A Project Report

on HVAC System Design

for buildings

PROJECT STATEMENT:

There is an office building with G+10 structure located in Chennai.

The architectural floor plans of the building are provided in Annexure A.
The toilet ventilation system is to be designed for this building. Consider
the required Air changes for ventilating the toilet areas per NBC 2016
Code.
 SOLUTION
1 .Calculate the required air flow capacity to expelled from each toilet wise:
Let us the office with 3 floor each of the floor has a toilet of length 30,breath 25
and height and the total volume of each toilet is 30x25x12.

From the standard air flow table as per the NBC 2016 code. The air flow for the
office wash room is taken as 10 to 12.Here we take 12 as air flow rate per hour.

Formula for the find the Air changes in Cubic Feet per
Minute(CFM): volume of the Toilet x Air change per hour
Air change = 60 CFM

Volume of the toilet = 30 x 25 x 12

= 9000 sq.units.
Air changes per hour = 12

Air change = 9000 x 12

60
 Air change = 1800 CFM

Changing to cubic feet per

hour:

Air changes in Cubic feet per hour = 1800 x 60

= 10,8000 CFH

AIR CHANGES PER HOUR:

ACH = Cubic feet per hour / volume of

Toilet ACH = 10,8000 / 9000

ACH = 12

For single floor the required exhaust fan with a minimum of 1800 CFM.

2. Summaries the floor wise toilet exhaust air flow requirements and arrive at
the fan capacity to be installed at terrace

3. Design the ventilation duct rooting inside the toilets

Duct
The connection of the exhaust duct to the fan port may be made with mechanical
fasteners
and/or mastic. A smooth-surfaced duct, such as galvanized sheet metal or PVC, that is the
size specified by the manufacturer should be installed. If aluminum flex duct is used, it
should be stretched tight to avoid unnecessary sagging and to minimize friction. Ideally,
the
duct should be the same diameter as the exit opening on the fan
housing.

Straight as Possible
The fan should exhaust directly to the outside. The duct should be supported so that it
hangs
as straight as possible and positioned so that it has as few bends as possible. At a
minimum,
the first 3 feet of duct extending from the fan exhaust port should lay straight; an
installation
with a 90-degree elbow immediately adjacent to the fan exhaust port can cause air to
flow
back into the fan.

4. Identify the location and size the exhaust shaft to route the toilet exhaust duct
till the main terrace and further connecting with the exhaust fan
Bathroom vent fans are required by the NEC (National Electrical Code) and local building
codes for any bathroom that doesn't have a window that can be opened to provide ventilation.
In some jurisdictions, they are required even if windows are present.

A vent fans does two important things It removes hot, moist air, and it can remove
odors. Moist air leads to mould growth, and odours lead to general unpleasantness.1

But installing a weak, undersized fan is almost not worth the effort, even if the fan meets the
minimum requirements. It's important to understand how vent fans are sized and how to
choose one with the proper capacity for your space.

Standard Fan Sizing

Bathroom vent fans are rated for the amount of air they can move, measured in cubic feet per
minute, or CFM. Standard fan sizing applies to bathrooms that are 100 square feet or less.
The rule of thumb is that you need at least 1 CFM per square foot of room area.

To determine the square footage of your bathroom, multiply the length times the width. For
example, if your bathroom is six feet wide and nine feet long, its square footage is 54.
Therefore, it should have a fan rated for at least 54 CFM. But before you start shopping,
there are a few things to consider.

• First, it's a good idea to oversize the fan slightly. In our sample 54-square-foot,
for example, it's a good idea to install a 60 CFM fan for good measure.
• Second, if your bathroom has a jetted tub or separate rooms or alcoves, you
might want more than one fan.
• The minimum allowed fan size is 50 CFM, so if your bathroom is, for example,
only 42 square feet, you still need a 50 CFM fan.

When sizing a vent fan, a factor to consider is duct size and length. Most 50 CFM fans will
run well with 4-inch round duct. But as you get up into the higher CFM fans, duct size will
have to be increased to 5- or 6-inch round duct. The length of run, as well as the number
fittings, elbows, etc., will also affect the amount of air your duct can effectively carry.

There are somewhat complicated formulas for calculating proper duct size for different
length runs and configurations, but the instructions that come with the fan will outline the
requirements. Just make sure there is sufficient space for the ductwork in the area where
you’re installing the fan. Trying to force too much air through undersized duct will make the
fan work too hard and will provide insufficient venting.

Sizing for Large Bathrooms

For bathrooms over 100 square feet, exhaust fans can be sized according to the number of
fixtures in the room. To calculate using this formula, add up the required CFM ratings for all
of the fixtures:

• Bathtub: 50 CFM
• Jetted tub: 100 CFM
• Shower: 50 CFM
• Toilet: 50 CFM

For example, if your bathroom includes just a shower and a toilet, it needs a 100 CFM
fan, while a bathroom with a jetted tub, toilet, and shower needs a 200 CFM fan.

Another calculation method is useful for large rooms with high ceilings (well over eight
feet). In this method, multiply the square footage by the ceiling height, divide by 60
(minutes in one hour), then multiply by eight (recommended number of air exchanges per
hour). For example, for a room that's 120 square feet and has a 10-foot ceiling:

1. 120 x 10 = 1,200
2. 1,200 divided by 60 = 20
3. 20 x 8 = 160 CFM
A Second Fan May Be Needed
If your bathroom has a toilet or shower area enclosed by a door, it's a good idea to install a
separate exhaust fan for that area. If the enclosed space is small, a 50 CFM fan should
suffice. Otherwise, use the appropriate calculation based on the room size. Just remember
that the fan needs airflow to do its job.

If the door to the enclosure is closed and there's no gap at the bottom of the door, the fan will
be starved of "makeup" air and will perform poorly. If the gap under the door in an
enclosure is less than 5/8 inch, you should leave the door slightly ajar when using the toilet
or shower when the enclosure's vent fan is running. Another solution is to install a louvered
door that allows airflow.

1. Find or Establish the Power Source

The bathroom vent fan will be installed in the ceiling. You may already have
power running to the exact point where you intend to install the bathroom vent fan.
Depending on your local electrical code, you may be able to share your bathroom
lighting circuit with the fan. The bathroom lighting circuit usually supplies power to
your bathroom's ceiling light. Alternatively, you can substitute the light for a fan/light
combination.

If your code requires you to run a dedicated circuit for the fan, you can run a new
cable from the service panel to the bathroom ceiling area. If you do not feel
comfortable establishing new circuits and working with the service panel, this would
be time to contact and electrician to complete this task.

2. Locate the Vent Point

Air exhausted by the fan must exit outdoors. Thus, you will need to run a duct from
the fan to either the roof or a side wall. If at all possible, run the flexible ducting to a
wall, as this helps you avoid shingle work and the possibility of roof leaks.

Ideally, the rule of thumb for vent location is to choose a spot that is a direct route
from the fan to the outside and 6 feet or less away from the bathroom fan to the exit
point. The vent fan needs to be in the bathroom interior, not in a hallway, and should
be located close to the shower, tub, or shower/tub combination, as this is the area
that produces the most moisture. The duct leading from the vent should be as straight
as possible to avoid sharp bends that can impede airflow.

Drill a locator hole at the center of the intended location.

3. Cut the Exterior Vent Location

Depending on where you intend to exhaust to the exterior, access either the wall
or the roof of the house.
 Bring your round vent (for walls) or vent cap (for roofs). Also bring your
reciprocating saw, cordless drill, pencil, and silicone caulk. Situate the round vent or
vent cap across the locator hole. With the pencil, scribe a circle where the vent or
cap will fit.

Use the reciprocating saw to cut the circle, with the locator hole as a start point for the
saw blade. Attach the round vent or roof cap with screws, first applying silicone caulk
to ensure a watertight fit.

On a roof, you will need to slip the flashing of the roof cap under the shingles
above the midsection of the vent opening to ensure a watertight installation. This
may require removing some shingle nails and/or trimming the surrounding shingles
to fit around the roof cap.

4. Cut the Interior Opening for the Bathroom Fan

From below, use the stud finder to locate the joists in the bathroom ceiling and lightly
mark with a pencil.If the fan comes with a paper template, use the template to mark
the intended location of the fan in the ceiling. If there is no template, use the metal
fan housing itself (leave the fan assembly out for now). Many bathroom fans screw
directly to the side of the joist. If so, place the template or housing parallel to a joist
when making the cut lines.

Cut out the drywall carefully with the jab saw.

5. Attach the Bathroom Fan to the Joist

Access the attic and bring your light, cordless drill, screws, and bathroom fan
housing. Place the fan in the cut-out hole so that the bottom edge of the fan is
flush with the bottom of the ceiling drywall. You will need a partner for this step,
as you cannot see the ceiling from this position.

Screw the fan into the side of the joists with the cordless drill. If you cannot use the
side of a joist as an attachment point, your fan may come with suspension brackets. If
not, you can purchase these separately. Brackets will allow the fan to be suspended in
a position that is not adjacent to a joist.

While you are still in the attic, fit the electrical wire through the side of the housing so
that roughly 7 inches of the wire extends into the housing.

6. Route the Bathroom Fan to the Exterior

Go back down to the bathroom and verify the vertical placement of the fan. Gather
your flexible ducting and aluminium foil tape and take it back into the attic. Use the
foil tape to attach the flexible tubing to the fan and the vent. (Your fan or ducting
may come with mechanical fasteners for attaching the duct to use instead of foil
tape.) Ensure that the tubing runs as smoothly and directly as possible.
7. Attach the Bathroom Fan to the Housing
In the bathroom, insert the fan unit into the housing, per the manufacturer's
instructions. At this point, you will strip the ends of the electrical wires and hard-wire
them into the unit. Typically, either a bare wire or green wire will attach to the side
of the metal housing for grounding, a critical safety measure.

Attach the fan grille to the face of the housing. Turn the circuit breaker back
on. Return to the bathroom and test the fan by turning on the switch.