TT1-

Warp
Knitting
Technology

Irena Lenfeldová Department of Technologies and Structures, FT, TUL1

 Warp knitting technology

Raschel knitting machine – with

www.iso.org
jacquard selection (raschel lace)
Warp knitted structure - jacquard 2
 Warp knitting technology

What are the

differences between
raschel and tricot ?
machines?

Tricot machine

www.knittingindustry.com 3
 Warp knitting technology
Crochet knitting machine (carabine or latch needle).
 Systems of knitting machines
• Yarn supply device
• Knitting mechanism
• Patterning and operating
mechanisms
• Take-up mechanism
• Drive of machine
• Controlling mechanism
• Frame and supporting parts
 Warp knitting system
Latch needle, compound and carabine needle

Hook Self-acting
latch
Latch Guide bar, guide
Stem Head of
needle (hook)

Tail
?
Sinker
What are functions of sinkers?
Difference between sinkers of
raschel and tricot machine?
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 Classes of warp knitting
machines

Tricot machines
- One needle bed,
double needle bed

Raschel machines
- one needle bed, double
needle bed
Crochet knitting machine
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 Tricot machine

Cross-section of a bearded
needle tricot machine
Articles: close-knitted, plain-and-patterned
structures, particularly for lingerie and apparel
(with or without elastane), fabrics for technical
use, for automotive, sport purposes, etc.
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 Raschel machine

Cross-section of a
latch needle raschel

Articles: fabrics and laces

for closing and lingerie (with
or without elastane), home
and technical knitted textiles
(package, medical,
geotextile, etc.)
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 Crochet machine

Articles: textiles for

medical use (bandage,
tape, etc.), narrow elastic
laces, fancy fabrics, etc.

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 Process in knitting production

• Technical preparation of production

• Preparation of materials for knitting
• Knitting
• Finishing (sewing, dyeing, printing, etc.)

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 Design
Creation
Simulation
Data transfer and
knitting
Product
 Warp knitting
Warping (direct)
preparation for threads
Differences between winding and warping?
Materials: usually synthetic threads
- multifilament, monofilament,
elastane.

Sectional
beam

Width of the warp may be composed of

a number of sectional beams.

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 Loop and chain
notation

Open loop Closed loop

• Lapping diagram and chain notation

(How the guide-bar threadings are drawn?)
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 Warp knitting design
Lapping
• The direction of lapping at Cohesive single
successive courses
• Open, closed ? guide bar structures,
two guide bar
• The bars underlap in structures, etc.
opposition or not
Simplest lapping
Pillar (chain) stitch

Open-lap pillar Closed-lap pillar

stitch stitch

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 Warp knitting structures - tricot

Chain
Open tricot notation Closed tricot

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 Warp knitting structures - cord

Open cord Closed cord

?
Chain
notation
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 Warp knitting structures - satin

?
Open satin Chain
notation

Closed satin
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Warp knitting structures - atlas

?
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 Patterning of warp knitting
fabrics
• Structure (net, filet, plating, plush, etc.)
• Pattern guide bar + laying-in,
• Fall-plate technique + extend underlaps lapping,
• Jacquard technique of jacquard guide bars,
• Structure with weft insertion
(warps and other system)
Application: for production of laces and
curtain as well as technical textiles.

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Double faced knitting fabric
B
F
B
F
B
F
B
F

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 Resources:
• Daněk V.: Stroje a technologie osnovního pletení, ES VŠST Liberec, 1984,
• Dostalová, M., Křivánková, M.: Základy textilu a oděvnictví, ESVP Liberec,
• Kočí, V.: Vazby pletenin, SNTL, Praha 1980,
• Kovář, R.: Pletení, ESVP Liberec 1997,
• Pospíšil Z. a kol.: Příručka textilního odborníka, SNTL Praha, 1981,
• Spencer, D.J.: Knitting Technology, Cambridge, 2001,
• Syrovátková M.: výukové materiály pro předměty ZTV a OPL,
• www.groz-beckert.com
• www.karlmayer.de
• www.knitepedia.com
• www.knit-tex.cz
• www.lonati.com
• www.mayerandcie.com
• www.sangiacomo.com
• www.santoni.com
• www.shimaseiki.com
• www.stoll.com
• www.uniplet.cz