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RJTA
25,3 Technology adoption in the
apparel industry: insight from
literature review and
292 research directions
Received 16 August 2020 Md Aynul Hoque, Rajah Rasiah,
Revised 27 October 2020
12 December 2020 Fumitaka Furuoka and Sameer Kumar
16 January 2021
Accepted 23 January 2021
Universiti Malaya, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Abstract
Purpose – This paper aims to identify key theoretical cornerstones and research trends in the apparel
industry. It also compares theoretical bases with those of the general research domain in technology adoption
literature and, thus, provides future policy guidelines for practitioners and research gaps for further studies.
Design/methodology/approach – Documents were collected from the Web of Science (core collection)
database using systematic methods. The bibliometric coupling and co-citation analyses were conducted using
VOSviewer software to construct theoretical cornerstones and research trends in the apparel industry.
Findings – Literature in the apparel industry focuses mainly on the diffusion of innovation and the theory
of reasoned action. Hence, the literature lacks investigations of technology–organization–environment and
institutional theories for technology adoption in the apparel industry. This study also traces six clusters of
prevalent research trends: radiofrequency identification, virtual-try on technology for e-commerce, computer-
aided design, Industry 4.0 technologies, virtual-try on technology in design and information technology.
Originality/value – Little research is done on theoretical cornerstones on technology adoption in the
apparel industry. This study looks into the theoretical bases for technology adoption, research trends in the
apparel supply chain and calls for future research necessities.
Keywords Clothing, Fashion, Technology adoption, Apparel, Bibliometric analysis, Garment
Paper type Literature review
1. Introduction
Technological capability is a key production factor (Lall, 1992) that enhances firms’
competitive advantage (Chandran and Rasiah, 2013; Teece and Pisano, 2003). Schumpeter
(1934) and Solow (1956) argued the importance of innovation and technology in driving
firms’ competitive advantage. However, the technological capability approach is preferred to
the total factor productivity approach pioneered by Solow (1956). Concerning the fashion
supply chain (FSC), technology adoption has become a prominent feature over the past three
decades. Some studies (Rasiah, 2007; Teece et al., 1997) focus on technological capability and
export performance, while others (Chandran and Rasiah, 2013; Rasiah, 2006) focus on
economic performance as well as factors such as research and development, organization
size and ownership of technological capability. However, few studies (Rasiah, 2007; Teece
et al., 1997) have examined how technological capabilities relate to firm-level performance.
Research Journal of Textile and
Apparel
The literature on technology and innovation adoption typically reveals common
Vol. 25 No. 3, 2021 determinants and innovation adoption theories at the individual and organization levels
pp. 292-307
© Emerald Publishing Limited
1560-6074
DOI 10.1108/RJTA-08-2020-0090 This research was funded by Universiti Malaya under the project GPF 001S-2019.
(Keupp et al., 2012; Tidd, 2001; van Oorschot et al., 2018). However, the literature on Technology
technology adoption segregated to a sector-specific level is scarce. The determinants of adoption in the
technology adoption and the applicability of innovation diffusion theories vary across the
manufacturing and service sectors.
apparel
Hence, this study asserts that a clothing industry-specific literature review is timely industry
because literature on the adoption of technology in the FSC is growing fast and necessity
arises to identify sector-specific determinants and research trends.
The fashion industry has immense global trade value and impact on society, 293
especially as an employer (Yang et al., 2017). To exploit its potential, it has increasingly
focused on environmental impact, sustainability and technology adoption owing to rising
pressure in global markets to strengthen environmental and labor governance. Although
the supply chain is globally dispersed, apparel products are mostly exported from China,
Bangladesh, India and Vietnam, with the top ten exporters of apparel products in 2018
being China, the European Union (EU), Bangladesh, Vietnam, India, Hong Kong,
Indonesia, Turkey, Cambodia and the USA (Lu, 2019). As the low value-added production
of apparel products requires a low-skilled labor force, some developing countries such as
Bangladesh, India and Vietnam have capitalized on the opportunity to promote
industrialization based on clothing exports (Gereffi and Memedovic, 2003). The
proliferation of Industry 4.0 (I4.0) technologies through the infusion of artificial
intelligence (AI) in robots, big data analytics (BDA), internet of things (IoT), cloud
computing and digital infrastructure has attracted apparel manufacturing back to
developed countries. Automation of some processes and smart manufacturing present
opportunities to reestablish low value-added production in developed countries, which
increasingly poses existential threats to millions of low-skilled workers, especially in
South and Southeast Asian nations. In the age of digitalization and rapid technological
innovation, the labor-intensive clothing industry has no choice but to upgrade its
technology, which can only be achieved through the re-training of workers to handle
automation, IoT, BDA and other I4.0 technologies.
This article aims to present a bibliometric review of technology adoption in the apparel
industry from 1990–2019 and, specifically, construct a theoretical framework of technology
adoption in the fashion industry and compare it with existing theoretical bases discussed by
van Oorschot et al. (2018), trace technology adoption trends and identify the scope and
direction for future research in the apparel sector.
2. Methodology
2.1 Data
A bibliometric review of scholarly publications was conducted that focuses on technology
adoption in the apparel or fashion industry. A five-step literature review method was
adapted from Mascarenhas et al. (2018), as shown in Figure 1. The database includes
documents on the theories and determinants of technological innovations and adoptions in
the FSC. Concomitantly, articles focusing on mathematics, nanotechnology, the chemistry of
textiles and clothing, computer science, environmental science, biological sciences and
engineering were excluded, while documents from business, economics and management
were selected for the final analysis.
First, keywords were carefully chosen to search for texts on the Web of Science (WoS)
database core collections from 1971–2019. Literature on the adoption of technology in the
FSC started in the late 1990s, although it is predicated by a few decades in other industries.
Titles and abstracts of documents that contain the terms “technology adoption in garment
or fashion or apparel or clothing industry,” “CAD/CAM in the clothing and garment
RJTA
25,3
294
Figure 1.
The protocol of
literature search and
analysis
industry,” “digital technologies in fashion and apparel industry” and “Industry 4.0 in
fashion or apparel or clothing industry” were included in this research. The keywords were
carefully checked in the documents’ titles that appeared in the search results. In the review
process, conference papers, book reviews and working papers were deliberately removed.
Only published texts (journal articles and book chapters) were selected for analysis. Initially,
579 documents resulted from the WoS database search. However, 510 published texts were
excluded because their focus on technology in the fashion industry was from a societal or
materials technology aspect and, hence, irrelevant to the objective of this study. Finally, 69
relevant articles and book chapters were retained for this study.
2.2 Method
As the bibliometric review process does not depend on the reviewers’ knowledge of the
domain, it is the preferred approach for a systematic literature analysis (van Oorschot et al.,
2018). This study uses the visualization of similarities approach to identify bibliometric
network coupling and clusters using VOSviewer software version 1.6.13.
This study relied primarily on co-citation and bibliographic coupling analyses to identify
thematic similarities and patterns in technology adoption in the fashion industry based on
published articles and book chapters. Co-citation refers to the number of occurrences where
two or three articles or book chapters are cited by other documents (White and McCain,
1998). Thus, co-citation signifies the similarities among cited papers and identifies
intellectually interconnected articles. Therefore, co-citation analysis helps to identify
theoretical bases (see Figure 5) that dominate any field of knowledge. While co-citation
analysis identifies the theoretical cornerstones of a knowledge domain, bibliographic
coupling traces the ongoing research trends within a branch of knowledge. Bibliographic
coupling examines the set of documents that cite the same set of previously published texts
and outlines ongoing research trends (Boyack and Klavans, 2010) and our analysis
illustrates the current research trends in the apparel industry, as depicted in Figure 6.
3. Results Technology
This analysis indicates that 69 documents were produced by different authors, according to adoption in the
their institutional affiliations, from 30 countries. As depicted in Figure 2, 19 studies were
conducted at institutes in China (including mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwan), 16 in
apparel
the USA and 34 in the EU. Three regions – China, the USA and the EU, being the largest industry
manufacturers of apparel products – accounted for 63 of the 69 articles (91%). China
produced the most scholarly publications, followed by the USA and the EU. In addition to
these three regions, Bangladesh, India, Cambodia, Vietnam and Pakistan are also significant
295
contributors to the garment manufacturing and export business. However, these countries
are far behind in conducting research and producing scholarly articles on technology
adoption in the FSC.
A total of 69 selected documents originate from 55 different sources listed in the WoS
core database. Figure 3 depicts the number of scholarly texts chosen from various journals.
Most studies, as indicated, were published in six journals and publications – relatively
Figure 2.
Number of articles on
apparel industry
technology adoption
by country
Figure 3.
Number of
publications on
technology adoption
in the apparel
industry by different
journals included in
this review
RJTA concentrated in textile and clothing focused journals. The significant sources of literature on
25,3 technology adoption within the apparel sector are the Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management (three articles), International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology (four
articles), Fashion Supply Chain Management Using Radio Frequency Identification
Technologies (three articles), Decision Support Systems (three articles), Computer-aided
Design (three articles) and Artificial Intelligence for the Fashion Industry in the Big Data Era
296 (three articles).
Figure 4.
Illustration of cluster
formation
Technology
adoption in the
apparel
industry
297
Figure 5.
Theoretical
cornerstones adopted
in the apparel
industry
collected for this study. Hence, clusters A and B form based on the co-cited documents, and
they are referred as theoretical cornerstones of technology adoption in the FSC.
Cluster A (see cluster 6 in Figure 5) comprises two sub-clusters. Sub-cluster A1 revolves
around the TPB (Ajzen, 1991), sub-cluster A2 around the TAM (Davis, 1989) and cluster B
rests on the DOI theory (Rogers, 2010). The literature on technology adoption using
institutional theories and the technology–organization–environment (TOE) framework
proposed by Tornatzky et al. (1990) is very scarce in the apparel industry. Hence, co-citation
analysis clarifies two future research scopes of technology acceptance studies in the FSC:
institutional theories and determinants of technology acceptance.
3.1.1 Sub-cluster A1: theory of planned behavior. TPB, an extension of the TRA posited
by Fishbein and Ajzen (1975), is widely used to predict social behavior from a psycho-social
perspective. In addition to attitudes and subjective norms, TRA, perceived behavior control
was added to TPB as the third factor to forecast individuals’ actions. Combining the third
factor resolves the limitation of TRA as a static model. As people’s perceptions are
fluctuating, fluid and changing over time, depending on different social and educational
factors, perceived behavior control, concomitantly, changes as a dynamic construct to the
TPB.
3.1.2 Sub-cluster A2: technology acceptance model. The TAM is widely accepted and
applied to predict the adoption of information technology (IT) (Chi, 2018), mostly at the
individual level. TAM (Davis, 1989) explains that IT adoption considers perceived ease of
use and perceived usefulness of IT (Chi, 2018). Subsequently, TAM2 and TAM3 were
developed to predict the intention and adoption of IT more accurately in complex settings.
The basic underlying assumptions of all versions of TAM show causal relationships that
intention and actual usage of ITs depend on the decision-maker’s attitudes, perceived ease of
use and perceived usefulness of a particular IT or system. Thus, TAM is an extension of
TRA and TPB for IT adoption.
3.1.3 Cluster B: diffusion of innovation theory. DOI, adapted by Rogers (2010), was
originally proposed in 1960 and is the first published theory in the literature on innovation
adoption and to date is cited with the highest frequency in subsequent studies. It examines
innovation from a system perspective and discusses the importance of networked actors,
which makes the theory applicable to different technologies and at different phases of a
RJTA technology life cycle. DOI proposes four elements, innovation, communication channels, time
25,3 and social system, to disseminate technology. DOI explains the diffusion life cycle with five
types of adopters: innovators, early adopters, early majority, laggards and leapfroggers. It
also illustrates different strategies to disseminate and adopt innovations following the
stages of any technological innovation along the S-curve of adoption. The most cited
technology adoption theories used in the apparel industry are presented in Table 1.
298 Interestingly, no new technology adoption theory is being researched in the FSC except
various revised versions of mentioned ones in Table 1.
3.2 Bibliographic coupling: trend analysis of technology adoption in the fashion supply chain
Using a bibliographic coupling analysis, this study traces the trends of technology adoption
in the FSC over the period 1990–2019, as illustrated in Figure 6. This study categorizes the
research trends of technology adoption into six distinct and dominant clusters:
radiofrequency identification (RFID) in the FSC, virtual try-on technology (VTO) for online
apparel shopping, I4.0 in garment manufacturing and FSC, computer-aided design (CAD)
and its impact on garment manufacturing, IT and its impact and VTO for garment design.
Total citation
(including Google scholar)
Reference Title WoS citation as of December 2019
Figure 6.
Cluster network of
research trends in
FSC
3.2.1 Cluster 1: radiofrequency identification in the fashion supply chain. RFID minimizes Technology
human interactions by tracking and transferring items using radio signals, achieving an adoption in the
error-free quick response from suppliers to manufacturing to forward distributors and
retailers in the FSC (Tajima, 2013). Thus, to respond to the customer demand and novel agile
apparel
supply chain networks, RFID adoption is a growing phenomenon among fashion industry industry
partners in both backward and forward linkages. Azevedo and Carvalho (2012) show that
the adoption of RFID fosters inherent benefits, such as quick response, efficiency, accuracy
and speed in logistics and fast distribution. However, compared to their potential, 299
implementations of RFID technology in the apparel sector are limited (Legnani et al., 2011).
Therefore, there is scope for researchers to examine and explore various enablers and
inhibitors of RFID adoption along the entire FSC. Some studies extrapolate the potential of
using modified RFID in the I4.0 era of the fashion industry.
Azevedo and Carvalho (2012) conducted case studies to examine drivers of RFID
adoption in six companies – one manufacturer, one distributor and three retailers – from the
FSC. They also compared their exploratory outcomes with selected articles on RFID
deployment from Emerald, EBSCO, ProQuest and ScienceDirect. Hence, their scholarly text
can be considered as a benchmark to compare the benefits and demerits of RFID in the FSC.
As conventional tracking systems of stock-keeping units/items are labor-intensive and time-
consuming, RFID deployment has many advantages over traditional methods. The most
valuable benefit is tracking inventories to minimize stock-outs, which, in turn, maintains
smooth production and operations to deliver orders on time. According to Azevedo and
Carvalho (2012), all six companies in the selected case studies of FSC achieved the
minimization of stock-outs and timely order deliveries as a common benefit. RFID-enabled
ordering systems can place accurate orders in terms of size, variety and volume by
monitoring real-time information on sales and product movements in the host–computer
database, thus reducing stock outs and material handling time while increasing customer
satisfaction. Other prominent benefits are improved visibility of containers and materials in
FSC logistics and cost savings. Case studies by Chan (2016) on Zara, Marks and Spencer and
American apparel companies support significant improvement in the visualization of
product flows in the FSC, efficiency in inventory management and enhanced customer
relationship management. The most applied aspects of RFID in FSC are shop floor
management, logistics, distribution management and customer relationship management
(Chan, 2016).
Despite these benefits, some shortcomings and barriers exist with RFID implementation.
The high initial investment and recurring costs are major reported disadvantages of
deploying RFID in FSC. The second most-cited barrier that creates a reluctance to use RFID
by employees is the inter-operability with existing systems of the organization. Thus, the
compatibility of technology, a critical driver discussed in DOI, is relevant to disseminating
RFID.
With the advent of digital technologies and the combination of RFID with smart dressing
systems (SDS), intelligent product selling systems are emerging as a new source of
competition among fashion retailers (Wong et al., 2014). RFID-enabled SDS can more
effectively promote new designs and clothes to customers, and introduces a new strategy for
online product marketing and selling. Retailers traditionally use database marketing
predicated on data mining techniques to evaluate consumer purchasing behavior. However,
these techniques cannot capture the latest tastes of customers, as they rely on the entire
database of customers’ past shopping trends. SDS has real-time data collection and analysis
features to predict changing shopping tastes (Wong et al., 2014). Thus, RFID, combined with
SDS, can significantly exploit these benefits over conventional database marketing by
RJTA capturing the latest preferences or tastes of customers. This intelligent system of RFID has
25,3 the potential to be deployed in fashion 4.0 in the coming era of smart manufacturing.
Additionally, technological and organizational factors such as size, competitive pressure,
top management support, complexity, relative advantage and technological competence are
the main determinants of RFID adoption in the manufacturing industry (Wang et al., 2010),
and thus are applicable to the FSC. Moreover, relevant studies were conducted using case
300 study methods, as shown in Table 2, and thus future studies should examine these factors in
the apparel supply chain.
3.2.2 Cluster 2: virtual try-on technology for online apparel shopping. Although retail
sales through e-commerce are globally on the rise for many products, it is not significant for
apparel e-shopping (Jai and Tung, 2015). The existing two-dimensional (2D) form of online
apparel shopping lacks actual-fitting and product experiences, resulting in an insignificant
amount of apparel e-shopping. Colombi et al. (2018) suggest that interactive digital
technology can enhance the pervasive experience of online shoppers. Additionally, Chi
(2018) indicated that complex websites of apparel retailers capture accurate information
about products and increase feedback to customers. Thus, three-dimensional (3D) VTO
technologies are emerging to enhance both the entertainment value of online shopping and
sales of apparel products. Some influential studies (Dennis et al., 2009; Kim and Forsythe,
2008; Merle et al., 2012) adopted the enabling sensory TAM, an extension of TAM based on
a combination of TRA and TPB.
VTO technologies can offer features such as 3D rotations and simulations that attract
more online shoppers into the fashion retailing market. Studies by Kim and Forsythe (2008)
and Chi (2018) find technology anxiety and difficulty level as inhibitors of apparel e-shopping.
Therefore, newly developed user-friendly VTO versions, fostering enhanced online fitting
experiences, are a possible solution to attract and retain more online apparel shoppers.
Although VOSviewer includes smart clothing articles (Fernandez-Caramés and Fraga-
Lamas, 2018; Hwang et al., 2016) in cluster 2, these articles are primarily related to
prospective factors influencing adoption by consumers. Thus, they are relevant to I4.0 and
were subsequently analyzed under cluster 3. The most-cited documents of this cluster were
conducted using quantitative methods (as shown in Table 3), and some studies using
qualitative methods are also necessary to explore the adoption drivers of VTO technology.
3.2.3 Cluster 3: Industry 4.0 in garment manufacturing and fashion supply chain. The
German Government first coined the term I4.0 in 2011 to assimilate digital technologies in
the manufacturing industry (Bertola and Teunissen, 2018). The EU, USA, China and Japan
followed Germany in adopting I4.0 technologies as an essential element of the new
manufacturing paradigm. Currently, I4.0 technologies are a central theme of the fourth
industrial revolution. As a new paradigm of smart manufacturing – launched in 2011 –
WoS
Reference Title Journal citations Method
5. Conclusion
In conclusion, this review of published documents, available on the WoS core database, has
identified dominant theoretical themes and traced distinctive research trends of technology
adoption in FSC. To the best of our knowledge, this study is the first initiative in the
RJTA bibliographic literature review concerning technology adoption in the apparel industry.
25,3 Thus, it contributes to the existing body of knowledge in numerous ways. First, it identifies,
based on a bibliographic coupling analysis, six trends in the clothing industry: RFID in the
FSC; VTO for online apparel shopping; I4.0 in garment manufacturing and FSC; CAD in
garment design and manufacturing; IT and its impact; and VTO for garment design.
Second, based on a co-citation analysis, two theoretical clusters, including two sub-clusters –
304 the TPB and the TAM, and the DOI theory – are identified. Third, this study compares the
theoretical foundations of generic technology adoption and those specific to FSC as a future
research agenda, which, in turn, identifies the academic gaps in the literature on technology
adoption in the clothing industry.
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Corresponding author
Md Aynul Hoque can be contacted at: aynulsae@gmail.com
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