MUSTANG

Savvy PA R T T W O

No sooner had we got the last edition of AIR

Modeller to print than I began to clear the
decks in preparation to start painting the new
Mustang.

Colour schemes were still undecided but I

wanted to move away from the kit markings
and I wanted a bare metal finish as this
typified the aircraft for me and I was looking
forward to the challenge of a metal finish, not
something that I have much experience with
apart from one previous attempt. Whilst I
was mulling over a subject aircraft Kagero
announced a new range of decals with the
first set offering markings for Pacific theatre
Mustangs. These immediately captured my
imagination with the bright green tail and I
ordered a set of the decals.

Looking at period photos of the Mustang

many were in less than pristine condition and
their metal skins were scuffed and dulled
which was the kind of finish that I wanted to
replicate if I could. With very limited bare
metal experience I decided to run some tests
on the spare sample parts that we had been
sent before applying any shiny paint to the
aircraft.

I have recorded my progress throughout the

painting process which I hope will be helpful
and give some pointers to getting the best
from this superb kit.

T A M I Y A’ S N E W 1 : 3 2 N O R T H A M E R I C A N P - 5 1 D M U S T A N G
M O D E L L E D BY DAV I D PA R K E R

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Painting began with the green tail and the Olive drab anti-glare
panel, both of which were painted with Gunze acrylics and then
masked off in preparation for the bare metal finish.
Polished
unpolished
The model seen here with its overall coat of Alclad Aluminium
applied and looking very shiney.
The panel running around the exhausts was masked and painted
with Alclad Dark Aluminium and Pale Burnt Metal.
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Gunze semi- Mr Surfacer Polished Lifecolor Matt
gloss mid grey 500 plastic mid grey
Testing the best paint finish on a spare wing I divided the wing into
sections and applied three different primer finished over a pre-
polished surface. I then applied two different Aluminium finishes
lengthways over the primers, the front half Mr Metal colour
Aluminium and the rear half in Alclad Aluminium. Mr Metal colour
can be buffed so half of this area was polished with a soft cloth.
Mr Metal Color
Aluminium
Alclad
Aluminium
I also applied small patches of varnish to test the effect of this over
the two aluminiums. I thought that the Mr Metal Color gave the
most realistic aluminium finish especially over the semi-gloss grey.
The buffable finish allows for a more natural variation in tones but it
remained slightly unstable, lifting off on my fingertips. Before
making a final decision I also tested how decals would sit on the
finishes. I used spare decals from the kit and applied them to my
two shortlisted finishes, Alclad onto polished plastic and Mr Metal
Color over semi-gloss grey. In this test the Alclad performed
noticeably better with little or no trace of the carrier film. This last
test was the decider and I went ahead with Alclad Aluminium
applied over the polished plastic.
On the fuselage each panel was masked and a random mottle of
pale grey Vallejo Air was oversprayed loosely following the panel
lines and rivet patterns. The radiator area was treated in the same
way but with darker greys and very diluted black.
A coat of gloss varnish was applied to the fuselage and a sponge
was used to apply more Vallejo Air grey, sometimes over a panel
that had been moistened to give a random effect. Before the grey
dried it can be modified by dabbing with a dry sponge. The varnish
sealed the base and helped prevent the paints moving on the
polished Alcad finish which was causing problems.
Turning to the wings I was not happy with the filler on the panels
and rivets so I went over this again with fine white Miliput. In
retrospect I would not waste my time and would leave the wings
as they come in the kit.
The panel lines and rivet patterns were picked out in grey oil paint
which will wipe off the varnish. When wiped from a line of rivets the
oil paint leaves a very faint stain on the surface which helps with
the tarnished finish.
I masked the control surfaces and re-sprayed the wing with Alclad
followed by a thin coat of diluted white acrylic to give the wing a
more painted finish. You can see the difference in finish between
the wing and the flaps.
Here the grey oil wash has been applied to the armament bay
covers over a coat of gloss varnish and to the control surfaces. 15
 Ready for some markings this was the
first time I could see the effect of the
green tail against the bare metal.The
airframe already had a gloss varnish
finish so no further preparation was
needed.

Time to apply some decals and the Kagero Red Series Pacific Printing on the pin up was exceptionally good. A touch of gloss
Mustangs sheet performed superbly and were applied with Mr varnish on the Olive drab panel would have avoided the slight
Mark Softer. show of the carrier film or trimming around the foot.

I was so pleased with how the Kagero decals performed that I I had not yet weathered the tail so the panel lines and rivets were
chose to use their national markings too. Before applying them I picked out in a dark green oil paint and then wiped clean in the
oversprayed them with some Gunze tan to knock them back and same way as on the bare metal elements.
16 discolour the white areas.
The ‘No Step’ demarcation on the flap is provided as decal in the A brush and warm water was used to scrub away parts of the red
kit but I wanted a worn version. I masked the outline and sprayed to expose the aluminium and give a worn finish.
hairspray followed by a coat of red Gunze.

The distinctive oil stain down the fuselage can be seen in many period photos and the Kagero colour profiles
also indicated one. I began by spraying a very dilute dark brown line down the fuselage and then Lifecolor
Tenscrom Oil was used to brush paint the streaks in differing densities. Oil paint was also used to touch in
parts and more dilute shades were used to trail off the fuselage.

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 Time to add exhaust stains down the fuselage, and with the The acrylic paint can be lifted from the varnished surface while
exhausts loosely masked I sprayed some dilute brown and grey freshly applied so I used a damp brush to lift off the exhaust in the
Lifecolor. area around the cockpit.

The wheels were finished separately using Alclad Aluminium as a The central undercarriage doors can be plugged into
base again. Oil washes were used to tone down the finish in the place after they have been finished which is a help.
same way as the rest of aircraft.

Photos of the undersides of the real aircraft show plenty of A close up of the radiator area showing the oil streaks running
streaking and stains. To replicate these I used AK Interactive from the different access panels.
Winter Streaking Grime which has a good oily look and this was
brush painted in differing densities.

The machine gun barrels were picked out in Mr Metal Color Dark The exhausts were finished in Gunze Burnt Iron and the tips
18 Iron which was then rubbed to give a polished look painted black. A wash of off white oil paint was used to create the
effect of the hot gasses on the tips.
The staining from the gun ejector ports was added with some
black pigments applied with a soft brush.
The antenna cable is made from stretchy EZ line glued to a small
brass wire spring attached to the back of the seat. The tail end of
the line is passed through the canopy before it is glued.
Looking back over the project it has been immensely enjoyable
but it is not without one or two flaws some of which only really
emerged during the later stages. The rubber main wheels have a
prominent centre seam which is virtually impossible to remove.
Two-part plastic versions would have been a useful addition to the
kit. The arrangements for the raised or lowered undercarriage is a
toy-like gimmick which forces compromises to the paint finish.
Unless you want to paint the model with the undercarriage fitted
you will have to leave the wing leading edge covers separate until
The seam line has been removed from the canopy and a hole is
carefully drilled for the antenna cable.
The completed antenna cable in position. The twin wooden antenna
are for the ‘Uncle Dog’ homing system fitted to Pacific theater
aircraft and were painted with oil paint over an acrylic base.
the wheels are installed. Blending the joint lines around these
covers A11 & A12 with the rest of the wing is not easy. If you have
fitted the dorsal cover Q2 during assembly (and you have to in
order to blend panel lines) you cannot slide in the rear canopy
unless you cut off the two pegs on the runner. I would recommend
that you don’t fit the swing brace arms to the bomb racks before
painting. All mine were destroyed during the painting process but l
was fortunate to have spares on the test shots we were sent. I
don’t like the centre seam down the spine of the canopy and
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 there was still some distortion on mine after it was
cleaned off and polished. A choice of different
style rear view mirrors would also have improved
the package and given modellers more flexibility in
choosing a subject aircraft.

Tamiya have done a superb job with their Mustang

which is a delight to assemble and really
beautifully engineered. The design of the kit
suggests that we will see further versions of this kit
in due course, I would guess that a Korean War
version and Pacific theatre version would be the
most likely. Would I build another one? That is
always a good question at the end of a build.
Absolutely, Yes! To those who may grumble at the
price of the kit I would say that this is a kit that
accurately reflects the asking price. It is not cheap
but it is probably one of the best plastic aircraft
kits along with Tamiya’s Spitfires that you will ever
build. One to add to the top of your list of must
build kits without any doubt.

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