Camara de Lobos: C. de Lobos, Estreito, Campanario,
Quinta Grande, and Curral das Freiras.
Ponta do Sol: P. do Sol, Magdalena, Canbas, Ribeira Brava,
Serra d'Agua, and Tabua.
Calheta: Calheta, Arco de Calheta, E streito de Calheta,
Prazeres, Jardim do mar, and Fajã da Ovelha.
Porto Moniz: P. Moniz, Achadas, Pta. do Pargo, Ribeira da
Janella, aud Seixal.
S. Vicellte: S. Vicente, Pta. Delgada, Boa Ventura.
S. Anna: S. Arvna, S. Jm'ge, Arco de S. Jorge.
Maohico: Machico, Caniçal, Agua da Pena (part), S. Antonio
da Serra (part), and Porto da. Cruz.
Santa Cruz: S. Cruz, Gaula, Agua da Pena (part), S. Antonio
da Serra (part), Cam iço, and Camtacha.
Porto Santo: Senhora da Graça.
Roman Catholicism is established by law,

and alI o:fficials have to swear alIegiance thereto ;
but toleration so far exists on others, that special
laws al'e framed for" Portuguese non-Catholics,"
such as the civil register, etc.; this is but
modern, however, and very recent years have
seen religious persecution by law in Madeira,
whilst forty years ago it was intense. The
preaching of the gospel in houses is not now
interfered with. Convents and monastic insti-
tutions were abolished by law in 1835: monks
HISTORICAL SKETCH. 37
were immediately expelled, and nuns allowed to

die out: some aged ones still linger in the
convents of Santa Olara, Mercês, and Incarnação;
on their decease these convents, as others, will
revert to Government, by whom all the property
has been confiscated. The Jesuits were expelled
from Portugal in 1759. Education is very back-
ward, only a small proportion of the people can
read, but progress is being made. Foreign
languages are much studied by the middle and
upper classes. English is a good deal spoken .
in Madeira, and French still more soo
The English resident population oI Madeira
is much reduced, numbering now a bare 170;
the failme of the wine crop accounts largely for
the diminution.
From the native population there is a continuaI
drain by emigration, chiefl.y from the peasant
class; Demerara formerly took many, now
Brazil and the Sandwich islands take more.
The population of the district, as shown by the
1878 census, is about fom times as dense as
that of Portugal; we append an extract from the
official returns of that census :-
Concelhos. Males. Females. Tola\. Rouses.
Oalheta ..... ........ .. 7,960 8,692 16,652 3,835

O. de Lobos 7,449 7,920 15,369 3,324
Funchal ............ ... 17,792 19,859 37,651 8,006
Machico ............... 5,086 5,130 10,216 2,065
P. do Sol ............ 8,215 8,697 16,912 3,907
P. Moniz ............ 2,187 2,372 4,559 1,007
S. Anna ..... ...... 4,629 4,846 9,475 2,150
Santa Oruz ......... 5,658 5,623 11,181 2,298
S. Vicente ............ 4,142 4,316 8,458 1,930
P. Santo ............... 874 874 1,748 435
Total 63,82 68,329 132,221 28,957
Funchal city (4 parishes) 9,633 10,964 20,597 4,155
The largest parishes outside Funchal are

Camara de Lobos (5829); Ponto do Sol (5144) ;
S. Vicente (4695); Santa Cruz (3826); Ponta
da Cruz (3513).
( 39 )
CHAPTER V.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
BEFORE entering upon a descTiption of the island

generally, a few words about the city of Funchal
may be useful. The visitor must not expect to
see anything which can claim architectural
merit: the houses are all square four-walled
enclosures, often with an unsightly turret stuck
on the top; the public buildings are almost
as unpretentious; yet the neatness of work
and finish in the houses, and the amount
of patient arduous labour displayed in street
and road paving, in the walling up of the sides
of ravines, etc., cannot fail to attract attention.
The most notable edifices are the Cathedral, built
in 1508, mixed ltalian and Gothic styles; the
Collegio, a former Jesuit church, the convent at-
tached has long since been turned into a bar-
racks; S. Pedro, Carmo, and Socorro churches;
40 HANDBOOK OF MADEfiA.
the General Hospital; Princess Amelia's "hos-

picio" ; the Palace, where the governors reside,
a huge ungainly structure; the English,
and the Scotch Presbyterian churches; the
Cus tom House, a formeI' ecclesiastical building;
Santa Clara Hotel; the Court House, a large
dwelling house adapted; the :Qublic abattoir,
markets, etc.; nearly ali indicated in the street
plan given. The gaol, post-office, and telegraph-
office are private houses adapted, the former a
miserable place as well can be. Outside the
city, near and far, are some very pretty
"quintas," such.as quintas" Davis," "Davis do
Monte," "Lambert," " do Palheiro," etc. There
are many educational and charitable institu-
tions, such as the Theological Seminary, the
School of Medicine, the Lyceum, the " Asilo," 01'
poor house, the Leper Hospital, etc. The Laza-
retto, 01' quarantine depôt, a little way out of
town, is a splendid block of buildings never yet
used, mainly in deference to popular prejudice.
On landing from the boat, a taU lank tower will
attract attention; this has a singular history.
It was built in 1796, to facilitate the discharge
of cargo boats; but a great fiood, shortly after,
so extended the beach, seaward, by bringing
- - - --- - - -
GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 41
down earth and stone from the mountains, as
to render the structure useless for the purpose
'designed; it cost .B1350. After eighty years of
idleness, it is now appropriated to a worthy
object, and is used by Messrs. Blandy Bros.
as a signal station to announce the arrival of
steamers, being a public boon. Another monu- '
ment of failure is the remains of , a stone pier,
which was hardly built ere destroyed by the sea.
The steps at the Pontinha are now the only place
f., to embark from, except the beach. The Loo
rock, with its primitive fortress, whence salutes
are fired, may be reached by boat and visited;
the view from it is pretty; it was battered by
Captain Cook in 1768 on account of a sup-
posed insulto Funchal streets are unique;
their narrowness is rather a comfort in warm
bright weath€l·. Funchal, although not rival-
ling English towns in point of cleanliness,
compares favourably with those of Portugal,
Spain, etc. "Places of amusement" are few
and poor.
An object oí interest to visitors is the fish
mal'ket, oí a morning: an eal'ly visit is essential.
Live turtles, enormous tunny-fish, and a great
variety oí bright-coloured, peculiar-looking fish,
42 HANDBOOK OF MADEffiA.
many of them quite unknown to Englishmen,

will be seen. The tunny often weighs several
hundredweight, is coarse but not unpalatable,
and is much eaten by the working classes as
good cheap food; mackerel (cavalla), horse
mackerel (chicharro), John Dory (gallo), grouper
(garopa), red mullet (salmonete), grey mullet
(tainha), sardine (sardinha), braise (pargo), are
generally to be had. A good vegetable and fruit
market has just been opened. The cattle market
is held each Saturday morning in the Campo da
Barca. The" talhos" 01' butchers' shops are
under immediate inspection and control of the
authorities. The water supply of Funchal is
good and abundant: that for drinking pur-
poses from wells and fountains, the best is
under the Palace; for washing, u:rigating,
etc., from the " levadas," 01' watercourses from
the mountains, which run by the sides Df
streets and roads; many of the loveliest walks
in the country are along paths by the side of
" levadas. "
We may now pass to a general description of
the island, in the com'se of which a list of longer
and shorter excursions will be given.
We do not pretend to give more than the
barest outline of scientific information. The

geologist will find a rich fieIa in Madeira; which
is a volcanic mass of gradual formation . It is
related of Cabral that, discovering St. Michael's
(Azores), he fixed upon a certain plain as the
site for a colony. Returning a year later to the
island, his plain capped and tlanked a moun-
tain, thus proving gradual formation. Madeira
presents every evidence of a similar process; it
is supposed to have been upheaved 4000 to 5000
feet by a primary series of eruptions, and at a
later period to have been raised another 1000 to
2000 feet. It consists of basalt in various
forms, l'ed and yellow tuff, ashes, cinders, etc.;
there is a vein of limestone, embedded in basalt,
at S. Vicente in the north, and the islet of
Baixo, near Porto Santo, is a mass of calcareous
rock, apparently an elevated coral reef. Porto
Santo formation differs rrom that of Madeira,
there being a greater proportion of trachytic
than of basaltic rocks. A puzzle to geologists
has been the "fossil bed" near Cape S.
Lourenço; it is now generally conceded that the
apparent fossils of trees, etc., were formed by
"fine calcareous matter being washed into the
casts 01' cavities left by the decay of branches
and roots of thickets buried under drifted sand"

(Johnson's White). There are no important
mineral contents, and no metallic mines; there
are iron pyTites and small quantities of specular
iron at P . do Sol. At S. Antonio (north-west of
Funchal) there is a cold mineral spring, with
carbonate of iron and small quantities of
mUl'iates of soda, but no sulphates have been
detected.
There have been numerous landslips in
various parts of the island; some of them on a
large scale.
The botanist may revel in Madeira: ferns and
mosses are most abundant. Of the formeI' there
are forty-two varieties, two 01' three peculiar to
the island (Polypodium drepanum, Polystichum
falcinellum, and Polystichum frondosum) . A
peasant woman at S. Roque, near Funchal,
supplies collections of ferns for about fourteen
shillings. Plants, trees, and flowers of almost
every land grow and flourish; and even the
casual visitor cannot but remark the rich
profusion of vegetation displayed in every form,
in flowering plants covering walls and houses,
clambering up trees and showing themselves
everywhere, fems, etc. jutting out of almost every
GENERAL DESORIPTION. 45
hole ana cranny. Geraniums, fuchsias, hy-

arangeas, bella donna lilies, roses, etc. grow wila.
To enumerate garden plants woula be to fill a
book: bouganvillrea and hibiscus are profuse,
camellias grow well at Camacha, etc. Mr. White
gives tbe fiowering plants of the Madeira group
as of 364 genera, and 650 species. The native
trees ana slu.'ubs are best ana most profuse at
Ribeiro Frio, Boa Ventura, Serra a' Agua, and
Ribeiro aa Janella; they are twenty-seven,
notably aragon-trees, mountain cedars, two kinds
of heath, myrtle, wild broom, vinhatico (native
mahogany), a wild laurel named "folhado"
(used for hammock poles), bay, til, etc.;
" folhado" and one of the brooms are peculiar to
the island. Oak, pine, and chestnut, grow well
at various and well-defined elevations. Co:ffee
and date palm grow and yield fruit, but are only
cultivated for CUl'iosity; tea will also grow well
up the hills. "lnhame," with its broad leaf,
abounds; it is a kind of arum, tbe root good
for food and much used by the peasantry, the
leaf for pigs only. The common agricultural
products are, besides fruit and vegetables aheady
named, most kinds of grain, fiax, gourds, some
hops in the .north, some tobacco near the
46 HANDBOOK OF J\L\.DEIRA .
Pico fort (it is manufactured in Funchal), etc.

The pine-tree covers otherwise unprofitable land,
and, with bilberry, gorse, etc., is the firewood of
the island.
The zoology of Madeira is of little importance.
When discovered thel'e wel'e no quadrupeds on
the island. The l'abbits, which are rare in
Madeira, but abound on the Desertas, were
imported. The common domestic animaIs have
been introduced, and have become characteristic,
instance the smalI breed of ponies, the Porto
Santo oxen, etc. The cattle generalIy are smalI,
but sturdy; the sheep poor. Goats thrive welI on
the hills, and abound; on the Deserta Grande
they are quite wild, an,d permission to shoot
them may be purchased. The visitor cannot
be long in Madeira without noticing the
paucity of birds. Those found in the island
are kestrels, buzzards, barn-owls, blackbil'ds,
redbreasts, blackcap warblers, grey wagtails,
goldfinches, ring-spal'l'ows, ring-doves, rock
pigeons, red-Iegged partridges, quails, wood-
cocks, terns, hel'ring-gulls, shearwaters, petrels,
Bulwer's 01' Deserta petrels, and wild canaries;
but of alI kinds there are few. Wild canaries-
the original of the tame songster-sing welI;
they are dark green. Deserta petrels are hand-
some birds, with magnificent downy breasts.
Except a few frogs and the harmless but ubi-
quitous little lizal'd, there are few reptiles on the
island.
About the only noxious insects are mosquitoes
(a modern importation) and a poisonous spider
on the Desertas. Mosquitoes are not Yery
abundant. Other insects are death's-head and
humming-bird moths, many species of ants,
many spiders, etc.; in alI, 1200 species (ex-
clusiye of spiders) ; of these 555 are beetles.
The late Mr. Lowe, a welI known scientific
writer on Madeira, speaks of 155 species of land
and fresh-water shelIs; Mr. WolIaston mentions
140, of which 111 are peculiar to the Madeiras.
Dead shelIs in large quantities are found in the
calcareous sands of Porto Santo and Port S.
Lourenço. On the seashore, periwinkles, whelks,
limpets, a few crabs and lobsters, shrimps, etc.,
are found. Mr. McAndrew spE'!1ks of 156 species
of marine shelIs, which he himself owns to be a
Yery imperfect statement. Octopus and other
cuttlefish are found. There is little seaweed.
Some coral and sponge are occasionalIy ob-
tained.
A few words now as to the people, their habits,

modes of life, etc. They are descendants of the
Portuguese settlers. It is supposed that there
is a slight mixture of Negro and Moorish blood,
although history does J?ot relate how 01' when it
occurred. The simplicity of life of the peasantry
can scarrcely be exceeded: dwelling in mere huts,
they live on the simplest of food, and are roughly
attired. They are not cleanly, either in home
01' person. Their appearance is not muscular,
but they are equal to much hard work, and both
men and women carry heavy loads on head 01'
shoulder. The Funchal boatmen, as also those
along the coast, are active, elever, and daring.
The women of the "costa de baixo" use a' pic-
turesque holiday dress: skirts of many-coloured
stripes, red 01' blue tippets, and sometimes a
rather useless head-dress, the carapuça, a little
skull-cap of blue cloth, with a spike in the
centre; the men use it more than the women do.
ln the eastern division of the island, skirts of one
bright colour, as red 01' yellow, prevail. The
people are not musical, although very fond of
music 01' noise. The popular native instrument
is the machete, a small four-stringed guitar,
which can be ma de to produce very agreeable
• GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
musico They are a superstitious people. Almost

the only holidays are those connectec1 with re-
ligious festivaIs, processions, anc1 pilgrimages.
49
They walk long weary distances to perform

vows 01' present such votive offerings as wax
canelles anel effigies. There is generally little
regarc1 for trllth. Stealing is always confinec1
to petty larceny. The moraIs of the upper
classes are not gooel. The people are kinc1-
hearteel anel hospitable, anel generally polite.
Beggars abounel, anel make out piteous tales
which must be receivec1 with much caution.
ln shoppiug the purchaser must be prepareel to
be askec1 much more than the fair price, as it is
no uncommon business practice to ask in excess.
to be beaten c10wn to that which is fair; this is a,
practice even in gooel shops. The peasantry are
slow to receive innovations, anel prefer harc1er
work with the 01c1 ways to more moelern
fashions ; manual labour might often be ac1-
vantageously replacec1 by mechanical, but is noto
Work hours are from sunrise to sunset. The
peasant huts are generally of rough basalt,
thatchec1 with straw; better houses are facec1
anel tilec1. Some wooelen huts are founc1 in the
country; anc1 some curious c1wellings are formec1
E
50 HANDBOOK OF l\IADEIRA.
by caves and holes in the rocks, walled up. The

scoriated basalt, especially that from Camara
de Lobos, makes an excellent and workable
huilding material; limestone comes from Porto
Santo.
A remarkable feature in the cultivation of the
island is the universal terracing, which must
' have cost immense patient lahour. It is ren-
dered necessary by reason of the steep incli-
nation of the country. The limit of cultivation
is about 3000 feet above the sea, and almost
every hole and comer is made to yield its
quotient. As one stands under a huge precipice
and sees a patch of vegetation half way úp, it
is a puzzle to know how this was accomplished.
On the southem side of the island the vine is
trained over trellis work, and frequently extends
over the road, forming a c1elightful canopy; on
the northem side it is often allowec1 to cluster
round trees.
The cultivation of sugar~ cane requires much
irrigation. There is more producec1 on the
southem than on the northem side; Machico
valley yields much. Cattle are principally
reared in the north and south-west. Grain is
more grown in the north. Large box-trees, some-
times twenty feet high, form good hedges. The
size of some of the brushwood is astonishing,
heaths twenty feet high are not uncommon.
Efrorts have been made to introduce the silk-
worm and the cochineal insect, without, however,
any practical results. Prichly pears abound,
but do not seem to be the right kind for the
<lochineal. The present acting govei-nor has
endeavomed to introduce the silkworm, without,
however, much success.
We may now say a few words as to equipment
for, and mo de of, travelling, as well as about
facilities for it.
Hammocks are available for all roads, and,
with relays of men, are carried at a steady pace
of three miles an hom all day. The bearers are
strong, willing, and careful; if from town often
speaking some English, and able to give inform-
ation on the road. They can be had at such
places as Santa Cruz, Machico, Santo da Serra,
Camacho, Santa Anna, S. Vicente, and Calheta.
The traveller can start on horseback to any of
those places, sending the animal back and con-
tinuing the journey by hammock on roads diffi-
cult 01' impossible for horses. ln going up the
hills by hammock, take a wrap for the colder
52 HANDBOOIC OF MADEIRA.
atmosphere, and a mackintosh for possible mist

is convenient. The horses are sure-footed and
good, specially shod for the paved 01' rough
stony roads which are found all over the island;
they traveI about fom miles an hom on ajourney.
Here and there hard clay road 01' turf allows of
a canter, but generally a smart. walk is the most
to expecto Should the traveller be a pedestrian,
his best powers will be needed for Madeira;
steep long climbs (the gradient is sometimes
one in four) , sudden descents, and rough and
slippery roads will put him to the testo H e
should wear native shoes, with low heels 01'
none at all, and must use one of the iro11shod
alpenstocks which are to be had at a small price
in the city.
Maps of Madeira are published. Stanford's
lOs. map, with outline drawings of some moun-
tains, is the best; it can be purchased at the
English club, Funchal. The 2s. Admiralty
Ohart of Madeira, Porto Santo, and the Desertas,
is good; and a clear and fairly correct map of
Madeira is generally to be had in Funchal, price
2s.; the junction of the S. Vicente, RibeÜ'a
Brava, and Paul roads is incorrectly marked 011
the latter. We give a rough map, intended
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
merely to show the general direction of the

roads, position of places, etc. A list of distances
and altitudes is given in Chapter VI., which
may be depencled on, as derived ,from the best
som"ces.
The only hotels outside Funchal are Santa
Cruz (good) and Santa Anna (fair). There are
inns at S. Vicente and Machico (Joã.o Teixeira's);
and Antonio Rodrigues (" Inglez,") at Machico,
occasionally accommodates travellers; he speaks
English. At Ponta Delgada, Bento da Costa,
Sitio do Torreiro, has some one who speaks
English, and he accommodates wayfarers if
previously communicated with. At Seixal, Snr.
Francisco Antonio de Freitas has a good house
at the disposal of visitors; he speaks French.
It is well always to give timely intimation to the
hotel-keepers, etc., before going. This is the
Bum total of accommodation outside Funchal,
unless we mention the Poiso, Rabaçal, and Santo
da Serra refuge-houses, belonging to the authori-
ties, whel'e shelter may be had; but for bec1s,
except at Poiso, the traveller must depend on
his hammock, which can be set up for the pur-
pose; anc1 he must take his own fooc1. At Porto
Mo~iz, Ponta do Pargo, Calheta, etc., unless the
travelIer gets an introduction to such peoplc

as Sms. Manuel Joaquim Gonvêa, at Porto
Moniz, Francisco Ladislau c1a França, at Cal·
heta, anc1 Mr. Wilbraham, at Ponta do Sol, hi.s
best plan is to look for an empty room where he
may set up the hammock for the night, and get
some woman to cook him food and take it to
him there; this can easily be done. At Ponta
elo Pargo, the telegraph clerk (Portuguese) might
help him in the matter. The hotel charges
outsiele Funchal are about 2000 reis a elay. On
the road, coarse breac1, wine, and sometimes
ginger-beer is about alI that is to be had. ln
the towns 01' villages, biscuits, eggs, and some·
times butter anc1 boxes of sarc1ines are to be had,
as welI as tea, coffee, sugar, anc1 sometimes
lemons and bananas.
We may now refer in eletail to the longer and
shorter excursions from Funchal, OUl' object
being more to put the reac1er in the way of
seeing for himself than to c1escribe at length
what may be seen.
We begin with short rides 01' walks within the
compass of a morning 01' afternoon; giving an
approximation of the time l'equired for them,
at a fair riding pace, without allowing for
c1elays.
'1'0 Alegria and back, 2! hours. Fine views of city and of
mountains and ravines.
" " returning The view crossing the ravine

across Sta. Luzia ravine, and is very pretty; the road is
down Saltos road, 3 hours. better for hammock than for
horse; it turns of!' to cross
the ravine, just below S.
Roque Church.
'ro the Mount Ch. by Saltos Fine view of the city and sea.
road, retnrning iu a sledge,
down the Mount road, I!
hours.
To the Mount, by Saltos road, The little Cun-al is very
round little Curral, aud back beautiful; the C. do Meio is
Caminho do Meio by sledge, ateep, but the ride down
2t hours ; 01' returning with- commanda excellent views.
out sledge, 3i; hours.
To Camacha and back, going Camacha presents much the

Palheiro road, returning C. appearance of a nice English
do Meio, 3 honrs. Palbeiro village. Palheiro quinta is
quinta may be taken on the well wooded and very pretty,
way, in which case allow the camellias alone repay
4!; hom's. a visito
To Palheiro quinta and back, An arder to enter must be

2 honrs. obtained from Count Car-
valhal, but is readily con.
ceded on application to his
factor.
'1'0 Neves ChapeI, anel back Fine vicw of the city from
S. Gonçalo road, 2 hours. the east; the Lazaretto is
passed, and may be viewed.
To the Lazaretto and back, Good view of city, bay, and

1 hour. shipping.
56 IIANDBOOK OF MADEIRA.
To S. Antonio and back, across A pretty ride, bnt bad rondo

S. J ão ravine, by S. Roque,
2 honrs.
To S. Ant onio, and back by S.

Amaro, nnder 2 honrs.
r
To S. Antonio, and back by
S. Martinho, nnder 2 hours. These are alI west of Funchal,
with good vielVs of the city
To Trapicho :md back, abont and bay.
2 houra.
To S. Martinho, by old road,
returning by the new road,
abont 2 honrs.
Up Caminho do Meio, acrosa It contains a leveI road of a

by the levada path to be- mile, along the levada,
hind Quinta Mimoso, back which winds in aud out
Palheiro road, about li among the cottages; very
hom·s. pretty views.
To Levada de S. Luzia, up A leveI road for a mile along

Saltos and down Monnt road, the levada - elevation 500
1 hour. feet.
To end of new road and back, LeveI road for 5 miles after
2t hours. the first climb. Fine view
of Cape Giram (2000 feet
high) and of the Praia
Formosa. The road is some-
times rather dusty.
To Camara de Lobos by new Fivp views of Cape Giram,

road, back past S. Francisco the Estreito C. de Lobos,
convent, and by S. Martinho and the Soccorridos ravine,
road, St honrs. with the entrance to th o
Grande Curral.
Othel' walks 01' !'ides may be found by follo,,"

ing levadas, .etc. The men who accompany
should be able to point out many roac1s by which

some of the above rides may be variec1.
We now give a list of some whole-day ex-

r cursions, viz . : -
'fo Ribeiro Frio and back, 7 01' To the Poiso, fine views of
8 hours; 01' return by Ca. Funchal and the country
macha, 8 or 9 hours. between; of the eastern end
of the island to Pt. S.
Lourenço, and the Desertas.
From the top of Ribeiro Frio, fine view of north coast
from Cortado ridge to beyond Porto da Cruz; Penha
d' Aguia, an isolated mountain nea1'ly 2000 feet high,
stands out bold and striking. The Ribeiro Frio is
lovely in the extreme, should the traveller wish to
descend the long zigzag road, involving a great climb
.np again, he will be repaid by the beauty of the
scene, the luxnriant grow of brushwood and trees
of various kinds completely covers the sides of the
valIey. The cold clear stream at the bottom rolIs,
oveI' the stony bed, forming deep poola and pretty
cascades, and the w hole scene is extremely picturesque.
'fhe Metade valley, an hour's journey further on, is
perhaps still more lovely, with fine viewa of the
mountains to the left. The road, whilst steep, is
excellent all the way.
To Poiso, and back byCamacha,
5 houra.
To Grande Curral and back, The Curral is a vast basin
by S. Antonio road, 6 to 7 2000 feet deep, surrounded
houra. by the loftieat peaks in the
island, such as Torrinhas,
Canario and Ruivo to the
north; Torres, Cidrão, Arrieiro, and S. Antonio to the
east, and Pico Grande to the west. Pico do Serrado
is at the southern side, and whilst not high is re·
markable. The view of the Curral from the top of it
is good, but the climb is steep. The church and
58 HANDBOOK OF lI'IADEIRA.
houses at the bottom of tbe Curral appear very

diminutive seen from the topo The road by S.
Antonio is good, although skirting a precipice nea!'
the end. The view of tho Soccorrides raviue stretch.
ing down to the sea is very fine. Going 01' coming
the road may be varied by tbe Trapicho turn and
others known to the men.
'1'0 Grande Curral by S. Mar. Tbe view of the Curral i.s

tinho and Estreito, r eturn. better from this side. The
ing by Jardim da Serra, and Jardim da Serra,formerly tbo
Estreito, and, if inclined, conntry residence of a British
Camara de Lobos, 7 to 8 consnl, is very well situated.
hours. The peaks as alreac1y nametl
are more easily distinguisbed
from this sida of the Curral
than from the other.
To Cape Giram, back by S. Capo Giram rises about 2000
Francisco Convent and S. feet perpendicularly from
Martinho roac1, 5 to 6 the sea, and is one of the
bour8. loftiest and most imposing
headlanc1s in the worId.
'1'0 Pico Arrieiro and back, The views irom P. Arrieiro a re
about 7 01' 8 hours; the extremely grand.
road turns of! to the left
before reaching the Poiso.
To Santo da Serra, by Ca. Santo da Sena is weU wooded
macha, and back, 7 bours; and very pretty; near it
01' r etum by Santa Cruz, 8 is the LagÔa, an extincC
bom's. Cl'ater ; the road back by
Santa Cruz is somewhat try.
ing, being rough and steep.
To Macbico and back, 8 hours. The view of Machico is very
rme from the road above.
To Santa Cruz and back, 6
hours.
To Campanario and back, 8 IndifEerent road.

honrs.
GE1\ERAL DESCRIPTION. 59
'fo Santa Luzia Waterfall aml Â difficul t road for some time,
back, about 5 hours. along either sido of the ra·
vine, thel'l. along the torrent
bed, the latter part cannot
be done on horseback; the
Waterfall is prctty, and is
about 300 feet.
EXCURSIONS BY BOAT.
'1'0 Santa Cruz, Machico and
"fossil bed," aud back, about
7 hours.
'1.'0 Cape Gil'aro anel back, past On the way, notice the" black.
C. ele Lobos, 3 hours. sroith's forge," a hollow rock
through which the searushes
producing a curious sound,
anel sending up srooke·like
spray; notice also Ponta da
Cruz, where a ship was lost
with all hands, hence the
name, a cross having been
placeel to mark the spot.
Before entering upon the subject of more

extended excursions, a few general remarks con-
cel'lling the roads may be useful. ln rides
already named, they are fairly good, the Santa
Anna road being, in all its extension, the best
in the island, by a long way. On the northel'll
si de they are generally rough anel steep, and
sometimes difficult 01' almost dangerous; this is
not to be wondered at, but it is a marvel to find
roads at all with such natural difficulties of
precipices and ravines to be overcome. In some
(iO HANDBOOK OF MADEIRA.
places, both north and south, the path has to be

tunnelled through the rock. Perhaps the worst
road in the island, and one utterly impossible
for horses, is that from the Serra d'Agua to the
Paul, but the views from it are magnificent.
Horses :should not be taken to the west of S.
Vicente, and even fl'om S. Jorge to Ponta Del-
gada by the Entroza road is very bad for them.
From S. 'Vicente to the Paul is accessible on
horseback, but from Seixal to the Paul it is not
'soo The road from Santa Anna to Porto da Cruz
is also very bac1, but is quite practicable for
hor8es.
We propose to take the reader twice across,
and once round the island, thus ;-
1st. To Camacha, Santo da Serra, Lamaceiros,
Fayal, and Santa Anna, returning by direct road
to the city. Allow three days 01' more.
2nd. To Ponta Delgada, by the road through
the Curral and over the Toninhas pass; then
on to S. Vicente, and thence either back to the
'city direct, by the Encumeada and Serra d' Agua,
01' by way of the Paul, Rabaçal, Paul again, and
Serra d'Agua. Allow in one case at least three
,c1ays, in the other at least four days.
3rd. Round the island, b1'eaking the journey
at Machico, Santa Anna, Seixal, and either
Ponta do Pargo, anel Ponta elo Sol, 01' Porto
Moniz anel Calheta. At least six elays.
We have already referred to accommodation
anel facilities obtainable. After reading what
we have to say, our plans can be folIowed or-
others formed, to suit time and convenience, by
the given information. Should there be much
luggage, hire either a man 01' a mule to carry it,.
the latter, with the driver, should cost undEll"
1500 reis a day. An early start is always desir,
able, especialIy in view of the rule of the clouds.
already referred to in Chapter II.
We may mention that there is telegraphic
communication with Funchal from Santa Cruz,
Machico, Point S. Lourenço, Ponta do Sol, and
Ponta do Pargo; and postal communication
from alI parts twice 01' three times a week.
To begin then with excursion No. 1 :-
As far as Santo da Serra the road has been
already referred to; supposing the reader to
have left Funchal at 7 a.m., he should reach
Lamaceiros, on horseback 01' in hammock, before
noon; he may lunch here whilst he enjoys the
finest panoramic view in Madeira, including the
whole north·east side, with Penha el'Aguia, granel
anel isolated, in front, the group of peaks away

to the left, anel ridge after ridge, valIey after
valIey, between him and the sea. One is forcibly
remindeel of Columbus's iUustration, who, when
askeel to elescribe a certain country, crumpled a
piece of papel' anel set it down; elescription fails,
one has to see the view to know at alI what it
is. Fromthe Lamaceiros, the roael may be
t.raced to Santa Anna; it wiU be welI to elo it before
starting. Porto ela Cruz, Fayal, etc., may be
seen hence. Leaving the pass at, say 1 o'clock
(not later), the road, ltitherto so gooel, becomes
simply execrable, steep, rough, anel inegular;
passing Quinta Leal and Mr. Donaldson's house
and farm, reaching Terra do Baptista, above
Porto da Cruz, descenaing behina Penha a' Aguia,
ihe roaa now crosses the bec1s of two streams,
ana he1'e is difficult in the extreme; then
th1'ough Fayal, up the steep rough roaa to the
Vista de Fayal, where the traveller may rest to
behola the charming scene, the view in its
special Gharacter having nothing to equal it in
the island; he may also rest from anxiety, as
.about another hour's travelling over gooa leveI
roael, through beautiful rural scenery, highly
'Gultivateel, will bring him to Santa Anna church ;
past the "gaol" (for which inquire), another
twenty minutes willland him at the hotel, where
Snr. Acciaioly will receive, and, in good French,
teU him aU he may wish to know of the neigh-
bourhood. He should reach Santa Anna hotel,
at latest, by 6 o' clock. The next day will be one
of comparative rest in the morning, and in the
afternoon an excursion to the lovely Levada de
Fayal will repay. Should an extra day be spent
at Santa Anna, Pico Ruivo, the highest point in
the island, may be ascended. A very early start
is advisable, anel seven hours should be allowed
for the excursiono The views are magnificent,
comprehending the whole island. A notable
object on the road is the basaltic column, "O,
homen em pé." The journey may be performed
on horseback to within a short elistance of the
summit; it is almost needless to say that a very
clear day must be chosen for the ascent.
Pico Ruivo stands up bold and distinct behind
Santa Anna, and should be seen on the first day's
journey, after Vista de Fayal, also from Lama-
ceiros. The third 01' fourth day's journey back
to Funchal shoulel take about seven homs, 01'
eight in hammock. Leaving Santa Anna, ascend
to anel cross Cortado pass, through a fine growth
of oak and other trees, by good broad roa.d;

the view from the pass and thence all the way
to Poiso is grand. Before ascending to the
Cruzinha notice the waterfall, which, like a
silver line, threads down the pl'ecipice. The
view of the Torres peaks from Cruzinha is very
fine. Thence descend to Ribeiro da Metade, and
commence the long steep zigzag ascent; at the
top do not fail to notice the view on the right,
with the sharp peak in the foreground. Thence
by a tolerably leveI road, through pretty scenel'y,
reach Ribeiro Frio, ascend anothe1' long steep
zigzag (1500 feet), and stop at the top, to rest,
as well as to admire the scene. Faya,l Church
may be viewed hence. Penha d'Aguia is he1'e
seen in grand relief. From the top to the Poiso
may take half an hóur 01' more, and thence to the
city two and a half hom·s. Sleclges may be taken
from the Arrebentâo, and will save one and a
half hour's l'iding, as well as much time. Ferns
abound in the beds of the st1'eams on this road.
At Santa Anna the bellaedonna lily and hydrangea
are p1'ofuse. Ribeiros da Metade and FTio flow
out from the Grande Curral anel discharge them-
selves at Fayal.
Excursion No. 2 is more formidablo. Through
the Curral, by S. Antonio road, past Boa Ventura

to Ponta Delgada, may take eight to ten hours ;
the road is rougher than that to Santa Anna,
but quite practicable for horses. Passing through
the Curral the scenery is grand. The Ton'inhas
pass is also very fine, the vegetation in the Boa
Ventura valley is extremely l'ich. Botanists find
the spot very attractive. Ponta Delgada is
evidently formed by an extensive landslip. After
staying the1'e the night start early for S. Vicente,
journey under thl'ee homs, and spend the l'est
of the day there. The road to S. Vicente is
aI ong, through, and under grand bold cliffs, and
oveI' a piece of beach; from it the nOl'th-west
coast is seen to great advantage. The entrance
to S. Vicente is charming in its abruptness; tho
whole rich valley opening up suddenly on turning
a sharp corne1': the "Ermiela" rock, on which
is a little chapeI, is a remarkable object from
many points of view; it stands at the mouth of
the valley. The neighbourhood of S. Vicente is
charming; vegetation extremely luxuriant, water
abundant anel continually forming pretty cas-
cades, cultivation and p1'oduction good.
The direct road to the city begins with a long,
steep, anel somewhat 1'ough ascent to the En-
F
66 HANDBOOK OF lIfADEIRA.
cumeada, whence a grand view to the sea on

either side is obtained;. it then meanders through
the lovely Serra d' Agua, remarkable for its large
growth of til and other native woods. There are
no houses between the Encumeac1a and Estreito,
four hours' journey, except a few at Ribeiro de
Poço, one of them is a smaU "venda." Care
must be taken not to delay in passing under
some precipices on the way, where loose stones
often roU down. Pico Grande is now passed,
and thence the road to the city, past the Granele
Curral, is that aheady described.
But the traveller may prefer to extend the
journey and return by the Paul and Rabaçal;
then ascend from S. Vicente by the zigzag
road to the Paul, passing the Tanquinhas, where
a house is now being built by the government,
and cross the extensive tablelanel. If the day
be :fine the view will be charming, anel quite
unlike anything else in the island. For :five miles
square the ground is almost leveI, . the only
growth is sCl'ubby grass and small brushwood
in clumps; the silence and solitude as one
approaches the centre is almost oppressive in
its intensity. Pico Ruivo do Paul rises to the
right, the hills above Porto Moniz are seen
further on, and at last Ribeiro da JanelIa comes
in view, and the descent to the Rabaçal com-
mences. The view of the valley from immeeliately
above the houses is granel beyonel alI description,
the view to the left oveI' Calheta anel away to
the south ariel south-west is also most beautiful.
The time from S. Vicente to the Rabaçal
should not exceeel five hours. Descencling into
the valley, there wilI be much to Sfile: the
engineering works by which the water has been
al'l'esteel in its descent down the precipice are
marvellous; the falI is 1000 feet, anel the wateI'
is caught anel carried away 300 feet from the
base. The labour of cutting the leva ela unc1er
dripping water was most arc1uous; a somewhat
similar work is now being carrieel on in the
Ribeiro c10 Inferno, above Seixal; men are let
c10wn by l"OpeS oveI' the face of the precipice, and
have to cut the channel thus. "Os vinte 'cinco
fontes," where twenty-five fountains c1ischarge, is
worth a visito The two tunnels, one alreac1y in
use, the other still unfinishec1, are the channels
by which the southem slopes receive the water
from the Rabaçal; the benefit alreac1y reapec1 is
great, but on the completion of the works it
promises to be enormous. Either in returning
68 HANDBOOK OF lIfADEIRA.
direct to the city, 01' in going to Rabaçal, food

must be taken from S. Vicente, as none, except
inaifferent breaa, can be got on the roaa; and
shoula the traveller go from Rabaçal by Paul
ana Serra d'Agua to the city, he must be pro-
viaed with two aays' rations from S. Vicente; he
will sleep in his hammock at the Rabaçal
refuge house: the house itself is very gooa. The
joul'l1ey to town is a long one, about eleven
hours, ana the roaa from the Paul to Serra
d'Agua very bad, but the views have nothing to
oqual them in the islancl, ana the traveller,
preparea to l'ough it, will be sure to enjoy the
scenery. The start from Rabaçal should be
by six o'clock if possible, in any case not after
seven.
There are several ways of reaching Rabaçal;
the more general ~one is by boat from Funchal
to Calheta, four hours more 01' less, according to
weather; then in hammock to Rabaçal, three
hours, l'eturning to the city the same way. It
is better to start at night, then an early climb
to the Rabaçal is securea, ana the retul'l1 joul'l1ey
accomplished the same aay. Boat hire from
Funchal to Calheta is from 2000 reis, for the
l'etul'l1 joul'l1ey in proportion.
GE:NERAL DESCRIPTION. 69
Round the island is an arduous journey, not
to be undertaken except by those who cari put
up with much roughing. At Porto Moniz, Ponta
do Pargo, Calheta, 01' Ponta do Sol, as already
mentioned, there is no regular accommodation,
but l'ough shelter and food of some kind can be
obtained in the manner previously suggested.
The journey to Santa Cruz is uninteresting.
Caniço is a small oasis in the midst of almost
barren hills. From the "Marcella," a short
ride 01' walk from Santa Cruz hotel, a magnifi-
cent view is obtained of the Machico valley;
it should if possible be visited. From Santa
Cruz there is a pleasant excursion to Madre
d'Agua, about two hours; there are some gooc1
quintas near Santa Cruz; an hour's travelling
thence a sudden and charming view of Machico
town, bay, and valley is obtained, and the town
is immediately after reached.
Lunching either there 01' at Santa Cruz, the
afternoon may be spent in a visit to the "fossil
bed," which cannot but be of interest; the only
sand beach in Madeira is there; a short climb
to the top of the l'idge will give a good view of
both sides of the island; there will be ample
time to inspect the "fossils" and to return to
I
------~ ~ ---- -
Machico for dinner. Staying there the night,

start early next morning for Santa Anna; up
Machico valley to Portella pass, where the view
is similar and scarcely inferior to that from
Lamaceiros; lunch at Terra do Baptista, where
a room and conveniences are to be had; and
going on to Santa Anna, by the road already
described, stay there the second night. Start-
ing from Santa Anna reasonablyearly by already
described road, past Ponta Delgada and S.
Vicente, go on to Seixal, where stay the third
night; the road from S. Vicente to Seixal is
charming, and botanists find much to interest,
as the neighbourhood of Seixal is rich in ferns.
The ravine of the Ribeiro do Inferno is very
grand and beautiful. The three days' journeys
now c1elineatec1 may occupy six 01' eight, eight,
and eight hours respectively, and a comparative
rest will be desirable ou the fourth day. This
may be secured either by staying another night
at Seixal, 01' by taking the short two to three
hours' journey to Porto Moniz, and staying the
night there; in that case the mouth of the
Ribeiro da J anelia is crossed, displaying what
is undoubtedly the grandest valley in Madeira.
The heights above Porto Moniz are very fine.
GENERA.L DESCRIPTION. 71
The fifth day's journey, fi'om Porto Moniz to
Calheta, wiU occupy about nine hours; the l'oad
passing round the western extremity of the
island, past Ponta do Pargo, traverses lovely
country, such as Fajã d'Ovelha, Prazeres, Paul,
and J ar rum do Mar. This is the country fertilized
by the waters of the Rabaçal, and which largely
provisions Funchnl; it is known as the "Costa
de baixo; " much cattle is reared there. Before
reaching Calheta, the proeluctive anel pleasant
parishes of Arco and Estreito de Calheta are
traversed. The town of Calheta is small and
unimportant, but the parish large and thickly
populated. From Calheta to town, by road,
about ten hours may be occupieel; a boat may
be hired at various places on the road, such as
Magdalena, Ribeira Brava, anel Camara de
Lobos. The Viscount da Calçada has a large
sugar mill at Calheta. Mr. Wilbraham, an
Englishman, has one at Ponta do Sol. At
Magdalena large quantities of bananas are
g:t:own for export from Funchal. The road to
town passes through well-cultivated land the
greater part of the way; the terracing in some
places being carried right up to the tops of the
mountains. Between Ponta do Sol anel Ribeira
72 HA)<DBOOK OF MADEIRA.
Brava, the road passes undel' huge cliffs, anel in

one place, Lugar de Baixo, there has been a
remarkable lanelslip. Thenceforward there is
nothing claiming special mention. Campanario
church is picturesquely situated; a huge chestnut
tree not far off ma,}' be noticed. The road in
some places is rough, and the ascent steep, but
the country always pretty. From the pass
above Cape Giram, the elescent to Camara ele
Lobos is rapid, and the view of the town and of
the Estreito district very picturesque. The rest
of the road is well known.
We have thus sought to furnish a descriptive
outline which the tourist may .fill in for himself.
ln the rapid sk@tch which the limits oí this
work require, an exhaustive elescription could
not have been attempted. Our aim has been
to provide needful and correet information, in
which we trust that we ha ve succeeded.
We may mention that neal' the Paul do Serra
there is a very perfect Cl·ater, "lagôa; " this anel
that at Santo da Serra are the only ones known
to exist in the island.
CHAPTER VI.
GENERAL INFOR1\UTION AND TABLES.
lN this chapter we give lists of steam ship

offices, foreign consuls in Madeira, some Portu-
guese officials, altitudes, and distances; tables,
of money, measures, weights, postal anel tele-
graph rates, and wages and prices. Also some
IJarticulars as to the study of Portuguese, and
a fe~ familiar words in that language.
STEAlVI SHIP OFFICES.
Union, 00., Southampton, and 11 Leaden'l
hall Street, London, E.C.
Donald Currie and Co., 3 and 4 Fenehureh
Street, Lonc1on.
I
Afriean S. S. Co., 31 James Street,
Liverpool.
British and Afriean S. N. Co., 48 Castle A t' M d .
Stree, · . 1
t L lverpoo gen S ln a eIra,
. Bl d B th
London, Madeira and Canaries, S.S. oflice. ~ G an ~K rO erts,
en. merchan s
Forwood Bros., and CO., Graceeh ureh B k t '
Strt;l"lt, London. an "ers, c c.
Lamport and Rolt, Water St., LivcrpOQl.
J. M. Currie, Ravre.
Kennedy anel RUllter, Antwcrp.
Arthur Rolland aud Co., Lcadenhall
I
Street, Loudon. ..
Portuguese African Steamers, Bailey anel
I
Lcatham, Hull; E. George, Lishon. j
S. S. Luso, Empreza Insulana, Caes ( Snr. Bro.nco

Sodre, Lishon . ~ :llIadcira.
FOREIGN CONSULS IN MADEIRA.

Great Britain.-G. R. Ray- Sweden and Norway.-G.
ward, Esq. Welsh, Esq.
U . States.-T. B. Reid, E sq. Rolland.-Tenbrock, Esq.
Germany.-Dr. Sattler. Denmark.-R. Taylor, Esq.
Franoe.-Snr. Oliveira. Russia.-W. Krohn, Esc[.
Ã.ustria and Belgium.-C. Rawaiian Kingdom.-J. Ru t-
Bianohi, Esq. chison, Esq.
Brazil.-Snr. J. P. dos Santos. !taly.-Snr. Caminati.
Spain.-Snr. V. Jove.
PORTUGUESE .OFFICIALS.
Deputy (and Acting) Governor Viscount Canavial
Judge in Funchal Dr. Antas
" Ã.dministrador" in Funchal ... Dr. Nuno Teixeira
Commissary of Police ... Snr. Pedro Goes
Collector oi Customs Snr. Julio Urbano Fernande"7.
Post and Telegraph Master Snr. Va't. Subtil
ApPROXIl\IATE ALTITUDES OF MOUNTAIN PEAKS, ETC.

Feet ]'eet
Camacha Church ... ... 2203 Pico do Canado 544U
C. Giram ... 1934 " Grande... 5391
. Bottom oi G. Cunal '" 2080 " da LagÔa 4762
Depth irom above J. da " da Neve (ice ho.) ... 5346
Serra ... ... 1634 " d'Urza ... . .. 4611
Lamaceiros ... ... 2181 " Ruivo ... 6050
Vista de Machico (mirante) 1768 " do Paul ... 5210
Mount Church 1965 "de S. Anto. do Crn'l'al 570G
S. Roque Church ... 1129" do Cidrão ... 5500
S. Ã.ntonio Church 941 Torrinhas de B. Ventura 5980
Palheiro Quinta 1800" on Torres 6000
Paul da Serra 4611 Poiso house, abont 4000
Penha d' Ã.guia 1915 Portella pass ... . 179!!
Pico do Ã.rco de S. Jorge 2746 S. Ã.nna hotel 1090
" " Arrieiro ... 5893"" Church 941
" "Ã.rrebentão ... 3844 S. Antonio da Serra 2059
" dos Bodes ... 3725 " edge of Lagôa 228U
We extract these altitndes from White's " Randbook"; it is

the rcsult oi different observations, chiefly those of Captains
Vidal anel Ã.zeveelo.
GENERAL INFORMATION AND TABLES. 75
DlSTANCES lN MADEIRA.
Reduced to EngUsh 1niles fl'om the official statament in

J(ilomet1·es.
Miles Miles.
From Funchal to- Machico 15
Mount Church 2l Portella Pass ... 21{-
S. Roque Church ... 21
S. Antonio Church 21
S. Martinho Ohurch
Neves
li
1~ Fayal
From S. Anna to-
6
Palheiro Quinta 3i Porto da Ctuz ... 12
Camacha 6 Portella ... 14 ~\
C. de Lobos 5~- Machico ..• 21
End of new road 4! Lamaceiros, about ..• 19
Lazaretto, about 1 Santo da Serra 24
Campanario 14 Santa Cruz 28
Ribeira Brava 16 S. Jorge 5 ~·
Ponta do Sol 20~- Arco de S. J. 8t
Magdalena 24 :\ Boa Ventura 12t
Calheta .. . 30· Ponta Delgada 14;\
Estreito de Calheta 33-;- S. Vicente 21"
Fajã da Ovelha 41i Seixal 26{;-
Ponta do Pargo 45;t R ela Janella 34
Cape S. Lourenço 20" Porto Moniz 36
Estreito ele C. de Lobos 6t Ponta elo Pargo 47-}
Jardim da Serra 9-} Pico Ruivo, about 12
Curral, about Ui
Cumeada, about 21-}
S. Vicente 28l From Rabaçal to-
Bottom of Curral U" Ponta do Sol Ui
Torrinhas 16 Porto Moruz 18~
Boa Ventura 26i R. da Janella 18~
Poiso 8f Seixal 16t
Jtibeiro Frio Ui S. Vicente 16i-
Cruzinha 15
S. Anua 24~.
Santo da Serra 13} Froril Poiso to-
Lamaceiras, about ... 6
~i
Caniço
]'orto Novo Santo da Serra 10
~anta Cruz 11; Camacha ..• 4
76 HANDBOOK OF MADE IRA.
Miles Milcs
From Santa Cruz to- From Calheta to-
Santo do Serra <4 .. . Rabaçal ... ... 9~
From Ribl'3. Brava to-

Serra d'Agua ... 4% From Paul da Serra to-
Cumeada .. . 7* Prazeres ... 3 ~t
S. Vicente ... 13i Fajã da Ovelha 3~'
From Funohal, by sea, to-

Miles Mile.
Cape Garajúo, about 3 Cape Giram 5
Santa Cruz, about .. . 9 Ponta do Sol 12
Machico, about 12 Calheta .. . 18
" Fossil Bed " ... 15 Ribra . Brava 9
Camara de Lobos 3-?, Desertas ... 20
PORTUGUESE NIONEY
Is reckoned in reis, milreis, and contos de reis;
the l'eal is about l-19th of a 'penny. The coins
are :-
GOLD. REIS. SILVER. COPPER.
Eng. sovereign 4,500 500 reis 40 reis (pataco)
" half·sov. 2,250 200 20 ,. (viutem)
Gold piece 5,000 100 ,,(tostão) 10 " de' reis)
2,000 50 " 5
" " 3 ;: (veryrare)
MONEY EQUIVA.LENTs .
1d.
2d.
= 18:} reis.
37~
38.
48.
675 reis. 168.
900 178.
3,600 reis.
3,825
3d. 56 " 58. = 1,125 " 18s. 4,050 "
'hi. 75 " 68. = 1,350 " 198. 4,275 "
5d. 94 ",,' 78. :;- 1,575 28.6d. == 560 "
6d. 112. 88. = 1,800 ,,' 78.6d. == 1,690 "
7d. 131 " 98. = 2,025 128.6d. == 2,810 "
8el. 150 108. = 2,250 " f:1 = 4·,500 "
9d. 169 118. = 2,475 ;e3 = 13,500
lOdo = ·187 128. = 2,700 "i, f:5 = 22,500 "
11d. . 206 138. = 2,925 f:10 == 45,000 "
Is. 225 . ,, ' 148. = 3,150 " f:20 = 90,9°0 "
28. 4.50 15s. = 3,375 " "
" "
5 reis about ~d. 900 r eis about 45. Od.
10 ~d. 1,000 45. 5,~·d.
15 " ~d. 2,000 " 8s.10}d.
20 " " 1d. 3,000 " 13s.4cl.
40 " " 2hd. 4,000 " 17s.9td.
50 " " 2~d. 5,000 " " 22s.3d.
60 " " 3td. 6,000 " " 26s.8d.
70 " " 3id. 7,000 315. 1d.
80 " " 4td. 8,000 " " 35s.7d.
90 " " 4id. 9,000 " 40s.Od.
100 " " 5td. 10,000 " 44s.5d.
300 " " ls.4d. 20,000 " 88s.11d.
500 " " 2s. 2~d. 50,000 " " ;Bll 25. 3d.
" about
700 reis " 35. Hd. "
1 franc = 180 reis; 100 reis = '555 frauc. 1 .A.merican
doHar = 938 r eis; 1000 reis =
1'066 dollar. 1 Germau mark
= 225 reis. 1 Spanish real = 1'7 reis.
The old system of Madeira currency was
abolished in 1879; Portuguese sterling is now
in vogue, and Portuguese money and Englisb
gold tbe only legal tender.
\iVEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
(The French decimal systcm, by law cstablished.
supersedes all others.)
10 gmmmes about }o oz. 1 lb. avoir. = 453'60 gr.
20" " t u " ~" " = 226 '80
50" "1'1',, 1 oz. 28'35 "
100 " "3~"~·,,,, = 14'17 "
500" ,,1"" lb. 1" troy =
31'1 "
1000 ,,=
1 kilo- ~"" =
16'55 "
gramme 2}" 1 tan = abont 1000 kilos.
1 litro = 1'76 pints; ~ litre '88 pinto 1 pint = '568 litre;
1 qual-t = 1·136litre.
1 metre = 1'09 yard, 01' 39'37 inches; 1 kilometre = '621
mile; 1 inch = '025 metro; 1 yard = '900 metre; 1 mile :=:
1609 metres. The aneient "vara" is about 43 inches.
'78 HANDBOOK OF :r.UDEIRA.
POSTAL INFORMATION AND TABLES.

Letters containing gold 01' silveI' in any shape
.are subject to confiscation. Postage stamps are
z,
2 5, 10, 15,20,25, 50, 80, 100 reis, etc.; there
are also stamped envelopes anel postcards.
Registration varies from 50 to 100 reis, accord-
ing to destination.
POSTAL RATES.
'To Portugal and adjacent islands :-
Letters, 25 reis each 15 gr.
Newspapers, 2?:- reis each 50 gr.
Printed matter, photos, etc., 5 reis each 50 gr.
Samples, manuscript,-etc" 5 reis each 50 gr.
Postcarcls, 10 reis each.
To Spain and I slands and Spanish Northern Africa:-
Printed matter, etc., 5 reis each 50 gr.
Postcards, 10 reis each.
To Argentine Republic (by non subo packet), Austria, Belgium,
Brazil (non subo packet), Canadian Dominion, Denmark,
Egypt, Nnbia (etc.), France (including Algiers, etc.),
Greece, United Kingdom (with Gibraltar, Malta, Religo-
land, and Cyprus), !taly (and Tripoli), Luxemburg, Rolland,
Montenegro, Norway and Sweden, Newfoundland, Persia,
Roumenia, Russia, Servia, Switzerland, 'l'urkey, and United
States:-
Commercial papers, samples, etc., 10 reis each 50 gr.
Postcards, 20 reis each.
Weight limited for newspapers,2 kilog. Weight and size
Jimit for samples, 250 gr. (abont {-lb.) and 20 X 10 X 5 centi-
metres (8 X 4 X 2 in.).
The prepayment of letters is optionaJ. Commercial papel"S
mnst pay at least 50 r eis, and samples at least 20 reis, but at
above rates.
'To British India, Brazil (per French packot), Danish Colonies,
Frenoh Africa (not AIgiers), America, Asia, East and Wost
GENERAL INFORMATION AND TABLES . 79
Indies, British West Indies, Dutch Colonies, Japan, Mauri.
tius, Liberia, Honduras, Penang, P.eru, Portuguese India,
China, East Indies and East Africa, Salvador, Venezuela,
and West Coast of Africa :-
Letters, 80 reis each 15 gr.; postcards, 30 reis.
Samples, 40 reis for 100 gr.
Letters not pl'epaid pay 150 reis each 15 gr. Allletters to
countries beyond Suez pay 100 reis each 15 gr. if sent
viâ Brindisi.
To Brazil, Argentine Republic, and Peru, by subo packets : -
Letters 100 reis each 15 gr.
Printed matter, etc., 20 rcis each 50 gr.
Prepayment optional on letters.
To South America (parts not hitherto namod) by royal mail
and other packets, Auskalia, and Cape Colonies :-
TELEGRAl\i TARIFF.
To Portugal, each word, including aeldress,

250 reis; England (viâ Falmouth), 370 reis;
Spain, 295 reis; France, 340 reis; Germany,
385 reis; Belgium, 355 reis; Russia, 460 reis.
Each three figures = one word; a word of
more than 10 letters counts two.
WAGES AND PRICES TABLES.
Travelling .-By carro, hammock, 01' horse, in

anel near town, 400 reis per hour-a few pence
extra is lookeel for by the man-longer journeys
by special agreement, but the usual charge per
eliem for horse anel man, to cover alI expenses, is
about 3000 reis; for hammock it is' about the
80 HANDBOOK OF l\1ADEIRA.
same, 01' more if extra men are wanted. Boat

hire has no fixeel rate, but shoulel be less than
carro. Sleelge from the Mount, 250 to 300 reis
each person. The price per month for a horse,
with exclusive anel constant use and attendance
of the man, is about 33,000 reis. Hammock
men, per month, charge about 10,000 reis each,
anel 2500 to 3000 reis for use of hammock.
Se7'vants' Wages .-Cooks, 7000 to 12,000 reis
per month; housemaiels, 4000 to 7000 reis per
month; other servants in proportion. A elay
labomer eams about 350 reis per diem.
Washing.-From 300 to 400 reis per dozen;
washing anel ironing, 350 reis per elozen.
PRICES OF COl\1l\IODITIES.
Beef, best, 220 reis per kilo. Milk, 40 to 50 rois per bottle.
Mutton,,, 300 " Vegotables and fruit cheap.
Veal, "300,, " Bread about 120 reis per kilo.
Fowls, 300 to 500 reis each. Potatoes. 35 to 60 reis "
Fish, varies, but is cheap. Batter, 4.()0 to 600 "
Flom, 120 to 140 reis per kilo. Sugar about 250
All imported provisions pay heavy duty, anel

are therefore dear.
STUDY OF PORTUGUESE.
The best books are, Cabano 01' Vieira's Gram-

mar, D'Orsey's Grammar, 01' more properly,
•
Exercise Book, with grammatical notes, and his
Colloquial Vocabulary, and Vieira 01' VaIdez'
Dictionary. They are all somewhat dear, and
had better be purchased before leaving England.
Cabano's Gr ammar is simpler than Vieira's, but
hardly so exacto Valc1ez' is the more modem
clictionary. D'Orsey's Colloquial Portuguese is
,ery complete. A small cheap vocabulary is
much wanted; one by the present writer is in
comse oí preparation, to be sold in Madeira.
The principal peculiarities of Portuguese pro-
nunciation are: The " til" oveI' the vowel giving
it a nasal sound, thus, "pão" (bread), pronounced
" paóng "; the c10uble consonants "lh" and
" nh," pron ounced " ly" 01' " ny," 'thus, " tenho"
(I have), pronouneed "tenyoo," "milho" (maize),
pronouneed "meeIyoo"; the rough "1'" like
"rh," when it is doubled 01' does not oeeur
betIVeen tIVO VOlVeIs; and the "m " 01' "n " final
pronounced nasally, thus, "sim" (yes), pro-
nounced " seeng "; "ch" is aImost aIways soft;
" j " is always so; "o" is oHen broad like " aIV,"
as "mó," pronouncec1 "maw."
We subjoin a Iist of a few very commonplace
IVords with approximate pronuneiation; the final
VOlVeI is almost mute, unIess accentec1.
G
Hammock rede rheydy

Horse cavallo
Cal' 01' sledge carro carhoo
Ride or walk passeio passayoo
Man homem awmeng
Womau mulher moolyeyhr
Child menino meneenoo
Boy rapaz
Girl rapariga
Time tempo tempoo
Money dinheiro deenyayroo
Gold ouro ohroo
Silver prata
Copper cobre cawbry
Food comída corneeda
Drink bebída bebeeda
Servaut creado 01' Cl'eada
Rouse caza
Bedroom quarto kwartoo
Sitting.room sala
Dining.room sala de jantar
Church egreja egreyzha
Shop loja lawzha
Road estrada
Way caminho cameenyoo
Street rua rhooa
Garden jardim zhardeeng
Hill ladeira ladayra
Hall muro mooroo
Horneward para caza
Further mais longe mys lonzhy
Nearer mais perto mys peyrtoo
Longer mais comprido mys compreedoo
Shorter mais curto mys coortoo
More mais mys
Less menus maynooz
Large grande
Small pequeno pekaynoo
High alto
Low baixo byshoo
Howmuch? quanto? kwantoo
Wait! espere ezpeyry
Goon! continue continooy
Yes sim seeng
No nào náong
Iwant quero kehroo
I like gosto goztoo
Rere " aqui akee
There alli alee
My meu, minha meyoo, meenya
Thy teu, tua teyC?o, tooa
Ris 01' hers seu, sua seyoo, sooa
Ship navio naveeoo
Steamer vapor vápor
'l'ree arvore árvory
Shrub arbusto arhbooztoo
Flower flor flohr
Fern feito faytoo
Water agua agooa
Stream ribeiro reebayroo
Fountain fonte f6nty
Birds pássaros
AnimaIs animaes animys
Fish peixe payshy
Much muito mweentoo
Little pouco pohkoo
Many muitos
Few poucos
Fast de pressa
Slow de vagar
Mr. Senhor Senyor (Snr.)
Mrs. or Miss Senhora Senyora (Sara. D.)
1 um oom 8 oito
2 dois 9 nove nawvy
3 tres 10 dez dayz
4 quatro qwatroo The O or A formas. 01'
5 cinco sincoo fem.
6 seis sayz A um or uma for mas. 01'
7 sete fem.
The Island of
MADEIRA
ADDENDA.
o 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Temperature of the sea in Funchal Bay,

highest 75°, lowest 63°.
DifIerence of time between Funchal anel
Greenwich- 1h. 8m.
Mortality-20 to 1000 inhabitants ; that among
young children being enormous raises the rate
considerably.
Nothing of value should be sent by post to the
island, as all such articles are liable to confisca-
tion on account of duty.
J>RINTRD BV \V II.LlAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES.

Concise Handbook Island Madeira 1881

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Concise Handbook Island Madeira 1881

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HANDBOOK OF MADEIRA

lVITH PLAN DF FUNCHAL AND MAP DF

~.o OJ,3 il:t 8

THE object of this little work is, in some mea-

po1'tant town in the g1'oup. It is the residence

are few and bad. On the southern side there

Sol, Cabo Giram, Ponta da Cruz, Cabo Garajáo

The Desertas are three: Ilha Chão (N.),

The rise and fall of the tide at Funchal is

WE have already referred to Dr. Goldschmidt's

A few preliminary remarks as to climate may

The wintel' l'ains set in and prevail more 01' less

The hot summer weather may be avoided

We may now give some of the statistics as to

Dr. Gourley gave as the result of eighteen

Drs. Heineken and Renton, at an elevation of

Mr. White (1850-51) gives the following, taken

From the same observations he gives the

Various observations combined give the mean

They are published in the daily papers, 01' may

Mean maximum 'Dfean minimum Menn tempera-

January .... ......... 63 53'50 58'26

The observatory is at an altitude of 80 feet

Dr. Grabham's meteorological observations, as

Presumably the days not included in the observa-

Mr. White's observations (1850-1) give the

Barometer. Days on which Inches of rain.

Janual'y ... .. . ... ... 3 1'655

The humidity of the atmosphere IS given as

Dr . Heineken. Mr. White. Government

Jannary .... ...... .. 70 73 65'4

June ........... .. ... 72 79 66

SatunLtion in each case is 1ÓO.

Annual mean temperature 50° 3' 66°

It may be well to caution the new a1'rival that

How to get there? is the next questiono The

The Union Boats leave Southampton on Thurs-

mouth occupies about four days, and has been

B y African S.S. Com- ;E s. d. ;E s. d.

Passage about SlX days. Good comfortable

By steamer from Lon- Monthly, at nu- To 01' from Madeira,

These are good cargo boats, but little suited for

By Lamport and OccasionaUy ; ;E15 1st class; con_

Sarne steamers to 01' from Lisbon, occasionally,

direct, and to return from it by way of Portugal.

tickets, for three months, 28., six months, 28. 3d.,

situation of Funchal at the water's edge with the

luggage, and will see to the landing, to the

it commands fine views oí the mountains; there

free, if a bond be entered into to pay should the

is an English bakery in the Rua das Murças.

stocked with fine shady trees and have plenty of

ballot, at the following rates of subscription;-

'THE Madeira archipelago appears to have been

The island of Porto Santo is of little value; it

'Garajáo, from the number of gulls seen on it;

finding it would have a church erected on the

marauders, who sacked, pillaged, and murdel'ed

The vine was introduced from Orete in 1421,

very primitive. Other native manufactures are

takes its name from a principal town in it,

Roman Catholicism is established by law,

were immediately expelled, and nuns allowed to