Professional Documents
Culture Documents
AND RETURN. CITIES, ARCHITECTURE AND RESTORATION. WRITINGS IN MEMORY OF PAOLO CUNEO
ISSN 1828-5961
Ludovico Micara
Architect, Full Professor of Ar-
chitectural and Urban Design
in the University “G. D’An-
nunzio”, Pescara (Italy), he is
deeply involved in researches,
publications, projects on cities
and landscapes of the Mediter-
ranean countries.
In 1982 he has been scientific
responsible of the Biennale of
Venice Exhibition Architettura
nei paesi islamici .
As scientific director, since
1996, of the Italian Mission for
the Study of the Architectural
and Urban Heritage of the Is-
lamic Libya , he coordinated
and published many research-
es on the Medina of Tripoli and
the town-oasis of Ghadames.
Ghadames, the ancient Cydamus, located in the al-Qadim, which is perhaps the oldest Islamic
pre-desert of the Libyan region of Fezzan, 350 m. monument of the city (fig. 2).
altitude, on the borders between Libya, Algeria The work of the “Italian Architectural Mission for
and Tunisia, is one of the most interesting Saha- the Islamic Period in Libya” [6] mainly addressed,
ran town-oasis of internal Libya [1] (fig. 1). It owes from 1989 to 1995 - the year of the sudden dis-
its ancient existence to the presence of the arte- appearance of its first director, Professor Paolo
sian source Ayn al-Faras (English translation from Cuneo [7] - the identification and definition of the
the Arabic: “mare’s source”) [2] which allowed the urban structure of Ghadames. Its historical gen-
formation of a very large oasis (about 75 hectares esis is characterized by the synoecism of two hu-
with 20-25,000 palm trees) [3]. man groups of Berber origin, the Banu Walid and
It was the trans-Saharan trade that mainly deter- the Banu Wazit.
mined Ghadames’ fortune over the centuries, and Such a synoecism has led over time to the tran-
it is the disappearance of such trade that explains sition from a habitat characterized by the pres-
its decline. The oasis of Ghadames constituted ence of numerous qsur [8] within the oasis, to the
indeed an important station in the ancient cara- formation of a dual structure of the urban center,
van route between Sudan and the Mediterranean which is frequent in the Islamic world, even in the
coast; important even in Roman times, if we know Mediterranean area.
that Cydamus was occupied in the IIIrd century by The urban center, organized in different districts
a vexillatio of the Legio III Augusta and that it was (fig. 3) - Maziq, Darar and Tisku, inhabited by the
held, with alternating events, under the dominion Banu Walid; Tangzin, Tafarfara and Jarasan, in-
of the empire until the disintegration of the Libyan habited by the Banu Wazit; Awlad Bellil, inhabit-
military garrisons of Emperor Justinian. The oasis ed by Arabic ethnic groups of the same name -,
was occupied in year 47 of the Hegira (667 AD) by is structured around the central nucleus. This is
the Arabs led by Sidi Uqba Ibn Nafi, the famous characterized by a square (majlis), enclosed be- Fig. 1 - Ghadames: satellite view of the oasis-town. (DigitalGLOBE, 2005).
general leader of the first Muslim conquest of the tween the two white large mosques, the ancient
Maghreb. Sidi Uqba is remembered, in the ceme- Jami al-Atiq of the Banu Walid and Jami Yunus of
tery in the South part of the city, by the homony- the Banu Wazit.
mous musalla (open place of prayer) which occu- On this central majlis, (fig. 4) (fig. 5) (fig. 6)
pies the site of the leader’s original memorial. equipped with simple masonry seats, the main
Important evidence of this most ancient historical covered paths converge; these organize the dis-
phase of Ghadames is, in its western suburb, the tricts of the city inhabited by the two different
so-called plain of the “idols”, el Asnam, in Arabic, ethnic groups. In the same square, located near
or temsammudin (places of prayer), in Berber, late the Ain al-Faras water basin, the main public
Roman funerary monuments now in ruins, probably functions were held, including the market, the en-
belonging to Berber princely dynasties, passed under trance to the mosques, and the control of the wa-
the Roman protectorate [4] in the 3rd century AD. ter supply directed towards the various canals, in
A comparison with the contemporary monumental order to feed, after the mosques, the houses and
tombs of Ghirza (4th century AD) allows to recon- the irrigation canals of the oasis.
struct the original form of these remains, and, at The latter function is very important for the sur-
the same time, to interpret the large amount of ar- vival of the oasis gardens due to the scarcity of the
chitectural pieces as spolia. These are scattered water resource; it was carried out in a niche on the
in the most significant points of majlis or public wall of the Yunus Mosque, where it was possible
spaces, as well as inside religious buildings and to control the flow of the main canal. A special ap-
hammam of Ghadames [5]. A tomb of this type, pointee (the assignment was transmitted from fa- Fig. 2 - Ghadames: view of the Yunus al-Qadim. What appears today as
also in the plain of the “idols”, was the supposed ther to son), who exchanged with two other people the minaret of the ancient mosque was probably one asnam of the plain of
minaret of a small mosque now in ruins, Yunus within 24 hours, filled the unit of measurement, “idols” (Picture by the author, 2003).
http://disegnarecon.univaq.it DOI: https://doi.org/10.20365/disegnarecon.25.2020.1
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ISSN 1828-5961 Ghadames. A Continuous Urban Fabric in the pre-Saharan Habitat of the Libyan Fezzan
Fig. 5 - Ghadames: axonometric view of the central area. (The Libyan-Italian Mission for the Study of the
Architectural Heritage of the Islamic Period. Drawing by the author)
Fig. 6 - Ghadames: plan and elevations of the central area, with the two main mosques. (The Libyan-Italian
Mission for the Study of the Architectural Heritage of the Islamic Period. Drawing by the author)
Fig. 7 - Ghadames: the complex of Al Tuta Square with Jami Tandrin (4), Tandrin Majlis (5), Al Hasan Jami (7),
Mulay Tayyb Zawiya (8), Mulay Tayyb Market (9), Al Tuta Square (10). (The Libyan-Italian Mission for the Study
of the Architectural Heritage of the Islamic Period. Drawing by the author)
http://disegnarecon.univaq.it DOI: https://doi.org/10.20365/disegnarecon.25.2020.1
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ISSN 1828-5961 Ghadames. A Continuous Urban Fabric in the pre-Saharan Habitat of the Libyan Fezzan
typology in Fezzan, defined by a few naves, two ers the interior and exterior of the sacred buildings. that, to complete Paolo Cuneo’s work on Ghad-
in the Jami al-Atiq and three in the Yunus Jami, However, alongside a research that led to the ames, it was necessary to elaborate on the issues
which are parallel to the wall of the qibla. Thus, study of the urban structure and architecture of just outlined. The study of such a fabric [10], which
the mosque mainly grew in a longitudinal direc- major buildings and collective spaces, a funda- has the advantage of ensuring perfect control of
tion, with respectively thirteen and nine spans, mental aspect, among others, still remains to environmental well-being in often extreme cli-
where the central one, wider than the others, be clarified, which concerns the shape of the ur- matic situations, required to develop a particular
prospects the qibla (fig. 10). ban fabric. This shape - perhaps the most strik- operational strategy.
The roofs are very simple: flat, in palm wood in the ing for the visitor, due to the big difference with Indeed, it was not so important to know the struc-
Jami al-Atiq, and low-vaulted, supported by arch- the western city - is the constant background, a ture of single houses as much as to study a group
es, in the Yunus, while the dome is only reserved compact fabric, with few and discreet variations, of contiguous houses, straddling the main road, in
for the space in front of the qibla. The shape of the inside which the recognizable individualities of order to understand that vertical interweaving of
pillars supporting the arches of the naves’ walls is the buildings for the collective institutions are in- residential and path spaces that allows the crea-
very interesting. The pillars generally incorporate serted. This background is also the most apparent tion of a system, so typical of Ghadames, of covered
stone columns and capitals, deriving, as spolia, in the urban experience of Ghadames and other streets, lit by light-wells from above (fig. 11, fig. 12).
from the ancient Asnam. town-oasis of Maghreb. Such a strategy required to physically access
The columns, coupled or joined to four, form solid Solids and voids, houses and streets, are part of these groups of houses, and to know their own-
and articulated piers. The very simplified capitals, a single continuous and homogeneous material, ers, not an easy task in a settlement largely aban-
with decorations based mostly on triangular pat- in which void spaces have been “excavated”, and doned today [11], in order to properly survey and
terns, define the elegant design of the node, thin- where light penetrates from above in a selective study those internal spaces.
ner than the support, between the pillar and the manner. The expression “entering the city” is not It was possible to overcome such difficulties only
heavy structure of the arches. metaphorical but concrete, as one enters in a se- thanks to the collaboration of the people of the
The shape of the arch is often defined, especially quence of covered interior spaces. The term con- chosen district, Jarasan, inhabited by the Banu
in the smaller mosques, by the form that its ribs, tinuum has never been so appropriate, as it per- Wazit, and the help of some officials of the Libyan
made out of palm branches, assume when bend- fectly depicts the physical and material continuity Department of Antiquities [12]. It was thus possi-
ed. The warm colors of the palm fiber mats, which of the traditional city. ble to find twenty-three not isolated houses, being
protect the soil and the base of the pillars, soften, in When, in 1996, I had the responsibility of the Mis- part of contiguous clusters, as a significant sample
the penumbra, the whiteness which uniformly cov- sion’s direction, it was immediately clear to me of the complex residential fabric of the city (fig. 13).
Fig. 8 - Ghadames: view of the Mulay Tayyib Market. (Picture by the author, 2004). Fig. 9 - Ghadames: view of Al Tuta Square or Mulberry Square. Fig. 10 - Ghadames, Yunus Mosque, view of the naves parallel to qibla.
From Richardson J. (1848). Vol. 1, p. 225. (Author’s interpretation). (Picture by the author, 2003).
http://disegnarecon.univaq.it DOI: https://doi.org/10.20365/disegnarecon.25.2020.1
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ISSN 1828-5961 Ghadames. A Continuous Urban Fabric in the pre-Saharan Habitat of the Libyan Fezzan
Fig. 14 - Ghadames
ground-floor plan and
section of the Jarasan
street. (The Libyan-Italian
Mission for the Study of
the Architectural Heritage
Fig. 12 - Ghadames view of a covered street lit by light-wells. (Picture by of the Islamic Period.
the author, 2004) Drawing by the author).
Fig. 15 - Ghadames,
axonometric view of a
group of two houses
covering the street.
The central higher room
is the tamanat. (The
Libyan-Italian Mission for
the Study of the Archi-
tectural Heritage of the
Islamic Period. Drawing
by the author). Fig. 16 - Ghadames, view of an old tamanat. (Picture by the author, 2013).
Fig. 19 - Ghadames, the skyline of the serafin in the corners of the buildings’ Fig. 20 - Ghadames, relief decorations in the tamanat’s wall. (Picture by the Fig. 21 - Ghadames’ skyline, with, in the foreground, the mosques Al-Atiq and
terraces. (Picture by the author, 2004). author, 2004). Yunus, and, in the background, the palm oasis. (Picture by the author, 2004).
these virtual windows, bright images will pene- Since the people of Ghadames are still the own-
trate into the perennial penumbra of the large ers of the houses, although they do not live any-
interior space, and metaphorically evoke the more in the medina, they should be the main ac-
richness and complexity of an imaginary nature tors of the restoration. They need to be supported
through the only possible form allowed by reli- by technicians in order to apply suitable building
gion and customs, that is, an abstract form [17]. methods and materials to adequately restore
their properties, and safeguard the cultural value
CONCLUSIONS of their houses, beyond the economic one [18].
NOTE Department, Chieti-Pescara (Italy). of twenty years ago are today re- REFERENCES Leone Africano (1896-98). Descrip-
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of a body of studies and interests, ed within two or three miserable rasan quarter, where the surveys of Richardson, J. (1848). Travels in
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Arab-Islamic city, which character- and a few glimpses of the Desert thank, as well, Melanie Mauch and des Berbères (transl. De Slane) I, years of 1845 and 1846. London:
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oasis-city of Ghadames and the ference, Catania, Facoltà Scienze suo territorio e le sue acque. In
Medina of Tripoli as its main re- [15] “The oasis today is much Politiche, December 1–2, 2000. Rassegna economica delle colonie,
search fields, has been directed by smaller than in the past, because Aggiornamenti e approfondimenti 1-2. Roma: Ministero delle Colonie.
Ludovico Micara, Professor at the just 75-80 hectares of land are (pp. 55–70). Milano.
“G. D’Annunzio” University, IDEA irrigated while the 22.000 palms