ZORAN SLAVIĆ

POSTCARDS FROM EUROPE

This book will you enable that besides natural beauty, attractive hotels and
restaurants, besides tasting the local cuisine and drinks, and learn something about
the history and art of some European destinations. The author of these texts, during
his journeys, leading a cultural inner dialogue with many greats from the past,
whose works celebrated the preceding period, while their previous residence left to
take on the spiritual map of the regions or cities.

2
POSTCARDS FROM EUROPE
Travel writing

SERBIA. HUNGARY. CROATIA. ITALY. AUSTRIA. SLOVAKIA. CZECH REPUBLIC.

FRANCE. GERMANY. SPAIN. RUSSIA. SAN MARINO. MONACO. ANDORRA.

Copyright 2013 Zoran Slavić

3
Before you start to read these travels

At the beginning it should be said that I do

not travel just for pleasure which brings
return filled with memories, nor extend the
unknown cities and regions merely because
of everyday sensations experienced in these
destinations: images, sights, smell, meetings,
facilities and people, sometimes, in my
memory, become complex and multi-layered
upgraded memory. I admit, though,
however, that without a weary satisfaction
that causes returns and luxuries that
provokes the thought in the memories of
your stay in a foreign country, traveling for
me would be a lot less exciting and
important. So, do not travel just to
remember, but I'm going to travel, carrying
all his mental archives, the overall supply of
intellectual, artistic and sensory experience, knowing that I would enjoy at least
once more so the upgraded impressions.
This is a journey through parts of Europe, I visited a traveling officially or
privately, in searching for anthropology of the continent. Story, because all this is
actually a mixture of fact and his own experience and imagination, begins in Serbia,
which is my eternal destination! For outward and return journey.

4
SERBIA/ VOJVODINA

ZORAN SLAVIC

5
ZRENJANIN
A SHOT AT THE SAINTS, IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE WORLD
WAR II

With a once story, which connects the current Zrenjanin and former Petrograd,
which was before that, at 600 years - A Great Becskerek, searching for the actor
postwar incident, driven by curiosity not only historical, I arrived in Prague. The city
that is by, in many ways, one of the most intriguing of the overall world. Arguments
to support this claim, this city Slovene-German-Jewish orientation, there are many.
The layers of archeology, building, thinking and overall creation. There are at least
as much as one can find counterarguments for different claims. However, back to
the basic story: somewhere 1944th , when the Petrovgrad just about to become
Zrenjanin, a drunk Russian soldier may, possibly Bolshevik, or just too young, from
Schmeisser fire destroyed the statue of Jan Nepomuk, a Czech saint, which was
located in the apse at the entrance to the City Garden. Since then, the place is empty.
Physically. As the missing piece of urban architecture. Nevertheless it was decades
holes in the mental geography of the city. Which is otherwise quite ecumenical
committed. As the wars of the nineties somewhat disturbed. A city that has existed
since the fourteenth century, with the first name Becskerek, about which neither the
scientists nor the etymology of the residents do not know enough until today. The
building, which housed the City Garden, central administrative location, Town Hall,
was built in the 1527th, in place at the site of the old fort. What is the big fire in the
1807th burned. Today's administrative Becskerek House was renovated 1816th,
while additions, adjustments and other embellishments finished 1877th.
Somewhere in these fifty years, should be dated and placing Nepomuk figures in the
apse of which we speak.

6
 We owe to you now the story of Jan Nepomuk (1330 - 1393), Czech martyr,
which is almost 150 years was'' Deathwatch'' on one of the entrances to the Town
Hall, in Becskerek. So the Vicar always and forever prestigious of Prague, sworn
Sacrament, and his conscience, he refused to his sovereign Vaclav IV announce what
his queen, but the king's wife, admitted the confession. In the cruel fury of the
powerful, Vaclav rebellious vicar cruelly put to death by strangling in the Vltava
River. Nepomuk is so secret confessions took to his grave.
With Vaclav, Prague, Queen of the Vltava and then what would be. History
and geography will tell about it! Nepomuk, because of his devotion to truth and
religion, and probably some other things that are not canonical part of the story,
would later declare saints. And across Europe, in the decades that followed, the
Believers have built churches, and monuments to the glory of the martyr. Becskerek
citizens, too, in its apse, and put a wooden statue of Nepomuk. In the apse, since
1944. However no more Jan (Johan, Ivan) Nepomuk. Nevertheless, it must be
returned. I, however, decided to go to Prague, and there that, from the Charles
Bridge, all live, with a delay of 600 years, to understand and experience the tragedy
and heroism of Nepomuk.

7
BALCONY THAT HOLDS FOR THE TIME

The debate on whether the physiognomy of cities primarily determined by their

inhabitants, or make them different buildings, squares, parks and bridges, is an
attractive cultural entertainment. This time, however, emphatically opts to talk
about buildings and their fateful connections with the pulsing urban areas where
exist. While unfolding bundle of time, in which concrete construction exists, we will
find, however, that the issue of the opening sentences of the text is actually so
relative, that no matter which side he approached, we come up with an answer that
says that they are permanent and encompassing just transience and style. I speak,
therefore, this time about City Palace in Zrenjanin, listened to it, and around it,
passing the time. Centuries. Epoch. By the way, it happens and the style! Style and its
absence. However not today about this whole building, but only on the balcony
overlooking the square.
Balcony Becskerek now Zrenjanin, City Palace remembers many events down in the
square below. Such events certainly do not count Sunday reverie Great prefects and
their families. The part of the memory this balcony as if currently in a state of
amnesia. If, in the treasury of the time there are even bits of privacy. Which are
certainly quite banal. Word is, this time, the more serious situations, the views that
remembers the history of the town. Originally recorded and then forgotten because
some events supposedly become someone else's history. Other people's history
within a single urban beings!? What would a latter generation to talk about these
truths today - only the gods know. That is, after all, with a history and gods!

8
The first dates from 1848, when the county governments from the balcony of this
unit carried out parade that went to quell the rebellion. Hungarian revolt in the core
Austro-Hungary. If we know that the rebellion initially had anti-feudal and social
character, and the end of that movement was narrowly national, but historically
inevitable, the view from the balcony was not famous, for Becskerek officers. And of
course population, but we have already said that the buildings themselves are not to
blame. In memory of this city remained images as a prefect, from the balcony of City
Palace, welcome future " Anti-revolutionary forces." Below - Hussars, up - officials,
and history was undecided. This time, we will not talk about the people gathered.
Becskerek. Serbian, Hungarian, German. The city at that time called the Great
Bečkerek .
I did not say, on the square was the commander of the troops and called Kis
Erne, the Count. Everything happens in the maelstrom diabolical history, which will
write the winners. What is yet to come as a major defeat. Within the Austro-
Hungarian cauldron.
From the same balcony, though covered and polished, Liberator of Bečkerek
Brigadier Ristic, 1918. year, said thrilled mass of people. He explained that they are
now free, as indeed they already know, because they have been themselves fought
for it, but they did not bother to hear it officially. On the square, awaited him 150
horsemen and 200 adorned car. And the people. Music was playing Serbian anthem.
Austro-Hungarians, from the balcony of the previous stories, gave way in the past.
Started at a new time. Opaque and full week of optimism. Balcony county is, again,
for the occasion was stylishly formed. For it is now Slavko Županski, on behalf of
the people. And he was saying. The city then became Petrograd. Testified to this
memorial tablet. What is the Balconies from, many years later, moved to the
hallway. While, back to the past, from modern mind, send the question: who is
whom, and by whom, the occasion freely?
And so, through the history of the balcony of the town house, which seemed
more glorious than the building to which it belongs, we come to 1952. year. 11th
May of that year, revealing a monument to national hero Zarko Zrenjanin, Josip Broz
Tito spoke to residents of Zrenjanin. And there were a lot of people, exist and photos
of the event: it happened. Enemies of the state did not attend, were both arrested
and their property confiscated. As kulaks. Ownership and mental. The so-called
political enemies are, to be sure, occasional and temporary detention. Below the
balcony, however, there are many enthusiastic proletarians.
Now this town is called - Zrenjanin. Although we have some time later tried
to back one of his previous name. Changes are good, it is well known, especially if
they do not change anything. The people below the balcony and was the 1952nd
partly a Partisan. People did not go to war, and the liberation has already been done
a long time ago. While Tito, Josip Broz, as was a bit absent-minded. A charismatic
enough. While Tito, Josip Broz, as was a bit absent-minded. A charismatic enough.
On that day the Marshall discovered a monument to the hero Zarko Zrenjanin.
Which was later removed. Because it is estimated that of the hero is concerned
enough that the city is still called by his last name!
Watching from the balcony of this today, as I hear the sound of transience. I
just do not feel more comfortable. Blowing from every page of history. Day cold,

9
sunny Saturday. City Palace is still docked the middle of town Becskerek. The years
have been the other side of the millennium. Baroque palaces, and again to my
colleagues told reporters, is a good looking. Small internal rotting, kitsch here and
there. Ascent epoch are as a matter of taste. And down in the square: billboard with
photos: Greetings from Zrenjanin. A young painter Gabriel Parigoz,
Youthful irony, as is sometimes done in the poem Milan Nenadic, presented a city,
not just visual, paradox - the monuments of which there are none in fact - bridge
over the river is no more, and emptiness in the apse of Johann Nepomuk.
In the spirit of his time, the artist filled the "hole in the city's memory" with the
characters of Batman and Superman. Square by living a different life. A balcony is,
thank you ... Good!

October 2005.

PS.
Meanwhile, Milan Nenadic moved to Novi Sad and Batman finally cede place
usurped in the apse of legal John (Jan) Nepomuk. Because the town of Zrenjanin
managed to put in place the new figure of the saint. While going through the Square
I was wondering whether this official Balcony still thinking about the great history?
Or is it enough alternatives cross cut view of the bridge and the Small Reformed
Church, In Which organs are asleep. The posthumous gift of a synagogue destroyed
by the fascists 1941st. Surrealist eyes Mademoiselle Gabrielle Parigroz cruising
Facebook. Zrenjanin, in this February, under snow, looks quite washed. Far from any
noise. Nevertheless the risk.

10
NEAR ZRENJANIN
BOSNIAKS WINDMILL

When you go from Melenci to Basaid, in the direction of Kikinda, if you know why
you're going in that direction, though you enough knowledge that he Dusan Vasilyev
in the town wrote verses even after World War II, you will face with one of two, the
remaining windmills in Vojvodina. In the plain that all sorts winds blow. Even those
who in different countries could be even more useful. Those flies on the wings of the
buildings triggered. Of course, when there are winging. On the windmills at Melenci,
the functional detail is missing for a long time. Took it carelessness, the time, the
modernization. Go are the wings of wind.
A perfect place. Windy. It blows every day. Even today, in a flash, I think of
punishment that it gave us his, I think the Banat wind, constant roar while trying to
record writer Pavlov Milutin and his memories of these areas in the surroundings of
Zrenjanin. While in my memory Milutin Pavlov is trying to deceive the wind, which,
accustomed to the windmill. Accustom and will not respect the fact that she built a
long time ago, an old, built in 1891. By chance negligence, lost her arm. Because her
wings serve as the hands, as it is a millstone, similar to that of a water mill, the
windmill is actually a heart.
However, actor Milutin deceived wind, for a moment, just enough to tell us an
anecdote from his youth. Of course with a love theme. Windmills in front, called
Bosniaks, by former owner, grandfather or great-grandfather teacher Bosniaks from
Zrenjanin. Meanwhile to get back to Melenci windmill. Which is used to grind wheat
and corn. We are, therefore, it is outside the village, alone. Although that's not true. I
mean, today, in these postmodern times. He's no longer alone. Nevertheless it is
lonely. Not alone because, around it - a large tank, and dairy factory there. Irrigation

11
System, on the other side of the road which led through oil, exactly what the song
Radivoj Šajtinac where the thresholds coming back native forest. All of them are like
the guard of honor of the Monument no hands of agricultural architecture. Even we
sometimes seem like a cable connection to the Knight of the Banat from all sorts of
La Mancha.
Bosnjak windmill looking , mill which that feeds on the wind, directly in the
most beautiful past mendacious anti-hero. Become mute, or damn lucky. Winds of it
is not more informed about developments in this part of the planet. Yet it alone: The
mill and dairy factory are the parts of modern times, and only she, the wounded
windmills in this area of retrograde classy.
These winged giants, according to the list of 1885. The year was in the Banat and
Backa even 280. Now only the first number left. Only two giants still alive! Curug
Residents boast that their windmill prettier. She's from Melenci is unique: no wings.
Nikes without wings. On the way Melenci - Kikinda. Deep in the air. And plain.
Drawn into itself. Silent. I looked before that month, in its darkness. Dense but dry.
And there was fog. Dove soared. They went directly to heaven. Waiting at this
windmill, snowed in with pieces of Banat, which are ideal to become the artistic
motive of Radisa Lucic, a painter who is originally from Melenci. Not that there is no
confidence in digital Photography, but somehow her delight in oil. Nikes without
wings. The victory whom defeats keeps security.

12
„TOSA JOVANOVIC”, ZRENJANIN THEATRE”
THIS IS A HALL, WHICH REMEMBERS HISTORY

Zrenjanin, previously known as the Great Beckerek and Petovgrad, a city of

about 100,000 inhabitants, is the seat of the Banat region, in the province of
Vojvodina, in Serbia. All these were parts of the former state of Yugoslavia. He is still
a prestigious cultural center. The prevailing Serbian environment represented the
languages and cultures of the Hungarians, Romanians, Slovaks and many other
nations. In this city in 1839 was built the first theater building. For the theater and
other events actually adopted, State Grain magazine, which did settlers from Spain
originally build. In fact, in the 18 century, immigrants from Biscay and Barcelona
have been working on digging up the remains Becskerek fortress which was
demolished 1701. A little later, the Turks were finally expelled from the region. Of
the material that is left of the ruined Besckerek fortress built facility Magazine for
cereals. The building, much later, it was the first building in Serbia for the art of
theater. The story would not be complete and that it does not know the legend, and
she says that theater is born from the immense love of a wealthy citizen of then
Becskerek the famous actress from Budapest. To get closer to himself and brought
to his hometown, he has financed the building of the theater where actress perform.
The city owned the building. The town council in the first period gave way to the
hall free, with heating and lighting, Theater Company. They have appeared at first
Hungarian and German troops and later amateur groups from Kikinda, Pancevo, and
Vrsac. It is interesting that in a Becskerek in German and taken out the play "Death
of Emperor Tsar". The local newspaper " Grossbetschkereker Vochenblat" appeared
regularly reviews of these performances. Cultural life in this part of Banat is evident
in mid-century speeds.

13
 The present appearance of the theater and its significant room gain after
reconstruction and renovation carried out in 1985. The interior preserves thanks to
the original plans, restored and authentic. Baroque interior is of great beauty,
acoustics and functionality, and is a chamber type. The annular space, above the
auditorium, decorated with wall paintings, which include all the usual elements of
theater. This area is painted with garlands of flowers and theatrical masks
that symbolizes comedy and tragedy.
In New Becskerek is 1845 born actor Tosa Jovanovic. According to him, the
present theater was named. This was done in 1945. In this building begins with the
work of professional theater with great success participating in the theatrical life of
Yugoslavia and Serbia. In later times, the structure of this theater includes the
puppet theater, which also has a great reputation. There are many great
performances played in this magnificent hall, several dramatic artists starring in her
theater stage, several excellent puppeteers are rumored tales for children.
It is a remarkable director, set designer, costume designer. Alternate everyone
but the audience enjoyed and applauded. Just this old and well-preserved room,
changed through age’s duration, always attractive and dignified, and today, after
173 years, enables creating performances in honor of Talia.

14
RESTAURANT ACROSS THE STREET FROM ANCIENT
BUFFALO BILL'S CIRCUS

Again, we are in Zrenjanin, Vojvodina town that boasts the oldest theater halls in
Serbia. My friend Mischa Kozarev, former excellent drummer, suggested me that go
in one typical and representative Banat inn. To enjoy in the atmosphere and have
dinner. When I accepted the proposal, I do not know that this release in greatly
surpasses a good dining experience. Going to a restaurant "Banat Shack" or in the
original - Banatska Koliba, turned into a kind of Ethnology and Folklore happening.
The impression is as if we that evening excellent eating and drinking in a somewhat
special “museum” of regional culture of life.
However, first things first. From the title of this comment. Object, where is this
restaurant really is - a few hundred meters from the former meadow, called
Vašarište, that once, many years ago, it served as a place for sale livestock and other
goods from the country. There were therefore staged fairs. At that point, back in
1906, shown with much success, the famous "Buffalo Bill Wild West Show." With
participation the Indians, cowboys, buffalo and Mustangs. This city then called the
Great Beckerek, and was host Bill Cody, actually, Buffalo Bill, who was on the
European tour. Today, across of that location, and the football stadium, placed the
restaurant "Banat Shack." The facade of the building is in the typical style of the
Banat, with two labels: a year when the 2000th and last name of the owner -
Tadejin. The present house built on the foundations of the previous object, which
made a hundred years before Buffalo Bill was in Becskerek. A current Restaurant
building was built with the material, bricks, roof tiles, wood, which is collected from
all over Vojvodina, with preconditions that made more than 100 years. Therefore,
this building today, by materials, technology and construction project - is the

15
authentic Banat home that date is only a little annoying. The floor in a restaurant is
done, by custom Banat Swabians, from brick got throughout the environment.
Besides the entrance, we find another Banat invention: a high Sweep (Đeram), a
device for extracting water in the fields, and on which stands a basket full of chaff. It
was in old times, without telephones and mobile, a sign for the reapers in the field -
that homemaker finished lunch! This times the hosts they cooked dinners. The local
environment of the ancient Serbian-Hungarian-German culinary culture - which
means the Banat, supper was the following: Appetizer - folk bread from wheat flour,
headaches, bacon of swine races “Manguljica” and white sausage. Then soup of
poultry, with all parts of the meat. Main dish - Venison goulash is cooked Chef Janos
Kurunci, Hungarian from the nearby villages. For dessert, they served the noodles
with poppy seeds. With the meal, we drank wine from city Vrsac. White wine named
"Vrzole". Moreover, it was remarkable. Food we eat had enough calories for a whole
platoon of soldiers!
We were very impressed with the quality of food, service just domestic,
ethnic and inspiring ambiance. We also enjoyed the music, the Serbian-Hungarian,
carried out by the orchestra "Old Sweep"." How do you and do not be satisfied when
in „ Banatska Koliba “once are enjoyed and the presidents of Serbia, numerous
ambassadors, senators and congressional representatives, the princesses and sports
idols.

16
ECSKA
LAKE THAT REMEMBER MUSIC FRANZ LISZT

In my mental library offering, under the heading '' Ecska'' flashes on the first page
dominated by a lake. Surging in all seasons where I remember it. Changes are only
skies, never completely clear but not completely covered with clouds. However the
morning light with fog mixed with the taste of the beginning, midday light - with
elements of eternity and some of the essentials uprightness solar pillar, which the
heavens watch on the surface of the water, and evening lighting which calling
History and melancholy. Ecska's lake, of course sees the unusual light and through
fishing nets, full of carp and its Russian'' relative'', carp and grass carp. The sky
above Ecska, countryside, lakes, castles, and artists, who spend decades in the art
colony, of course, are often in reality, wholly clear. Only in my memories, it has a
range of sfumato, the music of Franz Liszt in the distance. This locality nears
Zrenjanin it has many exclusive. Alternately, being it time to time, in fragments
grew. However, in the near future, this natural reserve can, with a lot of work and
research, to become a prestigious tourist - research destination. Direct vicinity
Imperial Bar, habitat and transit stations birds from around the world just
completed this charming offer history, adventure, art and gastronomy.
This lake is over all that surrounds it, but most of the historical and other
events in this region only begin with the raising of the castle. This is true, regardless
of what current design of this building does not say so. Red Castle, so named by
color was built in 1783. He picked up the owner of the property, Lazar Lukas,

17
Armenian by origin. It was a single-storied building, with a facade in the English
style. The building faces on river Bega. It is surrounded by a park; they come from
behind barns and stables. Successor the estate and castle, Janos Lazar, fell in the line
of enlightened landowners. He wrote poems and was a talented for music. He
practiced fencing with much success. Poetry and music is, unfortunately, did not
help to avoid serious injury from Sword opponent. The Irony is that just a castle in
Ecska, the famous Castle, was a focal point for the masters of foil and saber fencing.
Therefore, after the incident “Forest'' ball'', in the village Elemir, nobleman Janos
Lazar, killed in a duel, defending the honor of a girl, the daughter of a clerk Torontal
County. Since her fiance, allegedly from Timisoara, did not respond to the insult that
she has done an aspiring Hussar lieutenant, Ecska's count Lazar, on 17 June in 1809.
in an unknown location near the village of Elemir, defeated by the much younger
rival. Which history does not report name. Has remained a part of the secret history,
written the castle, which, of course, records and other family quarrels and bloody
conflict.
In 1820 was completed the construction of the Castle, regrettably can not be
said in today's look, because the building, a number of interventions, lost much on
authenticity, and its restoration is a precondition of every modern tourism use. Big
and rich ceremonial opening of the castle brought together a multitude of guests
who arrived, with many European parties, began with the lighting of the flares. After
the consecration of Kastel and festive lunch, for men is organized hunting. To their
wives and daughters organized a trip to the gondolas on the Grand (the Ecska) lake
and river Bega. Ball in the evening intended as the culmination of a ceremony.
Therefore, it was the 1820. However, the latter history records another event, which
took place the next day afternoon, as the most important.
On the last day of August, in the great hall of the castle, the famous Austro-
Hungarian Count Esterhazy organized a piano concerto of his ward, future virtuoso
pianist and famous composers - Franz Liszt. The crowd certainly enjoyed his music
making, though, I'm almost sure, no one felt the revelation that just took place in
front of them - the announcement of future geniuses, just in Ecska's rewire.
However, then it should not bother us present one, to this, and even a coincidence,
do not use it as an art and tourist incentive. Here, in the Castle of Ecka, with support
from the nearby Zrenjanin
1956 year was established "Art Colony" in order to organize and encourage the
visual arts. As founder of the Colonies were painters Zoran Petrovic and Tivadar
Vanjek. The large park around the castle became the ideal place for painting in
outdoor. Around the lake, which is still strewn with velvet and covered the sky
where, believe it or not, reflected in the past tense. I hear the music of Franz Liszt.

P.S. In Meanwhile, the castle restored. And now acts representative. Just waiting on
some young people with an unconventional plan how to castle and gallery has
finally become inspired for tourists and art lovers from Europe.

18
THE OLD BEGA - CARSKA BARA - IMPERIAL SWAMP

Lake, near the village Ecska, in the Serbian province of Vojvodina, is a relic of
the Old Bega. This lake used for years as a plant breeding freshwater fish. The
original Bega River, created long ago from many parts of the lake, the construction
of the navigation channel Bega, mid-18th century, which conducted by Count
Florimund grace, the governor of Banat, ceased to exist. In addition Ecska lakes, and
the remaining "Imperial bar-imperial marsh “, which' consists of a triangle
extraordinary territory. Early as in ancient times, this mining district turned into a
space rich in flora and fauna. This is unlikely combination of water, plants, birds and
animals. Imperial swamp is their habitat. The bar appeared at the bottom of the
geological legendary Pannonian Sea.
Now people as tourists, explorers, hunters and natives visit it. It is complex
geo-morphological, botanical, zoological, and metaphysical system. A contour
defines the space, which is in the middle of the plains there is an oasis of the past.
However, perhaps the Imperial bar has, hidden in the depths of an ancient, and
some germs of the future. With little exaggeration, that happiness away from any
politics, just as fabulous decorating, this is area be called '' Banat Bermuda Triangle”.
For all this, strangely, it happens in the Banat. The possibility that that it is possible
not only asks in game of the senses, which are sufficiently open to poetic language of
metaphysics in this area. Confirmation that such a thing is possible, I read in the
story Zrenjanin storyteller Alexander Bjelogrlić. He, in fact, in the story'''' Kraken, a
subtle combination of travelogue and almost realistic fiction, if such a thing exists, of

19
his hero confronts in the twilight of a corner Svamp whose bottom is perhaps been
neglected in the ancient beginnings of history. In the Bjelogrlic book, '' Anonimus'' is
still good and the phantasmagoric stories of similar content.
"Imperial Svamp" is unusual and the protected region. In fact, an oasis of untouched
nature, and how to say in tourismologists language, this is the intended area of
peace and beauty. Swamp set in the heart of the Central Banat urban surroundings,
only sixty kilometers from Belgrade and Novi Sad, and twelve of Zrenjanin. That was
an ideal place for rest and takes a break after long-term operation. Cruise or walking
through the swamp of the Imperial is ideal opportunity, in imagination, to meet
fantastic creatures that emerge from the bowels of ancient life.
With a little insight to how the world works with its natural resources, and a
lot of their own work, and the fictional ''Kraken” from Banat became the Pannonian
version of the world's dragon and other monsters from the tour guides. As Nessie!
The local hotel, the name of the mythical'' Sybil'', named after a daughter named
Lazarus count, the property owners of the past, it fits well into the future exclusives.
Science, of course, all these miracles, which shows the number of visitors to the
marshy areas, it is easy to explain. Are those only natural phenomenons: an unusual
concentration of river, swamp plants? There are an enormous bird conglomeration,
impressive stock of fish, and enough small game. Imperial swamp is Great zoo-
botanical garden that has no roof, no visible fences. In "Imperial Svamp," what part
of the former plant and animal life, therefore past nature, and still function well.
With or without the mythical creatures - as who like! With occasional exchange,
gases and fluids, even with ancient geological materials originated, which is difficult
to prove but it would be logical that it does not exist.
I mean, of course, the famous "Pannonian Sea," as if calling from the past
wasteland. Archaeology tells how a man stays here for at least 6,000 years,
according to trace the rim of the IMPERIAL SWAMP, near city Titel and village
Muzla, to officially name the states of UNESCO'''' protected region. At one time, in
the wilderness, where between water and sky stays over 25 different fish families
and 250 species of birds, Attila the Hun leader had one of its warrior bivouac.
When you switch back, the few miles to the "Sibyl," to turn in a great way that leads
to Ecka, where in imagination could again meet a trace Austrian Crown Prince
Ferdinand, one of the castles in Konopiště, who went to Sarajevo. There is,
unfortunately, an assassination attempt on him. Ferdinand was killed. In a gentle
wilderness '' Banat Bermuda Triangle," this a passionate hunter in the 19th century,
hunted rabbits, deer and wild swine.
An at the edge of the Swamp, by Franz called Imperial, or Imperial Swamp, at
the site known as Tiganjica, once the writer of this postcard, with Steve Reeves,
played in the movie '' The Siege of Troy”. Steve Reeves was naturally present as a
lead actor, while the author of the text was a simple extra.

20
MELENCI
IN MUD THAT HAS THE MAGIC: RUSANDA

This lake, Rusanda knows during the summer heat to dry up. Bottom
completely cracked so cyclists cannot ride on the bottom. In addition, I once just saw
bikers and equestrians how passing through the metaphorical base of the
Pannonian Sea, which is according to biochemical content (sulfuric acid, sodium
sulfate, sodium carbonate, magnesium salts and calcium) and healing straight
Marienbad and Frantisek Lazne.
Only they had more luck in life. Joking aside, spa Rusanda next Melenci is
certainly part of the elite European spas-based mud and it is mineral and (radio)
active Substances. While this October, the length of time Indian summer, I walk
quite rustic, which can mean rough, Rusanda coast, green-yellow water reminded
me of the Balaton. For Balaton can be said that it is actually Sea mud or muddy lake.
It is larger in Hungary and this in Banat more healing. They geographers the lake
Rusanda, next Okanj-Mutljača and Islands, created in the meanders Tisza River
fluctuations this area. Perhaps they are right. Alternatively, at least partially. It must
be that Pannonian Sea had a hand. connection, and even mysticism, as in the story of
the Sasha Bjelogrlic Imperial bar, Rusanda between healing and prehistoric
cataclysm where local sea disappears through the Djerdap, there must be!?

21
 Spa there is more than 130 years, and the lake with its valuable mud with
Tisa and without it, who knows them. The earliest observations of alleviating and
healing effects of mud and water from the Rusanda, dating from the 19th century.
First saved analyzes were performed in 1866. This was in Vienna, where it was
founded Limited Company for conversion Melenci Lake in the bath. Ten years expert
team of the Vienna Imperial Academy "Joseph" questioned this mud and water. They
gave the'' green light'' his diseased and wealthy elite that may headed here to the
outskirts of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. With a small delay in comparing the
European fashionable spa. In shallow water, and magical Rusanda surrounded by
pine and linden trees. Guests sit protected from the heat of the plains, with music
playing at sunset that held in a treatment, walking or light bored. On 20 May in 1867
year, when the sanatorium, under its present name began to work as the
endowment of Joseph and Anna Klaric "painful Serbian humanity" muscles, bones
and nerves Banat and of other easier to find a cure. Ever since ancient times, the
inhabitants of Kumane, a nearby village which is the eternal rival Melenci just a little
couch, say that'' Melenci just like that, the spa just like that, but there is one
imperfection - from the railway station, And to the spa has to go to go! It is located
three and a half miles, and no sign of the coach. Now, when there are no trains,
everything is resolved with the help of a taxi!
There in the sky, this makes landscape over Melenci /Rusanda, light that
heals and enlightens. Bottom of the Pannonian Sea who mysteriously there as an
archetypal image that man remembers the historical insomnia, gives off sulfur that
dispels demons. Push out devils from human beings. In these autumn days, Rusanda
is full of those needing help to eradicate pain and disease. However, in today's time,
it seems, the spa village grew village Melence. Not to the residents Melenci which is
everywhere in the world. They have enough mental capacity. This applies to the
citizens of Zrenjanin and the state in general, and more significant, engaging. You
would then Rusanda ashamed of all Carlsbad.

22
NOVI BECEJ
„TISKI CVET „ (TISZA RIVER FLOWER) IN THE NOVI
(NEW) BECEJ

It may sound strange, but besides all the attractions that exist in Novi Becej,
hotel Tiski cvet -"Tisza river flower" represent the central place of life this
Serbia/Vojvodina destination. I've been at it a dozen times and always greeted me
with a catering novelty and a series of stories, initiatives or events. Therefore, this
hotel is more than a tourist facility. It is a cultural center, a spiritual beacon and a
place from which go to all sorts of advanced, entertainment and cultural initiatives.
In Roman times, here on the banks of the Tisza and there was a military camp from
which he observed the territories beyond the limes. They were waiting for the
barbarians! I am, therefore, one of the few hot days this summer, again visited
Novalja. I stayed there in looking for memories of a bygone stay at the Pearl Island.
Locality named after the famous melon breeding for that grows around the Tisza
River, a world-known for its wine „Krokan“, that is, during the communist era, the
former Yugoslav president Tito donates to the Soviet dictator Stalin.
Hotel "Tisza flower" is located in the center of New Becej, on the banks of the
Tisza River, and not large-scale. However, facility is equipped with comfortable
rooms, with cuisine that impressive. The friendly staffs will try to every guest. The

23
terrace, which used for dining, offers a pretty view of the river, which is powerful
but not wild. Each time I stayed at this hotel, I managed to have a good rest and
relaxation. Otherwise, the hotel "Tisza flower," named after an insect that lives in
the depths of the river Tisza and swarms in mid-June. Develop Tisza river flower
after a few minutes of flying over water that to short fly, even by sunset, ended his
life. Then he says that Tisza river flower. This phenomenon "flowering River" is
almost a worldwide phenomenon.
From the hotel, I went to a trip to the famous ruins of the monastery Aracsa. It is the
dozen kilometers away from the present city Novi Becej. Lead a lonely life Aracsa, an
ancient temple, even in the tenth century began, definitely finished 1228th It was a
Benedictine monastery, which, at the time, along with the Turks conquered the
fortress Becej. Win, broke down, and then turned into a mosque. In our time, in this
expressive ruin, with red marble portals, recently adopted from Estragon, only live
pigeons. In addition, the wind, which formed an incredible time for music, which has
a timeless horror? The sight is as for Edgar Allan Poe. We hear only the winds that
blow through the Araçsa and cries of birds.
As I look at this lonely and haunted monumental past, I'm thinking that if we had a
rich country, Araçsá, just cleaned and cleared, should be placed under a glass dome,
and so this ancient architectural fossil, with elements taken from Lombardy style,
confide the following centuries.
After lunch and back to “Tisa flower." They offered us fish soup, of several
species of freshwater fish, and a main course, fried catfish, sends tomatoes and
boiled potatoes sprinkled with parsley. The wine we drank was the famous
"Krokan," made from grapes that grow on the Pearl Island, a small island on the
Tisza River, near Novi Becej. In addition, after a coffee and a little rest we refer to
this island. Moreover, the island is no longer an island, so it leads the way - now it is
a peninsula. On it is and castles. Baron Rohonjci Gedeon built the Castle Pearl Island
late 19th century. It is located in a natural setting sleeve, so called Old Tisza, but
suitable for growing grapes. From this place comes the best wine “Krokan”. The
castle is a storey building with period features classicist. On the main projection
dominated facade with three symmetrically placed windows on the ground floor
and first floor. In the central part of the main facade on the ground floor, there is an
entrance porch. I look like a whole lot of decrepit ambience but most important is
that the wine is still outstanding. I learned these owners of the vineyard and
distillery produce this nectar deliberately kept in relatively small batches; it would
be rare and sought after!
In return, near "Tisza river Flower," I see that the Tisza river flows quietly
and waiting for next year to bloom again.

24
SOMBOR
THIS TOWN IS FOREVER FOR PAINTERS AND POETS

The city of Sombor was always a place where arts bloom. Therefore, here is
bound to look at all the different way. In fact, such a crosscut views of almost
inevitable. That is what I am thinking as I sit in the studio Pavle Blesić, the local
famous artist. Although in Sombor very difficult to acquire the status of a great artist
after Milan Konjovic. In addition, today should not compete with the Save Stojkov,
whose name provokes admiration. So it's in the Sombor in the mid-nineteenth
century, in many ways, was equal to Belgrade and Zagreb. That old Sombor made of
bricks, plaster, and paint and of the imagination, emotion and inspiration alive in
today's reality. There is a memory of a story Veljko Petrovic and gymnastics of the
mind Laza Kostic.
Since all roads lead to the County, through the double row of plane trees,
linden, chestnut, and of course '' Hackberry tree“, they're waiting for us imposing
and impressive image Ferenc Eisenhut "The Battle of Senta" which for 104th The
wall is adorned Festive halls of Sombor County. Place on 20 February 1898, with
great difficulty builders, because of the size of its former management had to tear
down a wall of halls to a large canvas with framed entered. Painting, together with
gold frame, measuring 40 meters square, represents the largest oil painting in the
whole (the former) Yugoslavia.
This is the town through which flows the river Mostonga. Has a center that filled
with buildings from the 18th and 19 century. Around the city center, starting from
the Town Hall, says writer David Kecman, in concentric circles, Sombor is spreading
Backa country. Because of his brilliant strategic position, he appointed as the
permanent seat of Backa-Bodrog County. That was in 1786. Then the Sombor was a

25
second largest city of the then existing 75 counties in Hungary. A part was her Novi
Sad and Subotica. A year before that lived in Sombor 13,360 inhabitants, who on 1
September 1789 got their first post office, which will be located in the so-called.
"Turkish House," one of the two buildings remaining from that time.
This town known for three visual artists. The first is the incredible, explosive
expressionist and colorist Milan Konjovic. He already holds an enviable place in the
history of the Arts Balkans and Central Europe. Idyllic, appealing and exceptionally
skillful master of landscape and portraiture, Sava Stojkov, and finally complex,
reflective and sophisticated painter of the old Sombor, its patina, deposited
centuries and a modern vision of the actual flow of time and artistic - Pavle Blesić,
just give this city a European artistic dimension. Yesterday, today, and tomorrow
they will mark!
Otherwise, it's time to face Sombor alleys almost wiped cabs, artesian wells,
inns and tambourine players, all the things by which a well-known Sombor. One can
find however by that carriage. Tambura players here and there are. Zvonko Bogdan
still sings'''' In this Sombor. Can women drink wine, I do not really know.
All that and such Sombor, as it once seemed, asleep now, and protrudes slightly
now, the National Museum of the city. There are collections of material and spiritual
culture of the city and the region. In addition, a large collection represented it of fine
art in which every year organizes a representative exhibition titled "Sombor
autumn."

SOMBOR - TOWN AS A PICTURE FROM KALEIDOSCOPE

26
 First rule for understanding the Vojvodina `s city Sombor, is: take a walk
through the street Zmaj Jovina. There you will feel the charm of the Pannonian
refinement. This street seems as if all the Baroque and Art Nouveau emerged in it.
In current times, seem surprising that once at the end of your street waiting Fiacre's,
as a liaison with the past and the romantic period it is logical, however, that at the
other end lurking modern life. However, I would say, this city has more of that old!
His colorful, tasty, varied, fragrant and musical equipped panoramas are always a
challenge for very tempting and me.
I think that is the hardest but best to write ''Postcard'' from the landscape
that you know well. It is even more complicated; evoke outlook cities that you think
you know them well. When it comes to Sombor, I am certain that my experience of
this city of Vojvodina intense. A little bit recession cut into the circumstances of life
today. The correspondent originates and from fantasy, imagination and artistic past
of his former and current residents. All this, the virtual city, would fit under the
heading of Ravangrad as the dreams Veljko Petrovic called this his town, in where
hilarious Laza Kostic, lived almost simultaneously, between waking and sleep.
Layered and split into at least two layers. Sombor is a real one, just with different
eyes see. Even today, in this city is going through streets framed by trees.
Vegetation is his pride. The citizens of Sombor are proud of trees called hackberry,
whose origins are North American. There is titled American Hackberry (Celtics
occidentals), whereas here this tree grows only in Sombor. Watching it how
standing proudly in the pictures Pavle Blesić, united with gates, fences, and relief
and family genealogies. Moreover, I know that some noble past resembles the
eternal Sombor to them.

27
 When evening came, it was time to go to the National Theatre Sombor,
because this time I actually came to this city in northern Bačka that I attended
theatrical premiere. It is a building classicist style, with characteristics of
eclecticism. It built until November 1882 when it shown the first piece of theater
since then, the theater operating continually in Sombor. Continuing professional
theater works since 1946. In Year, 1952 became the National Theatre. Inside
Sombor, theater building, actually in the hall, designed in Art Nouveau style, and this
night was full of Sombor theater audience. Let us keep the record, the piece
performed by Dusan Kovacevic „Balkan Spy“. After the performance, the audience,
actors and guests, went to dinner at the Hotel-Restaurant "Andric".

PALIC
LAKE THAT EVOKES RELAXED TIMELESSNESS

28
 Although I came in Palic, only the Pannonia lake who competes Lake Balaton,
primarily because of the Film Festival, morning I dedicated to visit the zoo. Of
course, we will walk along the coast, to the Ladies Bath! However, for those who
have not yet come here: Palic is a small village 6 kilometers from the town of
Subotica and 5 kilometers from the E75 Budapest - Belgrade highway. The zoo is
located close to the lake and wide-open spaces are almost twice the size of Belgrade.
It has a smaller animal, but makes up for it all size and serenity of green space. In
this region, the people and of animals exposed to feel far more humane than in
similar gardens placed in the town center. Really, the time spent in Palic zoo enables
beautiful and pleasant relaxation. The garden established in 1949, on the territory of
10 hectares.
Strange, but this natural matinee proved to be a quite adequate announcement of
stay in Palic. Indeed, from '' Lifka, never recorded movie'' on Subotica I went directly
to the stone Summer Stage in Palic.
I arrived for the opening of the International Film Festival. I came to the event
through which blow European's cinematographic and global winds. Because what
we need, is a permanent, mild wind. We already have enough cobwebs. However,
fortunately, there is no in Palic. There is a lake, with a coastline framed it and follow
17 miles. A representative for 160 years was part of Subotica, Vojvodina, northern
Serbia, and that part of Central Europe where it with Balkans touches.
On Palic almost blows pleasant breeze. This dominates by peace and serenity but
not stuffiness and boredom. In the pine forest, 1950, designed by Balthazar Dulic,
built stone Summer Theatre. Near has closed cinema hall. In addition, is made tennis

29
courts. Nearby there is a Zoo. Moreover, it all starts from the water tower (built in
1912). Beside it officially enters the spa-lake-park complex. In addition, 1912 year
was officially opened The Town Hall of Subotica, Grand Terrace, and Ladies Bath
and mentioned Water tower - on Palic. Starting from the 1897th, in Subotica, on this
side started to go trams. Noble city of Subotica, from that time to the beginning of
the century, got a resort, but also elite and populist because Ludos addition, it is the
residents here in the north of Backa, and any other only water navigable-bathing
surface.
The first day of the festival, and staying in Palic, we completed on gala dinner, which
prepared by the Festival in the "Small inn - Kisvendelo," which has its origins back in
the 1856. With the local culinary specialty, which includes the Hungarian dishes, the
famous wine from the sand, which is present in the environment, sunset on the
lakeshore, was unusually friendly. There would certainly Proust found his lost time.
Palic, therefore, makes me feel a relaxed timelessness. Here, the Allen and Rene,
safely, could make the continuation of his cult film '' Last Year at Marienbad''. I am
convinced that role Palic quite calmly accepted. A slight sense of "déjà vu'', because
somewhere in their spa's beginning (1845), this largely light in Baedeker of Austria-
Hungary, the language is almost equal to Karlovy Vary, Wiesbaden, St. Moritz.

30
PALIC
FROM SMALL INN TO WOMEN AND MALE
STRAND

Lake mud is healing, and in 1845. constructed bathroom and Palic became the spa.
Mid-19th century, on the north coast has planted a beautiful park, built hotels, and
then there are wealthier Subotica's built summerhouses. Lake Palic besides many
hours of pleasant walks, and is suitable for swimming. Moreover, we swim in it. The
water is almost the same as the Lake Balaton. Lukewarm and slightly turbid. About
bathing, however, there is an interesting story about the long existence of two
beaches. Female and male. Of course, these are the objects and habits from the days
when women and men bathe separately. They were in costumes that covered the
entire body.
We walked up to the two baths whose names are now part of the history of
Palic. After the First World War, on the east coast of Palic was built Men Bath (or
known as a strand), the largest facility of its kind in the former Yugoslavia, where
they bathed only by men, while women were bathing in the separate women's
Strand. Ladies Bath certainly worth a visit and look closely at this charming wooden
building with plenty detail of folk art in itself. Even in the first half of the 20th
century, since 1912. Years, built this large wooden building on the water, which
used to hide bathers from the view of curious.

31
Today is Ladies bath coffee shop, where you can feel free to sip your favorite drink
on the terrace and imagine what it was like in a not so distant shy time.
However, since we are here for the film festival, we talk about the film. First Cinema
maker in this region is Alexander Lifka. The festival Palic awarded the prize that
bears his name. The writer Petko Vojnic Purcar, born in Subotica, says of this lake,
which is now a competitor only beautiful Lake Balaton:
"Do not let the reservoir mine, and no one's / Grounded dress, seedlings
come / with ozone under the arm rests his head / on sunflower and go up."
Balaton is with Hungary, but enough in Europe. Our Palic, however, more
pleasant, more romantic, with more Art Nouveau and cozy charm of old times. This
refinement is flashing over the lake. Balaton by surface is more like the sea.
Although it is shallow, lowland waters, the world knows him well. Palic are also
among the 1880th and 1914. Sports and maintained in race walking, cycling,
wrestling, and fencing. Conducted by Lajos Vermes, athletes from Sombor, Senta,
Szeged, Budapest, Belgrade and Subotica, entered in this peaceful scenery ghost of
knighthood, and persistence. It was a little Olympics. True, it must say, because I
said so, that for this lake, in the past, and several related amorous and erotic
intrigue. Even was some gambling scandal. However, all this is normal and expected
for famous spas. Without that, no go.

32
PETROVARADIN
FORTRESS THAT LOOKING IN THE DANUBE

I once spent a few days in the studio painter Bora Poprzan. On the Petrovaradin
Fortress. We shot some television record of this artist. We went to this painter,
which, looking out the window, breakfast is embedded in the walls of the historic
fortress, overlooks into the river Danube and the city of Novi Sad. Then I
remembered a sentence poet Matija Beckovic about "How and painting is a point of
view.” I had a similar idea as I looked into the Danube and Novi Sad, and the tower,
which seems to control Vojvodina. In addition, with Vrsac`s hill devises all sorts of
dreams.
The Petrovaradin fortress as a mythical bird settled over this ancient river. Not that
she control dreams, but to defend them from all kinds of evils. This gigantic not
emerged from Srem country just to protect the city, the glorious Novi Sad. However,
the river and the plain reconcile all the immensity. Through the long years of its
existence, this building is a real military configuration, only occasionally served as a
warning to potential invaders, whiles the longer existed as a historical metaphor, Of
course, there as a monument to military construction technology and power. The
short history of the fort, and the existence of military use, looks something like this:
At the beginning of the last century BC, the Celts inhabited area of Petrovaradin.
Two centuries later replaced by the Romans, who erected their fortress Kusum in
the area between the present Petrovaradin and Sremska Kamenica. The turning
point in the history of Petrovaradin is the 1235th years when the Hungarian King

33
Bella IV of the monarchy Cistercians settled in the province of Champagne in France.
Then he built the first major military stronghold in the parish Cistercian monastery.
After the fall of Belgrade in 1521, the direction of the Turkish conquest was walking
toward the northwest, and the conquest of medieval Petrovaradin was one of the
episodes in the Ottoman campaign against Hungary and Vienna. Fortified
Petrovaradin was busy 27 July 1526th year. Austrian Army 1687, the occupied the
fortress and immediately begins to prepare for the construction of the new defense
facility. A preliminary design is, presumably, the Austrians borrowed.
Moreover, he comes from the French military architect Vauban Marquis Sebastian,
who was one of the leading builders of the modern fortress seventeenth and
eighteenth centuries. The Prince of Savoy, Count Carafe, Field Marshal Prince
Chaparral and Joseph supervised the construction. The work lasted almost a
century.
Impressive building, a long history, and the importance of the impression, and
today stand at the beginning of the Pannonia Plain. It rises immediately in front of
Fruska Hill. Below the visible dimensions, but slightly damaged walls, towers,
terraces, loopholes, hiding many quarters, magazines, cell and who knows what else.
Up, the most prominent place, there is the famous clock. A clock tower, which
showed correct time ships that sail on the Danube. The clock is now a trademark of
the fortress. The locals know it, the residents of Novi Sad but also tourists from
around the world. On the fortress are a museum and a nearby military hospital.
Special story is the fact that under this building there incredible circuit subways,
shelters, walls and all kinds of regrets wonders builders invented for the sake of the
defense of the stronghold. These tunnels, which lay people resemble the labyrinth,
by some calculations consisted of 20 km of deep underground passages.
Underground fortress is its major attraction, but untapped, all experts agree. This
unique system had provided for the installation of minefields, as well as room for its
soldiers, weapons and 12,000 loopholes. Underground galleries under emergency
conditions can give a necessary accommodation for over 30,000 people. In the
underground, there are two backup wells war.
So much for the tunnels in the underground fortress, which visit daily
excursions, tourists, students and other curious people. At the beginning of each
summer Petrovaradin fortress became the host of the famous festival of rock and
pop music.

34
NOVI SAD
WHILE DANUBE FLOWS BETWEEN PETROVARADIN
AND ŠTRAND

I was in Novi Sad countless times. I even worked on it for 20 years. I wonder,
though, how would you recommend a tourist from Europe, America or anywhere in
the world. First, I would have said that it is the largest city of the Autonomous
Province of Vojvodina, Northern Province of Serbia, as well as the seat of the
provincial government and administrative center of the South Backa region. The city
is located on the border region of Backa and Srem, on the banks of the Danube River
and Little Grand Canal, in the Pannonian plains and the northern slopes of Fruska
up. Found 1694th The Novi Sad has long been a center of Serbian culture, which
named "Serbian Athens." With the addition, it is now a multinational and multi-
religious town (live here, among Serbs, Hungarians, Slovaks, Romanians, Russians,
Roma, Jews and many others).
My choice of what to do in Novi Sad for a day and a night, he would look like
this: I stayed at the Hotel Leopold I Fortes's, which is located on the site of Petrograd
Fortress. It has a very balanced combination of traditional and modern. This is a
hotel with magnificent views of the Danube and Novi Sad. You will have the
overwhelming impression that you are guests in a castle. I still remember all kinds
of space and refinement and comfort of the bathroom. I had a night's peace in a
room that is spacious but not cramped with furniture. Decorate with style.

35
In addition, while you are at the fort, we should look around this historic complex.
Petrovaradin Fortress: This imposing building not sprung from Srem country just to
protect this city, rejoicing Novi Sad. However, there are the river and the plain to
reconcile all its immensity. I suppose the fortress and the city, Novi Sad, in the
eternal dialogue. Love, though. However, that sparks going constantly. Travel
through the ages. However, no one gives up. Time it does not move. Neither the City,
nor fortress. Their profile is two stories in one historical piece. This is a temporary
but lifelong friendship. Petrovaradin, overgrown and underground enigma, and
Novi Sad, which before did not exist was growing old town. Petrovaradin`s Fortress
is anchor that this part of the world holds together. Within the vibration
transmitted from Rusk Central European space. Besides this, once a military fort,
which has a multitude of towers, loopholes, guns and underground passages and
catacombs, placed in the old town of Petrovaradin? His preserved facades and
streets tempt, staff to commit to them.
The logical continuation of this story is going to a nearby Fruška Gora, - the
mountain which stands guard over the city, the Danube and Petrovaradin.
Since we do not have much time, just go to Iriski wreath, a low ridge or fold on
Fruska Gora, which is a favorite resort of the population of Novi Sad. The valleys and
slopes of Fruska Gora covered with meadows, pastures and cornfields. On the slopes
are the orchards and vineyards, the property of the famous wine cellars. The parts
taller than 300 meters covered with dense deciduous forest. At Frushka Gora are
largest concentration lime trees in Europe. We are located about 520 meters above
sea level. Pleasant for walking, the air is clean and fresh. All around us forests. Trails
are soft. There are birds, passers-by. Children are running around the fields while
adults play football. It is here, just twenty minutes drive from the city, an oasis of
freshness and natural atmosphere. Since Saturday, some of the tourists here on the
grass, make a barbecue lunch and some will referred nearby monasteries.
We are going back to Nov Sad. First, the lunch, and the afternoon we planned
to go for a swim. At the famous city, beach Strand. We went first to Ribarsko ostrvo
(Fishing Island); the area is actually a peninsula. There are hotels and restaurants,
right next to the shipyard. We sit on the terrace, which is next to the Danube. After
the appetizers, we ate cheese, ham, prosciutto, and olives of course and brandy,
We order fish soup. They bring us served in a pot beneath which there is a fire
burning. In soup kettle is where besides white fish and pieces of catfish. The dish is
spicy but very tasty. As a main meal brought us sturgeon, baked in butter with a side
dish of rice. With the meal, we drank of wine from Ilok or Irig, I forgot.
This afternoon we go to the bank of the Danube, to beach Štrand. It was
officially opened in 1911. year but the locals used it years ago. Name Štrand derived
from the German word Strand that in English means. On the beach is a big Saturday
crowd but, but through a friend we managed to get tickets to the cabin, where the
seat cover and leave clothes. They say that we were lucky because this cabin
normally reserved for the entire season, anywhere else in the spring.
We are entering the water. Danube's water on this day was not too hot and a bit
blurry. However, it feels good and refreshing. Underfoot is the sand, while the
Danube in quiet, but powerful flows. On the other side of the Danube is the
Petrovaradin. Over a nearby bridge traffic roars. While I lie on sun, from

36
monographs of the Strand learn that the beach was initially divided into male and
female parts. With tickets received and swimsuit although most of the girls came in
their own costumes. For the house rules on "Švimšule" was responsible Chief
Constable, who is the eyeing the length skirts on women's bathing suits and made
sure that man do not walk around naked. About strict rule is the fact to every
woman with naked breasts, lifetime bans on beaches.
I look back on the beach and I determine that even today there is no topless,
only girls with scarce bathing suits. However, who would keep all that under control
when the peak season here finds over 15,000 swimmers. This is enough for one day
spent in Novi Sad.

37
OVER “FRUSKA GORA” MOUNTAIN TO SAVA
ŠUMANOVIĆ

In Ruma, a small town in Srem, I got over Fruska hill that has just begun to be
changing in autumn: still green, with copper that only appears while the sun fulfills
the last day of October light, as it comes directly from the travelogue poet Crnjanski
of Tuscany. On Iriski Venac, Milos Crnjanski I even heard those whispers autumn
fragments from his famous poem "Stražilovo" "But slowly, traces its going, I suspect,
there will be silence, when all this withers, and me, and me, traces its going. „
Previously I was in Irig, passing by famous wineries, recalled Mihiz (Borislav
Mihajlovic) and his unconventional "Autobiographies of others." Trumpet Steve Gut
in Ruma me sad with the song sung by Bajaga "On the other handbag." It reminded
me of my friend Slobodan Jaksic, Jale, who was born here in Ruma and lost the race
for life.
Go to Sid. Go to visit the gallery Sava Šumanović. To look around a collection
of pictures of one of the most prominent Serbian painters whom respected and
Europe. In addition, it feels good colored decor such as the introduction of Srem.
Especially the fact that autumn around me not too broached Wilier embroidery. A
visit to the Sava Šumanović I promised one French woman. The same one that did
not come to me from Normandy. I'm going to visit the memories of the great writers
Margaret Duras and Proust. She loves pictures Šumanović "Drunken Boat." She
loved and Rimbaud, too. His „Bateau ever „ - Sleeps at night green, full of snowy
splendor, My French girlfriend says that picture Save Šumanovića, the Boat, You

38
reminiscent of the work of "Raft of the Medusa" by Žeriko. The famous Serbian poet
Rastko Petrovic, a friend Sava Šumanović, recited Rimbaud.
On the highway now, everything is somehow changed. In addition, nature has
become prosaic. However, there was nothing like in Jack Kerouac, similar as in his
"On the Road." Moreover, the radio in the car screwed. Trying to beat the silence
with the CD of Chris Rea - "Road to Hell," we also remained out of reach. While I
travel for Sid. What became silent on the border? The impersonality thinned
communication with former brothers. In addition, Europe is somewhere in the mist.
Then, suddenly, probably not far from the capital, again Crnjanski. To complement
this a bright and melancholy sunny day in the middle of autumn: „Jan Mayen and my
Srem, Paris, my dead comrades, cherries in China ... " Almost whispered Milos in the
infinitely sad and imperishable poem „ Lament over Belgrade“.
In addition, Tatiana, I misplaced in Lyon, loves Šumanović pictures, the ones
that remind us of André Lhote. In Adaševci, just as I watched the board for Morović,
forest and hunting oasis, which was the great Marian shrine, I remembered that, and
Simeon Piščević, military dignitaries, celebrated in Russia, was born in nearby Sid.
His "Memoirs" served as an inspiration and material to Milos Crnjanski for the
grandiose novel “Migration."
Finally, I am coming in Sid. The city is clean and pleasant. Slightly wavy. It
belongs to the wine settlements. Here is Šumanović Homeland. I am going down the
street Saint Sava. I reach Gallery. I know that it has no portrait of Milos Crnjanski
from 1921 year. With the inscription: "my friend." However, full of his other,
relevant and images. Already is noon. If I for a moment went out of town, I saw how,
with Fruska hill, guards its highest peak - Red Cot, and looks at me with its 539
meters above sea level. The pride and the Pannonian Mountains, whose name
"Fruška" comes from the old Slavic word ethnonym Fruge, synonyms for Frank,
which gives meaning to the name of the mountain as a "mountain of the Franks."
They were once the conquerors of this area!

39
WITH ŠUMANOVIĆ’S BATHERS, SECRETLY

In Sid, am. It was about noon. In Srem, sun is shining. While I go towards the
Gallery, one Šumanović`s in the street "Saint Sava" recalls the letters that he wrote
to the Sava Crnjanski, as here, in Sid haunted detectives, agents, unknown people. It
was a lot before this painter for real, brutal and bestial cut down the real villains.
Milos Crnjanski seen similar phantoms in London. It was a many years later, living
in a similar paranoia ace and his blood brother from Sid. That is, at the very end of
his Parisian period, for seven days and nights of intensive work, painted a picture of
"Drunken Boat," which was exhibited at the Salon of Independent Artists. The hard
work has further eroded his nerves. However the celebrated!
I go to the Gallery. Polite curator informs me legacy that is only partially because
one part reconstructed. In permitted area, which is full sleeves and unusual
shortening - a mini-setting total Šumanović oeuvre. Šid landscapes, including the
celebrated, winter. There are nudes, portraits of children, French cubist period. I
looked, in fact, quite a representative selection. Then, unexpectedly but challenging:
the right the room to show the door ajar looks in the "prohibited" reconstruction of
an indoor collection.
I was in a dilemma whether to peek in some restricted area gallery. The moment
we seem convenient, as the curators did not present while video monitoring turned

40
off. It seemed to me, for a moment, that my Frenchwoman encourages it. I decided to
obey. Therefore, for the next ten minutes I dwell in a somewhat artistic poaching.
Immerse in spontaneously freeze Šumanović Bather, Feller and Girls Sid who me
with a random and temporary density simply drains into the visual magic at the
bottom as if I catch sight of the magic of Nicolas Poussin, a favorite painter Andre
Lhote. He was a role model and Sava Sumanović.
Under the strong impression, this art "adventure" in the restricted zone
Šumanović `s galleries this poaching, which is the "fault" Tatiana, I almost miss my
"Sitting act," which is Sava Šumanović posed Alice Preen, called Kiki we recognize
that in many Modigliani paintings. I was expecting, and then go to try hunting
specialties for lunch in a nearby Morović. However, it not meant to be next to the
imposing, freshly painted Orthodox Church, "intercept" I was called not refuse. Did I
tell you that the galleries around the province always so cold?

41
SID'S VISION: BETWEEN ŠUMANOVIĆ AND ILIJA
BOSILJ

Day is the same: Wednesday. Sid lives relaxed time a province that does not
seem annoyed. At the taxi stand a group of young people. It seemed to me to
recognize Milovan Filipović, actor from Novi Sad. I remember him from theater
performances
"Migrations," directed by Vida Ognjenovic, by Crnjanski prose. There this, likable
acting Simeon Piščević, captain in the regiment of Slavonia and Danube. He was Sid`s
famous residents, whose memoirs helped Crnjanski in writing his great epic. As I
approached the young men, to understand that this is not an actor Filipovic, though
a reminder of personality Pišćević was worth stopping.
In Museum Ilijanum, dedicated to the amazing artwork Ilija Bosilj, at first, I
feel cold, but soon blazing fire and phantasmagoria this miracle worker. Intoxicating
combination of children's drawings, naive perspective, calligraphy dream, surreal
visions simply shatters the unexpectedness of another Sid wonders. Cute curator,
with unusual enthusiasm, says: "From the first drawings, gouache, oil paintings on
various substrates: paper, cardboard, wood, furniture, bag, canvas, walls, hardboard,
cork, notebooks, book covers, his painting work, the late start, becomes a passion,
an obsession, a habit, a religious fervor. Ilija makes day and night, with lots of
energy. However, of advanced age, he builds a unique world, his Iliad, your planet,
your universe. “While she enthusiastically recites, as I see my Frenchwoman to
observe this lady, with a bit of skepticism in a smile.

42
 Ilija Bašičević Bosilj was born Sid in 1895 and died in this city in 1970.
Workers' origin, poorly educated, the man began to paint when he was 62 years old.
In addition, was immediately shocked its citizens with talent and freedom of
expression. Very quickly he impressed and others who have seen his work. He
showed moreover, maturity realization. However, in the ranks of experts and critics
appeared to doubt the authenticity and authorship of his art. That is why in 1965
formed in the Zagreb panel of eminent experts who were at that time engaged about
naive art. In addition, before them, Ilija Bosilj had to paint, in order to prove that he
is the real author of those works. As soon as he started painting, the audience was
clearly to before them is an authentic artist ... And that's the end of trips to Sid,
which I visited, Sava Šumanović, in addition, Ilija Bosilj, two schoolmates. One was a
great artist, and other visual phenomena and unusual artistic effects. In a city where
the Simeon Pišćević father was a military commander at the time of Austria-
Hungary.
In return, the first encounters village Kukuljevci, and highway. While walking
past Ruma, hear the lyrics: "/above me smells in clouds of gray / forest your Fruska/
... " whispers poet Milos Crnjanski. It was a one sunny autumn 2012th

43
SUBOTICA,
SYNAGOGUES AND OTHER INTERESTING
BORDERS AS DESTINY

This town in the north of the country, at the end or the beginning of Vojvodina,
Subotica, I remember, experience or discover in the memories of dozens of
encounters, visions, passing, stays. This unusual town in northern Bačka I remember
by interesting and talented people, and elegant buildings that have a long and
distinctive history. First in my mind flies pictures of Subotica Synagogue. This
impressive building, mild and conciliatory, simultaneously stout and luxurious, built
in 1902. The facility designed by an architect from Budapest Marcel Chamber with
Dezso Jakab. From this oasis of peace, which has taken hold in the middle of rich
vegetation, who settled in the middle of lush vegetation, continue tour. I am going to
visit famous citizens of Subotica. I want to talk to contemporaries, and to bow to
those who are part of reputable history of this city. Talking to me Bosko Krstic, Mary
Šimoković, Bella Durance to open totally the doors of this chaotic place snowed in
memory. Because, as far as wearing Subotica, in architecture, culture, civic life and
sediments of European panoramas, this is the city most likely filed a consequence of
the rule of pseudo-communist doctrine of ‘‘neurotic political instability in the border
town''. In a normal world, which has always been quite the opposite? The

44
boundaries however not exactly Bridges, but for reasonable the people they are
crossing and showcase.
Subotica, where they live Serbs, Hungarians, Croats, Bunjevci as many flavors
of previous nations (as Lika, Montenegrins, Bosnians ...) Is a city that is checked by ''
Czech'' model had to be a place complex ethnic, political, cultural, linguistic and
semantic distinction comes down to a common denominator of every day, which is
slightly closer to the neighbors than of God. So no matter how it may sound
heretical.
Subotica, which mentioned in documents from 7 May 1391st and surely that,
is a little older, and I remember this - a large, discreet, moderately cheerful and
always cultural. Unlike anything, I have encountered. Since my first stay at the
athletics track stadium'' Spartacus'' in which I as a young man chasing fame, through
the forests of mulberry, urban cafes and pastry shops, theaters, folk and children's,
Painter's meeting, trams (repealed 1974). I know more than professional or private
meetings with people whom this incredible monument to the architectonics „Žolnay
“colors, roofs and facades that are equally contemplative and visual attraction. All
that which gives meaning, subtext and context in real life, and turns it into a
metaphor, this city experienced with equal arousal and excitation. Therefore,
Bosco Krstic, essayist and novelist, with a lot of meticulousness and irony
considering about the history of the'' Blue vases from Palic Park "(made of ceramic
Žolnay) and'' its revolutionary destiny it’s the same when I read the essay by art
critic of The Bell Durance, about wonderful stained glass Sandor Nagy, in the Town
Hall of Subotica. I think about by saying verses Slavko Matkovic, who says: Just
Confuses Me / Light Which falls on the city / and gate with my number / ... I wonder
if / Whether I am in the towns / cities or are in me / Where am I Subotica. So when
we Šimoković Mary tells of future past: the grain of sand dropped rain / of the light
and heat began to sprout / something like a tower in the midst of the river with a
few coastal ...
I know that I will not, moving from Lifka mobile theater, to get out in the
storm, but directly into the Babylonian music that comes from the film festival on
Lake Palic. This city on our very north Backa, sometimes broken down by all sorts of
historical disasters, sometimes ambiguous, in turn, the entrance and the exit is in
symbiosis Art Nouveau, modern, and sometimes agrarian, because many reasons
Subotica has long followed the voice of the largest villages in Vojvodina, as it still
was never. In a city there is always such a writer Milovan Mikovich said'' enough
space for people of different backgrounds and different beliefs. In the cities, the
violence forced to give way to the power of words, speech ...''
On the way back from a walk through this Central European city - again
encounter the Synagogue. This time I notice something new harmonious
monumental building, with a dome over the central part, enriched with structural
innovations - the dome rests on an iron structure that carries eight iron columns.
Three entry portals lead to the salon, above which is a space for women, and four
staircases to the gallery. In temperate decoration visible the impact of Hungarian
folk art and the Far East. However, more than anything, this religious building

45
Embodying Subotica `spirit of reconciliation and tolerance. Subotica from which I
write, of my reality and dream, in his memory has the wisdom and winds. In
addition, beauty.

46
ROAD TO MOŠORIN

I'm going on the other side Titel hill. I had intended in Mošorin. The raids Isidora's
birthplace. Where the writer Isidora Sekulic, one of the most illustrious Serb, was
born. Hill and then looking at the Tisza and Danube away. In „ Alas'' restaurant, on
the shores of this part of the river Tisza, ask about the shortest path to Mošorin.
Advise me, however, roundabout way. That from Novi Sad road, they say, is safer
than over Vilovo. It should go to Sajkas. Of course, random counselors mention
fishing and not Isidora. Shorter road, one across Hill, which came to him through the
hill, not advice. This is an earthen path and it rained not long ago, and will me dust
swallow.
So, around the hill to the Mošorin, villages with burial at the top of the lookout.
There are Plato and Chapels. With a view on all four sides. Isidora is not just this
cemetery described in his famous '' Chronicle small-town cemetery“, but that at
Zemun. However it is impossible to this place of rest, to Titel Hill, which rises out of
the village, to which can be reached with the hundreds steep stairs carved into the
less surface, is not participated in the preparation of this sad but wise prose.
To present Mošorin can be reached by road from stone blocks. From Sajkas to travel
five or six miles. This places, the village behind hill, almost asleep, as in memories to
Vojvodina old. Except as new, weekend `s settlements near the Tisa River. On this
side of Breg say how '' Titel hill powerful rises from Šajkaš's marshes along the
Tisza, near its confluence with Danube''. A mile from Surduk (loess profile at the
bottom) „ Dukatar'', as it is called, and a weekend resort, when out of the Mošorin, is
an archeological site from

47
Bronze and Iron Ages, known as Feudvar. At this location, the plateau was
inaccessible and verticals nicks, because the nut is the main course of the river
Tisza, in the historical - the geological period directly hitting the base and eroded
hillside. It should be noted that the inhabitants Feudvar'''' changed their surplus
food for copper, whose mines are located in the Carpathians where they were, to
rafts, bringing rock. Interestingly, the residents Feudvar had contacts with the
Mycenaean cities and their culture. It was made completely decorative items and
even toys for children, including rattles! Here in Mosorin, children now almost
nonexistent. Only the river, hill, winds and strange silence. And grass which poise on
the slopes. Here, in the largest loess plateau in Europe.
Tisza, a typical lowland river, at Mošorin is average width of about 200
meters. Coast in this area, with Mošorin's side is rocky, and with Banat side is
muddy, while the depth is greater than 5 meters. This ground, besides hunting carp,
perch and pike, known for a rich catch of white fish, especially bream. However the
flood of which the village this year protecting embankment almost eight feet tall.
Mošorinci are, if, always be able to seek salvation on the Hill. Who knows what
Noah's Ark out there waiting for them. Or maybe Vojvodina tribune of the last
century, also a native of this place, Svetozar Miletic, a man of his word and gesture.
With some advice, speech or consolation.
After leaving the Mošorin, in one place the opens a real gorge, which plunges
deep, in seemingly softly hill. It is likely to the notch can get to the other side, to the
front of Vilovo. It would be possible to avoid uncomfortable back through the stone
paved road to Sajkas. I look first to see a ''Cliff'', followed by gray-yellow corridor
through layers of sand. I thought, however, this go way, but look at the sky hailed
the unusual redness. And residents of Mošorin talked to hear the elves sometimes
occur. And what I'm in the middle of the night at Vilovo ... Village which was named
after the fairies and elves?

48
DANUBE PARK IN NOVI SAD

In the popular definitions, the more literary than expert, says that the real
urban parks which are located in the nucleus of a large settlement. Because other
parks are marginal or peripheral. By this logic, The Danube Park in Novi Sad is true
and representative space. He has green eyes in whose blue-green apple of the eye
reflects the comfortable, civilized and tolerant lowland city. City of Novi Sad began
in 1895 to regulate the park. Since the park relies on the Danube, and it can reached
Danube Street, named Danube Park. This annex of nature, with a small lake in the
center of its volume, has a positive impact on city life. At the same time, the Danube
Park is much more than just the sum of trees, flowers and light in which sounds
added nearby river, Fruška hills and not too harsh city life.
At this point in the 19 century there was at Liman, a branch of the Danube,
covered with reeds and willows, litter mosquitoes and frogs. The field was much
lower than the surrounding area, from where it ended Danube Street. The land here
used for the construction of embankments along the Danube. When he resolved to
make a park, first filled up the earth. Only Svamp remained on the lowest place,
which was 76 meters above sea level, which later paved with bricks, and the lake
created, with small islands called “Erzsébet ". On it is a weeping willow planted in
memory of the Austrian Empress who was killed 1898. Park began the organized
manner to regulate the first years of the 20th century, when a place in the inn, "The

49
Queen of England" built court palace (today the Museum of Vojvodina). It was then
that the area in front of the palace planted with grass and trees, and through the
lawn made earth tracks. The park is positioned sculpture "Nymph" in the form of a
fountain by Djordje Jovanovic, the famous Novi Sad sculptor. The covered podium -
hayloft - Sundays held promos. After the Second World War, in that place, during
state holidays, a military band played. The next stage of editing The Danube Park
came during the twenties and thirties of the twentieth century.
Danube Park is a pride citizen of Novi Sad. A kind of showcase of female
beauty, elegance, fashion. When in the evening, while the city, which is everywhere,
in summer days, begins to live, and to the beaches of the Strand on the Danube
returned to the streets and squares , Mrs. Iva Mia Gucci walk path along the lake,
even swan welcomes her. A curious passers-by and not speak!
This park is the place where in the city sunset seen wise men. Artists, writers, wise
people more generally. Two of them have their permanent place indivertible: poets
Branko Radicevic, Djura Jaksic and Miroslav Antic. They are there forever - within
their monuments!
I was walking through the park twenty years. At all times of the day. At night,
however, does not. I was sitting on the benches. Simply, I sat completely relaxed. I
have seen sometimes a reputable writer Aleksandar Tisma that walks like just write
it in his novel "The use of man." I rested from work by listening to the voices of
children. Watching tennis and imagine my fellow citizens, writer Todor Manojlovic,
how to merge with the winter Danube Park. While awake, ironic, passionate eyes
and polyphonic, Drasko Redjep, essayist and hidden poet who writes about the
future of the past, all records, compares and colored with nostalgia.

50
BELGRADE FORTRESS IN WALK PRINCE MIHAILO WAY
STREET

In Belgrade I was not almost twenty years. In April 2012 year, I am back in it.
Kalemegdan fortress still keeps the city from a loss of identity. Fortress, which is
deep in time, history, Europe and the world. To remember what many cities of the
world must learn by heart. In Belgrade, I first came from the Banat region, the train
that drew a steam-powered locomotive. He led me to the Danube - station, so my
entry into the city was the famous Balkan street.
I crossed the Danube, over the bridge, near Pancevo. The same river Danube that is
the famous La Corbusier, architect, in 1911 was also called Charles Janeiro, arrived
from Vienna. He spoke then, full of youthful self-confidence, but brilliant
exclusionist, that Belgrade is libelous, worse city obscene, dirty, distracted, but
whose geographical location was to admirable
While sitting in the restaurant Kalemegdan terrace, of course, on top of the
powerful and conquered, overthrown, changed but not defeated fortress looking at
the Military Museum and Zoo, which is nestled in the historic center, thinking about
what everyone has already said La Corbusier. He says that the city rude and I would
say that the - direct and unconventional. He says him was distracted while I think it
is just sandwiched between East and West. It is, at the same time, living by the spirit
of the ancient Orient, he should go to Skadarlija or Savamala, with the occasional
flash of the Austro-Hungarian manner, which can experienced in the hotel

51
"Moscow" but no breakthrough American lifestyle in New Belgrade, for example, I
could not ignore. The remarks of the famous architect of the purity of Belgrade
unfortunately cannot elegantly reject, although the city is really trying to be cleaner.
Whomever, Belgrade comes out to the confluence of two mighty rivers, the Danube
and the Sava, which makes the city special
About me is Belgrade fortress. An anchor keeps the city to the ground resisting
the invaders and backwardness, bad taste or mental pollution. As I look at these
powerful walls, loopholes, towers, resting, moving bridges, cannons, I keep myself in
a discussion with Corbusier - probably in a hurry, it is not a good look at the
Kalemegdan fortress from who is creating this city. It was built at beginning 1
century as a palisade with earthen ramparts, to be developed over the centuries in
the Roman custom, the Byzantine castle, fortified medieval capital of the Serbian
despot and finally Austrian / Ottoman artillery fortification It was built beginning at
1 century as a palisade with earthen ramparts,
Then it developed over the centuries in the Roman custom, then as the
Byzantine castle, later becoming fortified medieval capital of the Serbian despot, and
finally Austrian / Ottoman artillery fortification. Manager of the restaurant
"Kalemegdan terrace" lead me into the closed part of the building. There is an
interior designed in conjunction antiquity, ancient Rome and the French rococo say.
The mild flavor of today's postmodernism felt in this space, which is adapted for
catering purposes, in the walls of Belgrade fortress. I will first go to the zoo and then
to the Military Museum.
In the zoo, which is located at the base of the fort, there is a good selection of
animals. I learned that here 211 animal species and about 2 000 individuals. Of
these 52 species are birds, 47 mammals and 12 reptiles. The Garden has many
endangered species. It looks neat, clean enough, but the whole time I was thinking
about how everything is cramped. How must it be for animal? To say the name of
this institution is the Garden of Good Hope.
Visiting the fortress Kalemegdan I continued at the Military Museum. The Military
Museum is located on the first bastion of the southeast front Belgrade Fortress in a
building erected in 1924. There was a building for the Military Geographical
Institute, which is in 1956 was ceded to the museum. Surround by city walls and
biggest park in Belgrade Kalemegdan is one of the symbols of Belgrade fortress.
Decree of Prince Milan Obrenovic 10 August in 1878, the year immediately after
Serbia to Congress of Berlin won its independence.
I am going to some logical order, from a variety of guns from the middle Ages to
the late twentieth century, to Weapons of World War II including the Russian T-34,
torpedo launchers, patrol boat, marine artillery.
Down, under the walls you can see the Danube and the Banat, which was once part
of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. On the one hand, there is a large park with walking
paths, benches and monuments. A little further, looming is current Belgrade, which
through “Knez Mihailova street " runs off in New Belgrade. In addition, somewhere
the river Sava, who waits to flow into the Danube. I am going back to the restaurant
at the Kalemegdan terrace. In fact, getting off a few steps below, in air conditioned
and very fancy room, because the wind blew outside. April in Belgrade, as sing
chanson Zdravko Colic, is very rapturously, but fickle. While taking lunch, over

52
Belgrade dropped and timed rain. Moreover, for lunch I had a "Karađorđe steak,"
which consists of a stack of pork, bacon and yellow cheese. Of course, before I ate,
drank plum brandy, and after lunch a glass of cold - white wine spritzer, a mixture of
white wine and sparkling water. Fans of the beverage believe that the "white wine
spritzer" best just pretending to be a famous that the smederevka, so I listened.
In the evening I headed to the “Prince Mihailo Street," the famous Belgrade
meeting places, tourists and customers from the nearby exclusive stores. Tread the
marble slabs of the representative town promenade with a sense of harmony. This
faces Belgrade would like to show some new La Corbusier. As the day close to the
night, there is changing physiognomy and years passers-by. Children give way to
middle-aged, and in the late hours through “Knez Mihailova Street" will rush young
go to their night destinations. However all the time, from morning to midnight in
this street you can see a pretty face urban Belgrade. In addition, somewhere, from
the middle of the street, you can see the lights at the Belgrade Fortress. What keeps
your city?

53
SREMSKI KARLOVCI, AN OUTDOOR MUSEUM

In Sremski Karlovci, I am for the umpteenth time. Moreover, every time me

this town something surprising. Some have it, because of tolerance and willingness
to agree with everyone, metaphorically called - Kiss the East and the West. In this,
phrase many of geopolitics and even more cultural and confessional tameness of the
local people. I sit in the front garden of the café, which in turn behind the famous
Sremski Karlovci fountain "Four Lions." It built of red marble in 1799, when with the
Ceratsko hill spring water brought to the city. In addition, this fountain has a "twin,"
each with a name and a cartridge, which murmur in all parts of the city. This small
town is recognizable by church towers and palaces, famous for its excellent wine,
inseparable from the name Branko Radicevic, famous English Romantic poet. This
has long been a city and spiritual center of the Serbs.
Now is the morning, schoolchildren in schools, and adults at work in the
vineyards and in the houses. I hear only silence, because there is no traffic through
the center and the whole place is really in the center. I understand the true meaning
of peace and tranquility. In addition, I am starting to think about spirituality and
tradition. First, there is a grammar school, founded in 1791. The present
appearance, the new Byzantine style, this school obtained in 1891. My eyes stopped
on an unusual yellow-red facade that evokes the medieval church architecture, and

54
in the beauty of God - corridors paved with marble, colorful stained glass on the
door. Attract by the harmonious singing in Latin, peering through the open heavy
doors of the famous auditorium - pupils choir practiced under the ornate arches
masterfully painted ceiling among the oil paintings of the old masters. Even the
furnace is stylish, bright red, made in the Austro-Hungarian style. I am come by the
school library, the oldest in Vojvodina. There, in glazed shelves, including 18,000
books is a facsimile edition "Miroslav Gospel" (Miroslav Gospel). There is also the
first publication of the work of linguists Dositej Obradovic and Vuk Karadzic, poet
Branko Radicevic, Karlovac students, and Zmaj Jovan Jovanovic. Branko Radicevic
was the most famous Serbian romantic poet, but he died before the age of 30
birthdays. He buried in the woods in Strazilovo, on the hill that loves and described
in the poems.
Then they go to the Cathedral - in the current edition completed in 1762,
with two big towers and small among them, famous for the beauty of the iconostasis
that was painted by Teodor Craciun and Jacob Orphelin. Decorate with the 11 oil
paintings of Paja Jovanović. The Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity is a little further,
once had three altars, now two, and a nobly decorated organ. In the center is
another Orthodox church, the Church of St. Nicholas, which is in 1784. Njegoš
produced in Bishop. In the courtyard, soon after the construction of the church,
planted a plane tree, now a giant, which overshadows the crown and roots raises the
roof of the temple foundation.
Nearby, in Sremski Karlovci all close, because it is a place of about 10,000
inhabitants, the Patriarch's Palace, with stone lions in front of a wide entrance.
The famous art historian Milan Kašanin believes that this is one of the most
beautiful palaces in Vojvodina. The building was built in 1894 in combination of
Baroque and pseudo-Renaissance style, designed by the famous architect Vladimir
Nikolic. The iconostasis in the chapel of the Patriarchal Palace is the work of painter
Uros Predic. In Treasury, and open to visitors kept the liturgical items including the
Preston crosses of wood, decorated with gold and jewels, the real masterpieces.
Today, it is the Palace of Bishop of the Diocese of Srem area.
I am taking a little break from the walk around the city, which acts as a large
open-air museum. I need a little refresher and body. Lunch at the restaurant will
"Danube," of course, on the coast this river. A terrace where diners are all white, and
over the whole ceiling was sprawled in fishing nets, while the entire building on
piles, under the Danube flows. Besides fish soups I have tried sausage fish and
stuffed bream. I am drinking a great wine, but I just heard an amazing story about
him: Wines that are celebrated Karlovci the dessert Ausbruh and Bermet dry
aperitif, which are added wormwood, anise, cinnamon ... For them, does not leave
behind Riesling, in Vienna there remains a trademark rose called "Karlovci tovajn."
The lineage of the Roman period in this region brought Marcus Aurelius Probus.
From wine for centuries lived well. It was the wine list of ocean liners, including the
"Titanic." They told me that the famous physicist Nikola Tesla appreciated bermet
particularly sweet and aromatic wine, thinking that encourages intellectual abilities.

55
HILL'S TOWER PROTECTS CITY VRSAC

Vršac is a city in Serbia, in the province of Vojvodina, in the region of Banat, in that I
am often going. City is located on the slopes of Vrsac Mountains, which are part of a
larger mountain system whose total surface is 170 square kilometers, of Which 122
in Serbia and Romania in the 48 square kilometers. This classy town is through the
ages always had a special feature that is also represented valuable barometer of life
in it. In my early departures, the city has marked a significant figure of the
playwright Jovan Sterija Popovic whom time does not diminish the relevance and
significance. The city was then called, and Sterija town.
We arrive then at the next meeting epoch, that marks the incredible rise of
pharmaceutical industries, "Hemofarm". These drugs factory he simply changed the
face of the city and turned Vrsac into a modern town. As part of the investment in
the city, this giant has provided funds to raise universal hall "Millennium" Today
that represents the Vrsac region. Millennium Center is one of the most beautiful
buildings including sports and business and entertainment centers in Serbia. Build
in 2001 year.
While standing in a large sport hall, known especially for basketball matches, leafing
through a brochure on the multiplexes of object: Millennium Center can to
commend successful organizations, numerous concerts both in the sports arena as

56
well as in Congress and the music hall. Not only concerts, theater productions, but
also for children and adults, cinema screenings, various conventions and
conferences gathered numerous theater, film and other widest variety of audiences
with our and foreign space. In the travel agency, which is part of the Millennium, I
recall to ancient historian Felix Milekera, and his '' Banater Buherei ," those
described jewels of the old Banat, through my consciousness spring Bishop's Palace,
Magistrate, Mesic Monastery, wine cellars in Grdelica, and Vasko Popa, a poet who
has translated the ancient to the modern sensibility. He gave one poem on wine,
which in Vrsac is much more than a beverage. It is, with grapes, serene view through
the front of Vrsac Hill: "In other grapes / street fall asleep at noon, / and the last
untamed bagpipes / Bigger than the Town Hall."
Then I go to Vrsac Hill (Vrsac hill), to see how the city looks when viewed
from above. And Hall "Millennium" whose shell the blue haze that this city, when the
wind stops, takes under his wing. The city looks like as it is attached to the cam
(Hill) and the Tower. Connected is to them historically, geographically and mentally.
It came to him somehow as if to say that settlement comes on the river.
Alternatively, it is in the sea. This tower is much more than a historic building on the
hill. It is a mark of the time. This tower is part of the mental image. It is the
Headquarters of memory. As it is a natural lightning rod for this part of the plains.
This tower resembles to powerful Transmitter and Receiver.
The fortress built at an altitude of 400 meters on the plateau measuring 40
times 17 meters. This makes it all seem to act modestly, but the Hill and his tower,
as the sudden stress of endless plains, to announce an unusual geographic drama. It
assumed that the whole fortress, built during Đurađ Smederevac (1427-1456) after
the fall of Smederevo and all despots 1439th. It built in order to protect their land in
Vojvodina. On the hill (Breg), slim Tower down in the valley - hall "Millennium," in
the souls of people Vrsac - wise playwright Sterija. Around vineyards spread, then
endless plains!

57
TITEL HILL

HILL AS “INCIDENT” IN PLAIN

Again is not Saturday. Because, this day when I travel via the Perlez this title, is not
the Sunday. A Wednesday not market day. So I will see the famous roadside market
leading to Titel` Hill and homonymous city that exists between the hills of sand and
the mouth of the Bega the Tisza. It is a city on the edge of the plains, with a view to
Frushka Gora and has a common mental picture of mountain habitats. After such
experiences, historical and civilization, logo Sajke goes straight into the crest of the
city. From Tisza, watch old military in destroying the church, which is on top of the
hill guards besides all kinds of transmitters. Hill of less deposited. From Banat
vegetation, willows and poplars farewell descends to Backa. With picture of Danube
in experience. Again, Tisza embraced. It would be that he, title's hill, as tame and
toothless lion, here among rivers lies down. It seems that he, Titel's Hill, as a tamed
and toothless lion,
Here between the rivers lie down. As if it were, the gods dropped while the Fruska
Gora up to Vrsac hill transferred material for serious mountain. However, the benign
“Geology incident'' in the plane is more than the stereotypical tourist destination.
Breg-Hill, a town and rivers flowing almost about him, could be a miracle future
time. I read on the internet, so the villagers Perlez, jokingly saying that Titel hill is, in
fact, part of the Great Wall of China, who is in fear; they built Titel locals to prevent
the invasion of Banat to Backa. In addition, I am still in the Banat, from Perlez
respectively, over the bridge to the Tisza, which to me its unusual and

58
hypertrophied likeness reminded of the giant snail, I am going to Titel in which is
still in the 9th Ages seat of the Bulgarian duke Salan. However, the information that
is the Roman archaeological sites Titel hill under the protection of the state, quite
clear from the presence of the one time unavoidable Romans. Medieval town Titel
destroyed only the Turkish conquest. The city seven times crossed from Ottoman
into Austrian hands. During the migration of Serbs from Arsenije Carnojevic the
Serbs in Bosnia, Aromanians and Macedonians, who were with the local population
kept the Austrian border, inhabit the city.
Rivers that meet here for centuries set in Titel physiognomy. First boat dock,
That calls Sajka, located just on the bank of the Tisza River, here in Titel. The local
people believe that the Serbian folk hat - Šajkačan originated from here, because
local Serb soldiers-sajkasi, at the time of Maria Theresa wore that hats shaped like
an upturned boat Sajka. Since many fighters-sajkas, in the First Serbian Uprising,
joined by the supreme leader Karađorđe, it assumed that the Serbs have repudiated
Turkish fez and replace them with caps. This hat they called "Šajkača" by ships
which Serbs from Vojvodina through the Tisza and Bega, once defended the Austro-
Hungarian Empire.
Is all this really true, or all of today there is no consensus Serbs in Vojvodina
with the Serbs from Serbia, is not critical. Differences between Serbs are eternal. In
addition, it does not here by accident, was born in Titel widely known Mileva Maric-
Einstein (1875-1948), co-author of the theory of relativity. I do not know why
Mileva gave up on the theory of co-authorship, but now with more confidence
proves to be involved in the formation of this theory, and gave her a big
contribution. Micro-climate, which Hil-Breg, almost 131 meters high, and the river
Tisza with Bega create, obviously fertile ground for the development of ingenuity
and creative energy. Attest certainly Isidora Sekulic, Stojan Trumic, Svetozar Miletic
and mentioned Milena Maric alias Einstein, who the district Titel saw the sky.
In addition, Titel's Breg, which with good intentions I named '' Incident'' in
the care plan, is much more than that. An ordinary case testifies the recent
expedition of German scientists, who found that for examining the composition of
the forest, and what the climate changes that have happened in the past and have
been recorded in the sediments of sand, Titel hill is the most favorable in Europe,
because it has the thickest layer of the sediment. That is why I am going'' deeper''
into Breg-Hill.

59
TRIP IN SOPOT. MONASTERY TRESIJE

If I did once with a colleague from Belgrade TV came at a film festival in Sopot,
which is the Government's decision to establish official name - the Freedom of film
festivals, not I saw this little town under Kosmaj, and more importantly is that
would not be able to admire the Monastery Tresije.
Here in the lobby Šumadija historical region, which continues behind Kosmaj, one
could hear the legend of the medieval Serbian Despot Stefan Lazarevic (1377-1427).
Tradition says that during hunting on the hill Kosmaj, Despot Stefan difficult injured
leg. Wounded Despot was first to scream in pain near the village Ropočevo. A little
furthers on, near the monastery Tresije, first sock. Worried entourage tried to find
lodging, but to his dismay found that the village there is no house that could
accommodate wounded despot. The casualty was to Koraćica successful alone to
walk. Sprawled in the only village Pružatovac brought him to Crkvina where he died.
All listed sites are located in a row from the top to the bottom Kosmaj.
After less than an hour's drive from center Belgrade, two days after a visit to the
Film Festival or watched the movie "Pretty Village, Pretty Flame", I am back in
Sopot. Pleasant, with many greenery, clean, built on undulating terrain place of
about 20,000 inhabitants. This region is also proud of its medieval past and the
tradition of the liberation movement in World War II. Then there is acted famous
Kosmajski partisans squad.
From the center of town now, refer to the monastery. Across the sunlit hill,
through intensive Park, arrive in an instant in this sacred complex. I immediately
submerse that has a beginning before almost 800 years. The building is made of

60
Stone and Tile. I hear someone speaking softly, to establish monasteries Tresije here
on Kosmaj in Sopot, attributed to Despot Stefan Lazarevic. However, it is likely that
the monastery founded in the late 13th century or early 14th century, in the time of
King Dragutin. It rebuilt in the reign of Despot Stefan, early 15th century. In Turkish
sources, monastery mentioned 1560th year, as the monastery of the Holy
Archangels, called Tres, who had 12 monks. Conquer and destroyed the late 17th
century by the Turks. Monks from the monastery treasures are moving to the Srem
region and found refuge in monasteries Fruška. The monastery treasures passed in
Hopovo 1641st. In addition, The Psalter from Tresije monastery, which was later,
transferred to Hilandar, where it is still located. Destroy monastery renewed 1709th
the Rakovački monks led by the abbot Vissarion. About the restoration testifies
inscription carved in stone to the left of the entrance door of the temple today.
However, the monastery soon abandoned and remained in the ruins. Thus, there
were until the 1936. Then the restoration began, that ended with the 1950th year.
Then the restoration began, that ended with the 1950th year. Church of the
Monastery of Tresije belongs in the buildings, which mostly rely on the tradition of
the Raska School.
This to the monastery, who is named after the eloquent Tresije, which flows nearby,
only after decades of communist and partisan obsession, we accept more and more
believers. However, those who come to this place today, seeking the salvation of
many evils and diseases of modern life. There are those who take refuge here from
the alienation of living in a big city, as is the case with Belgrade.

61
CROATIA
ZORAN SLAVIC

62
Island of Vis, Croatia
RETURN TO ISLAND VIS

On the island of Vis, Dalmatian, far in the Adriatic, I was only once, and seeing things
that we are constantly visiting him. It was the same that day when I arrived in Split
with the morning train. Train is coming over Perkovic. I got very stunned by the
smoke from steam locomotives. I remember walking with my father that does not
yet awakened Split harbor. Everything seemed like it was on the edge of my own
panic. In addition, with nausea that encourages sewage smells of the big city. Then,
place in my mind contains memories of the long waiting time at the port, which
wakes up and heats up. Finally, the ship "Dinara" starts. I remember the waves of
the open sea. Cruising seems like it will last forever. Hvar. Finally, it appears the
island of Vis. Island suddenly emerges out of the blue water, which to me as boy
from the plains fears.
This island is possessed in my mind thousands of questions. Which, of my
relatives, there is no one to answer them? But they are long before they died. Except
that, they are forever in me. Moreover, I forgot to shade the alphabet with which to
speak. My ancestors and me! For a long time I have laid the foundation of my
nostalgia. That is why I came to Birth Island my father. Far out at sea, half way to
Italy. When I saw from a distance the island of Vis, make me look like a paradise.
However, I realize that this is not the right picture, but my projection of nostalgia

63
and emotion. The scene is really too cute, small typical Dalmatian town, with
vegetation and picturesque houses. Pleasant tourist resorted in the deep sea!
However, paradise is not only comfortable and beautiful. It does not matter to me,
looks amazing!
While the steamer approached the dock, with me intercepts coast scene that I
remember, and I have previously viewed: as the picture that hangs in our living
room moved to the reality of the island to which I have arrived! "People's House" -
says the building is a barrier. Stand front of me, on the coast. Only slightly modified,
painted, and with another company. Everything else is like on oil painting painted
by my father Sime. It is oil on canvas from
1960. This displays the time some stopped in
the old days, before the Second World War.
In addition, somewhere there is my father.
Waiting at me to come to his native island,
which is now a tourist destination for those
who love fishing, diving and relaxing in the
silence. I think so, all the memories, and the next
moment, I became aware of the reality, I
am on the island of Vis, I came to remind his
father's birthplace.
He painted this landscape by Vis a few
summer afternoons. He painted this picture
while he was a railway clerk in Zrenjanin. He
painted this canvas, remembering his native
island, which exists in the universe of his
childhood. Now, as if there was my father.
Waiting for me to come to his native island, which is now a tourist destination for
those who love fishing, diving and relaxing in the silence. I think so, all the
memories, and the next moment, I became aware of the reality, I am on the island of
Vis, I came to remind his father's birthplace.
He painted this landscape Vis a few summer afternoons. While he was a railway
clerk in Zrenjanin, remembering his native island, which still exists in the universe
of his childhood, which is the projection of that day and intercepted me. On the
waterfront of course, not even waiting for Mirko uncle, or his daughter, the twins,
who are unlikely to look like the former politician Vladimir Bakarić. Who knows
where they currently live and who is still alive from them. I remember then last
fishing with them in a day, a gray and unpleasant, bevanda, and lunch of fish stored
in "boiled" - it's almost all I remember from my long-ago visit to Vis. I will never
forget this great silence that has hung over the island, just at dusk.
The extension of the vision, which combines history and the present-day island of
Vis, there are still stone house on the corner by the boyhood I have just passed, not
entering through the gate memories. The dusk estranged from his father who ever
came 1923rd First to Split and then to Belgrade. Never to return to that poor tear on
an island in the Adriatic, which he spent with the famous writer Ranko Marinkovic?
Sitting with him in the same class. The town of Vis. On the island of Vis. What is
today, because of the ferries and fast boats, much closer to the curious.

64
RETURN IN CRIKVENICA.
VISIT AQUARIUM AND RESTAURANT TRABAKUL

I am back, actually stopped by, after many years in Crikvenica. This small town was
once among the most famous resorts on the Adriatic coast, especially in the Kvarner
Riviera. I was a long time ago, with her parents and brother lived here and went to
school. Moreover, behold, I come after a big break in the place of my boyhood
memories. In Crikvenica, which for decades, near Opatija, constitute a
representative of the Croatian tourism?
Entering the town by car from Senj, who has an impressive warrior village past,
from the time of Turkish conquest. I passed the New Vinodolski and the Selce. In
addition, the road leads me directly through the street where I once lived. In The
house, this was across the street from the stadium. The street names are different
and everything is different. The city spread out, built new hotels, resorts, and travel
facilities. The same is the sea and Krk Island, opposite the town.
I pass through the port, in which, at one time, ships arriving from Rijeka but my little
merchant boats filled with all manner of goods from Krk, vegetables, fish, firewood,
cheese and wine. As I walk the long sandy beach to remember that, these boats
called "Trabakul” as it is called dance and one of the city's restaurants. I am going to
have lunch there but first I am going to visit the Aquarium, which of course did not
call there when I was a resident of Crikvenica.

65
I am going to Vinodolska Street, there is, in the city center, located "Aquarium
Crikvenica." There is an unusual concept that this setting marine life. Various
underwater flora and fauna divided into 24 pools, so that their shapes resemble the
actual environment, they come from these specimens. They say that the aquarium
contains over 100 species living in the Adriatic Sea but there are also a considerable
number of "guests" of the South Seas. The inscriptions show us that particularly
interesting: moray, shark, catfish, and lobster. While buying some souvenirs, I am
thinking that this Aquarium not as powerful as the one in Monaco, but was perhaps
more interesting in their miniatures and unpretentious view of the Adriatic Sea life.
To the meal, which will be lunch and dinner, leaving the hotel complex? I still
remember there used to be a famous Esplanade Hotel. In addition, as I see, the old
building has completely renovated. However, the extension built completely modern
facility, by any standard, modern hotel management, to satisfy the tastes of today's
guests. We pass by the representative hotel “Therapia “, one of thirty in Crikvenica
and immediate surroundings.
While the neighboring island of Krk slowly overtakes redness of the setting sun,
leaving on the Riva (the coast). My goal is “Restaurant Trabakul”. We sit in the
garden, covered with a blue cloth curtain, next to an old olive tree, which is still the
middle of the coffee-growing territory. An environment which is very clean and
comfortable, complimented fishing coastal tavern gives this meal glamour back to
the time when the coastal sailing "karakuls" boats whose engines were working at
the University, and in the deep bowels are accommodated whatever the
environment is able to deliver the city's population. This restaurant is adapted to
the ambience of a classic seaside tavern. However, one can see that the interior
enriched with stylized skillful hand of the designer. Since we are very hungry that
day, we were good customers of the tavern. For an appetizer we ate ham, cheese and
olives, as a prelude to the main course we tried the octopus salad and the excellent
seafood risotto. Grill Tuna with the addition of spinach Dalmatian style, finished this
a day in Crikvenica. The taste of olive oil, which seemed, to press this summer, gave
the dish a distinctive flavor. Of course, there was the Chardonnay winery "Boskinac"
from the island of Pag, as a goodbye to the road to Rijeka.

66
PULA, THE TOWN WITH THE PICTURE ARENA IN THE
MEMORY

At the very tip of the peninsula Istria, region of Croatia, which penetrates
deeply into the Adriatic Sea, a long time ago there city Pula.
Arena is built on almost the highest point of this important city at the tip of the
peninsula Istria. Thus created the mighty Roman Colosseum. During many visits to
this place, I was able to look into many of his scenes and moods. I admit that parts of
my literary experience related to Serbian writer Dragan Velikić with his novel "Via
Pula". However, overall, well I was in the Arena in a mighty, stone amphitheater,
which seems to float above the Pula. As a large cap, that protects the city from the
time of the disaster. This is the earliest settlement, while the true history of the city
began with the Romans, and it can be said that the town continuously inhabited over
2,000 years. Throughout history, the city has changed several rulers an experienced
many difficulties. I am in that ancient building came as a spectator Film Festival. The
one that was in the former Yugoslavia gathered tens of thousands of visitors. It was
a huge outdoor cinema! It was unusual, and exciting to watch films in ambient
petrified history.
The Arena is the only remaining Roman amphitheater to have four side
towers and with all three Roman architectural orders entirely preserved. It
constructed in 27 BC - 68 AD, and represent one of among the six largest surviving

67
Roman`s arenas in the World. A rare example among the 200 Roman surviving
amphitheaters, it is also the best-preserved ancient monument in Croatia. The
Romans also in a city built, water supply and sewerage system. They found the city
wall with ten gates, some of which are still preserved: Triumphal Arch, Gate of
Hercules, which engraved with the names of the founders, and the Twin Gates.
During the reign of the Emperor Septimius Severus name of the town changed to
Res Publica Polensis.
Pula is a city on a hill. The streets are under the rise. Always blows a light wind
micro-air changes as we climb from the sea to the Arena. I had the opportunity to go
with beach while there was still sunlight, and to get to the old town and the arena,
before it rains. The city is, as I said, as a cape protruding into the Adriatic Sea, and
therefore exposed to the weather changes, as well as to the man on the boat, which
cruises the sea. The experience is full temptation and unrepeatable exciting.
I went back to the arena, which is only partially breathing the same air with Pula,
which is now back in arduous industrial and tourist map of Croatia. Within the walls
of this colossus lasts for an else count time. It is Pula amphitheater, Pula Arena, or
structure where gladiator fights held. It built in the 1st century, during the period of
the rule of Emperor Vespasian, at the same time, as the Coliseum in Roma It is
elliptical, with the long axis 130 meters in length and the shorter axis of 100 meters.
In the center is a flat region - the fighting ground, while spectators sat on the stone
steps or stood in the galleries. It constructed of local limestone. I thought that the
Paula Amphitheater could hold up to 20,000 spectators. So that being then, today's
time and people are looking for new and different excitement. There are many
reasons that a man return to the city at the head of Istria.

68
DUBROVNIK
FROM THE HARBOR CITY ON THE DUCAL PALACE,
STRADUN, AND LOKRUM

Dubrovnik is today city in Croatia and once on a time was a state in itself. It was
a Dubrovnik Republic, with the army, navy and merchant ships, money and highly
developed culture. The old, the Latin name of the city is Ragusa. The current name of
the city has formed the Slavs who lived at the end of a thick oak forest - Dubrava.
From this toponym was created and its current name - Dubrovnik. In this beautiful
coastal city, I years came from the Herzegovina region - with rocky hills, through
myriad serpentine, went down to the sea. Moreover, in the sea, stood stone
configuration, like a giant vessel moored to the mainland. When you scroll down,
they saw the walls that for centuries protected the life within the area. Red roofs of
these walls signify the vitality of life activities of the city. You see the old Dubrovnik
harbor from which it starts. By its power, military, commercial and diplomatic
developed and Dubrovnik Republic, which was the most important city-republics
and commercial center of the eastern Adriatic. Developed around the Byzantine
Dubrovnik in the early Middle Ages and existed until in 1806.
Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidencing that the lands
here were first colonized by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by
the security offered by the island Which lay where the southern, half of the Old

69
Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ, standing guard.
Shipbuilding was an important industry their time, and Dubrovnik "Karaka",
beautiful galley, known for exceptional quality because it was made from durable
cedar of Lebanon. In the immediate vicinity of the harbor, there is the Ducal Palace,
Which was for many centuries the seat of the management of this city-state.
Dubrovnik is courageous but wisely resisted the Turkish Empire but the
Serenissima Republic and Venice, as this country officially called. The palace is
located near the port Sponza Divona or the Gothic-Renaissance palace in Dubrovnik.
This building built in 1516. Crafts persons with the help of experts from Korcula
built Dubrovnik, in 1516th to 1520 year.
For the duration Dubrovnik Republic, had a variety of functions. There are city's
customs, treasury, bank, mint, schools and treasury. The palace originally intended
for the customs office where the goods arrived brought in by traders from all over
the world. On the square in front of the Sponza held the opening ceremony of the
Dubrovnik Summer Festival. From the terrace above the canopy, Sponza actors
dressed in costumes and Prince Dubrovnik aristocrats evoke the past and cultural
events freedom of the Dubrovnik Republic. I had good luck that repeatedly watches
the show on this famous festival. We drank one glass of “Prosecco," a sweet dessert
wine, in the cafeteria floor of the Palace, and then continue walking. I am going to
Main Street. Stradun or place is the main street in the old town, but also in
Dubrovnik in general. Stradun extends in an east - west, and is located between two-
gate city (the Pile Gate and the Gate of Ploce).
At the beginning and at the end of the main street there are two fountains (Large
and Small Onofrio's Fountain) and the two towers (City steeple and bell tower of the
Franciscan church and monastery). Stradun is paved with stone blocks, polished to
shine wooden flooring. It is a place where the all those who mean something in this
town, and during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival here you can see the most
important names in music, theater or visual arts. Since it is almost noon, Stradun is
full of people who buy something, sitting in restaurants or just sightseeing.
After lunch in Restaurant Dubrovnik, located within the ancient walls, the most
felt good black risotto and salted fish descend back to the Old Port, because we
expect a trip to the island of Lokrum. About 600 meters from the city, the sea, and
this island was originally a place for the Dominican monastery and on the attractive
resort inhabitants Dubrovnik and many tourists. Part of the island is for nudism. I
enjoyed this one is away from the summer hustle and bustle of the city, while a view
of the city of Dubrovnik, the sea level was another delight. I had the impression that
the city, above which guards the wall, also rocking on the sea! I learned on Lokrum
for a local legend: On Lokrum, according to legend, in 1191. landed English King
Richard I the Lionhearted, caught in the storm on his return from the Third Crusade.
As I flew with Cilipi to Split, Dubrovnik watched as if he wanted again is an
important place in the Mediterranean. The next moment, Dubrovnik has been
missing from sight.

70
EXCURSION TO KORNATI
LANDSCAPE THAT EVOKES ODYSSEY

When I was traveling in the town of Vodice, it is a small town in the middle of the
Croatian Adriatic coast; I had no idea that there exists such incredible beauty and
diversity of the sea and islands. I was convinced that such a thing is possible only in
the Greek-Mediterranean meridians, or there in some Polynesia and Easter Island.
Cruising area of Kornati islands, islets, rocks and cliffs, has turned into a memorable
perceived, one of those dreams again. While the ship that morning did not start the
tour, I knew the following: Kornati declared a national park in 1980, and then placed
under protection. The total area of the park is about 220 km ² and consists of 89
islands, islets and reefs. The park area is only about a quarter of the land, while the
rest of the marine ecosystem. The distribution area is rich in natural and cultural
features. Steep cliffs, "Crown", on Kornati, facing to the open sea, are the most
popular phenomena of the park. In addition, indeed seem challenging, like the two
in Norway. They are also the habitats of rare plant and animal species.
We boarded the ship "Mermaid" (Morska Vila) and set sail, Adriatic Sea,
which in the morning was calm. Moreover, after only about twenty minutes, the
usual coastal landscapes began to change. Simply that heats from altered geography,
topography and optics. In our eyes blaze increasing crystals yellow and white, which
originates from the upcoming bunch of rocks, reefs, islets and real island?

71
All of these rocks, except the few with low vegetation, which acts as an exception,
like some ancient God scattered across the clear blue skies, which indicates the
depth. Indeed, local legend says that the Kornati, this white island, formed when God
pointed rock in the creation of the world. Is this the Zeus? He scattered them and
decided that nothing should changed.
Moreover, this is the moment when I think of the ancient heroes of Homer
and Odysseus. Somehow, I our journey, in a flash, he identifies with his return to
Ithaca. I enjoy this amazing and dizzying alternation of vertical and distorted forms
of rock. I see hundreds of different bird species. The ship sails on the deep water of
the sea. The sun blazed down on the right side of the ship, and extraordinarily
frolics. Subscribe to peacefully our invasion of the Kornati archipelago. I understand
the unusual pleasure in promoting through this amazing landscape. Although it
seems surreal, my imagination and reading classics created such an expectation that
the appearance of the sorcerer Circa certainly could expected. Of course, it could
appear in one of the steep cliffs, which here poetically called "crowns." The longest
"crown" above sea level is located on the island of Mana (1,350 m), the highest on
the island Klobucar (82 m). It was "Crown", of course, and here overwhelmingly
stretched toward the sea. The deepest "crown" is located on the island Piskera.
Usually we cruised around the southern part of the National Park, the highest cliff
obučar. We remain on the board, even though some of us prefer to walk around the
island. However the official route, they must be respected. By continuing voyage, I
noticed that the sea became rougher. Our guide informs us about the past of these
islands: during the Byzantine left, according too many, the most stroked building
that is now found in the Kornati Tureta fort on the island of Kornati (Late Antiquity
and the Early Middle Ages - probably from the 6th century). For the fort is supposed
to have had a military purpose, to safeguard and control the navigation, then at all
uncertain Adriatic Sea. Very interesting objects from the Byzantine period is the
early Christian three-vaulted basilica, which is located at the foot of Tureta works,
and which can still be seen most of the apse and the ground. We reach on the islet
called Ravni Žakan.
This is intended pause to bath and lunch. I have to admit, the more I am glad
that the expected launch in the authentic ambiance of fishing huts, the merry by
smallish plateau above the sea. I was not only longed for hunger, but from romantic
expectation to experience a typical Dalmatian angler’s lunch. We go swimming,
which is much different from what the urban beaches. Here everyone moving away
from the coast, or dive in blue, gives the impression of adventure.
However, there is a growing sense that time had become cloudy. High on the
horizon appear sparkling, torn clouds, which can quickly pile up. In addition, since
our lunch in the primordial atmosphere of island life would not do anything. Staff
hurriedly entered already prepared food: fish and fish and fish, - so, three types of
fish, then transmit the shells and Swiss and boiled potatoes and wine. In addition, it
is all stored in the ship. I look at watch, was 4 o'clock in the afternoon. Meanwhile
subsequent mounting clouds while the waves amplified. The guide tells us a polite
apology but we have to storm to get back to the starting point.
Thus, the direction - port Vodice. We forced to have lunch at board. Still very
tasty, made up entirely of seafood, but some of us have managed to get a bit scared.

72
However, I still enjoy this surreal scene Kornati that is more froth from the
onslaught of the waves. Where is Odysseus? I am thinking of him and the like of the
great playwright Bernard Shaw. He says, "On the last day of the Creation world, God
desired to crown his work and thus created the Kornati out of tears, stars and
breath.”
Ship "Morska Vila” (Mermaid) is a brave and safe sailing of the completely
turbulent archipelago. We are going slower than outgoing, less admire craggy white-
yellow atmosphere, some fear, some singing because they drink many strong
Dalmatian wines. Moreover, unbelievably, just as the ship sailed in Vodice harbor,
the storm began. So much so, that all the exciting beauty of the Kornati islands sank
into the dark curtain of rain. However, in the morning, experience the island that is
worthy of Odysseus, he was in my mind even more intense and exciting.

73
ITALY
ZORAN SLAVIC

74
Story of the Leaning Tower of Pisa

Pisa is a noble place. Although the through papal history and all the other wars, a
lot of bleeding. Today it is a big city. It is meeting place for tourism, science, and
industry. The Leaning Tower knows it, above all, but we should not forget that a
good reputation long ago acquired by his well-known, former inhabitant Galileo
Galijej. His great scientist, mathematician, connoisseur space physics, astronomer,
Moreover, subversively philosopher, who side-by-side, but and opposite the Church
and its Dogmas, started with the new interpretation universe. Turning theory spaces
in the place where they stopped Copernicus, the genius of Pisa, grew up under
challenging slope Tower, began the modern era of space science.
Because, following the path of the tower, leaning against the cathedral, which was
built in the Romanesque style, his view crosscut of in the center of the universe, and
not may be different: a no-compromise, staring into eternity future. Scientific
unconditionally. In addition, over the centuries aimed at improvement.
Moreover, we are back in Crnjanski. Still staying in Pisa. Of course in Tuscany.
'' Here, leaning, marble tower looks like a telescope made of ivory, a gigantic
boatman, down on the ground behind the town.'' With a desire to continue the path
to Florence. What a coincidence, and he mentioned binoculars. Unlike Galileo,
Crnjanski not want to look at the structure of heaven, because he is a poet and not a
scientist. He wants to know the human soul, which is part of the world. Therefore, it
not separated from it. Should be accepted as one, indivisible glade hill; death is
temporary but are eternal cheerfulness; air and jump player''.

75
 Despite her visible and even a frightening obliqueness below, a huge mass of
tourists covering the area around the tower and the Cathedral. Entrance and exit
from them. Obsessed with this famous and unnatural slanted "rocket", which is
directed at the Tuscan sky, sightseers spend hours here. I the Leaning Tower of Pisa
look like a Jules Verne ran off with literary table. Here
spread the excitement and become part of the great spectacle, which takes hundreds
of years. And it continues to this day. The mix of physics and religion not only
because of the Pope, who was born in Pisa, and metaphysics and Tourism, I feel a bit
unreal, confused and lonely. Now we are in the same place at “The miraculous
Square'' on which the cathedral stands, older than her fabulous Leaning Tower. The
tower however, with its ''deviations'' overshadowed almost all the attractions of
history, and in the present of the city and its surroundings.
We located right where the 1173 started the construction of the tower, next
to the cathedral, which built fifty years before. After a break of nearly a hundred
years, the construction was resumed, and after its completion it became evident that
the Tower constant leaning, to the south.
Therefore, every year the tower is twisted 1.3 mm, so that today, the bill
shows that the distortion is 5.3 meters. That is impressive and scary given. In
addition, the Tower of Pisa is a visual, scientific and metaphysical challenge. Science
says that the root cause - inadequate, sandy soil. It is not, however, negligible weight
of the eight floor stone built. When I was in Pisa, it was April or May; I climbed the
stairs up to the top. There were 296 despite the beautiful views of the surroundings,
I must say I was all the time thinking about the law of gravity. But and the Galileo
Galilei, who has a direct link to this law, as well as with the city of Pisa, because he
was born in it 1564th. However, not everything is "harmless" when it comes to
Galileo, ancient and famous inhabitant of Pisa. When it today novelist Dan Brown, in
his publicized thriller'' Angels and Demons'' Galileo puts the apex of the infamous
Illuminati, caused some discomfort. With all respect Dan Brown's, for the grand
scientific work of Galileo Galilei, ask you if it is just a novelistic imagination or
perhaps a recurrence of ancient scientific and religious debate. However, that not
even slightly disturbed Leaning Tower of Pisa to remain one of the world's tourist
and scientific wonders.
As I look at today's postcard Leaning Tower in the close-up, as well as to
remember the anxiety of climbing to the eighth floor of the 14,000 tons of heavy
marble building. When in 1983 the bell at the top abandoned him, due to the effect
of curvature, begin science, construction and other organized efforts, Italy and the
world, to the overwhelming call of landing slow down or stop. With little legitimate
rights, but with no sense of historical and touristic justification, there is still a
opinion that tower may need to correct.

76
WHEN I SAY: VENICE: I THINK ELEGY

Venice today, despite elite "Film Festival" and "Fine Art Biennale," unparalleled
in the world, is still as magnificent "scenery", herbarium of love and all sorts of
illusions, an endless series of annuals, seductive warehouse bygone times - a city
whose memory hidden the facades, ceremonies and artistic past, inevitably calls
Elegiac even on a bright day. In Venice, no longer has the warrior and merchant
power, but power past that the city now has, never shall be bright and cheerful! This
city, the sea threatening, the habitat of which channels contain sludge "worth"
exhibition at the museum of civilization, but it is no less sad, Renaissance palaces,
Baroque castles, museums, parks, birds, saints and inquisitors - it all seems real.
Particularly are same at dusk or early morning. Still, every morning they remain in
effect - they are just a part of history that is. Makeup, mask, disguise, crinolines.
Decadence with shadows and all kinds of refined licentiousness, genius prints cruel
symbols of power, religious ecstasy and saints with frescoes. However, Venice is
now too heavy a burden even for a Europe that is often in her dying. It expanded and
night.
She worried about her neuroses while creating masterpieces. I was dying with
the writer Thomas Mann, without him. How you today sounding title "Death in
Venice"? I got the impression that here, in Venice, a woven from spider webs,
breathing delayed for life. First, it spends, then the breathing. As does Mann's
Ašenbah. Proust is, therefore, no coincidence, their'' lost time'' looking back in
bunches of light and glory of this city keeps on Renaissance paintings.
While in the restaurant'' Arcimboldo sip the local grape ''Amarone”, looking at the
sparkling waves and imagine a Napoleon fleet after Ajaccio Toulon and Genoa
anchored in the sheltered harbor. Sheltered from the winds. Not from history. While

77
the overall total summer shower water adds more water, with a little
embarrassment judgment about whether the sea occupied the sidewalks until the
evening.
It's only noon. End of the century, and I am under the impression reading is
considering whether to Kafka and Joyce, around 1912/3 may have met somewhere
on the road between Trieste and Venice. The Irishman would tell him about his
work'' and'' chamber music shy resident of Prague remained silent to their love
woes with Felice Bauer. It would be impressive silence hovered over which the
questioning Rilke:'' Is there really time to destroy?
His "Duino Elegies'', originated here in Northern Italy between Trieste and Venice,
as they are key to understanding the city through whose veins flows the muddy
water channels have their gondolas and bridges, and with whom we now have the
impression that our eyes see Inquisitor, Doges., courtesans and sailors.
However, La Corbusier confidently says that the sailors and traders, builders and
rulers of Venice are the vanguard of today's youth and civilization. In addition, yes, if
you forget the torturers, the crusaders, conquistadors. We should not forget,
however, Shakespeare’s ‘‘The Merchant of Venice''.

78
IN VENICE, THINKING ABOUT PRAGUE AND RILKE

Neither Prague to me that winter was not at will. Due to Rilke, to whom,
otherwise, this magical city, he was not too popular. At least until within it brought
up. Although young Reiner once said that, his Bohemia and Russia are two
destinations that can call their home while I with vapor drive to the island of
Murano, where from the red-hot glass , blowing, create stunning vases, glasses and
other crystal magic, became clear to me why I'm here in Venice thought to Prague.
Last year I, in fact, passed on the Vltava River Cruises Home Prague Venice cruises. I
went to the boat to go for a ride on the Devil's stream in the Kampa. In this luxury
mahogany, boat reveled in the mysterious place that will make me feel like in a fairy
tale. The Devil's Stream is a small stream dividing the Kampa Island and the Lesser
Quarter. To name it supposedly got from a woman, I owned a house on the island,
because it behaved like a devil. For centuries, the Devil's stream serves as water
supply for several mills. The navigation on this exciting and crisscrossed with
waterways has received the name of tourism Prague's Venice cruise.
Returning from Murano, we are in the Grand Canal. Now I was driving it
I travel in a gondola under the Rialto Bridge. I am going back to Rilke. He is,
however, the most loved Paris. In Venice, he came by from Trieste. Actually came
from Duino Castle where he wrote his known "Duineser elegies." Russia, however,
was something else. Mostly due to Lou Andreas Salome, whom he met Tolstoy and

79
Pasternak family. In addition, he enters into the world of psychoanalysis. Moreover,
all this happened in the shadow of Sigmund Freud.
Then go from Prague with the awareness that Rilke had left him in exile, to be
able to write. In the same way as how it did and Joyce. When it comes to his native
Dublin. Leaving him to one-day come back ruefully at him. I was in Venice. I'm going
to visit the famous church of Santa Maria Della Salute. Which is a Serbian poet Laza
Kostic wrote his famous elegy? Meet eternal Rilke, then, and as it was expected, as
he's ever occurring almost every time I visit him places that possess a certain "Alef''
in Venice. In which, he said, Aleph, magnificent. As evidenced by the writer Vladimir
Pistalo. It was in the evening. As the day hides behind the Doge's Palace. And
gondola, one by one, disappearing into the sky rift, which opened behind the Basilica
of St. Mark. While summer shower inside the sea adds more water, with little
discomfort I estimate whether the city liquid until evening dart and sidewalks.
Although it is still morning. The new century has been, and am under the impression
reading, consider the possibility of whether Kafka and Joyce, sometime in 1912.
They could meet somewhere on the way between Trieste and Venice. Irishman to
tell him about "chamber music'' and shy Prague representative kept silent to their
love woes with Felice Bauer. It would be impressive silence hovered over which the
questioning Rilke: "Is their really time destroyer”. His "Duineser elegy," created here
in northern Italy between Trieste and Venice. Because they are the key to
understanding this city, in which veins flows turbid water channels? The city, which
has its gondolas and bridges. And with tower which keeps in its memory views
inquisitor laughter courtesan and thirst sailors.
In Venice, I again think about Prague. I remember Rilke, who in spite of
unceasing desire love, broken by the melancholy, though constantly been thinking
about this city caught between the Czech and German culture. He was a writer who
is looking for thought in both languages. This is why most gladly, he wrote his works
in French. In Venice, while awaiting the tide to the Rialto Adriatic Gulf, I can see
under the Charles Bridge Vltava compliments history. While Rilke, however,
embraces the distance. I left thinking about the elusiveness of Umberto Eco's novel
"IL Cimitero DI Praga". Rilke, Kafka, Seifert Hrabal ... After Venice, easy for me to
imagine them all together, you would have only added to the company of Mozart,
standing in front of the "Astronomical Clock," Of course, in the old Prague, Old Town
Square. I became involved in a bunch of people standing in front of him, waiting to
see the figures of the apostles in shifts. The clock made in 1410 years. This watch
includes not only the figures of the apostles, a skeleton, a Turk, a miser and a
hotheaded person, but represents the entire astronomical science. This clock
indicates the year, months, days and hours, showing sunrise and sunset, the rising
and setting of the moon, and represents the celestial signs. In addition, the same
thing, they were doing - showed and proved the world of meaning and
meaninglessness of life!

80
RIMINI, THE PLACE WHERE THE EUROPE RESTED
MY TRIP TO EARLY SPRING

I came for the first time in Rimini in April. Our arrival in Rimini initially based
in faith that the Church of San Giuliano Martire sees the famous Veronese fresco. We
barely managed to see! At the time of this trendy city, a bit of the past, those when
Europe rather bathe in spas, and only timidly revealed the Adriatic Sea, just
preparing for the season. As the destination of the current mass European tourism,
the middle class, I would say, even the lower middle class. At the entrance to the
city, meet us the tourist agents of society, on motorbikes. There were two young
men on the "Vespa". All this happened at the entrance to this famous, historically
significant, a place immortalized in Fellini's film. The city is, walking time, become
somewhat forgotten pool of Northern Italy.
In addition, there used to be a prestigious resort all over Europe. They waited
for us, therefore, emissaries of tourism that does not give up. We deliver to the city
whose habits and needs that welcome guests become bigger than theirs, those
guests wanting to stay right here for more. Escorted us to the hotel housed near the
coast. Because hundreds of hoteliers lurking guests.
In addition, it all started and on that bank. On the shore of the Adriatic Sea.
Before about 800,000 years ago, when they landed here, people from nearby peaks,
named Covinjano. They went out to sea and stay there. Another water stream, so to
speak, has also entered the very legend of the area. These were landscapes in which
Theja, one after the other, came Etruscans, Umbro, Greeks, Gaul's, and finally the
Romans. That remains forever. In the surroundings the former Ariminus, crossing
the Rubicon Water, Julius Caesar came to the battle against the emperor Pompey.
Starting the war and entered history. It was the 49th BC. Today, some Rubicon flows
near the state of San Marino. There is a phrase - the gambler usually smaller format
of Caesar and Pompeii are no more! Rimini, with its hundreds of hotels, motels,

81
rooms, invites tourists to visit this part of the Adriatic coast. The sea is gray-yellow
here, because it is near the mouth of the River Po. Another city, founded on Mount
Titano, San Marino, the corresponding states, no longer opposed the city of Rimini,
from which the Malatesta dynasty ruled the landscape for centuries. Romagna. Now,
contacts between the two communities are operating, on daily basis, by system of
communicating vessels. So good, no matter what Rimini and San Marino, in fact, are
the representatives of the two countries. Superhighway convergence of the city,
smaller, San Marino, due to its historical exoticism, and functional Ceremonies,
record the expansion of one-day visitors. For guests and tourists in San Marino is
quite normal that for the evening will return to Rimini, where they will party and
sleep.
We settled into the hotel'' Viking'', Via Galatea. With the number four. Two
blocks from the beach. Two stars. This hotel is very cheap in months before eason.
In the city that inspired the famous movie “Amakord”, though nothing unusual.
Large sandy beaches were empty. High seas it was lost in the fog. Rare off-season
tourists were wandering around on an empty beach. Curiosity banished from their
rooms. Thus, spring tourists spent their free time between two rainstorms and
visiting ancient ruins and less of the old ruins of the old part of the city. All this
happens on the other side of the highway that reaches out to San Marino. Where you
can see the Sigesmonda Malatesta castle, which now serves as a city jail. However,
Augustus arcades, Tiberius Bridge and the remains of a large amphitheater. That old
Rimini was once appealing and Hadrian. Probably because has fantastic views of the
blue Adriatic and the many quiet bays. That part of the city me this night seems too
quiet. I would say even alienated. Modern life is on the left right next to him.
Temporary resident of Rimini, in the 14th century, the great painter Giotto, whose ''
naturalism'' is in the representation of the human figure turning point in Western
painting, in its Renaissance itinerary, after Rome, Padua and Areca, made a great
impact on the local fresco.
We spent the evening at Ristorante “Teatini”, with good wine and seafood. For
the next morning, we had planned to go to the Museo Della Citta.

82
RIMINI IN AUTUMN:
MUSEUMS. CHURCH. FORTRESS

In October, the rains have already started; I came for the second time in
Rimini. I immediately went to the coast, to would breathe the Adriatic, as the
Ligurian sea from which I arrived, was not hospitable. However, while the Bellariva
beach watching the sea, quiet and see a tremendous amount of gray-blue water, I do
not feel calm. Flat sandy shore, felt, too smooth, does not provide any guarantee that
we can protect me from the big waves. Even though the area in this part of the
Adriatic and there, but of relaxation, inhalation and solarization, that autumn
afternoon, yet there was nothing. Rimini is only for summer tourism. Thus, it was
from the very beginning, even before the First World War. Morning, cappuccino and
pizza at the pizzeria La Sfiziosa. Then we go to see Veronese. In the Church of San
Giuliano Martire. In which we hardly got because the night before someone tried to
rob. At church however, we first fell in eyes fifteenth century paintings by Bittino
from Faenza, which portray the stories of San Giuliano.
We went to the hotel. The same, as last year -'' Viking''. Why change the habit.
However, the hotel owner, a native of Catholics, we became friends last time;
gladden us with a large bathroom. Some guests in hotel servants only recruited from
the family. Peace. I suited such a relaxed atmosphere because I was getting ready to
record TV emissions in the state of San Marino. From the literature, see how the
rulers of Riming, Ablates family, in the end were great rivals of the old republic in
the world. Nor are they, Malatesta was a very important military force, because how
else to explain such a long-time dealing with a miniature state that grew up around
Mount Titano. In addition, all this is only fifty kilometers away from the center of

83
Rimini. As well from palaces Malatesta. Nobles, however, bring an interesting and
cruel practice.
In Rimini's Museo Della Città, with respect to the famous mosaics and
paintings, mostly I retained by the world's largest collection of Roman surgical
instruments. It is possible also to visit an authentic surgical room at the time. I
personally, however lacked the famous story of Francesca DA Rimini! I still
welcomed!

84
RIMINI
FRANCESCA, DANTE’S INSPIRATION

We spent the afternoon walking in that part of Rimini where they once ruled
Malatesta. Then we headed along the endless sandy beaches. Now, in late autumn,
the beach is completely abandoned. In summer, they, however, experienced a real
invasion of tourists, most of which have - Italians. Then, return in the hotel. There
we dined. In addition, followed by the unexpected is part of the started story.
Miocene Đanpjero, director of the hotel, already stricken in years, draws my
attention to the rulers of Rimini, Malatesta, had good relations with the Popes, and
sails are mentioned in Dante. However, this story of history does not have a good
ending! Đanpjero evening story, with little consultation with the history and
literature, was as follows: the noble families with Polenta of Ravenna, Guido II to
Polenta, lord of Ravenna, in the late thirteenth century, engaged in a war with the
Malatesta, who seemed to be in conflict with all their neighbors. During a ceasefire
that Guido Polenta devised that marriage of their daughter, Francesca beauty,
Malatesta’s successor lineage, Giovanni, strengthens hard-ended peacefully. Up to
this point, everything is fine. The problem, and it is not small is because the groom
Giovanni was lame and physically deformed. Until then, no one knew that he and his
psyche was in that state. Anyway, the guy, knowing her daughter's stubbornness,
mediated Malatesta`s younger son Paolo, of course, charming and nice, succeeds his
ugly Giovanni.

85
 Life, however, to Paolo and Francesca DA Polenta, later called Da Rimini; ended
tragically, however, for us today seems melodramatic. In reading, apparently, along
the medieval epic about the impossible love Lancelot and Queen Guinevere, the
young, innocent, and naive, loved it. Francesca's husband Giovanni, who was King
Arthur, but the typical bloodthirsty Maltesta, caught them in negligence, and both -
kill. History says that it was the year 1285. In Rimini, near Ravenna. In that
Belongs and my friend, the hotel owner, Đanpiero. In his'' Divine Comedy'',
reminiscence poetic life, death, love, greed, fame and punishment, Dante Alighieri, a
contemporary of Francesco, by began his epic 1308th, perpetuated her name and
the victim. The great French painter Ingres, in his famous painting of the 1819th
shows a scene in which the son of Giovanni finds in Paolo and Francesca. Rodin''
Kiss’’ there is also the theme of unfortunate lovers. Composers Tchaikovsky and
Rachmaninoff dedicated to creating works of Francesca Da Rimini, and D'Annunzio
wrote a drama with the role of Eleonora Duse. The same one, we encounter in
Mougins, with Picasso. Fellini there is airport of Rimini and Francesca place in Dante
eternal part. Moreover, appears as a motif in other works of art. We had lunch that
day in the Quartopiano Suite Restaurant. We ate Italian specialties and enjoy in
beautiful view of the sea. After that, the road took us to San Marino.
We spent the afternoon walking in that part of Rimini where they once ruled
Malatesta. Then we headed along the endless sandy beaches. In summer, they,
however, experienced a real invasion of tourists, most of which have - Italians. Then
back to the hotel. Dinner. In addition, follow the unexpected story.
Miocene Đanpjero, director of the hotel, already stricken in years, draws my
attention to the rulers of Rimini, Malatesta, had good relations with the Popes, and
says are mentioned in Dante. Đanpjero evening story, with little consultation with
the history and literature, was as follows: the noble families Lord of Polenta of
Ravenna, in the late thirteenth century, attacks on Malatesta, who, it seems, at war
with all its neighbors. During a ceasefire that Guido Polenta devised that marriage
of their daughter, Francesca beauty, Malatesta’s successor lineage, Giovanni,
strengthens hard-ended peace. Up to this point, everything is fine. The problem, and
it is not small is because the groom Giovanni was lame and physically deformed.
Until then, no one knew that he and his psyche was in that state. Anyway, the guy,
knowing her daughter's stubbornness, mediated Malatesta`s younger son Paolo, of
course, charming and nice, succeeds his ugly Giovanni.
Life, however, to Paolo and Francesca Da Polenta, later called Da Rimini, ended
tragically, however for us today seem melodramatic. In reading, apparently, along
the medieval epic about the impossible love Lancelot and Queen Guinevere, the
young, innocent, and naive, loved it. Francesca's husband Giovanni, who was King
Arthur, but the typical bloodthirsty Maltesta, caught them in negligence, and both -
kill. History says that it was the year 1285, in Rimini, near Ravenna. My friend Jan-
Piero, the hotel owner, was born in or around Ravenna.
In Dante Alighieri '' Divine Comedy'', reminiscence poetic life, death, love,
greed, fame and punishment, Dante Alighieri, a contemporary of Francesco, by
began his epic 1308th, perpetuated her name and the victim. The great French
painter Ingress, in his famous painting of the 1819th shows a scene in which the son
of Giovanni finds in Paolo and Francesca. Rodin'' Kiss’’ there is also the theme of

86
unfortunate lovers. Composers Tchaikovsky and Rachmaninoff dedicated to creating
works of Francesca Da Rimini, and D'Annunzio wrote a drama with the role of
Eleonora Duse. The same one you encounter in Mougins, with Picasso. Fellini there
is airport of Rimini and Francesca place in Dante eternal part. This motif also found
in many works of art.
We had lunch that day in the Quartopiano Suite Restaurant. We enjoyed the
Italian food and the view of the sea. After that, the road took us to San Marino.

87
SAN MARINO
ZORAN SLAVIC

88
SAN MARINO
THE PAST PRESERVED BESIDE OF THE MONTE
TITANO

I referred to, the main road from Rimini to San Marino, with the impression that I
was properly prepared for an encounter with the world's oldest republic. Because
sovereignty and republicanism San Marino dates back to 1600 AD. Malicious, a place
that is currently I visit, called fossil to hill Monte Titano. I knew they were a very
small country, about 60 square miles, and in that area there are about thirty
thousand inhabitants. I expected so much anachronistic encounter with the world.
Everything here is preserved action of centuries past and tradition but with the
deliberate intention to this dissimilarity highlight and show. I visit first, though, a
surprise, a real little visual shock I experienced when I was approaching '' capital “of
the mini-states.
Suddenly, as if from the sky or clouds, appeared silhouetted, or dome - Monte
Titano. Unexpectedly hill, without warning, there arose before we set the scene for
the filming of a movie. In which the holy Marin man from the Balkans, originally
from the island of Rab, reconstruct the story of the origin of the settlement that
would become the city-state. Later, carefully nurtured and legend. For Hill, Monte
Titano, where the principalities emerged, I knew a little bit of geography. However,

89
no one warned me that Monte Titano, not too tall, about 750 meters, has a tendency
to suddenly come up, only the middle of rolling Emilia Romagna. The road from
Rimini - straight, though with one unexpected sharp curve, followed by Titano
jumps right in sight. But, when we take into account some local history and
geography, or pseudo facts, like the sudden appearance of the cult and dome seat of
Serenissima Republics DI San Marino, and not unexpected.
However, at the outset, however, was a monk Marin. He came from the Adriatic
island of Rab. He was Diocletian, the Roman Imperator, expelled from Dalmatia for
spreading Christianity. Moreover, the servant of God, with Rab, stood on the rocks of
Monte Titano. In addition, when was the stonemason, starts, of course, that chiseled
in limestone, houses and gates? What time since becoming a city and state. What are
they called, grateful his name. Marin. Saint. San Marino! However, they had to fight
over 900 years. What makes them very annealed and freedom loving? The three
towers, which are located in the coat of arms of the Republic, The Guaita, The Road
and The Montale, testify to the warrior tradition of San Marino. While entering in
San Marino, in its capital, also called Chita, while I am watching Titano from the mist,
as if the streets unusually clear, as in Switzerland, I see people with an awareness of
the fact that they are different from the Italian environment. They are. History does
not allow them to be ordinary. It takes them a little strain. The ceremonies. Pride.
However, the national income is much higher than our Italy and parts of Europe.
For tomorrow, we planned to visit three famous towers of the city, and a visit to the
Museum section of the army. However, before going to sleep we dined at
"Restaurant Bolognese". Of course, we had lunch - pasta!

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SAN MARINO 2
TOWN THAT IS LIVING MUSEUM

On the first day, tour in San Marino, during the tour of the famous three towers, the
Second tower we visited famous and popular „ The Museum of Ancient Arms”. The
collection of ancient arms is composed of more than 1550 side arms, spears, fire,
arms, bows, crossbows, tools and accessories dating back to different ages between
the Middle Ages and the end of the 1800. For many exhibits, part of it has moved to
the annex of the Museum in Borgo Maggiore. The curiosity of this museum is the
Colt Navy revolver, and that belonged to the revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi. This
weapon was once Samuel Colt himself gave this brave Italian military leader.
On leaving the museum and we come down from Ort, we started to look at this town
quite differently.
When a visitor just a little dive into the urban landscape of these states, from among
those miniature in Europe, it becomes clear that buildings surrounded it, facade,
history, ceremonial conventions, all which creates the impression of moving
continually through one, not imaginary, but only revived, Museum of Europe, the
past. The capital, San Marino, is at first glance, an integral Museum former noble

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time. In addition, not just because of the existence of a multitude of museums,
galleries and exhibitions in the history of free space. Everything looks like a museum
display and the total ambient. Such a scenario of life events, such as scenery all to
see, and stylistic appropriateness of all public life, of course, shape and define the
most management of these states. Whether politically or economically. I am
convinced that all that effort made in part due to amaze tourists. Coming en masse
to the city, anchored in the heart of Italy. A formal - an independent and sovereign!
Nevertheless, do not overlook the innate tendency to residents of San Marino; in the
strict tradition of fostering protect their centuries-long special. Which currently of
globalization, it is very vulnerable. Therefore, in San Marino be in effect a state
project - the past, somewhat embellished approximated modern times just enough
to make it more accessible and attractive, converted into an exclusive marketable
product. Moreover, it has really worked!
Probably because, tradition them to do so undertakes or force, the state let has what
might larger countries - no. Television, newspapers, sports federations, diplomacy,
theaters, schools, museums, galleries, equestrian competitions, philately, more cars
than people, a police chief who is a stranger, lift, honorary consuls. Democracy. They
of all that earn a lot of money but on that reluctant to speak. We spent the night at
hotel "Titano," who is visually drawn on hill Monte Titano. With a powerful view of
the surroundings. In addition, the rooms where there are real antiques from the past
of European hotels.

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THREE TOWERS ON THE HILL WHERE WAS AND THE
WHALE

When you leave the city and state of San Marino, which exists in the middle of
Italy, will remember the image plane where suddenly appears Mount Titano. If
enough away to a nearby Romagna will see this hill, with its three towers, as a
graphic hanging on the sky over Italy. They are symbolic, archaic and picturesque
story of the defensive wall of the city heard and listened to, always stay in San
Marino. In this city, which is formed on the slopes of strange and sudden hills?
The road goes straight for a while, followed by unexpected and sharp curves,
and then Monte Titano jumped to the forefront. I say unexpected, however when we
take into account some of the local historical and geographical data, or legend, then
the sudden appearance of the hill located in the coat of arms Serenisima, and not
surprisingly. Some researchers, in fact, found that the soil structure of Monte Titano
almost identical with that which can be sampled on the hills which lie between the
rivers Tiber and Arno, in Tuscany. I took the hypothesis to this, an independent rock
today, as a raft, before the 15 - 20 million years ago, driven by prehistoric
earthquakes, floating land and stopped here, just twenty miles from the sea. In
addition, it did not stop; San Marino maybe today was the Adriatic island! In
addition, on the hill three towers Guaita first, then the Cetsta and finally comes the
Montale. These towers and find the flag Republic.
The very first day in this city, we crisscrossed paths between these towers, which
for centuries represented the defensive wall, especially against the lords Malatesta
of Rimini. By that, tallest, tower climb we were pretty heated and slightly tired. The
Guaita fortress is the oldest of the three towers constructed on Monte Titano, and
the most famous. It was built in the 11th century and served some time as a prison.
First Tower, with a pentagonal base, dates back to the tenth century. It has,
however, been reinforced many times in the past. The final appearance this the

93
tower gets during the second half of the fifteenth century, while in the sixteenth
century it covered with a gabled roof. It is called the "Rocca Guaita" and, within its
solid walls, protected by double walls (the external wall with Merlons and truncated
towers at the corners), the population found refuge during sieges. View from the top
reveals the city of San Marino heals but still the province of Emilio Romagna.
Interestingly, the courtyard contains some pieces of artillery from the Second World
War: two mortars, a gift from Vittorio Emanuele II. On the second and the highest
pinnacle of Mount Titano, 756 meters high, we find the Castle Road (also called
Fratta). Build at the end of the XI century; this too has a pentagonal floor plan. The
Second Tower housed the Fortification Guards Division as well as some prison cells.
Today the road Tower houses the Museum of Archaic Arms, as I wrote in a previous
story on the city/state.
Lastly, the Third Tower, Montale called, dates back to the end of the thirteenth
century. Dimension wise, this is the smallest of the towers; however, for defensive
purposes, this tower played a strategic role: it has the best position for a lookout
post. Tired, a bit fed up with the history, weapons, guns, swords and shields, and
most of all many steps, I'll be back still satisfy. This time, Titan was behind me. And
watching me hidden in the mist. As if on the streets, unusually clean, as in
Switzerland, I see people with a conscience that are different from the Italian
environment. They are. History does not allow them to be ordinary. This makes
them a little strain. With frequent ceremonies. It does this with a lot of historical
pride. However, they rewarded with national income much higher than our Italy
and parts of Europe.
We had lunch in the "Titan," old but much renovated house on a hill in the
center. We started the meal with the mussels to the navy way, and this unusual
lunch complete with tagliatelle with anchovy sauce and basil. Let us say that here
pastes very well prepared! We drank wine Tuscan. I remembered that I owe you the
story of the whale skeleton from the top of Monte Titano. Because, really at the top
of the hill, at one time, scientists have found whale skeleton, which can still be seen
at the City Museum. However, were discovered and elements of corals, which are
also part of the sediment Monte Titano. Therefore, that is the belief that this hill was
once the Adriatic atoll, it is possible!

94
FRANCE
ZORAN SLAVIC

95
CANNES: LA CROISETTE
A PROMENADE THAT LEADS DIRECTLY INTO MOVIES

I traveled from the Nice to Cannes. We filmed the show on the Cote d'Azur.
Compare too many places on the Cote d'Azur or the south of France, Cannes is not
the most beautiful or the most important city. However, the by perception and
publicity, particularly in exclusive target of known concentration, celebrity and the
predominant people, especially from the world of film, this is a city, at least once a
year, one of the capital cities of the world. Be in Cannes is thing of prestige.
Therefore, I was in the city, where each year showing the world the best movies, five
times! I passed promenade La Croisette at least two times a day. From our
apartments in the building called Palais, in which maintains the Cannes Film
Festival. Fully air-conditioned and self-building. In the morning, I went there, and in
the evening, I was returning to the board. On this route, a relatively short, just over 2
kilometers, lies about the grandeur of buildings, vegetation, sea, commercial and
glamour. Promenade is always full of world famous artists. Especially those from the
film industry.
Here, during the Festival relocate all persons with a front-page world media.
However, I came to Cannes to the Fair television programs, but I felt a vertiginous
obsession with the world of film. Cannes has no airport, and the easiest way to come
the highway from Nice. There is a coastal road along the coast, and the Canes can
arrive by train. No matter what aircraft not even landing in Monte Carlo, Cannes and
Monaco are now more prestigious destinations of Nice, which was once called the
queen of the Cote d'Azur.

96
La Croisette in Cannes and he is the city has most populated almost village while
flying his total wealth in large quantities of visitors exceeding gross income between
many countries of the world. Daily walks along the promenade, in the early
morning, I saw how meticulously clean the beach next to the hotel, as daily
supplements sand, shortly hosts and people make all these guests from the world
have in mind only the sight of this genteel resort. One spring evening I stopped by
with friends in the garden of a hotel. Let us have an aperitif before lunch. We sat in
the Garden Hotel Carlton. My host, the Serb who lives and works in France, he
warned me to be here in Cannes, but also in Antibes and Saint Raphael, catering
garden - warming in early spring. The explanation was unexpected: Atomic electric
power station, which is located in the hinterland of the Côte d'Azur, they have excess
energy - so heated and open spaces! Cannes and La Croisette are truly unique. A
living miracle, it seems fictitious and simulated, but life requires places were just a
product of the human need for illusions and ardor.
Film directors, actors, producers and starlets come to the festival in May.
Ordinary but wealthy tourists coming across the year but most have during the
summer. On the streets of Cannes can be seen ordinary and extraordinary people.
They are all colorfully dressed, and many of them take their pets - mostly poodles!
What is a story in itself? The yachts and cruise ship float in the blue water, and you
cannot always tell which is which by the size. Most of them are luxury cars. Blonde-
haired person in Maserati perform purchasing expensive fashion madness, Porsches
go almost unnoticed, while only the latest models of Lamborghini and Ferrari attract
serious attention. The city of Cannes is centered on the old port, which over time
more fits into the new parts of the settlement, which spreads on the hills. However,
most will remember the famous "Croisette," this famous boulevard, the boulevard
and the beach that extends around the bay to the east of the port, in the protected
"Rade de Cannes."
Once, as a guest film producer from Canada, I was sitting in the garden of a
luxurious and expensive hotels Carlton. It was a Sunday morning. Drink a fine drink
while Cannes visitors, almost all the rich and somewhat old, promote coastal
promenade. In addition, at that moment, I became aware of why many come here -
while walking along the Croisette; it is easy to believe that life is really a dream.

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LA CIOTAT
LUMIERE BROTHERS OF UNDERWATER SAFARI

At the dawn, when he was supposed to go to the inside, in the French Alps, by
Brignoles and Draguignan, downpour us hindered to do so within the stipulated
time. In addition, fortunately, since the delay proved enough and welcome colleague
Velimir to remember that the place through which we have passed, coming from
Marseille, La Ciotat, actually the town in which the railway station 1896th entered
the train, that Lumiere brothers were photographed. On that occasion, they used a
camera that is designed Edison. It is, therefore, a place by the beginning of the
history of motion pictures, films. A short film is Arrive' e d' un train en gare (Entry
train at La Ciotat), is the beginning of the film-truth, the famous documentary by the
Lumiere brothers starred in Lyon (Factory workers leaving a factory), then here at
Ciotat (The train enters ...) And finally in Paris (Was doused while pouring). These
are impressive silent films, short cuts, which depict the event itself without the
intervention of actor participation. It told us everything Velemir, otherwise a film
editor.
So, thankfully, and the dawn of Toulon was raining. When we arrived in La Ciotat, in
about twenty minutes, though, back to Marseilles, the city was drenched, drained
and bright, new almost like the beginning of the century. However, Velemir had to
wait with his film pursuits because most of the companies were the fact that the first

98
visit Abyss Garden. Our friend Dusko, otherwise avid diver, he could not venture
into the French seaside. That is why we went to the rocky end of La Ciotat; there is
the National Park of Calanques. They are Dusko managed to convince instructors to
no training, for which we had no time, however, to let him to dive into this azure sea.
After about fifteen minutes, which to us seemed like hours, he returned to the
terrace all delighted.
It was not the end of the enthusiastic stories about unusual sea`s creatures, corals
and the incredible stone shapes, that he saw while diving. Here, in La Ciotat, near
Marseilles. Now we can go back to the Lumiere brothers, and everything else. I'm
standing on the platform and try to bring up history. The camera comes to life. Life
through the camera gets in the drama. I felt the density of the time. I feel as if
impatient passengers waiting at a train. It was black-and-white photo from in 1896.
Moreover, we just stand in highly colored day. I am in La Ciotat, where the
enthusiasm is still the reality of the film. This times the tourists, what are we. In the
morning, at the end of spring, I'm standing at the station antiglare from the
Mediterranean sun, with cypress, poplar trees and palm trees in the background.
The train, electrical, enters the station lonely but cheerful. Steamer, people in winter
coats and snow, but they are still in the distant Lumiere projection. Manufacturer of
Lyons, celluloid dreamers, not only changed the world with his short films,
intervention in the life which is based on absolute not changing that same life, the
brothers Louis and Auguste, of course, Lumiere, and this Southern French town, for
eternal time, marked his prophetic skill. Today's residents La Ciotat are proud of
them. By city stories in this, we convinced.
Then we go to lunch at the "Trattoria Della Sergio” in the harbor. The motto of this
restaurant reads - Sun of Italy to your plate! Restaurant with a lot of white paint on
the walls and tablecloths, we had a very pleasant lunch: tomato mozzarella salad,
followed by Spaghetti garlic fried zucchini and for dessert Neapolitan Slice, (three
flavors Vanilla Ice, Strawberry and Chocolate). We drank wine Chianti and spent
almost two hours in a pleasant atmosphere.
La Ciotat has definitely entered the world, the big world. Place of thirty thousand
inhabitants more is not a fishing port on the outskirts of the Côte d'Azur. It is a great
tourist destination attraction. His Majesty the film is here to walk again. Let us go
look around the city, a little flushed with good wine. The building, an old, with the
end of the last century, the theater in which it was first shown in the famous train
entering the town, which would then become famous for being.
We arrive in front of the old hotel Vila, from 1864, in which is now the Maritime
Museum. There is also a church from the early seventeenth century, the repentant,
no matter the color complexion and race. With a coastline of La Ciotat, which acts as
ancient and undisturbed, natural and luxurious in vegetation, I saw the Cap Canaille,
top of the rock-cliff that I had visited before couple of days ago, in Cassis. With a
glass of wine, garden restaurant'' Chez Jean-Louis'', unbound from talking to some
locals, we decided to make our way in, Draguignan, and Grasse move in one day. We
unanimously decided that we have to visit the nearby town of Aubagne, for reasons
that will be revealed only when we reach this place in the Mediterranean hinterland.

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FROM SPAIN TO FRANCE AND ALL FOR THE SAKE OF
ANDORRA
THERE - SEU DE URGELL, AND BACK - PERPIGNAN

While I was making a television movie on small country Andorra, we arrived

to the ski slopes of Grandvalira. It was the beginning of May but the ski runs at full
speed. Your friendly hotels, fast and comfortable lifts and well-maintained trails
have attracted a great many winter sports enthusiasts. However, we were able in
this environment of snow and mountainous pleasures to keep only the evening
because we had to journalistic process another important issue: who, and how,
though only formally managed with this country - Andorra?
While we were before dinner and bedtime in Hotel "Refugi dels Isards" in Pas de la
Casa, reminiscent of the necessary data on the subject, writes: Since 1278. When the
feudal emperors, one on either side of the border, the French and the Spanish,
signed the so-called „Pareaž '', the first constitutional document of Andorra, and
latter decisions of Henry IV and Napoleon, or relevant decree by the Spanish, was
established double sovereignty of Andorra. In this state, formally, to this day, rule
the co-princes, the French resident in Perpignan while Spanish dwells in the
Bishop's Palace in Urgell.
So early in the morning we set to closer destinations - La Seu d'Urgell. In
addition, after an exciting ride through the Pyrenees - arrive in the ancient city of
Catalonia, Seu de Urgel. This city is a center of Catholicism in Spain. There is the seat

100
of the bishop, whose diocese and country of Andorra. When you move from La Vella,
you must pass through St. Julia de Loria. Continue through that leads to Barcelona.
After about ten kilometers from the border, in Spain you can get to the target. Urgell
was a pleasant city with the presence of elements of Arab culture. French charm is
still planted here in the ninth century, at a time conqueror Charlemagne. Of course,
the dominating influence of Catalan spiritual and architectural elements, but is
unexpectedly strong accent Mediterranean style.
Since we are in Pas de la Casa only drank tea, on arrival at Urgell go to
breakfast at "Palacin Bar Restaurant." As the morning was already far ahead, we
ordered something stronger breakfast. In this restaurant, it branch called the "Table
of sausage," consisting of ham, Boars Head, sausage, pork loin, black sausage, white
sausage and Catalada. Then, we set out to a short walk around the town. In the
center, on a hill, which rises as if a saddle above the cheerful landscape is a famous
and ancient Cathedral and the ruins Castle King of Aragon? The city is otherwise
possessed precious legacy of Catalan history, secular or religious. Among other
things, there is the famous, new cathedral, with murals and rich interiors, the
museum and within the building.
The Bishop's Palace is nearby. In Bishop's office, we ended up with recording
emissions and take an interview from the bishop. While leaving Urgel, think about
how such a volume of history, from the Roman period and Arabs mark, the many
signs of the latter times, Urgel seems impossible. The right place for the co-ruler of a
country is atypical as Andorra.
In return, we again passed through la Vella, in order to perform several tasks.
In La Vela was raining. The city was all in the haze, and seemed a bit mystical. Again,
we found ourselves in the midst of serpentine. This time road to us is unfolded as we
went down. We reach the town of Pas de Casa, from which we refer to France.
Twenty kilometers before Perpignan, weather improved and the sun came out. We
feel that it is close to the Mediterranean. Perpignan is magical but Urgel elegant!
The first statement is confusing. People speak French, Basque, Corsican and
Breton. The inhabitants of Perpignan daily use many languages and dialects. Its
hundred thousand people probably foreigners lead in state of linguistic alarm!
Ingrown in the area between the Mediterranean and the Pyrenees, all In gradients,
full of palm trees and plane trees, and a fountain with mountain water. Between the
city and Spain, Again they encountered serpentine. The city feels a secret but
enduring love for Catalonia but the fact that they are now part of France becomes
inevitable.
Before dinner, we go to the Palace of the Kings of Majorca. It is dark but I
under the artificial light castle look very impressive. In one of the halls had just held
a concert guitar. Although it is already dark, we see that the palace built in the
Gothic style, with many stone. They tell us that the stone transported from many
sides. Doors, corridors, stairs, armatures and the main towers are all made of cut
stone. It was used ocher stone from Les Fonts, Baixas Blue Sandst. They tell us that
the stone was passed from many sides. Doors, corridors, stairs, armatures and the
main towers are all made of cut stone. Were used ocher stone from Les Fonts, Baixas
Blue, Sandstone, Red Marble from Villefranche-de-Conflent, White and Blue Marble
from Ceret.

101
 After the event, we go to dinner at the restaurant "Casa Sansa." In a lot of an
unusual ambience of the arched ceiling, the walls covered with paintings and many
models of different ships, we spent a pleasant evening. Prawns were juicy and
served with a piquant sauce. Salmon, which we ate for the main course, was
prepared very tasty. The dessert was fantastic Chocolate Cake / Cake with good
vanilla ice cream and raspberry sauce. Wine we drank was - Catalan.

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LITTLE PROMENADE AZURE LANDSCAPES

In spite of the Mediterranean-Latin seductiveness, Nice, whose beauty of houses,

streets, gardens and the environment provokes the senses and stimulate
imaginations , as if it meant that people quickly moving out its. However, the fact is
that the same people many times back at her. As do the well-known artists.
However, this also applies to ordinary tourists!
As I walked trace Scott Fitzgerald, I felt at times like Gatsby. I travel around
the Cote d'Azur and touches her background. I refer in Mougins, Grass, and Saint-
Paul de Vence. In addition, San Rafael, of course. In which Scott Fitzgerald, with
Zelda, wintered. And all the time I feel the smell and taste of Nice in senses. I
remember its colors, smells, meaning. I anticipate sound and taste of lavender and
sunset. Whiles we are breaking through playful green the sky above us flows
directly into the azure sea. And we are on a daily basis as to "stumble" on Picasso. It
is the uniqueness of their fate in France: History and great artistic heritage, from
textbooks, waiting for us around every corner.
In the small town of Mougins, seeking traces of Picasso, I find the Market Women,
Marie Leoneli. In one early afternoon, after the rain, we arrived in Mougins, from
Cannes, with the sole intent to experience an environment that is more 1938th
attracted a great painter. Asking for the house where Picasso lived and painted in a
conversation with Ms. Leonely, market Women of Italian origin, we found out that

103
he was her customer. She showed us a notebook with his orders, the fact of his
former wife. She remembered that in Mougins with Picasso were often and actress
Lucia Bose, choreographer Serge Lifar and toreador Dominguez. In addition, here, as
guests of the great painter, there are Gertrude Stein, Apollinaire, and Matisse ...
Artists who also mentioned in this story about the Fitzgerald residence on the Cote
d'Azur. Otherwise, Picasso died in Mougins near. It was a house-castle with 35
rooms! As if, he was a relative of Salvador Dali! Then, from a small Mougins, we go to
San Rafael. Where is the American novelist Fitzgerald just 1922nd wrote "Tender is
the Night," all looking in Juan Les Pins adjacent to the Cote d'Azur, which was not as
prestigious what now become. Which at the time, between the world wars, visited
“lost generation?" Part of the group was and Ernest Hemingway. Among the novel
"A Farewell to Arms" and "The Sun also rises." This writer is, in fact, Gertrude Stein
traveled to this part of Europe classy.
We then went to town Saint-Paul de Vence. We are located in Saint-Paul de
Vence, in half of the planned route to the South of France. This is a small town in the
inland the Mediterranean, in the lobby of the Alps, with one foot in Provence. It is a
city trapped in the dominance of scents and colors. It makes everything different
here. Life, art, and even death, while in fact it is still a fascinating man to avoid
inevitable! The sun that is the source of that light, though not the only one.
Because, at night, I had the impression that this sky accumulate great ridges amount
of energy, which together with the power of the sun during the day, burst into a
unique solar experience. Serenity that is playing with lavender and sunflower fields
that overwhelms iris green landscape. The walls of the fortress, the color of honey,
bring a picture of the scene at the very limit of disbelief. Nature is here; in the hills
barely move away from the sea, while the all-seeing talents of French and European
Impressionists did not give this piece of world art immortality.

104
SAINT PAUL DE VENCE (1)
GALAXY ART ON THE HILL

This small town in the hinterland of the Côte d'Azur is full of visual wonders. Vence
is beauteous in itself. This place is geographically and architecturally playful.
However, around this place there are many errors and mystification. Many make
mistakes and placing this town directly on the Cote d'Azur. Thus, for example,
one newspaper delivers news, which says '' July 1969 Witold Gombrowicz died in
Vence on the French Cote d'Azur''. This city definitely possessed artistic works
actually located 18 kilometers from Nice. Located In the nearby hills. In the
Provencal Alps. Interesting, on the fact, that this place were one of nine towns in
France with the name of Saint Paul (Paul). Medieval castle stretched between two
deep valleys, to clear the remains of the walls, expressive elevated seems a bit as if it
were latter artists finished the with color and paint brushes. Unreal dreamy even in
the day that rain or mist meets with the sfumato.
This is an alpine village, in all seasons and in all weathers, many tourists,
which is simply pushed through the narrow streets inside the walls. Interestingly,
but not surprisingly, close to San Paul de Vence there for 2-3 similar to the small
town in which, swells painting that was on the verge of dilettantism. Sometimes this
city acting as small oasis of kitsch and populism. However, this amateur workshop
has some charm. So do not trash kitsch but, if such a thing is possible to vary. And in
France seems acceptable and bad taste. However, then let's have some history: The

105
first fort was a 13th century, in the 16th century village government domination
from nearby Grasse, and then Saint Paul de Vence becomes Royal Village. In the mid
1537th, Francis I built the ultimate rampart wall around the place, why several
hundred houses had to demolished. Safety is never without victims! However when
Vence emerged from the Middle Ages the city has devoted himself to high art,
especially painting, so it is today in third place in France, by the number of visitors,
of all related destinations. After Versailles and Saint-Michel, this is a village, with the
great painter galaxy in the eye. Wonder of the world. They say, and I am still
convinced that the next day, when the fog dispersed over the hills, which smell like
the Mediterranean, that the secret attractiveness of the landscape is located in an
unusual light. The one that was simply hypnotized Renoir, Chagall, Matisse, Van
Gogh and others; I must mention that by the end of this postcard. Light, the sun
actually, whose rays play with fields of lavender and sunflowers, which caresses the
green valleys and the honey-colored walls. The burglaries heavenly-color is actually
attracted here best minds and talents.
Later everything was easier, or perhaps more difficult: artists of all races and
classes, techniques and poetics were coming here, only fifteen minutes away from
the glamorous Cannes and Nice beaches. Many curious people come to worship the
great painter but a little of those who want to overcome and surpass.
Residents of Saint Paul de Vence remain to be good hosts. In addition, they
were the merchants. And caterers. In addition to the narrow, colorful, sloping and
steep streets, old stone houses, fountains and squares, bridges and statues, Vence is
full of galleries, studios and exhibitions in the open. Daily life in sunny weather is
actually a real performance in which all participate. However, the two institutions
compete the honorary first place this artistic village. The first is the famous, old,
deserving Hotel Colombe d' Or'''' who since 1916. host, now very well established,
visual artists, who in the old days, when the First World War close their bills, food,
drinks, accommodation, usually paired with paintings, drawings and sketches.
Evidence for this can found today on the walls of this luxury hotel. The former
owner had a vision. That is why I could on the walls of this small hotel to see the
works of the above mentioned artists, as well as Braque, Picasso, Miro, Soti, Diffie,
Utrilo, Modigliani.
Then the Maeght Foundation, undoubtedly the most famous temple of
modern art. Created will pair Maeght, will remain the most recognizable example of
patrons share in the service of culture.
In the hills, in place, which is a village, near the Côte d'Azur, there is a lively art
warehouse. French is not a lot of glamor to the coast. Moreover, your hinterland
settled with wonders. On top of a settled fragrant Grasse, while the other resides
sophisticated St. Paul de Vence! To die of beauty, or perhaps better to say, to live
with beauty.

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SAINT PAUL DE VENCE (2)
FOUNDATION MAEGHT
GOOD PLACE FOR LIVING AND PAINTING

I'm still on a trip to St. Paul De Vence. About noon, we dropped at Le Cafe de
la Place, on refreshments. We ordered coffee and a ham sandwich. Just enough to
endure it a late lunch at the hotel. Over a cup, looking at Vence their lives Friday. I
mean, how this village long is a very strange place. Come therefore many people to
work, and enjoy. However, behold, irony, and to die! A list of those known and great
personalities, who died in Vence, often in his sanitarium, is impressive. In addition,
it is very sound. Henri Matisse, Witold Gomrovič, David Herbert Lawrence. For those
who have forgotten, this Englishman wrote, in his time '' infamous'' novel '' Lady
Chatterley's Lover.'' Moreover, of course, there was the Marc Chagall. Russian
painter, whose sky is filled with creatures and scenes that confuse and wonder. Over
whose grave probably plays an imaginary violinist from Vitebsk. That the birth,
marriage and funerals! Walter Benjamin, the philosopher who first believed in
communism, then tried to understand socialism, and yet penetrated deeply into the
essence of Modern Art, 1931. He also was in Vence. He enjoyed the beauty of the
stone and its silent remembrance. Perhaps he was running away from some family
problems. He watched as created the art of the new Europe. He saw to take pictures
of Picasso and Matisse. Lawrence did not wait. He had to die 1930th.

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In the end, understand: greats come here to inspire by the beauty of the landscape.
To enjoy in this. In addition, the death of their only - happen. Here, the beauty of the
colors, and aroma sunlight!
I mentioned Picasso and Matisse, two great artists, rivals and associates.
They met in this place. In Saint Paul de Vence. Actually, in 1948. Picasso is joining
seriously ill Matisse, here in the south of France, helping him finish the last act - the
decoration of the chapel in Vence. Although he did not attend the funeral of Matisse
(1954), Picasso expressed his respect towards the artist 20 years later, so it was a
little before his own death 1973rd painted, one of the "old men" who sits (at the
Romanian blouse, any wearing Matisse). What was his way to pray for the repose of
the soul his great rival but friend!
This chapel having all the features Matisse Fauvism located almost in the
middle of the main artistic and tourist routes in Vence. The road leading from
medieval core, specifically from the hotel '' Colombe d' or'' where begins the
progression of visual arts here in the south of France. In addition, ends in an ultra-
modern palace of „Maeght Art Foundation''. What is the logical extension of the
exclusive painter-sculptor wonders in these hills. On the recommendation of the
painter Joan Miró, in 1960. the famous Spanish design Jose - Luis Sert raised a
modern, functional and efficient building designed, intended for storage, display and
create works of art first class. Fully integrated into the spacious Mediterranean
garden. This complex, designed for modern аrt is actually Museum installed in the
Nature. Inside and outside this building looks as a pure provocation surface, colors,
materials, acoustics, optics. Simply, it is the architectural and artistic creative
metaphysics. Sert “Maeght” is a real home for modern times and the art of modern
times! In this museum are exhibited works of Miro, Braque, Chagall, Calder, Bonar,
Dibufe, and Sulanž. And, of course Matisse.
The road from the Charles de Gaulle street, where the hotel's Colombe d'Or'',
to the famous and relocated a few kilometers Foundation ''Maeght“ leading stone
bridges, passing by the fountain and greenery growing between the plates marble.
Always congested with the visitors. Sometimes you intercept the manufacturers
numerous trade and amateur visual records, copies and imitations. On the way, we
pass by many galleries and boutiques that sell popular and populist diligence. Here
in Saint Paul de Vence, thousand flowers bloom, but they are easy to recognize that
smell ...About the flowers wrote Prevert Jacques and sang his songs Yves Montand.
There. For the whole world.

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PORT VENDRES,
THE LANDING FOR BIG SHIPS

I arrived in Port Vendres up out of curiosity. I admit and the free afternoon to
indicate that we canceled because of an interview. I heard that the deepest port in
this part Mediterranean. Cruiser here often retained. Port Vendres is the
penultimate'' station'' to the border with Spain, the settlement dating back to Greek
times (called Portus Veneris), later conquered by the Gaul's. It is a port, a relatively
small but with a depth of up to 5o meters. Thanks to the depth of the sea, has always
been a goal of large ships. It is very important to communicate with Africa. With the
old fortress which dominates the place. Because of his, a strategically important
position, many times it changed owners. While Louis XVI finds docks and get a look
that is closest to the final. A city that has lived for centuries of warfare, sheep,
fishing, port services, today upgraded rests on tourism services. Restaurants,
excursions to the Pyrenees, visitors memorials Salvador Dali, national parks nearby,
the original studio tours fauvism painting school - these are only fragments of what
Port Vendres offers. It should said that besides being a great fit here tourist boat,
Port Vendres s prestigious anchorages yachts, luxury yachts and boats of all kinds.
However, of all this there was almost nothing, because I suddenly fell into a
whirlpool of incredible fish market. In addition, there I spent almost all the time a
short stay in Port Vendres. With good reason: the best of raw materials are close at
hand, as the market is among the largest in the western Mediterranean. Vans and
Lorries come to go, and the fishing fleet based in the port has docked just a quay
away.

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 Along two walls, there are shelving lined with seafood delicacies, condiments
and wines. There are countering with fresh shellfish and prepared dishes. Live
lobsters and langoustine is from the old tanks out. Just outside the entrance, there's
a pavilion dedicated to fresh fish of innumerable species. It is the seafood shoppers'
delight. The focal point for shoppers sampling as well as snack seekers is a pub-
height counter toward the back of the retail shop. Here, you rub shoulders with the
real stuff: the waiters are seafood workers, wearing rubber boots and waterproof
aprons. They speed back and forth, opening oysters, mussels cleaning and serving
customers at the counter. Many are linguistically capable, speaking Catalan, English
and other languages, besides French.
The menu of reasonably priced small dishes is a single A 4 sheet, printed
both sides, encased in plastic, oysters, shellfish and crustaceans on one side, tapas
and wines on the other. Everything on the menu is available on the shelves and
counters in the shop; few counter customers leave without buying something to
take home. To navigate to the market, first find the memorial obelisk at the head of
the old part of the port. On your left is the church and quays for fishing, customs,
and rescue and pilot boats. Therefore, we stayed on the fish market, and then we
only have a little time for lunch at a restaurant called "La Cote Vermeile". The
pleasant ambience in that was an exquisite meal with a view of the harbor. What is
the torque sounded like the one in Marseilles. The sound of cranes ... Locals say that
if you have to do some kind of work on your boat, the marina Port Vendres has a
travel-lift for boats up to 127 tons. We did not have a boat. That is why we, on this
trip, with a train back to Perpignan...

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AVIGNON DATES LAWRENCE DURRELL

The city of Avignon, hardly noticeably but inevitably, experiencing Modernity

with the enigmatic spasm of the former alternative papal city. Because, those who
sing the optional "Sur Le Pont d'Avignon," carry somewhere in the collective
memory of awareness, that were once the reserve position "of the Catholic
emperors" - Popes. Such stretched religious map, between sin and repentance, I felt
the "Avignon Quintet" by Lawrence Durrell. The English writer in this series of five
novels (Sebastian - Monsieur - Kvinks - Livia or buried alive - Constance), which he
wrote partly in Avignon, admittedly more in a nearby Sommieres, entered, other
than inclination to phantasmagoria, cultural erudition and hypertrophy of sensory
experience of the world, and obsessive visible incentive of the city of Avignon.
This is a settlement that survived the centuries within the walls, which are
still 4 kilometers long. The psychological, religious and urban specialty manifested
through the eminent Theater Festival, which held since 1947, usually within the
"Pope's walls” Festival d'Avignon as prominent tangent has artistic, philosophical
and metaphysical discussion with all kinds' taboos and religious, dramatic, musical
or ethical authority. What is Jean Vilar has had imposed a playwright and founder of
the festival, who was a friend of author famous “Alexandria Quartet," Lawrence
Durrell, who in 1961. Lose the battle for the Nobel Prize of the Yugoslav writer Ivo
Andric. Durrell, who in fact be prematurely post-modernist, literary Salvador Dali, in
Provence, and Avignon Sommieres, with its obsessive themes, Mediterranean and

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African storyline and fate, adds more European historical plots, war, aristocratic
puzzles. In this novelistic achievement has again, sexual and emotional labyrinths, as
a connoisseur of his work and life, defined as a kind of "writing of madness." In that,
city of Avignon is not innocent. Therefore, it is now Urbis who lives under seven
corp. Everyday mysteries confronting their own passions with the power of Catholic
dogma. Passing by church of Notre Dame, observe how the gothic papal palace
mapped to it. Both have similar height so that tomorrow morning will be the other
way around. At the time, it seemed to me that the interstitial see it picture of
Picasso's Les Demoiselles d'Avignon. However, a city organizes theater festival!
Because nothing is unusual when I to square found Marina Abramovic, it proves
that, the influence of African art on Picasso is completely normal.
Rhône River flowed under the bridge Saint-Beneze, followed by a children's
choir. Unbearable heat, summer garden, strung one after the other column, full.
Jugglers and entertainers have flooded a huge square. There are numerous
costumed actors drawing audiences to their shows. In the company of Constance, He
did not die in 1990. Lawrence Durrell would today, here in Avignon, correct their
"Avignon Quintet." During this time, bells haunted demons! Moreover, Tatiana, my
French girlfriend, is not present even in his hometown.

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A SMALL TOWN FULL OF ART

This little town, Saint-Paul-de-Vence, a village is actually located in the

ambiance of a relatively well-preserved medieval fortress, and local habitats he
formed that through the centuries. However, today there is something else here
which characterized this town and differentiates it from similar. Almost maritime
atmosphere, very strong in his close defaulting, and a touch of Provence and the
south, which flows through the low of the Alps, created the climate that incredible
melange of inspiration to provoke a kind of Eros and Thanatos, which exists in the
nature.
“Invasions” of heavenly colors led in Vence and the surrounding area more
than a century of the greatest minds and talents of Europe and the world. Although.
these two properties are not sometimes complementary! First arrived
representatives of Impressionism. Later comes and writers, D. H. Lawrence. And for
him Gombrowicz. Then there was all the easier. And maybe there were different?
Because, after a great genius, Monet and Renoir, primarily because Picasso is
nowhere long kept, and Mathis is forever desiring for something more exotic,
coming artists of all classes, races and art styles became the unstoppable. In this

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artistic story later became involved and many sightseers and tourists. Even those
who are not fans but only dilettantes.
Former owner of the local hotel Colombe d'Or'' good surmised that his inexpensive
or almost free room and food in his house, for unstoppable still unknown painters,
will one day become very profitable. Testify about that are the canvas by Monet,
Renoir, Braque, Picasso, Miro, Soti, Diffie, Utrilo, Modigliani, and Matisse ... All of
them, side-by-side, their valuable work, and this small hotel in France turned into an
incredibly large art warehouse. The innkeeper, as Paul Roux, ambitious, and as an
artist, it's just in your hotel into what it would say today - art colony. He thus
indirectly and unconsciously entered history as a patron of art. His successors
continued this tradition, unfortunately, with the less fortunate, probably because it
is smaller future major artists, who are ready for the adventure of life and art. '' In
the local at the “Colombe d'Or'', in Vence, overlooking the Mediterranean and
Provence, the home side continues this combination of hotel and art colonies.
Fifteen minutes from the famous Promenade des Anglais in Nice, or just
about ten minutes more, right from walking on La Croisette in Cannes, were no
obstacles to the possibilities of insight and even participate in various activities of
this famous painting empire. Unknown painters and tourists, of all nations, races
and ages, coming daily to the Vence to follow the works of the great European art.
However, it is not negligible number of people who come to this place proclaimed by
the effrontery to celebrate himself as a painter. At least join the crowd here that is
otherwise amazing. We set out to go to a place Gras. It is a settlement two of the
three hills remote northwest. The right crater smells like Gallic successors have
always been maddening Europe. The French cans be expected that: just ten
kilometers from the Côte d'Azur, on the mild slopes the Alps, we have fallen in real
epicenter scented galaxy. And, Fragonard's palette.

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THE ARENA AND A DROP OF SPANISH BLOOD

Cruising by environment River Rhone, inhaling the smell of the wind and the
sky of Provence, all the time being in the south of France, in the language Provencal,
who was immortalized by Frederic Mistral, bathed in the colors of Van Gogh,
Picasso, Cézanne, Gauguin and of another, has arrived in Nimes. The city where he
was born Alphonse Daudet, author of many realistic (and naturalistic) works.
Breakfast in the restaurant looks a little bit unusual, it would be in a retro style with
a lot of intense colors, "The Vintage," he was very pleasant and inexpensive. As
welcome.
At first glance, it seemed to me that here, in Nimes, the concentration of
buildings from Roman times considerable. The visual impression soon confirmed
through discussion with colleagues from French newspapers. They told me that the
city Nimes had an estimated population of 60,000 in the time of Augustus. Augustus
gave the town a ring of ramparts six kilometers long, reinforced by fourteen towers;
two gates remain today: the Port Augusta and the Porte de France. An aqueduct
built to bring water from the hills to the north. While it was, an important Roman
colony named Nemesis. From then until now, by Nimes planted huge quantity of
remaining historic material culture and artifacts. The most famous feature of the
town is The Arena of Nimes, which is actually a Roman amphitheater built around
70 AD, it remodeled in 1863 to serve as a bullring. By size and preservation,
although there are those that are not agreeing with the constant need to renew the
facility, this arena is at the top of Roman remains. They used to be in the

115
amphitheater of the gladiators fought to win, or to favor the audience, and for his
own life. That has long gone. Of 19 century, this was the site of the bullfight. Here
residents Nimes, but also numerous tourists can experience the mass ecstasy.
Catharsis or something less noble, exploding like a volcano, publicly and noisily
when spilled drop of blood of bulls, or bullfighter. With one of the fighters, soldiers
or contractors mostly Spaniards, and from there in the title of this record from
Nimes and this drop of Spanish blood, which is a Serbian writer Miloš Crnjanski
incorporated into his novel of the same name.
I was walking one morning for the Arena. Feast with the bulls been planned
for the end of the week, but the amphitheater was full of onlookers, tourists and
local. Some were walking on the ground, the sand waiting bulls and bullfighters,
others climbed by stairs and platforms. Go into the tower and observation deck.
There were those who were in the restaurant at the top of the Arena, where
watching crowd that moves in depth. I remembered Ernest Hemingway. Big fan of
bullfighting and even greater writer, Ernest Hemingway, not once come to the
bullring in Nimes, because from Madrid, where he lived in 1959. would not ''to
embark on a long journey that had attended a bullfight in which
participate bulls which short horns''. Because he knew that, the rules in Nimes do
not allow the killing of bulls and serious wounded Toreros in the arena. However,
his favorite Luis Miguel and Antonio Domingo Ordonjes triumphed in the Arena: the
bull cut your ears! As a well-deserved trophy. Hemingway was in Nimes before,
several times, coming. He loved this city. Because of the Arena, bulls and
bullfighters. However, he enjoyed it and the red-hot and noisy atmosphere in the
stands and in the city.
I found out that Arena has 16,000 season tickets. It's only Monday and it is
obvious that they have started the Festival days. Music from all over just
overflowing the streets, with juggling - circus - dance stunts. All, however, clearly
labeled with "Feria de Nîmes,” which is a worldwide attraction. Indeed, it worth to
be found in this city between 5 May and 30 June. Fortunately, I did. And there was
not a drop of Spanish blood! I did not too enjoy in stabbing the Bulls and wounding
toreador. I find it more exciting was fleeing before a crowd of bulls in Pamplona!
I thought, at the end of the chase, screaming and yelling with large bulls and
model type bullfighters, how I more love that I was there when they are filming their
commercials Arena British rock band "Dire straits," German Industrial Metal group
"Rammstein" and American Heavy Metal band "Metallica."
In the afternoon, I went to see the Pont du Gard (Bridge of the Garde). An ancient
Roman aqueduct bridge crosses the Gardon River in Vers-Pont-du-Gardner Remoulins. It
is part of the Nimes aqueduct, a 50 km-long structure built by the Romans to carry water
from a spring at Uzès to the Roman colony of Nemausus. I'm standing in the valley
several hundred meters away, and I admire what the ancient conquerors of the world have
managed to build. In this, already yellowed stone, which is crucified between the ages
has hidden wisdom and skills that span our ironic realization that the Roman Empire still
created by sword and fire. However, here in Nimes and the archaeological remains of
their architecture. And not just wars.
Grasse

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GRASSE
FRAGONARD IN THE HOMELAND OF SCENTS

In the French town of Grass was spent winter and Napoleon's sister. Pauline
Bonaparte, naturally, is not the most important facts in the memory of the city. She
maybe of the most intriguing guests and preoccupies me because, while in the old
part Grasse way through the narrow streets, intersections and unexpected vaulted
squares. I think of it, about which there is a rumor. This primarily talks about her
unbelievable beauty. Moreover, out is incredible dedication to his brother -
Napoleon. The only thing that was the only equation that loves was her hatred
towards Josephine, Creole seductive dark eyes that overclouded sense that
Bonaparte. Which that is March 1815 and personally went through Gras, probably
on the way to ultimate defeat.
He had no time to rest. Therefore, Napoleon was through a small town just
rush by. For warriors, is only important fight! In addition, those sometimes decide to
make love! And, this city Gras, but the four centuries sail through a sea of fragrance.
Meek and lowly. Intoxicated with cups of pollen and spices. Full of history and the
city it is an amazing story. Great conqueror did not come by the house to the city to
look at early works, Jean-Honorees Fragonard, French Rococo painter and
printmaker, born in this city 1732. Him but could not meet in Grasse, because he
was already dead in Paris in 1806. That still takes a break in this fragrant hiding
place, probably hesitant to stand in front of monumental historical canvases of
Fragonard, trying to reach peripheral vision to love and erotic mischief on the

117
canvases of the painter's mature phase. Which is still standing, somewhat isolated,
in the museum of perfumery and perfumed soap? In the building, where his father of
the famous painter had a workshop for making and perfuming gloves, and
equipment for making scented soap was established unique museums gorgeous
fragrance, and at the same time as the French Rococo painting gallery.
In addition, Queen Victoria stayed in this landscape. She's not like black
funerals; London was because at the time of her funeral was covered in purple and
white. She and Pauline, before that, spent a couple of winters in this pleasant town,
but each of them, in their eras. One in Rothschild's palace, and the other at the Grand
Hotel. In whose immediate closeness later lived and our Prince Pavle
Karadjordjevic. Moreover, I almost forgot, near Grasse, in a mountain village, 1963.
Years, has died, another queen. Uncrown! Queen of chanson Edith Piaf. For one day
overtake his friend - Jean Cocteau.

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COLLIOURE
CITY OF RED PYRENEAN STONE

The road leads us back to the sea. We're going to P yrenees-Oriental's region,
the Riviera south of France. In return us. Around us were alternately Pyrenees and
the Mediterranean, where here, I remember, called'' The Big Blue''. From Spain, we
are only a few kilometers stepped into France. Behind us are Salvador Dali and
Walter Benjamin, and Portlliga, Cadaqués, Figueres and Port Bou. Soon we will
Roussillon wines, in which are the center of the wine-growing southern regions.
Over Banuls-sur-Mer, birthplace of the famous French sculptor Aristide Maya,
whose nude female figures personify Mediterranean - the ancient sensuality:
Traveling areas that covered with vineyards and bush, inhaling the intense scent of
the sea. Soon we reach the town of Collioure, who once had the good fortune not to
stay forever, in the anonymity of the average fishing villages; it only just enjoys the
thrilling sunsets and mildly bored.
In it, in fact, one day, at the beginning of the last century, a man named burst
Henri Matisse and peace was over. Arrival Fauvism and their wild'' painting'', as this
artistic movement characterized then averse to this new art movement art critic,
everything changed. Village, people, mores. Some witty contemporaries wrote that
during the'' invasion Fauvism“, because in Collioure acted and is a kind of art school
supporters, and the nature that surrounds the town was intense and full of fiery
color, as if fleeing the paintings of Matisse, Darren and others. In preparation for

119
Collioure, which are the only other Fauves Pictures, legends and tourist frenzy, with
truly inspiring natural beauty, the casual pubs, coffee shops and friendly inns, we
are refreshed with Southern Wines and by the dense aromatic honey. All appeared
to be a happy trip through the South of France!
Then we have, in the distance, saw Collioure. First - the outlines of the fort,
with whom during his stay in the town, learned the following: The Château Royal de
Collioure (residents, according Catalan language called Castell de Reial Cotlliure) is a
massive French royal castle, a few kilometers north of the Spanish border in the
French department of Pyrénées-Orientales. Architectural completely changed from
the original port is very important at the time of the Greeks and Phoenicians, after
Visigoths and Saracens. In the Carolingian period, this picturesque town became a
military stronghold.
1659. Collioure has definitely returned to France. Then the village centuries
visited; of traders, travelers, invaders, artists because it offered good food, wine and
fish, simple beauty, quiet and affordable beach. However, all these events have been,
to show up Fauves, a story of local interest.
This town-village is actually centuries seemed very simple: On one side of the
church, on the other royal fortress from the 12th century. Between collated all very
ordinary and similar to other coastal habitats in the Franco-Spanish south.
Therefore, all for 1905 when arriving Mathis, Darren and Fauvism. Then everything
changed, and the new and changed image of the city is to this day. It changes
everything but the red stone in which it made almost all the city. It is interesting that
is, already renowned in Paris but also very challenged Henri Matisse in Collioure
tiny and come from very prosaic and practical reasons: life in the south of France
was much cheaper than in the capital. The beauty of nature, plenty of light, the
hospitality of the locals - they are all later discoveries and insights.

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COLLIOURE 2
WHERE FRANCE CONNECTING WITH SPAIN

Here they meet and overlap between the two cultures, French and Spanish.
Because the daily life of an intersection between dissimilar. So with the events: the
Catalan culture of Southern France remains very popular in the town of Collioure
and this is evident in the numerous spring and fall Catalan folklore festivals that
take place on the weekends of April and May, and again in September. This is when
you can the locals dressed in traditional clothing. It is a time of music, good food and
festivities. Those who have long been organizing this festival as it had in mind the
recent statement Matisse - as in this landscape the colors sing, without any way of
new rules and restrictions, this event today is the festival of music that combines
archaic schoolmarm's, versatility, power and tone improvisation and instruments.
In a city scattered along the Mediterranean, where they drink good wine, and with
all sides you observe intense canvases Matisse. In addition, Darren, to a lesser
extent. Here is Fauvism alive, very much. Had in mind the recent statement Matisse -
as in this landscape the colors sing, without any way of new rules and restrictions,
this event today is the festival of music that combines archaic schoolmarm's,
versatility, power and tone improvisation and instruments.
In a city scattered along the Mediterranean, where they drink good wine, and with
all sides you observe intense canvases Matisse.

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 The town Collioure seemingly everything flows harmoniously although
ethnic and cultural strata of life is extremely complex. They are historically more
than daily. The only thing there is undoubtedly a fact that this is the land of
Catalonia. Because everything else is debatable. Collioure was taken in 1642 by the
French troops of Maréchal de la Meilleraye. A decade later, the 1659 Treaty of the
Pyrenees officially surrendered the town to France. Because of its strategic
importance, the military engineer Vauban improved the town's fortifications, the
Château Royal de Collioure and the Fort Saint-Elme stronghold, during the reign of
Louis XIV. Nevertheless, Collioure besieged and occupied by the Spanish troops in
1793, marking the last Spanish attempt to take the city.
Not all this chaos statehood stills feels in this city of intense color, smell and
taste. Here we sing, dance, eat and drink. In addition, sometimes taking pictures!
Collioure considered a true center of the "Cote Vermeille" due to the vermilion color
of the water. You can follow the "Chemin de Fauvism," a self-guided path of the
artists that takes you around the town with reproductions of famous paintings by
Matisse and Derain at the very spots where they set up their easels. It said that
Matisse would still recognize the red roofs, the green shutters, and the sailboats
bobbing in the harbor glittering in the sunlight.
Fish, wine, and dessert exclusivity extremely suitable in this frame of history, a
specific environment - Collioure is considered a true center of the "Cote Vermeille"
due to the color of the vermilion waters, and southern beauty. Because, as it said,
that Matisse would still recognize the red roofs, the green shutters, and the sailboats
bobbing in the harbor glittering in the sunlight.

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WINTER TRIP FROM CANNES TO ANTIBES

When I moved from Cannes to Antibes, I hoped that the sailboat anchored off
Croisette not just a metaphor for all that I will see her in this azure landscape. It was
an impressive ship. The real wood made, with sails, canvas and powerful. The only
thing, I had a dilemma about guns, whether real or just an imitation? However, the
whole thing was nothing but outstanding set design of the film Roman Polanski's ''
Pirates''. Atypical for this directory. And a little bit mediocre. In which, however,
Matthew Walter, as usual, is brilliant. Logically, in which, as Khan, for decades
engaged in showing glamor to the silver screen, stage turns into almost an actual
event. For tourists in all seasons.
The event is actually a sailing ship; the next day went on a tour of the Cote
d'Azur and mentioned that he would even go straight to Africa. It was not verified,
but the fact that African hold the Riviera street selling trinkets not be checked. That
was obvious. I still went to Antibes. There was real fortress. And many appealing
things. In fact, even on the descent from the main road, overlooking the harbor
Antibes old town, I saw something big, rocky and marked by a strong recognizable.
The fortress, which for centuries has protected this once respected poet, irresistibly
reminded me of Petrovaradin monument. In Novi Sad. Almost everything is the
same. However, here is less. A solid structure, partly built on the foundations of
similar buildings from the Roman period, now known as the Fort Carrre fortress,
designed and built a marquis Sabastien Vauban. In the 17th century. This eminent

123
marshal and builder did more than 300 fortifications, mainly in France. It was
important to me as I looked out of the fort towards Cap d'Antibe.
Two urban districts, Sophia Antipolice and Juan la Pen, are another story. The
first town, named after the original, early ancient settlement, represents the center
of a very sophisticated technological production facility. There is a French version of
'' Silicon Valley'', like the one in the U.S., but also significant'' pharmaceutical factory
„Welkom' 'which is the first in the world started producing medications that slow
AIDS. Juan la Pen, however, particularly because of its exclusivity tourist, sometimes
inducing visitors to forget even the name of the city that precedes it - Antibes. His
sleepless nights in the casino, discos, clubs, festivals: Oldest jazz in La Peñes Juan,
''Music in the heart, to the world-famous underwater film festivals, and of course of
those events of everyday living character, life takes place here on the seesaw
between tenderness and passion. There are those who mention the word - madness
of enjoyment! Probably that's why Picasso, Green, Monet, Prevert gladly stayed on
this Mediterranean reef.
In return, however, it was still March, when winds from the Gulf of Genoa
made mistral, with turntable on top of a hill and I looked away over an azure sea.
This sea on that day had a brown and gray speckled appearance and was barely
glowed under the sun. I stopped the car on another windy bend over the sea. Sea
surfaces like mud, until the end of sight, because of the wind, current, blowing from
the land, so that they can see only the backside, "back" of each wave. Strange sight. I
tried to remember those former colors: blue hammer forged under the sun.
Mediterranean blue once had its own variation: the clean water of the Adriatic Sea,
the Aegean color with a hint of Homer's wine ... And now, all in color bog. The water
was brown in color. The shores are very steep acted as if they had lost their beach.
Rocky hills faded and everything looked abandoned. I felt like in the desert.
However, winter and bad weather are a rare opportunity to learn about the hidden
and not less precious heritage of this part of the Mediterranean. Because, during the
summer that dedicated to enjoy and have fun, there is no time for museums, gallery,
history...

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LITTLE PROMENADE AZURE LANDSCAPES

Nice city, despite its Mediterranean-Latin seductiveness, the beauty of their

environment, that provokes the senses and memory, it seems like a city that is
destined to people from his provisionally leaving. And the returning. As a famous
work. Just as the famous, rich or talented work! However, this also applies to
ordinary tourists!
As I walked trace Scott Fitzgerald, I felt at times like Gatsby. Cruising the area
adjoining the Côte d'Azur: Mougins, Grass, and Saint-Paul de Vence. And San Rafael,
of course. In which Scott Fitzgerald, with Zelda, wintered. And all the time we
Nice town feel in the nostrils. Its colors, smells, meaning. Sound and taste of
lavender and sunset. While we traveled soar greenery, the sky above us flows
directly into the azure sea. Moreover, we are on a daily basis as to "stumble" on
Picasso. It is the uniqueness of their fate in France: History and great artistic
heritage, from textbooks, waiting for us around every corner.
In the small town of Mougins, seeking traces of Picasso, I find the Market Women,
Marie Leoneli. In one early afternoon, after the rain, we arrived in Mougins, from
Cannes, with the sole intent to experience an environment that is more 1938th
attracted a great painter. By following the itinerary of which will again follow
Fitzgerald. Asking for the house where Picasso lived and painted in a conversation
with Ms. Leoneli Market Women of Italian origin, we found out that he was her

125
customer. She showed us a notebook with his orders, the fact of his former wife. She
remembered that in Mougins with Picasso were often and actress Lucia Bose,
choreographer Serge Lifar and toreador Dominguez. And here, as guests of the great
painter, came Gertrude Stein, Apollinaire, and Matisse ... Artists who mentioned in
this story about the Fitzgerald residence on Azure. Otherwise, Picasso died in
Mougins near. In a villa with 35 rooms! As if, he was a relative of Salvador Dali!
Then, from a small Mougins, we go to San Rafael. Where is the American novelist
Fitzgerald just 1922nd wrote "Tender is the Night," all looking in Juan Les Pins
adjacent to the Cote d'Azur, which was not as prestigious as it is a today. Which at
the time, between the world wars, visited “lost generation?" In this group of writers
were entered and Hemingway. To which belonged and Hemingway. Among the
novel "A Farewell to Arms" and "The Sun also rises." This writer is, in fact, Gertrude
Stein traveled to this part of Europe classy.
We then went to town Saint-Paul de Vence. We are here, in Saint-Paul de
Vence, in half of the planned route to the South of France, a small town in the inland
the Mediterranean, in the lobby of the Alps, with one foot in Provence, besides the
dominant aroma and light. It makes everything different here. Life, art, and even
death, while in fact it is still a fascinating man to avoid inevitable! The sun that is the
source of that light, though not the only one.
Because at night I had the impression that this huge sky, at night, stored in an
enormous number of energies, which interferes with the fluid in the solar daily
unrepeatable. Serenity that is playing with lavender and sunflower fields that
overwhelms iris green landscape. While the walls of the medieval fortress, honey
color, image lead to the border of naturalness. Nature is here; in the hills barely
move away from the sea, while the all-seeing talents of French and European
Impressionists did not give this piece of world art immortality

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NORMANDY: IN THE WAKE OF MARCEL PROUST

I went for a very unusual Lion morning. So a little bit exciting, because last
night I became aware that was in the middle region of Beaujolais. Wine, of course.
We set off, luckily the bus. First, the small town in Normandy, Deauville. Resorts that
I have met with Goran Tribuson, Croatian storyteller, and his work, the novel
"Russian Roulette," for which I worked dramatization and that led me to the
Tribuson. Now I intend to Cabourg, place in Normandy. Not far from Deauville,
which is trendy known? Because casinos. Actually, I decided to live regard the place
was Marcel Proust in his quest for the lost time produced in Baalbek. Therefore, it
permanently marked.
I just say me decided to go there, while my friends were convinced to ride
into the realm of Calvados. What they really do not, because it was inaccurate
Cabourg, alias Baalbek, located in the district of Calvados. Namespace associated
with apple brandy. It is not any different objectives this time stripped unexpected
enthusiasm. Because, so it must have been after the adventure began by being lost in
Lyon beautiful Tatiana, a native of Avignon. Or being she still, perhaps, left us.
However, this trip to Normandy took place in the sign of women's writing: Cabourg,
nearly Margaret greeted us Duras. The writer of my favorite film "Last Year at
Marienbad." In fact, in this town it was in the afterworld of his novel, "Lover," which
has definitely become a star of world literature.
That novel, in Lyons, gave me to read Tatiana. Especially underlining the
sentence: "Very early in my life, it become too late" - because I went to Normandy.

127
Said exactly Margaret Duras, who did not wait for us to Cabourg, at "Grand," which,
however, stood a large painting of a young Proust. In this town, where he is an
enduring icon. While Ms. Duras who barely remembers. Although the nineties of the
last century, much closer. Her room at the "Roches Noires" in which she lived, not
advertised as a hotel "Grand" in which he lived Proust.
Normandy. Beaches. Sand. Windy. The landscape forever marked "the longest day!"
While I walk along the "Promenade Marcel Proust," in Cabourg, with the English
Channel arriving waves. The sea is wavy. And, grayish. The sun breaks through the
yellow-gray horizon. From a distance, from Deauville, I see three figures: Odette,
Albertine and Swann'. I hear someone play "Moderato cantabile" chansonier Arsen
Dedic. Tatyana The music reminded me that I had to go back to a Tatjana book that I
borrowed, "Lover", Magaret Duras!

128
CHATEAU IN THE HOMELAND OF TARTARIN
TARASCON

As I enter the real, but at the same time imaginary Tarascon, under skies of
southern France, which is sliding towards Spain, and a yellow sun at Van Gogh - all
we seem possible. Tarascon look around the old town, in the outlook of gardens,
houses, squares, in the faces of passers recognize Tartarin Tarascon, which
combines Don Quixote and Sancho Panza. As I see it the conceited world travelers
which is in reality, and Marseille was too far away. For years he visited the
neighboring town just Beaucaire, in the months when the bridge was not damaged
Rhone river. I'm coming from the papal city of Avignon, with the original intention
of seeing the famous Chateau de Tarascon whose forms found on many postcards
that are sent from the South of France.
Standing on the edge of the Rhone, defended the castle of Tarascon excess
possessions of the counts of Provence. Including a farmyard before the castle itself,
the new building, built by Louis II of Anjou from 1400 and ended half a century by
King René, the palace is as much as the fortress with high walls naked and almost
blind concealing the refined setting of stately home and the central courtyard.
I walk along the coast Rhone, which flows past the mighty ancient fortified building.
I looked at the walls. Gives all the power and stability. The walls are high and
mighty. I feel some gothic irreducible. Spikes and towers aspire to heaven. Stone,

129
however, was not gray, but the color of copper chamber. And, maybe it's all because
of southern light. Indeed, how to change the daylight, the stone face of the city
changes its complexion: in the evening it was all orange, while the castle on the
morning dive appeared all bathed in milky haze.
In Tarascon I, perhaps more than the castle, and I came guided by literary
footsteps of the famous French writer Alphonse Daudet. The one who created the
famous comic character of the alleged travel writer Tartarin Tarascon. Bearing in
mind that was Alphonse Daudet its literature created by'' Notes sur la vie'' or on our
way - from notes about life I looked, the previous day, at work '' Tartarin
Tarascon.“ And there, at the beginning of this book, that the adventure story,
travelogue, memoir, instructive book - at the same time I'm reading: '' At that time,
the intrepid Tartarin lived in the third house on the left side of the street that is
directly abutting the road to Avignon. It was a lovely house in the local style, with
gardens front and rear balcony. With the glittering white walls and green Venetian
blinds.
The inhabitants of this part of France, Alphonse Daudet contemporaries, as
his hero Tartarin, of course Tarascon, called Baron Munchausen South of France,
with no awareness that will give him much recognition. This attractive place of
wonder visited and Van Gogh, as evidenced by his screen '' A painter on his way to
Tarascon.'' 1957, This inspired Francis Bacon picture, made her unusually precise
expression '' Study for Portrait of Van Gogh'' which shows the great predecessor,
deathly pale, as the rest of the painting, under a tree, hidden from the sunburns the
sky near Tarascon. A lonely figure on an empty road.
Going to Nimes, I see a massive castle that stands out across the plains. I
remember the story of curators how and today has lasted controversy between
Tarascon and Bouches-du-Rhone, former settlements across the river Rhône, and
now part of the city Tarascon, on whose Chateue de Tarascon.

130
IN DUNGEON COUNT OF MONTE CRISTO

Morning in Marseille. Great as a port as a beast. Traffic on land and at sea - scream.
The sun was shining at the bottom of the bay between the islands that protect the
harbor entrance. At one point he stopped at the castle fortress in which the
protagonist imprisoned the novel "The Count of Monte Cristo" by Alexandre Dumas,
père.
Before me in the morning sun crystal curtain, stood Chateau d 'Lf, where the novel
Edmonds Dantes, a year imprisoned innocent thirteen. An inmate whose vengeance
will be great, because they were true and unrequited fantasies that convicts were
sent to the French Empire, the famous prison of Marseille for three centuries.
City rumbles trucks full of everything and anything, or happened to transport.
Psychosis hunting Fridkin`s film'' William French Connection "becomes more
understandable for me. However, crime in the city, and is now the largest entrance
of the Mediterranean to the European continent, was once a'' romantic. " At least in
the movies. In reality, the thud! What makes this port city unrivaled howl port
spontaneity framed barely restrained energy capricious habitat that resembles the
social and ethnic bomb.

131
In the "Vieux Port" and the old port, boarding the ferry "Caesar." Twenty-five
minutes, the ticket is about € 10 tourist routes enjoyable. Back to the tour guides,
the largest city in his. And prison-fortress which is less crystalline and less without
substance. For almost eerie. As the 16th century. In prison, which Europeans called
French Alcatraz! As designed and built in the 16th century. The main dungeon of the
Mediterranean. Dumas is placing his imaginary hero. The author, he paired with a
true historical personalities Portugal - Faria. In fiction "Monte Cristo," Alexandre
Dumas the scientist in real life becomes a monk, who provided moral support and
Edmond Dantes everything else. In real life, 19th century, Faria was one of the
founders of the scientific approach to hypnosis. Which was based on the power of
suggestion. If the right to Faria was not imprisoned in the Chateau d'If.
While walking to my taste, too sharp and reconstructed rooms adapted and
dungeons of the fortress at the pictures of all the "family Dumas," the sea around the
island quickly turns into a foam threatening. So we were forced to the premature
return before the sea completely mad.
Of course, after this morning against the adventurism literature of my youth, The
Three Musketeers are about to have arisen around the coffee shop where I enjoyed
the luxurious tastes of herbs involved in baked cakes just baked, they call here
"shuttle'' in memory of a bygone arrival of the Virgin Mary, and Lazarus in Marseille.

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CASSIS, WHERE THERE IS THE END OF THE CÔTE
D'AZUR

We went from Marseille to Toulon. From the large port, which once welcomed a
great poet Rimbaud, who anchored his youthful'' "The Drunken Boat" in his hospital.
This poet succeeded to die in it. The road led us into the biggest naval port of France,
Toulon. In the 17th Ages Marshal Vauban has designed its definitive fortification.
Travel books say the Cote d'Azur extends between the town of Menton on Italian
border, and of Cassis, somewhere here in the south, between Marseille and Toulon
And we are, so says the map, just in the immediate near the place Cassis! This means
that: let us coastal road to the city where the end of the Côte d'Azur in Cassis! Pass
through without stopping Aubagne, where there is the headquarters of the Foreign
Legion.
We came out of the forest of pines and cypresses but we have the next half
hour going through infinite space rich vegetation. And then we found the natural
wonder that disturbs the general direction of the coast horizontal line. A sudden
exclamation stone. Cap Canaille. Only then passed through the hinterland of
monumental rock-cliffs-of natural obelisk, known as Cap Canaille, who looks nearly
as powerful, huge meteorite implanted in the ground. This vertical boulder, we
awake by the quantity of stone that aspires to the sky. I thought, how is this miracle
effect on Tin Ujevic, a, great Croatian poet, when in 1914. was short time a member
of the Foreign Legion in Aubagne nearby.

133
 We arrive at a place Cassis, where it ends, historically or geographically, Cote
d'Azur. For that Frederic Mistral, poet, French and Occitan language, says that
someone who has only seen Paris and not Cassis has not, have not seen anything.
The town is a former fishing port, today is full of pleasant and picturesque cafés and
restaurants. The place is ideal for walking, fishing and climbing on this cliff'.
However, not everything would be normal, when I'm in a couple of restaurants and
cafes asked for a glass of wine "Cassis" I was very surprised. In better restaurants, it
not sold. Because it's not expensive enough! Restaurant owner had the same
answer: it is the product of the hinterland of the city. This wine is on them; allegedly,
drink only in local, rural pubs, or in Marseilles and Toulon!
'' Cassis'' I still had to find here. I found him in a restaurant '' La Paillotte,"
almost rural ambience. There I learned that this kind of wine here since ancient
times traditionally made. And strangely prices. And, all the locals enjoy it, all except
the upstart. I was pleased but not satisfied, because without buns, so-called
„Navette''', in which are placed all plant scents of Provence, and who was not here,
and the red "Cassis" had no real flavor. We may "Navette" be able to eat in Toulon.

134
AVIGNON (1)
THE CITY IN WHICH THE POPES ''HIBERNATING''

When I first saw Avignon, from the main road, what am arriving through the Alps,
French, indirectly, down from an azure sea, specifically from Marseille, the
impressive bridge over the Rhone like I said, it is recognizably, wished welcome.
And, from the mouth of the Rhone Mediterranean, I moved here. Arriving at the
table ''La Cité des Papers'', I could clearly see and the palace where the pope''
emergency'' resided for over 70 years (1309-1377). There is ''hibernating''
somewhat expelled from Rome by the decision of the then master of Europe.
Religious and secular. Century was XIV. It was timing, to publicist is saying, Avignon
stay ninth`s Pope, who avoided, be in troubled Italy of that time.
The latest in ''Avignon's series'' called the Anti-Pope! This is actually the end
of the period of dynastic struggle, when the original territory of West Frankish,
Philip's son, Louis VIII, finally united. His grandson, Philip IV, known for its brutality.
Force has forced the Pope to move to Avignon, destroy the Templar's and expelled
the Jews. Palace in which they moved these outcasts Catholic leaders, though some
call this period - ‘‘Papal slavery'', converted is into a kind of fortress. This building,
gray-white, imposing in Cistercians monk style, with square that precedes it,
dominated the aerial images and postcards of the city.
However, back to the bridge, which now has only four of the original twenty-
two arch. For a moment, ignoring the panel, which shows the unusual history.
Between 1171 and 1185 year, we are indeed in an impressive way, to bridge river

135
Rhone, and the current bridge ''Saint Benez”, this magnificence continues. It allows
you to cross to the left bank of the river, where he placed the essence of Avignon, the
settlement, which is due to the popes, Picasso and the Theatre Festival in global
awareness of the planet is simply a metaphor for excellence.
The city is full of traces of history, culture and everyday life in an area that is
inclined wine region, sometimes called Avennio, by the name of the Celtic clan,
which ruled in ancient times here. However there is an interpretation to the original
name Avignon got an about furious wind that knows here in the winter, fierce
blowing. Serbs, medieval, under pressure from the Turks, but their ambitions, they
reached Avignon. Guided Emperor Dusan's intention of trying to unite the Christian
force. And to gather an army from all over Europe, under some kind of crusade
against the Turks. That with him at the head of such an army stops and expels the
Turks. Thus would he, under the banner of crusade, not only broke the Turks, but
also made his long-desired dream: to conquer Constantinople. Although it was clean
Orthodox, who is not too happy watching the Catholics, Dusan, without much
hesitation addressed to Pope Innocent VI, who was in Avignon. The Pope with
interest welcomed Emperor Dusan's mission during 1354. year, which arrived in
Avignon to Venice.
However, the interests, those long-term, Raska sovereign and European
church-secular rulers, not enough overlap. So the Serbian delegation, by consisted
court judges Bozidar, one Greek named Nestong and resident of Kotor Damian, only
could admire the papal palace and frescoes in it, he has made and the late Gothic
style, under the supervision of Simeon Martini. By return visit never happened.
Constantinople not taken and all was still just as we learned in history. Gregory XI
was in 1377. Papal power returned to Rome, but the Roman - Catholic powers, until
the French Revolution, Avignon treated as a sacred papal territory. Therefore, only
in 1791. this is the city incorporated France.
This longs-mentioned and defined differently town exists as a center of
culture and arts, tourism in delicate balance liberated spirit, crossed with age-old
view of the vortices of faith and religious practice.

136
CERBERE, CITY AT THE BORDER BETWEEN FRENCH
AND SPAIN

Finally we arrive at the borders of Spain. Tomorrow I leave France. Day respite in
Cerbere. We are still in Catalonia, a very playful coast, the Iberian-oriental zone.
Ancient palace. Moreover, here he was fabulous King Charlemagne and his son
Charles. Of course, for centuries after inevitable Greeks, Romans and Gaul's, who
was the geographical and spiritual space permanently marked monuments. The
remains of these cultures still somewhat hidden, but still present and interesting.
Valley, which is partly housed and today Cerber, otherwise all the rugged beauty,
rounded the unusual rocks, which is most easily explained by specifying the
information that they feared for centuries by its expressiveness all unexpected.
Inhabitants of the region today, not without reason, are appointed this landscape as
'' Devil's rock. "
We have not sought accommodation: our guide, Bordeaux television
counterpart, the Spaniard Inhabitants of the region today, not without reason,
appointed this landscape as '' Devil's rock. ," took us to the Hotel Restaurant La
Dorado. Almost from the shore. While we drink coffee, as it aggravates us that are
many bikes around. Continues the environment in which is embedded a small town
Cerberus. Evening descends. Quartz structures, its bluish twinkle in the dusk, really
seem unreal. For day, yet this landscape alleviates many vineyards, olive groves, a
cypress and other plants '' Mediterranean'' botany. The climate here is almost

137
Southern, and the blood of the natives, sometimes French, then Spanish, and we
know exactly what they are - Catalans.
However, despite the prevailing climate splendor, I had the honor to late
afternoon, meet a local specialty: Tremonton, cold and wind with stunning Pyrenees.
Occasionally, the hot air from the Mediterranean clashed with the harsh mountain
climate. Then, for a few hours, all failed to fulfill gray, preceding the disaster. The
horizon covered with mist, which are all the vibrant colors of the south now silence
all this lasted only a few hours, although residents say tramontane, knows better.
However, 1940, the German philosopher and writer Walter Benjamin, in company
with an American woman, not allowed on this path. Gendarmes, customs officers
and collaborators were in control of this pathway. Rail - a tunnel through the
Pyrenees boulders also had not occurred. His only option is just to goat paths, in the
column of fugitives, mostly intellectuals and artists of Jewish origin, takes circuitous
mountain, to Port Bou.
As they prepare to visit, several interesting sites in the Cerbere learn more
about that part of the coast. The Côte Vermeille is a region in the French department
of Pyrenees-Orientales, near the border with Spain. The Côte Vermeille stretches
from Argelès-sur-Mer to the border village of Cerbere, quaint and relatively quiet
seaside hideaway. The towns of Collioure, Port-Vendres and Banyuls-sur-Mer
nested along a 20 km stretch of beaches, small bays, creeks and coves, with some
fabulous walks and trails. I intend to visit, in return, and Port-Vendres. Then go on a
bit of climbing. Our goal is to rise above the Cerbere. Cape Cerberus formed by steep
cliffs that rise abruptly behind the town.
It is the end of the chain E Albères, a prominent mountain. This is the ultimate
flagship French before the Franco-Spanish border, also known as "solar light."
Besides an exceptional view of the good part of the coast, at Cape Cerberus is
important Lighthouse. Uncommon designed such that it comes to a modern
sculpture, this lighthouse, as it is a point of comfort on this coastline. For tomorrow,
just left visiting another attraction - Le Belvedere du Rayon Vert.

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CERBERE 2
LE BELVEDERE DU RAYON VERT - AS SHIP ON LAND

I am still in Cerbere. Tomorrow I will take the train to Port Boa. They say that
tunnels and railway station'' beyond'' are unique in Europe. The town is where I
shall spend the night, or nautical center. Divers love it. Restaurants compete in
offering excellent wines and cuisine with African admixture. Marina is very
comfortable furnishing. There is also a hotel, modern, with plenty of stars, and sea.
In the morning, we visit dedicated environment Cerbere. Small walk rented bikes.
Mainly along the coast. We meet many cyclists. In all directions. Here is to seem
popular. Alternately, in terms of foreigners in this way include the tourism. Let us go
to the north and about 1/2 miles north of Cerbere on the coast road to Banjul's, our
acquaintance directed to the board that says "Le bout du monde." It is an attractive
restaurant on the coast. After refreshments, we return to the city. Afternoon we
waited at our Le Belvedere du Rayon Vert. An object that was interesting to us from
coming to this place because of its very unusual shape. We stand in front of him.
Impress and curious.
It looks like a powerful, slightly old-fashioned, the ship, which is opposite the
bow pointed frontal wave, while the hips to lean to one side of the main city artery,
while his other thigh touches the famous railway corridor. This building built back
1930th according to the plans of the Architects of Perpignan, León Baille. However,
today, the admirer of Walter Benjamin, better known by multimedia installations
Israeli artist Dani Caravan -'' Blue'' beam, laser technology, which is an interactive

139
relationship with fellow Caravan`s memorial complex in Port Boa. In an ingeniously
artistic - electronic the synthesis of these two features then meshed with the
Museum of Modern Art in Paris, Eiffel tower, and incorporated into the art and
music of Marcel Decamps John Keyd. Ingeniously.
It has the overall appearance of a ship. It has its own cinema, and a tennis court on
the roof. In 2002, the building was added to the supplementary list of historic
monuments. Part of the building has been brought back into use as apartments, with
some original features. The building is open to visitors, which is quite unusual, most
afternoons. At the end of the trip, we wonder what it would be logical to know at the
beginning. Where did this name?
When it comes to the really unusual name of this city, the local intellectuals
are unique to the derivation of the name has certainly nothing to do with the dog
Cerberus, the Guardian of Hell in Greek mythology, even if Cape Cerbere could
appear as a guard post at the entry to Spain. However, given the antiquity of the
name, it must assume to be a pre-Latin name, and to come from the pre-Indo-
European root followed by the Iberia-Basque. The name of Cerbere described, then,
a rocky place, which perfectly describes this location.
At the railway station, we wait Cerbere from local train that goes to Port Bou.
Because high-speed trains to Barcelona, in this time, do not stop at these two
stations. Once again, we are on a trip to Port-Vendres.

140
MY THREE "MEETING" WITH NATURE PARK
CAMARGUE

MY experience with Camargue Nature Park is at least in three layers. I

experienced it an emerging, the three locations, but each time the great interest.
First, I saw this natural compound, staying in Arles, from the highest point of the
amphitheater Arena. In it initially fought gladiators, now used for bullfighting, and
unbelievably, and opera stage. The story begins more than Caesar who crashed
Marseilles because the city moved to Pompey's side, and Arles declared to the local
capital.
I climbed the stairs to one of the sunken medieval towers, which added to
enhance the arena. From stone cells on the top of the tower, I looked through the
little window down, the roofs clinker-built, streets without trees, because it only
grows in the area, and by River Rhone. Through the southern windows saw is one
spot of the sheet of water - Camargue. It was an opportunity to inform you about the
famous and incredible Rhône River delta.
The restaurant "La Gueule du Loup," and where, because the waiters are
moving encyclopedia, find out how the delta exploited and maintained by the
Romans. The Romans, however, have one day left, with '' Wind and barbarians and
Christians'', Rhone has showered its sludge lagoons, the Camargue, the Gulf, has
become pestilential swamp; roads collapsed and ceased to be used. The city
declined. On the Camargue salt grass swinging wind, came a herd of wild white

141
horses, by which this region famous. Barbarians have it, later, finished off and only
had Charlemagne restored. Later, they come much later, in the same place appeared
oil refineries, nuclear power plants, chemical factories. In short, is the history of the
delta.
For lunch was served, what a coincidence, a filet of Camargue bull! In an
intimate setting, with views of the kitchen and smiling cooks, Rhone delta, the
Camargue, at me even prettier. Another encounter with Camargue occurred when I
came from continental France in Marseille. Throughout Rhone, and how else, I
descended from mainland France to the Mediterranean. This river that only Seine in
this country can be put into the background. Rhone, which from the Swiss Alps, with
glaciers, travels 813 kilometers to the Mediterranean Sea. In fact, the Gulf of
Camargue, that is an impressive blend of marshes, sand dunes, diverse aquatic plant
mediates between the rivers with historical symbolism, but very contemporary
tasks, and the largest Mediterranean port - Marseilles. From April upstream heading
to Avignon, Arles and Nimes, the mouth of the river became bluer, as the sky above
it. And, the smell of the coast this month absence seemed more intense.
Now I know, as the ship carefully maneuvers through mixed meander this
salty-sweet water in the delta, I actually channel of the Rhone leads to the sea. One
of those, who from the source go all the way almost to the mouth, reach the Rhine,
the Seine and the Loire. Marseille is shining east of where the river flows into the
sea. City of a million, the second largest in France, full binding traces the history and
extremely active present. A port, which can also reached by land and sea.
The third meeting of the Camargue was perhaps the strangest. At least, the
personalities are indirectly involved in the story of this picturesque delta. I went
from a town near Arles, Saint-Remy, where he was the asylum Vincent Van Gogh.
Saint-Remy is known for being born there Nostradamus. Prophet and astrologer
who predicted the ''almost'' all the world. For visitors to the Van Gogh
last asylum I heard a story that the famous Provence poet Frederic Mistral was born
in Camargue complex. In the small town of Maillane, in the confluence of the River
Rhone. A Mistral is a Camargue wrote numerous verses in the Occitan language,
which today serves classically educated residents of this part of France. Aside from
what I wrote at the Faculty offprint of this poet. Thus, the direction Maillane. By the
way, a lot of water, plants, birds. All over the Rhone river and its backwaters,
oxbows, ponds, lakes. White horses and bulls this time we have not seen. However,
we met the gypsies, who found long here a place of respite. I'm going to the
museum Frederic Mistral.
There, just as I expected, but also something unexpected - photographs and
documents from the winter in 1905. when, here in Camargue, took an unusual
meeting Provencal troubadour Frederic Mistral, and Buffalo Bill, the famous North
American buffalo hunter, pony riders Express and the sheriff. Which, of course, was
not just an admirer of poetry written by the French Nobel laureate, because he was
a semi-literate, but therefore intelligent enough to accept Mistral invitation to visit
him in his native land. Then the great poet came to watch him on ‘‘Buffalo Bills' Wild
West'' show, in nearby Tarascon, story to us Mistral curator at the museum, Daniel
Cody - alias Buffalo Bill - gave the poet a dog who was called Frederick Pan Pardeau.
Contemporaries of the meeting noted that the two major contemporary physical

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looks a lot like one another and that Cody expressed great respect for the famous
Frenchman.
In return, on one fork off at the River Rhone, the immense flock of pink
flamingos as if it wished that I in due course returned to Camargue.

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VAN GOGH`S INSPIRATION AND HALLUCINATION IN
ARLES

From the Romans, in Arles remained only Arena, which I found as a

prestigious landmark of the city. Only the Roman Arena last. Modified and adapted.
Thus, in its 17th volume in century built 212 houses and two churches. Out of
necessity and practicality. It was a city within a city. City that now adorns the giant
cedars. Last, all brighter and painted by Vincent Van Gogh, in which he moved all
intensity this region. Landscape burning and attracts artist's ecstasy and hot blood.
As a Van Gogh. Which is in Arles experienced moments of ecstasy but psychological
distress?
Whenever I feel in the mouth cranberry juice, I think of '' Cassia'', as it called
in Provence. And here, in Arles, I drank in the restaurant "La Gueule du Loup." In
this memory is and a French evening: because it was a Saturday night, downtown
turns into a gypsy North African feast. The streets were crowded stalls with food
and drink. And many ‘‘Shop’’ drawn into the vaults of the Roman arena, which stood
that open to everyone. In the orchestra played. Everything seemed to be Roman
festivals in Burgundy.
And I go, as do anthropologist’s trace of life and art of fireworks and abysses
Vincent van Gogh. Because Arles and the surrounding area are the scene of his
revelation and failure without defeat. I know that he should go to disseminate
Espace Van Gogh, where was the mental hospital where Vincent Van Gogh while he
was at the Medici, painted some of his most famous works of art. However, the
creative and existential spasms of genius painters were already in many places, here

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in Arles. Therefore, I go in his footsteps, through stories about him, and most
looking for visual motifs of his paintings, which is out of this town and the
surrounding area totally a lot.
While at "Hotel du Forum" freshening up, I listen to the citizens of Arles, who
know everything about Vincent, as he is under the southern sun, falling in color-
trance. It ends almost daily picture to picture. Gogh painted a sun in its full heat. A
special chapter in his paintings is imaging of meadows, olive trees, cypresses, hills,
mountains and stars. Then an acquaintance leads me to the building where he was
allegedly "Brothel" in which he painted a famous picture with the same name. In this
extension took place and the next event - According to official versions, the
disturbed Dutch painter cut off his ear with a razor after a row with Gauguin. It was
in 1888. Bleeding heavily, Van Gogh then walked to a brothel and presented the
severed ear to an astonished prostitute called Ratzel, before going home to sleep in a
blood-drenched bed.
Let me remind you then and episodes friendship with Paul Gauguin, who in a
fit of nostalgia, call in Arles and yellow house, where he housed. That is the common
picture of the nature. Gauguin on call Gogh arrived in Arles; to achieve the dream of
many artists, how would gather to work together in nature. However, among them,
Paul and Vincent, becoming a big difference, which is normal for such exclusive
artists. Van Gogh, however, a few pictures dedicated to his friends Gauguin. He
painted portraits of Madame Marie Zino Delagar owner of the cafe in Arles, who was
the favorite place of the two painters. It painted while he was in an asylum in Saint-
Remy-de-Provence, shortly before he raised his hands to himself.
In below I'm going to look for the famous "Yellow house." For as we walked
into the street, we found ourselves at Place - the site of Van Gogh's yellow house, his
hopes for the future, his studio of the south. Except of course, it was not there
anymore. Therefore, it really was. The house was destroyed in 1944 by an errant
bomb from a British bomber when the Allies were driving the Germans out of the
south of France. And of course, the target, which they hit, had been the railway
bridge over the river, which is a continuation of the railway line you see over the
bridge across the street. Standing there, you could see how the house lined up with
the bridge, and a bomb released too late would take out the house.
Finally, it is time for the L'Espace Van Gogh. This was the hospital where Van
Gogh taken after he cut off a portion of his ear. He also painted the interior
courtyard of this former hospital. In this hospital, he stayed on December 1888 and
again in January in 1889. Mentally very confusing but artistically inspired and
eruptive, at his residence this environment, where I just was, he leaves strong visual
works,
The most famous painting is "Garden of the Hospital in Arles." We visit this
sunny building with many arches and predominantly yellow. Colors by Van Gogh`s
obsessive love. These are the colors that Van Gogh almost obsessive love. The
garden is full of greenery such as blue bearded irises, forget-me-knots, oleander,
pansies, primroses, and poppies. Radiating segments are surrounded by a "Plant
gangs" now filled with irises. A difference between Van Gogh's painting and the
garden is that Van Gogh increased the size of the central balcony garden for better
composition. Adept at using color to convey mood, the shades of blue and gold in the

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painting seem to suggest melancholy. The yellow, orange, red and green in the
painting are not vivid shades seen in other work from Arles, such as "Bedroom in
Arles."
The evening we ended at “La Gueule du Loup”. I remember that I ate, what
they called a "meatball" that was like roast or beef dauber in a red wine sauce over
red rice.

146
LOOKING FROM MOUNT FARON AT OLD TOWN
IN TOULON

I am sitting almost at the top of the hill Faron. Below me spreads Toulon city.
This hill named after fires that had a role maritime headlight, light by which they
were oriented ships. I look at the city from a height that we somehow seem
cramped. Locate initially at a relatively narrow land. However, clearly the
interference Toulon today simply and clearly parceled. Increasingly, shops, markets,
warehouses, squares, flats, public buildings, sacred and secular memorial places,
restaurants, galleries, churches - are located between Boulevard de Strasbourg and
the Place de la Liberté, in the north, Lafayette Courts in East, Dormer Place in the
West and Avenue de la Republique and the port, to the south.
Yesterday I was at the Great Square and surrounding streets that lies between the
coast and the railway station. There are swarming with restaurants, shops and cafes.
That is all that connects these civilian lives in an intimate environment. I felt calmer
here and more comfortable than in Marseilles.
To this peak I got by funicular to avoid the narrow and steep path which also comes
here. I look at the harbor, where they have always been from many quarters came
ships. Toulon harbor was the most protected harbors, the winds and the waves, on
the French coast. From the terrace restaurant '' Le Panoramic'', as I look the Golden
Islands (Iles d'Or) and the open sea. Then I saw a big warship, in escorted by the
destroyers, as the north rushes to the port. These military bases in still standing
clock tower in which the residents for decades determined the end of the day.

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Previously, I was, of course, in the old town of Toulon. It does not dare to miss, or
the detailed story of the naval port. The historic center located between the port, the
Boulevard de Strasbourg and the Cours Lafayette, is a pedestrian area with narrow
streets, small squares and many fountains. Toulon Cathedral is located here. The
building we visited was officially completed in 17 centuries, and many older and in
its long history even converted in the mosque! I was impressed, even a bit confused
with the most notable work of art in the cathedral the eighteenth century “Baroque
retable “made to hold the Holy Sacrament. Later, I have traveled to Marseilles; I
found out that it is a replica because the original burned down. We walk around the
old part of Toulon and wonder at the multitude of fountains that we encounter.
In return, on the Vatel Square, I find that photo I brought into the minds of Toulon,
represents only part of the three-dimensional installations made conceptually: the
huge mural on the theme of marine life. Watch, live, how's torso, with Neptune,''
emerges'' from the stall, as in the photo in my memory, as part of what they call here
trumped l'oeil murals. Something as very effective. Evening coffee drinks in the
brasserie '' Van Gogh'', and as is the custom - in book impressions I find a lot of
effective drawings, as well as praise and restaurant staff. On one wall is an oil
painting that, allegedly painted famous Vincent van Gogh.
Then, through the coastal, I continued the journey. Maybe in the Alps. Alternatively,
Aubagne.

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MONACO
ZORAN SLAVIC

149
STORY ABOUT GRACE KELLY,
PRINCESS OF MONACO

From the title could get the impression that I'm writing this postcard straight
from a fairy tale. Although this part of the land, and surrounding sea, the occasional
appearance as newly composed is, almost fairy tale that happens for real, even when
it comes to Monte Carlo, Yet there is such a reality.
Prince, Rainier III, after extremely skillful rule, has died at age. Princess, Grace, a
former actress Grace Kelly, died in a car accident, along with the circumstances that
are not logical, though not traceable. Prince Albert, successor to the throne, affable,
attentive, had plenty of gaffes in "a previous" no royal life. At the same time
preoccupied, immediately after the inauguration, expressed skepticism about the
ability of his diplomacy, and circulated stories of alleged excessive sexual activity.
However perhaps the modern fairy tale is just as it should sound.
Current and former residents of Prince's Palace, the official castle whose
foundations were built by the Genovese in the 13th century, despite all sorts of
political, military and financial slippage and cracks, it must be said, very cleverly
cultivated a modern fairy-tale quality of your project. Because, from time
immemorial people have wished for a nice story, romance, roses without thorns.
Grimaldi Palace, a dominant position, and designed it to be at all, in an otherwise
lavish and pretentious architecture Monaco, which is hardly what the rest of the ''
Belle Epoque'', through the decades and centuries was upgraded, decorated,

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amended with expensive furniture, paintings, silver and gold. Grimaldi consistently,
its citizens and in Europe, consistently and continuously offers the concept of the
rule, enlightened, measured, at the same time, the pompous. It was a rule with
sufficient authority and ceremonial, which has a great understanding of the needs,
habits and problems of the rich and famous.
Cannons in front of the castle as a gift to Louis XIV, the French sovereign. The
effective change of the guard is much more than just a tourist attraction, as is the
Museum dedicated to Bonaparte, who, otherwise, once conquered Monaco is not
incidentally in the royal palace. In this museum, my attention was particularly
drawn to the battalion flag grenadier Elba Island, which was launched in march
under the '' one hundred days.' March, which was conducted from Waterloo to St.
Helena. It was the swan song of the Napoleonic Empire. The only foreign sovereign
who really respected by Grimaldi.
We sit at the apartment the couple Milica and Sinisa Gopčević, wife and husband
from Dubrovnik respectively Kotor. Apartment is located on the fifteenth floor of the
building, in that part of the territory of Monaco who torn away from the sea. We
drink coffee and cognac. Look at how twilight is slowly setting for this, by territory, a
small country. We see a nearly complete; the fairy-tale story of the imitation of life
becomes more real. For a long time, there has been such an obsession with the
Europeans in this part of the Côte d'Azur. Before it was after the First world wars.
The once popular musical composition' Eine Nacht in Monte Carlo'' is certainly not
without reason, for years caused nostalgia. Those, who have peered into this city of
gambling, glamour and a bit of forbidden passion, even among numerous Europeans
that the Monte Carlo was, and still is, only a metaphor something unreachable and
exciting.
While I walk around the rose garden of Princess Graces, as if from an
interview with the director of theater that she, the princess, founded, and through
all the other official and private contacts here in Monaco, I suspect a fascination with
the inhabitants of Monaco with her noble and decent person. The circumstances
remain unexplained; curves along the way are crazy about ten times we pass this
route, while the cult of Gracia Patricia Kelly, from day-today, in this country that
likes a modern fairy tale, it gets stronger. It would not surprise me if, in due course,
become a saint Grace of Monaco. Her romantic films, in life and in front of the
camera, with elements of tragedy, maybe then he has an effective ending. Because
residents Monaco, unlike the typical Frenchman, are not consistent cynics.

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MONTE CARLO
VISITING THE PRINCESS PALACE

When I descended, incredibly steep and full of serpentine, through branching

off from the highway, to Monaco, the state whose fame is not at all proportional to
the size, I thought about the Emile Zola. This great French writer of the novel "Les
Miserable's," once said that is besides Paris, Rome and Lourdes, and Monte Carlo is
part synthesis European civilization. A Monte Carlo only, though most stylish, of
Monaco. And then I saw, on a narrow stretch of land, almost plucked from the sea,
the three symbols this state princely palace, Casino and Oceanographic Institute.
First we went to where the sovereign resides, and where begins the formal
sovereignty of the states. With Spelling, where Casino - up, the palace, where is a
Prince. I almost forgot, the previously I was with a colleague from TV Monaco, Roger
Dries, drank cognac in the Paris Cafe d, whose spotless toilets all works and control
electronics. A wide, sun-washed terrace opens in front of this enormous brasserie
decorated in Belle Époque style. Despite the crowds, the service is smiling and
cooking the fresh and good. Some descent Provencal wines are also on hand, of
course, when we from tour back to dinner.
With a small ascent, we arrive at the palace, in which the structure hides and
the previous fortification. They last along the glamour and the former fortress in one

152
place. On the plateau, in front of the main, entrance to look first around guns that
since the time of Napoleon. Then we went to a museum dedicated to this great
military leader and Emperor Bonaparte. Photos, maps, models, original uniforms,
swords, sabers, shields and flags. Many in the Princes Palace in Monaco always live
only members of the Grimaldi family. This is normal and expected but it is
surprising that the only actor Grace Kelly, of all "foreigners" managed to take a
worthy and equal place in their flock. I found out several hours of stay in this
impressive building.
The fact that I was able to peek into those parts of the Palace that are not
available to ordinary tourists, not hinder me in the thinking that the ruler of the
Grimaldi dynasty completely uncompromising. They were and are self-confident,
bordering on self-sufficiency and cruelty. They managed it, without interfering with
other European dynasties, but with a secret and skillful collaboration with the
powers, to survive and become essential. Therefore, it was from the beginning,
going back to the first head of the castle, whose foundations were built by Genovese
their relatives, even in the 13th century.
After the museum, we go down to the shore. Here show us the tunnel actually ditch
carved into the rock, which for centuries served as a gateway to the eventual escape
of the inhabitants of the castle if the fortress be surrounded. I can feel the anxiety of
the moment of the feudal residue. I'm coming down in the Court of Honor. It is now
actually a courtyard that continues by the graceful Hercules Gallery. In the vast
underground reservoir is out in the 16th centuries to supply water to the occupants
of the fortress. In the Hercules Gallery looks interesting apparition "The Childhood,
Labors and Death of Hercules" that in the 17th century painted by an artist from
Genoa Orazio Ferrari. Our guide through the palace particularly bothered about
these images because according to tradition Hercules actually the mythical founder
of Monaco. For me it was the most pleasant in the Gallery of Mirrors, where clover a
play of mirrors creates remarkable illusion of depth, is the antechamber leading to
the "State Apartments. This is a strange room dominated by a marble bust of the
founder of Monte Carlo - Prince Charles III, and his wife Princess Alice. After several
hours of stay in the halls and rooms, full of Renaissance, Rococo and antiquity, the
output in the Palace of Gardens indeed relief. The above was the sky around the
palms, cedars, cypresses, juniper and, cactuses, and me. Suddenly, I find and
embrace the Mediterranean and the Orient. The harmonic rhythm surrounded us
fountains, swimming pools, deck chairs made of bamboo and precious fabrics. Here,
where they enjoyed the crowned heads, we have your minutes of relaxation.
The saturated senses of sight and a satisfied our center for the beauty and
grandeur, tired feet and hungry, we arrive at the Hotel d Paris, actually in his Cafe.
Dinner, to pay by our host from Monte Carlo, passed in the pleasure that this
expensive city rarely allows middle class. We went to the top floor of the Hotel de
Paris in the restaurant "Le Grill" and start enjoying it in the view of the Principality
of height. We also watched the evening azure of the endless panoramic sea. In this
truly elegant atmosphere, as recommended by the restaurant manager, we ordered
a dish called "Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb Cisteron" while we chose wine sommelier
Patrice Frank. Therefore, it was the May in Monaco.

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Oceanographic MUSEUM
HISTORY AND VIEWS OUTSIDE

The state of Monaco and its capital Monte Carlo in the geopolitical history of
Europe, in the plane of objective and quantifiable measures of volume, the syntax of
spiritual and material culture, the objective has been just handsome and
picturesque blink. Indimension cheery and ceremonial, and spoiled this is
glamorous states, despite all conditionality and dependency, however valuable
precedent with little pomp and blurred concentration decadents European elite. It
is, therefore, no reason, from the depths of his time, one Emile Zola in four cities
which for him are a synthesis of European civilization (the first three were in Paris,
Rome and Lourdes) included and Monte Carlo (the casinos, among others).
The combination of deliberate anachronisms, because'' scenery'' obliges and
benefits, and the latest technology-tourism achievements, this is a stateliest
completely open to every kind of capital, supreme entertainment, culture, sports
and all permissible vices. One could say that the whole of Monaco in the service of
profits and the jet set. However, several of its institutions and activities as a
precedent in the carefully maintained operetta beyond temporality, which skillfully
and consistently support those who manage the states, except for a royal family,
there is more. One of these exceptions is certainly Oceanographic Museum, a
representative combination of tradition and modernity. The combination of passion

154
and science. And sophisticated entertainment. On the coast, the over-populated
fragment of the Côte d'Azur, and that is not France, in the early twentieth century,
under the leadership of Prince Albert, was built and founded the Oceanographic
Museum in where are today, except museum exhibits, stored and institutes of
biology, geology and physics of the sea.
The museum building carved into the rock, weighed over 1000.000 tons. Built in
the precious stone, rises 85 feet above the Mediterranean, through its one hundred
windows, but nearly a century, overlooks the sea and the distant African continent.
Observing from the outside, this architectural gemstone resembles a magical temple
of ancient art, in which constantly flowing, literally, columns, fans, curious,
professionals and tourists, of which saddest Japanese when they find out that the
temporary must give up their cameras. When it comes to the fabulous museum
Panoptic, we become aware of the incredible combination of museology, modern
science, modern technology and a little fun, because almost all Monaco has a light
coat, let us call it, the American lightness of being.
Even impartially as possible, looking at all this tumult, curiosity, a wealth of
services offered, the elegance of the space, compatibility settings, presentation and
animation - it's impossible to escape the impression of perfection in the
organization of the mass, size, meaning and comfort. Because in condensed timing
that requires an incredible amount offered visual and audio information, the
museum offers, and provides enough light imposes tourist content. And, only this
delicate balanced relationship between educational function, attractive presentation
of exhibits breaks that allow the imagination to swing. It makes Oceanographic
Museum of Monaco remarkable.

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OCEANOGRAPHIC MUSEUM 2
WONDERFUL WORLD FROM THE SEA

The interior of the museum is made to decorative and structural hybrid of

classical architecture and modern design variations in concrete, steel, plastic. With
the use of electronics, computer technology latest digitization. Are used and all the
ancient material: brass, wood, hemp, stone, brick, rough cloth , damask, silk, silver,
diamonds, coral, pearl and steel. One can get a global picture of the sea, its
inhabitants, sailors ... And much more. This exquisite building there is, of course, an
aquarium with live animals, from the entire world's sea (Pacific Ocean, the China
Sea, Coral Sea, Indian Ocean, and Mediterranean); there is a large hall with skeletons
of marine mammals, with examples of valuable for science. Also attracting attention
and permanent exhibition about the problems sea: seawater, marine gas, water and
climate, movement of the sea, etc. Great interest causes setting of eels. Studied their
growth, migration, and issues of these saltwater species. In particular, are extremely
visited special cabinets dedicated clams and pearls. A special section on the first
floor of this beautiful stone is dedicated to the research expedition’s founders of this
museum Prince Albert I and there is a scale model of the first research sailboats
''Swallow'', as well as other vessels, to the most modern ones used by Cousteau
predecessors. When it comes to Jacques Cousteau, it should be said that he was a
longtime director of the museum and its institutes, but also, at least half the votes,

156
add to the impression that fact discreetly but consistently placed in the background.
However, let this remains just as subjective impression this visitor.
And we leave this wonderful bio-zoological-botanical decoration. In which he
recounted much of the exterior of our planet, going by boat to the bustle of Monte
Carlo. In my mind is still spinning scenes from the "Hall of Whales''. There is a
skeleton of a whale 20 feet long, breakfast is the 1896th aground on the nearby
coast of Italy. From the ceiling hangs a replica of giant squid, which also stranded in
the last century, however on the shores of America. If I happen to be Jules Verne, I
had asked myself, who what will be stranded somewhere on the planet in this
century. So much for the impressions of the museum built into the rock Grimaldi.

157
CASINO,
OR WHETHER THE MONTE CARLO WAS CREATED AS A RESULT OF
GAMBLING PASSION

Legends about the origin of Monaco say that one of the ancient gods,
Hercules, had a habitat on a cliff above the bay in which much later anchored the
principality. Near these rocks, and in Monte Carlo, the main and almost the only
town in the Principality, everything is close to one another, next to the Palace of
Grimaldi, 1856. opened a gambling house - the famous Casino. Since the twelfth
century when Grimaldi, a Genovese by origin, devised their property, Levantine
cunning, with the help of many defenders, among others they were Genoa, Sardinia,
France, Italy, Spain and family skills, diplomacy, and little use of weapons most - the
wisdom of the use of money, they defended their independence. Conditional and
valuable!
Therefore, the idea of Charles III, in a villa'' Bellevue'' starts working just
gambling house is perhaps expected but also very anticipatory. Money is the history
of the stateliest, which some ironic, but a cursory, wants to say it is a „city on a hill
waxed tradition, with a mini prince and the royal guard'', always represented not
only survival but also a condition of mental structure. Before the casino in Monaco,
there was nothing significant, if we exclude Grimaldi castle. And sea. Too little for
tourism and business. A gambling has swept across Europe at that time. Acclaimed
trendy places like Baden-Baden, Marijenbad, Homburg, besides healing waters and
refinement, also had the famous casinos, which are besieged European riches nobles
and adventurers - eager hazard, adventure, excited, and of course - money. Charles

158
III, apparently versed in magic roulette and money, with the decision to spin the
gambling here in the Mediterranean, beginning with the modern era of Monaco and
established the foundations of today's city of Monte Carlo, which is actually
developed around the Casino, and ” The Cafe de Paris''.
Of course, both of these objects can be seen just on old photographs, which
show here with reverence similar to that in other places shows reproductions of
temples and religious artifacts. Intuition, or the good knowledge of the people and
time, anyway, still not leaves Prince Charles. From famous Homburg, from the local
casinos, lead in Monaco François Blanc, a former highly successful gambler. Here he
soon became manager of brilliant. I appointed him director of the local Casinos.
Under the skillful hand, and luckily from this inspiring man, Monte Carlo, soon, on a
European scale hazard starts to get better ranks. From all sides come princes,
counts, Russian nobility, professional gamblers and European humbugs. All,
however, elegant, blasé and wasteful. And with them comes the money. The small
state of Monaco is finally starting to earn enough money.
Grimaldi they quickly understood that their future is in the Casino. Because
they are on the plateau Spellings started to build a new building for gambling,
which, with many adaptations, reconstruction and design, is today well-known and
recognized ''Casino'' in Monte Carlo. Interior decoration of the Casino in Monte
Carlo is little changed. The composition of the gaming audience is still varied.
Introduce an automatic. Losing and getting money becomes complicated. Joy or
sadness remains unchanged. And the casinos are still afraid of the big winners and a
gambler, what is the history of this institution was the famous Garcia. He was the
prototype for the novel "Gambler" a great writer, but also a gambler, Dostoevsky.
The proverb goes like, that comes with every sin and virtue, as evidenced by this
famous building in Monte Carlo. Directly from the casino lobby entrance to the
theater, which in 1879 built by the famous architect Charles Garnier? In a strange
but harmonious symbiosis with the casinos, but more than a hundred years here are
performed operas.
The author of the Paris Opera, the architect Charles Garnier was borrowed
from the government of then Monaco 4 million francs to complete the opera in Paris.
In gratitude for the service, there was an opera in Monte Carlo. At the opening, 25
January 1879th Sarah Bernhard performed and recited a poem by Jean Ekar.

159
SPAIN
ZORAN SLAVIC

160
PYRENEES, PAMPLONA
OVER THE HILLS AND THEN AMONG THE BULLS

I write down in my travel notebook: I am still in the Pyrenees. On the French

side, I stepped into Spanish. The colors are the same, the sky just as deep. Cloud over
noon. And a few hours before the eagle, appeared above the tops of Sabarta. Follow
me, however, consistently sound original phonographs, which was a little before
Edison invented by a man born in the Iberian Fabrezan. The poet and scholar
Charles Cross. I feel like I gramophone needle scratching vinyl, although it was still
1877. when the unfortunate Frenchman, actually his idea, for some overtaken
practical Edison, who already drum plays the song'' Mary Had a Little Lamb''. Maybe
I therefore lose sight of Hannibal's elephants, the harder, the climb, but unaware of
what awaits them in the Alps.
Go to the Roman road from Cadiz, through these hills. BC, though. I certainly,
in the third millennium, it is expected ancient Pampeluna, by raising even Roman
general Pompey. Go to Pamplona, in Navarro and the Basque country completely
close. I will see the monument Hemingway, who immortalized the battle with the
bulls. And running before them, because it is not running away, although it looks
like. And since only the May will not live to experience the grand pandemonium in
the streets of this city. Was I disappointed by that? I am not - I am desperate!

161
Anyway, the next day, I still breathe the air stranded Atlantis, which supposedly
stranded on the nearby Basque land!
I'm going to Pamplona. In Navarro. The history of the ancient kingdom of
Navarro always has marked by its border situation with France, Castile, Aragon and
Baskland. The farther I see Pico d'Aneto, the highest peak of the Pyrenees. Snow. Ice.
From the looks light creeps. And I went to the spring in Mougins. Descending from
the Côte d'Azur. Searching for Picasso's obsessive themes and destinations. Bulls,
which will not see how, run for men, in Pamplona, follow him through life. Head.
Horns. Metamorphoses. Ecstasy. I'm going to the people who speaking Basque
language, which after painting Apocalypse „Guernica," 1937. Pablo declared for ''
biggest Basks," although he was living in Catalan. And with Madrid city, the Reina
Sofia Museum, decades negotiate, would not this amazing mural was placed in the
Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao.
While our growing excitement, a bend in the road through the Pyrenees
never end, I look at the notebook in which I wrote down the name of the restaurant
in Pamplona where Basque specialties prepared. Write Ansoleaga 33, located in the
historical center of the city.

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PAMPLONA 2
ARENA AT THE END OF THE TRACKS

Finally, we arrived in Pamplona. Pilgrims and other believers were extended in

Santiago de Compostela. Pamplona welcomes us its unusual blend of traditional
ways of life, which is always, in all places, mixed, and mingled with the modern
times. That is the architecture, customs, cuisine, cultural manifestations. Meet
people on the streets with the same features. One, which we immediately see that
the residents. See it for clothes, temperament. Manners. We meet many, many
different groups. Dressed in a casual European and Anglo-American clothes. While
the youngest generation is characterized by relaxation and spontaneity. In fact, the
city of Pamplona is an incredible sum of ethnic types, cultural influences and
lifestyles. One thing is common - an unbridled need marked the streets for
entertainment, adventure and strong pleasure.
Nearly two million visitors a year come to this city. Mainly, to attend the
games with the bulls. To see traditional and authentic event. To watch, from the
streets, balconies, windows and even the roofs, mass must be cobbled streets. In
addition, many of them are to participate in the confrontation with whirling “live''
bolids over 600 pounds. Moreover, razor sharp horns. At the entrance to the arena,

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where a furious finishes that race of people and animals, all of them expected a
bronze Hemingway. The sweater, with a characteristic hook collar. Expected
winners. As observer very chaotic events that have, its own rules of which are
usually the first violation. For what follows: do not get drunk the night before the
run! Hemingway, in bronze, welcomes bulls, which will then be in the arena. In
addition, people who measured the speed with these fierce animals. Moreover,
survived in one piece!
Probably not all guests of this city came only because of the Fiesta San
Fermin. Pamplona has many interesting attractions. Museums, historical
monuments, other festivals, music, dance, folk, and even better football, part of the
powerful tourism offers this city. Club Athletic Osasuna, known as Osasuna, is a
Spanish football team based in Pamplona, a member of the Premier League Spain.
Moreover, have a great love of villagers.
Since it was only the end of May, the only thing, I was able to attend a local festival of
traditional dance called Baile de la Era. Which is very unusual and authentic But
very noisy. As it is indeed all here on the slopes of the Pyrenees. The fact is the
Pamplona important point on the ancient pilgrimage route conquest, Spaniards, and
many Europeans and South American and religious people. They go to Santiago de
Compostela, a sanctuary, a place of healing. Place of the miracles of all kinds, from
the pre Christian times. However, their passing but also a place of rest, this city,
throughout the year, giving the appearance of the habitat that is constantly coming,
going, and draws back. Perhaps this is the reason, besides the inevitable Bulls,
without neglecting a very spicy cuisine, why is mentioned U.S. writer Gertrude Stein.
She is, even in Paris, sent in Pamplona his'' lost generation'', these unadjusted artists
between the World Wars. To have fun and to recover spiritually.
My colleagues from Bordeaux television, who is a Spaniard, for one
afternoon, he was able to show us the beautiful Tejera Park, close to the most
monumental part of Pamplona. There are the towers of the town-walls and the
square of Plaza de Santa Maria la Real, with the baroque Palais Archiepiscopal. He
told us to Pamplona originally consisted of three small cities-fortress ("Burgos"),
which frequently they have been at war with one another. The King of Navarra
Charles III decided in 1423 to unite them. We saw the churches of those three
original towns still conserved: San wives, from the 13th century, San Nicolas, and
Santo Domingo. We were particularly impressed with The Citadel, a Pentagonal
fortification, built in the 16th century, with beautiful gardens in its interior. Today
building frequently used for exhibitions and concerts.

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DAY AND NIGHT IN PAMPLONA:
MOVABLE FEAST

Since our friends said the nightlife is also popular in Pamplona, we had to
experience it. We started with the "Marengo." This is probably the most famous
nightspot in Pamplona. Moreover, we are going to end in the Cafeteria El Moline.
This bar is situated in Barrio San Juan, which is a well-known area in the city for
having the best nightspots. However, since it was a Wednesday, when the extension
is not working, we missed. Lunch on the second day of his visit was to restaurant
LANUEZ. Polish. Politely. Kindly. The high level. We ate "steak tartar." It was juicy,
very fresh and seasoned spicy. I had the impression that the preparation is at all
orthodox, and then the meat has to pierce with a knife.
A friend of our friends from Bordeaux, Diego resident, while we walk
undulating streets, tells us: The American writer Ernest Hemingway was actually
the first "spread the word" worldwide an extraordinary story about people and
bulls racing. Residents of Pamplona and have previously enjoyed themselves in the
century's gladiatorial ritual, which in time became a world tourist and media
attraction. Every year, young men and other men, in ecstasy before the bulls are
running, also playful. And routinely lived in the picturesque, but a straight line and

165
slightly sidelined provincial milieu of Spanish regions with strong Basque origin. On
the other side of the high Pyrenees, a different lime of Europe. When I decided to
walk around this famous street, along which horned cattle persecute people blinded
by adrenaline, I did not know how much this habit, needs or sport discipline, social
and phenomenological ingrained in this civilization created after the Middle Ages.
Animals and people within the space that filled with speed, time and intensity. In
addition, it all began with the prosecution of the bulls from the stables to the arena.
Simple, even monotonous work, until one day something was torn off. The bulls are
chased people who went before them. This repeated a few more times. Until this
random incident did not become an event and sport that have its players and fans.
Well planned and organized. It all turned into a challenge. What the 13th century
noted down as the first special event. In the days when we celebrate Saint Fermin.
Mass and a massive running in front of the bull of Santo Domingo corral through the
narrow streets of Pamplona. They gallop and run away to Ring in which the animals,
one by one, entering into '' machine'' bullfighter. There they were stopped matador
and other helpers.
To take a break from the Bulls and the attraction of the night, we were fasting
Museum de Navarra. Moreover, it was worth it to come to this building, which has
numerous prehistoric archaeological remains, along with novel items, Romanesque
and Moorish art, Gothic and Renaissance works, there is also a collection of
paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as canvasses by 19th century
Artists from Navarra. Finally, let me mention that in addition to the building have
repeatedly profiled with us and decorative at the same time oddly paced facade
excited again. City Hall or The Town Hall built on the place that was once the city
moat. At the point where you are connecting the three historic defensive systems in
the city Pamplona. It destroyed on two occasions-the last in 1951 - but its
emblematic facade remained intact. This building is significant for its position from
the balcony whose, of his second floor, central launches choppiness that begins the
festival of San Fermin. In 1423, King Carlos III ordered the construction of these
premises.

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CASTELLFOLLIT DE LA ROCA
CITY ON TOP OF THE BASALTIC ROCK

Without intending to anywhere in drawing back, leaving my Figueres. Under

strong impression of Salvador Dali. Then, at a crossroads, I see a panel, which
written - Castellfollit de la Roca - 37 km. At that moment, I remember the story of
the ancient city of surreal at the top of basalt rock, which I read a few weeks ago! All
would have solved in a moment: let us see what the geographical wonder is.
Although the way through Catalonia worthy of attention of, as far from the sea - all
the stranger shaped stone, but also unusual and lush greenery.
Here, however, I only talk about Castellfollit, place at the top of the rock. Miniature
city, which is one of the world's natural attractions. One of ten attractive European
settlements on the rocks. Those on the rock that called cliffs. Suddenly, because it
hidden in the bosom of a green valley, appeared this unexpected urban exclusivity. A
small town, one of the smallest in Catalonia, emerged at the top of the volcanic,
basalt cliffs. On the stone area, with dimensions of approximately a square
kilometer, about a hundred feet above the rivers Fluvial and Toronela, built the
houses of volcanic lava. This material before 217,000 years ago poured out of the
womb ground. Below these the reddish roofs now lives about 1000 inhabitants.
Perhaps unaware of its existence imbalances, while staying on the edge of the
eternal abyss, that is attractive to tourists and curious.

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 They live there, and perhaps unconscious of its existence on the edge of the
equilibrium. Because that has to be stay above the eternal abyss. For everyone else,
that is just another tourist attraction. Narrow streets, in that darkness comes fast,
small squares, and life for centuries organized space inside, so to speak - of physical
limitations that, however, provide much greater security. In addition, brings peace.
Because the town founded at the beginning of thousands of years, around the castle
a Catalan nobleman was an oasis of salvation, all sorts of dangers. Just because it is
hanging over the abyss.
For in Castellfollit de la Roca reached only access across the bridge that is the
most difficult moments of history, sometimes intentionally, was disabled. As a
prayer for salvation in the church of Saint Isidre, which is much later decorated Josef
Berg, whose frescoes' in green, black and white exclusivity, suddenly and amazingly
discovered. I immediately thought of the fact that this settlement
who as a watchtower survive on the frozen volcanic mushroom, befits an atypical
sanctuary.
While I walk stone streets of Castellfollit, which, as a rule, ending at Tower Rock
Saint, whose clock to all residents of the town, made up of volcanic rock and
memory, showing the exact time, I feel of déjà vu!? First, remember, as from behind
mental, a Dubrovnik late afternoon. The same anxieties and stone silence that
enveloped me. Then, out of the warehouse, my reading appears Umberto Eco. And
not just his novel ' Name of the Rose'', but also '' Baudolino”. It was so at the
entrance to the Nature Park. Natural Park of Volcanic Zone. In Girona and in
Catalonia. One-step away from Gaudies' Sagrada Familia. Here we must return!

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SALVADOR DALI AND HIS FIGUERES

I travel from Port Bou, however, along the coast. Costa Brava, through the air
and sprinkled with glowing yellow and stellar color. That area was painted as the
gilded world of surreal, but in the middle of the real at the same time and imaginary
Spain. Hills, castles and fortresses, which are abundant in this landscape, in our eyes,
creating a surreal gamma. After a visit to the contemplative to the memory of Walter
Benjamin, I headed toward the center of artistic eruptions that lasted for several
decades, and her name is - Salvador Dali (1904-1986). I went to his home Figueras,
who skeptics say that without this great visual artist, this city was just an ordinary
street full of empty and impersonal time, on the way to Barcelona. This is certainly
an exaggeration, but it is Salvador Dali, the galaxies himself that everything around
him is changing.
And all the places where he lived also bear clear traces of the neurotic genius. My
companions seemed to show greater enthusiasm for this, since, part of the trip. In
advance, I was laughing expecting to see their faces after several hours of spending
in the Dali Museum in Figueras. Like any worthy student, reading lessons in
advance! Because I know that Fireworks is yet to come. We went through the sea,
twisting, all the vegetation and southern flora. He brought us to the place of
Portlligat, where we take a break, for good reason. This was the original residence of
Dali. The house, which is the traditional fishing village huts arranged in a unique

169
studio, in the form of the labyrinth, with a garden and pool. Here is this magnificent
artist, along with his mistress and muse, Gala fabulous, planned and implemented
many exciting projects. In walking through this little place, I used the opportunity to
express their companions with Dali sentence that reads, I do not need drugs, and I
am drugs himself!
Further along the coast. We enter in the town of Cadaqués, the place where Dali
spent his childhood. The landscapes forever remembered. This part of the sea and
the mountains are recognized in many of his paintings. Thanks to cultural tourism,
Cadaqués has recently become known tourist place. Many galleries, exhibitions,
shop and art. While over the city to float a legend: Salvador Dali and his numerous
guests: Matisse, Picasso, Marcel Duchamp, Max Ernts ... Even Albert Einstein here
played the violin Dali. We then walk through the local museum and the city. For my
companion, but I noticed a slight panic of "the shining" Dali space, fame, intense
colors soothe, legends, paintings and sculptures. There are a many kinds of art in
which there is a large shadow of the artist. Finally - Fugueras. We arrived just in
Dali's birthplace. Today, it is the city of 34,000 residents. In the hinterland of the
Mediterranean. Previously, only a way station for the trip to the capital of Catalonia -
Barcelona. For a long time - this city is almost a shrine for all those who admire the
surreal paintings of European genius. The city with Moorish elements and traditions
extremely varied culinary traditions, road and rail connections, the three high-class
hotels, numerous restaurants. And the combination of afternoon siestas and evening
rush. And it all works through a combination afternoon siestas and evening rush.
Figueras are still 1862nd visited a fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen and was
delighted of colors, scents and flavors of Catalan cuisine.
Moreover, we arrive at the Dali Museum. It is the theater building from 1877.
Locate, of course, surreal and multimedia exhibition of paintings, sculptures,
installations, costumes, artistically designed jewelry. And it all accompanied by
music of the spheres; playing with the light of such intensity that we all become
aware of what it really means '' paranoid critical method of transformation'',
How art critics will say, that is Dali art procedure. His lively „interpretation'
Delirium'', it must be said - masterfully artistic and exciting, here in Fugueras begins
and ends. In the city and the museum! While coming out of the Museum thrilled,
enthusiastic, or perhaps confused in my mind floats artist canvas “Gentle portrait
with F. Bacon ''. Coming into the car, used the opportunity to tell my friends just
another testimony of Dali. '' The difference between me and a madman is that they
claim that they are healthy while I admit that I am completely crazy.'' It can be,
when it is great.
Spain, goodbye! You are a lucky country because you had after Picasso and
Salvador Dali.

170
PORT BOU
BENJAMIN: MEMORIES: MONUMENT

When the train, local, at a speed of only 40 km going through a tunnel leading
through the Pyrenean massif, leaving Cerbère, the morning was fresh and the sky so
blue as the expression that it is Henri Matisse during the night painted. Through a
second tunnel with dizzying speed, at the same time, international traffic is unfolded
from Spain and Portugal, and France, of course! In the meantime, we learned that
much of the complicated of the railway crossing between France and Spain is the
fact that the track the diameter in these two countries are different, so in Port Bou
and Cerbere done complicated transfer carriages, passengers, cargo and - tests the
patience of the people who commute from these towns.
The train came out of the tunnel, after about ten minutes. There was a modern
railway station Port Bou. All in metal, glass, similar to a huge hangar. The
information that built for the World Exhibition in Barcelona, even the 1929th seems
unexpected. From the valley, where they visibly settled railway infrastructure,
coming down to the Gulf, deep and secure, which is named after the fishers who
catch fish for centuries along the banks of the Mediterranean using a drift net. Along
the bay, which looks fascinating, placed a small, old town, with a solid harbor, a
cultural-historical monuments, most significantly Church of St. Anne, built in neo-
gothic style. Few buildings from the past, dominate the new restaurants, cottages,

171
apartments and incredibly long, wind-protected beach that is adjacent to the
greenish water of the bay.
In Port Bou I primarily came to experience it as directly as the place where is
mine literary themes from previous years, essayist and philosopher Walter
Benjamin, 1940. end his life. The hotel, named'' France'', in which the act happened,
does not exist anymore. In Port Bou, Spain and Europe only record remaining details
of the event, about obscure and unclear but dramatic for all those who can immerse
ourselves in an existential Strait, this writer, Fugitive, Jews, Europeans at the
beginning of the Nazi darkness. So, in that, now nonexistent hotel, say once very
inexpensive, Benjamin was expecting morning. He knew that get Gestapo raid,
because some, perhaps the owner of the hotel, reported to the authorities. Walter
Benjamin is because drank an unknown quantity of morphine tablets. In total there
were 50 tablets which is a few weeks earlier he shared with his friend, the writer
Arthur Koestler. It was September 1940. Thanks to the local priest, who wrote the
book of the dead that Benjamin died of a stroke, and concealed that Walter
Benjamin was of Jewish origin, a great writer was buried in the cemetery in Port
Bou. Suicide is only later made public. In the immediate vicinity of the cemetery, and
visual artist, Dani Caravan, raised an impressive memorial complex called GATE,
which is very symbolic because it reminds us of what your life for Benjamin could
not find. The central place in the Monument takes up a tunnel through the rocks
belonging to the Pyrenees, which looks out on the open sea Atlantic, where Walter
Benjamin never arrived. Incredibly black paint walls, that surround them ending of
the tunnel, in contrast to the azure sea and green environment, suggest the
existential dread.
Benjamin's literary and philosophical work, however, and today is still actual
and credible fit into in our current postmodern life. The town of Port Bou, with all
respect to the memory of the great philosopher, lived an intense life tourist popular
Costa Brava. Trains pass. United Europe travels. I go somewhere in the depth of the
coast. I should be happy because I satisfy his curiosity. However, going from Port
Bou with bitterness in the mouth.
While I was late afternoon, dined at the restaurant „ L Ancora Fact“ I've long
thought about the story of the about Henny Garland, the person to whom found in
the documentation in preparation for the arrival at Port Bou, the photographer, who
was in the company of Benjamin and other fugitives from France, in the days of his
death. While I in late afternoon, dined at the restaurant "L Ancora Fact”, I've long
thought about the story of the lady Henny Garland. This is a person I met in the
documentation as I prepared for the arrival at Port Bou. She was at that time a
photographer, and there was in the company of Benjamin and other fugitives from
France, in the days just before his death. Or before suicide? Henny Gurland together
with his son stayed in the same hotel, "France." She then traveled from Lisbon to the
United States, where she married the philosopher Eric Fromm, who was a friend of
Walter Benjamin. Many people were thus saved, but Walter Benjamin is forever
stayed in the cemetery above the open sea. Near which passes the side road for
Barcelona. A small town in Spain, Port Bou, so tourists, besides enjoying the summer
vacation offers the possibility of insight into one story not clarified, from 1940 year,
which is part of the cultural history of Europe.

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GAUDI`S NEURALGIC MONUMENT

To a man, the traveler, a passerby, even less informed scholar, was able to
understand the rhythm of breathing and thinking this sounds, almost, in the
Mediterranean city of two million, Barcelona, one of the elite group (with Venice,
Marseilles, Genoa, Dubrovnik, Naples .. .) must be kept in mind that there are two
historical-cultural axioms. The first reads: Spain has for centuries meant more to the
world than it now can be. Second, easily traceable moment you step on the streets of
Barcelona, boils down mercilessly, the imperative: Catalonia, the hidden anatomy of
the Spanish spirit, the latent autonomy of the soul that sleeps somewhere else. And
his, Spanish and vanity as much as circumstances allow, the epitome of art and
football.
It is necessary to know this because just repeating these lessons are likely to
perceive by one of the wonders of the mind and matter in this fabulous city.
Advance already presumed: talking about the building, chapel, whose history and
almost impossible to form any other place. Cathedral or '' Templo de la Sagrada
Expiators Família'' or Church of the Holy Family, which was launched and, in the
grandeur and genius confusion is not completed, the architect Antonio Gaudi. The
same one you have mentioned in solving the exterior (Rosario) around the
monastery of Montserrat.

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 Born near Barcelona (1852), which, because of their positions of prestige
Mediterranean, once found on the main road, which is a plague, visited Europe, on
It terrible cruise through large human settlements. Although it is a bit out of topic,
and who knows if that is right, let us remember what it was like in the 14th century.
Of Pisa in 1348, the plague came to Florence and continued towards Rome and
Bologna. From Venice jumped in southern Germany and Austria, and came from
Genoa to Barcelona and Marseille. In Paris, he arrived in the summer of the same,
the 1348th, when he knocked on the door of London.
Anyway, in the Mediterranean, plague ravaged , the Catalan capital, which
many understand, remember, and not know how, Antonio Gaudi Cornet and
graduated in architecture 1878th quickly became the leading artist artistic
movement called Art Nouveau. Schismatic extraordinary power of imagination,
which cannot tolerate limits, the direction of artistic expression, which besides
architecture integrates itself in many artistic disciplines, the Gaudi was a true
revelation and the only architectural writing that is suited for real. After the
implementation of a series of memorials, parks and educational projects, Gaudí
embarked on an adventure called the “Sagrada Família''. This project was never
completed. And that even today it is New Gothic, a little neuralgic form, looks at the
flowers that burst in the rain meteors. Aiming at the sky very Catholic Barcelona,
who as a culturally complex city. This is the city tolerates, likes, adores and even, on
condition that does not hate, this cathedral indoctrinate his genius artist.
Gaudi replaced in the project architect F. Vilar. It was the realization for a
long time prepared ideas on construction spiritual monument, for which no
purchaser could foresee and how the Cathedral at the end of that look... According to
the idea of a reputable bookstore Josep Maria Bocabella, who was inspired to raise
this temple found in Italy, in the town of Loreto, a famous architect Francesc de
Paula Del Villar made the project due to various conditions ended in the hands of
talented, hard-nosed and, apparently, divine providence predetermined, Gaudi. In
the first, partially decomposed began work, building on what is appropriate, begins
to realize his own vision but not brilliantly brought to completion. However that
same, fabulous Church of the Holy Family, which is just a constant process of
construction, it becomes iconic buildings of Barcelona.
10th June 1926. without completing, the Cathedral Antonio Gaudi died. He
succumbed to injuries that he inflicted on the tram. After his death, his work as
phantasmagorias tried it completes dozens of authors. All are reportedly working on
Gaudies' plans. According to the plans for which the experts, or perhaps malicious
add, claim to have existed only in the artist's head, or more precisely: the
imagination. However maybe it's been better. A thousand hands, dozens the Minds,
tons of concrete, stone, metal, plastic, glass, marble, this is all built into the one
hundred meter high cathedral which today is architectural, sculptural, construction
and artistic wonder.
Only I do not know how in this amazing and terrifying House of Godd, such as
the'' Templo de la Sagrada Família'' God personaly feels? However, if it was long
enough in Spain, Catalonia and Barcelona - then he is comfortable in this building. So
did Madonna of Montserrat is not a black way! Because the city where the plague, as
part of its Mediterranean-European'' tour'' spent a too much time, the port which

174
directly overlooks the large blue'''', where in 1929. staged exhibitions in the world,
and Barcelona hosted the Summer Olympic Games, the city who adores football, a
Picasso, Miró - contain enough enthusiasm and fantasy in their everyday pattern
embrace Gaudí cathedral whose shapes resemble a moment with the borders of
dream and nightmare luxurious everyday.
The texture of the building, its cylindrical-cubist forms, ceramic paneling,
rich and unusual mosaic is done and Alexia Clapés Puig, make this a religious
building unique phenomenon in the European architecture. However, in a report on
the status of work on the Cathedral, in December 2004, signed by Jordi Armengol
Bonnet, says that work on Gaudi's cathedral (started in 1884) ending! Even if not all
completed, was established one challenging new system neuralgic beauty! The
question remains - can the Sphinx Gaudi ever be finished

175
BARCELONA, TRAIL OF LESS PICASSO'S
DEMOISELLES D'AVIGNON

"Ells Quatre Gates is a restaurant in Barcelona where the young Picasso 1900th
organized his first exhibition. Having learned from the curator of the Picasso
Museum for this information, I went to the address: Carrer de Montsià third A
waiter from Paris Pere Romeu, was returning to Barcelona in 1897. found the cafe, a
kind of institution with actual and future bohemians. He did not know the
thunderous glory of this building. A dozen years later, he died as a victim of its own
unbalanced plans. However, tuberculosis. Picasso and Catalan art as giants, and
their society was and Antonio Gaudi, probably with brilliant passion "Sagrada
Familia" in his head, from the inn, today the prevailing ocher-yellow, brilliant
thinking, drawing and drinking various alcohols made the cult of the cafe and
meeting place for artists and tourist Barcelona. In which dominates today, not some
Picasso's work, but an imposing canvas painted by artist Ramon Casas and Carbo,
who is co-owner of the once "Ells Quart re Gaits." On a tandem, bike this Spanish
painter and co-owner of Romero, common entrance into history. In which, the
bohemian and artist, painter and Casas Carbo already have a place as a prominent
Spanish modernist.

176
 In this bar, located near the center, there was no one to tell me whether “happy
girl” at it, once, visits you from Carrer D'Avinyo. On the other hand, the young Pablo
Future great Picasso, he found a happy woman in a location that is not too far from
this building. In which otherwise appear and the Chinese theater of shadows. Lack
information forced me to go to the side street, in which Picasso, long enough and
often stopped by what exactly diamonds, testify, and circulated his famous
paintings. What many think it inspired by the papal Avignon. Ladies canvas with
"Les Demoiselles d'Avignon," regardless of its Afro-Cubist physiognomy, however, is
certain to miss the ordained one brothel in the street of the same name. Here in
Barcelona. Although many people think, because of the name of Avignon in the title
picture, that Picasso actually inspired by the papal city in France. Ladies canvas with
"Les Demoiselles d'Avignon," regardless of its Afro-Cubist physiognomy, however, is
certain to miss the ordained one brothel in the street of the same name.
Enough close to the official city center of the Mediterranean, Catalan,
metropolitan. Remanded to the darkness fell. As in the entire in city. On the Ramble
Avenue traffic slowly subsided. Not so far from Africa, the day arrived almost
straight summer, the night flowed with the freshness of the Pyrenees. Midnight
softened sounds of Mediterranean policy would disappear in the scent of the sea,
barely, just do not forget the urban story, shaded gasoline vapors. I breathed in the
night most zealous city in the world. Or, at least one of them.

177
BLACK MADONNA FROM CATALONIA
HISTORY

I stand at the foot of the hill where there is one of the largest sanctuaries in the
Spain Monastery of Montserrat. Before I entered the elevator that leads to the
platform where the monastery, think about a country that I discovered only a small
part. And today's Spain is a country of diverse beauty and wonder, not only because
of the magnificent nature, amazing music, Ethnicity diversity, remains non-
European civilizations, the great painters and poets, respectable and somewhat
mystical religious (read and inquisitorial) past, but also because all the above exists
intertwining with the current modern times.
Spain lives through its current moment world tourism and football power that
dominate. Today's postcard arrives precisely because with Catalan height where the
local legend stores and the Holy Grail. One of the most beautiful spots in Europe
where they intersect epoch, with an explosion of natural beauty, spirituality and
mysticism is the monastery of Montserrat, an amazing place even greater
expressiveness and symbolism, built in the Iberian nest, a distance of fifty
kilometers from Barcelona.
This Benedictine monastery for centuries is a holy place and a target pilgrimage of
many Catalans and Catholics from all over Spain, Europe and the world. High in the
hills, among the caves and rocks, at an altitude of 1200 meters, since the ninth
century, after the victory over the Saracens, were laid the foundations of this
important temple. And in the eleventh century abbot Oliba he place of the apparition
of the Virgin Mary, founded a Benedictine monastery. That spiritual headquarters

178
was destroyed, extended, renewed but lasts to this day as a religious climax of
Catalonia. From the fifteenth century monastery Montserrat becomes famous
because then in concentric circles starting to spread rumors (and true) about his
healing powers, the great library but most lost and happily discovered sculpture
Black Virgin (Madonna), wooden relics from a central location on the portal.
According to legend, the Black Madonna is a gift that St. Peter did Catalans, while
tests using scientific methods, the emergence of the current version of relics dating
back yet in the 12 century.
However, in this nation, however significantly higher for the Catalans, is a sanctuary
and his Holy relics, represents something magnificent and untouchable.

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BLACK MADONNA LEGENDS AND PRESENT

Drinking coffee on a terrace and listen to you, the next table, one Japanese and
English discusses how it is that the Virgin Mary - Black?
Is strangely, the beloved Spanish version of the legend is more present, as well as
the belief that the portal Montserrat monastery, with a black virgin of course, the
place where, on occasion, the Holy Spirit resides. Talk to the Roman version, as
legend says as Original Madonna removed 718 years before the invasion of the
Saracens. Either way, this monastery is today the center of spirituality and of
Catalonia, while the black color which occurred the most Holy, an alleged
consequence of the thousand of smoke from hundreds of lamps and candles in the
monastery portal. To this place of pilgrimage local train drive from Barcelona every
two hours.
The highway could reached more quickly, and those who want to experience the
grandeur of nature and the gradual introduction of spirituality and mysticism, most
appropriate use of lifts. As much as the legend fascinated me of the Black Madonna
and the Holy Grail, I was more impresse by the architectural design of adaptation
monastery complex, which is by the famous Antonio Gaudi, as sculpture ascetics,
heretics, exiles, and later saint, Ignatius of Loyola, in the left atrium loggia. In his
right, let me forgive him only as a second mention, Saint George.
Two more worldly attractions related to the monastery of Montserrat. The famous
local children's choir of the sanctuary still belong to the spiritual activities of the
Sanctuary. Composer Richard Wagner was one of its themes favorite themes.
Especially because the libretto for opera ''Parsifal'' took from the legend of the Black
Virgin. Second, the non-religious attraction relates to the fact that incredibly steep

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and challenging rocks surrounded the monastery. Therefore, the immediate
surroundings Montserrat selected for one of the best polygon for extreme sports -
claming. The world cannot get enough oddities and wonders! Religion and sports
hand in hand! After such knowledge, is not surprising the fact that there is a radio
and television Montserrat. Once we have all that in mind, it is not surprising us by
the fact that there is a very good quality radio and television productions. Of course,
Monastery has the web site, which requires a free Internet communication.
Most visitors to Montserrat stay in Barcelona and then travel by train to Montserrat.
However, you would actually like to stay in Montserrat for the night you can
possibly get a room at the Abat Cisneros.

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HUNGARY

ZORAN SLAVIC

182
BUDAPEST: MARGIT SIGET
RIVER ISLANDS THAT DANUBE TOUCHING

It is an incredible feeling current relaxation when you are in the green Margit
Siget. In the middle of the Danube. Transfer from the incredible climax of Budapest,
whereas for a minute do not stop wailing siren ambulance and the police, are
embedded in the overall noise of the big city, is fast and elegant. Buses, taxis, bike.
Even on foot! Therefore, the shock of pleasure and beauty is so stunning and
relaxing. Therefore: Margitsziget (Margaret Island) is a huge island between the two
bridges: Margit-híd and Arpad-hid. Seemingly, it nailed to the Hungarian capital, a
few hundred meters away; this is an island where the city rests his soul. Halfway
between Buda and Pest, Hungary largest island in the Danube, originally known as
Rabbits Island, now popular as Margaret Siget centuries represented, first, religious
rarity, then resort and spa, and today is all that and more tourist attraction, of
course. This river island, in the urban environment, is an unusual feature of this city.
Margit Siget has given Budapest, the Hungarian capital, another dimension to the
city that has long taken up an important place in a great range of world capitals. This
island has long been associated with Budapest bridges with Margaret and Arpad. It
has inhabited since Roman times. Then it was in the Middle Ages monks visited due
to its isolation from everyday life, but also kings, due to the hunting.
The island is named so after the daughter of Hungarian King Bela (Adalbert)
III, Margaret, who became a nun in the 13th century. In the 19th century, the island
became a place available the ordinary people of this city. Suitable for couples. For
Margit Siget I first heard it in the late sixties, the radio transmission water polo
match our team against Hungary, taking place in one of his famous pools. Maybe, it
is just one from the pools, which are bears the name of Alfred Lajos, Olympic winner
in the 100 and 120 m. It was since 1896.

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Having learned about the fact that this place is in the middle of the Danube small
archipelago of island's eighteen, I could not decide what to admire more: the nature
that created them, or entrepreneurial, persistent and pedantic Hungarians
throughout the centuries and decades of adapting these islands new purpose. The
one purpose, which has always been in collusion with what the man from the city,
returns themselves, their bodies and their souls.
Thermal pools, walking trails, tennis courts, fishing, beaches, open theater,
interesting bike trail, two large and representative hotel (old'' Grand Hotel'' Siget
Margit, with marble bathrooms and rooms of incredible dimensions, and "Thermal
Hotel") only part of the content that this Danube island has to offer the residents of
Budapest and numerous tourists. Including the inescapable and cute Japanese. The
Chinese, however, are not here today, foreign tourists! Many of them live in
Budapest.
Of the neighboring islands, which bound in the chain of recreation,
entertainment and leisure, first mention Old Budim Island, Óbudai Sighet, which is
the biggest rival Margit Sighet, mostly because of the fame that has seen in recent
years: it has popularity as '' Pepsi'' island. The name is derived from a weekly pop-
music festival, which brings together the most famous pop groups in the world and
over 300,000 visitors. Is not bad and remember the names of some other islands
Danube between Pest and Buda, such as Haros, NEP, Molnar, Palotai, Szentendre,
and Chapel. If nothing else, at least be surprised how many are refined and
regulated by your drawing our previous in this area. Is not bad and remember the
names of some other islands Danube between Pest and Buda, such as Haros, NEP,
Molnar, Palotai, Szentendre, and Chapel. If nothing else, at least be surprised how
many are refined and regulated by your drawing our previous in this area. In
Budapest, Hungary, which have multiple destinations for enjoyment.

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BUDAPEST PARLIAMENT
CRUISERS SHIPS ON THE DANUBE

I went many times to Budapest. Therefore, I stayed for a while and more
often if I just went through this town on a trip to Vienna, Bratislava, Prague or a
German city. I knew that this large and prominent city of Hungary and Central
Europe created by merging two smaller barely separated longtime habitat. Of
course, it was a Pest and Buda. Therefore, it was a little surprised when I learned
that in all this unification participated and a third settlement - Óbuda! However, it is
more about the etymology, I would say, ethnic and linguistic story, but the existence
of the third segment in the creation of Budapest. Obuda is actually part of the
historic village Buda or Serbo-Croatian Budim: The name means Old Buda in
Hungarian. The name in Croatian and Serbian for this city is Old Budim, but the local
Croat minority calls it Obuda. The name "Buda" they use for the fortress in
settlement Buda.
The island (Óbuda Island) next to this part of the city today hosts the Sziget
Festival, the huge music and cultural festival. However, formally and legally
Budapest has made the three communities. And all of them legal, legislative and
monumental connect Parliament! This mighty edifice, on the banks of the Danube, it
can be seen from any place on one side or the other side of the river. Any bridge to
go sight you must stop at the impressive outlines of Parliament. I had the impression
that me through Budapest continually monitors its physiognomy. It is located in the
Lajos Kossuth Square on the Pest bank of the Danube. It is the largest building in

185
Hungary, and the second largest Parliament in Europe. Similar in design to the
Palace of Westminster, it was built in Gothic Revival style with a symmetrical facade
and a central dome by Imre Steindl. It is 268 m long, 123 m deep and 96m high, the
number 96 Refers to the nation's millennium, 1896, and the conquest of the later
Kingdom of Hungary in 896. Construction started in 1885 and the building was
inaugurated on the Millennial anniversary of the country in 1896, although only
completed in the 1904. Architect Imre Steindl unfortunately blinded before its
completion, so never saw the result of his grandest architectural plan, which
includes 40 kilograms of gold.
When entering the Parliament, can go up great ornamental stairs, see
frescoes on the ceiling and pass by the bust of the creator, Imre Steindl, in a wall
niche. Other statues include those of Árpád, Stephen I and Hyundai János. One of the
famous parts of the building is the hexadecagonal (sixteen-sided) central hall, with
huge chambers adjoining it: the Lower House, where the National Assembly meets
today, and the Upper House. The Holy Crown of Hungary, which is also depicted in
the coat of arms of Hungary, has displayed in the central hall since 2000. Further
features include the stained glass and glass mosaic paintings by Mikes Roth.
In the wake can be crossed with suburban railway, but I decided to move to the
other side through Árpád Bridge or Árpád híd. From the top of the Buda hills, I
looked at the Pest, which is just getting ready for the night. I saw my first
Parliament. What looked like a great ocean Cruise ship. What is strayed on the
Danube.

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SZEGED
STANDING IN FRONT OF SZEGED SYNAGOGUE

By some coincidence, before traveling to Hungary I looked photography former

Becskerek synagogue, destroyed in the war. On that occasion, he said to me by a
friend I would see in the coming days for at least two full, not destroyed synagogues
that this looks very much like Zrenjanin Synagogue, the first in Subotica, while the
other will be able to visit in Szeged. And it was so. One in Subotica I have seen and
described.
Now I'm standing in front of the one that was built in Szeged. This facility seems
powerful but also very measured. Suggest more than it emphasizes power and
religious belief. Previous Synagogues, one with pictures in Zrenjanin, Subotica and
even, acting modestly, but in a style reminiscent of this Szeged Jewish prayer house.
The Szeged Synagogue is a 1907 building designed by the Jewish Hungarian
architect Lipót Baumhorn, Whose work is considered to contain the finest examples
of the unique fin de siercle Hungarian blend of Art Nouveau and historic styles
sometimes known as Magyar style. The building's interior, with its 48.5 meter tall
domed ceiling, draws on multiple historical styles to produce its overall Art
Nouveau / Moorish Revival style. The rib-like wall above the body has Gothic
origins, while the columns supporting the galleries are the Roman. The interior of
the great dome, and all the building's stained glass, are the work of the artist Miksa
Roth. The hinges are like the hyssop plant, a plant used in the ancient Temple
service. Design Ark Torah alludes to the Holy of Holies in Solomon's Temple. Using

187
this tree from the shores of the Nile, as it was called upon the wonder of forests that
used during the construction of the Temple of King Solomon. The hinges are in the
shape of the hyssop plant, a plant used in the ancient Temple service - that was the
story, sorry, almost in the same breath, he told the host of this church in Szeged.
This city closes at Subotica, for centuries, willingly and unwillingly, bound in
history, geography, politics, and art and cooking our own, Pannonian and Vojvodina,
space. Here and there are people who have similar customs, land and sky. We were
jointly Turkish and devastation, the Austro-Hungarian history, the fate of the
Eastern European communist. Sometimes is Central Europe was entering this
common lobby Balkans over the bridge over The Tisza, near Szeged. Even when
Vojvodina was part of the Empire. In the triangle of Timisoara, Szeged, Big
Becskerek, through history and Pannonia place a substantial portion of Central
European economic and artistic activities.
From Szeged's originated and the founder of photography in this area, Istvan
Oldal. Djura Jaksic, in this city attended junior high school. Laza Kostic, the plot of
the drama, "Pera Segedinac" settled in this city. All this, and many other thought,
went through my head repeatedly until I came into this city of 160,000 inhabitants,
with primary urban and architectural baroque setting, and visual modernist
interventions in the overall architecture and physiognomy.
Of my numerous, it could be ancient, meeting with Szeged, this city has long
traveled in Europe. Here lives aside from the previous socialist-realist model, which
still dominates the smaller and more remote provinces of Hungary.

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SEGED 2
FERENC MORA MUSEUM

Really far from the 1183 deep in the history of European dawn, when Szeged
was first mentioned in writing documents, a lot of water had passed the river Tisza,
on whose bank he founded this city. In addition, as if the unbridled energy of Attila
the Hun's head, which has spent enough time in the region, which is now named as
Szeged, transferred to the inhabitants of this place. Their enterprise, trade and
science in particular, as if such an endless energy inheritance by from ancestors
means. On Attila, who was "The Scourge of God," and reminded me terribly spicy
fish stew I have unsuccessfully tried to eat at a restaurant on the water, on a barge
anchored in Szeged. However, after a few days and several attempts, I succeeded,
even enjoying a meal, seductive and full of challenges...
I ate fish soup with chunks of catfish; I drank wine with soda. The culinary
stays on barges were an opportunity to remind you that the Szeged is known as the
home of paprika, a spice made from dried, powdered capsicum fruits. Paprika
arrived in Hungary in the second half of the 16th century as an ornamental plant.
About 100 years later, the plant begins to cultivate as a vegetable crop, and pepper,
the kind vegetables as we know it, it becomes part of the culinary tradition. Szeged

189
is also famous for their Szekelygulyas, a goulash made with pork, sauerkraut and
sour cream. Moreover, famous for their Halasz, a fish soup made of carp and catfish.
Sure to make your stay in this town are not only dedicated to the enjoyment
of food and music. Which by the way is not so bad? One day we devoted
considerable touring and scientifically significant Ferenc Mora Museum. It is an
impressive building in the old part of Szeged. It was built in 1896 in neo-classical
style. Antal Steinhard Adolf Lang designed it. And as we approach, the palace
imposes on us an amazing likeness of the object with the White House in
Washington. That congruence goes in the series, we are sure that we read the
address of the museum. When man's immersion in the complex circuitry of the
museum, it becomes clear why it is so important in Hungary. There are no
departments of archeology, nature, folk tradition, numismatics, fine arts, theater ...
All very functional, meticulously thought out and presented completely modern.
When we left the museum at dusk, Szeged already glowing in the nighttime lighting,
and we have had a full head of Hungarian history and culture. By the way, we
learned that the Ferenc Mora, a famous Hungarian writer by education historian and
geographer. He was born into the surrounding Szeged, where he died 1834th

190
MISKOLC AND ITS VACATION AREAS

For years, Miskolc for me was the only city which is at the output from Budapest,
turns to the right, where there is a famous Hungarian wine region Eger and Tokay.
Therefore, it was time for me to Vienna, Bratislava, Brno and Prague always ran to
the left, towards Győr. It was until last July, when to my stay in Budapest intrigued
three things. On the Internet, I previously discovered a site, which provides the
ability to do a script for a virtual knight (prize) game that takes place in a castle
Diosgyori, near Miskolc. Then, the music television editorial staff received an
invitation to the Festival of folklore, music and dances in Miskolc. That staged in the
same, the medieval castle in Diosgyori. Finally, I found only a hundred kilometers
from the site. Therefore, the direction of Miskolc and Diosgyori.
The first encounter with this city of nearly 230 thousand inhabitants, in the
late afternoon, seemed confusing: most of the buildings and other urban elements
from the period since 1950. In 1980, it means in communist times. A lot of gray and
uniformity. Besides some modern buildings on the periphery that occurred after the
nineties Miskolc completely at first glance justifies its reputation as a regional
center of heavy industry. Only when we entered the central Széchenyi street, and
adjacent sections of this, the very basis of the historic habitat, unfortunately been
demolished and incinerated in the continuity of the Tartars, Turks, Empire army, the
Austrians and the Soviets, we felt the beauty and pomposity construction of the 18th
and 19 century. The imposing Palace of the National Theatre, which is a separation
of Cluj-Napoca from Hungary and his theater course, became the oldest theater

191
building in the country. We pass by Otto Herman Museum, there were then taking
the Greek Orthodox Church, with the largest iconostasis in Central Europe, and
closer is and the Protestant church in the Gothic style. Everywhere extend dozens of
residential and commercial style buildings, which despite preservation and
imposing, seem as exceptions to the map city where decade’s metallurgy was
overriding.
For us, Bartok's opera festival guests, the hosts organized and daily trips to
the surroundings. We were first, all until late afternoon, the resort Miskolc. It is The
Cave Bath, a thermal bath in a natural cave. The thermal water is reputed to reduce
joint pain, and since it has a lower salt content than most thermal Waters. People
can bathe in it for much longer, practically an unlimited number of time, as our
theater company made good use of. Along the way, we learn that the cave and the
thermal spring been known since ancient times, but Tapolca became a popular
bathing place only after the Ottoman occupation of Hungary (16th-17th centuries).
Our hosts took us for the next week; they took a beautiful trip to Lillafüred, a village
12 km from Miskolc. It was a memorable time in the Bükk Mountains. When we
arrived near the picnic, we had to see what the - suddenly we found in a forest
setting, which more resembled Switzerland and Austria. We first visited the Hanging
Gardens, which are below the hotel, between the streams and Szinva Garadna. The
highest waterfall - with its 20 meters height - in Hungary can found here. The
waterfall itself is artificial; it would run normal under the cliff built by the water.
The internal water tubes formed the Anna Cave at the bottom. Then followed a
shorter route to the caves. There are three natural caves not far from the hotel, Anna
Cave, with plant fossils preserved in limestone; István Cave, a large cave dripstone
and Szeleta Cave, a cave where many Paleolithic relics were found. Half an hour
moving through the cave near water and darkness it seemed as if we transferred to
another world. An exciting experience!
We had lunch at the Palace Hotel. A large park surrounded the hotel with
rare plants. The famous hotel designed by Kálmán Lux, and was built between 1927
and 1930, in neo-Renaissance style. One of the restaurants of the hotel is a
restaurant named after Renaissance King Matthias. Its stained glass windows show
the Castles of historical Hungary. With an incredibly friendly waiter, as a main
course we had a stew of wild boar. We ate this gourmet dish and poured a bottle of
good wine. In Miskolc we go back a very good mood, but in time for the evening's
opera.

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TRIP IN CASTLE DIOSGYOR BY RED TRAM

After two days stay at Lake Balaton, swimming and sailing on the lake, which is
apparently the rest of the Pannonian Sea, I headed to the north of Hungary. On
Budapest highway was straight, because it goes through the plains. Are interspersed
meadows and cultivated fields. Twenty kilometers after the capital terrain becomes
wavy. I'm going to Miskolc on some theatrical Symposium. Miskolc, a city in
northeastern Hungary, surrounded by rivers Sajo and Szinva, located in the
Mountain Bike gap, which called the gate Miskolc, remains strong commercial,
industrial and agricultural center, and in addition, some recession fell from moving
the capital markets in this part of Europe. Miskolc is now trying to become, known
as a cultural - instead of merely an industrial - city. Among the various cultural
events, one of the most important festivities is the International Opera Festival held
in every summer. For that festival, respectively on some counseling, and I am
invited.
Waiting for the start of the Symposium, and opera performances are in the
evening hours, I decided to go to a nearby Diósgyőr and visit its famous medieval
castle. Besides opera festival '' Bartok “, whose loyal audience free city tram ride to
the National Theatre, four years in a medieval castle in Diosgyor maintains a
prestigious ''Kalaka music “ - folk music festival. This well-preserved historic
building, once a royal castle from which manages Miskolc and throughout the
region, built in the 13th century, its 700 years of existence and celebrate every
summer fills with music, dance and theater performances by artists from around the
world.

193
 After about ten minutes, mostly urban, driving, coming to this city, or it would be
better to say the suburbs, which is a specific blend of ancient and modern. In today's
suburb of Miskolc, Disgorge , this castle is impressive dimensions, with its four
towers, one of which is slightly chipped, with a drawbridge over a hundred steps
from the bottom to the first platform, today there surrounded by a football stadium,
residential developments, steel-works, which had to give way to more powerful one
in Hospice, but wreath wooded hills. Those hills only remember the days that this
fortress besieged by the Turks (sometime in the 15th century). The adaptations of
this historic space need within the performing arts festival ''Kalaka" organizers are
clearly trying not to disturb the original elements of central European style of
building castles. However, the website of the castle, which allows the simulation of
war and strategy, history and pseudo historical, testifies to the modern media access
to past epochs.
That night, in the castle Diosgyori, showed Bartok opera '' Bluebeard's Castle “. It
was an unusual experience expressionist work, inspired by Maurice Maeterlinck, in
environment arches of the castle, which is inevitable in lobby steel plant, from which
sprayed heated river of iron ore.
In Miskolc, I returned with yellow tram, when I arrived at the castle, the tram was
red what depends on time of the day. Performed Mozart's “Magic Flute."

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PECS
TOUR OF SYNAGOGUE, CATHEDRALS AND MOSQUES,
ON THE SAME DAY

I arrived in Pecs from Budapest, traveling the offer even more than I thought
because the end of the road must pass through the mountains called the Mecsek.
Pecs, city of Hungary, located behind the Osijek in Croatia, and the famous Mohács.
This city has in spiritual notes and material remains such a tremendous number of
histories that is simply inexplicable that the third millennium works like all the
other.
The city has historically gone through a variety of military, economic, cultural and
religious stages but so it's no surprise that I counted 18 religious facilities.
At first, we found in front of the famous Jewish School of Pécs and the still
operational Synagogue Great Romantic style. The members of the small Jewish
community Pécs use the small synagogue, on weekdays and it is in the school's
garden. During a tour of the facilities, which seems at all rationally constructed,
without luxuries and excesses, we found out that it conceived and designed by
Frigyes Feszl, Karoly Gerszer and beauty of Kauser. Today in this building, which
was completed back in 1869? standing board with an inscription, which is a Biblical
quotation that tells the following: "The house of prayer for all peoples" - this
according to people of any religion may visit the Jewish services. The painted
geometrical forms, the fruit and floral ornaments form a harmonic unity. The
sanctuary directed towards Jerusalem, its ceiling covered with stars, and it divided
from the nave by a row of richly ornamented bronze railings. The Ark formulated by

195
four marble columns and a large dome is located in the sanctuary. Above the basin,
the miniature clocks used to show the order of prayers on Saturdays. Several
memorial plaques commemorate the victims if the First World War and the
Holocaust.
We have some respite, with lunch in the Zsolnay Restaurant. We ate a delicious
duck with red cabbage and plum. Dinner held in a pleasant atmosphere with
friendly staff. Of course, the restaurant is decorated with Zsolnay ceramics, which is
a trademark Pecs. After the coffee, we have continued to this day in Pecs intended
visiting religious sites.
Put us to the famous Cathedral; with four towers make this city distinctive
throughout Europe. We find that the first two of its towers are the 1064th while the
reconstruction of the medieval added the other two. Our host, journalist, TV Pecs
Arpad Nemeth, explains that Today appearance was established in 1891. The goal of
this reconstruction was to restore the "original" Árpád-age, the Romanesque
Cathedral. The length of the church is 70 meters, its width is 22 meters, and the
height of the towers is 60 meters, while the roof above the side-aisles is 22 meters
tall. Inside the church, I was most impressed by the world famous wall paintings of
Bertalan Székely, of which can seen in the St. Mary and the Mór chapels. They depict
the most important moments of Hungarian history and the life of the Pécs Bishop St
Mór.
There is still time to see two mosques, which are in Pecs, remaining from the
time of the Turkish invasion of Vienna. Now I approached the first mosques,
minarets, no one, so I heard - the sound of the organ. However it was only in my
mind: I heard them at the Basilica, reminded me of the fact that this city a hundred
years ago is one of the most important manufactory to produce the so-called pipe
organ. First, we come to the Mosque of Pasha Qasim is one of the symbols of the city
of Pécs, because located in the city center, on the main square (Széchenyi square).
Today, it functions as a Roman Catholic Church and the minaret demolished in 1766.
However, it is still one of the largest Turkish buildings that remain in Hungary. It
harbors the characteristics of Turkish architecture.
Other Islamic place of worship The mosque established by pasha Yakovali Hassan
was built in the second half of the 16th century, Szigeti outside the gate of the town.
During renovation, the mosque refurnished according to its original purposes. This
is the only mosques by Turks in Hungary, which remained intact. Its minaret is not
destroyed! After this amount of touring religious sites, rest and relaxation in Tettye
Restaurant us, it really felt good.

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PECS/ ZSOLNAY
IN TOWN WHOSE CERAMICS PAVED EUROPE

Again, I was in pieces. It's worth coming here, if nothing else, because of the wine
and tobacco, the famous 11th-century cathedral, the university, which has its roots
in 1367th and two-preserved Ottoman mosque. And of course, there is a center of
world-famous „ Zsolnay ceramics'' And a powerful artistic life. When you with
elevator ascend to the TV Tower in the center of Pécs, bird's eye view you can look
at all the wonders of the city of about 150,000 inhabitants, and some other things
that walked the crowd through the historical and tourist itinerary might not have
noticed. These are magnificent forests on the slopes of the Mecsek, large and
menacing'' throat'' of abandoned coalmines in the distance, and then the highest
unoccupied building in the world (located in the'' Guinness'') built in 1979. by the
University purchased from one Forint, in an empty desire to turn it into a student
hostel, and finally factory that produces prestigious '' Zsolnay ceramics“.
This time, first refer to the Zsolnay Museum. In the company with me are my
friends, one Hungarian and one Slovak, Laszlo and Janko. In a pleasant stroll through
the Pecs, go to the museum breakfast is on the outskirts. We remind you that this
was a settlement in the Roman period, called Sofian. That over time the rich military
and utilitarian objects, and the ruins of the course. Also traces of beauty and flow of
peoples and cultures, which alternate between these parts of the Drava and the
Danube. The first, recorded and recognized were Illyrians, in fact Panonians, then
come the Celts, Goths so Avars and Franks and about 899 become due and

197
Hungarians.
In the building, which houses the'' Janus'' Pannonius Museum, for an hour, we
stopped to visit. However, the scope and complexity of setting items this exceptional
cultural and historical center, our intention reduced only to a preliminary
introduction to its significance and reputation. There we learn that the Janus
Pannonius Archaeology Museum, in the 17th-century home of a Janissary
commander just behind the Mosque Church in Széchenyi Tér, traces the history of
Baranya County up to the time of Árpád. It also contains many examples of Roman
stonework from Pannonia, and the model of St. Bertalan's Church and medieval
porcelain. Everything else, we left for another day.
However, our goal is the Zsolnay Museum. The oldest residential building in Pécs
now serves as the home of the Zsolnay ceramics collection. The building at 2
Káptalan Street was first documented in 1324. In 1476, Zsigmond Hampi set up the
first public library in Hungary in this building. During the Turkish occupation, it was
the official residence of the Turkish chief imam. The restoration works carried out
between 1954 and 1955 revealed several mediaeval building sections. And in a
museum, many stories about the past as our eyes filled with gorgeous colors and
shapes tiles, bricks, vases, bath, basin and other ceramics for everyday use.
The story of' Zsolnay ceramics is at least Central European issued, because almost
no major city in this part of the world in which something is covered with roof tiles
this manufacturer, or tiled cube from the same source, or pasted tiles made in the
halls of the Hungarian art-lime company. And in their houses classier households,
especially around Pannonia, was already decades have prestigious ceramic products
stamped „ Zsolnay ''. In this part of Europe, that is, almost everyone knows the
quality and brand 'Zsolnay''. However, the number of those who could accurately
locate Pécs as a place created this high quality, overdone and quite expensive, but
indispensable products is significantly lower. Now we are at the place where it all
began, and now kept as evidence, memories and challenge. Then, we went to the
parts of the museum dedicated to the art, the decorative and the latest products
made in the famous Zsolnay porcelain and ceramics. These products, from special
types of clay, Ceramic materials called Pyro-granite, the most tawny or reddish
glaze, almost materialized technological innovation, design and artistic glory which
is a justifiable brand „ Zsolnay ''are from the sphere of purely utilitarian, soared in
the area beautiful and sound metaphysics. From Pécs, in all past and future times.
After dinner, of course, in “Zsolnay Restaurant," we ate a very good goulash, in
which the hot pepper and garlic pulled intensity. With wine Tokay, we watered this
dish, which is normally not recommended just before bedtime. Therefore, our walk
extended until late at night. A slow walk around the town Pecs, which has so much
content to offer to a world need urgently to come to visit him.

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BALATON
IN THE MIDDLE OF FORMER SEA - LAKE

It was a long ago summer, August, a day full of sultriness and anxiety, when I
was with the highway, which ran from Budapest to the border of the former
Yugoslavia turned to Siofok. Summer resort on the shore of Lake Balaton, even
longer ago in transcription and real circumstances designated as "Lake in the mud'',
behind the former Pannonia Sea, endemic geographic relics from before the ice age.
In my perception of today's Hungarian exclusive spa and summer tourist center, too
broad testimony of for the limited newspaper space, interweaving three
impressions.
One, by whose explication and I started this card: personal the memories and
suited for the fantasy. In this climate a very difficult day with a hot wind blowing,
look at the yellow-gray surface of the lake, which is lost in the blurred horizon, gives
me a hint of melancholy. Melancholy entirely suited to this landscape. This scenery
is very similar to the wold that stretches almost from Budapest and came to this
primeval water that it Pannonian Sea forgotten in this valley, an endless flat plate
which is yet close to these little puddle shores of Lake Balaton, interrupted by
Bakony mountains. Nearly 100 miles scope this lake with an embrace of warm
embraces, and so Baedeker said silky water the base of the mountains.
In my „Balaton syndrome'' then persistently coming from reading parts of the text
relating to the Balaton, and coincide with my experience reading. Siegfried Lenz is a

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writer, the book called '' Einstein passes Elbe near Hamburg'', and the story is
named'' The waves of Lake Balaton ',' a passage, which I remember, begins with
sentence "Neither of bathing in Lake Balaton man was not refreshed. Bend, dives to
the neck, closes her eyes because of the shimmering desert moving. The lake is too
shallow. Judith, he says, the water is heated too quickly''. My experience is almost
identical. Great writer, however, forgive the fact that it does not say enough
enthusiastically about the tourist destination Hungary, which is now a real summer
challenge. However, if we take into account the psychological context
in which the heroes of this story come to vacation in Siofok, and that Lenc fiction
created over three decades, Balaton fans will be pleased and thus they entered this
artistic prose.
Siofok is otherwise with this name entered the memory is regionally 1055.
that in 1863, when they built train stations and ports, became respectable facts.
Through the centuries, and some more, this town became the center of life Balaton
especially tourism ambitions, opportunities and today's actual business results.
Balaton as a very original and rare Geo-bio-culinary-recreation and spa oasis in
monolithically Pannonia, in Siofok, the resort offered: swimming, sailing, horseback
riding, hunting, hiking beautiful parks, summer music events, trips to the field,
among the half-wild horses and their somewhat milder tamer, has its flagship
European level.
So much for the third and most recent impression of the Hungarian resort.
By the way, read Lenc '' Einstein''. You can better understand the Balaton and
something about family life in general. I mean your own.

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HUNGARIAN VINEYARDS: TOKAY 1
BLUE TOUR THROUGH TOKAY PARADISE

In the far northern counties of Hungary Borsod-Abuja - Zemplen, whose name is a

bit complicated to pronounce, but it abounds in natural beauty, medieval and
baroque castles and monuments, full of historical curiosities and legends. Is
renowned for its tradition and wine production. In the far northern counties of
Hungary Borsod-Abuja - Zemplen, whose name is a bit complicated to pronounce,
but it abounds in natural beauty, medieval and baroque castles and monuments, full
of historical curiosities and legends. Is renowned for its tradition and moneymaking.
In the region there is also town Tokay, which exists as a habitat, but more as an
imaginative landscape that seemed to bewitch thick and sweet nectar - “Royal
Tokay."
Here is everything between heaven and earth, and say, in particular moods, and
more deeply, painted, sung, heady, ancient, musical and seductive. Of course, with a
little exaggeration, because of natural disasters and other calamities cannot exclude.
In addition, despondency. Fortunately, I arrived at the Tokay district at the right
time, and without despondency,
Therefore, it is not difficult to understand why Hungarian coach managers this
region calls hiking paradise. The triangle between Slovakia, Ukraine and Romania
Tokay is placed in the intertwining rivers Tisza and Bodrog (known toponyms from
fiction Miroslav Josic Visnjic), the geomorphology of the soil that is very similar to

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that of Eger and Miskolc, the climate'' annex'' the Carpathian's, which brings
freshness and rich plant life. This '' Blue'' tour, as the tourism shows the destination
of the status and prestige can cruise, besides modern package tours, and bicycle,
horseback or 119 years old railway narrow gauge. In this town, the story of the wine
is actually about grapes and wine, has pushed all other issues. However, the history,
the part of the locals who want to mention, can distinguished: This wine region first
mentioned under the name Tokay 1067th year. The town is mentioned 1353rd the
first fortress was destroyed during the Mongol invasion of Hungary. Tokay already
the 14th century had a rocky fortress that belonged the fortress Diosđor (Diósgyőr
estate). After the city became the property of the family Hunyadi. After the
inauguration of Matthias Hunyadi king, Tokay became a royal fortress. In 1705,
Ferenc Rákóczi II (Francis II Rákóczi) ordered to demolish the fort. The fortress
Diosđor intends to write when I get there. Because of the First and Second World
Wars here does not say much.

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HUNGARIAN WINE REGIONS: EGER
WINES THAT MAKE LIFE MORE BEAUTIFUL

When you've already got in „Hungarian Manchester'' - Miskolc, with a small

excess of knowledge of geography, time and vacations in the summer, driven by
curiosity, and no sense of long resting at spas, I decided a couple of days devoted to
the study of the region Borsod - Abuja - Zemplen. We are located 180 kilometers
from the country's capital - Budapest. Moreover, twenty away from of the border
Slovakia. Traveling through Hungary, seeking to enter into details of the story of this
country. I am currently in its dimension'' wine'' as the most famous wine Serbian
northern neighbor, the European famous, produced more than a hundred
kilometers from Miskolc. In addition, on both sides. In Eger and Tokay.
It is interesting to know that the local vineyard of its origin and subsequent fame
owed to the disease appears vineyards due to phylloxera, which devastated
Hungary around 1800. Then was destroyed the famous and powerful vineyards in
Miskolc. Built on a great foundation of sand, limestone, minerals and permanent
irrigated with thermal inputs from the depths of the Pannonia underground.
Anyway, in those years, after swept cholera which decimated the population center
of the county, plant disease (phylloxera) for all the residents of Miskolc deterred
from winegrowing as the main occupation? Now has a beautiful vineyard in the area
but people have accepted the trade and industry, and more recently the culture, and
the wine left to Eger and Tokay.
Eger and Miskolc fate was linked first major at the time of the Turkish invasion of
Vienna: the first is defeated castle in Eger and then one in Diosgyori, which stands

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alongside Miskolc. In 15th century. It built too in the 13th century, although severely
destroyed by the Turks in their prior-ambitious expedition into the heart of Europe
until smooth. Castle Diosgyori is a much later with reconstructions recovered
almost in the original building. Eger proud residents, however, say that the view
from the top of their tower nobler and the only real. Added, after a psychological
break, that is the one from the top of a minaret, was this something that is going to
the mosque, but not as good...
Civilized Hungarians saw off fierce Turkish army when retreating after the
Vienna damage, but the majestic minaret, a representative architectural monument
of ancient times, there was that exists in the center of Eger. Although the fortress,
the city and its surroundings easier to see. In addition, there are nothing to see in
the city is rightfully called '' Baroque bead Europe'', because only in the center of
Eger has about 150 buildings under protection, because of its lavish architectural
structure and rich plastic wall.
While we walk through a city that we with its baroque, simply back to a time when
beauty and splendor were important, gradually enter into our basic theme - wine!
As I said, Eger is famous for its wines. In fact, it produces both red and white wines
of high quality. The famous and traditional varieties of the region are Egri Leányka,
Egerszóláti Olaszrizling, Debrői Harslevelu (whites), and Egri Bikavér (red).
At the end of the day, we sit in Eger Castle, they say here - Egri Var, enjoy the
panoramic view of the city and drink the local red wine, Egri Bikavér.

204
WALK THROUGH HUNGARIAN VINEYARD AND THE
HISTORICAL MONUMENT

After lunch in a Eger restaurant " Imola," prescribing for you what we
ordered and ate with pleasure: Mangalica jelly served with home-made cream
crackling, Bread and Red Onion Salad Porcine venison ham terrine served with
smoked quail egg Horse radish Jerusalem artichoke pudding served with Roasted
beetroot and cashew cream, we started the voyage.
Slowly ending September month that I used to shoot, write and enjoy the
Hungarian ine regions. In the area of Miskolc to the border with Slovakia. Mainly
from Eger - Tokay. We just got a little closer to Tokay. Environment, which is all
hills, in all the colors of green, somewhat ruined castle dominates Regec, built in the
13th century. As if all, the castles of the Hungarian right in this century the county.
This is the most prestigious over 150 years, when it holders were from families
Rakoci. The Austrians, the latter Hungarian companions from K & K monarchy,
destroyed the castle, after the failure of the Hungarian, in the war for independence.
Nearby are the rudiments of several castles, which best reflects the fact that many
and often changed the boundaries, are nearby. Today Regec it is a village with a
population negligible. It known only by a medieval castle, but as a stage on the
famous Countrywide Blue Tour, which is a part of the Hungarian section of the
European Long Distance Walking Route E4. The route starts atop the Riot Mountain
(884 m) on the Austrian-Hungarian border then cuts across Hungary eventually
ending 1.128 miles later at the village of Hollóháza by the Hungarian-Slovakian
boundary. The name of the Kéktúra (Blue Tour) is a reference to the marking of the
path itself: it is a blue horizontal stripe between two white stripes.

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 For Šatoraljaujheđ, the largest city in the region is related to an unusual
curiosity in this village church was built in honor of the wine. Whitewashed building
with five towers called '' Wine'' church, and is located near the train station, above
the largest wine cellars in the area. Is this necessary after a general explanation
about how the Tokay wine complex? In addition, the whole world knows of Tokay
wines, which made by special mixture white wines, which are due before the first
snow. Of grape, he drew the last atom of the sun and the earth. Among fans of the
famous local wines, which resemble in Cognac, include Louis IV, Oliver Cromwell,
the Russian Tsar Peter the Great and Empress Catherine. The Russian Tsar even
held in Tokay and a small garrison, which guarantees the supply of wine to be sure!
Pope Pius I drank a „ Tokai ''as recommended by doctors, writers and composers
Beethoven, Schubert, Goethe and Voltaire were the supporters of this nectar. In the
Hungarian national anthem, unbelievably, mention the wine ... Legend called “Tokai'
' simply must be tasted!
Wine that has been a favorite among those who were, or wanted, to be''
Noble'', with the kings and other (none) mortals,'' without debate the best dessert
wine'' arises only between Tisza and Bodrog, in the area that was Thomas Mann
visited.

206
ALL SECRETS VALLEY OF THE BEAUTIFUL WOMEN

The Pannonia vineyards, dominated by white wine Eger „Bikaver '', or in translation '' Bull's
blood”, strong and heady red wine, wine is an exception to many of life seems more beautiful. In
a poetic record, the famous Hungarian poet Sandor Petofi (contemporary Serbian poet Djura
Jaksic) says - “When she took the red wine, always put me in Eger away. When I turned away
from the rosy wine, my Lord would surely punish me''. The best wines from this region, famous
throughout Europe, due to the specific and difficult repeatable structure of land on the slopes of
the Matra and Bike, a peculiar microclimate reminiscent of the Mediterranean, and the
exceptional skills of the local wine growers, high levels of alcohol and tannin, and masterfully
balanced bouquet, create the splendor of the divine pleasures. To remind you, we are 180 km
away from Budapest. We came from Miskolc, and now we are in the city of Eger, with intent to
visit the Hungarian vineyards. Describe it and rehearsing the famous wines. Eger we, however,
their looks and plenty of interesting things kept longer than we planned.
We first visited two sights of the city that were left from the time of the Turkish conquest: a
Turkish bath and Minaret. The Turkish Baths, Török fürdő say here, in this house, left since the
invading Turks, was built between 1610 and 1617th the restoration has preserved the
architectural traditions of Muslim worship and bathing. The building is not only pools, but also
the Turkish hamam, bathing with all its features (massage, steam, pour dressing) can found. In
addition to the café, massage and aesthetic elements and atmospheric lighting designed
furniture parts is further supported by Turkish atmosphere. Because really condensed program
we were unable to enjoy the services of an oriental building. There we have a minaret, visible
from anywhere in Eger. The delicate minaret, 40 meters high with 14 sides, reminds the
observer of nearly one hundred years of Turkish rule, from the 1596. From its balcony, a unique
panorama of the town can see. The minaret of Eger is the northernmost historical building of the
Turkish era in Europe. It was built shortly after the Turks victory in 1596 and it used to belong
to the Djami of Kethuda. The 40-meter-high minaret was made of red sandstone, and it has a
fourteen-sided ground plan.

207
 Needless to say, that in the immediate vicinity of the tower and built a hotel representative,
called - Minaret! For the ancient rule of the Turks, the region associated with another fact –
Turkey occupation of the town, the fortress and the vineyards lasted exactly 91 years. However,
activities in the vineyards are not interrupted even though the invaders tried to stop making
wine, mainly for religious reasons. Grapes, however, did not fall within this restriction because
the high taxes in this activity quite well filled the coffers of the local Turkish authorities. In such
a complicated situation: you have the grapes - you do not have wine, Regina
residents have come up with a good solution: the secret of making wine! They did it
through almost a century, hidden in basements in caves and holes in the limestone
hills around. At local birth rate, which in translation reads '' Valley of beautiful
women”; there were the oldest and innermost wine workshops. The northern
branch of that famous valley is still winery '' Ištenes Pince'' or '' Divine cellar'', secret
facility that also served as an illegal church. The altar was carved from a single block
of stone; the relief shows a scene of Jesus' crucifixion. Strange time in which the
winner persecuted faith and wine lovers. However, everything has a cure. This
valley near Eger is an example of this.

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FROM THE TOP OF THE CASTLE EGER TO THE CAVE
AGGTELEK

We are still in the wine-growing region in northern Hungary. Between the two large towns
which are linked history and contemporary life. Eger and Miskolc is Fate
first significant connected during the Turkish invasion of Vienna: first overcome a castle in Eger,
and then one in Diosgyori .It was in the fifteenth century. It was built in the 13th also century,
although severely destroyed by the Turks in their, too ambitious, march into the heart until
polished Europe. This fort was reconstructed almost returned to the original building. Proud
residents of Eger would say that the view from the top of minarets interesting. But, add further
to a psychological break, that is however, second-rate, because with the tower of the fortress can
be seen beautiful
In war, Turkish, intra-imperial, the First and Second world, not to mention those of local, feudal,
is destroyed countless buildings for that generation that thought it was a
'' Permanent nationwide damage'' but time and builders continued with the restoration and
construction... Therefore, Eger is still '' Pearl''. Environment „Dobo Square'' as to concentrate the
city history and medieval-baroque buildings, and lead them Church of Saint Anthony, the
Cathedral and the Lyceum. When this figure is added a very large park, the lake and the castle,
with archaeological and tourist site, that the cryptically called '' Eclipse crescent'', visual -
mental challenge I had to experience
before the end of my '' Hungary'' a month, was not easy.
Perhaps, however, it should say something about, but many times mentioned Castle of
Eger. Historically, it known for it is repelling of the Turkish attack in 1552 during the Siege of
this city. The first castle was built on the high hill named Várhegy at Felsőtárkány near Eger.
During the Mongol invasion in 1241, this castle was ruined, and the bishop of Eger moved it to a

209
rocky hill in the city of Eger. On the hill, a new castle was built, and it developed rapidly. In 1470,
a Gothic palace was built. In 1552, a Turkish army of 40.000 soldiers attacked the castle, which
had about 2500 defenders. The siege failed as the Turks suffered heavy casualties. After that
Turks sieges the castle again in the 1596th resulting in the victory of the Turks. In 1701, the
Austrians exploded half of the castle.
Archaeological excavations only started in 1925 and the army used the castle as barracks until
the 1957. Today the castle serves exclusively to the Truism, education and affirmation of
national identity.
As a break from stories about Hungarian wines and historic monuments, we headed to
the border with Slovakia. On a trip to Aggtelek National Park. First, the wondrous caves in them
are amazing fantasy worlds made of stone. Hard work water, limestone, and a long time. This
magical fairytale land of stalagmites Baradla Cave, the most magnificent dripstone cave of the
temperate zone is undeniably an attractive spot for everyone. Baradla Cave however is not the
only attraction of the National Park, which listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Besides cave
tours above ground guided walks on foot, horse or bicycle, walks in villages and handicraft
programs help the visitors to get acquainted with the natural and cultural heritage of the
Aggtelek carts region. Those interested that may also learn about and practice traditional bread
baking.
It was really refreshing trip to different regions, between the time a very strong and
exciting wines that make Eager residents, especially those from the surrounding villages. From
grapes that grown in the foothills of the mountain Matra and on its lower slopes.

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Czech Republic
ZORAN SLAVIC

211
SEIFERT`S PRAGUE

For all its ethnic and historical faces and facades enthusiasm, delusion,
sinking of, the rise and defeat of gilding and reverse, Prague has in its concave
mirror very great people. Those who have lived or are still living with him, through
special and unique clear blur. Eternity sleeping in a drop of dew. Depth that
provides dedicated clarity and superficially appears as labyrinth called the past of
Europe. Jaroslav Seifert was an unusual poet of Prague. One of his great artists and
enthusiasts. Great not because it is the winner of Nobel Prize but the'' Nobel Prize''
suffered because he is a great poet and thinker.
In his works are the thought, skepticism and sensitivity of the Czech town. ''
Neither the Seine through Paris, or the Tiber while passing by the houses and city
walls of Rome, do not make it so charming and graceful as it knows Vltava. She is
proud and majestic, at the same time. This is happening while touching Prague's
islands, caressing the camp, from the slopes of the hill Petrin. Constantly changing
light and color of the surrounding rooftops''. Just like Seifert begins the story of his
hometown, which for him is not only living decor, but also much more: the fate and
divine gift. A poet, whose poems celebrate threshold and the overall cultural
heritage of the Czech Republic, was born in 1901. In Žiškov, one of the workers'
suburb capital this country. He never finished high school. Seifert was fascinated by
the proletarian culture, socialism, and communism. Then perceived ideological
sobering, but he never left an unusual synthesis of tenderness and fierceness. Lyrics

212
wrote under the influence of Verlaine and Apollinaire, but and Mayakovsky. They
were close to him, Dadaism, and Surrealism. Modification poetic styles and forms
represent the expression of his literary and social flexibility. However, the constants
of his lyrics are yet the freedom and the Prague-Czech real and mythic
contradictions.
'' We stand beside the museum Smetana. Charles Bridge, in front of us, as if
ready to move with the tide. Seagulls lined up on the ice. Below us is a noisy dam in
whose thunder must that pronounce deep and harsh words Frantisek Šalda:
"Prague is, of course, a wonderful city but of those resorts that carry with a kind of
black magic, complicated mood, archaic, difficult and discouraging odors.
Melancholy and sadness, smells that fade, paints which decompose - the feelings
that everyone has to take in contact with the old artistic Prague. These accents
deeply touch the soul of every thinking person who gives to this town'' - quoting
Seifert, apparently agrees with interior painting hometown pronounced by F. Šajda.
Who was a literary critic who introduced symbolism in Czech literature? In this
literature teacher precisely observing and diagnose beauty and fortune Prague.
Seifert's Prague, therefore, bears inside all astringent. Maybe, too is expected
from a man from the suburbs, but not from the poet who knows that under every
gilded lies plain, inexpensive material. That his Prague is full of traces of harsh
truths because is the capital of the country he himself is called the "bloody cage for
birds," the country that has so often been the helpless prey of neighboring powers. It
was the time of the Hapsburg dynasty, during the Counter-Reformation, to Nazi
Germany and Stalin's Soviet Union in the twentieth century. Czechs, however, are
making fun of his own dejection and conformity Always they were a dearer struggle
by peaceful means - whether for religious freedom and national liberation, for either
democracy or social justice. No other nation in Europe so as Czechs believe that
philosophical argument and literary works not only that can lead to political change,
but to change the course of history...
When I, in 1983. by second time was in Prague, I could still walk to the banks
of the Vltava accompanied by Seifert. Even to go to his Ziskov. The next year, for that
it will be too late. Now this is a Seifert Prague without Seifert

213
PRAGUE /ZRENJANIN / (2)
A LOOK FROM CHARLES BRIDGE, AT A TIME

Spring in Prague. Rain over the Czech. Vltava is because, at the time of my stay in
this beautiful city, she looked entirely threatening. As if, she intended to leave her
riverbed. Moreover, that the blue and choking. However, none of this has happened.
Charles Bridge is still linked today with the old town of Prague, Hradčani, Vaclavski
Namesti. Europe is, deep in their roots were in this city. With a lot of mind and
beauty. However, when a little inquiry: and chill and fierceness appropriate for the
time. Fortunately, the history, art and architecture left over from the first. On the
other hand, we know how quickly enough to forget the ugly facts. Only, next to
Charles Bridge, and now stands a monument of Jan Nepomuk. Although the Soviets
drew here...
Since the time of the Prague spring of my city was simply obsessed with
tourists, I found lodging at the place Benesov, fifty kilometers from the Czech capital.
However, this town was only about ten kilometers from Konopistě, the imperial
summerhouse. Coming every day in Prague, I have my quest for Nepomuk began
with Charles Bridge, and ending at the Museum of Catholicism. First, I met with the
image reproduction Giuseppe Maria Krespo, since 1743. Which shows the Queen of
Bohemia and Jan (Johannes) Nepomuk at the time of confession that would prove
fatal. Then, as the possible reasons Vaclav cruelty involved a very different
circumstances... Specifically, the vicar Nepomuk is your time sided with Archbishop
Jenzenštajn in dispute with the king, on some urgent resolution of church and state.
Then, Jan Nepomuk, written in the annals of Prague, was born, though, about 1350

214
in the region of Plzen, in place Pomuk, a theologian who has completed the canon
law in Padua, would severely punish. According to one version, According to one
version, the punishment was'' only'' drowning in the river Moldau (now called the
Vltava), while the other, yet cruel: was burned and then thrown into the Vltava
(Moldau) as this is, for example, decided Vaclav IV, King of Bohemia and Germany
and Holy Roman Emperor. It was a year 1393rd although I did not really know which
of Vaclav credit for raising the magnificent sweep, every day, when the bridge went
to the famous Karlovy tavern below the castle, looked at the monument of Nepomuk
and wished to Vaclav IV is not the one who ended this facility. In the pub, the one
most in Prague, the sign bit childish respect for ancient Vicar, all the time I ordered
only Plzen beer.
At the Charles Bridge, on which are normally taken a good part of social life
in Prague, a there marble panel that means something to Nepomuk who was thrown
into a river. At the plate: a symbolic - the mouth and a finger through them. As a
lesson. Warning! Irony? One legend says that the Vltava opened when Jan touched
bottom. Second, says that the queen of heaven in power mint Confessor saw five
deaths associated stars - Directions on how to find his body. Holy body, because Jan
(Johannes) Nepomuk 1729th Pope Benedict XIII declared a saint. While over Brno
and Bratislava, driving a car, back home, me some things about this saint are
becoming clearer. Everything here is bound but still true for Europe and this
country! King and country, church and state, Germans and Czechs. Prague is a city of
all layers merged and unhealed, epochs. However, But, still, people should certainly
Zrenjanin Jan Nepomuk back into that empty apse. Brick in your place in history. For
many reasons it should be done. (However, it is done on 16 May 2008.)

215
OVER THE VLTAVA, IN MUSEUM OF THE CZECH MUSIC

A little tired of spending time with the Prague living writers, and those who have
already become classics, like Kafka and Rilke, that spring, I decided to dive into the
music. Because Prague was always the capital of music. To begin with, I decided to
go to the Museum of Music. While the tram number 20 I go to the Mala Strana
neighborhood, across the bridge Manesuv, in my mind, there is one old resident of
Prague - Mozart. And the music of the spheres, and the sky above the city, at
twilight, Which arrives late, in his divine form of the more established 1780th in the
famous, ''Stavovske Divald ”, green and white building an impressive theater, where
Mozart conducted the premiere of his opera'' Don Juan''. Residents of Brno, Prague
compete with which musical about fame, however, can claim that Mozart, as a boy of
eleven years he played in their city, but the association of the immortal composer
and the Czech capital more intensive. I arrive at the Mala Strana. This name derives
from its position on the left bank of the river Vltava, on the slopes just below the
Prague Castle, in opposition to the larger towns of Prague on the right bank, To
which the Charles conjoined it Bridge. In addition, this is part of the city with a long
history. In addition, many attractions. The Czech Museum of Music is located in the
former Baroque church of St. Mary Magdalene, built in the 17th Century. Look
around a variety of instruments, we view sweeps across the famous score, snaking
through the extensive library. Special places in this building dedicated to music, of
course, it pointed out to two of the largest Czech Composers: Antonin Dvorak and
Bedrih Smetana.
While we make a break in the tour of "music box," we go to the Hergetova
Cihelna Restaurant, which is located in a prime location, by the river, also in the
Lesser Town (Mala Strana) area of Prague. As I watch the Vltava River that simply
sings of spring water, think about "The Symphony in E Minor (From the New

216
World)'' Antonin Dvorak, who was still in his works perpetuate the musical phrase
of the Czech nation and its national ethos. Returning from America, he became
director of the Prague Conservatory (1901). I return to the museum to enjoy the
unusual forms of musical instruments as The Czech Museum of Music, although little
known to foreign visitors, shelters is true gems that ravish eyes and ears. I was
particularly amazed by the diversity of shapes piano designed along the years:
grand pianos, square pianos or pyramid, the astonishing Empire-style Lyre Giraffe
or pianos.
And then I come to the section devoted to other Czech and Prague musical giant,
Bedrih Smetana, who comes as a youth in this city, it's the education, and with the
help of Franz Liszt founded the modern piano school. Practically the founder of
modern Czech national music, Smetana in Prague musical taste, which formed on
the model of the German and Austrian composers, introduced the melody from
Slavic sources. Moreover, in the 1866th became conductor of the Czech opera. That
same year, performed his most famous opera '' The Bartered Bride''.
Leaving the museum, I walk back across the bridge Mánesův. It was named after
the Prague painter 19th century, Josef Manes. The same one who has illustrated
twelve months in the ancient Astronomical clock in old Prague. And, I think Prague
still loves and listens to its great composers.
Musical giants of the Czech Republic have their own museums, the streets are
named after them organized numerous festivals of classical music. Artistic greats
are here part civilizational self-awareness this multi-talented nation.

217
METAMORPHOSIS OF FRANZ KAFKA

In an article about Prague I quoted Frantisek Šalda, says, "Prague is, of

course, wonderful city, but of those resorts that carry with them kind of black magic
complicated mood.” Now it seems to me as a possible sign for a sketch about the
experience of the city, whom what could have one of its most phantasmagorias
inhabitants - a great writer Franz Kafka. He was extremely complex and introverted
nature. He felt the constant pressure of German-Jewish origin in the Czech
environment. He had the sensitivity on the edge everyday panic and great
knowledge and talent, and who knows what else. All this represents a framework of
his everyday relationships with Prague and shows that the life of the greats of
modern European civilization was incredibly complex. Because, when the person's
last name call such a complex social-psychological phenomenon as “kafkianism” one
is a city still too narrow a framework for his spiritual eye. Even if the city called
Prague! Or maybe – not, because much of was mystery and mood.
The author, resident in many ways, but German at heart, because Vltava
River, for example, continuously writes as the Moldau, his spatial and metaphysical
relationship with the city, which dates back to the 9th century, apparently
established in the final summary of the triangle: birthplace, school and college, and
insurance company that employs a variety of experiences and trauma. All other
places, at which it moves, overshadowed by these social causes. However, this is
only the impact that'' feed'' his magical imagination system panic-astute
anticipation-conscious - unconscious synthesis, which would become one of the key

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verticals intellectualism of the modern world and existence. From the first prose,''
Metamorphosis'', a story about a man who turns into a bug, written in the distress
Department of Insurance Workers of the accident, located on Požiće, the yellow-
brown building, Franz Kafka, instinctively, his hometown tapered at several
locations, which often are not their central parts.
Thus, for example, when a walk through the old town center, next to the
palace Schönborn, according to the testimony of Gustav Janouh, he said: '' This is not
a city. This is ramshackle bottom come oceans of time covered by boulders rockslide
cooled dreams and passions, between which we walk as in a diving bell. This is
interesting, however, to over time lost steam. We must, like all divers, come to the
surface, otherwise we will burst out the blood in the lungs''. Say unhappy genius
while his interlocutor not on time emerged from the caisson the mysterious depths
of Prague, otherwise it would become Hasek!

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TRIP TO PRAGUE LOOKING FOR HRABAL

Summing, of course without success, all their powders memories and

illusions, from each other's life you get easier, when you senseless pounce,
nostalgically recall in 1987, in addition, travel, then still, Czechoslovak capital -
Prague. In Zrenjanin's literary magazine'' Ulaznica'', thanks to the attentiveness of
Milan Colic, an excellent translator of Czech, these months are the first in the former
Yugoslavia, published a drama great prose writer Bohumil Hrabal '' Dance classes
for adults and advanced ''. The magazine is out, the echo was mediocre. Probably
due to the narrow desk '' Ulaznica'' but Radivoj Sajtinac, a poet, and I, who was
editor this magazine, at the urging of our mutual friend Professor Steve Zhivkov, or
a great lover of Czechoslovakia, we decided to hand personally to Hrabal Serb-
edition copy of this drama. In the winter in 1987 was the beginning of February, we
went to Prague into an adventure with almost superior outcome. In the search for
Hrabal.
We went on the road though we had heard that Mr. Hrabal sick and that may
not be in Prague. The beginning of a lack marked the journey mastermind of the
whole project - Steve Zhivkov. It was some cold. Instead, the "team" jumped my
friend, structural engineer Mica Vidanović, less prone Hrabal and over everything
else, which Prague abounds. We collected addresses possible'' asylum'' the writer,
informed of the'' experts'' on the nature of Hrabal, which apparently is not as
velvety of his story could ended. Everything we thought we knew. We set off on an

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adventure that is, of course, when it comes to the basic goal ended miserably: Hrabal
was impossible to find!
In visiting Prague and this writer, I started not knowing that he came from
the vicinity of Brno, from Libena, therefore from Moravia. Moreover, from the book I
knew it worded on distinctive narrator, known for painting people from the bottom
of the official life. The events are shown in situations that hero do not control, does
not fully understand. In Prague, in the wake of Hrabal, I went obsessed, among other
things, his humorously metaphorical story used in the movie'' Closely Watched
Trains'', signed by director Jiri Menzel. Hrabal is covertly mocking humor, and
Menzel amazing plasticity, and a sense of spiciness and allusive detail, brought in
1967 this movie to '' Oscar''.
Prague under the snow, of the week of our '' failed adventure “, it is advisable
to observe the inside. The dilemma if we visit the museums, concert halls, castles,
we have not, because Hrabal had to seek in his town'' environment''. So, in pubs or
restaurants. After a failed pilgrimage to bars and pubs, if anything can be said when
a party comes to pubs, which were his routine, destination, we found the following.
Under one - beer in Prague are much milder than those in Munich. Under the two -
to the dumplings topped with hunter sauce – outstanding. And under three - that in
all places where we looked, Hrabal was a while ago, and it was probably now in
Moravia.
The periodical ''Ulaznica'', with his comedy ''Dance teacher '', we left and by
“Mucha'', '' In the Golem'' '' In the Kalicha'', '”In the Eagle Cerneho”, '' In the Fleků'',
'' In the Pinkasu''. Moreover, of course, in the most important location Hrabal
brewery '' U zlatého Tygra''. Without regardless of the failure of the basic mission
Sajtinac and to me this tracking Hrabal`s Prague itinerary was very exciting. Even
our friend Vidanovich, builders, this Prague`s writer of the day became more and
more interesting. With a couple of meetings with the Prague`s writers, who have
Sajtinac and me staged, this stay in Prague I remembered by two till then unnoticed
exterior''. The first is a unique astrological clock in the Old Town, by Starometska
restoration, the second is Old-New Synagogue, the Jewish quarter, the clock also,
which, however, goes in the back. In this city never enough miracles.
From Prague, Sajtinac, Vidanović and I, we are back full of impressions even
though we have not performed that we should go on a trip. Hrabal are "left" to make
a film with Menzel '' Shorn-Mown “, and to describe how '' served the King of
England ". In 1997, this connoisseur of the Czech "little man" had maiden flight with
the roof of your house for his pigeons. Some say - he decided to willingly die. How it
was really, only know Hrabal and his Prague, because the birds flew away.

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MARIANSKE LAZNI/ MARIENBAD
EUROPE INTO THE CZECH SPA

In Marienbad Proust, for example, was looking for Odette, actually recognize traces
of the lost time. Delphine has not met Alan Robbe-Grillet, who is well-read Proust.
And Kafka's novel ''The process“was not unknown to him. However he still wrote
the screenplay for Alain Resnais film '' Last year at Marienbad''. For that, however
successful Baden Baden, in several scenes, substituting Marien-bad, wanting to be
famous in the movie about losing and finding the right atmosphere created by Rob
Grillet imagined.
If you count just some of the famous guests at Marienbad (Marianske Lazne), which
are only between 1897 and 1909 stayed at the Spa, you will be more clearly, how I
felt when I entered the space that exudes of refinement to the saturated solution.
Not enough to say elegance - its splendor! I read some of the names: King Edward
VII, Emperor Franz Joseph, T. A. Edison, Sigmund Freud, Antonin Dvorak, Johann
Strauss, Gustav Mahler, Franz Kafka, Mark Twain and Henrik Ibsen. All of them were
wandering through the magnificent “Spa colonnade'', bounded pretentious and
objectively impressive neoclassical buildings (most of them are from 1889.), Sick,
tired or just'' trendy'', in noisy silence of the world famous resorts fashionable.
On the route of the famous “ Singing fountain'', an area known for its exquisite
music, and even more lavishly illumination, and'' The Royal Spa sanatorium'' at the
end of the street Lesni, grated or ignored power, science, humor, drama, music ,
psychoanalysis and modern literary apocalypse. Maybe not entirely like that, maybe
they are giants, while on vacation and treatment, just ordinary people. However, I
doubt it. Their faces and works in the background, even banalities the spoken in the

222
Czech spa mountain landscape, they had left the echo of their past or current fame.
While on a sunny day of August, immediately after the flooding rains in Plzen, go to
Goethe's summer house, besides several hotels „Naples'', ''Star'' and '' Central Lazne
'', located on the hillside above the town, right next to one of the mineral springs, of
which there are 40, everything in the valley seems a bit unreal to me. It seemed as a
backdrop, perfectly made for a Strauss operetta. However, the thought of all the
greats who have walked these same paths, was stronger of all. Even the strong smell
of iodine, sulfur and carbonates, which are there just to remind me that I was at a
spa!.
However, to me, memorable and lasting impression left miraculous astral images
of architecture, sculpture, fountains, sky and forest Mariánský Lazne. The film'' Last
Year in Marienbad'', their indeterminate temporality, beyond dimensional specialty,
and mostly internal orchestration of light and human faces, it was more of a regular
film shows. And of course, when I directly out of the car, walked through the
illusion of the reality of his films - everything was different. Fortunately, at the time I
realized that I was different from what I was getting some 1964th I watched this
film, and that film art is just a particular kind of illusion. Actual Marienbad is
different from the film, no less beautiful and exciting, on the contrary, more real and
alive but it is good that there is real-life parallel to that of the celluloid! The latter
helps us to understand more deeply the reality, as it is after all, the film also Rene''
Hiroshima, my love''. For scripted by novelist Margaret Duras, France, where I was
visiting, even in Normandy, in Coburg.
In this magical crystal ball, which resembles Marienbad, however, I met Proust, in
fiction, of course. And Delphine. Odette was in another city. And in the movie. I was
still left to go to Baden Baden to see why there is a shot fragments movie about
Marijenbad!

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MUSIC WITH THE HEAVEN PRAGUE

Definitely, but not without question, Prague is a place on earth where you can
see better in the past, and by the logic of the absurd peek in the future (which is
actually overcome the present). However, this is also space with a pane in the
cosmos. Because when with the Charles Bridge you pass through a Baroque porch,
across the backyard an unusual sized handkerchief, but with Renaissance arcades,
you get to the dark tunnel. That leads to the inn's courtyard, that was once carried
the name "the Star Observer." There you can reach the nook from which the city of
Prague has long looked to Infinity. In fact, in this room, which looks like a cave with
a low arch, around the 1609th year Johannes Kepler lived and wrote his famous
work'' Astronomia nova''. This work was far above its achievements in science. Into
the sky over the city, full of stars and change, begins, therefore, with understanding
and respect, at the very beginning of the 17th century. And the music of the spheres,
and the sky above the city, at twilight, which arrives late, in his divine form of the
more established 1780th in the famous,'' Stavovske Divald'', green and white
building an impressive theater, where Mozart conducted the premiere of his opera''
Don Juan''. Residents of Brno, which compete with Prague musical about fame,
however, can claim that Mozart, as a boy of eleven years he played in their city, but
the association of the immortal composer and the Czech capital more intensive. In
the novel by Eduard Morike, '' Mozart's journey to Prague'' (1855), very
expressively described the composer's journey from Vienna to Prague, as well as the
entire creative work setting'' Don Juan''. With his wife, Constance, nearly three years
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was a resident of Prague. About this creative work of the
genius composer in Prague and stay in this city, many of the details can be found in

224
the museum at Mozart - Betramka, the former home of opera singer Josephine dusk,
in the present century Mozart Street 159. The memories of your stay in this town,
immortal Amadeus has dedicated several compositions.
Born in a village outside Prague, a considerable part of his life was devoted to
America. His most famous work soon and he called "The Symphony in E Minor
(From the New World)''. However, Antonin Dvorak was still in his works
perpetuating the musical phrase of the Czech nation and its national ethos.
Returning from America, he became director of the Prague Conservatory (1901).
Today rests, end Smetana, the Višehradsko cemetery in Prague, opposite the Church
of Saints Peter and Paul. Another Czech and Prague musical giant, Bedrih Smetana
comes as a youth in this city, it is an education, and with the help of Franz Liszt
founded the modern piano school. Practically the founder of modern Czech national
music, Smetana in Prague musical taste, which formed on the model of the German
and Austrian composers, introduced the melody from Slavic sources. And in 1866,
become conductor of the Czech opera. That same year, performed his most famous
opera '' The Bartered Bride''. Prague still loves and listens to its great composers.
They have museums, streets they called that, festivals. They are part of the self-
consciousness of this very talented person.
When it comes to, the great people that have marked the history of “The''
golden'' city“, the residents of Prague as if they were a bit forgot on the general
Žižka. It was 1420; at the head of the army, Hussies defeated the papal troops. The
general, however, not related to the composer, but her prowess has created a space
for art in their national freedom.
Nevertheless still, I was wrong: there is a monument to General! However, in
stylistic cross-purposes with the mausoleum of communist times, the hill named
according to him, in the suburb of the same name, is an impressive monument to the
one-eyed hero. Therefore, in that the Czechs are not forgotten Jan Žiška! Suburbs.
And the monument on the hill! And Žiškov, that this part of Prague called, lived and
Mrs. Svatek, who took care of Franz Kafka. Who, despite fragile health, liked to say
that on a tour of the former royal city should not move without you drink a glass of
wine or cognac...

225
LOOKING FOR HEALTH AND LEISURE IN
KARLOVY VARY

While we drinking mineral and medicinal water in the extraordinary

surroundings Vřídelní colonnade, I tried to establish to what I know of Karlovy Vary.
Visiting European`s spas I have realized that it is in, basically, for the sake of the
combination of medical treatment and entertainment. For really sick organize the
therapy, while they healthier in a spa setting seeking and find fun and
entertainment. Under the pretext - to be treated! In Karlovo Vary, or that maybe
once was known - in Karls Bad, all the same. With the addition of history, that there
is here in amazing quantities. But, to be reminded of what we are talking spa
Karlovy vary, German: Karlsbad, English: Carlsbad is a spa city situated in western
Bohemia, Czech Republic, on the confluence of the rivers Ohře and Teplá,
approximately 130 km west of Prague . It is named after King of Bohemia and Holy
Roman Emperor Charles IV, who founded the city in the 1370. It is historically
famous for its hot springs, 13 main springs, about 300 smaller springs, and the
warm-water Teplá River. As I said, some come here to heal, some entertaining while
there are those who the spa`s making memories. For yourself and the entire
civilized world. All intellectual and sensitive, and there were a multitude, the
procession of Marianski Lazni to Karlovy Vary, they knew that all the precious
stored only in memories. He knew it and Kafka 1916th when with Felice Bauer, his
fiancée, already broached disease and incurable melancholy, visited the famous
Czech spa, a promenade itinerary has occasionally ended with Frantisek Lazny,

226
where Goethe admired parks. Fortunately, the 1829th Johan Wolfgang was in
Carlsbad Hegel because he is going to visit, and almost incidental met Shelling.
In Karlovy Vary people even treated. Drink healthy water. Swim in the tepid pools
and salt. Inhaled gases kinds of treatment, if that is what cured. However, as to fancy
spas, known, lesser known, rich, and they are completely unknown; prefer to spend
their time taking walks, parties, gossip which for decades became the anecdotes.
Gamble. He fell in love, have sex, and often ''forbidden''.
He drank not only Karlovy Vary's beer but also brandy called "Becherovka".
Actually the bath water is often very ''unhealthy'' but exciting life, after which return
to the domicile of residence a real relaxation. Because the days and nights on the
edge of sin, vice and creative concentration, even Karlovy Vary, 1370 who are still
detected as therapeutic long ago ceased to be just a classic support the spa offers. In
Karlovy Vary, in the northwest of the Czech Republic, where flow River Ohra and
Tepla, from the time of Emperor Charles IV, intertwines the German-Czech ethnic,
cultural, architectural and gastronomic traditions. This interface is much more than
the European foam and cream. A corps of spa tourism not only encourages from
nature, earth and air, but for a long time, supported - and film. This remarkable, one
of the world famous film festival, established in the sanatorium. In a city that has the
opera, which is not surprising when you consider that there are soul and body treat
Beethoven, Liszt, Dvorak, and Beethoven. So in Vary exists film Festival already
since 1950 year. Film Festival, which means much more than just a spa observation
''Moving picture''.

227
PLZEN STORIES ABOUT BEER AND THE
UNDERWORLD

Pilsner, maturely light beer cellar, world famous and respected '' noted '' in
the Plzen 1845th year. This took place in the city over which he roofed the highest
church tower in Bohemia (Czech Republic, of course) that at the Cathedral of St.
Bartholomew, a high 102, 26 meters. In the ancient city near the border with
Germany, in a place whose second, or first, the name is Pilsen (in German), Plzen
beer is dry, gently, with a clear flavor of hops, as opposed to the dark, spiced, it could
be” irascible'' Munich'' draft beer, enriched 'with the taste of chocolate and licorice.
It is not my intention of comparing Pilsner and Munich beer and beer parlor, of
course, complete with historical connotations.
Although, in everything has a mild and geopolitical element. As in everything,
he touches! They are inevitable and less important. Especially among beer, drinkers
united Europe.
When I was coming from Prague on the way to the famous Czech spas (''
Lazne''), and Germany, where I was expecting prosaic, but not cheap, repairing cars
damaged in Konopiště, entered this great and ancient city, rainstorm is burst curtain
melted its Gothic, Baroque, secession, and post-modern, in wet and smeared
enformel. It was not until late at night, the pub who watched the “Skoda brand
“facilities, and the day after, I was able to let go intelligible impressions about the
city, which was mentioned 992, by Church of the Virgin Mary, and of the 13. Century

228
is included in all the local and global Hussies-papal and Czech-German conflict. The
cross and the sword in the history of this city has extensively used, mingle, trip up,
broke. Clear the mornings, after the rain always are so. I stand in front of the old City
Hall, allegedly built in Renaissance style, by the design of Italians Giovanni de Stacia.
They tell me, however, that he was actually responsible for the portal, while
everything else, the whole building, dating from the Baroque era. I think that the
Czechs tolerance not only in the soul but also on the facades. In addition, when it
comes to the baroque architecture, he is still only present in public buildings.
However, the citizens of Pilsen not to novelty just glad applied to their homes. In an
incredibly organized geometrically city in which all fifteen original street leading to
the main square, where it is today obelisk, which remind us of the plague of 1680
dominant and sculptural achievements of brothers Christian and Lazarus Vidmansa.
The day ends with a visit to the famous underground in this city. Plzen's
underground is an integral part of the historical development of structural Plzen,
established in 1295 at the confluence of rivers Mze, Radbuza, and Uhlava Uslava
and, in the middle of Plzen hollow. In the end of the 13th century Czech king
Wenceslas II decided to move the center of royal power in West Bohemia to the new
king New Plzen town, as the town called at that time. The new town was built in
broad-minded style. Around an oblong square located there were regular blocks of
houses delimited by a rectangular network of streets. The Gothic outlook of citizen
houses was usually damaged by following reconstructions. The rest of the story, and
our impressions of this city, follow the below article about Plzen.

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IN CELLAR – BEER, IN PARKS - DINOSAURS

Pilsen is a city on the edge of Germany, which is clearly reflected in the

architecture, and lifestyle of its inhabitants. Here is a Czech relaxation framed
Germanic meticulousness and precision. While we walk the streets that are full of
beautiful, functional and impressive buildings, one wonders if the residents of Plzen,
through order and discipline, and the nonchalance of the fun happens, or is their
inherent relaxation only well controlled, acquired habits and lifestyle? All the same,
these Czechs here are just a little different from those we know. So is this the city: it
has everything: history, entertainment, work and - beer. The most prominent sights
of Plzen are the Gothic St. Bartholomew's Cathedral, founded in the late 13th
century, whose tower is the highest in the Czech Republic, the Renaissance Town
Hall, and the Moorish Revival Great Synagogue, the second largest synagogue in
Europe, after the Dohány Street Synagogue in Budapest. There is also a 20 km
historic underground tunnel/cellar network, among the longest in Central Europe.
Part of this network is open to the public for tours of about 750 meters in length and
up to a depth of 12 meters.
This large and powerful city, at the confluence of four rivers, based on an
extremely diverse, ancient, and still functioning underground. System cellar for wine
and beer, tunnels, canals - water sanitation, and shelter, and all sorts of stock,
created from 13 to 19 centuries, being reconstructed and are still in used. One half-
hour descent into the underworld fraction of Plzen, reminded me of the Roman
catacombs, although local is much simpler. Here, rationality often prevails of
religious, such as Jan Hus in Plzen several times slipped Pope.
Particularly interesting this city gives the existence of a large, significant
European, Zoological garden, which is part and Dinosaur Park, better known as Dino

230
Park! The Garden is located near the center of the city, has a varied landscape with
small lakes, rocks, arboretum and parks. The Zoo has the second largest space for
bears in Europe, and a natural habitat for monkeys and large cats. A greenhouse for
succulents and a special informational path can found in the Botanical garden
together with the "Evolution of Nature in the Quaternary period." Lizards living here
are among the rarest animals found anywhere, particularly the Komodo dragons.
These large lizards exist in only a few Zoos in the world. The Lochotin amphitheater,
next to the Zoo, is the largest natural amphitheater in the Czech Republic.
Dino Park is very convenient destination for school trips, but it is also an interesting
target for lesson of biology. Pupils and students will see here only paleontologist
models. They can also learn the same facts about different species of dinosaurs and
about the evolution of life on Earth.
As a reminder, and I was in two days in the town remembered: Czech and
European famous puppeteer, animator, author of many children's films, and the
founder of many things in the world of puppetry, Jiri Trnka, born in 1912. Also in
this city.

231
BRNO - CITY THAT IS HARD TO FORGET

This medieval old town is a part of the Czech Republic, but also the capital of the
province of Moravia, with which its residents are proud. Great history, history, and
even mythical, precedes the arrival of this very enjoyable and a great city. That was
a sufficient reason to change the route of the intended way: instead of the highway
in Prague, left turn to the city in which they are still around 863rd stayed Byzantine
scholars and missionaries, Cyril and Methodius, before the fateful figure into our
literacy and religion. Moreover, here, in Brno, were on a mission, and the latter
Calvary.
In Brno, located between Svratka and Svitava river, which was founded in the
9th century a free royal town within the Holy Roman Empire, became the 1278th,
primary Baroque is shaded the Northern muted colors and framed sharp and strong
architectural lines of business. In the history of this area, which is the warrior, we
find that Prussians and Swedes, as conquerors. No end to the various those armies
across the European space fight and reconcile. However, even here the rule is
hunting and were caught! Moravians have survived and kept Brno.
Witness all these centuries was the militaristic Spilberk Castle, an old castle on the
hilltop in Brno. It began to build as early as the first half of the 13th century by the
Premyslid kings and complete by King Ottokar II of Bohemia. From a major royal
castle established around the mid-13th century, and the seat of the Moravian
margraves in the mid-14th century, it was gradually turned into a huge baroque
fortress considered the heaviest prison in the Austro-Hungarian empire, and then
into the Barracks. This prison had always been part of the Spilberk fortress. Today

232
this building, polished and restored, except for extraordinary symbolism has an
outstanding role in the tourist offer of the town, Moravia and the Czech Republic.
And, before I go to the top beer, that are here products and the draft, some more
historical stories: if in the coming from the direction of Bratislava, the first
encounter with the inscription'' Austerlitz'' coup Capital history almost could not be
more intense. In the vicinity of the town, which is now called Slavkov, 1805th
Napoleon himself, was the presence of Alexander and Franz, the emperor of course,
with its 70,000 160,000 grenadier defeated the Russian-Austrian soldiers.
Therefore, he broke the three-member coalition (Prussians already experienced its
share of losses). Otherwise, the day for a tour of this ancient battlefield in the history
of the world, was ideal: rainy, gray, only instead of December was the end of
October.
Brno is rich in pubs, which offer various types of beer, from light pilsners
to black unfermented. Because it is cheaper than the city of Prague, this can be a
good beer to drink more. We went for a beer with our hosts. We drove about a half
hour tram. Nevertheless, it was worth it: Starobrno Brewery is a restaurant's
reputation. In addition, the beer and all the rest were on the level.

233
BRNO, TOWN REAL AND MIRACULOUS

On the second day in Brno, we visited a several historical monuments. We were in

the Labyrinth under Vegetable Market. First, in a church: The Church of St. Jacob
built at the beginning of the 13th century. It served in Flanders and German
colonists. The original look of the church has not preserved.
The Church of St. Jacob, we know, was built at the end of the 14th century in high
gothic style. Antonio Gabri completed the typical tower, which reaches up to 92 feet,
in the tombstone of Louise de Raduita Souches, the defender of Brno against the
Swedish, housed in the church.
This impressive building, Gothic strict line contains the foundations of a
surprising and somewhat eerie and mystical cellar where they stored the skull and
bones of prominent people from the past. From some residents, who performed
some religious task, by the way, and we heard another story that this adds another
dimension to the city - Fantasy: They say that the Moravian has had to defend
freedom in addition, of monster. Of the dragon! Perhaps, thanks to the just the
dragon that is one of the symbols of the city. The body of the dragon from the
legend, or more likely the stuffed remains of an actual animal, means mummified
replacement, is located above the entrance to the old city of Brno. I opt for the best
one fable of the early lead Brno, who says he is a dragon that is terrorizing the city
killed a brave and clever journeyman butcher. He deliberately started Dragon, who

234
was staying in a cave above the river Svratka, cow skin, in which he had hidden a
bag of quicklime lime. Dragon as a dragon swallowed the false buffalo, began to
torment him terribly thirsty, then jumped into the river and there is Lime Quicklime
made her - dragon exploded and collapsed. It is the end of the legend, which is
perhaps the answer to the question: why dragon of Brno, chained to a ceiling,
resembles an alligator. The one, the legend, has a good excuse: he exploded! I all in
this story and its repercussions today seem logical: do the one of Kundera
masterpieces no called “A Joke''?
On the recommendation of the waiter Tulip restaurant, we went to a strange
underworld historic center. Labyrinth under Vegetable market is a system of
underground corridors and cellars, in the historical center of the City of Brno. The
underground lies beneath one of the oldest squares in the city, and originally served
for keeping food, beer brewing, maturing in barrels of wine, and other things. Some
cellars founded in the middle Ages but most of them date back to the Baroque era.
The cellars were not all connected together until 2009 when they underwent a
major reconstruction, and since 2011, they have been opened public. The biggest
cellar is almost 23 meters long, its height varies from 3.5 meters, and the deepest
cellar is 13 meters under the surface.
On leaving from the underground storage and shelters, hiding the square, I
could only conclude that the Brno rich in surprises.

235
TWO PLEASANT DAYS IN TOWN TEPLICE

Health resort in Spa Teplice years me was recommended by my friend

Professor Zhivkov. He went there to be treated. Coincidentally, I am in Teplice, but
without him. This spa town about a hundred kilometers away from Prague, near the
border with the former East Germany, then sixty years has existed near the '' Iron
Curtain'' which separated East from West. City and today, as it exists in the shadow
of big brand Karlovy Vary, Marijebad, Františkovy Lazne and other spas. Although
they were of equal value. That way I could confidently tell you that while I was just
going for decades Teplická, short street, in Zrenjanin. Now, when I find in this
fabulous spa Teplice, I can confirm to you that. Teplice Spa is exceptional!
We turned off the highway to Prague, and a hot day traveling across the plains by
heating up hot August. The road will be flat almost to the end. Then suddenly appear
the Ore Mountains (or on Czech language - Krušné Hory). We are located in the
traditional Bohemia.
City Teplice, with about fifty thousand inhabitants, was the German for a
time, but also a very important center of Jewish population, rich in preserved
medieval buildings and gardens, as it is for centuries, and even today it feels,
constantly competing with your spa. The city boasts in addition significant economic
of his quartets Šenov, the old part of the city and calming, which was once the city
for themselves, while Teplice Spa, German meticulously designed, providing
superior service to consumers throughout the year.
We decided to spend the three-day stay at the Beethoven Spa Teplice. The
Beethoven Spa building is a part of the historical heart of the city. It originated

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through a sensitive, architectonic joining of the different, original spa buildings. It is
located in a peaceful area of Teplice, surrounded by an extensive park.
As soon as I came in this Czech town with a spa, where the creek flows with warm
medicinal springs, I heard that were in this resort, in the 19th Ages met and
befriended Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and Beethoven. By Beethoven and spa
hotel, later named. And at first glance, I can confidently tell you that here nature is
more beautiful than all the other Czech sanatoriums. While, at the all-famous spas,
only architectural heritage are brighter and more monumental. We are located right
in the center of the spa Teplice. Besides our hotel. In the assumption in this spa
becomes a special experience: the nature that creates an environment of hilarity,
interior and exterior exquisite, elegant but unpretentious, and staff discreetly and
professionally. A special attraction is the swimming pool located in the rocks and
caves, which added to the atmosphere of attractiveness. A rarity in Teplice, its
thermal springs of mineral waters, with temperatures of 38-52.3 ° C, not only have
significant healing effects, they also establish the spirit of the old history of the
famous baths, Which have been used since as long ago as the 16th century. As
thermal water contains a large quantity of magnesium and calcium, the baths are
predestined for recovery the whole body.
While sipping coffee in The Beethoven Restaurant, in which it can enjoy
Czech and international specialties, and, of course, includes diet and vegetarian
meals, we learned: almost 2000 years ago, the valley Teplice boon medicinal hot the
Romans used springs and then the Celts. Mention of the fact we now have thanks to
the coin features of this natural phenomenon, or what was then the habit to throw
coins, to happiness, to the water. Thus, the local Teplická sources accurately and can
enumerate in a clearly used oldest spa in Central Europe.

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CROSSING THE CHARLES BRIDGE
AS PROOF OF STAY IN PRAGUE

In urban, but much more spiritual, and that means tourist, map of Prague, a very
important meeting place is the Charles Bridge. On 9 July 1357. German Emperor and
King of Bohemia, Charles district, laid the foundation stone for the bridge over the
Vltava River in Prague. Probably because of the spring water, Vltava was in during
my stay in Prague looked completely threatening. As if, she intended to leave her
trough. Moreover, the blue and choking. However, none of that has happened.
Charles Bridge is and further connected today's Prague with the old town, and
Hradcany Wenceslas.
Europe has been deeply into their roots having always been in this city. With
much of the mind and beauty. However, when few inquiries you will find out that all
the miracles and obey the Middle Ages and here occurred. Fortunately, in the
history, art and architecture left over from the first - talented, smart and intellectual.
On the other hand, we enough quickly forget the ugly facts. Only, next to the Charles
Bridge stands today a monument of Jan Nepomuk. Saint, the patron of sailors and
anglers. The same of the saint whose memorial was destroyed and built anew in the
Vojvodina's town of Zrenjanin. At the Charles Bridge, which has been the usual place
much of the social life in Prague, there is a marble plate that marks something of
Nepomuk who was thrown into the river. On the board: symbolic - the mouth and
fingers over them. The lesson? Warning. The irony? One legend says that when he
opened the Vltava Jan touched bottom. Second, he says that the Queen in the sky at
the time of the Confessor's death saw five affiliated stars - guidance on how to find

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his body. Holy body, because Jana (Johannes) Nepomuk 1729th Pope Benedict XIII
declared a saint.
Going to walk for days in the old city, I looked the bridge detailed and inquired
about its structure. The bridge is 520 meters long, with 16 arches and a range of 10
meters. It is made of sandstone blocks and finished 1402nd year. At both ends of the
protected gothic spires. On the bridge of twenty, mainly baroque, sculpture, and
were mainly made by M. B. Braun and F. M. Brokof. Until the mid-20th century the
bridge was conducted entire urban traffic, and since 1965 use it only to pedestrians
Originally named the stone bridge, and from 1870. Charles Bridge. Only the Vltava
River remained the same, although she changed her name. Sometimes called the
Moldau, by German.
Over this „ stone path “ between the modern Prague, which is quite similar to
European capitals, every day I was crossing, the Charles Bridge, the other, in fact,
part of the city, history and traditions overwhelm - Golden Prague. Among others, I
had visited the Prague Castle (Pražský Hrad) in the fourth Hradcany. Guinness Book
of Records lists it as the largest castle in the world, measuring over 70,000 square
meters. It is interesting that this part of the Czech capital until the century was an
independent city.
The story of Charles Bridge cannot be completed without a sketch of a man who
it was a long crossing. Moreover, this for two reasons. The second was that at one
time was employed in Hradcany as president of the Czech state. A more important
reason is - on the other side of the bridge was located in his favorite pub! Of course,
it was Vaclav Havel, dissident writer and political leader of the latter. The paradox
or irony intervened in this story: Vaclav Havel decades went to the inn, "The
Cerneho kocatka" in the immediate vicinity of the castle, which will spend some
time as the highest official of the Czech. Former dissident writer famous
"Audiences," and once took Bill Clinton to the beer in your favorite cafe.
In addition, I came back over the Charles Bridge whose stone blocks, according to
legend, glued with eggs, in a new place.

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KONOPISTE, HISTORY, TRAGEDY, MELODRAMA

A day, when I'm from near Benesov, went to Konopiste, to see the place where
he began a part of European history, was rainy. As befits meetings with important
history. Previous night was a blast. Full of thunder. Anyway, as I look around very
neatly manicured gardens around the castle, and its lavish interior, I fear if
somewhat exaggerated melodrama of the text which explains the curator of the fate
of this building occupants. The castle, which is almost more in novels and movies,
than in real history. Fortunately, the man was expounding the meaning Konopiste
longer dwell on the history of civil engineering, architecture, weapons collection and
Ferdinand's hunting trophies.
Exactly 48 kilometers from Prague, in place Konopiste, are very impressive and
preserved castle, which derives from the late 17th century. Then, it was, of course
Hapsburg, from the Renaissance into a Baroque building, designed for relaxation in
the hunt for the emperor and archduke. Today this castle, because of its beauty and
exclusivity, but also the tragic historical subtext part of the Central European
tourism, counts in “10 fantastic castles. “Castle in Konopiste, actually, began with
the construction of the noble families Benes, even 1300th in a forested river valley
Sazava. Jiri Sternberk subsequently enlarged it in the 15th century.
It was a medieval fortress, conducted in a French fortification manner, with seven
towers, that encompassed the defensive walls. The final appearance of the castle in
Konopiste, which later merged with the chapel, will named Archduke Ferdinand

240
formed by the architect F. M. Kanka in the 18th century; a reconstruction is
complete by J. Mocker and J. Šmorance. As it is all the time, this castle prepared for
the future emperor that it never became!
Fans of melodrama, of the times remaining deprived of the story of '' Last Supper''
a couple of lovers, before they went to Sarajevo. To be sure, a melodrama is
perfectly legitimate, only I am not a fan! As neither musical scenes, which take place
every Saturday in the castle, who is the interiors now used for weddings.
Which are also quite valid? No, matter what you look like theater performances. To
close the circle of tragic events, the end of another '' Czech'' curiosity - a few
hundred kilometers away from Konopiste, is city Terezijen (Terezijenburg,
Terezijenstadt) where he died as a convict in prison - Gavril Princip. Which, as we all
know, in the assassination in Sarajevo killed Crown Prince Ferdinand.
In addition, the castle we look then left without owners, which is intended.
Therefore, the principle is that the tragedy, melodrama, entertainment and history
found in a closed circuit. Here, near Prague, in addition Benesov. In the land of the
Czech Republic.

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TEREZIN - WAY THAT LEADS TO CATHARSIS

I went from Konopistě with double impressions. Some containing a picture of

elegance and decent castle Prince Ferdinand. Embed in a wooded environment and
lawns. A bit was like a fairy tale. On the other hand, history and its branches, here I
think the context in which Sofia and Franz lived through his final days before the
trip to Sarajevo with the outcome known and tragic, as the "baggage" that I brought
here, created a complex and somewhat wistful return effect. If all that add the fact
that we go to Terezijen, in which slaved assassin on the famous Austro-Hungarian
couple - Gavrilo Princip, a contradiction to expectations, beliefs and emotional
tension, it becomes clearer. In the Czech Republic, we have. Let us go to the border
with Germany. Let us get out of melodrama and arrive at a place where history will
be much more brutal!
We drive through Highway that could take us in Dresden. However, it is not our
goal but only a direction. After 30 miles, we come to town once called the
Terezijenstadt. As usual in life, even that of a tourist, we came to this city mainly
because here died Gavrilo Princip, a Bosnian Serb, who committed the assassination
of the royal couple, prepared to story from the horizon of World War I, and found
ourselves in the middle of the memory of the Holocaust a large scale. Because this
city, burdened with heavy and bulky historical past, is a significant place for visiting,
individual, and mass catharsis. This place is a monument to the crime of
extermination of the Jews during World War II. Terezijen is, therefore, a place of
pilgrimage, prayer and tribute to the deceased spirits. This is the dire warning to
Europe that such horror never happens again. It is also obvious in this city on the
edge of the former East Germany that almost all visitors, it is hard to tell the tourists,
they are quite personal and tragic reason for his visit to the Czech end here. This is
the most memorial tourism, if it allowed doing something like that. Here it was like

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Auschwitz. The Small Fortress in Terezin also used as a Gestapo prison. The first
inmates arrived on June 14 1940th by the end of the war, 32,000 prisoners, of whom
5.000 were female, passed through the small fortress. Primarily they were Czech,
later other nationalities, including citizens of the former Soviet Union, Poland,
Germany and Yugoslavia.
The story of the castle in the center Terezin, which could be a striking if not
tragic and infamous, is as follow: In the late 18th century, the Hapsburg Monarchy
erected the fortress on the Ohre River, near its confluence with the Elbe River at
Litoměřice. It was named after Empress Maria Theresienstadt Theresa. Construction
started in 1780 and lasted ten years. The fortress consisted of a citadel, the "Small
Fortress," to the east of the Ohhe, and a walled town, the "Main Fortress," to the
north. The total area of the fortress was 3.89 km ˛. The fortification designed in the
tradition of frightened Sebastian Le de Vauban. In peacetime, it held 5.655 soldiers,
in wartime, around 11.000 soldiers could be placed here, and neighboring areas
could be inundated. Fortress Josef in eastern Bohemia built at the same time and
had a similar purpose.
In the totality of the great evil of humanity, Gavrilo Princip, assassinated him,
heroism or fanatical, crime, or a gesture revolutionary desperate, fall in Terezin in
the background. The Second World War their crimes all excelled. Inside the cells are
placed in Terezin fortress, where Gavrilo died, now only the wall built-in hardware
At the front of the cell wall built a modest panel the names of prisoners, the main
actor's assassination in Sarajevo, which used to start one of the bloodiest wars in
world history.
In return, Konopiste, Ferdinand castle and the story of the princely couple, such
that, impressed by the harsh reality of Terezin, lost their melodramatic flavor.
However, to enjoy in a beauty, from time to time it is necessary to look at the ugly
face of life.

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FROM CZECH TO GERMANY AND BACK
FRANTISKOVY LAZNE TO AMBERG

We travel through the Czech Republic on a rainy night. We are going to Germany, to Amberg,
less to to sightsee, more to buy parts for "Opell." As the evening darkens, the rain stays behind.
Remaining we still have to stop at Frantiskovy Lazne to assure the accuracy of Goethe's
assessment of the local park as'' earthly paradise''. Of course, without the slightest doubt, first
we will go in the castle of the great German poet. Front windshield springs villages and towns
such as the peeps from twilight landscape. The modified radio program, more guttural German
language, we feel we are approaching boundaries.
Meanwhile, we arrive at the Frantiskovy Lazne, undulating road through the impressive
forest, which twilight, and night, and soon, they give a little bit of ancient mystery. It was too late
to visit the Goethe's garden. Instead, we went to the Švejk's restaurant on Klostreman Street.
In addition, in the restaurant the decor was as the Jozef Lada illustrations Hašek's novel. The
kitchen, actually offered food, was a classical Czech. We eat dumplings in a special sauce.
Evening nevertheless flows almost normal, without flowing bohemian event... The general
mood, however, improves the happy conversations with some tourists next to the bar. We have
heard, in fact, a story that might have fictional, how is exactly Frantiskovy Lazne spa
actually it is from Kundera prose where a spa doctor, to treat specifically female patients
of infertility. Indeed, the story seemed charming, but under was in France and could not check
the veracity of what we heard in Švejk restaurant. We did not get either to inquire with the local
people, whether children born after spa treatments really look like the local doctor.
At midnight, we decided to delay the trip to Germany. After a lot of local beer, was not very
advisable to drive a car. Before going to sleep, we went to the sauna that refreshes the body to
fatigue, but also large quantities of beer. So relaxed we went to the hotel to sleep. The hotel was
very close and called Spa & Kur Hotel Harvey. It was all new, modern and spacious. The friendly
staffs and our team in the midnight hours in all came out to meet them.

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 In Amberg, a town of 50,000 inhabitants, on the river wills, we arrived the next day, in the
late afternoon. He seemed like a bustling market town at the end of working
times. Friday is the start of the weekend. For the Germans, it means the beginning of a brief but
intense vent. We decided to spend the night in "Hotel Brunner." Our friends have not
recommended this hotel; they say it is clean and inexpensive. It turns out, that
first notification was right, while the other was not exactly the most accurate. However, close to
the market the staff is friendly. During the dinner, we enjoyed the cabbage and sausages; we
have the opportunity to make sure that the weekend in Amberg dynamic. It was noisy, fun and
exciting! In the Sign of draft beer. Everything is the same as in the Czech brewery but dynamic
and louder.
On Saturday morning, a friend of my son goes to auto-waste, to change the windshield, as I
look around the city. Modern commercial part, the industry, led by ''Siemens”, completely
harmoniously leaned on this very old Bavarian city. See the river fort protected, Wills, with
public buildings, mostly in the Gothic style, with spicy Renaissance applications. Due to the short
time, it would be foolish to talk about the other specifics of this city; they called'' Venice of the
Wills''. Nevertheless, there is a curiosity of Amberg. The joint city bakery, in 1997 has broken
the Guinness World Record by making pancakes a mile long! They say it is enough for each
resident of the German border town. A pancake is a stuffed potato.
However, before leaving Amberg, on the recommendation of the desk clerk, we separated the
two hours to visit the Kurfürstenbad Amberg Water Park. Moreover, we did not regret. In this
fun, recreation, healing and very attractive Water Park has everything you imagine. All the skills
that you can imagine that you are working in the water and under the water here are applied.
There are waterfalls, artificial waves, water slides, jumping, hydrotherapy, massages...
That evening, we returned to the Czech Republic, in Frantiskovy Lazne

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SLOVAKIA
ZORAN SLAVIC MAY EUROPEAN PART OF THE WORD

246
BRATISLAVA
SLOVAK CITY ON THE DANUBE

I was in Bratislava on three occasions: first, when this country was still located
in Czechoslovakia. Another time I was in Bratislava at the time of this city, of course,
Slovakia, left common state with the Czech. Then I had an interesting meeting with ''
Phantom of the Opera'', in the hall of the Slovak National Theatre. My third coming
already took place in the capital of an independent European country of Slovakia.
Nominally, in the same town, I was in Bratislava, which after twenty years, now
completely rejuvenated. Now it is a city and a bit confused major breakthrough in
the world, after decades of hibernation within the Communist bloc. Slightly more
rigid than the Czechs, the inhabitants of Bratislava, Slovak, as they harder to find
their way in the Soviet "arms." It is no accident that the Gustav Husak, former
president of Czechoslovakia, was born and brought up in this city. Therefore,
democracy is for Slovaks were small and coveted shocked. Pozun or German as
Pressburg formerly called, I remembered from prose writers of the Serbian
Vojvodina, Jakov Ignjatovic. Come from the same root and the famous ''požonji
rolls,'' which are in Vojvodina cuisine is very present. Both of these names, and the
rolls for the city, come from a warped Hungarian name of the city, which has long
been a part of the neighboring country - Hungary.

247
In a series of important places, in the past, for this region, except Vienna, Budapest,
Timisoara, Szeged, and Pressburg play a significant role. In trade, education and
culture.
When, at the end of the seventies of the last century, visited Bratislava,
without success I asked her in a city that I created in my imagination. There was no
sign of what I remember from the novel, history and travel books. It was a rich
trading place and a center of cultural events. There was a run-down, shabby and
muddy Bratislava. I came, therefore, in a city that is slowly withering under a regime
that controlled the Soviets. Bratislava was then still far beyond Presburg, as the
Germans called it, the city where in 1805 Napoleon and Franz II signed a peace pact.
The only thing, which is likely to be the same, was the Danube and the castle above
the river, dominant, impressive. It is apparent even from Austria, with only one
impediment. Although it was built in the late 18th century, castle was destroyed and
burned in 1911. So in 1950, almost entirely re-built. However, the fact most tourists
do not know! However, the reconstruction was so precise and consistent, so that the
castle is now one of the symbols of Bratislava.
Above the city rises and television tower with restaurant complex, which for
years was prestigious?
In Bratislava, and this name was brought 1911th there is still a lot of
attractions (Tower of St. Michael, the Museum of Jewish Culture, Slovak National
Gallery, the hotel'' Carlton'') of which I extract Slovenian National Divald (built in
1886), the famous theater in which the late eighties I had a funny encounter with
„Phantom of the opera''.

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TRIP TO PEISTANY

I was, only after taking a shower at the hotel "Piestany," in the Slovak town of the
same name, which is a spa resort, able to look at the previous long day. Away from
the hustle and bustle of the central areas, the atmosphere calm lines, sufficient
comfort, visibly renovated, this hotel I really felt good. It all started yesterday,
Monday 8 July. In the hotel '' Black Eagle'', a strange building that seemed to have
formed from an Austrian barracks, even I would say the former prisons, in whose
name says Mosonmagyarovar. There, in Hungary, close to the Austrian border, I
spent the night on the way to Bratislava. From here, I have often attended the tours
of ancient Bohemia. This time I just went on a tour of Slovakia. Therefore, I am going
to part of the former Czechoslovakia that velvet product. Because I was in Slovakia.
First to Bratislava, lo that loves so much Ana Njemoga. I spent the night in the hotel
'' Tatra “.
Then follow the path through the plains that ends on the slopes of the Little
Carpathians. These mountains run through their Morava. I had intended to Piestany.
I came to this place out of curiosity and to make sure it is the "miraculous" effects of
trace tourist - shopping journeys of my friends from Zrenjanin, Professor Steve
Zhivkov. Now, I was on the spot. First things first: the spa is located on the Spa

249
Island. It is located between two branches of the river Váh, at the site of several hot
springs with temperatures of 67-69 ° C. The water originates in a tectonic break at
2.000 meters depth. The sulfate-carbonate water, from the springs, used in pools.
In addition, tubs channel of the river making use for treatment as thermal mud
pools. Sulfurous mud extracted from the bed of a side. Truly impressive, but at the
same time is very useful. Especially useful for tired and sick people. I think to myself
that I'm healthy! From the river, the canal, water leads to pools with medicinal mud.
Meanwhile, while I was in a restaurant drinking coffee, the waiter told me that I was
wrong for not staying at the Danubius Hotels Group, because there was a complete
relaxes treatment. However, it does not matter. Spa's services, I looked at the
Napoleon Spa. It is a complex of buildings built spa neoclassicist between 1822 and
in 1862. The Kolonadovy Bridge, constructed by Emil Belluš in 1930-33, is a
preeminent functionalist construction with many precious art objects.
That afternoon, in that same restaurant, the same waiter, told me something
interesting history and environment Piestany. A small female statue called Venus of
Moravian was found in the nearby village of Moravian Váhom It is made of
mammoth ivory and is dated to 22,800 BC. It currently resides in the Bratislava
Castle Museum. Then here's the story: in another nearby village, Krakovany-guard, a
treasure consisting of luxury items made of glass, bronze, silver, and gold was
discovered in three graves. Before we announced third-knowledge, he admitted to
me that he was studying archeology.
Bringing me a "Becherovka," the local brandy, he completed his mission of
tourism: the surroundings of Piestany include the Great Moravian castle of Ducové. I
toasted him and Slovakia.
Leaving Piešetan I passed by a series of beautiful and classically decorated with
dozens of buildings and infrastructure enviable spa.
Its late afternoon and I intend to go back to Bratislava. Then, at a crossroads
I have taken a wrong turn and in the evening, I had to spend the night in the small
Town of Veselí nad Moravou. I slept in the hotel ''Rosekvet”. In Slovakian, it was a
hot summer. Then, when I walked the trail long.

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AUSTRIA
ZORAN SLAVIC

251
BY TRYING ESCAPE FROM THE HISTORY
FROM THE Schönbrunn, THROUGH VIENNERVALD UP TO TIERGARTEN

After Schönbrunn, the next day, my niece Columbine wished to go to Vinervald.

She is a lover of the theater and remembers the famous play by Ödön von Horváth,
"Tales from the Vienna Woods." We decided to go for a half-day excursion that will
take us to the most beautiful parts of the Vienna Woods. Starting at the Roman City
of Baden, with its thermal springs, pass through the romantic valley Helenental, on
your way to the former Mayerling hunting lodge. Crown Prince Rudolf, the only son
of Emperor Franz Joseph, committed suicide there in 1889, together with Baronesse
Vetsera. The next stop is the medieval cloister of the Cistercian Abbey of
Heiligenkreuz Which houses the remains of the last Babenberger. We drive by the
Höldrichsmühle where Franz Schubert composed his song "The Linden tree," then
we arrive at the Seegrotte Hinterbrühl, where we board on a boat ride along the
largest subterranean lake in Europe. On the way back to Vienna, we passed
Liechtenstein Castle near. Everything was romantic, but the Columbine expected
more passion and drama as she remembered from performance Ödön von Horváth.
After an unusual experience in Schönbrunn, which is, I think the famous castle, by
the way named by brook from which he, at one time, the water supplies refined part
of this renowned city, I decided, in the middle of Vienna, to try to run away from
history. In a way, I wanted to reset again. At this point, I turn off all the political
consciousness of history. To try to forget all the lessons from the history of art.
Finally, to ignore any knowledge of classical music! To take a rest from Maria
Theresa. To save yourself from the Baroque, Rococo, Biedermeier, Mozart's music

252
and his chocolate balls. To get away from Strauss family, all the Hapsburg, waltz,
elegance, decadence and boredom.
To be far from significant Serbs who lived in the Austrian capital. I wanted to
forget on Musil, Freud, Oscar Kokoschka, Ocvirk and Hanapi. I do not hear Gustav
Mahler. In addition, I am not talking about the Serbian giants of Vuk Karadzic,
through Radičević, Andric, Crnjanski. Everything is so beautiful and burdensome; On
the Beautiful Blue Danube that man thinks that never changed with contemporary
Viennese, especially since the cessation Cold War story '' The Third Man'' became
outmoded. In addition, spies become unbearable with this ''ex- capital almost
especially in Europe''. I am in town, which has all already seen and experienced.
Moreover, I succeeded to me famous Schönbrunn not like it at first sight! I am
convinced that something more can be experienced only in Rome, Paris and Prague.
The plan, at least for one-day get out of the network of knowledge and
experience, I intend to realize in a square here in Vienna - the Mexikoplatz. In this
place, I knew from numerous travel stories. It is said that Mexikoplatz for our
former country, represents Ponte Rosso reserve. Paradise for buying cheap and
smugglers. They said that it was for all the former socialist countries of this part of
Europe. This place was in the midst of Trieste Vienna. Of course, "smuggling" and no
Cultural History It was a place where we supplied the 'all manner of consumer
goods, rather than what we are instructed in the former Czechoslovakia that all
good sales there. Mexikoplatz is located on the right bank of the Danube, along the
Handelskai, and is 22nd on the direction of the ramp District. I've just here been
determined that this is not a way out of history: respectively, the neighborhood is
named after the infamous Mexican adventure unfortunate Ferdinand Maximilian
Joseph, who is blinded by personal imperial fantasies, far from his native Vienna,
able to be put to death in Mexico in an indifferent city of Queretaro. To Mexicans, led
by Zapata and Juarez, had nothing by himself to Maximilian tragically naive, says
historical curiosity that this country, besides the Soviet Union, only the 1938th,
protested Hitler '' Anschluss'' of Austria. At least they had style and subsequent
compression.
Late in the afternoon on that day, in the middle of Vienna, in street Graben,
beautiful street - grim name, I finally decided where to get away from European
history. I go to the zoo. Moreover, it just does not work or start: Vienna's Tiergarten
is, nowhere else, but near the celebrated Schönbrunn, the hard core of imperial
glory. Nonetheless, this is the oldest zoo in the world! However, I am going to Vienna
Tiergarten!

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FROM PRATER UP TO SCHOENBRUNN,
OVER FOOTBALL GAME

In Vienna, I was in many famous historical and tourist sites, but I went and to
Junkyards. First time, however, I stayed in Vienna as an onlooker of football games,
Admira - Sparta Prague. The stadium is the Prater, which is also a large park and
entertainment center. In the Austrian capital, we arrived even in the early morning
so that we had the opportunity to meet with the Viennese attraction. In 1873, a
World Exhibition was held in the Prater. For which a large area of land was set
aside, centered on the Rotunda, Which burnt down in the 1937. This land now
houses the Messegelände (exhibition center). Of course, this is the place used to be
away from the core of the daily activities of the Austrian city. It was an outing hunts
the nobility and the royal family.
I learned from an elderly Viennese, who not to watch a football match, he only
had enough time for a pint of dark beer in a restaurant near the stadium, that is
1766. decision of the Emperor Joseph II the Prater declared to be free for public
enjoyment, and allowed the establishment of coffee houses and cafés, which led to
the beginnings of the Wurstelprater. Throughout this time, hunting continued to
take place in the Prater, ending only in the 1920.
In addition, I, in fact, that Sunday, I almost do not watch a football game,
Austrian and Czech club, for which I am here in the Prater. More I think about an old
movie whose dramatic segment occurring in this environment. It is, of course, part
of the “The Third Man”, which scripted by Graham Greene, directed by Carol Reed,
while the main role plays unrivaled Orson Veles supported by a beautiful Alida Valli.
It is Vienna of the Cold War, 1949. I am in this incredible Vienna Prater from the

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movie! Here I am, actually came to visit the Schönbrunn Palace, one of the most
important cultural monuments in Austria and since the 1960s also one of the major
tourist attractions in Vienna. My niece, Miss Columbine wanted to visit this famous
building, and for tomorrow, we plan to visit it.
Today is a Monday. We are going to Schönbrunn. Everything is luxurious. In the
green overspread the rococo. Secession emerges from the background. However, the
scene is dominated by a baroque castle that all entries in the spirit of the Habzburgs
controversial lineage. Flamboyantly exceed in lacy. Probably and niece Columbina
recognize this famous castle in many different styles. My emotions are on the verge
of overload. I expected this visit scene of heroic opera and welcomed me pictures
candied wash. I wished Mozart and Strauss welcomed. However, do not blame
Schönbrunn, the error in my false hopes. To appeal, and especially yourself to
others, Viennese powers have created an object and the space that postmodernism
might again be able to explain. Because of the palace complex includes some fake
Roman ruins and orange orchard, the concept of luxury palaces in the European
past.
Tomorrow we will visit Mexicoplatz and the famous Vienna Zoo - Tiergarten. I
will try to keep the Schönbrun disappointment for myself, because I would be in
otherwise could declare for insufficiently educated. Moreover, I am not saying that
this is not very important; just admit it is not to my taste.
Finally, and suddenly, as I was riding the subway, I remember what I was actually
most minds when visiting this world heritage: Being Easter, the hosts were all over
the green areas lined huge blue and yellow plastic eggs. In addition, my overall
impression appeared to pungent taste kitsch, because the baroque form substituted
its own negation in plastic. Therefore, Viennese Baroque is not the main culprit;
guilty is lacking of taste of our time. Schönbrunn, I owe you an apology!

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KARLSPLATZ IS INSTANT STORY ABOUT VIENNA

Capital of Austria, Vienna, is now a refined, dignified, some would say - sharp-
suited city. A Vienne became a bit slow and too neutral. Such, however, is only at
first glance. Much energy time and history, art and money, mystery and beauty built
in this city, and his being. All of this is deposited in his face and back. Therefore, it is
simply impossible even today it not seen. Time Hapsburg, Turkish invaders, Austro-
Hungarian epic, the Nazis and the cold-war days after the Second World War – were
one side of the Viennese memory. Balls, emperors and princes, actors, musicians,
gossip, passions, opera and operetta, chocolate cake, a great love, gambling debts -
round off to circle the city, which simply cannot close the lid of his marvelous
historical baggage.
Without exaggeration, this entire ravishing collection from past taste, color,
smell, enthusiasm and defeat one can experience it with a little imagination and
good will, today if you visit the famous Vienna Karlsplatz.
Karlsplatz ("Charles' Square") is a town square on the border of the first and fourth
districts of Vienna. It is one of the most frequented and best-connected
transportation hubs in Vienna. The Karls-kirche is located here. Before than it was
the Karlsplatz built, here existed the decorative Elizabeth Bridge, built in 1854, and
named by the young bride of the Emperor. The bridge was fitted in 1867 with wall
images, which now presented over the City Hall stand. On April 20, 1897, it was
blocked and then demolished. From the many buildings on the square, or in the
immediate vicinity, and each of them has a prefix historically, we need to

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extract Museum Vienna. The Vienna Museum, from 1887 to 2003 called the
"Historical Museum of the City of Vienna”, was once housed in the Vienna town hall.
There were already plans for a new building on Karlsplatz before 1914, in fact by
Otto Wagner. The museum's first new building opened in 1959, the work of Oswald
Haerdtl, a former associate of Josef Hoffmann and the architect of the Austrian
pavilion at world exhibitions in the 1930s. Since the interior courtyard was roofed
covered in 2000, the Museum has gained a multi-functional space for new events
and a café. Alongside the permanent collection, special exhibitions are held, at
regular intervals, in the Haerdtl building. It should say that Karlsplatz is a very busy
city center, with many bus and subway lines. About the daily flow of people, not to
speak.
After 2000, Vienna started the project "Karlsplatz Art Space”. The goals were,
among other things a redesign of the park in terms of gardening, light and space and
routing concept, called an improvement of the traffic situation for pedestrians and
cyclists and the promotion of art projects on the Karlsplatz. Following the redesign
of the park and the opening of Rosa Mayreder, Girardi and Esperanto Park, cultural
and art enthusiasts, promoters, professionals from many fields of education and
culture, have started producing many educational and artistic contents. Vienne is
through networking of the various surrounding square created institutions in the
fields of arts, culture and education (among other things, the House of Artists, the
project space of the Kunsthalle, Vienna Museum, and University of Technology).
Found space in an area of cultural exchange, and expected, that despite the traffic-
technical difficulty, that this square be able to fully revive. While I was sitting in the
Café am Kunsthalle Karlsplatz, the very modern designed catering facility, or better
to say, this is the modern entertainment presenter of youth, and I think about
midnight departure for the exhibition of pictures large Gustav Klimt in the Museum.
Viennese life, after an afternoon pause, again heats up.

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GERMANY
ZORAN SLAVIC

258
BAMBERG (1)
BEER FOAM WITH SEVEN HILLS

While going through Nuremberg, then I'm going to try to Bamberg, among other
things, the famous smoked beer'''', as if from a distance I hear Wagner '' Master
singers” opera by this German composer, strange and stilted, completed and
premiered performed in Munich 1868th year. The story takes place in Nuremberg in
the sixteenth century, and I ''Singers'' hear right now. It we learned before meeting
with Beer in Bamberg! Beta, married Vukanović, laughed uproariously to me. I
however, Bamberg, which is situated on the river Regnic expected with a dominant
Gothic tower and other buildings and Baroque strongly aspire to heaven, which is
the same as the ancient 902nd when the city was first mentioned. There is late-
Romanesque cathedral, New residence with magnificent “Rosengarten’’ raised
garden from which the amazing view of the city. Altenburg castle is located on the
highest of the seven hills of Bamberg. The castle was once lived and well-known
German writer ETA Hoffman.
I found myself in front of an impressive monument. ''The Bamberger Reiter'', the
sculpture in 1240 years, placed right next to the cathedral, a unique example of
Gothic sculpture in free space, separated from the building and it addressed.
Probably the Conrad III, but it not excluded that it is Stefan I of Hungarian. Either
way, this is one of the equestrian, famed around the world as a symbol of the city.
Building Šlenkerla'''', the famous beer hall, the iconographic significance as well, but
for a different reason and a different clientele. In a city that after extensive daily
tours of history and art, the night offers much more, with the slogan: In a healthy
body, healthy mind. In town Bamberg, really respect the principle that only the good
food and even better drinks allow the human body to be with soul in true balance!

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 In the region of Franconia, and Bavaria was in it, and today he is still more
than 300 breweries! In addition, most of them are in the valley of the river Regnic
that marked Nuremberg and Bamberg! Most of them are local, family brewery.
Beside them is mandatory and beer tavern. They intended for the district, the street,
larger family or society. These beers are different. Microbreweries been learned to
be quite different from the world famous brewery brands. It has its fans in and
around Bamberg. Lovers come from all over the beer world.

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IN THE KINGDOM OF BEER

In Bamberg, to drink many beers. For every taste there is supply: no refined
cellar (Keller bier), ''Bock beer”, which are consumed seasonally from October to
Christmas, ''Weiss bier” is made from wheat, ''Märzen'' that brewing and cook until
March, and an is strong,'' while “the Schwarz bier “in beer tavern “Klosterbräu ”
ordered only as a'' small'' black. Finally, we come to the famous '' Smoked beer” that
undergoes the final stage of the impact of fire and smoke that comes exclusively
from beech wood. Connoisseurs and lovers of this specialty of Bamberg compared
with premium Scotch whiskey. Therefore, besides '' The Bamberger Reiter'' this
drink, Raushbier, is the emblem of this Bavarian city.
Brewer's weekend includes, for foreigners and locals, a very focused and''
wet'' gastronomic itinerary through the beer - environment. Imagine a typical
Bavarian breakfast in the pub Klosterbräu: sausages with sauerkraut or white
sausage and sweetbreads with sweet mustard. All it is eaten for breakfast - exactly
as written on the menu! With a pint of beer smoked. In an environment that has
hardly changed in 400 years, through which the Trum family in six generations, in
this city preserved medieval, Gothic and Baroque styles, makes and sells beer and
authentic Bavarian atmosphere. In such an environment, it is logical that there is a
museum of beer.
This museum-pub is located in the basement of the former Dominican Abbey
Michaels Berg, where from 1122. produce this beer. It all takes place in one of the
seven hills of Bamberg, which connects the beer foam with Gothic towers, which are
symbolic support.

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 Bamberg, all antiquity, at the same time is very dynamic and modern
lifestyle. There were U.S. base, a basketball club to the European level and the
famous Bamberg Symphony Orchestra, which even today cherish the style of
Bohemia. Therefore, I feel as if I was in Prague. What is not without reason that this
is a city of 70,000 residents is very similar to the architecture of the old Prague.

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BAMBERG: FROM BRUECKENRATHAUS OVER
ALTSTADT TO KARL MAY

Already is the third day of stay in Bamberg and so many things still left to
explore. First, breakfast in restaurant “Hofbrau” in Karolinenstrasse. It followed by
visits Brueckenrathaus. The former town house on the river Regnic, located in a
building with a unique urban location in Germany, and there are not many facilities
in the whole of Europe. The building is literally built on a bridge over the river. Still
serves as titular hall, but also a significant exhibition center. It is hard to resist not to
record the frescoes on the walls, which combine the iconography of German and
sumptuous colors of Renaissance masters. It should be said, however, that a
complete fascination with art, paint and plastics, done on the outside this building,
which stands on the bridge since the 18th century, as Baroque product that replaces
the previous wooden structure. This is yet another wonder of Bamberg.
In addition, we are, of course, photographed this unusual building, aware that we
are in the city that is clearly oriented towards tourism. Web sites are numerous and
very effective. According to Bamberg is a multitude of billboards, road signs,
information centers.
We went, then, to Altstad whose heritage under UNESCO protection. Altenburg
castle is located on the highest of the seven hills Bamberg. We went there with a
tourist bus line. I immediately dive into the shafts and narrow, winding streets. We
found ourselves in an environment like the middle Ages. Guide to the castle and the
environment tells us that Bamberg was once the capital of the Holy Roman Empire.
Henry II, the emperor, and his wife Kunigunda, a descendant of Charlemagne, were
buried in the local cathedral. One in four towers. We were there yesterdays. Polite
young man, travel guide, leading us, tells us something quieter voice, that in the past

263
the city was also dark sides: wrong famous '' Witch hunt'' the 17th century, had in
Bamberg his infamous stronghold. In an infamous tower in Drudenhaus, were
dungeons for the defeated protagonist of the inquisitorial activities. It went well.
The tower collapsed. Other buildings are a'' positive'' list of historic and famous
Klosterbräu Brewery, whose name says the actually monks, the Benedictines were
that pioneers brewery in the city.
Mr. Otto Meyer, a guide, we declaim, while sipping a beer in a restaurant,
"Altenburg" where weddings are held and the aristocratic way, what should be the
objects that are called Protected core old Bamberg. Here is the Cathedral with the
tombs of Emperor Henry II and Pope Clement II. Next to her is Alte Hofhaltung,
residence of the bishops in the 16th and 17th centuries. Nearby is the Old Town Hall
(1386), built in the middle of the Regnic River, accessible by two bridges. Coming up
soon Klein Venedig ("Little Venice"), a colony of picturesque anglers’ houses from
the 19th century, along one side of the river Regnic (by which we repeatedly
passed). The path then leads us to Michaelsberg Abbey, built in the 12th century, on
one of Bamberg's "Seven Hills." Finally, there is a place where we are now - in
Altenburg, castle, former residence of the bishops. At the end of our stay in
Bamberg we left another attraction: will visit the Museum of Karl May, a German
writer, unsurpassed novelist American Wild West, whom was and one Einstein
loved and whose inheritance citizens of Bamberg shared with towns Ernstthal and
Radebeul in Saxony, where this writer was born, respectively died. When you go
through the Old Shannels, first coming to the Theatre ET Hoffman, which is located
at No. 4, at Hainstrasse. It is shows the ballet ''The Nutcracker''. Followed by Villa
Dessauer, where he placed a representative collection of Soviet art (inherited from
DDR). Finally, we arrive to the building where is the museum and publishing
housing Karl May Verlag. From there, almost every day, arrive new editions of Karl
May novels about the exploits of cowboy and Indians. Despite the modest facade of
the Museum, the publisher of Bamberg has been printed 100 million of his books in
30 languages including Chinese. When we entered the museum, we were
surrounded by numerous photographs, models and wax figures which show
Winnetou, Old Sharethand, Indians, buffalo - in a word, the entire fictional world of
the Wild West. As a fan of Karl May book, I enjoyed in this visit in required reading
his youth.

264
RUSSIA
ZORAN SLAVIC

265
MOSCOW
BETWEEN HISTORY, ILLUSIONS AND AWAKENING

From the airport Sheremetyevo, after a peaceful flight, with bus leaves for
Moscow. The vehicle is almost crawling, way through the Moscow region. The sight
is full of all sorts of remnants of communism, monarchy is, and all times past. Of the
moment, I think of Walter Benjamin, the great German theorist, and the hero of my
novel, which was in this town, Moscow, thirties years of the nineteenth century.
Benjamin was not able understand that Soviet Russia is rapidly converted to the
Bolshevik-Stalinist Gulag.
I, now, for the first time coming to this city that has all the political evils survived.
Sit then the leftists thought was stronger than his own unfettered encyclopedic
mind, or maybe the love for actress Asja Lacis was stronger than any ideology and
existence?
The Moscow Soviet records from Benjamin, the Bolshevik and frozen, the more
we enter into the central parts, slowly disappears ceding its place orthodox,
imperial and neo-capitalism. In addition, spring. Unusual mix of imperial,
monumental, religious, too luxurious, and modern Euro-American architecture, the
incredible alternation of and interference with soc-realistic buildings, awakens in
me an avalanche of contradictory, too strong, but somewhat wrong and intoxicating,
associations. That is what happens when too many well read, middle-aged; arrive in
a city that is one of the corner pillars of the world. However, even this is all just so;
this is still the largest center of Orthodoxy, which little threatened by ruthless
capitalism and crime. Ten million-Moscow, all in concentric circles spreading out

266
from the Kremlin on all four sides, almost swallowing Russia which is learning what
is a global society. The city of Moscow, with over ten million people, all in concentric
circles, extends from the Kremlin on all four sides, almost swallowing Russia, which
is learning what a global society is. Russia that communism forgets quickly,
consistently remembers a royal time, while Stalinism as a weed raises the where no
one expected. Life during this time spews through the streets that are on the verge
of disintegration of quantities of cars, trucks, buses. Modern, in fact almost entirely
postmodern life, full of citations'''' from different epochs, race, class, the Slavic
version of the world's metropolises, was transformed this megapolis, which, with
the suburbs, covers 885 square kilometers.
Today's Moscow bridging centuries, remembers Tartars, Mongols, Germans,
others Napoleon, Hitler and his ivanegrozne and Stalin. In this town, because of the
need for more intensive traffic, even the ancient buildings of the Russian religion -
churches and monasteries - bridged with roundabout, bridges, underpasses and
overpasses. Subway has long roars beneath this capital city. Only in Red Square, in
the days when no public holidays or demonstrations, in somewhat mysterious silent
shadow of the Kremlin, take turns iconography routine of everyday life. There is an
overwhelming impression that Moscow unites relative Orthodoxy and the spirit of
McDonald's.
First day in Moscow, as warm as it is not only April, I completed in a hotel''
Russia''. Building that occupies the entire block. From my room, one of 3200 how
many were in the hotel, in theory, I can see the river Moscow and Kremlin walls, the
church of St. Basil's the Preobrazeni (Transfigured). However, with its 14th
floor, my eyes just to reach an overpass, small, blue-colored hats, and shop for
caviar, vodka and tea.
Finally, while relaxing in Moscow staring into the twilight, waiting for the night
and sleep, interrupted me by phone - voice from reception to me, polite, asking if I
need for these night companies ... feminine! Moreover, it is Moscow!

267
JOURNEY THROUGH THE MOONLIGHT FILED
FROM MOSCOW TO RYAZAN

Through the suburbs, villages, fields, forests, and the night that light falls on Moscow
area, bus to Ryazan. The head of a crowded Moscow, Russia from required reading
intertwines with the landscape of the metropolitan periphery after which, a town in
the region, beginning birches, meadows, rivers and villages, which I was very
reminiscent of the Potemkin. Wooden houses in pastel colors. Only the road fulfills
rows. No depth. I understand: Moscow today is not representative of the typical
Russian. However, the metaphor is. Rights '' русская земля“only begins when you
leave the Moscow city area.
In Ryazan, an ancient city, once completely destroyed in the Tatar conquest, am
going with fifty participants at the annual gathering of all Slavs humanists in honor
Cyril and Methodius, educator and reformer language. I as if tucked in in honeycomb
related languages that are barely recognize each other, focused on the display bus
window, I see as Russia eyes wide open, however, as I immersed into the seductive
landscapes of my decades of dreams.
In the beginning, before we pass the towns, the people working in the field until
daylight went to a purple, which will go into darkness, and does not resurrect the
moonlight, my mind registers the real sensation. It is from Russia these days. The
spacious and contradictory. A powerful in the soul, slow in action.
However, when the moonlight everything, villages and towns, rivers, forests, us on
the bus, hid in mystery fluid, the film establishes a real and possible in my mind.
That seemed to Tarkovsky directed: see that highway taking me through unfamiliar

268
night and waking Russian forests. Poplar forests continue with birch trees. I know
that I expected a place somewhere, where Yesenin Snjegina went to visit. It seems to
me that this morning, on the edge of the Moscow, Sofia Marmeladova saw. She was
as white willow grizzled. When we left the capital, Fyodor Dostoevsky's on the
monument, instead of the Karamazov, the Lenin looked like. Rough path highway,
below a starry sky, led into the distance. Highway leads me awake through the night
and unknown Russian forests.
At the time I did that I would like to rest with Ivan Denisovich, although I know
that is not the gulag archipelago, and Solzhenitsyn's beard is now closer to
everyone. I dream then how in the dusty nameless, Chekhov waiting tubercular
Kafka. On a dark train platform, where Europe is late. Maybe it's the buzz from the
Russian forests. Now of waking from somewhere Filipovna illuminates portrait of
Nastasya. In addition, I heard a cry of wild geese. A forest became denser.
This night is transparent to despair. I know that this is all some poetry. Some
elegies of times invoked, which are in together and Rilke and Lara`s song. I think the
steppe from which will emerge Konstatinovo. Landscapes remember that young
Yesenin. Then I dream again. I The Cherry Orchard planted in no time. Someone
whispered to me confidentially: Uncle Vanya, perhaps, will not return. When I wake
up, I see that the bus only goes deeper into the night. Right. Sometimes the vehicle
starts to shake. As I was intoxicated from moonlight swallowed.
Almost at midnight, we will be Ryazan. Great city. Almost brand new. All built in
the communist style. The query is: where she hid the immense history that I heard.
Huge square. On the square monument to me, tired from the journey, in yellow, the
dim light, for a moment, reminded of Stalin. The statue, however, was not his, but
around them there are. A hundred miles south of Moscow, everything is different.
Time as if measured differently. After a bit of wandering through the peripheral
streets, one of the former Russian Boyar, we arrive at the accommodation. Buildings
outside the city center. Elegant, although social realistic look. The road leads only to
her. They say it is a hotel. However, the panel clearly writes about "SANATORIUM".
If you think that I immediately thought of Asja Lacis and to Walter Benjamin, you are
right! I fall asleep with the taste of disinfectants in the nostrils. However, by the next
day we transferred in the "Monarch Hotel".

269
RYAZAN
POETRY AS A CONDITIONED REFLEX: YESENIN AND
RUSSIA

We traveled through the early spring, 121 miles southeast of Moscow. To reach
the city of Ryazan. There we invited to attend the Congress of Slavic literacy. In
addition, of course to see the different face in Russia. Tired from the journey, not pay
excessive attention to the place in which our hosts housing. Therefore, we by little
surprised that let in a boarding house, which is actually a sanatorium to recover
mid-level dignitaries from Ryazan, a city of 500,000 inhabitants. It was a place for
walking, recreation and leisure former regional strongmen.
This followed by breakfast in the dining room. Judging from the plates and
cutlery, as well as the behavior of the staff, the spirit of the socialist period still rules
this object. These are the recurrences of the Soviet Union! We see that a lot of
military and modest and simple meal. Then we go into the city center. The place is a
very socialist celebration, although it is now capitalism in Russia. Monument.
Flowers. Military music. March-past. Children. The pigeons take off. In addition, we
had the unbearable sun. It was a still month of April, but warm and ideal for fainting.
The square is huge. We are late for the start of, and, not quite delicate, leaving
before the end of the ceremony. In this, we have wholeheartedly supported from our
hosts. Tourist guides. Those we arrived from Moscow. Before lunch, we start at the
Historical Museum ethnological and historical-artistic tour through the region,
which is named in the prospectus - Pride of the Ryazan land. Which would mean
descriptive: traveling through the sights of the region. It was the right thing. There

270
he presented a very successful film and dramatic story of the battle from the Ryazan
1237th where the Mongols and Tartars destroyed the original city. The settlement,
which we have arrived is therefore the newly Ryazan, about 50 miles away from the
original the city, and the 1778 renamed to the old name. Thus city, which formerly
competed in beauty with Novgorod and Kiev, had to start everything from the
beginning.
However, it did not seem to mind the creative energy of the Phoenix - the city
to give birth to a Yesenin, to cultivate the famous physiologist Pavlov Ivan, inspired
the rebellious Solzhenitsyn Alexander and Konstantin Tsiolkovsky to inspire,
creator of Russian missile technology. In addition, who knows how it would be in
Ryazan not that the Mongol „Golden Horde'' destroyed the original settlement!
Memorials dedicated Saltikov-Shchedrin and Paustovski are part of the same
Russian word of references that we visited in Ryazan. On the evening of the same
day, a mighty rain fell over the city. In the large, but also very union-equipped
concert hall, held a ceremonial concert. Long-term, as in former times, is presented
and a number of excellent players, singers and musicians from across the region.
On the way, back to the hotel-sanatorium, felt a new, much more comfortable, the
smell of disinfectants. Moreover, unbelievably, corridors and rooms were quickly re-
painted. Therefore, that is the current Russia. New for old! The next day was again
sunny and warm. We had many programs that attract but and tiring.

271
TRIP TO RYAZAN AND YESENIN MUSEUM

On the second day in the Russian city of Ryazan all morning, we were at their
Kremlin. Smaller than Moscow, but still very impressive. Church of the Dormition is
from 17th century. Saturday only perform religious rites, which last for several
hours. Church Services held dozens of priests. The assembled crowd reaches nearly
one hundred thousand. I am very surprised by an incredible number of beggars,
crippled person, miserable people, who follow in the front of the liturgy expecting
good health, from a weal their - charity. Everything happens within the walls of the
Kremlin, next to which flows the river Oka. A couple of boats on the river like it are
from Šolohov. All the time these religious spectacles, in which the masses believe
incredible, I have the impression that life back in time of the Russian peasant, Boyar
and emperors. In addition, the golden towers of the temple as it actually exchange
messages with the heavens.
In the early afternoon, the road leads us to Konstantin, today called Esenin. This
village, a small town, as if simply arises middle of the steppe. At the confluence of
the rivers. With the constant breeze and the endless Russian silence, which is not
without its distinctive sound? Birthplace of poetry. Here Sergei Yesenin grew. In
poverty and inspiration. Inspired by daily life, was a challenge in his own soul, he
listened to the speech homeland and compatriots.
We arrive at his family home. It is made of wood, and indeed all the others.
Clean, but endlessly simple. Only poverty and renunciation left at the scene of
former Yesenin living space. Then we go over to Snjegina. Moreover, its Small
country house, but more luxurious than Yesenin`s. All around, endless sky, green

272
steppes and rivers that are in the background, everything that surrounds us
provides ease of metaphysics, which suggests the poet's majestic and tragic ascent.
Difficult but not impossible, to imagine how such an environment, Sergei walks
landscape with Isidora Duncan. Famously woman he was much loved.
In the same town, there was still one great man. We are in front of houses and
cabinet Ivan Petrovich Pavlov, those scientists who studied the conditioned reflex.
He performed the experiments on their dogs. There is neither poverty nor excessive
simplicity. Curator at the museum was too lengthy and detailed. However, where
does the curator, in the desert halfway between these two giants, my response is a
conditioned reflex on the word poetry. Yesenin. Mother. Petrograd. Female Dog.
Europe. '' Confessions of a teddy “, but this is a result of staying in the big world.
Everything was different when Esenin poetry was a conditioned reflex homeland.
Moreover, coming and celebration of 110 years since the birth of the poet. Born
here, in the Village called Constantinov. Back. Ryazan. Festive Lunch, where we
participated in, looked as if the French writer Francois Rabelais organized it. Long,
with a lot of vodka, fish, wine and venison. This feast constantly interrupted with
cheers. Then feast of Russian music, drama, and dance. When the banquet, sometime
late in the afternoon, finished, it was time to go back - the highway again. Moscow.
Russia. Back. Flight, senses, and mind full questionnaire. It was a trip to Russia

273
RYAZAN: FROM KREMLIN TO THE MONASTERY
SOLOTCHA

I am still in Russia. I have removed myself from Moscow, to see what the real life
of this country is. Because I definitely became clear that Moscow is not the same as
the rest of Russia. In Ryzan, it can better see in the daily life. You need only walk
from the city center, example of the Congress Hotel Forum, up to the Kremlin and all
you can see on the faces of people in the shop windows or clothing shops to
residents. After representative shop, much like those in Europe and America, in the
outskirts of the city I found a shop that did not have shop windows or same
protected by iron bars.
We arrive in the Ryazan Kremlin. At first glance, here is all the monuments and
merely ceremonial. This city has a different way of life... Completely different from
the one in Moscow but also from those in the business zones Ryazan. As if we were,
a time machine shifted in time a few centuries ago. It seemed as we are in the middle
Ages. In an environment of walls, towers, churches, separated from the noise of
civilization all acts as the beginning of a classical theater or perhaps better said -
historical film! The scene as if taken from a film Tarkovsky. For a moment, I feel like
I am in the middle of a movie about a Russian icon painter Andrei Rublev.
We are located in the center of Orthodoxy. Hear the numerous bells. An
Imagining me that roars! Then, begin the ritual songs. We stand in front of the
Cathedral of the Assumption, which was built in the 1690. This is the church, by its
size, is one of the largest in Russia. We told that the renewed 1800 year. Its greatest
treasures are two "miracle-working" images or pictures of the Virgin. One of them

274
was brought to the old equity of Ryazan from Bishop Moore by Vasili in 1291, at his
voyage wonderful above-mentioned, the second "appeared to the people" in 1487,
in the village of Fedotief, its fate has been held since 1618 in annual commemoration
of the deliverance of reason and from the invasion of Cherkesses.
While we have toured around this important building, pilgrims began to arrive
from all sides. Most of them are at all ordinary people, simply dressed. They come in
silence, concentrating on impending church services. Many women come with her
handcraft. Even more crippled sick and injured people. As to before, I emerge the
Russia forgotten. Poor and very religious. My acquaintance, the Russian from
Kasimov, whispers to me, both in the assembled crowd has the most villagers and
workers from the suburbs of Ryazan. We are moving them ten meters. The
Episcopal Palace stands near the cathedral. The Chatedral of the Nativity was rebuilt
in the early part of the present county, on the site of a very ancient edifice. It
contains the relics of the famed Vasil, first Bishop of Murom and Ryazan, which were
removed hither from old Ryazan in 1592.
The next morning, we went on a trip to another place related to religion and the
history of Russia. One, when emperors ruled. We went to a village that is in Solotcha
25 km from Ryazan. This former village is now a suburban area. We arrive almost
official transfers to the monastery but part of the road, which suddenly became,
steep and narrow, crossing on foot. Let us get the layers of pine needles. I feel under
your feet to breathe ground under me. All around are pines forests and a strong and
pleasant smell of resin, as if I suddenly transferred to the atmosphere of this
sanctuary. We are going there to have visited the famous monastery.
The Solotchinsky monastery - was based on 10 years after Kulikovsky fight (in
1390) Prince Oleg Rjazansky. In Solotche is a monument to Nikolay Chudotvortsu,
which sculpture is a copy in Demre - a Turkish city where the sacred was born. It is a
figure with the hands lifted upwards to globe. The monastery founded by Grand
Prince Oleg in Ryazan in 1390 on a high bank of the river Staritsa (mouth of the
river Oka).
In an attractive natural environment, with many historical events in memory, the
monastery survived the conquest, but the floods and the Soviet prohibition of
activities. One of the monks tells us that in 1994, returned to the monastery
Solotchinsky Russian Orthodox Church and re-opened as. Story us a monk that the
church but the national and education facility was seriously threatened in 1768,
when the river eroded the steep bank of the Oka, Which is why part of the walls
collapsed and the Pokrovsky monastery church. However, today, here in Solotcha,
there are commercial buildings, recreational facilities, hotels and restaurants. These
place next believers visited by tourists and residents of Ryazan who are looking for
nature.
In return, in Ryazan, we heard the ring from The Bell Tower of the Ryazan Kremlin
- an architectural monument of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. In addition,
all this is Russia!

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ANDORRA
ZORAN SLAVIC

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THE MINIATURE PYRENEES PRINCIPALITY
OF ANDORRA

For years this state, European and not some of those from far-away world, it
was only a concept and not recognizable as a toponym in the minds of even the
knowledgeable and curious tourists. Therefore, when I arrived in Perpignan, the
place in France, I did not hesitate to Irene too deep in the hinterland, in the
Pyrenees, and headed up settlement called Andorra la Vella, which is the capital of
the state, is still quite unknown. Although, I will admit, the call of the nearby Port
Bou, coastal places in Spain, was very strong. It was a challenge for me, mainly
because of the literary reasons. Therefore, I turned to the right, into the hills. Then,
after about twenty kilometers of driving through the undulating landscape of the
Mediterranean, start ups, streamers, rapidly crossing the continental climate, and
soon after, the entry into the mountain area. In Pyrenees.
We drive to the foot of the snowy peaks. A curve is almost the same as those when
they arrive in Monaco. The road bent, bends, climbs and descends.
So, after more than two hours of amazing folding and separation, as well as holding
on to the Gordian Knot, - we come to the first border places. We arrived in Pas de la
Casa. Throughout the hour, and enough new serpentine, we saw Andorra la Vella, a
city of 20,000 inhabitants. At first sight, and later the impression is not significantly
changed, this is a country that its archaic and rustic, one might even say, civilization

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subspecies cultivated, refined and very successful in offering tourist clientele. With
an additional explanation: these small states successful maintenance authentic
culture and culinary specialties.
Located between Spain and France, Andorra was compacted in 468 square
kilometers, which seemed to dominate the mountain peaks of the Pyrenees. It is
interesting that its 65 peaks trifle higher than 2,500 meters. Three rivers, Orient
Valira, Valira Norte and Gran Valira, merge and in unity flowing through the capital.
Placed between two powerful, Imperials States, France and Spain, skill and
persistence, Andorra has existed for nearly eight hundred years. These states, as
well as Monaco and San Marino, has the status of a formal independent European
state. Its residents, there are about fifty thousand, proud and very persistent in their
eyes, as if to reflect the Pyrenees mountain peaks, originally speak three languages:
French, Spanish and Catalan, which is the official language of the principality. Real,
indigenous inhabitants of Andorra are the Catalan origin and this fact at each step
be communicated. In Andorra, in recent years, increasingly use English. For the
inhabitants of this country has become part of the global trends. Andorra resists in
all possible ways the expansion.
From the 1278th, when the feudal emperors, one on either side of the border,
signed a so-called'' Pareaž'', the first constitutional document Andorra, and the
subsequent decisions of Henri IV and Napoleon, and the corresponding decree of the
Spanish, established a dual sovereignty of Andorra. States formally ruled co-princes,
the French resident in Perpignan, while Spanish is enthroned in the Episcopal palace
Urgel.
Formally so, but life in Andorra is taking place as the miracle of civilization as
falling from the sky in a rural land of undreamed possibilities ... At least, that says, a
local writer and philosopher Anthony Morello

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IN THE HOME WHERE IS START OF ANDORRA: CASA
DE LA VALL

In Andorra, I went with the thinking that this is a real adventure. No matter
what the terms of the European country, located in the Pyrenees between France
and Spain, all previous findings me to the conclusion that it is a relic and a closed
country. Spending ten days in Andorra la Vella, the capital city-states, and tour
through almost her whole territory, I had to correct impressions. Andorra is today
the modern state, almost miniature but with all the elements of modern life,
technology, education and tourism resources. However the country that incredibly
persistent and meticulous respects and preserves the traditional forms, some would
say, national and archaic life. In the tradition of Andorra and unusual history
directly in, function tourist support accepted natural beauty. Adventures here, I
really have, but it is part of the presentation tourism in Andorra. Hunting, fishing,
skiing, hiking, mountain climbing - are part of a well-organized challenge.
Tour guides us on the first day of stay in the water The CASA dela Vall (House of
the Valley) in building in a typical Iberian mountain style, a dozen kilometers away,
whose name here spoken with incredible awe because that is the seat of the General
Council: Andorra's parliament. A building is emblematic because of its historical
significance. In 1419, an inter-parish organization, known as the Council of the Land,
was formed; it later became the General Council of the Valleys of Andorra.

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 Symbol of parliamentarians and originality and authenticity of direct state
management is this building, high in the hills sheltered from the invaders. Built in
the style of folk architecture, however noble the simple village homes, this three-
story building connects inside more functions and purposes. Externally see his
defensive purpose, as evident towers and loopholes. The interior of the Casa de la
Vall also shows versatility in use. Besides the hall where they held the session of
parliament, this facility includes a dining room, kitchen and bedroom. Andorra
ancient parliament, therefore, be able to work in difficult and emergency conditions.
For instance, the war on the environment or natural disasters, blizzards, avalanches
in winter. We should not forget that Andorra mountainous country with many kinds
of conflict. In this exceptional facility, besides functionality, it was thought and the
religion and art. I also see there some magnificent gothic frescoes representing the
passion of Christ.
Because, legend has it Emperor Charles founded that this country the Great -
Charlemagne, as a sign of gratitude for the help in the end fighting the Arabs. It was
the end of the eighth century. In circles historian and publicist of Andorra la Vella,
with a smile and recounts the event in 1933. The year when, with the help of some
residents Andorra, Russian Boris impostor, Boris Skosiref tried to declare for the
King of Andorra. However, as each passed the false king, infamously and failed. This
listing of very charming curator until we board the bus, which will lead us into the
modern life of Andorra. Beyond these and other heroic twists and allusions, La Vella
live dynamic and organized life. Thousands of tourists goes, comes and stays. In the
frame that looks like the old times while they enjoy the beauty of untouched nature
and cheap shopping paradise.

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ANDORRA
TWO SHRINE, ONE BRIDGE AND TROUT FROM
ENGOLASTERS LAKE

Yesterday we visited the Shrine of the Virgin of Meritxell in the village Canilo.
It was an unusual religious object. Specifically, in the parish Cannulae are the
remains of the famous Andorra shrines Meritxell (first record from 1172, the year),
the most important symbols of the local religion. The Blessed Virgin Meritxell
1878th was declared for the protector of the Principality. Unfortunately, I was a
national holiday in Andorra, 8 September 1972, ancient temple destroyed by the
fire. By damaged shrines built a new building, in a very bold architectural form that
they have enough association with the Romanesque sacral art. This ultra-modern
realization of the famous Spanish designs Ricardo Bifilar the still divides opinion
and religious feelings of the population of Andorra, as well as local historians, the
clergy and artists.
Today I am going to explore the shrine. After a relatively short drive on the
right track, which get in the way many curves, from the capital, Andorra la Vella, we
arrive in the valley, which houses the ancient and the famous church of Santa
Coloma de Andorra. It situated in a picturesque valley through which flows the river
Valira. May is the month, but on the surrounding peaks seen more snow. We stand
in front of the church; the altitude is about 1,000 feet, while all the surrounding
peaks over 2000 meters. Their names are Aixàs, Bixessarri and Canòlic.
While we are looking for a guide, who will give us important information about the
church, which is under protection of UNESCO, we are a bit confused its unusual

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overall dimensions of the building: an almost cylindrical tower is leaning on the
oblong stone, covered with a wooden roof. Since getting hold very long, resolve to
visit La Margineda, the same village located in the parish of Andorra la Vella. There
is a stone bridge. It recorded in the history of Andorra; it is a bridge to the 12th
century. This valuable the facility is a good example of Romanesque buildings. Pont
de la Margineda is the best preserved such a monument in Andorra. It raises high
above the water, more substantial than the current level of the river Valira, which is
evidence that, at one time, made for cases of severe flooding. Look around him, but
no one from the company dares to cross him. High above the river and ancient
works too! Guide, who has yet arrived, communicated that it is the largest and most
graceful of all medieval bridges in the Principality. It extends over 33 meters long
and its maximum height of 9.20 meters. The bridge, which reminds somewhat on
the donkey, paved throughout the structure, like the rest of the way.
Then, from Santa Julia de Loria we return to Santa Coloma, that we finally learn
the story of the sights. Mr. Miguel tells us that there is still before - Romanesque
building, with a rectangular nave, surmounted by a wooden frame, with a
quadrangular Apse. In the twelfth century, the church received a circular Lombard
bell tower, which is one of the only examples of its kind in the Pyrenees. While a lot
of walks in the dark interior of the church, the guide completes the explanation: the
master painter of Santa Coloma decorated the building with 12th-century
Romanesque mural paintings. These religious images are missing from Andorra in
1930. But the government of Andorra was able to return to the country 2007 The
church preserves a polychrome wooden statue of Our Lady of the Remedies (12th to
13th centuries) and a Baroque altarpiece (18th century) dedicated to Saint Coloma,
the church's patron saint. Surprisingly, these sculptures are more reminiscent of the
legacy of Maya and Aztecs.
Follow by the return of Andorra la Vella. We had lunch at the restaurant "Don
Denis" that relies on local, Catalan, kitchen. Interesting and impressiveness this
locally given countless dry ham hanging from the ceiling and create a challenging
gourmet experience. We had the impression that the great harm falling from the sky.
Tired but willing, we enjoyed in food. Dinner started with a plate of Iberian ham, and
for the main course, we had the grilled trout. The owner informed us that these
were fresh trout caught last night in Engolaster Lake. Do I need to say that I have
ham and trout were exceptional!

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283
CONTENTS

BEFORE YOU START TO READ THESE TRAVELS 4

SERBIA/ VOJVODINA
A SHOT AT THE SAINTS, IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE WORLD WAR II 6
BALCONY THAT HOLDS FOR THE TIME 8
BOSNIAKS WINDMILL 11
THIS IS A HALL, WHICH REMEMBERS HISTORY 13
RESTAURANT ACROSS THE STREET FROM ANCIENT BUFALO BILL'S CIRCUS 15
LAKE THAT REMEMBER MUSIC FRANZ LISZT 17
THE OLD BEGA - CARSKA BARA - IMPERIAL SWAMP 19
MELENCI IN MUD THAT HAS THE MAGIC: RUSANDA 21
„TISKI CVET „ (TISZA RIVER FLOWER) IN THE NOVI (NEW) BECEJ 23
THIS TOWN IS FOREVER FOR PAINTERS AND POETS 25
SOMBOR - TOWN AS PICTURES FROM KALEIDOSCOPE 27
LAKE THAT EVOKES RELAXED TIMELESSNESS 29
FROM SMALL INN TO WOMEN AND MALE BATHING 31
FORTRESS THAT LOOKS IN THE DANUBE 33
WHILE DANUBE FLOWS BETWEEN PETROVARADIN AND ŠTRAND 35
OVER “FRUSKA GORA” TO PAINTER SAVA ŠUMANOVIĆ 38
WITH ŠUMANOVIĆ’S BATHERS, SECRETLY 40
SID’S VISION: BETWEEN ŠUMANOVIĆ AND ILIJA BOSILJ 42
SUBOTICA, BORDERS AS DESTINY 44
ROAD TO MOŠORIN 47
DANUBE PARK IN NOVI SAD 49
BELGRADE FORTRESS IN WALK PRINCE MIHAILO WAY STREET 51
SREMSKI KARLOVCI, AN OUTDOOR MUSEUM 54
HILL'S TOWER PROTECTS CITY VRSAC 56
Titel Hill, HILL AS “INCIDENT” IN PLAIN 58
TRIP IN SOPOT. MONASTERY TRESIJE 60

CROATIA
RETURN TO ISLAND VIS 63
VISIT AQUARIUM AND RESTAURANT TRABAKUL 65
PULA, THE TOWN WITH THE PICTURE ARENA IN TIME 67
FROM THE HARBOR CITY ON THE DUCAL PALACE, STRADUN, AND LOKRUM 69
LANDSCAPE THAT EVOKES ODYSSEY 71

ITAY

STORY OF THE LEANING TOWER OF PISA 75

WHEN I SAY: VENICE: I THINK ELEGY 77
IN VENICE, THINKING ABOUT PRAGUE AND RILKE 79
RIMINI, THE PLACE WHERE THE EUROPE RESTED 81

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RIMINI IN AUTUMN 83
FRANCESCA, DANTE’S INSPIRATION 85

SAN MARINO
MIDDLE AGE AT THE FOOT OF MONTE TITANO 89
TOWN THAT IS LIVING MUSEUM 91
THREE TOWERS ON THE HILL WHERE WAS AND THE WHALE 93

FRANCE
A PROMENADE THAT LEADS DIRECTLY INTO MOVIES 96
LUMIERE BROTHERS OF UNDERWATER SAFARI 98
FROM SPAIN TO FRANCE AND ALL FOR THE SAKE OF ANDORRA 100
LITTLE PROMENADE AZURE LANDSCAPES 103
GALAXY ART ON THE HILL 105
GOOD PLACE FOR LIVING AND PAINTING 107
THE LANDING FOR BIG SHIPS 109
AVIGNON DATES LAWRENCE DURRELL 111
A SMALL TOWN FULL OF ART 113
THE ARENA AND A DROP OF SPANISH BLOOD 115
GRASSE, FRAGONARD IN THE HOMELAND OF SCENTS 117
CITY OF RED PYRENEAN STONE 119
WHERE FRANCE CONNECTING WITH SPAIN 121
WINTER TRIP FROM CANNES TO ANTIBES 123
LITTLE PROMENADE AZURE LANDSCAPES 125
NORMANDY: IN THE WAKE OF MARCEL PROUST 127
CHATEAU IN THE HOMELAND OF TARTARIN TARASKON 129
IN DUNGEON COUNT OF MONTE CRISTO 131
CASSIS, WHERE THERE IS THE END OF THE CÔTE D'AZUR 133
THE CITY IN WHICH THE POPES ''HIBERNATING'' 135
AT THE BORDER BETWEEN FRENCH AND SPAIN: CERBERE 137
LE BELVEDERE DU RAYON VERT - AS SHIP ON LAND 139
MY THREE "MEETING" WITH NATURE PARK CAMARGUE 141
VAN GOGH`S INSPIRATION AND HALLUCINATION IN ARLES 144
LOOKING FROM MOUNT FARON AT OLD TOWN IN TOULON 147

MONACO
STORY ABOUT GRACE KELLY, PRINCESS OF MONACO 150
VISITING THE PRINCESS PALACE 152
OCEANOGRAPHIC MUSEUM 154
WONDERFUL WORLD FROM THE SEA 156
CASINO, OR WHETHER THE MONTE CARLO WAS CREATED
AS A RESULT OF GAMBLING PASSION 158

285
SPAIN
OVER THE HILLS AND THEN AMONG THE BULLS 161
ARENA AT THE END OF THE TRACKS 163
MOVABLE FEAST 165
CITY ON TOP OF THE BASALTIC ROCK 167
SALVADOR DALI AND HIS FIGUERES 169
BENJAMIN: MEMORIES: MONUMENT 171
GAUDI`S NEURALGIC MONUMENT 173
BARCELONA, TRAIL PICASSO LES DEMOISELLES D'AVIGNON 176
BLACK MADONNA FROM CATALONIA 178
BLACK MADONNA LEGENDS AND PRESENT 180

HUNGARY
RIVER ISLAND THAT DANUBE TOUCHING 183
CRUISERS SHIPS ON THE DANUBE 185
STANDING IN FRONT OF SZEGED SYNAGOGUE 187
FERENC MORA MUSEUM 189
MISKOLC AND ITS VACATION AREAS 191
TRIP IN CASTLE DIOSGYOR BY RED TRAM 193
TOUR OF SYNAGOGUE, CATHEDRALS AND MOSQUES, ON THE SAME DAY 195
IN TOWN WHOSE CERAMICS PAVED EUROPE 197
BALATON, IN THE MIDDLE OF FORMER SEA - LAKE 199
BLUE TOUR THROUGH TOKAY PARADISE 201
EGER 1 WINES THAT MAKE LIFE MORE BEAUTIFUL 203
WALK THROUGH HUNGARIAN VINEYARD AND THE HISTORICAL MONUMENT 205
ALL SECRETS VALLEY OF THE BEAUTIFUL WOMEN 207
FROM THE TOP OF THE CASTLE EGER TO THE CAVE AGGTELEK 209

CHECH REPUBLIK
SEIFERT`S PRAGUE 212
A LOOK FROM CHARLES BRIDGE, AT A TIME 214
OVER THE VLTAVA, IN MUSEUM OF THE CZECH MUSIC 216
METAMORPHOSIS OF FRANZ KAFKA 218
TRIP TO PRAGUE LOOKING FOR HRABAL 220
EUROPE INTO THE CZECH SPA 222
MUSIC WITH THE HEAVEN PRAGUE 224
LOOKING FOR HEALTH AND LEISURE IN KARLOVY VARY 226
PLZEN STORIES ABOUT BEER AND THE UNDERWORLD 228
IN CELLAR – BEER, IN PARKS – DINOSAURS 230
BRNO - CITY THAT IS HARD TO FORGET 232
BRNO, TOWN REAL AND MIRACULOUS 234
TWO PLEASANT DAYS IN TOWN TEPLICE 236
AS PROOF OF STAY IN PRAGUE 238
KONOPISTE, HISTORY, TRAGEDY, MELODRAMA 240
TEREZIN - WAY THAT LEADS TO CATHARSIS 242

286
FROM CZECH TO GERMANY AND BACK FRANTISKOVY LAZNE TO AMBERG 244

SLOVAKIA
BRATISLAVA, SLOVAK CITY ON THE DANUBE 247
TRIP TO PEISTANY 249

AUSTRIA
BY TRYING ESCAPE FROM THE HISTORY 252
FROM PRATER UP TO SCHOENBRUNN OVER FOOTBALL GAME 254
KARLSPLATZ IS INSTANT STORY ABOUT VIENNA 256

GERMANY
BEER FOAM WITH SEVEN HILLS 259
IN THE KINGDOM OF BEER 261
FROM BRUECKENRATHAUS OVER ALTSTADT TO KARL MAY 263

RUSSIA

BETWEEN HISTORY, ILLUSIONS AND AWAKENING 266

FROM MOSCOW TO RYAZAN 268
POETRY AS A CONDITIONED REFLEX: YESENIN AND RUSSIA 270
TRIP TO RYAZAN AND YESENIN MUSEUM 272
RYAZAN: FROM KREMLIN TO THE MONASTERY SOLOTCHA 274

ANDORRA
THE MINIATURE PYRENEES PRINCIPALITY OF ANDORRA 277
IN THE HOME WHERE IS START OF ANDORRA: CASA DE LA VALL
ANDORRA 279
TWO SHRINE, ONE BRIDGE AND TROUT FROM ENGOLASTERS LAKE 281

ZORAN SLAVIC MAY EUROPEAN PART OF THE WORD

287
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
ZORAN SLAVIC (ZORAN SLAVIĆ)
(1945, Zrenjanin. Serbian)

Born in Zrenjanin. In Banat and Vojvodina. Serbian

citizen. He graduated the Faculty of Philology in
Belgrade. He writes poetry, fiction, literary, theater and
art criticism and journalism. Author of many different
genres of television projects. Reflected in the form of
radio drama. Worked in publishing. Longstanding
culture editor of TV Novi Sad.
He has published the following books:
Short story:
'' Solitude'' (1972) '' Fire in the bottom of the summer''
(2007)
Novels:
''Jump to insomnia'' (1985),'' The time bites" (1998),'' Back to the solitude'' (2000)
and '' Walter Benjamin in intercity bus'' (2011).
Poetic book:
'' Ilusion'' of silver (1974), '' RINSE OWN HOMELAND (1982),'' COVERED WITH
HISTORY (1995), '' Rise of the images' '(1996),'' GETTING OUT OF THE PAINTING''
(1997),'' Disturbed balance" (1998) and '' A hundred years later’’
(2004),
A BOOK OF ESSAYS " WRITING AGAINST OBLIVION'' published in 2005. Lives in
Zrenjanin.
Currently preparing for the Amazon Kindle two books, travel writing, "My European
part of the world" and the story collection "The fire is the bottom of the summer,"
which, in Serbian, already sold in Amazon.
As E-books, books in electronic form so far published the following articles:''
MOMENT OF AND EXIT OF (poetry), '' Zrenjanin early works (essays),'' Zrenjanin.
TOWN SPACE IN TIME'' (visual essays (,'''' Six theater festivals (Essays on Theatre),''
flowed'' weeks (log prose), and'' Diary of Vojvodina 61st festival Theatre and a
record of Kolumbina'' (recordings of theater) '' My European part of the world''
(travels)
Daily records, surveys essays, travel stories, potry published on his Facebook
account:
https://www.facebook.com/zoran.slavic
My mail is zoranslavic@yahoo.com

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