MODULE Basic Clothing

BASIC CLOTHING
1|Bas ic Clothing – Adoracion T. Gante

MODULE
BASIC CLOTHING
i. Clothing
ii. Fibers
iii. Fabric Construction
iv. Tools for Clothing Construction
v. Basic Stitches / Seams
vi. Taking Body Measurement
vii. Parts of Sewing Machine
viii. Pattern Making
This module is about ….
The Clothing Module aims to enable us to make thoughtful choices when

selecting clothing, to use appropriate behavior in the marketplace when
making purchases, and to take responsibility for some care and repair of
clothing. It also aims to develop awareness of some skills and procedures
related to construction of garments and fabric articles. Practicing basic sewing
techniques provides students with skills needed to complete simple repairs,
and makes them more aware of construction features in garments. In some
students ,this exposure may awaken a desire to develop and expand sewing
skills to satisfy creative needs. It may also lead them into any one of several
textile-related career areas.
The module begins with a focus on clothing choices, and the power
clothing has to relay messages to others. It continues with a consideration of
consumer responsibilities, including activities which help make students more
informed consumers. While time limitations do not permit students to become
familiar with fabric characteristics, the section on clothing care allows them to
develop skills in interpreting labels and carrying out cleaning procedures. Basic
sewing skills are introduced, and, through the construction of a simple project,
students begin to develop an awareness of the complexities of garment
construction and the skills required to produce clothing.

Module
MODULE OUTLINE
Lesson I – Clothing
a. Early Development of Sewing of Fabric
b. Purpose of Clothing
Lesson II- Fibers

a. Plant Fibers
b. Animal Fibers
c. Man-made Fibers
Lesson III- Fabric Construction

a. Weaving
b. Knitting
Lesson IV- Tools for Clothing Construction

a. Measuring tool
b. Drafting tool
c. Marking tool
d. Cutting tool
e. Stitching tool
f. Pressing tool
Lesson V-Basic Stitches / Seams

a. Temporary Stitches
b. Permanent Stitches
c. Decorative Stitches
Lesson VI- Taking Body Measurement
Lesson VII- Parts of Sewing Machine and its Function
Lesson VIII- Pattern Making

Major Objective
1. To understand why and how clothing choices
are made.
2. To understand fabrics can be made or constructed by using a number of
techniques
3. To see that the clothes that you wear have different woven designs.
4. To develop skills in hand stitching and machine sewing.
5. To develop skills in pattern construction and sewing.
Learning Objectives :
1.1 To identify the reasons why people wear

clothing.
1.2 To determine how clothing choices are
made.
1.3 To recognize that clothing is a major part of
the image one projects to others.
2. To become aware of personal responsibilities

as clothing consumers.
2.1 To identify and describe briefly some of the

factors affecting suitable clothing purchases.
2.2 To outline consumer responsibilities with
respect to purchasing clothing.
3. To apply information and skills useful in the

care and repair of clothing.
3.1 To identify and explain the clothing care
symbols.
3.2 To describe the procedures used for cleaning
clothes.

Lesson I
INTRODUCTION TO CLOTHING
The record’s of man’s use of Textiles, dates back thousands of years before the
birth of Christ. Our knowledge of the early development in textiles is very
meagre as they are not evident through proper records. Textiles were first developed
as a means for carrying food and as mats in shelter. Only in later stages it is
used as clothing.
INTRODUCTION:
When early people realized they needed more than their own hair and skin to
protect them from the weather, they looked around to see what was available.
People lived in a cold climate, saw animals with skins that kept them warm. They
hunted these animals for food and used the fur to cover their body.
EARLY DEVELOPMENT OF S EWING AND FABRIC:
Once they started to hunt they used the skin of animals as clothes. This
skin when continuously used becomes harder and made difficult for them to hunt.. For this
purpose he started to treat the skin to preserve its softness. Later the bones of animals
were used as needle and nerves were used as thread to stitch the hides.
Ancient people used Grasses, reeds, leaves and stems to cover their body. He
also learned to spin the fibre, convert it into yarn and these yarns are interlaced to
form a cloth. Flax and wool were the first of the fibre to be used because they
were easier to twist into yarn than cotton. They also used the hair of animals
as bed, in due course, these hair tangled with each other and formed as a fabric.
This method is only followed while making felt cloth. After thousands of years of

wandering, people learned that they could live in one place with other humans and
grow what they needed. This is known as an agrarian society. People learned how to raise
certain animals for the meat and the skins. They learned togrow certain plants
for food. People no longer had to spend all their time hunting and farming.
People learned how to spin bits of plants, reeds, horse hair, and bark into one
continuous strand, or yarn. Then they discovered how to take these long pieces
of yarn and weave them into fabric, just like they wove the grasses. People began to
look around for other fibres they could use to make yarn. The cotton, wool, silk, and
flax that they found are still the most common natural fibres today. Other fibres,
such as alpaca from llamas and angora from rabbits, were discovered,
but, even today, these fibers are too scarce and expensive to be widely used .For
thousands of years the four natural fibers used by men are flax, wool, silk and
cotton. Man made fibers were introduced only at the beginning of the 20th
Century. From ancient times to the middle of the 18thcentury. Spinning and weaving
were-done by hand. Progress in this area culminated in the industrial revolution,
which was the start of the factory system and mars production. From Ancient times
colours have been used in fabrics. Dyestuff from plants and insects were used until the
synthetic dyes were discovered
PURPOSE OF CLOTHING:
Clothing is used to cover the body, to make you feel more attractive, and to
communicate with others. People wear clothes for many different reasons. Some of
these reasons are physical. You wear clothes for comfort and protection. Others
are for psychological and social reasons. Clothes give you self-confidence and
express your personality. Clothes also help you identify with other people. All people
have basic human needs. Meeting these needs provides satisfaction and enjoyment in
life. Clothing helps to meet some of these needs. Knowing something about the role of
clothing helps you to understand yourself and others better. Clothing is a complex but
fascinating part of everyone’s life. Therefore clothes are worn for:
1. Protection:
Our skin is uncovered and exposed. We can be easily affected by the
elements-rain, snow, wind, cold, and heat. We can be harmed or injured on the
job or while participating in sports. In some cases, we need to protect us with
our clothing. Clothing aids to your comfort. It absorbs perspiration, prevents sudden
chills, and acts as a buffer between your body and accidental b u r n s , s c r a t c h e s ,
a n d r o u g h s u r f a c e s . T h e r i g h t garments can insulate your body against
extremely hot or extremely cold temperatures. People who live in severely cold
climates, such as the Eskimos, keep warm by wearing pants and park as with
fur linings. The fur traps the warm air from their bodies and creates a life-saving
insulating layer of warmth. Desert nomads keep the harmful hot sun from
dehydrating their bodies by covering up with long flowing robes and
headdresses. Their clothing actually keeps them cooler.

2. Safety:
Clothing also serves to protect your skin from harm or injury. Some
sports and occupations require protective clothing for safety reasons. Football
players wear helmets and protective padding to help prevent injury during
rough play. Some people’s work requires them to be in dangerous or hazardous
conditions. Clothing can offer protection. Some items are even labelled with the term
“safety” to identify them from regular day-to-day clothes and accessories .Fire-fighters
wear asbestos clothing in hazardous situations. Police officers wear bulletproof
vests. Road workers wear florescent orange vests so that drivers can see theme easily
and prevent accidents.
3. Sanitation:
Special clothing and accessories are often worn for sanitation reasons. People who
work in factories that produce food and medical products wear
sanitary clothing, face masks, and hair covering. This precaution prevents
contamination of the products by germs. In operating rooms, doctors and
nurses wear special disposable sanitary uniforms, gloves, and face masks.

4. Modesty:
Modesty refers to what people feel is the proper way for clothing to cover
the body.
Different groups of people may have different standards of modesty. For example
:Clothes that a woman might wear toa fancy party would probably be unacceptable at
work the next.
5. Identification:
Clothing can also identify people as members of a group. Certain types of
clothing, colors, and accessories have become representative of certain groups, activities,
and occupations. Or by simply dressing alike, people can show that they belong to the
same group. Ex .Air Crews, Airhostess, Doctors, Pilots, etc.
6. Uniforms:
A uniform is one of the easiest ways to identify group members. Uniforms can
provide instant recognition or create a special image for the group. Members of the
police force, fire department, and military wear uniforms so that they can be recognized
quickly and easily for public safety. Athletic teams wear different colors to identify
their team and to tell them apart from their opponents. People who work in service
occupations, such as restaurant workers, airline personnel, and hotel staff also wear
special uniform. These uniforms help to identify the worker to their customers, as
well as create an image for the company.
7. Styles and Colors:

Some occupations require a unique style of dress. Judges wear the traditional
blackrobe. Ministers, priests, and other clergy members may wear special clothing
for conducting religious services. The style of the clothing often dates back many centuries to
show visuallyt hat what they are doing is linked to the past. Many people wear special
styles and colors of clothing for special occasions in their lives. Graduates may
wear ling robes and mortar board hats with tassels.

8. Insignias:
Insignias are badges or emblems that show membership in a group.
Patches or emblems can be worn on jackets or blazer pockets. A school letter with a
sports pin can be worn on a jacket or sweater to indicate participation in
athletics.
9. Status:
Kings and queens wear crowns to set them apart from the rest of their subjects.
Their crowns indicate their status, or position or rank within a group. Clothes
and other accessories are used by people to show their level of importance. They
may also be used to give the wearer a sense of feeling important. Status symbols are
clothes or other items that offer a sense of status for the ordinary person. Usually
these items are more expensive or the latest in design. For some people,
status symbols can be fur co ats, expensive jewelry, or designer clothes.
10. Decoration:
P e o p l e d e c o r a t e t h e m s e l v e s t o e n h a n c e t h e i r appearance. They
wear clothes, jewelry, and cosmetics in hopes of improving their looks and
attracting favourable attention. Adornment, or decoration, also helps people to
express their uniqueness and creativity. Clothing and accessories can be used to
improve appearance in different ways. Clothing can also be decorated to make
it special and unique.

WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNT:
Questions:
Objective questions:
1.Clothes are mainly use
a. cover the body c. comfort and protection
b. attractive d. identify
2.Eskimos use
a. helmets c. robes
b. bullets proofs` d. fur
3.Insignias means
a. decoration c. uniform
b. badges d. fur
4.Football players wear
a. asbestos clothing c. protective padding
b. fur d. robes
5.Uniforms are worn by
a. athletic teams
b. kings
c. queens
d. Eskimos
Answer the following:

1.Define “Clothing”.
2.Give the clothing of Eskimos.
3.How does nomades dress?
4.Define “Safety in clothing”.
5.Define “Insignias”.
6.Give a note on the dresses of ancient people.
7.What are the fibres used by ancient people?
8.How do early people dyed t heir fabrics.
Answer in a paragraph:
1.How will you justify the use of clothing as protection?
2.Give short notes on styles and colors in clothing?
3.Why clothes are decorated?
4.How clothes help in identification?
5.Give short notes on modesty in clothing?
10 | B a s i c C l o t h i n g – Adoracion T. Gante
Lesson II
F I BE R S
IINTRODUCTION :
By now, you may know about the benefits of eating organic food and
supporting organic agriculture. But did you know that many of the crops that
produce the fibers used to make our clothing and home wares—often those we
sleep in every night—account for some of the highest pesticide usage? In fact, it
takes roughly one-third of a pound of chemicals (pesticides and fertilizers) to
grow enough cotton for just one T-shirt, which is why it is important to
consider organic cotton and other fibers.
FIBERS:
Fibers are the fundamental units used in fabrication of textile yarns
and fabrics. It is an individual, fine, hair like substance. Fibers usually are grouped
and Twisted together into a continuous stand called yarns. Fibers may be from
natural sources or they may be man-made.
NATURAL FIBERS
INTRODUCTION:
The source of Natural fibers are from plants, animals and mineral.
Since these areavailable naturally, it is called as natural fibers.

1. PLANT FIBERS:
Plant fibers are composed of cellulose and therefore are classified as natural
cellulosicfibers. The important raw material to produce fabrics are fibers especially
cotton and silk.First let us see the preparation of cotton fibers.
a. Cotton:
The word cotton is derived from the Arabic word qoton or qutun, which means a
plantfound in conquered land. Cotton is fiber that grows from the surrounding surface
of seedsin the pods, or balls of a bushy mallow plant. It is composed basically of
a substance calledcellulose.
Principal Origin:Natural Chemical Type:Cellulosic
Generic Name:Seed hairCommon Name:Cotton
History:
Cotton is still the fiber used mostly in the world.People around the
world mostly usecotton as the main fiber. They prefer garment made from cotton than any
other fibers. Moreover cotton is one of the best fiber suitable for our climate. The main
raw material used forcotton fabric is cotton pod.Ancient records shows that garments
made out of cotton wereused by Indians also.Greek Philosophers refers that Indians
were best in growing, spinning and weavingpure cotton fabric between 3000 BC-
1500AD. Marco Polo on his voyage to our countrystates that the world’s finest
cotton fabrics were made from India. Cotton fabrics fromIndia, are fine and of
outstanding quality. Archaeological findings a Mohenja-Daro suggestthat the cotton
plant was already domesticated and being used for making textiles over5000
years ago.
.
b. Flax(Linen):
The word flax is derived from Old English “flax”. Linen is the termapplied to
the yarn spun from flax fibres and to the cloth or fabric wovenfrom this yarn, flax
fibers are held together under the stem’s bark principallyby a gummy substance (pectin)
from the body of flax plant. It is composedbasically of substance cellulose. It is a natural,
cellulosic, bast, multicellularfiber.
Principal Origin:NaturalChemical Type:CellulosicGeneric

Name: Bast fiberCommon Name:Flax.
History:
Linen has been known in civilised societies for thousandsof years. Flax was
already being cultivated systematically byancient Egyptians, Babylonians and
other civilisation. The richpeople of Greece used only linen material. The priests
usedlinen material for their dress while performing holy and customdeeds.Linen was
specially popular in middle ages. A commonfabric of that period was a
combination of linen and wool, called“ linsey-woolsey”. In India from the time of
Buddha Linen material wasconsidered to be expensive. Before 2500 BC, the
carving inthe graveyard, show the preparation of Linen fibre from the flax.
Cotton Emblem Plant&Flax Plant
2. A N I M A L F I B E R S :
Natural protein fibers are obtained from animal sources like hair and other
secretion,fibers include covering from such animals as sheep, mohair goat,
cashmere goat andcamel. Secretions are obtained from the larva, or worm
stage, of the silkworm, whichspins the cocoon from which silk fibers are obtained
and from the spider which spins finefibers in making its web. There are some
properties of hair fibers and secretions whichare quite similar and on the other
hand there are properties which are totally different.
a. Silk:
In old English, silk was sioloc. The name is thought to have originated from the
Greek“Seres”, meaning the people from Eastern Asia, namely the Chinese.Silk is very
fine strand of fiber that is a solidified protein secretion produced by certaincaterpillars
to encase themselves in the form of cocoon.
History:
The possibility of making cloth from the filament that the silkworm spins into a cocoonwas
first discovered in China about 2600 B.C. Legends tells us that a cocoon
accidently16dropped into a cup of tea that a Chinese Princess was having in her
garden. The hot liquidsoftened and loosened the fiber, which the princess pulled and drew
away from the cocoonas a continuous strand. Another story cites Empress Si-ling-chi as
the first producer of silkfiber, from which she made a silk robe for her husband. From
antiquity until the more recentestablishment of the Chinese Republic, she was venerated as the
Goddess of the Silkworm.The Chinese who first cultivated the silkworm and
developed a silk industryendeavoured to keep the source of the raw material
secret. Their silk fabrics were highlypriced. Caravans carried silk into the
Near East where they were traded for hundreds ofyears. About three thousand
years after its original discovery the secret was stolen out ofChina.
b. Wo o l :
The word wool was wull in old English. Wool is the fiber from the fleece of
domesticatedsheep.
Principal Origin:Natural Chemical type:ProteinaceousGeneric
name:Animal hairCommon name:Wool
History:
When wild sheep were killed by primitive people for food they used the pelts as
bodycoverings. It is believed that ancient shepherd in the first century A.D.
discovered thatMerino sheep could be bred to improve the fleece. Soft wool is
developed by breedingdifferent species of animals. It provides warmth and
physical comfort. These qualitycombined with soft resiliency make wool desirable for
apparel as well as for such householduses as rugs and blankets. The quality of wool fiber is
determined by the breeding, climate,food, general care and health of sheep. Cold
weather produces a hardier and heavierfiber. Excessive moisture dries out natural
grease. Insufficient or poor food retards growth.
3. MAN-MADE FIBERS:
INTRODUCTION:
A scientist named Hooke in seventeenth century suggested that if proper liquid

weresquirted through a small aperture and allowed to congeal a fiber can be produced.
a. R A Y O N :
Rayon was the first fiber to be produced commercially. By the passage of

timeincreasing number of new fibers came into existence. A generic name is the
name of afamily of fibers all having similar chemical composition. All man-
made fiber spinningprocesses are based on three general steps.1.Preparing
a viscous solution or syrup dope.2.Extruding this solution through spinneret to
form a fiber.3. Solidifying the fiber by coagulation, evaporation or cooling.
b. ACETATE AND TRIACETATE:

Acetate, which is properly called cellulose acetate (chemically di-acetate or secondaryacetate)
was first made by Paul Schutzenberger in 1869. The first use of this substance
was as a coating on cotton fabric or as a film similar to cellophane or plastic
wrap. As acoating the substance was applied to fabric used in early aeroplanes.
Triacetate fiberswere developed along with regular acetate. However, manufacture of
triacetate into fiberform was delayed until safe solvents became available in
sufficient quantity to makeproduction economically profitable. Both Acetate and
triacetate continue to be respectedfibers for selected types of fabrics however their
use has continued to decline over theyears.
c. N Y L O N :
Nylon was the first synthetic fiber. In 1928 the Dupontcompany decided to establish a
fundamental research program. If anything was discovered it would be good for
thecompany - a means of diversification. It was noticed that when a glass rod
was taken out of one of the polyester stills the solution adhering to it stretched
out into a solid filament.The filament could be stretched ever further and it
did not go back to its original length.This stimulated the group to concentrate on
textile fibers. The term nylon was chosen forthe fiber and it was called the miracle
fiber for several years. The first nylon was referredto as type 6,6. The numbers
derive from the fact that each of the two chemicals used inmaking this type of
nylon has six carbon atoms. Nylon type 6, 10 was developed at thesame time
and it is composed of one chemical with six carbon atoms per molecule andten
carbon atoms per molecule for the second chemical. Nylon 6, 6 was
considereddesirable for apparel and selected home furnishings; nylon 6, 10
was used in makingbrushes, and similar items. In many countries nylon is identified
by term “Polyamide”.
4. P O L Y E S T E R :
Polyester is sometimes referred to as the “workhorse” fiber of the industry. The filamentform of
the fiber has been said to be the most versatile fiber and the staple form has
beencalled the “big mixer” because it can be blended with so many other fibers,
contributing itsgood properties to the blend without destroying the desirable properties
of the other fiber.Its versatility in blending is one of the unique advantage of
polyester. The polyester haveprobably undergone more research and development work
than any other fiber. One of theimportant physical changes has been that of changing
from the standard round shape to trifocal cross-section that gives the fiber silk-
like properties. A chemical modification,high tenacity staple, was developed for
use in durable press fabrics. The strength of thepolyester reinforces the cotton
fibers, which are weakened by the finishing process.
Answer the following :
1.Name any two synthetic fibers.

2.What are the reagents that react to form polyester?
3.Name the process by which nylon is manufactured.
4.How Acetate is properly called?
5.Name the three different methods by which spinning is done.
6.How will you manufacture acetate?
7.Explain man -made fibers.
8.Give the properties of polyester.
9.Discuss on man -made fibers.
10.Explain about wool.
11.Define and classify fibers.
12.Explain in detail on purpose of clothing.
13.Explain the invention of silk fiber.
14.Explain the properties of cotton.
15.Write about the properties of silk.
Lesson III
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION
When you see the clothes you wear or fabric you use for curtains or bed
sheet,have you noticed something different in them? Some fabrics are thick,
others are thin, some are plain, others have self-design and some are stiff and
others limp. If you examine your clothes, you will find that your inner clothes
or underwear are very different from outer clothes. These differences in fabrics
are because of their construction. You have already learnt in the previous
lessons that the fibers and yarns affect the properties, appearance, and
wearability of the fabric. Similarly, fabric construction methods also influence
the appearance, properties and performance of the fabric. In this lesson you
will learn about this aspect of fabrics.
Objectives :
After reading this lesson you will be able to:

_ describe briefly the methods of fabric construction;
_ explain the process of weaving and knitting;
_ describe types of basic weaves;
_ distinguish between woven and knitted fabrics.
What is a fabric ?
In the earlier lesson you have learnt about fibres and yarns but still
when you areasked about the meaning of textiles you think of fabrics, clothes
or garments. Actually, in order to use the fibers and yarns for apparel and
household textiles and other end uses, there is a need to convert them into a
fabric.
Fabric is any piece of cloth
What do you see when you go to the market? The shops are full of
different typesof fabrics. Let us now see how a fabric is made or constructed.
How is fabric constructed?
Fabrics can be made or constructed by using a number of techniques as
givenbelow:
a. Weaving
b. Knitting
c. Non-woven
d. Braided
e. Nets
f. Laces
a. Weaving :
Weaving is the most commonly used method of fabric construction. You
must have seen a chatai being made. Weaving is similar to it, where two sets of
yarns are interlaced with one another at right angles. Weaving gives a firm
fabric. Have you heard of fabrics like poplin,
denim and cambric? Yes, these are available in all the cloth shops and you
must have used them to make your garments.
b. Knitting :
When you knit a sweater, there is normally one ball of yarn which is inter
looped to get
a fabric. This technique is called knitting and it gives a lot of stretchand easy-
care properties to fabric. Knits are mainly used for hosiery. Knit fabrics are
specially useful for garments like underwear, T-shirts, socks etc.
c. Non-Woven:
These fabrics aremade directly from fibers withoutweaving or knitting.
Fibers are held together by mechanical forces, gum or heat.Namada is a
traditional Kashmiri piece of a non-woven type of fabric.
d. Braided Fabrics:
Braided fabrics are created in a fashion similar to braidingof hair. These
fabrics are mainly used to make trimmings and shoe laces.
e. Nets:
They are open-mesh fabrics with geometrical shapes. These yarnsmay be
knotted at the point of intersection. You notice it being used verycommonly for
mosquito nets.
f. Laces:
Yarns are criss-crossed to create intricate designs. Yarns may be
interloped, interlaced or knotted to give open-mesh structure.
Beautifuldecorative designs can be created through lace making. Laces are
veryimportant trimmings that are used to decorate a garment.
WHAT IS WEAVING ?
Weaving two sets of yarns are interlaced at right angle to one another in
an established sequence.Have you ever seen a ‘charpai’ being made? On the
frame, first one rope is taken and interlooped on two parallel edges and after
that a second rope is interlaced perpendicular to it going once over the rope
and once under it. This kind of an interlacement gives an even check effect and
the weave is quite firm. The weaving of a fabric is also done in a similar way,
except for the fact that yarns are used for interlacing and a loom is used to
hold the thread instead of aframe.
Selvedge: When you examine a fabric, you see two long finished edges, one on
each side along the length of the fabric. These edges are called selvedge and
give strength to the edges which is important in further processing of the
fabric.
Warp: They are the yarns along the length of the fabrics or parallel to the
selvedge.They are also called ends.
Weft: When you see a woven fabric, besides warps, another set of yarns move
perpendicular to warps. They are called wefts. They are interlaced with warps
in a crosswise direction to make a fabric. They are also called picks or fillings.
Thread Count: You must have noticed that some woven fabrics look dense and
compact whereas others open. This difference is due to the thread count which
refers to the total number of warps and wefts per square inch of a woven fabric.
Thread count tells us about the fabric quality and durability. Fabric with a
higher thread count is better than fabric with lower thread count. Also, for
good quality fabric, warps and wefts should be more or less equal in number.
Process of Weaving
The weaving operation can be compared to ‘chatai’ making. When a

chatai is made, some ropes are held parallel to one another on a frame. The
chatai maker lifts some strands with his fingers and passes another rope
perpendicular to it and pushes it down with a blunt knife to make a compact
chatai.
Fabric Construction
In weaving also, a similar process is carried out on a loom. Warp yarns

are laid parallel and very close to each other. Then, with hands or some other
device some warps are lifted and others remain as such and the weft on a
shuttle is then passed through them to complete the interlacement. For
example alternate warps could be lifted to get a plain weave fabric. To make the
weave compact, the wefts are beaten with a comb like device called reed. In
handloom these activities are done manually. But now-a-days power looms are
being used to do weaving at a fast rate.
Types of Weaves
You must have seen that the clothes that you wear have different woven
designs.
Designs can be due to –
_ use of different types of yarns like simple, ply, complex and textured.
_ use of different ways of interlacement of warp and weft yarns.
1. Plain Weave: - It is the simplest weave and therefore

inexpensive to produce. Many fabrics that you commonly wear
like mulmuldupattas, organdie and chiffon sarees are all plain
weave. Each and every weft yarn goes alternately under and over
the warp yarns across the width of the fabric. If the yarns are
close together, the plain weave has a high thread count and the
fabric will be firm and will wear well.
2. Rib Weave Basket Weave :Rib or line effect Two or more weft
yarns are interlaced is created by using as a unit with
corresponding number thin yarns with thick of warp yarns to
give a basket like yarns or single effect. Mattee fabric commonly
used yarns with doubled yarns in for cross stitch embroidery is
an example any one direction of the fabric. of such a weave.
KNITTING
Knitting is making of cloth with the help of needles to create a series of
interlocking loops with a single yarn. You already know that there is only one
ball of knitting yarn and with the help of two needles, loops are made and when
one row of loops are made, the next row is formed by interlooping with the
previous loops. This fabric making method gives us a very comfortable and
stretchable fabric which does not wrinkle. Due to its elasticity, it can fit various
sizes. Knitted fabrics are used not only for sweaters but also for hosiery articles
like vests, socks, underwear’s, etc. It is specially suited for winter wear. Knitted
wool keeps as warm since it has many air spaces which trap the body heat and
provide warmth.
In a knitted garment you will see the following:
Courses: These are the series of successive loops lying in crosswise direction.
Wales: These are the lengthwise or vertical columns of loops. You must have
seen that the size of the knitting needles is chosen keeping the thickness of the
wool in mind. Garment edges like borders are usually done with fine needles so
that the borders retain their shape.
WEAVING vs. KNITTING
As you have seen both weaving and knitting are the popular methods of
fabricmaking and depending upon the end use and properties needed either of
them canbe chosen. The following table gives a comparative picture of the two.
Property Weaving Knitting

1. Number of yarns Two sets of yarns interlaced One set of yarn interlooped
withat right angles. itself.
2. Equipment A loom-could be a handloom Needles - could be hand
required or automatic loom. knitting or machine knitting.
3. Fabrics are Firm, smooth, stable and Wrinkle resistant, stretchable,
maintain their stiffness. limp and fit the body.
4. Care and Need proper washing and No ironing required but while
maintenance ironing before re-use. drying have to be dried flat
on ground.
5. Designs Can be created by using Are created by using various
different yarns (types knitting yarns and byand colours) and also weaves.
changing stitches or colour
6. Used for Apparels, upholstery, curtains, For undergarments, hosiery,
draperies, table linen, bed sweaters, T-shirts socks,
linen, etc. stockings, etc.
Fabric making
Weaving /Knitting
1. Why are knitted garments considered appropriate for winter wear?

2. Why is satin weave not as strong as plain or twill weave?
3. Why is twill weave used for your jeans?
Activity :
Collect samples of different type of woven fabrics. Stick them in your
Record Book. Observe these samples carefully, identify their weaves and note
down in your record book.
No. Sample Weave

1
2
Intext Questions:
1. Give one word for the following sets of words :

a. Interlacing of two sets of yarns at right angle ___________.
b. Only one set of yarns is interloped to get a fabric ___________.
c. Total number of yarn per square inch of fabric ___________.
d. Weave that has long floats on the surface which give it a shine
_________.
Lesson IV
TOOLS FOR CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION
INTRODUCTION:
Well selected sewing equipments are essential for making a garment of

goodappearance. These are usually available at each and every home, as these tools are
helpfulfor women in Garment making. Tools for clothing construction can be classified
as:
1 . Measuring tool2. Drafting tool3. Marking tool4. Cutting tool5. Stitching to
ol6. Pressing tool
1. MEASURING TOOL:
Measuring tools are needed for taking body measurements and transferring
it into paper patterns.
a. Measuring Tape:
Measuring Tape is one of the important tool for sewing. This is commercially availablein
different models. With the use of this one can take their own body
measurement or measure from a garment for stitching a new garment and to check
the measurement of thegarment to be sewing in between stitching. Wrinkles
must be removed when measuringfrom a stitched garment. Note that the tape
must not get twisted while measuring. Themodel or person to be measured must
not bend while taking measurement. Select a firm,good quality tape which will not
stretch after use. It is usually about ½” wide and 60” long.Some of the measuring
tapes have centimeter markings along one edge. Properlymeasured garment
usually fits better.
b. Meter scale:
Meter scale are made of wooden, plastic or metal. They are useful for
checkingfabric width when fixing pattern pieces on material and for drawing
long seam lines onfabric or paper.
c. Ruler:
A ruler is useful for measuring small distances as tucks, hems, facing, etc. on patterns,for
drawings lines and marking dot.
2. D R A F T I N G T O O L :
These tools are helpful to fix the pattern, draw, draft and cut the pattern as
well as fabric. The following tools will be of use.
a. Wooden Table:
This should be of convenient height and size for drafting and cutting fabric. 3 feet width and 5 feet
length is a desirable size of the table and the height can be about 2.5 feet.
b. Brown Sheet:
It is better to draft paper pattern on a Brown sheet with correct body
measurement than drafting and cutting directly on the fabric. The pattern is pinned over the
fabric, marked and then stitched after cutting, which will prevent wastage of
fabric. Hence for drafting such pattern brown sheet is necessary.
c. Dress Model:
The measurement of the Model Dress must be same as the measurement of the
wearer for whom the dress should be made. Instead of taking measurement from the model or
person, the dress which suits well and fits correctly can be used as a aid
for measurements.
d. Bell pin:
Use of pins for basting and fixing of pattern pieces to the fabric makes work
easier, quicker and more accurate. Select sharp thin medium lengthy pins that will
not leave pin marks, on all types of fabrics. For silk, satin and other flimsy, slippery fabrics
patterns must be pinned to the fabric before cutting.
e. Pin cushions:
These are available in many different styles; some have an elastic or plastic band so they can be
worn around one’s wrist. Always use a pin cushion to hold the pins while work. This
will prevent the frustration of spilling a whole box of pins on the table or floor,
and the possibility of swallowing a pin.
3. M A R K I N G T O O L :
Marking tools helps to mark the details of patterns such as seam lines,
cut lines, darts, pleats etc. Marking tools area: Color Pencil (Red & Blue) ,
Marking chalk, Tracing Wheel.
a. Color Pencil (Red & Blue):
While drafting pattern on a newspaper, Red & Blue Pencil is necessary. The stitching line is
marked using blue pencil and cutting line is marked using Red Pencil.
b. Marking chalk:
This is also called as Tailor’s Chalk. As color pencil, this is also used for
marking seam lines and other pattern details on fabrics as an aid in stitching.
This is available in assorted colors in rectangular and triangular shapes. This
can be selected according to the fabric color . The edges can be sharpened for
drawing straight and curved lines easily.
c. Tracing Wheel:
This is a sharp toothed wheel used with dress maker’s carbon to transfer
pattern markings from pattern to cloth. Select a wheel with firm sharp points. Test it
to make sure that it does not bend. While cutting garment of similar pattern, place one
over the other and mark all the patterns at a time using tracing wheel. This can be
used when bulk orders are taken.
4. C U T T I N G T O O L S :
These tools are helpful to cut out the pattern from paper, to cut the fabrics and
thread .The cutting tool which are commonly used : Scissors, Shears,
Pinking shears, Seam Ripper, Thread Clipper, Embroidery scissors.
a. Scissors:
These have round handles and the blades are usually 6” or less than 6 inches. They
are designed mainly for snipping threads and trimming seams. However, scissors with
5inch blade can be used by beginners for cutting fabric as well.
b. Shears:
For cutting fabric, shears are more satisfactory than scissors. Shears differ
from scissors, in which shears have one small ring handle for the thumb and a large
ring handlef or the second, third and fourth fingers. They also have longer blades (8”
to 12”). It is better to select bent handled shears made of high quality steel and
having blades joined with a bolt or screw rather than a rivet. Take good care of
your shears and use them only for cutting fabric. Do not drop them or leave
them out to rust or cut any other item.
5. Pinking Shears:
Select a light weight pinking shear. These are useful for finishing the edges of seams and other
raw edges of fabric. They produce a notched (zigzag) cutting line which prevents ravelling of
woven fabrics. Pinking gives a neat appearance to the inside of garments.
a. Seam Ripper:
This is pen shaped gadget with a small blade atone end for removing stitches.
Use the blade to lift the thread away from the fabric before cutting. Be careful
not to cut the fabric.
b. Thread Clipper:
This has spring-action blades to clip thread ends or stitching.
c. Embroidery scissors:
These are small scissors, only 3” to 4” (7.5-10 cm) long, with very pointed
blades .Use embroidery scissors for detail work such as cutting buttonholes and
ripping stitches.
6. S T I T C H I N G T O O L S :
Stitching tools are those which are used for hand sewing and machine Sewing. The
most commonly used sewing tools are: Fabric, Needles, Thread, Thimble,
Needle threader, Bodkin, Loop turner.
a. Fabric:
While choosing Fabric, select a good quality fabric, which will be easy to stitch.
Knowledge of various types of fabric, their cost & width of fabric, is necessary
for good sewing.
b. Needles:
The best quality needles are always essential for good sewing. Points must be sharp, smooth
and well polished for quick sewing. Select needle according to type of stitches.
Usually there are 3 types of needle. They are:1.Long needles used for darning.
Size no.6 or no.7.2. Ordinary needle used for stitching normal stitches
and for tacking. Size no.8 or no.9.3.Embroidery Needle with a long and
oval hole. The points may be sharp or blunt depending upon the stitch. Store the
needles carefully in a rust proof paper to prevent from rust .
c. Thread:
For sewing, select thread from spool or reel of good quality from a reliable brand,
matching to fabric in color and size. Various types of threads like cotton, silk, Terylene
and nylon threads are available in the market.
d. Thimble:
This is worn on the middle finger to protect the finger from pricking and to aid
in doing hand sewing quickly. These are made out of plastic and metal. Select a non-
rust, light weight thimble.
e. Needle threader:
This is a small device with a thin metal wire that helps you thread a needle
f. Bodkin:
This gadget resembles a large, blunt needle and is used to pull cord, elastic, tape,
or ribbon through castings.
g. Loop turner:
This tool is a long metal rod with a hook atone end used to turn bias tubing right side
out.
7. PRESSING TOOLS:
Pressing is essential for neat sewing and also for enhancing the appearance of
finished garment. Some of the pressing tools
are: Iron box , Ironing board , Press cloth ,Sleeve board, Seam roll.
a. Iron box:
Iron box made of steel with Teflon coating along with adjustable regulators are usually best.
Fabric should be free from creases while cutting. Pressing helps to remove creases ,if
present. Keep an automatic handy iron box for pressing fabric before cutting,
during construction and after the garment is completed.
b. Ironing board:
This should be of convenient height and should be well padded. One may use
an ordinary table covered with sheet and blanket for this purpose.
Ironing board are commercially available in various models.
c. Press Cloth:
Fabrics used as press cloth should be color fast and should be washed or
boiled to remove starch.
d. Sleeve board:
This item is a small ironing board about 20” (.5 m) long used to press narrow areas,
such as sleeves, which cannot fit over the end of a regular ironing board.
e. Seam roll:
This item is a long, firm tubular cushion used to press long seams and small curved
areas. A seam line can be pressed without having the imprint of the seam
allowances showing through on the right side of the fabric.
A bag with compartments for keeping the things is essential. Arrange the contents in
such a way that there is a place for everything.
Answer in one or two words:
1.Name the tools used for marking.

2.What is pinking shear?
3.What is Scissor?
4.Write few words on Iron box.
5. Write the uses of color pencil.
Answer in detail :
1.Explain the tools used for measuring.

2.Write a note on marking chalk and tracing wheel.
3.While choosing needle and thread how will you select it. Explain its
types.
4.Write the difference between shear and scissor.
5.Explain on pressing tool.
6.Write notes on marking with diagram.
7.Write notes on measuring tools with diagram.
8.Explain in detail on different types of tools used for sewing with
diagram.
Lesson V
BASIC STITCHES/ SEAMS
INTRODUCTION:
A knowledge of various types of stitches is necessary for the beginners

before starting to sew on the original garment. It is better to practice
these stitches on a small piece of fabric prior to stitching on the original
garment. Keep the hands clean before stitching, so that the new clothes will not
spoil. Sit in a comfortable position while sewing and make a note that the light
falls from the left side of the person during day time and at night, the light falls
from the top. Basic stitches are divided into constructive & decorative
titches. Constructive stitches are further divided into Temporary & permanent
stitches.
A. TEMPORARY STITCHES:
Tacking or basting is a temporary stitch used for holding two or more layers
of fabric together before a permanent stitch in made. Usually the stitch is worked from
right to left, starting with a knot in a contrasting color thread, so that it can
be easily removed. There are several types of tacking stitches, four of them
are 1. Even tacking 2.Uneventacking 3. Diagonal tacking 4. Tailor’s tacking
Even Tacking :
Use a thin needle and start the stitch with a knot. The stitches are of
equal length about ¼” on both sides of the material. Many number of longer
stitches can be done at a time. This is used for tacking seams & other details
which must be held securely.
Uneven Tacking:
In this, the stitches on the upper side is½” or at least twice that on the
under side (¼”). This stitches can be used for longer folds & seams. This is
comparatively stronger than even tacking. Use this type of tacking as a guideline or
where there is little or no strain.
Diagonal Tacking:
While attaching two or more layer of fabrics this type of stitch is made about¼
” apart before making machine stitch .Work stitches through the material at
right angles to the fabric edge so that a diagonal or slanting stitch in made on the
upper side and a vertical stitch is made on the under side.
Tailor’s Tacking:
Start tacking using double thread of contrasting color, so that they can
be easily seen. Tack through double layer of fabric along the seam lines using even
stitches of½”length apart, leave them as loop without pulling it tight. After completing,
raise the upper layer of fabric slightly and clip the thread between the layers. So
that the thread tuft, will remain on both the layers of fabric and remain as a
guide line. This is especially used for marking details between patterns such as
dart markings and pleat markings.
B. P E R M A N E N T S T I T C H E S :
These stitches are made permanent on the fabric and need not be removed
later like Temporary stitches. Some of permanent stitches are 1. Running stitch
2.Back stitch3. Run and back stitch 4. Hemming stitch 5.Whipping stitch.
Running Stitch:
This is the simplest form of hand stitch which is used for
permanent sewing stitched using same color thread. Handmade seams, darning,
gathering and finishing edges can be donewith this stitch. It is similar to even basting,
but the stitches aremuch smaller, straight, fine and evenly spaced. It is comparativelyeasy
and can be worked fast.
Back stitch:
The back stitch is strong and sometimes substituted for machine stitch. It takes
much time. Care must be taken while stitching, since stitching is done on the
right side of the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric the stitch is similar to stem
stitch. Stitches should be about 1/8” long on theright side. To make the back stitch,
push needle up throughthe material at a point on the stitching line about 1/8”
from its right end. Take a stitchinserting the needle 1/8” back of the thread at the
beginning of the stitching line and bringingit out an equal distance in the front of the
thread. Repeat this way, keeping stitches uniformin size and fairly firmtwo running stitches
are combined and used for working plain seam done by hand. Thisstitch is faster than
back stitch and stronger than the running stitch.
Hemming stitch:
This is used to finish the raw edge of the garment usually referred as the
hem.Hemming must be fine, evenly spaced and must be inconspicuous from
the right side ofthe garment. Start the hem with a tiny knot and finish with the
same. Hemming must be asinvisible as possible on the right side. Of the garment
do slanting stitch on wrong side,close enough to hold the hem securely, picking one
or two yarns of the fabric. Usually thisstitch is seen in all types of garments. Improperly
hemmed garment may show problem as:
Hemming stitch
1. Stitches straightly formed 2. Knot prominently shown on right side
3.Puckered hem 4. Attached thread shown on right side 5. Stitches not evenly
spacedThis stitch is used for finishing sleeve edges, handkerchief, skirt,
hemline, necklineedges, piping, pillow covers and other edges also.
Whipping stitch:
This stitch is used to finish raw edges of fabrics and also in sleeves, collar of
kid’swear. The other name for this stitch is overcastting and rolled hem.
Whipping producesslanting stitches taking stitches over the rolled fabric edge with needle in
a straight position.Do stitching from right hand side of the fabric till the left
end. After completing, start fromthe left end, inserting the needle on the same
point where the stitch is already formed.Continue the same way from the left to
right end. The finished fabric gives continuous ‘X’shape stitches. On both the sides
stitches appear similar in shape.
C. D E C O R A T I V E S T I T C H E S :
Embroidery is one of the decorative stitches. Embroidery is the art of

working ornamental designs on cloth, leathers, etc., with decorative
stitches. There are different kinds of embroidery which are known by special
names such as cut work, drawn thread work, appliqué, smocking etc. For
successful embroidery work, it is essential to learn the basic stitches, acquire the
ability to choose the right type of stitches, designs, color combinations suited
to the type of fabric, the purpose and use the garment or article on which the
embroidery is to be made.
Stem Stitch:
This is a line stitch used for outlining designs, especially stems and leaves. It
can also be used for filling small designs by working several lines side by side. Work
should be done from the bottom upwards each time taking a stitch almost vertically down ,but
with a slight slant. While working the stitches thread should be held down with
your thumb away from the stitching line.
Cable Stitch:
This stitch is worked from left to right. Bring the thread through on the
line of thedesign. Insert the needle a little to the line and bring the needle out
to the left midway between the length of thestitch, with the thread below the
needle. Work the nextstitch in the same way but with the thread above
theneedle. Continue in this way, alternating the position ofthe thread. This stitch
may also be worked on even weave fabric.
Chain Stitch:
This is done side by side to fill large shapes or can be used to work single
lines.Work the stitches towards you starting from the top of theline. Bring the
thread out to the right side of fabric. Insertneedle in fabric at the same point, holding the
thread downwith your left thumb. Bring the needle point out a shortdistance
ahead and pull it through, keeping the workingthread under the needle. The result is
a loop. In starting the next stitch remember to insertthe needle just inside the loop.
Lazy daisy stitch:
This is an elongated chain stitch used to work petals of small flowers and
small leaves. Bring the threadout on the right side near the base of one petal. Take along
stitch of the length of the petal and pull the needlethrough fabric, looping the
threads under the needle. To hold the end of the loop in placeinsert the needle down
over the thread which forms the loop.
Magic chain stitch:

This stitch is worked in the same way as chain stitch, but having twocontrasting
threads in the needle at the same time. When making the loops,pass one color under the
needle point and let the other color lie on top. Pullthrough both threads. Work the
next loop with the other color under theneedle.
Straight stitch:
This is a single spaced stitches worked eitherin a regular or irregular

manner. Sometimes the stitches are ofvarying size. The stitches should be neither
too loose nor too long.This stitch may also be worked on even weave fabric. This
is alsocalled as single satin stitch.
Blanket stitch:
This stitch is used as an edging for blanket and other articles or as part of a
designfor which the blanket stitch makes the border. It is alsoused in cut
work and appliqué work. It is worked between apair of lines (usually parallel). The work
should be done fromleft to right, stitching towards you. Bring thread out on
thelower line, insert needle in position on upper line and take adownward stitch with
the thread under the needle point. Drawout the thread. Stitches may be of the same size
at regular distances apart or groupedand spaced according to the effect desired. To
make scalloped edge using blanket stitches,outline two rows of scallops with running
stitch and work blanket stitches between the tworows. Trim fabric away close to
scallops after the work is completed.
Fly stitch:
Bring the thread through at the top left, hold it down with the left thumb,
insert theneedle to the right on the same level, a little distance fromwhere the
thread first emerged and take a small stitchdownwards to the centre with the
thread below the needle.Pull through and insert the needle again below the stitch
atthe centre and bring it through in position for the next stitch.This stitch may be
worked in single or in horizontal rows orvertically in two rows.
Feather stitch:
The working of this stitch is similar to that of the blanketstitch, but the stitches slant
towards a centre line from eitherside. First mark a line lightly to indicate
the centre line.Working from top to bottom, bring needle out at the beginningof the
marked line. Hold the thread down along the centreline. Starting from the right
of the line take a stitch with theneedle slanting downwards, and bring it out on
or near thecentre line with a thread held under. Pull the needle through, and take the
next stitch fromthe left of the line with the needle slanting down and to the
right. Continue working stitchesalternately on the right and left, keeping them evenly
spaced and of equal length and slant.Make double or triple feather stitch by
making two or three slanting stitches on one sideand then a similar number on
the other side.
Chevron stitch:
This stitch is worked between double line. Bring the thread through on the lower lineat
the left side, insert the needle a little to the right on the same line and take a small
stitchto the left emerging half-way between the stitch being made.Next, insert
the needle on the upper line a little to the right andtake a small stitch to the
left. Insert the needle again on thesame line a little to the right and take a
small stitch to the left,emerging at centre as at B. Work in this way alternately
on theupper and lower lines. This stitch may also be worked onevenweave fabric.
Seed stitch:
This simple filling stitch is composed of small straight stitches ofequal

length placed at random over the surface. This stitch is used to fillsmall spaces.
Couching:
Lay a thread along the line of the design and with another thread,tie it down at even
intervals with a small stitch into the fabric. The tyingstitch can be of
contrasting color to the laid thread if desired.
Fish bone stitch:

This stitch is useful for filling small shapes. Bring the thread throughA and mark a small
straight stitch along the centre line of the shape. Bringthe thread through again at B and
make a sloping stitch across the centralline at the base of first stitch. Bring the thread
through at C and make asimilar sloping stitch to overlap the previous stitch.
Continue working alternately on each side until the shape is filled.
Herringbone stitch:
This is used as a decorative stitch as well as for finishinghems and raw edges of
seams. Stitches are worked from left toright along two parallel lines. Bring out the
thread at the bottomleft hand corner of the work. Insert the needle on the top line at apoint
farther to the right and take a short stitch through fabricfrom right to left so as
to get a slanting stitch. Now take a short stitch through fabric fromright to left
on lower line to get another slanting stitch crossing the first one at point little.
OTHER KINDS OF STITCHES
SEAMS
Sewing Seams and Seam Finishes 1
Seams are the lines of stitching which hold two pieces of fabric together.
In general, we try sewing seams as inconspicuous as possible, and in most
cases, as strong as possible. For this reason always make sure that you use
good quality cotton for sewing seams.
The types of seam we use depend on the strength and the appearance we want
to give. In some cases the seam may be used as part of the decoration, or for a
functional purpose.
Plain seams are simplest and are used

most often. Put two pieces of material, right
sides together, and stitch on wrong side at
required seam allowance, usually ½ inch (1
cm) from edge. Open and press flat. Edges
may be pinked.
Stitched plain seamis made in the

same way as a plain seam and then
stitched again on the right side 1/8 inch
from seam line on one or both sides for a
tailored effect.
Flat fell seamis used when you need a flat finish, as in shirts and pyjamas.
Make a plain seam, trim one edge to 1/8 inch, and turn in other edge ¼ inch
(1/2 cm). Baste to position over trimmed edge and edge stitch. This is usually
done on the right side.(See picture below)
Hem felled seamis made like flat fell except that seam is hemmed, rather
than edge stitched, for a softer effect.
Flannel fell seamis used on heavier fabric, like wool. Make a plain seam,
trim one edge to ½ inch (1 cm), and fold other part over without turning in raw
edge. Catch stitch.(See picture below)
Welt seamis used for flat finish on heavy material. Make a plain seam on
wrong side, trim one edge, fold the other over it without turning in the raw
edge, and stitch on outside. For double welt, stitch a second line close to
original seam stitching.(See picture below)
Slot seamis a decorative seam, sometimes to show another colour or design

underneath. Turn both seam edges under on sewing line, lap them over a strip
of material, with edges meeting or not as desired, and stitch the proper
distance from the fold on both sides.(See picture below)
French seamis used for sheer materials and underwear. Make a plain seam
on right side (with wrong sides together), ¼ inch outside the seam allowance.
Trim edges to ½ inch, turn to wrong side and stitch on seam allowance to make
this seam within a seam. Do not allow any frayed edge to show.(See picture
below)
Upholsterer’s seamis made like a French seam except that you start on the
wrong side and the finished seam shows on the right side. The effect is like that
of cording and is often used for slip covers.
False French seamis made with a plain seam on wrong side. Turn edges
under ¼ inch and sew together with running stitch or by machine.
French fellis made with a plain seam and one thickness is then trimmed to
½ inch. Fold other edge over cut edge, turn in ¼ inch, and hem to machine
stitching.
Fagoted seamhas a space between fabric edges. Decide how far apart edges
are to be, turn edges back one-half the width of the finished open space, baste
them to a slip of paper, and fagot. Very decorative.(See picture below)
Hemstitched seamis basted as for plain seam, and pressed to one side.
Have seam hemstitched and trim seam allowance close to hemstitching. A line
of machine stitching can be done ½ inch (1 cm) from stitching on wrong sided.
Lapped seamwill look like a fell seam when finished. Turn one piece of
material under on the seam allowance. Baste the folded edge on to the right
side of the other piece, at the seam allowance. Edge stitch.
Tucked seamis similar to lapped seam except that the final stitching is done
not at the edge, but at a distance from the fold. The effect is like that of a
tuck.
Lapped hemstitched seamis done by lapping seams, as explained under
lapped seam. Hemstitch over the basting, trim away seam on wrong side.(See
picture below)
Machine picoted seamis like hemstitched over the basting, trim away seam
on wrong side.
Rolled whipped seam. Make a plain seam, trim the allowance to half, roll
edges tightly a little at a time, putting needle under roll, not through it.(See
picture below)
Sewing Seams and Seam Finishes 2
A continuation of the techniques in Seams 1 with illustrations that show you

how to do some of the seams.
Strap seam is used for decoration. Plain seam is made and pressed open. On
the right side, baste a strip of material with edges turned in, and edge stitch
both sides. Braid and other trimmings may also be used.
Corded seam uses cord which has been basted inside a bias strip. Place
bias covered cord on the right side of one piece of material with basting directly
on seam line, cut edges towards edge of fabric. Baste and place second piece of
fabric, right sides facing, edges together, in position as for plain seam. Baste
and stitch on seam line, using cording foot.
Piped seam. Fold bias strip in half and

placed on the right side of fabric with fold
1/8 inch inside seam line. Baste and place
other piece right side down on top; baste
and stitch. Trim seam, press so that piping
falls along edge of seam. Decorative.
Curved seam must be clipped or slashed

in several places to make it lie flat. This is
important for smooth finish.
Enclosed seams are plain seams used in

double thicknesses as in collar and cuffs.
Trim very close, clip edges to lie flat, press
and turn.
Crossed seams are two seams that cross.

To avoid bulkiness, press seams open and
clip away edges of under seam.
Whipped seam is used for piecing when fabric is not wide enough to cut full
pattern. Be sure grain of piecing is the same as the grain of garment / sewing
project, turn in edges, and overcast with tiny stitches.
Seams with inserts. Place lace or trimming on right side, baste, and hem
edges by hand, or use zigzag attachment or zigzag stitch on zigzag machine. On
wrong side, cut fabric away, and roll edges, or turn the edges back and stitch
them, but not to the garment / sewing project.
Bias seam should be sewed over paper to avoid tightening. Tear paper away.
Raw seam edges are finished to prevent fraying and ravelling and to act as
stay lines so that seams do not pull out of shape. Finish must be suitable for
the texture and transparency of the material.
Pinking is done with pinking shears and is a very simple finish. However,
pinking should be done only on firmly woven fabrics.
Clean finish is the name for seam edges which are turned back ½ inch and
stitched. The seam so finished is called a silk seam.
Binding is done by enclosed edges in binding and stitching.
Overcasting is explained and illustrated in Basic Stitches 2
Hemstitching and picoting are done on transparent fabric seam edges.

Picoting gives a very decorative effect, and is sometimes used to finish seam
edges which are going to be fagoted together.
1. How do you finish at the end of a hand sewing stitch?

2. What are the different types of hand stitches?
3. What stitch is used to strengthen a corner or point in sewing?
4. What are the different types of stitches used in sewing?
Enrichment Activity :
Machine Stitching
1. Practice sewing. Start with straight sewing using different stitch lengths.
2. Practice sewing machine basting.
3. Continue practicing all kinds of stitches using different directions until
you become very comfortable with the sewing machine.
4. Make a sample of each kind of stitches and seams.
Lesson VI
TAKING BODY MEASUREMENT
Measuring Your Body Step-by-Step
You might want to print out this page so that you can write down your
measurements after each step:
Shoulder to shoulder
Measure in a straight line from the outer edge from one shoulder to the other.
Bust
Under your arms, around the fullest part of

your chest (usually on your nipple area).
Wrap the tape around your back and
forward to the fullest part of your bust.
Natural waist
Around the narrowest part of your torso.
This is one of the areas we tend to pull in

when it’s exposed. That's natural. I do it
myself when I'’m wearing my bikini or a
fitted dress. But we need to find the exact
waist measurement, so avoid holding your
breath.
Hips
Measure around the widest part of your

hips (usually the area where your hip bones are located). This should be done
with your feet close together.
Rise
Measure from your natural waist down to your crotch. Hold the tape a little
loose, gently pull it through the legs (from your crotch, between your legs) and
up to the same level as your natural waist.
Inseam
From crotch to the inside of your ankle. Start from the ankle and up. This is
best done with a partner. PS: This is how you find your best pants length
(petite, average or tall)
Tips on How to Take Exact Measurements:
• Measure yourself after a meal (like lunch or dinner) to get the most
accurate read of your body
• Do it a couple of days after or before having your menstrual period. Who
doesn’t retain more water during menstruation cycle?
Questions:
1. What tools are needed in taking body measurements?

2. What measurements are needed in making the pattern for a blouse?
How are these measurements taken?
3. What pointers should be observed when taking body measurements?
4. Why should body measurements be taken correctly and accurately?
Enrichment Activity:
Measure at least five persons of different body structures.
Lesson VII
PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE
Introduction
This part of the course introduces the students to the

skillsrequired for converting fabrics into a sewn garment. It is a veryimportant
skill that gives hands-on experience in garment assembly. Garment making is
an introduction to the basic skill of sewing whichis essential to convert the
design on paper into a garment.Garment making is one of the basic content of
fashion designing. Proficiency in the art of sewing is an essential pre-requisite in garment
making. Therefore, it is necessary to know the techniquesof sewing for producing
attractive garments with good fit. Garment making is thus a technical
accomplishment that requires knowledgeof fabrics, principles of clothing
construction and skills involved in it. This depends on the ability to select the
correct fabric, colour,design and accessories to suit an individual occasion. A
garmentthat is made will be attractive if it fits well and proper attention is paid
to its finer details
SEWING
In sewing, a seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric, leather,
or other materials are held together with stitches. Prior to the invention of the
sewing machine, all sewing was done by hand. Seams in modern mass-
produced household textiles, sporting goods, and ready-to-wear clothing are
sewn by computerized machines, while home shoemaking, dressmaking,
quilting, crafts, haute couture and tailoring may use a combination of hand
and machine sewing.
In clothing construction, seams are classified by their type (plain, lapped,
abutted, or French seams and position in the finished garment (center back
seam, inseam, side seam). Seams are finished with a variety of techniques to
prevent raveling of raw fabric edges and to neaten the inside of garments.
Parts of Sewing Machine
Sewing machine
Elias Howe's lockstitch machine, invented 1845
A sewing machine is a textile machine used to stitch fabric, cards and other
material together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first
Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work
performed in clothing companies. Since the invention of the first working
sewing machine, generally considered to have been the work of Englishman
Thomas Saint in 1790the sewing machine has vastly improved the efficiency
and productivity of fabric, clothing and needle industries.
Needle plate, foot and feed dogs of a sewing machine
Singer sewing machine
A Merrow 70-Class machine (2007)
Home sewing machines are similar—designed for one person to manually sew
individual items while using a single stitch type. Modern sewing machines are
designed in such a way that the fabric easily glides in and out of the machine
without the hassle of needles and thimbles and other such tools used in hand
sewing, automating the process of stitching and saving time.
Industrial sewing machines, by contrast, are larger, faster, more complex, and
more varied in their size, cost, appearance, and task.
The fabric shifting mechanism may be a workguide or may be pattern-

controlled (e.g., jacquard type). Some machines can create embroidery-type
stitches. Some have a work holder frame. Some have a workfeeder that can
move along a curved path, while others have a workfeeder with a work clamp.
Needle guards, safety devices to prevent accidental needle-stick injuries, are
often found on modern sewing machinesese are parts common to many sewing
machines. However, since there are so many sewing machine models out there,
these parts may or may not be on your particular machine.
Head - The complete sewing machine without cabinet or carry case.
Bed - The flat surface of the sewing machine. A flat bed machine has one level
to sew on. A free-arm bed has a removable U-shaped part of the bed to reveal
an arm or tub used for sewing hard-to-reach areas like a pant cuff or sleeve.
Hand wheel - the wheel located on the right side of the sewing machine. This
wheel is driven by the motor, but may be turned by hand to adjust needle
height.
Bobbin Winder - Mechanism used to wind bobbins.
Bobbin - Low spool that provides the lower thread.
Thread take-up - Arm that pulls up slack in thread.
Thread guide - Device which carries thread to a certain location.
Upper tension - Mechanism which controls delivery of upper thread.
Lower tension - Provided by the bobbin case.Controls delivery of the bottom

thread.
Bobbin Case - Device which hold the bobbin and provides tension to the lower
thread.
Pressure Foot - Foot that presses down on fabric to stabilize its movement.
Feed Dog - Mechanism which controls motion of the fabric.
Needle Plate - Plate under pressure foot with slots to allow feed dog to reach
fabric and opening for the needle to move up and down.
Hook - Device which picks the thread off of the needle.
Feed drop - Adjustment used to take the feed dog out of play for free hand
work.
Stitch length - Adjustment used to determine length from front to back of the
stitch.
Stitch width - Adjustment which allows a variety of widths from side to side.
Spool pin: Holds a spoolof thread.
Bobbin winder spindle: Bobbin is placed here during winding.
Bobbin winder stopper: Stops winding the bobbin when it reaches capacity.
Stitch width dial: Controls the width your stitch. It is used to create a zigzag
stitch.
Handwheel: The large knob on the right side of your machine. Manually raises
and lowers the needle.
Reverse stitch lever: The machine will sew in reverse while the lever is
pushed. Depending on your machine model, this may be a button.
Power switch: The off-on switch is usually located on the right side of the
machine, beneath the handwheel.
Bobbin winder thread guide: A thread guide used when a bobbin is being
wound.
Thread tension dial: Controls the tension on the top thread. If too tight, the
bobbin thread appears on the right side of the fabric. If set too loose, the needle
thread loops on the underside of the fabric.
Thread take-up lever: The top thread passes through the thread take-up lever.
It moves up and down with the needle.
Needle clamp screw: This clamp holds the needle in place.
Presser foot: When lowered using a lever on the back side of the machine,
this foot holds fabric in place.
Needle: A needle pushes the thread through the fabric to form a stitch.
Needle plate: A metal plate beneath the needle and presser foot. It has an
opening for the needle to pass through as it stitches, and another for the feed
dogs to emerge and help move the fabric forward during sewing. Also called a
throat plate.
Presser foot holder

The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder
Machine Stitching
1. Practice sewing. Start with straight sewing using different stitch lengths.
2. Practice sewing machine basting.
3. Continue practicing all kinds of stitches using different directions until
you become very comfortable with the sewing machine.
4. Demonstrate the correct way of doing the following :
a. Threading the machine (upper and lower )
b. Changing/ replacing blunt or broken needles
c. Adjusting the length of stitches
d. Winding thread on the bobbin
e. Adjusting the thread tension regulator
5. Demonstrate the correct way of operating the sewing machine
a. Beginning and ending stitches
Lesson VIII
PATTERN MAKING
MAKING YOUR OWN SEWING PATTERNS
Sewing patterns serve to be really useful when talking about sewing as

these patterns not just save time and efforts, but are really helpful to prevent
one from ruining the fabric. These patterns are available in plenty at the fabric
stores andare there for almost every type of sewing project. But, there are times
when one may wish to go with a particular pattern that is not readily available.
Thus, at such times, it is best to make your own sewing patterns.
How to go about it?
To start with, you will have to make drawing of the pattern that you want
on your finished product or item. Then, after you make the pattern, you will
have to transfer it to some tissue paper to make the rough drawing on the
material. At this stage, you can use the cheap fabrics or scrap materials in
order to practice pattern making.
Also, if you wish like making a vintage dress for yourself, you can learn
the art of sewing pattern even from your home through the online classes
available. This way, your much liked outfit can be made with ease. There are
some sewing workshops as well that help you to make those perfect sewing
patterns and designs and solve all queries related to this field. The best part to
note is the fact that there are classes in plenty that offer the sewing pattern
and design courses.
The fundamentals of dressmaking lie in the relationship between the

human body and the fabric itself. The shape of the fabric must conform to the
shape of parts of the body it covers. We call this relationship as fit. Fit itself
has two aspects: static fit and dynamic fit. A dress should fit to a body that
stand still as well as a body in movement. Pattern-makers add additional cloth
to a perfectly fit pattern to allow movement in certain pivotal points and to
increase the comfort level. The term used for this additional cloth is ease.
As fashion designers put more attention to the styles, pattern-makers
focus on the technical aspects of a garment. Fit, ease, and hang become
mostly-used terms. The fact that pattern-makers concern with the accuracies
of body measurements and basic pattern shapes shows the technical aspects of
pattern-making skill. It is unreasonable to expect a good pattern line if the
basic pattern from which it is evolved does not have it. It is also hard to get a
good basic pattern without correct body measurements.
Basic Pattern-Making
• Basic bodice for women

• Sleeves
o Draft a pattern for a basic sleeve, alter a basic sleeve into a sleeve
for dropped shoulder, make armscye larger/smaller
o Alter a basic sleeve into a sleeve with gatherings
o Alter a basic sleeve into a raglan sleeve
• Pants
o Draft patterns for women’s pants
o Alter patterns of basic pants for different styles of pants (pleated
pants, Bermudas, jeans and casual pants without side seam)
o Draft patterns for men’s pants
o Draft patterns for babies’ and children’s pants
• Skirt – Draft patterns for women’s basic skirt
Drafting patterns for basic bodice (sloper)
According to the instructions on this page patterns for basic bodice are drafted
using the pattern drafting system. To keep the instructions simple, only
centimeters are used.
Here are some table measurements you need. All measurements are given
in centimeters.
TABLE
MEASUREMENTS cm
Size 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54
Bust 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122 128
Bust dart 4,3 5,1 5,8 6,6 7,3 8,1 8,8 9,6 10,8 12,1 13,3 14,6
Armscyeheight 20,4 20,8 21,2 21,6 22 22,4 22,8 23,2 23,8 24,4 25 25,6
Front
4,6 4,4 4,2 4 3,8 3,6 3,4 3,2 3 2,8 2,6 2,4
shoulder
height
Back shoulder
2,35 2,4 2,45 2,5 2,55 2,6 2,65 2,7 2,75 2,8 2,85 2,9
height
Add ease to the measurements of the subject according to the table below.
IMPORTANT!When proceeding, always use measurements where ease has
been added.
EASE cm + = 1/2
Bust 8
Back width 1,6
Waist 6
Abdomen 4 -
Hip 4
Do the following calculations to get some extra measurements.
CALCULATIONS cm
= +/- =
Armscye
(bust+ease)/8 -1.5
width
Bust span (bust+ease)/5 0
Neck width neck/5 -1.0
Neck depth neck/5 +0.5
Neck length,
neck/5 -0.5
back
Drafting the patterns
Draft a frame according to picture below.
1-2 = bust
circumference
divided by 2
2-3 = armscye
height
2-4 = back length
4-5 = abdomen
height
4-6 = hip height
1-7 = back width

divided by 2
7-8 = armscye
width
Mark points from

9 to 18
4-19 = bust span divided by 2
19-20 = waist height minus bust height
2-21 = neck width (refer to calculations)
Draft vertical lines upwards from points

2 and 21. Trace point 22 on line from
point 21; 20-22 = bust height minus
back neck length (refer to calculations).
8-23 = front shoulder height; draft

horizontal line from point 23 to the right;
mark point 24 on the line
7-25 = back shoulder height; draft horizontal line from point 25 to the left;
mark point 26 on the line
1-27 = neck width (same as 2-21; refer to calculations); draft vertical line from
27 upwards
Move point 1 0.5 cm upwards
27-28 = 2.5 cm; draft back neck arc 1-28
28-29 = shoulder length + 2 cm (point 29

must be on line 25-26)
Draft horizontal line from point 22 to the

left, get point 22a
22a-22b = neck depth (refer to

calculations)
28-30 = 7 cm
30-31 = 3 cm
Measure 4 cm from point 28 on line 28-29 and move upwards 0.6 cm to get
point 32
Measure 2 cm from point 32 on line 28-29 and move upwards 0.6 cm to get
point 33
Draft an arc with radius of bust height

minus neck length, center point 20
Draft an arc with radius of bust dart (refer

to table measurements), center point 22
Mark point 34 at the intersection of these

arcs.
34-35 = shoulder length (point 35 must be

on line 23-24)
Draft vertical line downwards from 31 to

get points 36 and 37
37-38 = 5 cm
Mark point 39.

Mark point 39a. 39a-39b = 2 cm
Measure distance 4-13. Subtract waist circumference divided by 2 from this
distance. Divide result by 6 = a.
39-40 = a
39-41 = a
16-42 = a
16-43 = a
19-44 = a
18-45 = a
Draft vertical line from point 19 downwards to get points 46 and 47
47-48 = 5 cm
Measure distance 6-15. Subtract this distance from hip circumference divided
by 2. Divide the result by 2 = b.
18-49 = b
18-50 = b
9-51 = 1/4 distance 8-9
10-52 = 1/2 distance 7-10
Draft Center Front piece 22b - 3 - 4 - 5

- 6 - 46 - 48 - 45 - 20 - 22
Draft Front Side piece 34 - 20 - 44 - 48

- 46 - 49 - 17 - 43 - 11 - 51 - 35
Draft Back piece 1 - 28 - 32 - 31 - 33 -

29 - 52 - 11 - 42 - 17 - 50 - 36 - 15 - 14
- 13 - 12
Draft back waist dart 39b - 41 - 38 -

40.
Rotate bust dart 4 cm to the left

according to the picture.
To get instructions of how to draft

patterns for a basic sleeve,
Drafting Patterns For Basic Sleeve
Take patterns for the garment you are going to sew. Measure the length and
width of the armscye from the pattern. Refer to the picture under.
1-3-5 = armscye length 2-3-4 = armscye width 2-3 and 3-4 = 1/2 armscye
width Divide armscye length by 3 to get the cap height. Measure the subject's
biceps circumference. Add 6-8 cm ease to it. Measure the subject's sleeve
length from the cap top to the wrist.
Draw a vertical line A-B corresponding to the subject's sleeve length. Divide it
in half and you get point C. Draw a horizontal line D-E corresponding to the
subject's biceps measurement (biceps circumference + ease)
Measure from point C downwards 4 cm and draw the elbow line. Measure 2.5
cm from point A to the left and to the right and you get points F and G.
Measure 1/2 armscye width from point J to the right to get point K.
• Measure cap height from point A downwards and you get point H.
• Draw a horizontal line J-L which corresponds the subject's biceps
measurement (biceps circumference + ease).
• Draw a vertical line from K upwards 3 cm and you get point M.
• Divide the line F-M in three and you get points N and O.
• Divide line G-L in four and you get points P, Q and R.
• The points N1, O1, P1, Q1 and R1 are situated as in the picture above:
N1 0.7cm left from N. O1 1cm left from point O. P1 0.2cm right from P.
Q1 0.3cm left from Q. R1 0.9cm left from R.
Draw the sleeve cap smoothly through points J - M - N1- O1 - A -P1 - Q1 - R1 -
L as in the picture above.
Draft rest of the sleeve according to the picture above.
If you want to draft an elbow dart to the sleeve, cut the

sleeve along elbow line and rotate bottom piece 2 cm
clockwise, refer to the picture. When drafting the new
outline of the sleeve, notice the place of the elbow dart
apex.
Altering a basic sleeve into a sleeve for dropped shoulder
Lower sleeve cap with 3-6 cm. Lengthen shoulder with the same amount. Look
at the picture below.
Making armscye larger/smaller
This is the rule you have to follow :
If you lower the armscye of the bodice, you have to broaden the sleeve at the
armpit with the same amount. This makes the sleeve larger at the armscye.
Refer to the picture below where the sleeve has been broadened at the armpit
with totally 6 cm (3 + 3 cm).
And vice versa: If you reduce the sleeve at the armpit, you have to raise the
armscye of the bodice. This makes the sleeve smaller at the armscye. Please
notice that if you lower the armscye of the bodice too much, you will not be
able to raise your hand. So be careful when lowering the armscye.
Drafting Patterns For Women's Basic Skirt
ADDING EASE
You would not be able to wear the skirt if the patterns were drawn exactly to
your body measurements. Therefore you have to add ease to some of the
measurements. The basic skirt usually is a tight fitting garment and therefore
only a small amount of ease is added.
ADD TO THE WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE: 2 cm

ADD TO THE HIP CIRCUMFERENCE: 4 cm
Do not add any ease to other measurements.
Write down the measurements in the table below.
Body Body measurement +

measurement ease
WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE * +2 cm=
ABDOMEN
*
CIRCUMFERENCE
HIP CIRCUMFERENCE (if

your abdomen circumference
is more than your hip * + 4 cm=
circumference, use it for
your hip circumference)
ABDOMEN HEIGHT *
HIP HEIGHT *
SKIRT LENGTH FROM

*
WAIST TO HEM
DO THE FOLLOWING CALCULATIONS:
Round the measurements up to the nearest 0.5 cm.
Divided Divided Divided

Body measurement + ease
by 2 by 4 by 10
Waist circumference * * *
Hip circumference * * *
Draw a frame first.
1) Start by drawing a vertical line that corresponds to the length of the

skirt. This is the center front line of the skirt.
2) Draw a horizontal line at the top of the vertical line. This is the waist
line of the skirt.
3) Draw a horizontal line at the bottom of the vertical line. This is the
hem line of the skirt.
4) Measure down from the waist line a distance equal to the abdomen
height and draw a horizontal line. This is the abdomen line.
5) Measure down from the waist line a distance equal to the hip height
and draw a horizontal line. This is the hip line.
6) On the waist line, measure 1/2 of Hip circumference to the right from
the skirt's front center line and draw a vertical line from there down to
the hem line. This is the center back line of the skirt.
7) On the waist line, measure 1/4 hip circumference and 1.5 cm to the
right from the skirt's front center line and draw a vertical line from there
down to the hem line. This is the side line. The side line is thus moved
1.5 cm towards back to prevent it from being seen from the front.
Darts
8) On the waist line, measure 1/10 waist

circumference to the right from the skirt's front
center line and start the front dart from there.
Make the dart 2 cm wide. The dart extends
from the waist line to the abdomen line. Draw
the right side of the dart so that it forms a right
angle where it meets the abdomen line.
Back dart is 2.5 cm wide. Center it at the

midpoint of the back waistline. Vertically, the
back dart extends to the midpoint between the
abdomen and the hip height.
9) Mark the waist side points according to the

picture. First, calculate the amount of width
you have to remove on the waist line. Subtract 1/2 waist circumference (+ease)
and the widths of the darts (2 and 2.5 cm) from 1/2 hip circumference (+ease).
Measure 1/2 of this amount to the right and to the left from the top point of
the side line. Finally, raise front and back waist side points 1 cm.
If the difference between your hip circumference and your waist circumference
is 25 cm (10") or more, draw two front darts. Measure 6 cm from side line to
the left and start one dart from there. Place the other dart 4 cm to the left of
the first dart. Make the darts 2 cm wide.
Round abdomen
If you have a round abdomen, raise the front center by 2-3 cm to make more
room for it.
Raised waist
Remove ease from the waist measurements. Draft the raised waist to the skirt's
waist mirroring darts to it. Draft facing pieces copying them from the skirt's
raised waist as in the picture. Move and rotate the
pieces to form whole facing pattern.
Questions :
1. What measurements are needed in drafting the pattern for a blouse ?

Skirt?
2. What tools and materials are needed in drafting the pattern for a blouse?
Skirt?
3. Explain the steps in drafting the patterns needed for a blouse ? Skirt?
1. Gather the necessary drafting tools and materials. Review how to use the
drafting tools particularly the Tailor’s square.
2. Following the given instructions, draft a pattern for a standard blouse for
yourself. And layout the pattern on the cloth. Then Sew.
References :
http://www.fabriclink.com
Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Prepared by:
Adoracion T. Gante
Assistant Professor IV

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BASIC CLOTHING

1|Bas ic Clothing – Adoracion T. Gante

This module is about ….

The Clothing Module aims to enable us to make thoughtful choices when

2|Bas ic Clothing – Adoracion T. Gante

Lesson II- Fibers

Lesson III- Fabric Construction

Lesson IV- Tools for Clothing Construction

Lesson V-Basic Stitches / Seams

Lesson VI- Taking Body Measurement

Lesson VII- Parts of Sewing Machine and its Function

Lesson VIII- Pattern Making

3|Bas ic Clothing – Adoracion T. Gante

1.1 To identify the reasons why people wear

2. To become aware of personal responsibilities

2.1 To identify and describe briefly some of the

3. To apply information and skills useful in the

4|Bas ic Clothing – Adoracion T. Gante

EARLY DEVELOPMENT OF S EWING AND FABRIC:

5|Bas ic Clothing – Adoracion T. Gante

6|Bas ic Clothing – Adoracion T. Gante

7|Bas ic Clothing – Adoracion T. Gante

7. Styles and Colors:

8|Bas ic Clothing – Adoracion T. Gante

9|Bas ic Clothing – Adoracion T. Gante

Answer the following:

Since these areavailable naturally, it is called as natural fibers.

Principal Origin:NaturalChemical Type:CellulosicGeneric

Cotton Emblem Plant&Flax Plant

A scientist named Hooke in seventeenth century suggested that if proper liquid

Rayon was the first fiber to be produced commercially. By the passage of

b. ACETATE AND TRIACETATE:

Answer the following :

1.Name any two synthetic fibers.

After reading this lesson you will be able to:

The weaving operation can be compared to ‘chatai’ making. When a

In weaving also, a similar process is carried out on a loom. Warp yarns

1. Plain Weave: - It is the simplest weave and therefore

In a knitted garment you will see the following:

WEAVING vs. KNITTING

Property Weaving Knitting

1. Why are knitted garments considered appropriate for winter wear?

No. Sample Weave

1. Give one word for the following sets of words :

TOOLS FOR CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION

Well selected sewing equipments are essential for making a garment of

Answer in one or two words:

1.Name the tools used for marking.

1.Explain the tools used for measuring.

BASIC STITCHES/ SEAMS

A knowledge of various types of stitches is necessary for the beginners

Embroidery is one of the decorative stitches. Embroidery is the art of

Magic chain stitch:

This is a single spaced stitches worked eitherin a regular or irregular

This simple filling stitch is composed of small straight stitches ofequal

Fish bone stitch:

Plain seams are simplest and are used

Stitched plain seamis made in the

Slot seamis a decorative seam, sometimes to show another colour or design

A continuation of the techniques in Seams 1 with illustrations that show you

Piped seam. Fold bias strip in half and

Curved seam must be clipped or slashed

Enclosed seams are plain seams used in