SERVICE MANUAL

Challenger 550 & 750

 Foreword

Brief introduction to the service and maintenance handbook

for 550/750 Challenger UV

This manual gives methods to check, maintain and repair the Cub Cadet 550 & 750
utility vehicles (UV’s), and supplies some relevant techniques and performance
data.

Please read the handbook through and fully understand it; otherwise, any
improper repairing could cause problems, and or an accident may occur.

Proper use and maintenance will reduce malfunctions, and help the vehicle
remain at its best performance level.

The standards, procedures and specifications mentioned in this manual are based on
the sample in design, and they are subject to changes according to the product’s
improvement without prior notice.
 INDEX

Chapter 1 Chapter 1
General General

Chapter 2 Chapter 3
Specifications Periodic
Maintenance and
Adjustments

Chapter 4 Chapter 5
Engine Chassis

Chapter 6 Chapter 7
Electrical Engine
Management
System

Chapter 8 Diagram
Troubleshooting
 INDEX
General Information Electrical System Fundamentals 1-24
Voltage 1-24
Chapter 1 Resistance, Amperage 1-25
Basic Service Methods 1-25
Warning, Caution, Note 1-1 Removing Frozen Fasteners 1-27
Description 1-2 Removing Broken Fastener 1-27
Vehicle Identification Code, Engine 1-3 Stud Removal, Removing Hoses 1-28
Number Bearings 1-28
Safety 1-4 Removal 1-29
Handling Gasoline, Cleaning Parts 1-5 Installation 1-30
Warning Labels, Serial Numbers, 1-6 Interference Fit 1-31
Fasteners Seal Replacement 1-32
Self Locking Fasteners, Washers, 1-7
Cotter Pins, Snap Rings and E- Storage
clips Area Selection 1-32
Preparing the UV for storage 1-33
Shop Supplies 1-8 Returning the UV to Service 1-33
Lubricants and Fluids,
Engine Oils, Greases, Brake Fluid 1-9
Coolant, Cleaners, Degreasers, Specifications
and solvents 1-10 Chapter 2
Gasket Sealant, Gasket Remover,
Thread Locking Compound 1-11 General Specifications 2-1
Engine Torque Specifications 2-18
Basic Tools 1-11 Chassis Torque Specifications 2-21
Screwdrivers 1-11 General Torque Specifications 2-23
Wrenches 1-12 Chassis Lubrication points 2-24
Adjustable Wrenches, Sockets, 1-13
Ratchets, and Handles Periodic Maintenance
Impact Drivers 1-14
Allen Wrenches 1-15 Chapter 3
Torque Wrenches, Torque 1-15
Adapters Periodic Maintenance Table 3-1
Pliers, Snap Ring Pliers 1-16 Periodic Maintenance 3-3
Ignition Grounding Tool 1-17 Engine
Precision Measuring Tools 1-17 Valve Clearance 3-4
Feeler Gauge, Calipers 1-18 Spark Plug 3-6
Micrometers 1-19 Compression Test 3-7
Adjustment and Care 1-20 Engine oil 3-7
Metric Micrometer 1-20 Oil Change 3-8
Standard Micrometer 1-21 Oil Pressure 3-9
Telescoping and Small Bore 1-22 Air Filter cleaning 3-9
Gauges Coolant Change 3-11
Dial Indicator, Compression Gauge 1-23 Coolant Bleeding 3-13
Multi meter 1-24 V-Belt Inspection 3-15
Replacement 3-16
Cleaning the Spark Arrester 3-16
Adjustment of the Parking Brake 3-18
Brake Fluid Level check 3-19
 INDEX
Brake lines, Bleeding the Brake 3-21 Crankcase, Starter Motor and Oil 4-31
Select Lever Shift Rod adjustment 3-24 Filter
Checking Final Gear Oil 3-25 Crankcase 4-32
Adjusting Toe In 3-26 Bearings 4-33
Front Shock Adjustment 3-27 Inspection 4-34
Brake light switch adjustment 3-27 Assembly 4-35
Steering system Inspection 3-29 Crankshaft and Oil Pump 4-36
Oil Pump 4-37
Inspection 4-38
Installation 4-39
Transmission 4-40
Drive Axle Assembly 4-41
Engine Inspection 4-42
Installation 4-43
Chapter 4 Middle Gear, Middle Drive Shaft 4-44
Middle Driven Shaft 4-45
Special Notes 4-1 Inspection 4-46
Engine removal 4-2 Installation 4-47
Cylinder Head and Cover 4-3
Inspection, installation 4-4
Rocker Arm and Camshaft 4-6 Chassis
Inspection 4-7 Chapter 5
Installation 4-8
Valves and Valve springs 4-9 Inspection 5-1
Inspection 4-10 Steering System 5-4
Installation 4-11 Steering Wheel Assembly 5-5
Cylinder and Piston 4-12 Disassembly, Inspection 5-6
Inspection 4-13 Installation 5-8
Installation 4-14 Brake System Inspection 5-9
Engine Cooling Fan and A.C. 4-15 Brake Line Removal 5-10
Magneto Brake Disc Removal 5-11
Inspection 4-16 Inspection 5-12
Installation 4-17 Brake Pad Removal 5-13
Balancer Gears and Oil Pump 4-19 Installation 5-14
Gears Front Brake Caliper Removal 5-15
Inspection 4-20 Brake Caliper Disassembly 5-16
Installation 4-20 Installation 5-17
Primary and Secondary Sheaves 4-21 Rear Brake Disc Removal 5-19
Primary Sheave 4-22 Inspection 5-20
Secondary Sheave 4-23 Rear Brake Caliper and Pads 5-21
Inspection 4-24 Rear Brake Pad Replacement, 5-23
Installation 4-25 Inspection 5-23
Clutch 4-27 Assembly and Installation 5-24
Disassembly 4-28 Brake Master Cylinder 5-26
Inspection 4-29 Inspection, Installation 5-27
Installation 4-30 Footrest Assembly 5-28
 INDEX
Front Wheel and Tire 5-30 Brake Master Cylinder 5-26
Rear Wheel 5-31 Inspection, Installation 5-27
Inspection, Installation 5-32 Footrest Assembly 5-28
Transmission Front Bridge 5-33 Starter Motor Troubleshoot 6-16
Front Bridge Removal 5-34 Starter Motor Removal 6-17
Disassembly 5-38 Charging Circuit Diagram 6-18
CV Joint Inspection 5-38 Charging System Troubleshoot 6-19
Differential Gear and Gear Motor 5-38 Lighting Circuit Diagram 6-20
Operation Signaling Circuit Diagram 6-21
U Joint Assembly 5-40 Cooling Circuit Diagram 6-22
Differential Gear Motor Adjustment 5-40 2WD / 4WD Select Circuit Diagram 6-23
Front Bridge Installation 5-41
Rear Bridge 5-42 Engine Management
Rear Differential Removal 5-44
Gear Shift Mechanism 5-47 System Chapter 7
Adjustment 5-48
Front Suspension and A Arm 5-49 Components 7-1
Inspection, Installation 5-51 E.C.U. 7-2
Rear Suspension 5-52 Fuel Injectors 7-3
Rear A Arm 5-53 Installation Guidelines 7-3
Inspection, Installation 5-54 Replacement 7-5
Cooling System 5-55 Cleaning Procedure 7-6
Inspection, Coolant replacement 5-57 Throttle Body 7-7
Water Pump Assembly 5-58 Engine Coolant Temperature 7-7
Disassembly, Inspection 5-60 Sensor
Assembly 5-61 Oxygen Sensor 7-8
Seat Assembly 5-62 Fuel Pump Module 7-8
Fuel System 5-63 Inspection 7-9
Fuel Pump Inspection 5-65 Removal, Installation 7-10
Fuel Leak Check 7-10
E.M.S. Fault Codes 7-11
Electrical
Chapter 6 Troubleshooting
Components 6-1 Chapter 8
Battery 6-3
Lead Acid Battery Charging 6-4 Spark Test 8-1
Maintenance Free Battery 6-6 Fuel System Check 8-2
Charging Compression Test 8-2
Checking Fuses 6-7 Engine Overheating 8-3
Switch Inspection 6-8 Engine Noises 8-4
Switch Locations 6-9 Cylinder Leak down 8-5
Bulbs and Sockets 6-10 Electrical checks 8-7
Ignition Circuit Diagram 6-11 Intermittent Problems 8-8
Ignition Troubleshoot 6-12 E.C.U. 8-9
Starting Circuit Diagram 6-15
Vehicle Identification Number

LWG MD WZ 44 E B 123456

LWG Manufacturer

MDM UV below 750cc

H UV above 750 cc

ZZ 550cc
WZ 750cc

44 DOT Check Digits

H 2017 Model Year
J 2018 Model year
K 2019 Model Year
L 2020 Model Year
M 2021 Model Year
A Manufacturing Plant A

B Manufacturing Plant B
12345 123456 Sequential Serial Number
 General Information

This manual provides complete information on maintenance, tune-up, repair and

overhaul. Hundreds of photographs and illustrations created during the complete
disassembly of Utility Vehicles (UV) guide the reader through every job. All procedures
are in step by step format and designed for the reader who may be working on the UV
for the first time.

Warnings, Cautions and Notes

The terms Warning, Caution and Note have specific meanings in this manual.

Warning
Emphasizes areas where injury or even death could result from
negligence.

Caution
Emphasizes areas where equipment damage could result.
Disregarding a Caution could cause permanent
Mechanical damage, although injury is unlikely.

Note
Provides additional information to make a step or procedure easier
or clearer. Disregarding a Note could cause inconvenience, but
would not cause equipment damage or injury.

1‐1
 General Information

Description
1. Front bumper assy.
2. Headlights
3. Front shock absorber
4. Brake pump
5. Steering wheel
6. Left door comp.
7. Driver seat belt
8. Cargo bed
9. Rear shock absorber
10. Tail lights
11. Muffler
12. Invert bracket assy
13. Fuel tank cap
14. Passenger seat belt
15. Right door comp.
16. Drive select lever
17. Air filter case (engine and air
intake duct) Rear brake fluid
reservoir
18. Head turn signal lamp
19. Water cooler
20. Front turning lights
21. High/low beam lights
22. 2/4 WD
23. The front axle differential
24. Range gear shift lever
25. Parking brake
26. Emergency light
27. Left/right turning switch
28. Brake pedal
29. Accelerator pedal
30. Winch cable
31. Rear axle differential unlock/lock
32. Cover storage box
33. Hand hold

NOTE:
The vehicle you have purchased may
differ slightly from those in the figures
of this manual.

1‐2
 General Information

Engine Identification Number

Part Three consists of Feature code I, year code, Feature code II, month code and serial
number.

Rear Spacer

Serial Number

Month Code
Feature Code II
Year Code
Feature Code I
Spacer

Feature Code I
Configuration Code Configuration Code
φ140 Clutch, 1:5 Taper 0 φ150 Clutch, 1:7 Taper 1
φ150 Clutch, 1:7 Taper, CARB Comp. 2

Year Code
Year Code Year Code Year Code Year Code
2010 A 2013 D 2016 G 2019 K
2011 B 2014 E 2017 H 2020 L
2012 C 2015 F 2018 J 2021 M
2
Feature Code II

Code Transmission Gear Ratios

0 41/21 Fixed Reduction +H（26/21）+L（35/17）

R 41/21 Fixed Reduction +H（30/18）+L（34/14）

2 42/19 Fixed Reduction +H（30/18）+L（34/14）

Month Code
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Code A B C D E F G H J K L M

1‐3
 General Information

Identification Code

Vehicle Identification Number

Vehicle Identification number is
stamped in the lower right side of
the frame.

Engine Number
Engine number is printed on a
white tag on top of the clutch
cover.

1‐3
 General Information
Safety
Professional mechanics can work for
many years and never sustain a serious
injury or mishap. Follow these
guidelines and practice common sense
to safely service the utility vehicle.
1. Do not operate the UV in an
enclosed area. The exhaust
gasses contain carbon monoxide,
which is an odorless, colorless
and tasteless poisonous gas.
Carbon monoxide levels build
quickly in small confined areas
and can cause unconsciousness
and death in a short time. Make
sure to properly ventilate the
work area or operate the UV
outside.
2. Never use gasoline or any
extremely flammable liquid to
clean parts. Refer to cleaning
parts and handling gasoline
safely in this section.
3. Never smoke or use a torch in
the vicinity of flammable liquids,
such as gasoline or cleaning
solvents.
4. If welding or brazing on the
UV move the fuel tank to a
safe distance, at least
50ftaway.
5. Use the correct type and size
tools to avoid damaging
fasteners.
6. Keep tools clean and in good
condition. Replace or repair worn
or damaged equipment.
7. When loosening a tight fastener,
be guided by what would happen
if the tool slips.
8. When replacing fasteners, make
sure the new fasteners are the
same size and strength as the
original ones.
1‐4
9. Keep your work area clean and
organized.
10. Wear eye protection anytime the
safety of the eyes is in question.
This includes procedures that
involve drilling, grinding,
hammering, use of compressed
air, and chemicals.
11. Wear the correct clothing for the
job. Tie up or cover long hair so it
does not get caught in moving
equipment.
12. Do not carry sharp tools in
clothing.
13. Always have an approved fire
extinguisher available. Make sure
it is rated for gasoline (class B)
and electrical (class C) fires.
14. Do not use compressed air to
clean clothing, the UV, or the
work area. Debris may be blown
into the eyes or skin. Never direct
compressed air at anyone. Do
not allow children to use or play
with any compressed air
equipment.
15. When using compressed air to
dry parts, hold the part so it does
not rotate. Do not allow the force
of the air to spin the part. The air
jet is capable of rotating parts at
extreme speed and the part may
disintegrate or become damaged
possibly causing injury.
16. Do not inhale the dust created by
brake pad and clutch wear.
These particles may contain
asbestos.
Some types of insulating
materials and gaskets may also
contain asbestos. Inhaling
asbestos particles is hazardous
to your health.
 General Information
fire and makes it more difficult to
Handling Gasoline put out. Use a class B, BC or
ABC fire extinguisher to
safely extinguish the fire.
8. Always turn off the engine before
Gasoline is a volatile flammable liquid
refueling. Do not spill fuel onto
and is one of the most dangerous items
the engine or exhaust system. Do
in the shop. Because gas is used so
not overfill the fuel tank. Leave an
often, many people forget about the
air space at the top of the tank to
hazards associated with its use. Gas
allow room for the fuel to expand
should only be used for fuel in a
due to temperature fluctuations.
gasoline internal combustion engine.
Keep in mind when working on the UV
that gasoline is always present in the Cleaning Parts
fuel tank, fuel lines and carburetor. To
avoid an accident when working around Cleaning parts is one of the more
a fuel system, carefully observe the tedious and difficult service jobs
following precautions. performed in the home garage. Many
types of chemical cleaners and solvents
1. Never use gas to clean parts. are available for shop use. Most are
Refer to cleaning parts in this poisonous and extremely flammable. To
section. prevent chemical exposure, vapor
2. When working on the fuel buildup, fire and serious injury, observe
system, work outside or in a each product warning label and note the
well-ventilated area. following.
3. Do not add fuel to the fuel tank or
1. Read and observe the entire
service the fuel system while the
product label before using any
UV is near open flames, sparks
chemical. Always know what type
or where someone is smoking.
of chemical is being used and
Gasoline vapor is heavier than air
whether it is poisonous and or
and it collects in low areas, and is
flammable.
more easily ignited than liquid
2. Do not use more than one type of
gasoline.
4. Allow the engine to cool cleaning solvent at a time. If
mixing chemicals is required,
completely before working on any
fuel system component. measure the proper amounts
according to the manufacturer.
5. Do not store gasoline in glass
3. Work in a well-ventilated area.
containers. If the glass breaks, a
4. Wear chemical resistant gloves.
serious explosion or fire may
5. Wear safety glasses
occur.
6. Wash hands and arms thoroughly
6. Immediately wipe up spilled gas
after cleaning parts.
with rags. Store the rags in a
7. Keep chemical products away
metal container with a lid until
from children and pets.
they can be properly disposed of,
8. Wear a vapor respirator if the
or washed.
instructions call for it.
7. Do not pour water onto a
gasoline fire. Water spreads the

1‐5
 General Information
9. Thoroughly clean all oil, grease
and cleaner residue from any part
that must be heated.
10. Use a nylon brush when cleaning
parts. Metal brushes may cause
a spark.
11. When using a parts washer, only
use the solvent recommended by
the manufacturer. Make sure the
parts washer is equipped with a
metal lid that can lower in case of
fire.
Warning Labels
Most manufacturers attach information
and warning labels to the UV. These
labels contain instructions that are
important to safety when operating,
servicing, transporting and storing the
UV. Refer to the owner’s manual for
the description and location of labels.
Order replacement labels from the
manufacturer if they are missing or
damaged.
Serial Numbers
Serial and identification numbers are
stamped on various locations on the
frame, and engine .Record these
numbers in the quick reference data
section in the front of the manual. Have
these numbers available when ordering
parts.
1‐6
Fasteners
Proper fastener selection and
installation is important to ensure the
UV operates as designed and can be
serviced efficiently. The choice of
original equipment fasteners is not
arrived at by chance. Make sure
replacement fasteners meet all the
same requirements as the originals.
Many screws, bolts and studs are
combined with nuts to secure particular
components. Marking will indicate the
strength or hardness. Manufacturers
specify the internal diameter and thread
pitch. The measurement across two flats
on a nut or bolt indicates the wrench
size.
Warning
Do not install fasteners with a
strength classification lower than
what was originally installed by the
manufacturer. Doing so may cause
equipment failure and or damage.
Torque Specifications
The material used in the manufacturing
of the UV may be subjected to uneven
stresses if the fasteners of the various
subassemblies are not installed and
tightened correctly. Fasteners that are
improperly installed or work loose can
cause extensive damage. It is essential
to use an accurate torque wrench as
described in this chapter.
 General Information
Self-Locking Fasteners
Several types of bolts, screws and nuts
incorporate a system that creates
interference between the two fasteners.
Interference is achieved in various
ways. The most common types are the
nylon insert nut and a dry adhesive
coating on the threads of a bolt. Self-
locking fasteners offer greater holding
strength than standard fasteners, which
improves their resistance to vibration. All
self-locking fasteners cannot be reused.
The materials used to from the lock
become distorted after the initial
installation and removal. Discard and
replace self-locking fasteners after
removing them. Do not replace self-
locking fasteners with standard
fasteners.
Washers
The two basic types of washers are flat
washers and lock washers. Flat
washers are simple discs with a hole to
fit a screw or bolt. Lock washers are
used to prevent a fastener from working
loose.
Washers can be used as spacers and
seals, or can help distribute fastener
load and prevent the fastener from
damaging the component. As with
fasteners, when replacing washers
make sure the replacement washers are
of the same design and quality.
Cotter Pins
A cotter pin is a split metal pin inserted
into a hole or slot to prevent a fastener
from loosening. In certain applications,
such as the rear axle on an UTV or
motorcycle, the fastener must be
secured in this way. For these
1‐7
Applications, a cotter pin and castellated
(slotted) nut is used. To use a cotter pin,
first make sure the diameter is correct
for the hole in the fastener. After
correctly tightening the fastener and
aligning the holes, insert the cotter pin
through the hole and bend the ends
over the fastener, unless instructed to
do so, never loosen a tightened fastener
to align the holes. If the holes do not
align, tighten the fastener enough to
achieve alignment. Cotter pins are
available in various diameters and
lengths. Measure the length from the
bottom of the head to the tip of the
shortest pin.
Snap Rings and E-clips
Snap rings (Figure 1) are circular-
shaped metal retaining clips. External
type snap rings are used to retain items
on shafts. Internal type snap rings
secure parts within housing bores. In
some applications, in addition to
securing the component(s), snap rings
of varying thicknesses also determine
endplay. These are usually called
selective snap rings.
The two basic types of snap rings are
machined and stamped snap rings.
Machined snap rings (Figure 2) can be
installed in either direction, because
both faces have sharp edges. Stamped
snap rings (Figure 3) are manufactured
with a sharp and a round edge. When
installing a stamped snap ring in a
thrust application, install the sharp edge
facing away from the part producing the
thrust.
 General Information
Observe the following when installing
snap rings:
1. Remove and install snap rings
with snap rings pliers. Refer to
Basic Tools in this chapter.
2. In some applications. it may be
necessary to replace snap rings
after removing them.
3. Compress or expand snap
rings only enough to install
them. If overly expanded they
lose their retaining ability.
4. After installing a snap ring. Make
sure it seats completely
5. Wear eye protection when
removing and installing snap
rings
1‐8
E-clips are used when it is not practical
to use a snap ring. Remove E-clips with
a flat blade screwdriver by prying
between the shaft and E-clip. To install
an E-clip, center it over the shaft groove
and push or tap it into place.
Shop Supplies
Lubricants and Fluids
Periodic lubrication help ensure a long
service life for any type of equipment.
Using the correct type of lubricant is as
important as performing the lubrication
service. Although in an emergency the
wrong type is better than not using one.
The following section describes the types
of lubricants most often required. Make
sure to follow the recommendation for
lubricant types.
 General Information
Engine Oils
Engine oil for the UV four stroke engine
is classified by two standards: the
American Petroleum Institute (API)
service classification and The Society of
Automotive Engineers (SAE) viscosity
rating Standard classification. The API
and SAE information is on all oil
container labels. Two letters indicate the
API service classification. The number
or sequence of numbers and letter
(10W-40SG for example) is the oil’s
viscosity rating. The API service
classification and the SAE viscosity
index are not indications of oil quality.
The API service classification standards,
the first letter in the classification S
indicates that the oil is for gasoline
engines. The second letter indicates the
standard the oil satisfies. The
classifications are: MA (high friction
applications) and MB (low frication
applications)
Note:
Refer to Engine Oil and Filter in
Chapter Three for further information
on API, SAE classifications.
Always use oil with a classification
recommended by the manufacturer,
using an oil with a different classification
can cause engine damage. Viscosity is
an indication of the oil’s thickness. Thin
oils have a lower number while thick oil
has a higher number. Engine oils fall
into the 5-to50-weight range for single-
grade oils. Most manufactures
recommend multi-grade oil. These oils
perform efficiently across a wide range
of operating conditions. Multi-grade oils
are identified by a W after the first
number, which indicates the low-
temperature viscosity. Engine oils are
most commonly mineral (petroleum)
1‐9
based, but synthetic and semi-synthetic
types are used more frequently. When
selecting engine oil, follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for
type, classification and viscosity.
Greases
Grease is lubricating oil with thickening
agents added to it. The National
Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI)
grades grease. Grades range from
No.000 to No.6, with No.6 being the
thickest. The most typical multipurpose
grease is NLGI No.2. For specific
applications, manufacturers may
recommend water-resistant type grease
or one with an additive such as
molybdenum disulfide (MoS2).
Brake Fluid
Brake fluid is the hydraulic fluid used to
transmit hydraulic pressure (force) to the
wheel brakes. Brake fluid is classified by
the Department of Transportation
(DOT). Current designations for brake
fluid are DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5, this
classification appears on the fluid
container. Each type of brake fluid has
its own definite characteristics. Do not
mix different types of brake fluid as this
may cause brake system failure. DOT 5
brake fluid is silicone based. DOT 5 is
not compatible with other brake fluids
may cause brake system failure. When
adding brake fluid, only use the fluid
recommended by the manufacturer.
Brake fluid will damage any plastic,
painted or plated surfaces it contacts.
Use extreme care when working with
brake fluid and remove any spills
immediately with soap and water.
Hydraulic brake systems require clean
 General Information

and moisture free brake fluid. Never
reuse brake fluid. Keep containers and
reservoirs properly sealed.
Warning
Never put mineral based petroleum
oil into the brake system. Mineral oil
causes rubber parts in the system to
break down which could cause
complete brake failure.
Coolant
Coolant is a mixture of water and
antifreeze used to dissipate engine
heat. Ethylene glycol is the most
common form of antifreeze. Check the
UV Manufacturer’s recommendations
when selecting antifreeze. Most require
one specifically designed for aluminum
engines. There are types of antifreeze
have additives that inhibit corrosion.
Only mix antifreeze with distilled water.
Impurities in tap water may damage
internal cooling system passages.
Cleaners, Degreasers
and Solvents
as it may damage finishes. Most
solvents are designed to be used with a
parts washing cabinet for individual
component cleaning. For safety, use
only nonflammable or high flash point
solvents.
Gasket Sealant
Sealant is used in combination with a
gasket or seal. In other applications,
such as between crankcase halves, only
a sealant is used. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation when
using a sealant. Use extreme care when
choosing a different sealant based on its
resistance to heat, various fluids and its
sealing capabilities.
Gasket Remover
Aerosol gasket remover can help
remove stubborn gaskets. This product
can speed up the removal process and
prevent damage to the mating surface
that may be caused by using a scraping
tool. Most of these types of products are
very caustic. Follow the gasket remover
manufacturer’s instructions for use.

Many chemicals are available to remove

oil, grease and other residue from the
UV. Before using cleaning solvents,
consider how they will be used and
disposed of, particularly if they are not
water-soluble. Local ordinances may
restrict types of cleaning chemicals.
Refer to Safer in this chapter. Use brake
parts cleaner for brake system
components. Brake parts cleaner leaves
no residue. Electrical contact cleaner is
a powerful solvent used to remove fuel
deposits and varnish from fuel system
components. Use this cleaner carefully,

1‐10
 General Information
Thread locking
Compound
A thread locking compound is a fluid
applied to the threads of fasteners. After
tightening the fastener, the fluid dries
and becomes a solid filler between the
threads. This makes it difficult for the
fastener to work loose from vibration or
heat expansion and contraction. Use
thread locking compound sparingly.
Excess fluid can run into adjoining parts.
Caution
Thread locking compounds are
anaerobic and will stress, crack and
damage most plastics. Use caution
when using these products in areas
where there are plastic components.
Thread locking compounds are available
in a wide range of compounds for
various strengths, temperature and
repair applications. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendations
regarding compound selection.
Basic Tools
Most of the procedures in this manual
can be carried out with basic hand tools
and test equipment familiar to the home
mechanic. Always use the correct tools
for the job. Keep tools organized and
clean. Store them in a tool chest with
related tools organized together.
Quality tools are essential. The best are
constructed of high-strength alloy steel.
These tools are light, easy to use and
resistant to wear. Their working surface
is devoid of sharp edges and carefully
polished. They have an easy-to-clean
finish and are comfortable to use.
1‐11
Quality tools are a good investment.
Some of the procedures in this manual
specify special tools. In many cases the
tools is illustrated in use. Those with a
large tool kit may be able to perform the
jobs, however, in some cases, the
specialized equipment or expertise may
make it impractical for the home
mechanic to attempt the procedure.
When necessary, such operations are
recommended to have a dealership or
specialist perform the task. It may be
less expensive to have a professional
perform these jobs, especially when
considering the cost of equipment.
When purchasing tools to perform the
procedures covered in this manual,
consider the tool’s potential frequency of
use. If a tool kit is just now being
started, consider purchasing a basic tool
set from a quality tool supplier and they
may offer substantial savings when
complicated, specialized tools need to
be added.
Screwdrivers
Screwdrivers of various lengths and
types are mandatory for the simplest
tool kit. The two basic types are the
slotted tip (flat blade) and the Phillips tip.
These are available in sets that often
include an assortment of tip size and
shaft lengths. As with all tools, use a
screwdriver designed for the job. Make
sure the tool fits the size of the fastener.
Use them only for driving screws. Never
use a screwdriver for prying or chiseling
metal. Repair or replace worn or
damaged screwdrivers. A worn tip may
damage the fastener, making it difficult
to remove.
Phillips-head screws are often damaged
by incorrectly fitting screwdrivers.
 General Information
Quality Phillips screwdrivers are
manufactured with their crosshead tip
machined to Phillips Screw Company
specifications. Poor quality or damaged
Phillips screwdrivers can back out and
round over the screw head. Weak or
soft screw materials can make removal
more difficult. The best type of
screwdriver to use on Phillips screw is
the ACR Phillips II screwdriver, patented
by the horizontal anti-cam out ribs found
on the driving faces or flutes of the
screwdriver’s tip (figure 4). ACR Phillips
II screwdrivers were designed as part of
a manufacturing drive system to be
used with ACR Phillips II screws, but
they work well. Tool suppliers offer ACR
Phillips II screwdrivers in different Tip
size and interchangeable bits to fit
screwdriver bit holders.
Note
Another way to prevent the
screwdriver from rounding out the
head of the screw is to apply valve
grinding compound onto the tip. After
loosening or tightening the screw,
clean the screw recess to prevent
engine oil contamination.
1‐12
Wrenches
Open-end, box-end and combination
wrenches (figure 5) are available in a
variety of types and sizes.
The box-end wrench is an excellent tool
because it grips the fastener on all
sides. This reduces the chance of the
tool slipping. The box-end wrench is
designed with either a 6 or 12-point
opening. For stubborn or damaged
fasteners, the 6-point provides superior
holding because it contacts the fastener
across a wider area at all six edges. For
general use, the 12-point works well. It
allows the wrench to be removed and
reinstalled without moving the handle
over such a wide area.
An open-end wrench is fast and works
best in areas with limited access. It
contacts the fastener at only two points
and is subject to slipping if under heavy
force, or if the tool or fastener is worn. A
box-end wrench is preferred in most
instances, especially when braking
loose and applying the final tightness to
a fastener.
The combination wrench has a box-end
on one end and an open-end on the
other. This combination makes it a
convenient tool.
 General Information
Adjustable Wrenches
An adjustable wrench or Crescent
wrench (Figure 6) can fit nearly any nut
or bolt head that has clear access
around its entire perimeter. An
adjustable wrench is best used as a
backup wrench to keep a large nut or
bolt from turning while the other end is
being loosened or tightened with a box-
end or socket wrench.
Adjustable wrenches contact the
fastener at only two points, which makes
them more subject to slipping off the
fastener. Because one jaw is adjustable
and may become loose, this
shortcoming is aggravated. Make
certain the solid jaw is the one
transmitting the force.
1‐13
Socket Wrenches,
Ratchets and Handles
Sockets that attach to a ratchet handle
(Figure 7) are available with 6-point or
12-point openings (Figure 8) and
different drive sizes. The drive size
indicates the size of the square hole that
accepts the ratchet handle. The number
stamped on the socket is the size of the
work area and must match the fastener
head. As with wrenches, a 6-point
provides superior-holding ability. While a
12-point socket needs to be moved only
half as for to reposition it on the
fastener. Sockets are designated for
either hand or impact use. Impact
sockets are made of thicker material for
more durability. Compare the size and
wall thickness of a 19-mm hand socket
(Figure 9) (A) and the 19-mm impact
socket (B). Use impact sockets when
using an impact driver or air tools. Use
hand sockets with hand-driven
attachments.
 General Information

Impact Drivers

An impact driver provides extra force for

removing fasteners by converting the
impact of a hammer into a turning
motion. This makes it possible to
remove stubborn fasteners without
damaging them. Impact drivers and
interchangeable bit (Figure 10) are
available from most tool suppliers.
When using a socket with an impact
driver, make sure the socket is designed
for impact use. Refer to Socket
Wrenches, Ratchets and handles in this
section.

WARNING
Do not use hand sockets with air or
impact tools because they may
shatter and cause injury. Always
wear eye protection when using air or
impact tools.
WARNING
Do not use hand sockets with air or
Various handles are available for impact tool because they may shatter
sockets. Use the speed handle for fast and cause injury. Always wear eye
operation. Flexible ratchet heads in protection when using air or impact
varying lengths allow the socket to be tools.
turned with varying force and at odd
angles. Extension bars allow the socket
to reach difficult areas. The ratchet is
the most versatile. It allows the user to
install or remove the nut without
removing the socket. Sockets combined
with any number of drivers make them
the most convenient tool for fastener
removal and installation.

1‐14
 General Information

Allen Wrenches
Use Allen or setscrew wrenches (Figure
11) on fasteners with hexagonal
recesses in the fastener head. These
wrenches are available in L-shaped
bar, Socket and T-handle types. A
metric set is required when working on
most UTV’s. Allen bolts are sometimes
called socket bolts.

Torque Adapters
Torque adapters or extensions extend
or reduce the reach of a torque wrench.
The torque adapter,(Figure 13), is used
to tighten a fastener that cannot be
reached because of the size of the
torque wrench head, drive, and socket.
If a torque adapter changes the effective
lever length the torque reading on the
wrench will not equal the actual torque
applied to the fastener. It is necessary to
Torque Wrenches calculate the torque setting on the
wrench to compensate for the change of
Use a torque wrench with a socket, lever length. When using a torque
torque adapter or similar extension to adapter at a right angle to the drive
tighten a fastener to a measured torque. head, calculation is not required,
Torque wrenches come in several drive because the effective length has not
sizes (1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4) and have changed.
various methods of reading the torque
value. The drive size indicates the size
of the square drive that accepts the
socket, adapter or extension. Common
methods of reading the torque value are
the deflecting beam, the dial indicator
and the audible click (Figure 12). A
torque wrench is a precision tool that
must be properly cared for to remain
accurate. Store torque wrenches in their
case or separate padded drawers within
a toolbox. Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions for their care and
calibration.

1‐15
 General Information

Pliers
Snap Ring Pliers
Pliers come in a wide range of types and
sizes. Pliers are useful for holding, Snap ring pliers are specialized pliers
cutting, bending, and crimping. Do not
with tips that fit into the ends of snap
use them to turn fasteners. Figure 15
and Figure 16 show several types of rings to remove and install them. Snap
useful pliers. Each design has a ring pliers (Figure 17) are available with
specialized function. Slip-joint pliers are a fixed action. They come in three
general purpose pliers used for gripping styles, internal, external and convertible.
and bending. Diagonal cutting pliers are The convertible works on both internal
needed to cut wire and can be used to and external snap rings. They have
remove cotter pins. Use needle nose
fixed tips or interchangeable ones of
pliers to hold or bend small objects.
Locking pliers (Figure 16), sometimes different sizes and angles. For general
called Vise- Grips, are used to hold use, select a convertible type with
objects very tightly. They have many interchangeable tips (Figure17).
uses ranging from holding two parts
together, to gripping the end of a broken
stud. Use caution when using locking
pliers, as the sharp jaws will damage the
objects they hold.

WARNING
Snap rings can slip and fly off when
removing and installing them. The
tips of the pliers may also break off.
Always wear eye protection when
using snap ring pliers.

1‐16
 General Information
Hammers
Various types of hammers are
available to fit a number of
applications. Use a ball-peen hammer
to strike another tool, such as a punch
or chisel. Use soft-faced hammers
when a metal object must be struck
without damaging it. Never use a
metal-faced hammer on engine and
suspension components because
damage occurs in most cases. Always
wear eye protection when using
hammers. Make sure the hammer face
is in good condition and the handle is
not cracked. Select the correct hammer
for the job and make sure to strike the
object squarely. Do not use the handle
or the side of the hammer to strike an
object.
Ignition Grounding Tool
Some test procedures require turning
the engine over without starting it. To
prevent damage to the ignition system
from excessive resistance or the
possibility of fuel vapor being ignited by
an open spark, remove the spark plug
cap and ground it directly to a good
engine ground with the tool shown in
(Figure 18).
1‐17
Make the tool shown from a No.6 screw
and nut, two washers, length of tubing,
alligator clip, electrical eyelet and a
length of wire.
Precision Measuring
Tools
The ability to accurately measure
components is essential to perform
many of the procedures described in
this manual. Equipment is manufactured
to close tolerances, and obtaining
consistently accurate measurements is
essential to determine which
components require replacement or
further service. Each type of measuring
instrument is designed to measure a
dimension with a certain degree of
accuracy and within a certain range.
When selecting the measuring tool,
make sure it is applicable to the task. As
with all tools, measuring tools provide
the best results if cared for properly.
Improper use can damage the tool and
cause inaccurate results. If any
measurement is questionable, verify the
measurement using another tool.
A standard gauge is usually provided
with micrometers to check accuracy and
calibrate the tool if necessary. Precision
measurements can vary according to
the experience of the person performing
the procedure. Accurate results are only
possible if the mechanic possesses a
feel for using the tool. Heavy-handed
use of measuring tools produces less
accurate results. Hold the tool gently by
the fingertips to easily feel the point at
which the tool contacts the object. This
feel for the equipment produces more
accurate measurements and reduces
the risk of damaging the tool or
component.
 General Information
Refer to the following sections for
specific measuring tools.
Feeler Gauge
Use feeler or thickness gauges
(Figure19) for measuring the distance
between two surfaces. A feeler gauge
set consists of an assortment of steel
strips of graduated thickness. Each
blade is marked with its thickness.
Blades can be of various lengths and
angles for different procedures. A
common use for a feeler gauge is to
measure valve clearance. Use wire
(round) type gauges to measure spark
plug gap.
Calipers
Calipers (Figure 20) are excellent tools
for obtaining inside, outside and depth
measurements. Although not as precise
as a micrometer, they allow reasonable
precision, typically to within 0.05 mm
(0.001 in.). Most calipers have a range
up to 150 mm (6 in.).
1‐18
Calipers are available in dial, Vernier or
digital versions. Dial calipers have a dial
readout that provides convenient
reading. Vernier calipers have marked
scales that must be compared to
determine the measurement. The digital
caliper uses a liquid-crystal display
(LCD) to show the measurement.
Properly maintain the measuring
surfaces of the caliper. There must not
be any dirt or burrs between the tool and
the object being measured. Never force
the caliper to close around an object.
Close the caliper around the highest
point so it can be removed with a slight
drag. Some calipers require calibration.
Always refer to the manufacturer’s
instructions when using a new or
unfamiliar caliper.
The fixed scale is marked in l-mm
increments. Ten individual lines on the
fixed scale equal 1 cm. The movable
scale is marked in 0.05 mm (hundredth)
increments. To obtain a reading,
establish the first number by the location
of the 0 line on the movable scale in
relation to the first line to the left on the
fixed scale. is 10 mm. To determine the
next number, note which of the lines on
the movable scale align with a mark on
the fixed scale. A number of lines will
seem close, but only one will align
exactly.
 General Information

Micrometers
A micrometer is an instrument designed
for linear measurement using the
decimal divisions of the inch or meter
(Figure 22). While there are many types
and styles of micrometers, most of the
procedures in this manual call for an
outside micrometer. Use the outside
micrometer to measure the outside
diameter of cylindrical forms and the
When reading a micrometer, numbers
thickness of materials.
are taken from different scales and
added together. The following sections
describe how to adjust, care for and
DECIMAL PLACEVALUES read the measurements of various types
of outside micrometers. For accurate
0.1 Indicates 1/10 (one tenth of an inch results, properly maintain the measuring
or millimeter) 0.01 Indicates 1/100 (one surfaces of the micrometer. There
cannot be any dirt or burrs between the
one-hundredth of an inch or millimeter)
tool and the measured object. Never
0.1 Indicates 1/1000 (one one- force the micrometer to close around an
thousandth of an inch or millimeter). object. Close the micrometer around the
highest point so it can be removed with
a slight drag.

A micrometer’s size indicates the

minimum and maximum size of a part
that it can measure. The usual sizes
(Figure 23) are 0-25mm (0-1 in.), 25-50
mm (1-2 in.), 50-75 mm (2-3 in.) and75-
100mm (3-4 in). Micrometers that cover
a wider range of measurements are
available. These use a large frame with
interchangeable anvils of various
lengths. This type of micrometer offers a
cost savings, but its overall size may
make it less convenient.

1‐20
 General Information
Adjustment
Before using a micrometer, check its
adjustment as follows:
Clean the anvil and spindle faces.
To check a 0-1 in. or 0-25 mm
micrometer.
Turn the thimble until the spindle
contacts the anvil. If the micrometer has
a ratchet stop, use it to ensure that the
proper amount of pressure is applied.
If the adjustment is correct, the 0 mark
on the thimble will align exactly with the
0 mark on the sleeve line. If the marks
do not align, the micrometer is out of
adjustment.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to
adjust the micrometer.
To check a micrometer larger than 1 in.
or 25 mm use the standard gauge
supplied by the manufacturer. A
standard gauge is a steel block, disc or
rod that is machined to an exact size.
Place the standard gauge between the
spindle and anvil, and measure its
outside diameter or length. If the
micrometer has a ratchet stop, use it to
ensure that the proper amount of
pressure is applied.
If the adjustment is correct, the 0
mark on the thimble will align
exactly with the 0 mark on the
sleeve line. If the marks do not
align, the micrometer is out of
adjustment.
Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions to adjust the
micrometer.
1‐20
Care
Micrometers are precision instruments.
They must be used and maintained with
great care. Note the following:
1. Store micrometers in their
provided case or separate
padded drawers in a toolbox.
2. When in storage, make sure the
spindle and anvil faces do not
contact each other or another
object. If they do, temperature
changes can cause corrosion that
will damage the contact faces.
3. Do not clean a micrometer with
compressed air. Dirt forced into
the tool will cause wear.
4. Lubricate micrometers with
WD- 40 to prevent corrosion.
Metric Micrometer
The standard metric micrometer
(Figure 24) is accurate to one one-
hundredth of a millimeter (0.01 mm). The
sleeve line is graduated in millimeter and
half millimeter increments. The marks on
the upper half of the sleeve line equal
1.00 mm. Each fifth mark above the
sleeve line is identified with a number.
The number sequence depends on the
size of the micrometer. A 0-25 mm
micrometer, for example, will have
sleeve marks numbered 0 through 25 in
5 mm increments. This numbering
sequence continues with larger
micrometers. On all metric micrometers,
each mark on the lower half of the
sleeve equals 0.50 mm.
 General Information

Standard Inch
Micrometer
The standard inch micrometer (Figure
26) is accurate to one-thousandth of an
inch or 0.001. The sleeve is marked in
0.25 in. increments. Every fourth
sleeve mark is numbered
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9. These numbers
indicate 0.100, 0.200, 0.300, and soon.
When reading a metric micrometer, add
the number of millimeters and half- The tapered end of the thimble has 25
millimeters on the sleeve line to the lines marked around it. Each mark
number of one one-hundredth equals 0.001 in. One complete turn of
millimeters on the thimble. Perform the the thimble will align its zero mark with
following steps while referring to the first mark on the sleeve or 0.025 in.
(Figure 25)

Read the upper half of the sleeve line

and count the number of lines visible.
See if the half millimeter line is visible on
the lower sleeve line. If so, add 0.50mm
to the reading in step 1
Read the thimble mark that aligns with
the sleeve line. Each thimble mark
equals 0.01mm.
Add the readings from steps 1-3. To read a standard inch micrometer,
perform the following steps and refer to
(Figure 27)

1. Read the sleeve and find the

largest number.

1‐21
 General Information
2. Count the number of lines
between the numbered sleeve
mark and the edge of the thimble.
Each sleeve mark equals 0.025
in.
3. Read the thimble mark that
aligns with the sleeve line. Each
thimble mark equals 0.01in
4. Add the readings from Steps1-3.
Telescoping and Small
Bore Gauges
Use telescoping gauges (Figure 28)
and small bore gauges (Figure 29) to
measure bores. Neither gauge has a
scale for direct readings. Use an outside
micrometer to determine the reading.
1‐22
To use a telescoping gauge, select the
correct size gauge for the bore.
Compress the movable post and,
carefully insert the gauge into the bore.
Carefully move the gauge in the bore to
make sure it is centered. Tighten the
knurled end of the gauge to hold the
movable post in position. Remove the
gauge and measure the length of the
posts. Telescoping gauges are typically
used to measure cylinder bores. To use
a small bore gauge, select the correct
size gauge for the bore. Carefully insert
the gauge into the bore. Tighten the
knurled end of the gauge to carefully
expand the gauge fingers to the limit
within the bore. Do not over tighten the
gauge because there is no built-in
release. Excessive tightening can
damage the bore surface and damage
the tool. Remove the gauge and
measure the outside dimension (Figure
30). Small bore gauges are typically
used to measure valve guides.
 General Information

Dial Indicator
A dial indicator (Figure 31) is a gauge
with a dial face and needle used to
measure variations in dimensions and
movements. Measuring brake rotor run
out is a typical use for a dial indicator.
Dial indicators are available in various
ranges and graduations and with three
basic types of mounting bases:
magnetic (B. Figure 31). Clamp, or
screw-in stud. When purchasing a dial
indicator, select one with a continuous Compression Gauge
dial (A, Figure 31). Cylinder Bore
Gauge. A compression gauge (Figure 33)
measures combustion chamber
(cylinder) pressure, usually in PSI or
kg/2
cm. The gauge adapter is either
Inserted or screwed into the spark plug
hole to obtain the reading. Disable the
engine so it does not start and hold the
throttle in the wide-open position when
performing a compression test. An
engine that does not have adequate
compression cannot be properly tuned.
Refer to Chapter Three.

A cylinder bore gauge is similar to a dial

indicator. The gauge set shown in
(Figure 32) consists of a dial indicator,
handle, and different length adapters
(anvils) to fit the gauge to various bore
sizes. The bore gauge is used to
measure bore size, taper and out-of-
round. When using a bore gauge, follow
the manufacturer’s instructions.

1‐23
 General Information
Multi meter
A multi meter (Figure 34) is an
essential tool for electrical system
diagnosis. The voltage function
indicates the voltage applied or
available to various electrical
components. The ohmmeter function
tests circuits for continuity, or lack of
continuity, and measures the resistance
of a circuit. Some manufacturer’s
specifications for electrical components
are based on results using a specific
test meter. Results may vary if using a
meter not recommended by the
manufacturer. Such requirements are
noted when applicable.
Ohmmeter (analog) calibration
Each time an analog ohmmeter is used
or the scale is changed, the ohmmeter
must be calibrated. Digital ohmmeters
do not require calibration.
1. Make sure the meter battery is in
good condition.
2. Make sure the meter probes are in
good condition.
3. Touch the two probes together and
observe the needle location on the
ohms scale. The needle must align
with the 0 mark to obtain accurate
measurements.
1‐24
4. If necessary, rotate the meter ohms
adjust knob until the needle and 0
mark align.
Electrical System
Fundamentals
A thorough study of the many types of
electrical systems used in today’s UTV’s
is beyond the scope of this manual.
However, a basic understanding of
electrical basics is necessary to perform
simple diagnostic tests. Refer to
Electrical Testing in Chapter Two for
typical test procedures and equipment.
Refer to Chapter Ten for specific system
test procedures.
Voltage
Voltage is the electrical potential or
pressure in an electrical circuit and is
expressed in volts. The more pressure
(voltage) in a circuit the more work can
be performed.
Direct current (DC) voltage means the
electricity flows in one direction. All
circuits powered by a battery are DC
circuits.
Alternating current (AC) means the
electricity flows in one direction
momentarily and then switches to the
opposite direction. Alternator output is
an example of AC voltage. This voltage
must be changed or rectified to direct
current to operate in a battery powered
system.
 General Information
Resistance
Resistance is the opposition to the flow of
electricity within a circuit or component and
is measured in ohms. Resistance causes a
reduction in available current and voltage.
Resistance is measured in an inactive
circuit with an ohmmeter. The ohmmeter
sends a small amount of current into the
circuit and measures how difficult it is to
push the current through the circuit. An
ohmmeter, although useful, is not always a
good indicator of a circuit’s actual ability
under operating conditions. This is
because of the low voltage (6-9 volts) the
meter uses to test the circuit. The voltage
in an ignition coil secondary winding can
be several thousand volts. Such high
voltage can cause the coil to malfunction,
even though it tests acceptable during a
resistance test. Resistance generally
Increases with temperature. Perform all
testing with the circuit or component at
room temperature. Resistance tests
performed at high temperatures may
indicate high resistance readings and
cause unnecessary replacement of a
component
Amperage
Amperage is the unit of measurement
for the amount of current within a circuit.
Current is the actual flow of electricity.
The higher the current, the more work
can be performed up to a given point. If
the current flow exceeds the circuit, it
will damage the system.
1‐25
Basic Service Methods
Most of the procedures in this manual
are straightforward and can be
performed by anyone reasonably
competent with tools. However, consider
personal capabilities carefully before
attempting any operation involving major
disassembly.
1. Front, in this manual, refers to
the front of the UV, The front
of any component is the end
closest to the front the UV.
The left and right sides refer to
the position of the parts as
viewed by the rider sitting on
the seat facing forward.
2. Whenever servicing an engine or
suspension component, secure
the UV in a safe manner.
3. Tag all similar parts for location
and mark all mating parts for
position. Record the number and
thickness of any shims when
removing them. Identify parts by
placing them in sealed and
labeled plastic sandwich bags.
4. Tag disconnected wires and
connectors with masking tape
and a marking pen. Do not rely
on memory alone.
5. Protect finished surfaces from
physical damage or corrosion.
Keep gasoline and other
chemicals off painted surfaces.
6. Use penetrating oil on frozen or
tight bolts. Avoid using heat
 General Information
Where possible. Heat can
warp, melt or affect the temper
of parts. Heat also damages
the finish of paint and plastics.
7. When a part is a press fit or
requires a special tool to
remove, the information or type
of tool is identified in the text.
Otherwise, if a part is difficult to
remove or install, determine the
cause before proceeding.
8. To prevent objects or debris
from falling into the engine cover
all openings.
9. Read each procedure thoroughly
and compare the illustrations to
the actual components before
starting the procedure.
10. Recommendations are
occasionally made to refer
service to a dealership or
specialist. In these cases, the
work can be performed more
economically by the specialist
than by the home mechanic.
11. The term replaces means to
discard a defective part and
replace it with a new part.
Overhaul means to remove,
disassemble, inspect,
measure, repair and/or replace
parts as required to recondition
an assembly.
12. Some operations require using a
hydraulic press. If a press is not
1‐26
available, have these operations
performed by a shop equipped
with the necessary equipment.
Do not use makeshift equipment
that may damage the UV.
13. Repairs are much faster and
easier if the UV is clean before
starting work. Degrease the
UV with a commercial
degreaser; follow the directions
on the container for the best
results. Clean all parts with
cleaning solvent when
removing them.
CAUTION
Do not direct high pressure water
at steering bearings, fuel hoses,
wheel bearings, suspension and
electrical components. Water may
force grease out of the bearings
and possibly damage the seals.
14. If special tools are required,
have them available before
starting the procedure. When
special tools are required, they
are described at the beginning of
the procedure.
15. Make diagrams of similar-
appearing parts. For instance,
crankcase bolts are often not the
same lengths. Do not rely on
memory alone. Carefully laid out
parts can become disturbed,
making it difficult to reassemble
the components correctly.
16. Make sure all shims and
washers are reinstalled in the
same location and position.
 General Information

17. Whenever rotating parts contact

a stationary part, look for a shim
or washer.
18. Use new gaskets if there is any
doubt about the condition of old
ones.
19. If using self-locking fasteners,
replace them with new ones. Do
not install standard fasteners in
place of self-locking ones.
20. Use grease to hold small parts in
place if they tend to fall out
during assembly. Do not apply
grease to electrical or brake
components.
Removing Broken
Fasteners
If the head breaks off a screw or bolt,
several methods are available for
removing the remaining portion. If a
large portion of the remainder projects
out, try gripping it with locking pliers. If
the projecting portion is too small, file it
to fit a wrench or cut a slot in it to fit a
screwdriver.
If the head breaks off flush, use a screw
extractor. To do this, center punch the
exact center of the remaining portion of
the screw or bolt. Drill a small hole in the
screw and tap the extractor into the
hole. Back the screw out with a wrench
on the extractor (Figure36)

Removing Frozen
Fasteners

If a fastener cannot be removed, several

methods may be used to loosen it. First,
apply a penetrating fluid. Apply it
liberally and let it penetrate for 10-15
minutes. Rap the fastener several times
with a small hammer. Do not hit it hard
enough to cause damage. Reapply the
penetrating fluid if necessary. For frozen
screws, apply penetrating fluid as
described, the insert a screwdriver in the
slot and rap the top of the screwdriver
with a hammer. This loosens the rust so
the screw can be removed in the normal
way. If the screw head is too damaged
to use this method, grip the head with
locking pliers and twist the screw out.
Avoid applying heat unless specifically
instructed. Heat may melt, warp or
remove the temper from parts.

1‐27
 General Information
Stud
Removal/Installation
A stud removal tool (Figure 38) is
available from most tool suppliers. This
tool makes the removal and installation
of studs easier. If one is not available,
thread two nuts onto the stud and
tighten them against each other.
Remove the stud by turning the lower
nut (Figure 39).
Removing Hoses
When removing stubborn hoses, do not
exert excessive force on the hose or
fitting. Remove the hose clamp and
carefully insert a small screwdriver or
pick tool between the fitting and hose.
Apply a spray lubricant under the hose
and carefully twist the hose off the
fitting. Clean the fitting of any corrosion
or rubber hose material with a wire
1‐28
brush. Clean the inside of the hose
thoroughly. Do not use any lubricant
when installing the hose. Lubricant may
allow the hose to come off the fitting,
even with the clamp secure.
Bearings
Bearings are used in the engine and
transmission assembly to reduce power
loss, heat and noise resulting from
friction. Because bearings are precision
parts, they must be maintained with
proper lubrication and maintenance. If a
bearing is damaged, replace it
immediately. When installing a new
bearing, take care to prevent damaging
it. Bearing replacement procedures are
included in the individual chapters where
applicable; however. Use the following
sections as a guideline.
Note
Unless otherwise specified, install
bearings with the manufacturer’s
mark or number facing outward.
 General Information

wooden or aluminum spacer (Figure41).

Removing Bearings
While bearing are normally removed
only when damaged, there may be
times when it is necessary to remove a
bearing that is in good condition.
However, improper bearing removal will
damage the bearing and possibly the
shaft or case.
Note the following when removing
bearings:

1. When using a puller to remove a

bearing from a shaft, take care that
the shaft is not damaged. Always
place a piece of metal between the
end of the shaft and the puller screw.
See (Figure40).
If only the outer race is supported,
pressure applied against the balls or the
inner race will damage them.
Always make sure the press arm
(Figure 42) aligns with the center of the
shaft. If the arm is not centered, it may
damage the bearing or the shaft.

2. When using a hammer to remove a

bearing from a shaft. Do not strike
the hammer directly against the The moment the shaft is free of the
shaft. Instead, use a brass or bearing, it drops to the floor. Secure or
aluminum rod between the hammer hold the shaft to prevent it from falling.
and shaft (Figure 41) and make sure
to support both bearing races with
wooden blocks as shown.

3. The ideal method of bearing removal

is with a hydraulic press. Note the
following when using a press.

Always support the inner and outer

bearing races with a suitable size

1‐29
 General Information

Installation
1. When installing a bearing in a
housing, apply pressure to the outer
bearing race (Figure 43). When
installing a bearing on a shaft, apply
pressure to the inner bearing race
(Figure44).

4. Step 1 describes how to install a

2. When installing a bearing as
described in Step 1, some type of
driver is required. Never strike the
When installing a bearing in a
housing, apply pressure to the outer
bearing race (Figure 43). When
installing a bearing on a shaft, apply
pressure to the inner bearing race
(Figure44).
bearing in a case half or over a shaft
however, when installing a bearing
over a shaft and into the housing at
the same time; a tight fit is required
for both outer and inner bearing
races. In this situation, install a
spacer underneath the driver tool so
that pressure is applied evenly
across both races. See (Figure 46).
If the outer race is not supported as
shown, the balls will push against the
outer bearing race and damage it.

3. When installing a bearing, use a

piece of pipe or a driver with a
diameter that matches the
bearing inner race. (Figure 45)
Shows the correct way to use a
driver and hammer to install a
bearing.

1‐30
 General Information
Interference Fit
Follow this procedure when installing a
bearing over a shaft. When a tight fit is
required, the bearing inside diameter is
smaller than the shaft. Driving the
bearing on the shaft using normal
methods may cause bearing damage.
Instead, heat the bearing before
installation. Be careful not to overheat
the bearing.
Follow this step when installing a
bearing in a housing. Bearings are
general installed in a housing with a
slight interference fit Driving the bearing
into the housing using normal methods
may damage the housing or cause
bearing damage. Instead, heat the
housing before the bearing is installed.
Caution
Before heating the housing in this
procedure, wash the housing
thoroughly with detergent and water.
Rinse and rewash the cases as
required to remove all traces of oil
and other chemical deposits.
Heat the housing to approximately
100℃ (212°F) in an oven or on a
hot plate.
Caution
Do not heat the housing with a
propane or acetylene torch. Never
bring a flame into contact with the
bearing or housing. The direct heat
will destroy the case will cause
hardening of the bearing and will
likely warp the housing.
1‐31
Remove the housing from the oven or
hot plate, and hold onto the housing with
welding gloves. It is hot! Hold the
housing with the bearing side down and
tap the bearing out. Repeat for all
bearings in the housing.
Before heating the bearing housing,
place the new bearing in a freezer if
possible. Chilling' a bearing slightly
reduces its outside diameter while the
heated bearing housing assembly is
slightly larger due to heat expansion.
This makes bearing installation easier.
Note
Always install bearings with the
manufacturer’s mark or number
facing outward.
While the housing is still hot. Install the
new bearing(s) into the housing. Install
the bearings by hand. if possible. If
necessary, lightly tap the bearing(s) into
the housing with a driver placed on the
outer bearing race (Figure 43). Do not
install new bearings by driving on the
inner-bearing race. Install the bearing(s)
until it seats completely.
 General Information
Seal Replacement
Seals (Figure 47) contain oil, water, and
grease or combustion gasses in a
housing or shaft. Improperly removing a
seal can damage the housing or shaft.
Improperly installing the seal can
damage the seat.
Note the following:
Prying is generally the easiest and most
effective method of removing a seal
from the housing. However, always
place a rag underneath the pry tool to
prevent damage to the housing. Note
the seal’s installed depth or if it is
installed flush.
Pack waterproof grease in the seal lips
before the seal is installed.
In most cases, install seals with the
manufacturer’s numbers or marks facing
out. Install seals with a socket or driver
placed on the outside of the seal.
Drive the seal squarely into the housing
until it is to the correct depth or flush as
noted during removal. Never install a
seal by hitting against the seal with a
hammer.
1‐32
Storage
Several months of non-use can cause a
general deterioration of the UV. This is
especially true in areas of extreme
temperature variations. This
deterioration can be minimized with
careful preparation for storage. A
properly stored UV is much easier to
return to service.
Storage Area Selection
When selecting a storage area, consider
the following:
The storage area must be dry. A heated
area is best, but not necessary. It should
be insulated to minimize extreme
temperature differences.
If the building has large window areas,
mask them to keep sunlight off the UV.
Avoid buildings in the industrial areas
where corrosive emissions may be
present. Avoid areas close to saltwater.
Consider the area’s risk of fire, theft or
vandalism. Check with an insurer
regarding coverage while in storage.
 General Information

for each type of product being

Preparing the UV for
Storage
The amount of preparation a UV should
undergo before storage depends on the
expected length of non-use, storage
area conditions and personal
preference.
Consider the following list the minimum
requirement:
Returning the UV to
used.
7. Place the UV on a work stands
with all the wheels off the
ground.
Cover the UV with old bed
sheets or something similar. Do
not cover it with any plastic
material that will trap moisture.

1. Wash the UV thoroughly. Make

Service
sure all dirt, mud and other
The amount of service required when
debris is removed.
returning a UV to service after storage
2. Start the engine and allow it to
depends on the length of non-use and
reach operating temperature.
storage conditions.
Drain the engine oil regardless
of the riding time since the last Note the following:
service. Fill the engine with the 1. Remove the covers from the
recommended type of oil. intake and exhaust openings.
3. Drain the fuel tank, fuel lines. 2. Service the air filter as described
Remove the spark plug and in Chapter Three.
ground the ignition system with a 3. Inspect the cooling system.
grounding tool as described in Check the drain plug and hose
this chapter. Then pour a connections for leaks.
teaspoon (15-20ml) of engine oil 4. Refill the fuel tank. Turn the fuel
into the cylinder. Place a rag shutoff valve on and check for
over the opening and turn the fuel leaks.
engine over to distribute the oil. 5. Make sure the brakes, clutch,
Remove the grounding tool and throttle and engine stop switch
reinstall the sparkplug. work properly before
4. When the engine has cooled to operating the UV. Evaluate
room temperature, drain the the service intervals to
cooling system drain the coolant determine which areas require
in the coolant reserve tank and service.
all tank lines. 6. If the UV has been in storage for
5. Cover the exhaust and intake longer than four months, change
opening. the engine oil and filter.
6. Apply a protective substance to
the plastic and rubber
components. Make sure to follow
the manufacturer’s instructions

1‐33
 Specifications

General Specifications

Dimensions: Basic Weight:

Overall Length 3,000mm
118.1 in With oil and full fuel tank 749 kg
Overall width 1560mm 1648lbs
61.4 in
Overall Height 2025mm
79.7 in
Seat Height 550mm
21.6 in
Wheelbase 1,950mm
76.8in
Ground Clearance
305mm 12in
Curb to Curb
Turning Radius
3430mm 135in
Engine: Oil Type or Grade:
Type LiquidCooled4- Engine Oil Use only API Service Classification SJ or
stroke Higher and JASO-MA Grade
Single Cylinder, 735cc
Bore 102mm 4.015in

Stroke 90mm 3.543in

Compression Ratio 9.7:1

Single Cylinder, 546cc
Bore 91mm 3.582in

Stroke 84mm 3.307in

Final Gear oil
Compression Ratio 9.5:1 SAE 80 API GL-4 Hypoid Gear oil or 80W90 Gear oil

Starting: Electric Differential Gear oil

Lubrication: Wet Sump SAE 80 API GL-5 Hypoid Gear oil or 80W90 Gear oil
Oil Capacity: Air Filter:
Engine oil 1.90L 2.01Qts
With filter 2.30L 2.43Qts Dry Dual Element
Final Gear Case oil 2.54Qts
Diff Gear case oil 0.35Qts

2-1
 Specifications
Fuel: Fuel Delivery:
Type Unleaded fuel
91Octane or higher Electronic Fuel Injection
Tank Capacity
7.66 US
Gal
Spark Plug: Clutch Type:
Type/Manufacturer
DCPR7E NGK Wet, centrifugal automatic

Spark Plug Gap 0.8-0.9mm

0.031-0.035 in

Transmission: Chassis:

CVT Continuously Variable Frame Type Steel Tube Frame

Transmission (0.7-1.66:1) Toe In 0-10mm 0-0.39in

L-H-N-R-P
Tires: Brakes:
Front Tubeless 25X8-12 Front: Dual Ventilated Hydraulic Disc
Radial
Rear: Dual Ventilated Hydraulic Disc
Rear Tubeless 25X10-12
Radial

Tire Air Pressure Max 10psi

Cold
Suspension: Electrical:
Front: Double Wishbone Ignition System: CDI
Rear: Double Wishbone
Generator System: A.C. Magneto
Front and Rear Shock
Absorber: Battery Type: 12V 60.0 AH
Coil Spring over Oil Dampener
Length: 185mm 7.3in

2-2
 Specifications

Lights: Type Wattage Quantity

Headlight: LED 12V34w 2
Taillight/Brake LED 12V 2.5w 2
Position Light LED 12V 1w 4
Turn Signal LED 12V1.25w 4
Neutral- Reverse LCD screen ,digital
Coolant Temp LCD screen ,Code
Parking Brake LED
Four-Wheel Drive Light LCD
Differential gear lock LCD
screen ,Symbol
display

750 UV Engine Specifications

Service wear
Item Metric Standard Limit
Cylinder Head
Warp Limit 0.03 mm

Cylinder:
Bore size 102.005-102.055mm (4.0159-4.0179 in) 102.10mm 4.0196 in

Measuring 50mm (1.97in)

Point

Camshaft:
Drive Method Chain drive (Left)

2-3
 750 UV Engine Specifications

Service Wear
Item Metric Standard Limit
Cam
Dimensions

Intake “A” 30.06-30.16mm (1.1835-1.1874in) 29.96mm(1.1795in)

“B” 35.69-35.79mm (1.4051-1.4091in) 35.59mm(1.4012in)

Exhaust “A” 30.11-30.21mm (1.1854-1.1894in) 30.01mm(1.1815in)

“B” 36.50-36.60mm (1.4370-1.4409in) 36.40mm(1.4331in)
Camshaft
Run out
limit 0.03mm (0.0012in)

Cam Chain:
Number of links 130
Adjustment Method Automatic

Rocker arm
Inside diameter 12.000-12.018 mm (0.4724-0.4731 in)

Rocker shaft outside

diameter
11.976-11.991 mm (0.4715-0.4721 in)
Arm to shaft
clearance 0.009-0.042 mm (0.0004-0.0079 in)
Valve Dimensions

“A” Head Diameter

IN 29.9-30.1mm (1.1772-1.1850 in)

Ex 31.9-32.1mm (1.2559-1.2638 in)

2-4
 750 UV Engine Specifications

“B” Face Width

IN 2.25 mm (0.0885 in)

EX 2.26 mm (0.0889 in)

“C” Seat Width
IN 0.9-1.1mm (0.0354-0.0433 in) 1.6 mm (0.0630 in)

EX 0.9-1.1 mm (0.0354-0.0433 in) 1.6 mm (0.0630 in)

“D” Margin Thickness
IN 0.85-1.15 mm (0.0335-0.0453 in) 5.945mm

EX 0.85-1.15 mm (0.0335-0.0453 in) (0.2341 in)

Stem Outside
Diameter IN 5.975-5.990 mm (0.2352-0.2358 in) 5.930mm

EX 5.960-5.975 mm (0.2346-0.2352 in) (0.2335 in)

Guide Inside Diameter
IN 6.000-6.012 mm (0.2362-0.2367 in) 6.050 MM

EX 6.000-6.012 mm (0.2362-0.2367 in) (0.2559 in)

Stem to Guide
Clearance
IN 0.010-0.037 mm (0.0004-0.0015 in) 0.08mm (0.0031in)
EX 0.025-0.052 mm (0.0010-0.0020 in) 0.10mm (0.0039in)
Stem Run out Limit 0.01mm (0.0004in)

Valve Seat Width

IN 0.9-1.1 mm (0.0354-0.0433 in)

EX 0.9-1.1 mm (0.0354-0.0433 in)

2-5
 750 UV Engine Specifications

Service Wear
Item Metric Standard Limit

Valve Spring:

Inner Spring

Free Length 32.63mm (1.28in) 31.0mm (1.22in)

IN 36.46mm (1.44in) 34.6mm (1.36in)

EX

Set Length 27.5mm (1.08in)

(Valve Closed)
IN 31.0mm (1.22in)

EX

Compressed 100.0 ~115.7N (22.49 ~ 26.01lb)

pressure (Installed)
IN 120.6 ~138.3N (27.12 ~ 31.09lb)

EX
2.5°/ 1.4 mm
Tilt limit * (2.5°/0.055in)
IN
2.5°/1.6 mm
(2.5°/0.063in)
EX

Both Intake and Exhaust Clockwise

Direction of winding

2-6
 750 UV Engine Specifications

Item Metric Standard Service Wear Limit

Piston:

Piston to Cylinder
Clearance 0.050 ~ 0.070 mm (0.0020 - 0.0028in) 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)

Piston size “D” 101.95 ~ 101.97 mm (4.0138 -4.0146 in)

Measuring point “H” 10 mm (0.394 in)

Piston off-set 1.0 mm (0.0394 in)

Off-set direction Intake side

Piston pin bore

inside diameter 22.002 ~ 22.010 mm (0.8662 ~ 0.8665 in) 22.045 mm(0.8679in)

Piston pin outside

diameter 21.990 ~ 21.995 mm(0.8657 ~ 0.8659 in) 21.971 mm(0.8650in)

Piston Rings:
Top Ring Type Barrel

Dimensions (B×T) 3.8 ×1.2 mm (0.1496×0.0472 in)

End gap (installed) 0.30 ~ 0.45 mm (0.0118 ~ 0.0177 in) 0.70 mm (0.0276 in)

Side clearance
(installed) 0.04 ~ 0.08 mm (0.0016 ~ 0.0031 in) 0.13 mm (0.0051 in)

2-7
 750 UV Engine Specifications

Item Metric Standard Service Wear Limit

2nd ring: Type: Taper

Dimensions (B ×T) 4.0×1.2mm (0.1575X0.0472in)

End gap (installed) 0.30 - 0.45mm (0.0118 -0.0177in) 0.80 mm (0.0315 in)

Side clearance 0.03 - 0.07mm (0.0012 - 0.0028in) 0.13 mm (0.0051 in)

Oil ring:

Dimensions (B×T) 3.4×2.5mm (0.1339×0.0984in)

End gap (installed) 0.20 - 0.70 mm (0.0079 - 0.0276in)

Side clearance 0.06 - 0.15 mm (0.0024 - 0.0059in)

Crankshaft:

Crank width “A” 74.95- 75.00mm (2.9508-2.9528in)

Run out limit C1, C2 0.03 mm (0.0012 in)

Big end side clearance “D” 0.35-0.65mm (0.0138-0.0256in) 1.0 mm (0.0394 in)

Big end radial clearance “E” 0.010 - 0.025mm(0.0004-0.0010in)

2-8
 550 UV Engine Specifications

Item Standard
Engine :
Engine Type Liquid cooled 4-stroke , Water cool
Cylinder arrangement Forward-inclined single cylinder
Displacement 546cm3
Bore x stroke 91 x 84..0mm ( 3.58 X 3.31i in
Compression ratio 9.6:1
Starting system Electric starter
Lubrication system Wet sump

Engine Specifications
Item Standard Limit
Cylinder head
Warp limit * 0.03 mm
' '
* (0.0012 in)

I i

Cylinder
Bore size 91.000 ~ 91.015mm
Measuring point * (3.5827 ~ 3.5833 in)
50 mm (1.97 in}

Cam shaft
Drive method Cam Chain drive (Left)
dimension

2-9
 550 UV Engine Specifications

Intake "A" 32.30~32.20mm

( 1.271~1.268Iin)
"B" 40.88~40.78mm
(1.6094~1.6055in)
Exhaust "A" 32.30-32.30mm
( 1.272~1.268in) ,
"B"' 40.95~40.85mm
(1.6122~1.6083in)

Camshaft run out limit

Cam chain
Number of links 124
Cam chain adjustment method Automatic
Valve spring
Inner spring
Free length
Outside spring IN 42.5mm(1.67in)
EX 42.5mm(1.67in)
Within spring 39.0mm(1.54)
IN
39.0mm(1.54)
EX
Set length (valve closed),
Outside spring IN 36.0mm(1.42in)
EX 36.0mm(1.42in)
Within spring IN 33.0mm(1.30in)
EX 33.0mm(1.30in)

Compressed pressure
(installed)
Outside spring 240.0~260.0N(24.49~26.53)
IN
240.0~260.0N(24.49~26.53)
EX
Within spring
IN 110.0~130.0N(11.22~13.27kg)
EX 110.0~130.0N(11.22~13.27kg)

2-10
 550 UV Engine Specifications

IN EX

Clockwise

Valve Dimensions

Head diameter face width seat width Margin thickness

"A" head diameter IN 39.9- 40.1 mm
(1.5709~1.5787 in)
3 3.9 - 33 .98 mm
EX
(1.3346~1.3378 in)

"B" face width IN 2.25 mrn (0.0900 in)

2 .26 mm
(0.0890in)
EX
0.9~1.1mm 1.6mm
(0.0354~0.0433in) (0.0630in)
"C" seat width IN
0. 9 - 1.1 mm 1.6mrn
(0.0354~0.0433in) (0.0630in)
EX 0.85 - 1.15mm
(0.0335~0.0453in )
"D" margin thickness IN
0.85~1.315mm
(0.0335~0.0453in)
EX
5.975~5.990mm 5.945 mm

(0.2352~0.2358in) (0.2341in)
Stem outside diameter IN
5.960~5.975mm 5.930 mm
(0.2346~0.2352in) (0.2355in)
EX
6.000~6.012mm 6.050mm

Guide inside diameter IN (0.2362~0.2367in) (0.2559in)

6.000~6.012mm 6.050 mm
EX (0.2362~0.2367in) (0.2559in)

2-11
550 UV Engine Specifications

2-12
550 UV Engine Specifications

2-13
 Specifications
Item Metric Standard Service Wear Limit

Balancer:
Balancer drive method Gear

Automatic centrifugal clutch.

Clutch shoe thickness 1.5 mm (0.06 in) 1.0 mm (0.04 in)

Clutch-in revolution 1,900- 2,300 r/min

Clutch-stall revolution 3,350 -3,850 r/min

Axle:
Main axle deflection limit 0.06 mm (0.0024 in)

Drive axle deflection limit 0.06 mm (0.0024 in)

Shifter:
Shifter type Shift drum and guide bar

Fuel Delivery Electronic Fuel Injection

Oil pump
Oil Filter Type Spin on
Oil Pump Type Trochoid
Tip clearance 0.15mm (0.0059in) 0.23 mm (0.0091 in)
Side clearance 0.03 - 0.10mm (0.0012 - 0.0039 in) 0.17 mm (0.0067 in)
Body clearance 0.09 - 0.17mm (0.0035 - 0.0067 in) 0.24 mm (0.0094 in)

Bypass valve
setting pressure 441.0 - 637.0 Kpa (62.7 - 90.6psi)

Oil pressure (Hot) 65 Kpa (9.2 psi)

At 1,550 rpm

Pressure check location Cylinder Head

2-14
 Specifications

Item Metric Service Wear Limit

Standard

Water pump
Type Single-suction centrifugal pump
Reduction ratio 32/31 (1.032)

Shaft drive
Middle gear backlash 0.1 -0.3mm (0.004 - 0.012in)
Final gear backlash 0.1 -0.3mm (0.004 - 0.012in)
Differential gear backlash 0.05 - 0.25 mm(0.00 2 - 0.010 in)

Cooling system
Radiator core
Width 410mm (16.14in)
Height 315mm (12.40in)
Thickness 35mm (1.38in)
Radiator cap opening
pressure 107.9 - 137.3Kpa(15.35 -19.53psi)
Radiator capacity
(including all routes) 2.5L (2.64 US qt)
Coolant reservoir
capacity 0.35L (0.37 US qt)
From low to full level 0.20L (0.21 US qt)

Steering system
Type Rack and pinion

Front suspension
Shock absorber travel 160 mm (6.30 in)
Shock free length 565 mm (22.24 in)
Spring rate 25.7 N/mm (146.8 lb/ in)
Suspension Travel 230mm (9.06 in)

Rear suspension
Shock absorber travel 120mm (4.72 in)
Spring free length 328 mm (12.91 in)
Spring rate 43.2 N/mm (246.5 lbs/in)
Suspension Travel 206 mm (8.11 in )

2-15
 Specifications

Item Metric Service Wear

Standard Limit

Front wheel
Type 6 spoke
Rim size 14 x 7.0
Rim material Alum.
Rim run out limit
Radial 2.0 mm (0.08 in)
Lateral 2.0 mm (0.08 in)

Front wheel
Type 6 spoke
Rim size 14 x 9.0
Rim material Alum
Rim run out limit
Radial 2.0 mm (0.08 in)
Lateral 2.0 mm (0.08 in)

Brake lever and brake

pedal

Accelerator pedal free play 0 mm (0.0 in)

Brake pedal free play 0 mm (0.0 in)
Parking brake cable free play 2 - 3 mm (0.079 - 0.118 in)

Front disc brake

Type Dual Ventilated Hydraulic Disc

Disc outside diameter 200 × 3.5 mm (7.87 × 0.14 in)

×thickness

Pad thickness inner 5.2 mm (0.20 in) 1.5 mm (0.06 in)

Pad thickness outer 5.2 mm (0.20 in) 1.5 mm (0.06 in)

Master cylinder inside 17.4 mm (0.69 in)

diameter

Caliper cylinder inside 32.0 mm (1.26 in)

diameter
Brake fluid type DOT 3

2-16
 Specifications

Service Wear
Item Metric Standard Limit

Rear disc brake

Type Dual Ventilated Hydraulic Disc

Disc outside diameter X 165 ×5.0mm (6.50 × 0.20in)

thickness

Pad thickness inner 5.6mm (0.22in) 1.5 mm (0.06 in)

Pad thickness outer 5.6mm (0.22in) 1.5 mm (0.06 in)

Master cylinder inside 17.4mm (0.69in)

diameter

Caliper cylinder inside 32.0mm (1.26in)

diameter

Brake fluid type DOT 3

2-17
 Specifications

ENGINE TIGHTENING TORQUES

Part to be tightened Part Thread Qty Torque Torque
Name Size Nm Ft-lbs

Cylinder head Bolt 6mm 1 10 7.2

Bolt 9mm 6 45 32.8
Spark plug — 12mm 1 18 13
Cylinder head (exhaust pipe) Stud bolt 8mm 4 15 11
Cylinder head cover Bolt 6mm 17 10 7.2
Tappet cover (exhaust) — 32mm 2 12 8.7
Tappet cover (intake) Bolt 6mm 4 10 7.2
Oil gallery bolt — 6mm 1 07 5.1
Camshaft end cap Bolt 6mm 1 10 7.2
Cylinder Bolt 6mm 2 10 7.2
Bolt 10mm 4 45 32.8
Balancer driven gear Nut 18mm 1 110 80
Cam chain tensioner Bolt 6mm 2 10 7.2
Cam chain tensioner cap Bolt 6mm 1 07 5.1
Timing chain guide (intake side) Bolt 6mm 2 08 5.8
Camshaft sprocket Bolt 7mm 2 20 14
Rocker arm shaft stopper Bolt 6mm 2 10 7.2
Valve adjusting locknut — 6mm 5 14 10
Engine oil drain bolt — 14mm 1 30 22
Oil filter cartridge union bolt — 20mm 1 63 4.6
Oil filter cartridge — 20mm 1 17 12
Oil pipe assembly Bolt 6mm 4 07 5.1
Oil delivery pipe 1 Union Bolt 8mm 2 18 13
Oil delivery pipe 2 Union Bolt 14mm 1 35 25
Oil delivery pipe 3 Union Bolt 10mm 1 20 14
Oil delivery pipe 2 and oil delivery Union bolt 14mm 1 35 25
pipe 3
Relief valve assembly plate Bolt 6mm 2 10 7.2
Oil strainer Bolt 6mm 1 10 7.2
Oil pump assembly Bolt 6mm 3 10 7.2
Oil cooler inlet pipe 1/oil cooler Bolt 6mm 2 07 5.1
outlet pipe 1
Oil cooler inlet pipe 1/oil cooler Bolt 6mm 1 04 5.1
outlet pipe 1 clamp
Oil cooler inlet pipe 2/oil cooler Bolt 6mm 2 07 5.1
outlet pipe 2 clamp
Intake manifold Bolt 6mm 4 10 7.2
Intake manifold screw clamp — 5mm 1 03 2.1

2-18
 Specifications

ENGINE TIGHTENING TORQUES

Part to be Tightened Part Thread Qty Torque Torque Ft
Name Size Nm Lbs
Crankcase Bolt 8mm 3 26 19
Bolt 6mm 14 10 7.2
Bolt 6mm 1 10 7.2
Bearing Housing (clutch housing Bolt 6mm 1 10 7.2
assembly)
Air duct assembly bracket Bolt 6mm 2 14 10
Oil seal (engine cooling fan pulley) Bolt 5mm 2 7 5.1
retainer
Drive belt case Bolt 6mm 9 10 7.2
Drive belt cover Bolt 6mm 14 10 7.2
Engine cooling fan Bolt 6mm 2 7 5.1
Air shroud 1 and air shroud 2 Bolt 6mm 4 10 7.2
Air shroud 2 and A.C. magneto cover Bolt 6mm 4 10 7.2
Engine cooling fan pulley Bolt 10mm 1 70 44
Rotor Retaining Nut (2019+) Nut 22mm 1 160 115
Engine cooling fan air duct assembly Bolt 6mm 1 7 5.1
Stator assembly Screw 6mm 3 7 5.1
Pickup coil Bolt 5mm 2 7 5.1
Stator lead holder Bolt 6mm 2 10 7.2
A.C magneto cover Bolt 6mm 12 10 7.2
Starter clutch Bolt 8mm 3 30 22
Clutch carrier assembly Nut 22mm 1 160 115 stake
Clutch housing assembly Bolt 6mm 9 10 7.2
Bearing Retainer (middle drive shaft) Screw 8mm 4 29 21
Middle drive pinion gear Nut 22mm 1 145 105 stake
Middle drive shaft bearing housing Bolt 8mm 4 32 23
Middle driven pinion gear bearing Nut 60mm 1 110 80 LH
retainer
Universal joint yoke and middle driven Nut 16mm 1 150 110
pinion gear
Middle driven pinion gear bearing Bolt 8mm 4 25 18
Housing
Drive shaft coupling and middle driven Nut 14mm 1 97 70
Shaft
Middle driven shaft bearing retainer Nut 55mm 1 80 58 LH
Primary sheave assembly Nut 16mm 1 120 85
Primary pulley sheave cap Screw 4mm 8 3 2.2
Secondary sheave assembly Nut 16mm 1 100 72
Secondary sheave spring retainer Nut 36mm 1 90 65
Shift Lever cover Bolt 6mm 4 10 7.2
Shift lever 2 assembly Bolt 6mm 1 14 10
Shift drum stopper Bolt 14mm 1 18 13

2-19
 Specifications

ENGINE TIGHTENING TORQUES

Part to be Tightened Part Thread Qty Torque Torque

Name Size Nm Ft Lbs
Shift arm Bolt 6mm 1 14 10
Shift rod locknut (select lever unit) Nut 8mm 1 15 11 LH
Shift rod locknut (shift arm side) Nut 8mm 1 15 11
Select lever unit Bolt 8mm 3 15 11
Plug (right crankcase) Plug 14mm 1 18 13
Water pump assembly Bolt 6mm 2 10 7.2
Water pump housing cover Bolt 6mm 2 12 8.7
Coolant drain bolt Bolt 6mm 1 10 7.2
Coolant inlet joint Bolt 6mm 2 10 7.2
Coolant outlet joint Bolt 6mm 2 10 7.2
Air bleed bolt (coolant outlet joint) Bolt 6mm 1 8 5.9
Coolant reservoir Bolt 6mm 2 8 5.9
Radiator bracket and frame Bolt 6mm 4 8 5.9
Fuel pump Bolt 6mm 2 8 5.9
Fuel tank Bolt 8mm 2 22 16
Muffler stay Bolt 6mm 2 11 8
Muffler and exhaust pipe Bolt 8mm 1 20 14
Muffler bracket and muffler Bolt 8mm 1 20 14
Muffler bracket and frame Bolt 8mm 2 20 14
Muffler damper and muffler Bolt 6mm 1 10 7.2
Muffler damper and frame Bolt 6mm 1 10 7.2
Exhaust pipe Nut 8mm 4 14 10
Air duct assembly 1 Bolt 6mm 2 7 5.1
Air duct assembly 2 and left protector Bolt 6mm 1 7 5.1
Air duct assembly 2 and frame Bolt 6mm 1 7 5.1
Gear position switch Bolt 5mm 2 7 5.1
Thermo switch 1 (cylinder head) — 1/8 1 8 5.8
Thermo switch 3 (radiator) — 18mm 1 28 20
Reverse switch — 10mm 1 20 14
Engine ground lead Bolt 6mm 1 10 7.2
Starter motor and engine Bolt 6mm 2 10 7.2

2-20
 Specifications

CHASSIS TIGHTENING TORQUES

Part to be Tightened Thread Torque Torque
Size Nm Ft Lbs
Rubber connecting bracket 1(or 2) and frame 10mm 60 44
Engine and Rubber connecting bracket 2 (front) 10mm 60 44
6mm 8 5.9
Engine and Rubber connecting bracket 1 (rear) 8mm 22 16
6mm 8 5.9
Rear upper arm and frame 10mm 60 44
Rear lower arm and frame 10mm 60 44
Rear knuckle and rear upper arm 10mm 60 44
Rear knuckle and rear lower arm 10mm 60 44
Rear shock absorber and frame 10mm 60 44
Rear shock absorber and rear lower arm 10mm 60 44
Rear Balancing pole and frame 8mm 22 16
ball head of Rear Balancing pole and Rear Balancing pole 10mm 60 44
ball head of Rear Balancing pole and rear lower arm 10mm 60 44
Differential gear case and frame 10mm 60 44
Differential gear case filler plug 14mm 120 88
Differential gear case drain plug 10mm 60 44
Universal joint yoke and drive pinion gear 14mm 120 88
Differential motor and differential gear case cover 8mm 22 16
Differential gear case cover and differential gear case 8mm 22 16
Rear driving axle gear case and frame 10mm 60 44

Rear driving axle gear case filler plug 20mm 23 17

Rear driving axle gear case drain plug 10mm 20 14
Ring gear bearing housing and final drive gear case 8mm 22 16
10mm 60 44
Ring gear stopper nut 8mm 22 06
Bearing retainer and final gear pinion gear bearing
65mm 170 125
housing
Coupling gear and final drive pinion gear 12mm 80 58
Front upper arm and frame 10mm 60 44
Front lower arm and frame 10mm 60 44
Front shock absorber and frame 10mm 60 44
Front shock absorber and front upper arm 10mm 60 44
Steering shaft assembly and steering Cross member 8mm 22 16
Steering assembly and steering Cross member 8mm 22 16
Steering assembly and frame 10mm 60 44
Steering shaft assembly and frame 8mm 22 16
Steering wheel and steering shaft assembly 12mm 90 66
Steering knuckle and front upper arm 12mm 45 33

2-21
 Specifications

CHASSIS TIGHTENING TORQUE

Part to be Tightened Thread Torque Torque
Size Nm Ft Lbs

Steering knuckle and front lower arm 12mm 45 33

Tie-rod locknut 12mm 90 66
Steering knuckle and tie-rod 12mm 60 44
Front lower arm protector board and front lower arm 6mm 8 5.9
Seat belt and frame 10mm 60 44
Seat belt and ceiling (enclosure) 10mm 60 44
Front wheel and front wheel hub 10mm 60 44
Front wheel hub and constant velocity joint of half shaft 20mm 260 190
Steering knuckle and brake disc guard 6mm 8 5.9
Front brake caliper and front wheel steering knuckle 10mm 60 44
Front brake hose union bolt 10mm 60 44
Front brake hose holder and steering knuckle 6mm 8 5.9
Front brake hose holder and front upper arm 6mm 8 5.9
Front brake hose holder and frame 6mm 8 5.9
Front brake pad holding bolt 8mm 22 16
Front brake disc and front wheel hub 8mm 22 16
Front brake caliper bleed screw 6mm 8 5.9
Rear wheel and rear wheel hub 10mm 60 44
Rear wheel hub and constant velocity joint of half shaft 20mm 260 190
Rear brake hose and frame 6mm 8 5.9
Brake pipe and brake master cylinder 10mm 60 44
Pedal holder assembly and frame 8mm 22 16
Brake master cylinder and pedal holder assembly 8mm 22 16
Secondary brake master cylinder kit stopper bolt 6mm 8 5.9
Brake rod locknut 8mm 22 16
Rear brake disc and brake disc Install seat 6mm 8 5.9
Rear brake pad holding bolt 8mm 22 16
Rear brake caliper and Install seat 10mm 60 44
Rear brake hose union bolt 10mm 60 44
Parking brake case and rear brake caliper 8mm 22 16
Parking brake lever assembly and frame 6mm 8 5.9
Rear brake caliper bleed screw 6mm 8 5.9
Cargo bed release lever 6mm 8 5.9
8mm 22 16
Rubber pad and cargo bed assembly 8mm 22 16
Hinge cover and cargo bed assembly 6mm 8 5.9
Cargo bed plastic panel and cargo bed assembly 6mm 8 5.9
Rear mud guard and cargo bed assembly 6mm 8 5.9
Front bumper protector board and front bumper 6mm 8 5.9

2-22
 Specifications

CHASSIS TIGHTENING TORQUES

Part to be tightened Thread Torque Torque
Size Nm Ft Lbs
Front bumper and frame 10mm 60 44
12mm 90 43
Upper instrument panel and frame 6mm 8 5.9
Ceiling side frame (enclosure) and frame 10mm 60 44
Support frame 10mm 60 44
Top frame 10mm 60 44
Side Frame 10mm 60 44
Seat Support 8mm 22 16
Footrest plate 6mm 8 5.9

General Tightening Torque Specs

This chart specifies tightening torques for standard fasteners with a standard ISO thread
pitch. Tightening torque specifications for special components or assemblies are
provided for each chapter of this manual. To avoid warping tighten multi-fastener
assemblies in a crisscross pattern and progressive stages until the specified tightening
torque is reached. Unless otherwise specified, tightening torque specifications require
clean, dry threads. Components should be at room temperature.

A B General tightening torques

(nut) (bolt) Nm m · kg ft · lb
10 mm 6 mm 8 0.8 5.9
12 mm 8 mm 22 2.2 16
14 mm 10 mm 60 6.0 44
17 mm 12 mm 90 9.0 66
19 mm 14 mm 120 12.0 88
22 mm 16 mm 150 15.0 110
A: Distance between flats

B: Outside thread diameter

2-23
 Specifications

CHASSIS

Lubrication points Lubricant

Lip of oil seal (full) Light lithium-base grease
O-ring(full) Light lithium-base grease
Steering shaft (upper end ,lower end) Light lithium-base grease
Ball connection of steering pushing rod Light lithium-base grease
Front wheel fork(ball-shaped joint) Light lithium-base grease
Front wheel bearing Wheel bearing grease

Dust-proof ring of brake Light lithium-base grease

Joint of front brake cable Light lithium-base grease
Front brake lever axle and rear brake lever axle Light lithium-base grease
Adjusting nut and pin of front brake cable Light lithium-base grease
Adjusting nut and pin of rear brake cable Light lithium-base grease
Rear brake pedal pivot and brake pedal axle hole Light lithium-base grease
Throttle rotating frame shaft and end section of throttle
Light lithium-base grease
cable
Reverse gear lever pivot Light lithium-base grease
Connection bolt of rear wheel A- Arm Light lithium-base grease
Rubber sleeve and rear wheel fork Seal gum

2-24
 Periodic Maintenance
Introduction
This chapter should be used as a guide, in order to perform all the recommended
maintenance checks and adjustments. These recommended maintenance procedures,
if followed will allow you to have a more reliable vehicle and the need for major service
work should be greatly reduced. All repair personnel should become familiar with this
section.

Initial Every
ITEM Work to be performed Month 1 3 6 6 12
Miles 200 750 1550 1550 3000
Hours 20 75 150 150 300
* Clean Every 20 ‐ 40 hours
Air Filter *Replace if (More often if in dusty or wet
element necessary environments)
* Check Operation
* Replace if X X X X X
Axle Boots Damaged
* Check Breather Hose for Cracks or
Crankcase Breather Damage X X X
*Replace if
System necessary
*Check for Leakage
*Tighten if
Exhaust System Necessary X X
* Replace Gaskets if Necessary
Engine Oil *Replace X X X X
Engine Oil Strainer * Clean X X X X X
*
Engine Oil Filter Replace X X X X
Spark Arrester * Clean X X X
* Check Fuel Hoses for Cracks or
Damage X X X
Fuel Lines * Replace if necessary
* Check Operation/ Fluid leaks
X X X X X
Front Brakes * Replace if necessary
* Check operation
* Adjust if X X X X X
Rear Brakes Necessary
* Check Balance/ Damage
*Repair if X X X X X
Wheel Necessary

3‐1
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance
Chart

Every Every Every Every Every Every Every

First 20 First 50 Every Every Every
Items 50 100 150 200 300 500 3900
hours hours Year 2 years 4 years
hours hours hours hours hours hours hours

Grease utility vehicle


Clean muffler/Spark Arrestor
 
Clean spark arrestor

Check lug nuts
 
Check battery condition

Adjust front wheel toe-in

Change oil
 
Check fuel line
 
Replace fuel line

Clean air filter element * 
 
Check brake pedal
 
Adjust parking brake
  
Check brake light switch
 
Check radiator hose & clamp

Replace radiator hose & clamp

Check PCV Accumulator 

Check intake air line

Replace intake air line

Check brake hose & pipe 

Replace brake hose & pipe

Check tires
 
Change axle case oil 
Adjust engine valve clearance 
Check fuel injection 
Check injection

Check CV Shaft Boots 

3‐2
 Periodic Maintenance
Maintenance
Chart

Every Every Every Every Every Every Every

First 20 First 50 Every Every Every
Items 50 100 150 200 300 500 3900
hours hours Year 2 years 4 years
hours hours hours hours hours hours hours

Check Exhaust System 

Check Wheel Bearings  
Check Engine Timing 
Change brake fluid

Replace remote hydraulic hose

Replace rear brake cylinder

Replace front brake cylinder

Flush cooling system

Change engine coolant


3‐3
 Periodic Maintenance

NOTE
 Recommended Brake Fluid: DOT3
 Caution (DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT BRAKE FLUIDS)
 Brake Fluid Replacement every 24 months
 When disassembling the master cylinder or caliper, replace
the fluid. Normally check the fluid level and add brake fluid as
needed.
 Replace oil seals inside master cylinder and calipers every
2yrs.
 Replace Brake Hoses every 4y ears, or if cracked or damaged.

Maintenance and Adjustments of the UV

Engine

Adjusting the Valve Clearance

Note

The valve clearance must be adjusted when the engine is cool to

the touch.
Adjust the valve clearance when the piston is at Top Dead Center Compression
(TDCC).

3‐4
 Periodic Maintenance
Maintenance and Adjustments of the UV
Valve Adjustment

1. Remove the following parts:

1. Valve Cover (Intake)(1)
2. Valve Cover (Exhaust)(2)
3. Spark Plug Cap(3)
4. Spark Plug

3. Rotate the crankshaft

counterclockwise until the timing mark
for TDC is aligned in the window

2. Remove the cooling fan：

1) Fan cover
2) Fan impeller
3) Timing plug cover

Note:
When aligning the timing mark for
TDC, there should be clearance
between the valve tip and the rocker
arm adjusters on both intake and
exhaust valves. If there is no
clearance rotate the crankshaft 1 full
turn to re align the mark. This should
put you on the compression stroke.

3‐5
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

4. To adjust: Reassembly is in reverse order.

1. Loosen the locknut(1)
2. Insert Feeler gauge of proper
thickness for valve clearance (2).
(Within range for Intake or Exhaust
whichever is being adjusted).
3. Rotate the adjuster (3) clockwise or
counter clockwise to achieve a
slight drag with feeler gauge.
4. While holding the adjuster steady
lock down the locknut (4).
1. Timing Plug cover
2. Engine fan components
3. Fan cover
4. Spark Plug
5. Valve covers (Intake and Exhaust).
Checking the Spark Plug
1. Lift the cargo bed up.
2. Remove the spark plug cap(1)
3. Remove the sparkplug

Check the following:

• Correct spark plug type
If Incorrect, replace.

Note:
The adjuster cannot move or your
adjustment will not be correct.

5. It is always a good idea to rotate

the crankshaft 2 full revolutions and
recheck your measurements.
6. Re adjust if necessary.

3‐6
 Periodic Maintenance
Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV
• Check the electrode (1) for
carbon deposits or a burned
condition
Normal color should be
(Light to medium Tan).
If incorrect, replace
If Spark plug is dirty or worn replace
it.
Apply a light amount of Anti-seize to
the threads and reinstall the spark
plug.
Spark Plug torque
18 Nm -20 Nm (1.8 m · kg, 13 ft lbs)
Reinstall the spark plug cap.
Lower the cargo bed.
3‐7
Measuring the compression Pressure
Note:
Insufficient compression pressure will
result in a loss of performance.
1. Start the engine and let it warm up
for several minutes.
2. Stop the engine and remove the
sparkplug.
3. Assemble the compression pressure
tester ① and adapter② screw into
the spark plughole.
Note:
When cranking the engine, ground the
spark plug lead to prevent sparking.
4. Crank over the engine with the
electric starter (be sure the battery is
fully charged) with the throttle wide-
open until the compression reading on
the gauge stabilizes.
5. Read the highest Data on the
Compression tester.
 Periodic Maintenance
Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV
Standard compression pressure
data Compression pressure
(At sea level)
Standard:950Kpa(135.14Psi)
Minimum:900Kpa(128.02Psi)
Maximum:1000Kpa(142.25Psi)
· Above the maximum pressure:
Check the cylinder head, valve
surface, and piston crown for carbon
deposits.
· Below the minimum pressure:
Check the accumulation carbon in the
firebox of the cylinder head and
accumulation carbon on the piston
head.
When test is complete reinstall the spark
plug and lower the cargo bed.
Checking the engine oil level
1. Place the vehicle on a level surface.
2. Remove the seat bottom
and engine access panel.
3. Unscrew the dipstick and check the
oil level.
Oil level should be between the
Maximum ①and Minimum Level ②
on the dipstick.
If low add oil to the proper level.
NOTE:
Do not screw the dipstick in when
checking the oil level, it is checked with
the dipstick sitting on the threads.
1. Start the engine and let it warm up
for several minutes.
2. Stop the engine, wait a couple
minutes for the oil to settle and
recheck the oil level.
Reinstall the seat bottom and engine
access panel.
Note:
Use only API Service Classification SJ or Higher
and JASO-MA Grade
3‐8
 Periodic Maintenance
Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV
Changing the engine oil • Lubricate the O-ring ③of the new Oil
Filter with a thin coat of clean engine
1. Place the vehicle on a level surface. oil.
2. Start the engine and let it warm up for • Hand tighten on the new oil filter.
several minutes.
3. Stop the engine and place an oil pan
under the engine.
4. Remove the seat bottom and engine
access panel.
5. Remove:
• Engine oil filler plug
(dipstick)① • Install engine oil drain bolt.(1)
• Engine oil drain bolt ② and
drain the engine oil from the
crankcase.

• Fill to the proper level on the dipstick.

6. It is always recommended to change
the oil filter when doing an oil change.
• Remove the oil filter①
With an oil filter wrench ②.
Oil Quantity
The oil capacity after the engine has
been disassembled and reassembled
1.9L
The oil capacity for an oil and filter
change is 2.3L
• Install the dipstick.
• Warm the engine up for a few
minutes, and then stop the engine.

• Check:
• Engine for oil leaks
• Oil level on dipstick

3‐9
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

7. Check oil pressure Chassis
• Slightly loosen the oil galley
bolt ①. Cleaning the Air Filter
1) Remove:
• Seat bottom
• Engine Access Panel
Air filter case cover
Remove air filter:
·air filter Holder
·air filter check hose
• Start the engine and keep it ·air filter case cover
idling until engine oil starts to ·air filter element
seep from the oil galley bolt. If
no engine oil comes out after
one minute, turn the engine
off so that it will not seize.
• Check the engine oil
passages, the oil filter and the
oil pump for damage or
leakage.
• Start the engine after solving
the problem(s) and check the
engine oil pressure again.
• Tighten the oil galley bolt to
specification.

Oil galley bolt 7 Nm

(0.7 m · kg, 5.1 ft · lb)

8. Install:
• Cover
• Seat bottom
.
2. Check:
· air filter element
· If damaged Replace.

3‐10
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

Note
Never operate the engine with the
air filter element removed. This will
allow unfiltered air to enter, causing
rapid wear and possible engine
damage. Operation without the filter
element will affect carburetor tuning
and possible engine damage.
Checking the Coolant Level
• Place the vehicle on a level
surface
• Remove the hood cover
Note:
Vehicle should not be warmed up for
this check. Check coolant before starting
the vehicle.
• Check coolant level on the reservoir.
The level should be between the
minimum level mark (a) and the
maximum level mark (b).
• If low add the recommended coolant
to the proper level.

3‐11
 Periodic Maintenance
Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV
Changing the Coolant 6) Remove the radiator cap(1)
• Locate coolant tank
• Remove coolant reservoir cap(1)

7) Drain the coolant

• Disconnect the coolant outlet
hose(1)

2) Disconnect coolant reservoir hose(2)

3) Drain coolant from the reservoir
4) Reconnect coolant reservoir hose
5) Remove the coolant drain bolt (1) • Disconnect the water pump inlet
along with the copper washer. hose(2)

8) Install coolant drain bolt (2) with a

new copper washer(1)

10 Nm or 7.2 ft · lbs

3‐12
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

9) Connect water pump inlet hose
10)Connect coolant outlet hose
11)Remove the air bleed bolt(1)

12) Fill the cooling system with the

recommended coolant until coolant
comes out of the hole for the air
bleed bolt.
13) Install the Air bleed bolt
9Nm or 6.5 ft · lbs
14) Fill the radiator
15) Install the radiator cap
16) Fill the coolant reservoir
with the recommended
coolant to the max level
mark(a)
Note:
Adding water instead of coolant
lowers the antifreeze content of the
coolant.
17) Install coolant reservoir cap
18) Start the engine, warm it up
for several minutes to allow the
coolant to circulate through the
cooling system.
19) Allow the vehicle to cool
off then recheck the level on
the reservoir
20) Close the hood
21) Install the console,
passenger’s seat and
driver’s seat.

3‐13
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

Bleeding the Cooling System.

1)Chock the rear wheel, engage the parking brake, place the shift lever in NEUTRAL or
PARK and the parking brake, place the shift lever in NEUTRAL or PARK and jack up the
front of the utility vehicle approximately 6”.

2)Remove the bleeder screw (1) on the radiator, will the radiator and when fluid begins to
come out of the bleeder screw hole, replace the bleeder screw (1). The bleeder screw can
be accessed via the front right wheel well.

3) Start the utility vehicle and let it idle.

4) Remove the second bleeder screw (2) where the radiator hose (3) connects to the
engine and let the engine run until a steady stream of fluid comes out of the bleeder screw (2) hole
indicating there are no more air pockets in the coolant system. Replace the bleeder screw.

5) Top off the radiator and replace the radiator cap. Then lower the front of the utility vehicle off the jack.
3‐14
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

Checking the coolant temperature warning light

Coolant temperature indicator light (1)

3‐15
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

Checking the V-Belt

1) Remove:
• Seat bottom
• Engine Cover
• Drive belt cover
2) Check the V-belt for cracks, wear,
scaling or chipping. Replace if
necessary.
3) Check for oil or grease inside v-
belt housing. If found see cleaning
instructions for Primary and
Secondary sheaves.
4) Check V-Belt width. If out of
specification replace with a new V-
Belt.

3‐16
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

1) Replacing the V-Belt 3) Remove the bolts used to widen
• Install bolts (1) into the the gap on the secondary sheaves.
secondary fixed sheave holes 4) Install the following:
as shown in the figure. • Drive belt cover
• Engine Cover
Note: • Seat bottom
Tightening the bolts (1) will push the
secondary sliding sheave away,
Cleaning the Spark Arrester
causing the gap between the secondary
fixed and sliding sheaves to widen.
1) Clean:
Tap the tailpipe lightly with a soft-face
hammer or suitable tool, then use a
wire brush to remove any carbon
deposits from the spark arrester
portion of the tailpipe and the inner
contact surfaces of the muffler.

2) Remove the bolts (1).

• Remove the V-belt (1) from the
primary and secondary sheave.

3) Remove the tailpipe (2) by pulling it

2) Install the new V-belt with the out of the muffler.
direction arrow facing the direction
shown in figure below.

4) Clean as necessary.
5) Insert the tailpipe into the muffler and
align the bolt holes, retighten the bolts.

3‐17
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

Adjusting the Brake Pedal Adjusting the Parking Brake Free Play

1) Check Brake pedal Free play 1) Shift the drive select lever into Low
gear “L”.
1-4 mm 2) Remove:
• Hood Cover
• Under Hood Access Panel
2) Adjust: 3) Check the Parking Brake cable
• Loosen the locknut(1) free play (a).
• Turn the brake rod (2) in or
out until the correct free play
is obtained.

Note:
The end of the brake rod should lightly
contact the brake master cylinder.

• Tighten the locknut to correct

torque.
3) Make sure there is no drag on the
front or rear wheels when trying to
move the UTV.
4) Adjust:
• Pull back the adjuster cover
(1)
• Loosen the locknut(2)
• Turn the adjuster in or out to
achieve proper free play.
• Tighten the locknut
• Slide the adjuster cover
back to its original position.

3‐18
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

Checking and Adjusting the Parking Brake

1) To Check the parking brake place drive the vehicle up a slope roughly 20 degrees. Engage the parking brake.
The handle should click no more than 3 times and the brake should hold the vehicle.
2) Locate the parking brake adjustment nut (1) on the rear differential.

2) Loosen the lock nut (1) and then tighten the bot (2) to adjust the parking brake. Turn the bolt
until it touches, then back it of ¼ turn.

3) If the vehicle can be held on the slope after the above adjustment but the handle goes
through multiple clicks the cable length needs adjusted. Look inside the driver’s side wheel
well and locate the adjustment point. Slide back the rubber cover to expose the adjustment
nuts.

4) Adjust the nuts until the extra travel in the handle is eliminated.
3‐19
 Periodic Maintenance
Maintenance and Adjustment of the UTV
Caution:
Checking the Brake fluid Level Do not mix different type of brake
fluid.
1) Place the vehicle on a level surface Use Dot 3 brake fluid only as
2) Locate reservoir by left front tire mixing can cause brake failure and
3) Check the reservoir level line (1). expensive repairs.
Fluid should be above the “Min”
line.
CHECKING THE FRONT BRAKE PADS
Note:
Brake fluid may erode painted surfaces 1. Remove the front wheels
or plastic parts. Always clean up spilled 2. Check:
fluid immediately. · When the brake pads wear indicator
groove (a) are almost disappeared replace
the brake pads as a set.

3. Operate the brake pedal.

4. Install:
· front wheels

CHECKING THE REAR BRAKE PADS

1. Remove the rear wheels

2. Check:
· When the brake pads wear indicator
groove (a) are almost disappeared replace
the brake pads as a set.

3. Install the rear wheels

3‐20
 Periodic Maintenance
Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV
CHECKING THE BRAKE HOSES AND • Engine Cover
BRAKE LINES • Seat bottom

1. Remove:
· Seat bottom and Engine Cover
2. Lift the hood up.
3. Lift the cargo bed.

4. Check the following for cracks, wear or

damage and if needed replace.
• Front brake hoses
• Front brake lines
• Rear brake hoses
5. Install:

3‐21
 Periodic Maintenance
BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM

Warning:
Bleed the brake system if any of the following have occurred.
• The system has been disassembled.
• The brake hose or brake lines have been loosened or removed.
• The brake fluid has been very low.
• The brake operation has been faulty

1. Locate the brake fluid reservoir. Clean and remove the Master Cylinder reservoir cap.
2. Add the proper brake fluid to the reservoir.
3. The Bleeding process must be performed in the following order, starting with the right rear.
Note: Always start with the caliper that is furthest from the master cylinder. Failure
to follow the procedure in this order may lead to improper brake bleeding causing
the brakes to feel “soft” or malfunction.

4. Connect a clear ¼” I.D. plastic hose (1) to the caliper bleed screw ( 2).

5. Place the other end of the hose into a suitable catch container.

6. Place an 8mm box wrench on the bleeder valve. Ensure there is enough room to rotate the
box wrench to the left to open the bleeder valve.
3‐22
 Periodic Maintenance
7. Two technicians are required for the following steps. Technician #1 should be located at
the caliper. Technician #2 should be sitting in the vehicle to pump the brakes.

8. Have Technician #2 slowly press and release the brake pedal 3 times. At the end of the
3rd depression, the pedal should be held as if the brakes were applied. Technician #2
must inform Technician #1 the brake pedal is being held.

9. Technician #1 should open the bleeder valve at this time and allow the brake fluid to flow
into the bottle. Technician#1 must watch the brake fluid passing through the clear hose for
any bubbles. NOTE: If No Brake Fluid Is Flowing, Proceed to “Procedure If No Fluid Is
Passing Through The Right Rear Caliper”, Step 20.

10. Technician #2 must hold the pedal to the floor and inform Technician #1 that the pedal is
on the floor.

11. At this time Technician #1 must close the bleeder valve by rotating it to the right as far as it
was turned to the left to ensure the bleeder valve is fully closed.

12. Technician #1 needs to inform Technician #2 that the bleeder valve is closed and to repeat
the brake pedal pumping procedure.

13. Repeat Steps 8 through 12 until only brake fluid, with no bubbles, passes through the clear
hose. CAUTION: Allowing the reservoir to get low on brake fluid will cause air in the
system. The Master Cylinder Reservoir Should Be Filled After Every 3rd Bleed
Procedure With Clean DOT 3 Brake Fluid.

14. When only new, clean brake fluid passes through the clear hose three (3) consecutive
times, close the bleeder valve and install the rubber boot.

15. Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the left rear caliper, then proceed to Step 16.

16. Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the right front caliper, then proceed to Step 17.

17. Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the left front caliper, then proceed to Step 18.

18. Make sure the Master Cylinder is full of DOT 3 brake fluid to the fill line and install the
reservoir cap.

19. Have Technician #2 check the brake pedal by slowly pumping the pedal 10 times to ensure
the pressure holds.

Note: A complete system flush consumes approximately 16 oz. of brake fluid.

3‐23
 Periodic Maintenance
Procedure if No Fluid is Passing Through the Right Rear Caliper

20. Confirm that the Master Cylinder reservoir is full.

21. Perform the brake bleeding procedure on the right front caliper as described in Steps 4
through 14 until brake fluid flows.

22. If brake fluid flows after three (3) consecutive times, proceed to Step 3 through 19 for the
“Brake System Bleed Procedure”.

23. If fluid does not flow after five (5) attempts at the right front caliper, close the bleeder valve
and move to the left front caliper.

24. Perform the brake bleeding procedure on the left front caliper as described in Steps 4
through 14 until brake fluid flows.

25. If brake fluid flows after three (3) consecutive times, proceed to Step 3 through 19 for the
“Brake System Bleed Procedure”.

26. If brake fluid does not flow after 5 attempts, replace the master cylinder and start with Step
1 of the “Master Cylinder Bleed Procedure” then Follow Steps 1 through 19 of the “Brake
System Bleed Procedure”.

3‐24
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustments of the UV

1. Make sure the bleed screw is tight and
add fluid to the reservoir to the full
line.
Warning:
The vehicle must be stopped and your
foot off the accelerator pedal before
shifting to prevent damage to the
transmission.

1. Adjustment of the shift lever rod.

• Make sure the select lever is in the
neutral position.
• Loosen both locknuts (1).
Warning:
• Adjust the rod.
Before operating the vehicle always
• Tighten the locknuts.
check the operation of the brakes after
bleeding the brakes.

ADJUSTING THE SELECT LEVER

SHIFT ROD

① Neutral
② High
③ Low
④ Reverse
⑤ Parking
⑥ Select lever shift rod

3‐25
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

1. Remove the Final Gear oil drain bolt (1).

CHECKING THE FINAL GEAR OIL 1. Install the drain bolt

LEVEL
1. Place the vehicle on a level surface.
2. Remove the filler plug.
3. Check the oil level.
• The oil level should be filled to the
bottom of the filler hole.
2. Remove the oil filler plug
3. Fill until oil reaches the bottom of the
filler hole.
4. Install the filler plug.
Drain Bolt Torque
10 Nm (1.0 m · kg, 7.2 ft · lbs)

Filler Plug Torque

23 Nm (2.3 m · kg, 17 ft · lbs)

Note:
4. Install the filler plug. Whenever the drain bolt gets removed
replace the crush washer (gasket) with
23 Nm (2.3 m · kg, 17 ft · lbs) a new one.

CHANGING THE FINAL GEAR OIL

1. Place the vehicle on a level surface.

2. Place a container under the final gear
case to collect the drained oil.

3‐26
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

ADJUSTING THE TOE-IN

1. Place vehicle on a level surface.

2. Make sure the tires are inflated to the
proper air pressure.
3. Mark both front tire tread centers.
• Tighten the tie rod end locknuts on
4. Measure (A) with tires on the ground.
both right and left tie rods.

Locknut (rod end)

40 Nm (4.0 m · kg, 29 ft lbs)

Warning:
• Be sure that both tie rods are turned
the same amount. If not, the vehicle will
drift right or left even though the
5. Rotate the tires 180 degrees so that the steering wheel is positioned straight.
marks are now at the back of the front
tires.
6. Measure between the marks for the (B)
measurement.
7. Subtract the A measurement from the
B measurement to find
Tow in Measurement.
Adjust by the following:
• Mark both tie-rods ends. This
reference point will be needed
during adjustment.
• Loosen the locknut (tie rod end)
(1) on each tie rod.
• The same number of turns should
be given to both the right and left
tie-rods (2) until the specified toe-
in is obtained. This is to keep the
length of the rods the same.

3‐27
 Periodic Maintenance
ADJUSTING THE SHOCK
ABSORBERS
There are three adjustment points
on the shocks. The rebound (a),
pre-load spring (b) and damping
rate (c) can be adjusted.
Rebound Adjuster (a)
The rebound adjuster is located near the
bottom of the shock and controls the
“bounce back” speed of the utility
vehicle. To adjust the rebound or
“bounce-back” speed, follow the steps
below:
Note: Each position has a stop or “click”
to indicate the setting.
1. Insert a standard screw driver into the
adjustment.
2. Rotate the screw into one of the 18
positions between “S” (position 0) and
“F” (18). Rotate the screw clockwise
(towards the “S” or “0” position) to slow
the rebound and counter-clockwise
(towards the “F” or “18” position) to
speed up the rebound.
Pre-Load Spring Adjuster (b)
The pre-load adjuster is located in the
body of the shock and controls the
height of the vehicle. It can be adjusted
to accommodate for different load
situations.
3‐28
Note: This adjustment requires a
spanner wrench to complete. A spanner
wrench is included in the tool kit shipped
with this utility vehicle.
1. Using a spanner wrench, loosen the
upper lock nut.
2. Adjust the pre-load adjuster nut to the
desired setting. Turn the pre-load
adjuster clockwise to increase the
compression force (raise the utility
vehicle) and turn the pre-load adjuster
nut counter-clockwise to decrease the
compression force (lower the utility
vehicle).
Damping Rate Adjuster (c)
The compression adjuster is located on
the upper part of the shock and controls
the ride of the utility vehicle and the
impact resistance of the shocks.
Note: Each position has a stop or “click”
to indicate which of the 18 positions it is
in.
1. To increase the stiffness of the suspension
and increase the absorption of impacts, rotate the
compression adjuster screw clockwise towards
the “SLOW” (or “0”) position.
2. To decrease the stiffness (soften the ride)
rotate the compression adjuster screw
counter-clockwise towards the “FAST” (or
“18”) position.
To return the utility vehicle to its stock
setting, use the chart below:
* -- These setting are based on a “full load”
condition. 250 lb (113 kg) driver, 250 lb
(113 kg) passenger and 500 lb (227 kg)
cargo load.
Periodic Maintenance

3‐29
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

Checking the Constant Velocity Joint
Dust Boots
Inspect (1) looking for any damage, tears,
or cracking. Replacement found in chapter
5 Chassis.
Check the Tie-rod ends.
Inspect for vertical play, if any then replace
the Tie-rod end in question. Replacement
is found in Chapter 5 Chassis.

Check the Ball joints.

Raise the front end of the vehicle so there

is no weight on the front wheels. Move the
wheels laterally back and forth. If there is
excessive free play replace the Ball joint in
question.

Checking the Steering System

Check the Steering Wheel for excessive

play up or down and side to side.

3‐22
 Periodic Maintenance

Maintenance and Adjustment of the UV

CHECKING THE TIRES

1. Check the tires for bulges, wear or
cracking.
If needed replace with manufacturer
recommended tire combinations.
Tire wear limit ○a
Front and rear: 3.0 mm (0.12 in)
Changing the Tail/Brake Light
Assembly
All light assemblies utilize LEDs and
have no bulbs to replace. A burnt
out or nonfunctioning light requires
replacing the assembly.

2. Reference label on vehicle for correct tire

Remove
inflation pressures.
• Cargo bed panel (1)

• Tail/brake light LED assembly

(2)

3‐23
 Engine

Special Notes

1. Make sure to use only manufacturer recommended parts, oils, adhesives and
sealants.
2. After removal of oil seals, gaskets, O-rings, and piston rings, replace with
new parts.
3. Pay attention to keep disassembled parts orderly. Make sure of the original
position for reassembly.
4. Prevent damage to disassembled parts. Clean parts before measuring
and reassembly. Lubricate with specified oils and grease at specified
locations.
5. Bolt and nut loosening order should always start with the smallest diameter
bolt working up to the largest diameter bolt in a cross pattern from outside to
inside.
6. Bolt and nut tightening order should always start with the largest diameter bolts
first inside to outside in a cross pattern then the next smaller size using the same
pattern.
7. All sealing bolts that are removed must be replaced with new sealing bolts.
8. Bearings and seals are a 1 time use item, if removed replace with new bearings
and or seals.
9. Bearings and oil seals need to be installed with the manufacturer’s logo’s and or
part numbers facing outward.
10. Before assembly make sure all mating surfaces are clean.

4‐1
 Engine

Engine Removal

Figure1 Figure2

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Remove the parts in the order
Remove Intake assembly 1. listed
1. Seat and Seatback
2. Engine Cover
3. Intake assembly (Fig 1) For installation, reverse the order
4. Drain Plug (Fig 2) listed
5. Seat box top panel
6. Engine wiring harness
7. Cross member
8. Bed assembly
9. Fuel Line
10. Coolant lines
11. Exhaust header
12. Shift cable

After removal of the intake system, cover the opening so that no foreign debris can fall
into the engine.

Place a drain pan beneath the drain bolt before removal.

4‐2
 Engine

Cylinder Head and Cylinder Head Cover

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Remove the following: Remove the parts in the order listed

1 Union bolt 3
2 Copper washer 7
3 Oil Line 3 1
4 Oil Line 2 1
5 Spark plug 1
6 Tappet Cover (Intake) 1
7 Tappet Cover (Exhaust) 2
8 Timing Chain Tensioner Cap Bolt 1
9 Timing Chain Tensioner / Gasket 1/1
10 Timing Chain Guide (Exhaust Side) 1
11 Thermo switch 1
12 Cylinder Head 1
13 Alignment pins 2

4‐3
 Engine
1. Check the Valve Clearance
(Refer to Chapter3)
2. Inspect the cylinder head cover for
cracks or damage. If replacement is
necessary, replace cylinder head
cover and cylinder head as a set.
3. Inspect the Tappet covers
• Tappet cover (1)Exhaust
• Tappet cover (2)Intake
• O-rings
4. Insert a screwdriver and slowly
release the timing chain
tensioner rod.
(Make sure the tensioner rod comes out of
the housing smoothly, if there is any rough
movement replace the tensioner.)
4‐4
5. Inspect the cylinder head
• Remove carbon deposits
(Use a good quality
combustion chamber
cleaner)
Note:
Do not use a sharp instrument to avoid
damaging or scratching the spark plug
threads or valve seats.
• Look for cracks or damage
• Look at the cylinder head
water jackets, clean out any
mineral deposits or rust.
Installation
1. Install the cylinder head cover
• Washers(1)
• Bolts(2
Torque 8-12 Nm or 6 – 9 ft lbs
In a cross pattern
 Engine

2. Install the cylinder head

• Cylinder head gasket • Timing chain guide (exhaust
• Cylinder Head Side)
• 9mm bolts(1-6) • Timing chain tensioner
Torque 38 Nm or 28 ft lbs
• 6mm bolts(7) Lightly press the timing chain
Torque 10 Nm or 7 ft lbs tensioner rod into the
housing by hand.
Note:
Tighten the bolts in the proper
sequence as shown, in the
illustration, in 2 stages.

While pressing wind it

clockwise with a thin
screwdriver (1) until it stops.
Checking condition of cam drive assembly:
With the tensioner rod fully extended, insert tensioner With the screwdriver still
into the block. inserted, install the tensioner
Lightly press the tensioner against the timing chain and a new gasket onto the
guide block.

Tighten the tensioner bolt to the

correct torque.
Timing chain tensioner bolt
(10 Nm or 7 ft lbs)

Note:

The up mark on the tensioner should face

up.
Check for a minimum gap of .25” between
mating surfaces of tensioner and block. Remove the screwdriver, make sure the
If there is less than .25” replace timing rod releases and tighten the cap bolt to the
chain, cam gear and both guides. specified torque.

Remove tensioner from block and continue Timing chain tensioner cap bolt
with install procedure below (7 Nm or 5 ft lbs)
4‐5
 Engine

Rocker Arms and Camshaft

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the rocker arms and camshaft Remove parts in order
listed
Cylinder head cover
1 Plug / O-ring 1/1
2 Rocker arm shaft stopper 2
3 Rocker arm shaft 2 1
4 Rocker arm 3 1
5 Rocker arm shaft 3 / O-ring 1/1
6 Rocker arm 4 1
7 Rocker arm shaft 1 / O-ring 1/1
8 Rocker arm 1 1
9 Rocker arm 2 1
10 Wave washer 4
11 Locknut 5
12 Valve adjuster 5
13 Cam Guide plate 4
14 Cam sprocket 5
15 Camshaft 5
16 Cylinder head 2 Install in reverse order.
17 Cylinder head gasket 1

4‐6
 Engine

Inspect the rocker arms

• Rocker arm lobes(1)
• Valve adjusters(2)

Look for discoloration, scratches or

pitting.

Subtract the rocker arm shaft outer

diameter from the rocker arm inside
diameter to determine the clearance.

Clearance Limit 0.05mm

• Rocker arms Inspect the Camshaft

• Rocker arm shafts • Cam Lobes
Look for damage or (Look for discoloration, scratches
wear or pitting)
Measure the inside diameter of the rocker • Camshaft Journal
arm hole. Look for wear or damage.
Measure external diameter with a
Out of spec limit 12.038mm micrometer. (Out of spec, replace)
Look at rotor “I” mark alignment.

Inspect the camshaft sprocket and chain for

wear and fitment.

Inspect the decompression system

• Inspect while sprocket is still on the
camshaft.
Check the surface of the rocker arm shafts Check that the decompression lever
Look for worn, pitting or scratches. pin (1) projects from the camshaft.
Check that the decompression cam
Measure the outside diameter of the (1) moves smoothly.
rocker arm shaft with a micrometer.

Out of spec limit 11.96mm

4‐7
 Engine

Installation Caution:
Do not turn the crankshaft during the camshaft
1. Installing the rocker arms
installation.
• Rocker arms(1)
• Rocker arm shafts(2) Temporarily install the camshaft sprocket on the
Note: camshaft. (Do not install the bolts) Install the timing chain
The thread hole (a) of the rocker arm on the sprocket.
shaft must face the outside. After
installation make sure (a) is correctly Note:
positioned. Make sure the small holes (3) on the
camshaft face upward.

2. Installing the camshaft Align the notches (4) on the decompression

• camshaft cams with the projections (5) on the
• camshaft sprocket decompression spring lever, then install the
camshaft sprocket on the camshaft.
Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to
align the 2nd or middle mark (1) with the
stationary pointer (2) on the A.C. magneto
cover. This will set the motor at Top Dead
center.

Check the position as shown in the

diagram
(6) Punch mark on spring
lever (7) Top front of cylinder
head
Install decompression cam guide plate
(8) and camshaft sprocket bolts (9).

Camshaft sprocket bolt (20 Nm or 15 ft lbs)

4‐8
 Engine

Valves and Valve springs

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the Valves and Valve springs Remove the parts in the order
listed
1 Valve Keeper 10
2 Valve spring collar 5
3 Intake valve spring 3
4 Exhaust valve spring 2
5 Intake valve 3
6 Exhaust valve 2
7 Valve stem seal 5
8 Valve spring seat 5

For installation, reverse the

order listed

4‐9
 Engine

Inspect Measure valve stem run out

• Valve Sealing
(Look for leaks at the seat) Run out Limit 0.01 mm
Pour a combustion chamber
cleaner into the intake track.
Check The intake side (1), there
should be no leakage at the valve
seat (2).

Whenever a valve is removed always

replace the valve guide seal.
If the valve needs to be replaced replace
the Valve guide as well.

Measure the valve spring free length

and squareness.

Valve spring free length Intake:

32.5mm Exhaust: 36.2mm Valve
spring squareness Intake: 0.10mm
Exhaust: 0.10mm
If leakage is found the valves and the
valve seats need to be ground and lapped.

Measure valve stem to valve guide

clearance.
Limit Intake0.12mm
Exhaust0.14mm

Measure the margin thickness. Measure the compressed spring force

Both Intake and Exhaust

0.85 – 1.15 mm

Intake: 100.0 ~ 115.7 N at 27.5 mm

Exhaust: 120.6 ~ 138.3 N at 31.0 mm

4‐10
 Engine

Remove the Valve Guide Clean off all of the lapping compound and
• This process is easier if the install a new valve guide seal.
cylinder head is heated to 212
degrees Fahrenheit in an oven.

Install a new valve guide with a valve

guide installer (2) and removal (1) tool.

Install
• valve spring seats
• valve springs
• valve collars
• Valve spring keepers
After installing, the valve guide needs to
be resized with a ream of the correct size.
Install the valve springs with the tight
windings toward the head.

Note:
Using a spring compressor (1) and
attachment (2), compress the spring,
apply a dab of lithium grease to the
keeper to help hold it in place above the
collar.
Install the new or refaced valve into the
head, apply a light coat of lapping
compound to the Face of the valve.
Turn the valve until the valve face and the
valve seat are evenly polished.

To secure the valve keeper onto the valve

stem after installed, lightly tap the valve tip
with a rubber hammer.

4‐11
 Engine

Cylinder and Piston

NO. Part Name Removing Qty Remarks

the cylinder and piston Water Pump Remove parts in the order
outlet Hose listed
Cylinder Head
1 Coolant inlet joint 1
2 Cylinder / O-ring 1/1
3 Cylinder gasket 1
4 Dowel pin 2
5 Wrist pin clip 2
6 Wrist pin 1
7 Piston 1
8 Piston ring set 1

For installation, reverse the

order listed

4‐12
 Engine

1. Measure the cylinder bore 4. Measure piston ring side clearance

• Top • Use a feeler gauge
• Middle
• Bottom

Out of roundness: 0.005mm

Taper:0.005mm

2. Measure the piston Rings end gap 5. Measure the piston pin outside
• Place the ring inside the diameter.
cylinder and measure with
a feeler gauge. Service Wear Limit
0.02 mm
Top ring/2nd ring Limit 0.5mm

6. Measure the piston pin bore inside

3. Measure piston outer diameter at diameter.
10 mm above the skirt.
Service Wear Limit
Piston to cylinder clearance 0.02 mm
Limit 0.15mm

4‐13
 Engine

Install
1. Piston rings (onto the piston)
• Install rings so that
manufacturer’s numbers or
markings face upward.
• Lubricate with engine oil
Caution:
Be careful not to damage the timing
chain guide during installation. Pass
the timing chain through the timing
chain cavity.

2. Piston (1)
• Install piston pin (2)through
piston wall, Rod, piston wall
• Install piston pin clips(3)

3. Cylinder
• O-ring
• 10mmbolts
42Nm or 31 ft lbs
• 6mmbolts
10Nm or 7 ft lbs

Install the cylinder with one

hand while compressing the
rings with the other hand.

4‐14
 Engine

Engine cooling Fan and A.C. Magneto

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the engine cooling fan Remove the parts in the order listed.
and A.C. Magneto
Drive Belt cover
Engine oil
Coolant
Water Pump assembly
1 Engine cooling fan air duct assembly 1
2 Air shroud 1 1
3 Engine cooling fan 1
4 Air shroud 2 1
5 A.C. Magneto coupler 2
6 Engine cooling fan pulley base 1
7 A.C. Magneto cover/ gasket 1/1
8 Dowel pin 2
9 Stator lead holder 1
10 Pickup coil 1
11 Stator assembly 1
12 A.C. Magneto rotor 1
13 Woodruff key 1
14 Starter wheel gear 1
15 Washer 1
16 Starter idle gear shaft 1
17 Bearing 1
18 Starter Idle gear 1 Installation, reverse the order listed
4‐15
 Engine

1. Inspect the A.C. Magneto

• Stator coil
• Pickup coil

Look for wear, damage, burnt,

frayed wires. Look for damage to
insulation on windings. If
damaged replace.
Turn the starter wheel gear
Counterclockwise (1) to check
that the starter clutch and
wheel gear engage. If the
starter clutch and wheel gear
do not engage, replace the
starter clutch.
2. Inspect the starter clutch(1)
• Bolts(2)

Look for cracks, damage in the

Starter clutch. Look for loose bolts,
Replace with new bolts with
locking agent.

Note:
The arrow mark on the starter clutch
must face inward, away from the A.C
Magneto rotor. Use locking agent on
new bolts for installation.
Turn the starter wheel gear
clockwise (2) to check for smooth
operation, if it is not smooth
replace the starter clutch.

Inspect the starter idle gear teeth

(1) and the starter wheel gear
(2) Teeth (2).

Look for burrs, chips, roughness

or wear between mating
surfaces.
Install the starter wheel gear onto
the starter clutch, and hold the
starter clutch.

Note:
Install the starter wheel gear with the
groove (a) facing the A.C Magneto
rotor.

4‐16
 Engine
Installing Rotor to Crankshaft. 75 Nm or 55 ft lbs

1. Inspect tapered portion of crankshaft for

damage. If small imperfections or burrs
exist clean with a fine file or emery cloth. If
necessary, lap crankshaft and rotor with
180 grit lapping compound.
2. Clean tapered surfaces of crankshaft and
rotor with brake parts cleaner or other quick
evaporating cleaner.
3. Install woodruff key into crankshaft. Note: Do not reuse bolt used to
secure fan hub.
Note: Ensure that top of woodruff key is
parallel with the tapered portion of the
crankshaft.

4. Slide flywheel onto the crankshaft.

5. Securing flywheel.
• On 2019+ units install the M22 nut
and torque to 160 Nm.
• On Prior years slide the fan hub
against the rotor. Run a bolt in the
end of the crankshaft and remove 3x
at a force not exceeding 70 Nm.
Discard bolt.

Note:
When installing the A.C. Magneto cover
use a long rod to hold the A.C. Magneto
rotor in position from the outside. This
will make assembly easier. Be careful not
to damage the oil seal. Apply sealant (1)
to the bolt threads (2) shown in this
illustration.

Before installing the engine cooling

fan pulley, do not forget to install the
O-ring.

Install Engine cooling fan Pulley (1)

4‐17
 Engine
Engine Cooling Fan

Inspect the engine cooling fan

• Engine cooling fan
• Air shroud1
• Air shroud2

Look for cracks or damage, if

necessary, replace.

1. Install In the following order.

• Air Shroud 1
• Engine cooling fan
• Air Shroud 2 Install the air shroud (1)
2. Torque to Shroud bolts to 10 Nm
or 7 ft lbs.
3. Torque fan to 7 Nm or 5 ft lbs Note:
4. Note: Be sure to include O-ring and Install the engine cooling fan air
backing plate between cooling fan duct assembly with the arrow mark
and fan hub. (a) towards the air shroud (1).

4‐18
 Engine

Balancer Gears and Oil Pump Gears

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the balancer gears and Remove the parts in the order
oil pump gears listed
1 Nut / Lock washer 1/1
2 Balancer driven / oil pump drive gear 1
3 Chain 1
4 Straight key 1
5 Oil pump driven gear 1
6 Plate 1
7 Balancer drive gear 1
8 Spring 1
9 Pin 1
10 Timing chain guide (Intake side) 1 Installation, reverse the order
11 Timing chain 1 listed

4‐19
 Engine

1. Inspect 2. Install
• Oil pump drive gear(1) • Pins
• Oil pump driven gear(2) • Springs
• Balancer drive gear
Look for cracks, wear or damage. (on the buffer boss)
Replace if necessary. • Plate
• Cir clip
Note:
Align the punch mark (a) on the
balancer drive gear with the keyway
slot in (b).

• Balancer drive gear(1)

• Balancer driven gear(2)

Look for damage or wear, if it is

necessary to replace either one
replace them both as a set. • Balancer driven gear
Note:
Align the punch mark (a) on the
balancer drive gear with the punch
mark (b) on the balancer driven gear.

• Timing chain
• Timing chain guides

Look for cracks, stiffness in links

if necessary replace the timing
Chain and camshaft sprocket as • Lock washer(new)
a set. • Balance driven gear nut
110 Nm or 81 ft lbs

Note:
Use an aluminum plate between the
gears to hold them while torque is
applied. Apply molybdenum disulfide
grease to the threads of the nut.

4‐20
 Engine

Primary and Secondary Sheaves

Use high strength

thread locker Loctite
262 or equivalent

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the Primary and Secondary Remove the parts in the
Sheaves order listed
Engine assembly
1 Drive Belt cover 1
2 Rubber gasket 1
3 Bearing Housing 1
4 Dowel pin 2
5 Primary sheave assembly 1
6 V-belt 1
7 Primary fixed sheave 1
8 Secondary sheave assembly 1
9 Drive belt case 1 For installation, reverse the
10 Rubber gasket 2 order listed

4‐21
 Engine
Primary Sheave

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Disassembly of the Primary Sheave Remove the parts in the order
listed
1 Primary pulley sheave cap 1
2 Primary pulley slider 4
3 Spacer 4
4 Primary pulley cam 1
5 Primary pulley weight 8
6 Collar 1
7 Oil seal 2
8 Primary sliding sheave 1 For installation, reverse the order
9 O-ring 1 listed

4‐22
 Engine
Secondary Sheave

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Disassembly of the Secondary Sheave Remove the parts in the order
listed
1 Nut 1
2 Spring seat 1
3 Compression spring 1
4 Spring seat 1
5 Guide pin 4
6 Secondary sliding sheave 1
7 O-ring 2
8 Secondary fixed sheave 1
9 Oil seal 1 For installation, reverse the
10 Oil seal 1 order listed

4‐23
 Engine

1. Inspect 2. Inspect the Secondary sheave

• Primary sheave outside • Secondary fixed sheave
diameter (a). • Secondary sliding sheave

Check outside diameter wear limit: Look for smooth operation,

29.5 mm scratches or damage,
If replacement is necessary
replace as a set.

Look at torque cam grooves

(1) and Guide pins (2) for
damage or wear.
• Primary pulley slider
• Primary sliding sheave
splines

Look for wear cracks or

damage.

3. Inspect secondary sheave spring

• Measure spring free
length(a)

Look for any damage

• Spacer
• Primary pulley cam

Look for cracks or damage.

• Primary sliding sheave

• Primary fixed sheave

Look for cracks or damage.

4‐24
 Engine

Install 3. Assembling the secondary sheave

1. Assembling the primary sheave • Apply assembly lube to
 Clean the primary sliding
sheave face (1) The secondary sliding
 The primary fixed sheave face sheave (1) inner surface and
(2) oil seals.
 The collar(3)
 The weights (4) The bearings, oil seals and
inner surface of the
Remove excess grease. secondary fixed sheave.

2. Install • Install
• The weights(1)
Guide pins (1)
Apply a small amount of grease to Spring seat
the outer surface of the weights and Compression spring
install. Apply grease to the inner Spring seat
surface of the collar. Apply grease Nut
to the inner surface of the primary
sliding sheave.

Attach the sheave fixed block,

• Spacer Locknut wrench and sheave

spring compressor to the
• Sliders(1)
secondary sheave assembly.
• Primary pulley cam(2)
Place the sheave fixed block in
a vise and secure it.

Tighten the sheave spring

Compressor nut (1) and
compress the spring.

4‐25
 Engine

Install the nut (2) and tighten it to Tighten the primary sheave nut (1)
the specified torque using the
locknut wrench, and sheave fixed 120 Nm or 88 ft lbs
block.
Tighten the secondary sheave
nut (2).

100 Nm or 74 ft lbs

Note:
4. Install Use the sheave holder (3) to hold the
• Secondary sheave assembly primary sheave. Tighten in order
• V-belt Primary sheave nut then Secondary
• Primary sheave assembly sheave nut.

Note:
Tightening the bolts(1), size found in
adjustments chapter 3, will push the
secondary sliding sheave away,
causing the gap between the secondary
fixed and sliding sheaves to widen.
Install the V-belt with the arrow facing
the direction in the illustration.

4‐26
 Engine

Clutch

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the clutch
Primary and secondary sheaves
1 Clutch housing assembly
2 Gasket / dowel pin
3 One-way clutch bearing
4 Nut
5 Clutch carrier assembly
Remove the parts in the order listed
1
1/2
1
1 Apply High strength (red) thread locker
and stake nut to crankshaft.
1 For installation, reverse the order listed

4‐27
 Engine

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Disassembling the clutch housing Remove the parts in the order
listed
1 Oil seal 1
2 Circlip 1
3 Bearing Housing 1
4 Circlip 1
5 Bearing 1
6 Circlip 1
7 Bearing 1 For installation, reverse the order
8 Clutch Housing 1 listed

4‐28
 Engine

Inspect the clutch

• Inspect the clutch housing (1) Look
for heat damage or wear. Some
grooves are expected. A blackened
O.D. is a sign of excessive heat.
• Inspect the one way clutch bearing
(2). Look for chaffing, wear or
damage.
Inspect the clutch shoe assembly
Note:
If any damage is found replace the one Look for heat damage.
way clutch bearing and clutch housing
as a set. For installation the one way Measure the clutch shoe thickness
clutch bearing must be installed with
the arrow facing inward toward the Clutch shoe wear limit (a) 1.0 mm
housing.

Install
• Clutch carrier assembly
• Nut (1) 160 Nm or 118 ft lbs. Apply
high strength thread locker (Loctite
242 or equivalent.
• Swage nut to crankshaft.

Use a universal clutch holder (2) to hold

Inspection of the one way clutch bearing. the carrier assembly.

• Install the one way clutch bearing Lock the threads with a drift punch.
and clutch carrier assembly to the
clutch housing and hold the clutch
carrier assembly.
• When turning the clutch housing
clockwise (A), the clutch housing
should turn freely. If it doesn’t, the
one way bearing is defective and
needs to be replaced.

4‐29
 Engine

Install
• Dowel pins
• Gasket
• Clutch housing assembly

10 Nm or 7 ft lbs

Tighten the bolts in stages, using a

cross pattern.
After tightening check the operation
of the clutch housing assembly that
it rotates counterclockwise
smoothly.

4‐30
 Engine
Crankcase

Starter motor and oil filter

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Remove the starter motor, timing Remove the parts in the order listed
chain and oil filter

A.C. magneto rotor

Primary and secondary sheaves
Clutch carrier assembly
1 1/1
Starter Motor / O-ring
2 Oil Filter / O-ring 1
3 Oil Line assembly / O-ring 1/2
4 Oil Line adapter / O-ring 1/1
5 Relief valve assembly 1
6 Speed sensor 1
7 Shift drum stopper 1
8 Gear position switch 1
9 Reverse switch 1
10 Oil filler cap 1 For installation, reverse the order
11 Oil line 1 1 listed

4‐31
 Engine
Crankcase

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Separating the crankcase Remove the parts in the order listed

1 Shift lever cover / gasket 1/1

2 Dowel pin 1
3 Shift lever 1 1
4 Shift lever 2 assembly 1
5 Right crankcase half 1
6 Dowel pin 1
7 Left crankcase half 1
8 Spacer 1
9 Crankshaft seal 1 For installation, reverse the order listed

4‐32
 Engine
Crankcase Bearings

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the crankcase bearings Remove the parts in the order
listed
Crankshaft and oil pump
Transmission
Middle drive / driven shaft
1 O-ring / collar 1/1
2 Oil seal 1
3 Bearing retainer 1 For installation, reverse the order
4 Bearing 9 listed

4‐33
 Engine
Inspect Assembling the crankcase
1.Oil Line
Look for cracks or damage. 1.Apply sealant (Quick gasket) (1)
To the mating surfaces of both
halves. Use only a thin bead of
sealant.

2.Install the dowel pins (2)

3.Fit the left crankcase half onto the

2. Relief Valve (1)
right crankcase half. Tap lightly on
3.Spring (2)
the case with a soft hammer.
Look for damage or wear.

4.Crankcase. Thoroughly wash the case

halves in a mild solvent.
Clean all the gasket surfaces and
crankcase mating surfaces thoroughly.
Look for cracks or damage.

5.Inspect oil delivery passages

Look for clogs, blow out with
compressed air.

6.Bearings.
Clean and lubricate. Check
operation. Check for
smoothness in operation.

4‐34
 Engine

4.Tighten the crankcase bolts (1) in a

cross pattern in stages. Installing the shift levers

10 Nm or 7 ft lbs 1.Shift lever 2 assembly (1)

5.Apply sealant (4) to crankcase bolt 14 Nm or 10 ft lbs

(2) And install
2.Shift lever 1 (2)
10 Nm or 7 ft lbs

6.Tighten the crankcase bolts (3)

26 Nm or 19 ft lbs

Left Crankcase

Note:
When installing the shift lever 1, align
the punch mark (a) on the shift lever 1
with the punch mark (b) on the shift
lever 2.

Right Crankcase

Caution:
Before installing and torque is applied,
be sure to check that the transmission
is functioning properly by rotating the
shift drum manually in both directions.

4‐35
 Engine

Crankshaft and Oil Pump

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the crankshaft and Oil Remove the parts in the order
Pump listed

1 Crankcase separation 1/1

2 Oil Strainer / O-ring 1/1
3 Oil pump assembly / gasket 1
4 Balancer 1
5 Plate 1 For installation, reverse the
6 Relief valve assembly 1 order listed.
Crankshaft

4‐36
 Engine

Oil Pump

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Disassembling the oil pump Remove the parts in the order listed

1 Rotor cover 1
2 Pin 2
3 Shaft 1
4 Pin 1
5 Inner rotor 1
6 Outer rotor 1 For installation, reverse the order
7 Oil Pump housing 1 listed

4‐37
 Engine

Inspect the oil pump

1.Rotor housing
2.Rotor cover

Look for cracks, wear or damage.

3.Oil pump operation Tip clearance Limit: 0.23 mm

Side clearance Limit: 0.17 mm
Look for smoothness Body clearance Limit: 0.24 mm

4.Inspect the oil strainer (1) Measure the crankshaft

O-Ring (2)
1.Crank width (A)
Look for damage or contamination
clean with engine oil. Crank width 74.95 ~ 75.00 mm

2.Side Clearance (D)

Big end side clearance

Limit: 1.0 mm (0.0394 in)

3.Run out (b) (C)

Measure the oil pump

1.Tip clearance (a) Run out limit (b): 0.03 mm (C): 0.03 mm
Between the inner rotor (1) and the
outer rotor (2)

2.Side clearance (b)

Between the outer rotor (2) and the
pump housing (3)

3.Body clearance (c)

Between the outer rotor (2) and the
pump housing (3)

4‐38
 Engine

• The crankshaft (1) and the crank

pin (2) oil passageways must be
properly aligned with a tolerance of
less than 1mm or 0.04in.

Caution:
The buffer boss and woodruff key
should be replaced whenever removed
from the crankshaft.

Install
• Assemble the oil pump

Inner rotor
Outer rotor
Oil pump shaft
(With the recommended lubricant)

Install the crankshaft and balancer

Note:
Hold the connecting rod at Top dead
Center (TDC) with one hand while
turning the nut of the adjusting tool
with the other. Tighten until the
crankshaft bottoms against the bearing.

4‐39
 Engine

Transmission

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the transmission Remove the parts in the order listed

Crankcase separation
Middle driven gear Low
1 1
wheel gear
2 Shift drum 1
3 Shift fork assembly 1
4 Short spring 1
5 Shift fork 1 1
6 Long spring 1
7 Shift fork 2 1
8 Guide bar 1
9 Secondary shaft 1
10 Drive axle assembly 1
11 Chain 1 For installation, reverse the order listed

4‐40
 Engine

Drive Axle Assembly

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Disassembling the Drive axle Remove the parts in the order listed

1 Clutch dog 1
2 High wheel gear 1
3 Middle drive gear 1
4 Driven sprocket 1 For installation, reverse the order
5 Drive axle 1 listed

4‐41
 Engine

Inspect the shift forks • Springs

1.Shift fork follower (1)
Look for cracks or damage.
2.Shift fork pawl (2)

Look for scoring, bends, wear or

damage.

• Shift drum

Inspect the grooves

Look for scratches, wear or
damage.
3.Guide bar
• High wheel gear and middle
Roll the guide bar on a flat surface. drive gear
Look for bends.
Check gear teeth
Look for discoloration, pitting or
wear.

Mated dogs

Look for rounded edges, cracks or

missing portions.

Do not attempt to straighten a bent Gear movement

guide bar.
Look for smooth movement.
4.Shift fork movement on
the guide bar. Cir clips

Look for smooth movement. Look for bends, looseness or

damage.

If replacement is necessary, replace as a

set.

4‐42
 Engine

Inspect the secondary shaft and driven Install

sprocket. • Assembling the shift fork
• Gear teeth
Guide bar (1)
Look for discoloration, pitting or Shift fork (2)
wear. Long Spring (3)
Shift fork (4)
• Gear movement Short Spring (5)

Look for smooth operation.

• Cir clips

Look for bends, looseness or

damage.

• Chain
Installing the transmission
Look for cracks, stretch or wear.
• Chain(1)
• Drive shaft assembly(2)
• Secondary Shaft(3)
• Shift fork assembly(4)
• Shift drum(5)
• Low wheel gear
Measure the shaft run out

Use a truing stand and a dial

gauge.

Shaft run out limit 0.06 mm
Note:
Oil each gear and bearing thoroughly
before assembling be sure the
transmission is in neutral and that the
gears turn freely.

4‐43
 Engine

Middle Gear

Middle drive shaft

Stake nut during

installation

No. Part Name Removing Qty Remarks

the middle drive shaft Remove the parts in the order listed

1 Crankcase separation
1
Bearing Housing
2 Middle drive gear 1
3 Nut 1
4 Middle drive pinion gear 1
5 Shim 1
6 Middle drive shaft 1 For installation, reverse the order
7 Bearing retainer 2 listed

4‐44
 Engine

Middle Driven Shaft

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the middle drive shaft Remove the parts in the order listed.

Crankcase separation
1 1
Drive shaft coupling
2 Cir clip 2
3 Bearing 2
4 Universal joint 1
5 Universal joint yoke 1
6 Bearing housing / O-ring 1/1
7 Shim 1
8 Middle driven pinion gear 1
9 Bearing retainer 1
10 Bearing retainer 1 For installation, reverse the order
11 Middle driven shaft 1 listed

4‐45
 Engine
Inspect the pinion gears
• Drive pinion gear(1)
• Driven pinion gear(2)
Look at the teeth for pitting, galling
or wear
• O-ring
Replace
• Bearings
Look for pitting or damage.
• Universal joint movement
Look for smooth movement.
Selecting the middle drive and driven gear
shims.
• Check gear lash
Middle drive gear shim (1)
Middle driven gear shim (2)
Middle gear lash 0.1 ~ 0.3 mm
4‐46
Measure gear lash
• Temporarily install the left
crankcase half.
• Wrap a rag around a screwdriver
and insert it into the right crankcase
speed sensor hole to hold the
middle driven gear.
• Attach a dial gauge.
6.7 mm or 0.26 in
Measure at four points rotating 90
degrees each time.
If gear lash is incorrect adjust by
changing the shims.
Installing the middle driven shaft
• Bearing retainer(1)
Bearing retainer 80 Nm or 59 ft lbs
Attach the ring nut wrench (2)
Caution:
The middle driven shaft bearing
Retainer has left handed threads,
to tighten turn it counterclockwise.
 Engine

Universal joint
• Place a rag in a vise(2) • Install the opposite yoke onto the
• Secure the bearing housing universal joint.
• Attach the bearing retainer wrench • Apply wheel bearing grease to the
(3) bearings
• Tighten the bearing retainer • Install the bearing (1) onto the yoke.

Bearing retainer 110Nm or 81 ft lbs

Install shims so that the tabs are

positioned as shown in illustration.

• Universal joint yoke

• Washer Caution:
• Nut(1) Check each bearing. The needles can
easily fall out of the races. Slide the
Use the universal joint holder (2) to yoke back and forth on the bearings.
hold the yoke. The yoke will not go all the way onto a
bearing if a needle is out of place.
Universal joint yoke nut
150 Nm or 110 ft lbs • Press each bearing into the
universal joint using a suitable
socket. Press in far enough for the
cir clip to fit into the groove.

• Install the cir clip (2) into the groove.

4‐47
 Engine

• Drive Shaft coupling

• Washer
• Nut(1)

Note:
Use the coupling gear / middle shaft
tool (2) to hold the drive shaft coupling.

Nut Torque 97 Nm or 71 ft lbs

Install the middle drive shaft

• Tighten the middle pinion gear nut

(1) to 145 Nm or 107 ft lbs

• Lock the threads with a drift punch.

4‐48
 Chassis
Inspection
Appearance Inspection
1. Plastic body panels damaged
• Replace with new plastic
body panel
• Check for any supports that
may be damaged, deformed.
• Install new warning labels
and decals.
2. Bumper Damaged
• Replace with a new bumper
• Check for any supports that
may be damaged or
deformed, or if repainting is
necessary before installation
of the new bumper.
3. Skid plate damage
• Replace with a new skid
plate
• Check the gearbox and
differential of the front and
rear axle for damage or
leakage.
Brake System Inspection
1. Locked up brake system
• Inspect the brake rotors for
excessive runout.
• Inspect the brake calipers
and brake levers for damage,
corrosion or deformity.
5‐1
2. Loss of Brake performance
• Check for brake rotor
wear. Has it exceeded
the wear limit.
• Check for brake pad
wear. Is the master
cylinder locked up? Has
debris gotten into the
pad area?
3. Grinding Noise or Brake disc
Glowing red during use.
• Check the brake rotor
for damage or
deformity.
• Check brake linkages
for damage.
• Check brake master
cylinder for damage or
debris causing a locked
up condition.
• Check brake Pads for
wear, damage, or
debris.
• Rear Brake, check the
parking brake linkage,
for damage or debris.
4. Brakes pulling to the side at
high speed braking.
• Check if the front brake
activation is even left
and right.
• Check if the rear wheels
are locking up before
the front wheels.
• Check that the adjusters
on the front shocks are
at the same level.
 Chassis
Inspection
• Check the front wheel and
axle nut for damage or
looseness.
• Check the wheel splines for
damage or wear.
• Check the rubber dampers
for the anti-sway bar for
damage or wear.
5. Steering wheel feels loose
and moves up and down.
• Check whether the steering
wheel clip has loosened or is
damaged.
• Check if the steering column
clip or attachment seat are
damaged or have loosened.
• Check the steering column
bottom end bearing for
damage.
• Check that the gas spring
is holding column in
position.
6. Front wheel turns excessive.
• Check if the tie rod and
steering column locknut has
loosened or is damaged.
• Check if the steering knuckle
loosened or is damaged.
• Check the tie rods and ball
joints for damage.
7. Front wheel sway during
driving.
• Check for damage to the
steering knuckle bearing.
• Check if the ball joint is
damaged.
• Check if the front wheel axle
nut is loose or damaged.
5‐2
• Check the front wheel
splines for damage or
wear.
• Check the rubber dampers
on the anti-sway bar for
damage or wear.
8. Rear wheel noise during
driving.
• Check if the rear axle
bearing is damaged.
• Check if the sliding bearing
connected to the rear axle
bearing housing and rocker
is damaged or has loosened.
• Check if the rear wheel axle
nut has loosened or is
damaged.
• Check the rear wheel splines
for damage or wear.
• Check if the rubber dampers
connected to the rear swing
arms are damaged or worn.
9. Wheel Hop during driving.
• Check the rim for damage or
deformity.
• Check for a bent front or rear
axle.
• Check the tires for bulging or
wear.
10. Shock absorber became
soft.
• Check for overloading.
• Check for damage to the
shock spring.
• Check for leakage of shock
fluid.
 Chassis

Inspection

11. Abnormal noise from front

or rear axle area.

• Check the wheel splines for

damage or wear.
• Check the splines on the mid
shaft for damage or wear.
• Check the gears of the front
gearbox and differential for
wear or damage.
• Check the gears of the rear
gearbox for wear or damage.
• Check the CV joint
rubber boot for damage.
• Check the Universal joint for
damage or wear.

12. Failure to shift into four-

wheel drive or differential
lock position.

• Test the switch operation.

• Check the electrical
connections at the switch
and at the differential locking
motor.
• Check if the differential motor
is locked up or damaged.

5‐3
 Chassis

Steering System

Remarks

No. Part Name Qty

Removing the steering assembly
1 Rack assembly 1
2 Pinion 1
3 Circlip 1
4 Bearing 1
5 Adjuster 1
6 Spring 1
7 Pressure pad 1
8 Circlip 1
9 Oil seal 1
10 Zip TieL-200 2
11 Dust Boots 2
12 Flange Bolt 10mm X 30mm 4
13 Tie Rod end 2
14 Locknut 10mm 2
15 Steering Joint 1
16 Flange Bolt 8mm X 20mm 2
17 Castle nut 2
18 Pin 2
19 Zip Tie 2

5‐4
 Chassis

Steering Wheel assembly

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the steering
Wheel assembly

1 Hex Socket Bolt 5mm X 16mm 6

2 Steering Wheel Cap 1
3 Horn Switch 1
4 Steering Wheel 1
5 Flange nut 12mm X 1.25 1
6 Steering Wheel Hub 1

5‐5
 Chassis

Disassembly of the steering wheel Warning:

assembly This is a safety area, and any damage
or wear needs to be repaired
1. Remove immediately.
• screw M5×16 ① Do not let vehicle leave without proper
• Decoration cover for steering repairs being performed.
wheel ②
• Horn assembly ③ Disassembly of the steering column
a. Remove the screw ① assembly
b. Remove the decoration cover for steering
1. Remove
wheel ② and horn assembly ③
• Engine covers ①
c. Use the special tools pull out the steering
• Connection covers part ②
wheel ④.
• Steering wheel cover ③
• Display board ④
• Steering wheel ⑤

2. Inspect
• Steering shaft(1)
• Steering wheel(2)
• Washer(3) • 4, 8mm X 16mm bolts (1) that
• Flange nut(4) attach steering column (2) to
the frame.

Inspect the splines on the steering shaft

and steering wheel. Look for damage or
wear. 2. Inspect
Inspect the steering wheel for damage or • Steering column tube(1)
wear to the wheel covering. • Bearing(2)
This is a safety area, and any damage • Bearing Fitment of the steering
or wear needs to be repaired shaft(3)
immediately. • Splines(4)

5‐6
 Chassis

• Up and Down movement 2. Inspect the Steering Knuckle

• In and out movement
• Steering joint(1)
• Turn direction

Check for smooth operation.

For bearing fitment check for excessive

play up and down or in and out.

Check the splines on both ends of the

shaft for wear or damage.

Check the welds on the steering column 3. Inspect the Dust boots
tube for cracks or corrosion.
• Pressure Pad(1)
Disassembling the steering shaft • Dust boots(2)
assembly.
Look for wear or damage.
1. Checking and servicing the
Universal joints on the steering
shaft.
• Bearing(1)
• Cir clip(2)
• Oil seal(3)
• Cross axis(4)
When replacing the dust boots fill halfway
with Lithium grease.
Inspect for smooth operation.
Replace any parts with wear or damage.
4. Inspect the Tie Rod Ends

• Tie rod end(1)

• Turning(2)
• Coupling(3)

5‐7
 Chassis

5. Inspect the Tie Rods 1. Install the rack and pinion assembly to the
frame.
• Look for bends or damage. Bolt M10×30
48 Nm (4.8m · kg,35 ft · lbs)
6. Inspect the steering Joint
Nut M10
• Look for cracks or distortion.
40 Nm (4.0m · kg,29 ft · lbs)

2. Connect the steering Joint

Bolt M8×20
32 Nm (3.2m · kg,23 ft · lbs)

3. Attach the steering Tube to the

frame.
Bolt M8×20
32 Nm (3.2m · kg,23 ft · lbs)

4. Attach the steering wheel and cover

Steering wheel Nut

7. Inspect the rack and pinion gear Torque 48 Nm(4.8m
· kg,35 ft · lbs)
• Check the splines on the
end of the shaft for wear or
damage.
• Check the gear teeth of the
pinion shaft and mating
surface of the rack for wear
or damage.
• Measure backlash of the
rack and pinion.

5‐8
 Chassis
3. Check for spongy feel of the pedal If
The Brake System feel becomes soft, a brake fluid change
is necessary or the system needs to be
The brake system is crucial to bled of air. When bleeding be sure to
keep the reservoir full so not to allow
the safety of the operator and
more air into the system.
passengers, therefore must be
periodically inspected and
4. Check the rear brake disc (1) for
maintained.
thickness (2).
This vehicle uses the double
return route hydraulic pressure
disc brake system.
Please follow the tips of inspection below.

1. Check the Brake Fluid level in

the Brake reservoir. If it is low
add the correct amount DOT 3
brake fluid to ensure the level
is above the minimum mark.

Brake disc’s wear as well as brake pads

2. Check the brake pedal front edge height to
floorboard. It should be set between 75 and
85mm. If out of spec adjust to meet the required
travel distance.
therefore a periodic inspection may reveal
scoring, or wear to a disc. Replacement is
necessary if this is found.
5. Check the brake lines for cracks or
distortion.

5‐9
 Chassis

Front Disc Brake Components

No. Part Name Removing Qty Remarks

the front Brake line attachment
hardware

1 Belt 3 (L – 150) 2
2 Belt 4 (L – 200) 4
3 Belt 6 (L – 150) 4
4 Bolt 6mm X 30mm 1
5 Bolt 6mm X 20mm 1
6 Disc brake line clip 3
7 Flange bolt 6mm X 20mm 4
8 Wire Clip fixed plate 2
9 Brake line assembly 1

5‐10
 Chassis

Front Disc Brakes

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the brake discs

1 Brake Caliper assembly 1

2 Brake Disc 1
3 Bolt 4
4 Axle housing 4
5 Bolt 4
6 Brake disc guard 1

5‐11
 Chassis

Inspect the Front Brake Discs

• Inspect for galling or damage

• Measure brake disc runout.

Brake disc runout.

0.10 mm (0.004 in)

• Brake disc thickness (1)

• Wheel Hub (2)
• Rim (3)

Brake disc minimum thickness

3.0 mm (0.12 in)

5‐12
 Chassis

Front Brake Pads

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the front brake pads Remove parts in the order listed

1 Brake caliper mounting bolt 2

2 Brake pad holding bolt 2
3 Brake pad 2 For installation, reverse the order
4 Pad spring 1 listed

5‐13
 Chassis

Replacing the Front Brake Pads • Install the retaining bolts and Brake
caliper.
It is not necessary to disassemble the
brake caliper and brake hose to replace Brake pad holding bolt 18
the brake pads. Nm (1.8 m · kg, 13 ft · lbs)
Brake caliper mounting bolt
1. Measure
• Brake Pad Wear(a) 48 Nm (4.8 m · kg, 35 ft · lbs)

Brake pad wear limit 3. Check brake pedal operation

1.5 mm (0.06 in) Look for spongy feel. If you find
poor pedal performance it may be
necessary to bleed the air out of the
brake system.

2. Install

Before installing new brake pads it is

necessary to push the piston back into the
body of the caliper. This can be done by
opening the cap of the Brake fluid
reservoir, installing a C clamp of
appropriate size around the caliper and
squeezing the piston back into the caliper.
(Watch the Brake fluid level in the
reservoir so you don’t overflow the
reservoir). After the Pads Have been
installed be sure to fill the reservoir with
the proper brake fluid so that it is above
the minimum level.

• Brake pad spring

• Brake Pads

Always replace Brake pads as a set with a

new Brake pad spring.

Brake caliper bleed screw

6 Nm (0.6 m · kg, 4.3 ft ·
lbs)

5‐14
 Chassis
Front brake caliper

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the front brake caliper Remove the parts in the order
listed
Brake fluid
1 Union bolt 1
2 Copper washer 2
3 Brake hose 1
4 Brake Pad holding bolt 2
5 Brake caliper mounting bolt 2 For installation, reverse the order
6 Brake caliper assembly 1 listed

5‐15
 Chassis

Brake Caliper Disassembly

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Disassembling the front brake caliper Remove the parts in the order
listed
1 Brake pad holding bolt 2
2 Brake pad 2
3 Pad spring 1
4 Brake caliper piston 1
5 Dust seal 2
6 Caliper Piston seal 2 For installation, reverse the
7 Bleed screw 2 order listed.

5‐16
 Chassis

Disassembling the front brake calipers 3. Inspect

• Brake caliper pistons (1)
1. Remove the brake caliper pistons
look for scratches, rust or wear.
Blow compressed air into the hose
joint opening to force out the caliper • Brake caliper cylinders (2)
piston.
look for scratches or wear.
Warning:
Never try to pry out the caliper pistons. • Brake caliper body (3)
Place a rag where the pads usually sit
and use compressed air to blow them Look for cracks or damage.
out. Be careful not to have fingers or
hand inside the caliper when • Brake fluid passages
performing this procedure, injury can
occur when the piston is expelled from Blow out with compressed air.
the caliper.

2. Remove the dust seals (1) Always replace the seals whenever the
And caliper piston seals (2). caliper is disassembled.

Installation

1. Caliper piston seals(1)

2. Dust seals(2)

All internal brake components should be

cleaned with new brake fluid only. Do not
use solvents because this will damage the
seals.

5‐17
 Chassis

3. Install the brake caliper pistons(1) Caution:

Brake fluid will damage painted
surfaces and plastic parts. Always
clean up spills immediately.

Installing the Front Brake calipers

1. Install
• Brake caliper assembly
• Brake caliper mounting bolts

48Nm (4.8m · kg,35 ft · lb)

• Brake hose(1)
• Copper Washers(2)
• Union bolt(3)

Note:
When installing the brake hose be sure
that the brake fitting touches the stop
(a) on the brake caliper.

2. Fill the brake fluid reservoir

Must use DOT3 Brake Fluid

3. Bleed the air out of the brake

system.

4. Add brake fluid to above the

minimum level indicated on the
reservoir.

5‐18
 Chassis

Rear Brake Disc

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the Rear brake disc Remove the parts in the order listed

Brake caliper assembly

Final drive gear For installation, reverse the order
1 Rear brake disc 1 listed

5‐19
 Chassis

Inspecting the Rear Brake Disc

1. Inspect the disc

Look for galling or damage

2. Measure the rear brake disc

deflection

Brake disc maximum deflection

0.10 mm (0.004 in)

3. Measure the Brake disc thickness

(a).

Brake disc minimum thickness

4.5 mm (0.18 in)

5‐20
 Chassis

Rear Brake Caliper and Brake Pads

No. Part Name Removing Qty

the rear brake caliper and brake pads

1 Adjusting Screw 1
2 Hex Flange Nut 1
3 Parking arm 1
4 Parking Brake Plunger Assembly 1
5 Parking Cable Bracket 1
6 Tension Spring 1
7 Tension spring mounting plate 1
8 Lower Slide Shaft Rubber Cover 1
9 Lower Slide Shaft 1
10 Spring Washer 1
11 Support Plate 1
12 Brake Shoe Spring Plate 1
13 Outside Brake Pad 1
14 Caliper Housing 1
15 Dust Seal 1

5‐21
 Chassis

Rear Brake Caliper and Brake Pads

No. Part Name Qty

16 Piston 1
17 Cone Compression Spring 1
18 Inside Brake Pad 1
19 Pad Guide pin 2
20 Ball Bearing 3
21 Parking brake case bolt 2
22 Sliding shaft rubber cover 1
23 Mounting Bracket Bolts 2
24 Ball Bearing 3
25 Dust seal 1
26 Guide pin 1

5‐22
 Chassis

Replacing the Rear Brake Pads Warning:

All internal brake components should
1. Measure the brake pad thickness be cleaned in new brake fluid only. Do
(a) not use solvents as they will cause
Brake pad wear limit seals to swell and distort.
1.5 mm (0.06 in)
2. Inspect
• Brake caliper pistons (1)

look for scratches or wear.

• Brake caliper cylinders (2)

2. Install Brake pad spring and Brake look for scratches or wear.
pads.
• Brake caliper body (3)
Always install new brake pads, shims,
insulators and pad springs as a set. look for cracks or damage.

3. Check brake fluid level. • Brake fluid passages

4. Check the Brake pedal operation. Blow out with compressed

air.
Disassembling the rear brake caliper

1. Remove the brake caliper piston(1)

• Dust seal(2)
• Caliper piston seal(3)

Turn the brake caliper piston

counterclockwise to remove it.
All internal brake components should be
cleaned with new brake fluid before
installation.

Must use DOT3 Brake Fluid

Always replace caliper piston seals and

dust seal whenever the caliper is
disassembled.

5‐23
 Chassis
Assembling the Rear Brake Caliper
1. Install the caliper piston seal (1) and
the dust seal(2).
Apply lithium-soap-based grease to the
parking brake arm shaft and set bolt.
2. Install the brake caliper piston
Turn the brake caliper piston
clockwise until section (a) of the
piston is level with the surface of
the caliper body.
Note:
Align an end (b) of the groove in the
brake piston with the punch mark (c)
On the caliper body.
3. Install the gasket (1), the parking
brake case (2), the parking brake
case bolts (3), and the O-ring (4).
Parking Brake case bolt torque
22Nm (2.2 m · kg,16 ft · lbs)
5‐24
4. Install the parking brake arm shaft
(1), Parking brake arm (2), set bolt
(3), and parking brake arm nut (4).
• Screw the parking brake arm
shaft counterclockwise
completely so that the punch
mark (a) on the parking
brake arm shaft is between
the alignment marks (b).
• Turn the parking brake arm
shaft approximately 60
degrees clockwise.
• Install the parking brake arm
on the shaft so that the
punch mark (c) on the arm is
aligned with the punch mark
(a) On the arm shaft.
• Turn the parking brake arm
until it contacts the pin (d).
• Finger tighten the set bolt
• Tighten the parking brake
arm nut.
 Chassis

5. Install the brake pad (piston side) 3. Bleed the brake system
(1)(with insulator and pad shim)
4. Check for proper brake fluid level in
• Align the projection (a) on the piston the reservoir.
side of the brake pad with the
groove in the caliper piston. • Above the minimum
level mark

5. Adjust the parking brake cable free

play.

6. Install the brake pad holding bolts.

17Nm (1.7 m · kg,12 ft ·

lbs) Installing the Rear Brake

Caliper

1. Install the brake caliper with the

mounting bolts.

40Nm (4.0m · kg,29 ft · lbs)

• Brake hose(1)
• Copper washers
• Union bolt(2)
48Nm (4.8m · kg,35 ft · lbs)

2. Tighten the union bolt while holding

the brake hose as shown in this
illustration.

5‐25
 Chassis

Brake Master Cylinder

No. Part Name Qty Remarks Remove

Removing the Brake Master Cylinder the parts in the order listed.

Brake Fluid Drain

1 Brake Fluid Reservoir cap 1

2 Brake Fluid Reservoir diaphragm 1
3 Brake Fluid Reservoir float 1
4 Union bolt 1
5 Copper washer 2
6 Brake hose 1 Disconnect
7 Brake Line 1 Disconnect
8 Brake Master cylinder 1
9 Brake Hose 1 Disconnect
For installation, reverse the order
listed.

5‐26
 Chassis

Inspecting the Brake Master Cylinder 2. Install the Brake line

1. Inspect 19Nm (1.9 m · kg,13 ft · lbs)

• Brake Master Cylinder (1).
3. Install the copper washers, Brake
Look for scratches or wear.
Hose and Union bolt.
27Nm (2.7 m · kg,19 ft · lbs)

4. Fill the reservoir.

Must use DOT3 Brake Fluid

5. Bleed the Brake system.

6. Recheck the Brake fluid level
• Brake Master Cylinder body above the minimum Level mark.
7. Adjust the brake pedal free play.
Look for cracks or damage.

• Brake Fluid passages

Blow out with compressed

air.

• Brake Fluid Reservoir(1)

• Brake Fluid Reservoir
diaphragm (2).

Look for cracks or damage.

Installing the Brake Master Cylinder

1. Install the Brake Master cylinder

16Nm (1.6 m · kg,11 ft · lbs)

5‐27
 Chassis

Footrest Assembly

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the footrest
1 Footrest 1
2 Seating support Ⅰ 1
3 Seating support Ⅱ 1
4 Cover battery 1
5 Cover engine 1
6 Cover battery box 1
7 Front panel footrest 1
8 Washer rubber 8×17 6
9 Side Pane l(front left) 1
10 Side Panel (middle left) 1
11 Side protector (left) 1
12 Side Panel (middle right) 1
13 Side Panel (front right) 1
14 Side protector (right) 1

5‐28
 Chassis

Footrest Assembly

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

15 Nut flange head M6 1
16 Fender (rear left) 1
17 Fender (rear right) 1
18 Lock battery box cover 1
19 Washer rubber 1
20 Lock engine cover 1
21 Screw cross head self drilling ST3.9×13 8
22 Screw thread clip M6×2 43
23 Bolt hexagon socket M6×16 46
24 Bolt hexagon socket M6×20 4
25 Screw cross large head M6×16 21
26 Turn lamp (front left) 1
27 Turn lamp (front right) 1
28 Strap starter relay plated 1
29 Bolt hexagon flange head M6×16 1

5‐29
 Chassis

Front Wheel and Tire

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the front wheel
1 Front rim 2
2 Front tire 2
3 Nut M10 8
4 Wheel decoration cover 2
5 Nut M22×1.5 2
6 Front hub 2
7 cotter pin 3.2×50 2
8 Bolt M10×30 4

5‐30
 Chassis

Rear wheel

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the rear wheel
1 Rear rim 2
2 Rear tire 2
3 Rear hub 2
4 Bolt M10×30 4
5 Nut M10 8
6 Wheel decoration cover 2
7 Nut M22×1.5 2
8 Cotter pin 3.2×50 2

5‐31
 Chassis
Inspect the Rim
1. Measure run out
Look for bends or damage.
Check wheel bearing endplay.
Wheel run out limit
Radial ②: 2.0 mm (0.08 in)
Lateral ③: 2.0 mm (0.08 in)
Check wheel balance.
Inspect the wheel hub
• Wheel Hub(1)
Look for cracks or damage.
• Splines(2)
Look for wear or damage.
5‐32
Installing the wheel hub
• Axle nut
260 Nm (26.0 m · kg, 190 ft · lb)
Installing the Wheel assembly
1. Install the wheel with the arrow on
the tire pointing toward the front of
the UTV.
2. Install the tapered lug nuts.
Torque 55 Nm or 40 ft lbs.
Warning:
Wheels and tires are critical to the safe
operation of the UTV. Periodic
inspection of tire air pressure and tread
depth are necessary to ensure stability
and lifespan of the tire. An improperly
inflated tire can cause excessive tire
wear and loss of traction, instability
and hard turning.
Tire Pressure
Front 90 Kpa or 14 psi
Rear 90 Kpa or 14 psi
 Chassis

Transmission System Front Bridge

No. Part Name Qty

1 Cir clip 1
2 CV Joint 2
3 Cir clip 1
4 Cir clip 2
5 Boot band 2
6 Dust boot 2
7 Boot band 2
8 Joint shaft 1
9 Half axle assembly 1

5‐33
 Chassis

Front Bridge

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the front bridge
1 Front differential assy 1
2 Front differential case 1
3 Front differential case 1
4 Drive & driven gears assy(with rear differential status) 1
5 Connection fork Ⅰ 1
6 Hexagon flange nut m14×1.5 1
7 O-type ring 6.8×14 1
8 Oil seal 48×65×9 1
9 Oil seal 24×38×8 2
10 Washer Ⅰ50×61.5 1

5‐34
 Chassis

Front Bridge

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

11 Socket hexagon screw M8×25 2
12 Connection fork Ⅱ 1
13 Socket hexagon screw M8×10 1
14 Hexagon flange bolt M10×1.25×15 1
15 Clip D0=62 1
16 Pin 5×75 1
17 Transfer case assembly 1
18 Divide device connection 1
19 Rack 1
20 O-ring 2×81,transfer case 1
21 O-ring 2.62×139.37, front tank cover 1
22 Bearing 35×62×14 1

5‐35
 Chassis

Front Bridge

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

23 Bearing 60×85×13 1
24 Bearing 35×62×9 1
25 Rolling bearing 15×21×12 1
26 Screw 1
27 Copper washer 13×1.5 1
28 Hexagon flange nut M10×1.25 1
29 Shaft fork Ⅳ 6
30 Clamp 20-32 1
31 Universal joint 1
32 Clip D0=62 1
33 Vent pipe l=700 1
34 Oil pipe clip 8 1
35 Cross shaft (20) 1

5‐36
 Chassis

Front Bridge

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

36 Front transmission shaft 1
37 Cir clip D0=19 2
38 Cir clip 20×26×1 2
39 Spring 25×2.3×28 2
40 Hexagon flange bolt M8×28 6
Front dustproof rubber cover 19×38×50,
41 2
front transmission shaft
42 Hexagon flange bolt M10×1.25×30 2
43 Hexagon flange bolt M10×1.25×142 1
44 Block ring 4
45 Front transmission shaft comp 1
46 Sliding sleeve 1
47 O-ring 1.5×9 1

5‐37
 Chassis

Disassembling the front bridge

1. Remove the left and right front

wheels.
2. Remove the front disc brake clip,
Cotter pin, open-groove nut,
cushion and front wheel hub.
3. Disassemble the left and right
rocker arm and cross steering
knuckle.
4. Disassemble the differential. 4. Repeat the process for the opposite
5. Remove the front bridge from the side.
frame. 5. Remove the yoke.
6. Remove the oil from the differential.
7. Pull out the left and right Removing the differential gear
transmission shaft from the assembly
differential.
1. Remove the differential gear
assembly
Note:
The ring gear and the differential gear
should be fastened together. Do not
disassemble the differential gear
assembly.

Checking the CV Joints

Disassembling the Universal joint
1. Inspect the dust boots
1. Remove the Universal joint Look for cracks, splits or damage.
2. Remove the cir clips(1)

2. Inspect the double off-set spline,

Ball joint spline, and shaft spline.
3. Place a pipe (2)(Correct size to Look for wear or damage.
collect outside diameter of the
bearing) beneath the yoke (3), and
press the bearing (4) into the pipe
as shown.

5‐38
 Chassis

3. Inspect the balls and ball races. 6. Inspect the front driveshaft.

Look for pitting, wear or damage. Look for bends.

Check the movement of the joint is
smooth in all directions, in and out 7. Inspect the torque limiter.
and round.
Look for looseness.

Before assembly,
Apply lithium grease to the oil seal, front
box output shaft and oil seal, front input
shaft and differential gear assembly.

4. All components should be cleaned Checking the operation of the Gear

before assembly. Motor

Do not use chemicals on the dust boots,
for cleaning use only hot soapy water.
When reassembling the balls and ball
cage fill with approximately 2/3 volume of
lithium grease.
1. Remove the gear motor from the
case.
2. Connect two C size batteries to the
gear motor terminals (1).
Do not use 12V battery to check
the motor.

Inspecting the Differential Gear Check that the motor turns

counterclockwise. (1)
1. Inspect Gear teeth.

Look for pitting, galling or wear.

2. Inspect the bearings.

Look for pitting or damage.

3. Inspect the oil seals and O-rings.

Check that the motor turns
Look for damage. clockwise. (2)

4. Inspect the drive shaft splines,

universal joints and the drive pinion
gear splines.

Look for wear or damage.

5. Inspect the spring.

Look for fatigue.

5‐39
 Chassis
Assembling the Universal joint
1. Place the universal joint into the
yoke.
2. Apply wheel bearing grease to the
bearings and place the bearing (1)
onto the yoke.
3. Press the bearing into the universal
joint using a socket of suitable size.
Note
The bearing must be inserted far
enough into the universal joint so that
the cir clip can be installed.
4. Install the cir clips (2) into
the grooves in each bearing.
5‐40
Assembly of the Differential Gear
1. Slide the differential gear all the
way to the right to put it into the 2
WD mode.
2. Connect two C size batteries to the
gear motor terminal (1) to rotate the
pinion gear (2) until the paint mark
(3) is aligned with the paint mark (4)
on the gear motor case.
Alternately the gear motor can be
plugged into the vehicle and cycled
to the 2WD position with the rocker
switches.
Do not use 12V battery to operate the
gear motor.
3. Insert bolts (5) into the gear motor
(6) and use the as a guide to set the
motor on the differential gear
assembly (7) so that the sliding
gear does not move.
4. Remove the temporary bolts and
install the gear motor bolts.
 Chassis

Installing the Front Bridge

1. Install the right and left transmission

shafts into the front bridge
differential.

2. Fill with 0.32L 80w90 gear lube and

tighten the filler bolt.

23 Nm (2.3m · kg,17 ft · lbs)

3. Install the front bridge differential

onto the frame

 2 Bolts 10mm X110mm

 2 Nuts10mm
 2 flat gaskets

Fastening Torque of the Bolt

40～45 Nm ,29～33 ft ·
lbs)

5‐41
 Chassis

Rear Bridge

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

1 Cir clip 2
2 Boot band 2
3 Boot band 2
4 Dust boot 2
5 Cir clip 1
6 Double off-set joint assembly 1
7 Cir clip 1
8 Cir clip 1
9 Double off-set joint assembly 1
10 Joint shaft 1
11 Half axle assembly 1

5‐42
 Chassis

Rear Bridge

50

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the rear bridge
1 Rear reducer assy 1
2 Rear reducer case. 1
3 Bearing 22×30×13 1
4 Bearing 55b M6720 55×67×20 1
5 Drive & driven gears 1
6 Bearing 25×62×17 1

7 Mount bracket, rear disk brake plate 1

8 Oil seal 61×35×9 1
9 Fuel drain O-ring seal 13×1.5 1
10 O-ring gasket 3×71 1

5‐43
 Chassis

Rear Bridge

50

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

11 Washer 12×30×4 1
12 Hexagon flange nut M12×1.25 1
13 Mount bracket, rear brake caliper 1
14 Rear adjustment gasket 1
15 Hexagon bolt with washer 4
16 Socket hexagon screw M8×25 1
17 Rear adjustment gasket Ⅱ 1
18 Speed sensor comp. 1
19 O-ring gasket, fuel injection 2.3×19.4 1
20 Vent pipe, rear reducer 1
21 Rear reducer case Ⅱ 1
22 Socket hexagon screw M8×45 1
23 Washer 8.2×1 4

5‐44
 Chassis

Rear Bridge

50

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

24 Hexagon flange nut M8 2
25 Oil seal 65×90×9 1
26 Bearing 16017C2 85×130×14 1
27 O-ring 3×150 2
28 Adjustment gasket Ⅲ 1
29 Oil Seal 65×90×9 1
30 Fuel drain screw plug 1
31 Hexagon flange nut M10×1.25×25 1
32 Hexagon flange bolt M8×12 4
33 Rear transmission shaft comp 1
34 Cir clip D0=19 1
35 Rear transmission shaft 1

5‐45
 Chassis

Rear Bridge

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

36 Cir clip D0=19 2
37 Joint sleeve, rear axle transmission shaft 1
38 Elasticity block ring D0=22 1
39 Hexagon flange nut M10×1.25 2
40 Cir clip 20×26×1 1
41 Rear dust cover 20.5×48×30, 1
42 Vent pipe, rear reducer 1
43 Steel Wire Clamp 8 1
44 Clip 11 1
45 Spring 25×2.3×28 1
46 Hexagon flange bolt M10×1.25×120 2
47 Impaction ring 1
48 Rubber washer of shaft 1
49 Front dustproof rubber cover 19×38×50, front transmission shaft 1
50 Clamp 20-32 1

For servicing refer to the front bridge

5‐46
 Chassis
Gear Shift Mechanism

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing mechanism
1 Gear Shifter Assembly 1
2 Gearshift cable assy 1
3 Hexagon flange bolt M6×30 2
4 Gearshift arm 1
5 Reverse cable 1
6 Hexagon Flange Nut M8 2
7 Gearshift cable fix plate Ⅱ 1
8 Gearshift cable fix plate Ⅰ 1
9 Hexagon Flange Bolt M6×20 2
10 Hexagon Flange Locked Nut M6 6
11 Hexagon Flange BoltM8×45 2
12 Gear Shift Rod II 1
13 Washer 6 2

5‐47
 Chassis

Adjusting the gearshift mechanism  Adjust the shift rod length for
smooth and correct shifting.
Neutral (1)  Tighten the locknuts.
High (2) Locknut
Low (3) 15 Nm (1.5 m · kg, 11 ft · lb)
Reverse (4)
Parking (5)
Shift control cable (6)

Note:
Before shifting you must stop the
vehicle and take your foot off the
accelerator pedal. Otherwise the
transmission may be damaged.

1. Adjustment
 Select lever shift rod
 Make sure the shift lever is in
the neutral position
 Loosen the locknuts(1)

5‐48
 Chassis

Suspension

Front Suspension and A arm

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing front suspension and arm
1 B frame welding kit (front left) 1
2 B frame welding kit (front right) 1
3 Bolt hexagon flange head M10×1.25-78 8
4 tube 10.3×23×50 8
5 Bushing 23×28 16
6 Nut lock M10×1.25 16
7 Shield CV basic Ⅰ 2
8 Hexagon flange bolt M6×16 8
9 Bolt hexagon flange head M6×16 ４
10 Ball joint assembly ４
11 A frame kit (front left) assembly １
12 B frame kit (front right) assembly １
13 A frame kit (front right) assembly １

5‐49
 Chassis

Front Suspension and A arm

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

14 Pin cotter 2.5×30 ４
15 Stabilizer bar welding kit(front) １
16 Rod ball kit (right) １
17 Rod ball kit (left) １
18 Buffer stabilizer bar 20×45 2
19 Strap buffer plated 2
20 Washer spring lock 8 4
21 Bolt hexagon flange head M8×20 4
22 A frame welding kit (front left) 1
23 A frame welding kit (front right) 1
24 B frame kit(front left) assembly 1
25 Front shock absorber 2
26 Bolt hexagon flange head M10×1.25-55 4

5‐50
 Chassis

Front Suspension components Installing the front A arms and shock

absorbers
1. Inspect the front A arms.
1. Install both the upper arm (1) and
Look for bends or damage. the lower arm (2).

2. Inspect the middle bushing. Note:

Lubricate the bolts (3) with lithium
Look for wear or damage. grease, and position them with the bolt
heads facing outward. Temporarily
3. Inspect the upper ball joint install bolt (4) loose.

Look for pitting or damage.

Inspect for free play and
smoothness of operation.

Front Shock Absorbers

1. Inspect the shock absorber rod.

Look for bends, corrosion or

damage.

2. Inspect the shock absorber

body.

Look for oil leaks.

2. Install the front shock absorbers(5)
3. Inspect the spring.
Nut(6)
Look for fatigue. 60-72 Nm (44-53 ft · lbs)

3. Install the ball joints

Nut (7)
40-50 Nm (30-37 ft · lbs)

4. Install new cotter pins, and tighten

the nuts (4).

Nut (4)
60-72 Nm (44-53 ft · lbs)

5‐51
 Chassis

Rear Suspension and A arm

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the rear suspension
1 B frame welding kit (rear right) 1
2 B frame welding kit (rear left) 1
3 Bolt hexagon flange head M10×1.25-78 8
4 bushing 23×28 8
5 tube 10.3×23×50 8
6 Nut lock M10×1.25 12
7 Stabilizer bar welding kit(rear) 1
8 Buffer stabilizer bar 20×45 2
9 Strap buffer plate 2
10 Bolt hexagon flange head M8×20 4
11 Rod ball kit (rear) 2
12 Bolt hexagon flange head M10×1.25-45 2
13 B frame kit (rear left) assembly 1
14 Bolt hexagon flange head M10×1.25-40 2

5‐52
 Chassis

Rear Suspension and A arm

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

15 B frame kit(rear right) assembly 1
16 Rear shock absorber Q 2
17 Bolt hexagon flange head M6×16 4
18 Bolt hexagon flange head M10×1.25-65 2
19 Washer spring 8 4
20 Bolt hexagon flange head M10×1.25-60 2
21 Nut lock M12×1.25 4
22 A frame welding kit(rear right) 1
23 A frame welding kit(rear left) 1
24 Cap bushing Ⅰ 16
25 Cap bushing Ⅲ 1
26 Cap bushing Ⅱ 1
27 A frame kit(rear LEFT) assembly 1
28 A frame kit(rear right) assembly 1

5‐53
 Chassis

Checking the components of the rear
suspension
1. Inspect the stabilizer bar.
Look for bends, cracks or damage.
2. Install the rear shock absorber(5).
Nut (6)
90-100 Nm (66-74 ft · lbs)
3. Install the rear knuckle.

Nut (7)
90-100 Nm (66-74 ft · lbs)

4. Torque the nuts(4).

Nut (4)
60-72 Nm (44-53 ft · lbs)
2. Inspect the rear A arms (1).
Look for bends or damage.
Inspect the rear rocker bushings.
Look for wear or damage.

3. Inspect the rear shock absorbers.

• Inspect the rod.

Look for bends or damage.

• Inspect the shock absorber body.

Look for oil leaks.

• Inspect the spring.

Look for cracks or fatigue.

Installing the Rear A arms and Shock

Absorbers

1. Install the rear upper arm (1) and

rear lower arm (2) temporarily with
bolt (3) hand tight. Lubricate the
bolts with lithium grease. Be sure to
position the bolt heads toward the
outside of the UTV.

5‐54
 Chassis

Cooling System

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the radiator 1
1 Water tank 1
2 Radiator cover 1
3 Oil cooler 1
4 Radiator assy 1
5 Radiator fan assy 1
6 M-shaped fixed pipe clamps 3
7 H-shaped rubber washer 6
8 Hexagon flange bolt M6×20 2
9 Hexagon flange nut M6 2
10 Secondary water tank 1
11 Secondary water tank cover 1
12 Collar bushing 6×9×22×6.5 2
13 Hexagon flange bolt M6×16 2
14 Clip 9 3
15 Rubber tube 5×9×550
16 Rubber pipe 7×11×750 1
17 Water inlet assy 1

5‐55
 Chassis

Cooling System

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

18 Hexagon flange bolt M6×16 2
19 Water pipe 1
30 Pressure-proof rubber oil pipe 10×17×300 2
31 Metal oil pipe 1
32 Metal oil pipe 1
33 Screw hoop 12-20 6
34 Hexagon flange bolt M6×12 3

5‐56
 Chassis
Checking the Radiator
1. Inspect the radiator fins.
Look for obstruction or leaks.
2. Inspect all Radiator hoses.
Look for cracks, bulges or damage.
3. Inspect the Hose clamps.
Look for tightness.
4. Inspect the radiator fan.
Look at operation, wire connections
or damage.
5. Measure the Radiator cap opening
pressure.
Install the pressure tester (1) and
adapter (2) onto the radiator cap
(3). Pump it up to the specified
pressure for ten seconds and make
sure that there is no drop in
pressure.
Replacing the coolant
1. Remove the hose at the water
pump and the reservoir and allow
the system to completely drain.
2. Remove the radiator cap.
3. Replace the hoses at the reservoir
and water pump.
5‐57
4. Loosen the radiator and thermostat bleed
bolts.
5. Pour in new antifreeze mixture
until the coolant flows out
each bleed opening.
6. Replace the bleed bolts.
7. Add New coolant to the reservoir to
be above the minimum level mark.
8. Follow the bleeding
procedure on page 3-13
Caution:
Do not attempt to open a hot radiator
cap, as the fluid is under pressure and
extremely hot. Severe burns or injury is
possible. Wait for unit to completely
cool before any attempted service or
repairs to the cooling system.
Recommended antifreeze:
High quality ethylene glycol antifreeze
containing corrosion inhibitors for
aluminum engines.
Antifreeze and water mixing ratio: 1:1
Total amount: 1.8L
(1.58 imperial qt, 1.90 US qt)
Coolant reservoir capacity
(Up to the maximum level
mark): 0.3L (0.26lmp qt,0.32 US
qt)
9. When completed inspect the cooling
system for leaks.
Oil Cooler
1. Inspect for leaks or distortion. Look
at metal oil lines, rubber hoses and
fittings for leaks or damage.
 Chassis

Water Pump

No. Part Name Qty

1 Water Pump assembly 1
2 Bolt 6mm X45mm 1
3 Bolt 6mm X65mm 1
4 Bolt 6mm X10mm 1
5 Water pipe 2 1
6 O-ring 20.7 X2.6 1
7 Water pipe 3 1
8 Hose clamp 2
9 Cylinder inlet water joint 1
10 Bolt 6mm X20mm 2
11 O-ring 33.4 X2.4 1
12 Water pipe 1 1
13 Clamp 2
14 Pipe clamp 2 1
15 Thermostat 1
16 Thermostat cover 1
17 Bolt 6mm X20mm 2

5‐58
 Chassis

Water Pump

No. Part Name Qty

18 Water pump housing cover 1
19 Gasket 1
20 Cir clip 1
21 Impeller assembly 1
22 Water pump seal 1
23 Oil seal 1
24 Bearing 1
25 Water pump housing 1
26 O-ring 1

5‐59
 Chassis
Disassembling the Water Pump
1. Remove the rubber damper holder
(1) And the rubber damper (2).
Be careful not to scratch the
impeller shaft.
2. Remove the water pump seal (1)
from the water pump housing (2) by
tapping it out from the inside of the
water pump housing.
3. Remove the bearing (1) and the oil
seal (2) from the water pump
housing (3) by tapping them out
from the outside of the water pump
housing.
5‐60
Inspecting the Water pump
1. Inspect the water pump housing
cover (1), the water pump housing
(2), the impeller (3), the rubber
damper (4), the rubber damper
holder (5), and the O-ring (6).
Look for cracks, damage or wear.
2. Inspect the water pump seal (1), the
oil seal (2), and the water pump
hoses (3) for cracks, damage or
wear.
3. Measure the impeller shaft fitment
using a straight edge measure for
tilt.
Max. Impeller shaft tilt
0.15 mm (0.006 in)
 Chassis

Assembling the Water pump

1. Install the oil seal (1) using a socket

of the correct size (3) into the water
pump housing (2). Use coolant as a
lubricant for installation.

2. Install the water pump seal (1) into

the housing (2) using a mechanical
seal installer (3) and water pump
seal installer (4). Do not lubricate
this seal with oil or grease. Use
the special tool.

3. Install the rubber damper (1) and

rubber damper holder (2) into the
impeller using Tap water or coolant
as a lubricant. Make sure the rubber
damper and holder are flush with
the impeller.

5‐61
 Chassis

SEAT

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the seat
1 Bench seat 1
2 Hexagon flange nut M10×1.25 2
3 Backrest assy 1
4 Baffle plate 1
5 Safety belt assy 2
6 Hexagon socket head bolt M6×20 2
7 Hexagon flange step bolt M10×1.25×20-Φ14×5 4
8 Hexagon flange bolt M10×1.25×20 2
9 Hexagon flange nut M10×1.25 4
10 Cross large plate head screw M6×16 3
11 Head rest 2
12 Safety belt buckle 2
13 Hexagon flange bolt M10×1.25×20 2
14 Rubber insulation (L） 1
15 Rubber insulation (R） 1

5‐62
 Chassis

FUEL TANK

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the fuel tank
1 Fuel tank assembly 1
2 Fuel tank 1
3 Cap gas tank 1
4 Cap fuel pump 1
5 Gasket pump 1
6 Fuel pump 1
7 Connector outlet fuel 1
8 Connector inlet fuel 1
9 Climp A 8
10 Line fuel(0.05MPa)Ⅰ 3
11 Hose heat insulation 3

5‐63
 Chassis

FUEL TANK

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

12 Hose tee coupling 1
13 Line fuel(0.05MPa) 1
14 Hose heat insulation 1
15 Clip line brake Ⅰ 1
16 Bolt hexagon flange head M6×16 1
17 Fuel cleaner 1
18 Clamp tank 2
19 Bolt hexagon flange head M8×30 2
20 Line fuel(EPA)φ7×φ11×700 1
21 Clamp D 1
22 Foam tank 2

5‐64
 Chassis

Checking the fuel pump operation

1. Remove the seat bottom and

cover

2. Disconnect the pressure

feed fuel hose.

3. Connect a fuel pressure

gauge.

4. Turn the ignition switch to the run

position. Do not start the engine.

5. Fuel Pressure should read 42-

45 PSI

6. Turn the key to the off position.

7. Attach the fuel line back to its

original position.

8. Install the cover and seat bottom.

5‐65
 Electrical
Electrical Components

1. Thermo switch 2
2. Radiator fan
3.Gear motor
4. Winch
5.Parking brake switch
6.Pickup coil/stator assembly
7.Speed sensor
8. Diode 1
9. Circuit breaker(radiator fan motor)
10.Thermo switch 1
11. Ignition coil
12. Gear position switch
13.Reverse switch
14.ECU unit

6‐1
 Electrical
Electrical Components

1. Fuse/Relay Box
2. Starter relay
3. Battery
4. Rectifier/regulator
5. Speedometer
6. On-Command four-wheel drive switch and differential gear lock switch
7. Ignition switch components

6‐2
 Electrical

Whenever performing any type of electrical test it is very important to start off
with a known good Battery! Check the charge State of the Battery. It needs to be
fully charged.

There are 2 types of Batteries commonly used on UTV’s.

• Lead Acid Battery

• Maintenance Free Battery

Lead Acid Battery

The lead acid battery is the most common in the industry. There are a couple of things
that affect the lifespan of the battery. Heat and state of charge are the two biggest
factors in how long a battery survives. The typical lifespan of a lead acid battery is 1 to 2
years but if maintained with a battery tender they can survive longer.

Maintenance Free Battery

The maintenance free battery is a sealed battery and is usually a Gel type or a Glass
Mat battery. The term maintenance free means that nothing should be added to the
battery. These Batteries still need to be kept at their fullest state of charge in order to
get the most life out of them. The typical Lifespan for a maintenance free battery is 3 to
4 years again depending on if it has been kept at its fullest state of charge.

Each type of Battery requires its own method of charging.

Note: Improper charging will adversely affect the lifespan of the Battery.

6‐3
 Electrical

Warnings:

Batteries generate explosive gas and contain electrolyte, which is made of

sulfuric acid, a highly poisonous and caustic chemical. Whenever working with
batteries always follow these preventative measures:

• Wear eye protection, Eye shield or safety glasses with side shields.
• Charge batteries in a well-ventilated area.
• Keep batteries away from sparks or fire, open flames. (Welding
equipment, grinding equipment, Cigarette smoking etc.)
• Do Not Smoke when charging or handling a battery.
• Keep batteries and electrolyte out of the reach of children.
• Avoid body contact with electrolyte as it can cause severe burns and or
permanent eye damage.

First Aid in case of Bodily Contact:

• Skin: Wash thoroughly with water

• Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and seek immediate medical
attention.

Installing a battery into the UTV, always connect the Positive terminal first then
the negative terminal. This is to help prevent any type of spark. Reverse this for
removal from the UTV.

Charging a Lead Acid Battery

Always use a charger that will charge at a rate 1/10 the amp hour rating of the battery. It
is also a good idea to use a charger that will not overcharge, or shuts off when it
reaches a full charge.

Higher rates of charge have a chance of warping the plates inside the battery and
diminishing its lifespan. In other words a quick charge is not good for the battery.

Always remove the battery From the UTV prior to charging.

6‐4
 Electrical

Using a Constant Voltage Charger (Lead Acid Battery)

Measure the open circuit voltage

prior to charging.

Connect the charger and ammeter to the battery and start charging.
Make sure the setting is at 1/10 the amp hour rating of the battery.
This is typically 2 amp 12 Volts.

Is the amperage higher than the

Standard charging amperage written
Yes No
on the battery?

Charge the battery until the charging

amperage drops all the way down,
usually 1 amp.
This type of battery charger cannot
Set Charge time to a maximum of charge a Maintenance Free Battery. A
Variable Rate charger is needed.
20 hours

Leave battery for 30 minutes to settle

before measuring the open circuit
voltage.

12.8 V Fully Charged

12.0‐12.7 V Not Fully Charged

Under 12.0 V Replace the Battery

6‐5
 Electrical

Charging a Maintenance Free Battery

Using a Variable Rate Charger (Maintenance Free Batteries)

Measure the open circuit voltage. Set the charging voltage to 16-17 V.

Connect a charger and ammeter to

the battery and start charging.

Is the amperage higher than the No

standard charging amperage written
on the battery?
Yes
Adjust the voltage to obtain the
standard charging amperage.
Adjust the charging voltage to 20‐25 V.
Monitor the amperage for 3‐5
minutes. Is the standard charging
amperage exceeded?

Set the timer to the charging time If the amperage does not exceed the
determined by the open circuit standard charging amperage after 5
voltage. minutes, replace the battery.

If the required charging time exceeds

5 hours, recheck the charging
amperage and adjust the voltage to
obtain the standard charging
amperage.

Let the battery sit for 30 minutes,

then measure the open circuit
voltage.

12.8 V or more Charging is complete

12.0‐12.7V Recharging is required.

6‐6
 Electrical

Checking the Fuses

Note:
Always turn the main switch off when
checking or replacing a fuse.
After testing and replacement of the fuse, turn on the
Main switch to energize and check the circuit that
was affected.
If the fuse blows immediately check the rest of the
circuit for a short.

Set tester to Ohms X 1 position. WARNING:

If the tester indicates ∞ or OL replace the
fuse.
Never use a fuse with a rating other
than that specified. Never use materials
Fuses will be found in a distribution
in place of a fuse. An improper fuse can
panel located under the hood cover
cause extensive damage to the
on the right side of the vehicle.
electrical system up to and including a
fire.

6‐7
 Electrical

Checking the switch

Use a pocket tester to check the terminals

for continuity. If the continuity is faulty at
any point, replace the switch.

Note:
• Set the pocket tester to “0” before
starting the test.
• The pocket tester should be set to the
“Ω × 1” range when testing the switch
for continuity.
• Turn the switch on and off a few times
when checking it.

The terminal connections for switches

(main switch, light switch, etc.) are shown
in a chart similar to the one on the left.
This chart shows the switch positions in
the column and the switch lead colors in
the top row.
For each switch position, “ ” indicates the
terminals with continuity.
The example chart shows that:
①There is continuity between the
“Brown/Blue and Red” leads when the
switch is set to “ON”.

6‐8
 Electrical

Checking the switch continuity

Refer to “CHECKING THE SWITCH” and check for continuity between lead terminals.
Poor connection, no continuity Correct or replace.

* The coupler locations are circled.

1. Fuse
2. Brake light switch
3. On-Command four-wheel drive switch and differential gear lock switch
4. Main switch
5. Light switch
6. Parking brake switch
7. Reverse switch
8. Four-wheel drive switch

6‐9
 Electrical

Checking the Bulbs and Bulb Sockets

Check each bulb and bulb socket for

damage or wear, proper connections,
and also for continuity between the
terminals.

Caution;
Avoid touching the glass part of the
bulb as the oils in your skin transfer to
the bulb. This causes the brightness
to be diminished and lifespan of the
bulb to be shortened.

6‐10
 Electrical

Ignition System
Circuit Diagram

1. High tension Coil

2. C.D.I
3. Magneto

6‐11
 Electrical

Troubleshooting
No spark or intermittent spark (Ignition circuit)

Procedure:

Check:

1) Fuses (Main, Ignition)

2) Battery
3) Sparkplug
4) Ignition spark cap
5) Spark plug cap resistance
6) Ignition coil resistance
7) Main switch
8) Pickup coil resistance
9) Rotor pickup coil resistance
10) Wiring connections (The entire Ignition circuit).

No Continuity
Fuses (Main, Ignition) Replace with a new

Continuity

Check the Charged condition of the Battery. Incorrect Clean the Battery terminals and recheck
Open Circuit voltage open circuit voltage.
12.8 V or more Charge or replace the Battery.
Correct
Check the condition of the spark plug. Incorrect Repair or replace the Spark Plug
Is it the proper plug and is the gap
correct.
Disconnect the spark plug cap.
Attach the ignition spark tester.
Turn the main switch on.
Crank the engine while looking at the
tester.
Minimum spark gap
6.0mm (0.24 in)

Meets Specification The ignition system is not faulty.

Out of specification
or No spark

6‐12
 Electrical

Check the Spark Plug Cap resistance.

10K ohms

Check the Ignition coil resistance.

Replace the Spark Plug Cap
Connect multimeter as shown.
Positive lead to Orange lead terminal.
Negative lead to Ignition coil base.
Primary coil resistance
0.18 – 0.28 Ohms

Test Secondary coil resistance.

Connect multi meter as shown.
Positive lead to Orange lead terminal.
Negative lead to Spark Plug Lead.
Secondary coil resistance
6.32 – 9.48 K Ohms

Out of Specification

Both Tests meet specification

Test the Main switch for continuity.
Replace the ignition coil
Correct Incorrect

Test the A.C Magneto coupling resistance. Replace the Main switch
Connect multi meter as shown.
Positive lead to White/Red terminal (1)
Negative lead to White/Green terminal (2)
Pickup coil resistance
220-280 Ohms

Test the A.C Magneto coupling resistance.

Connect multi meter as shown.
Positive lead to Red terminal (3)
Negative lead to White/Blue terminal (4)
Pickup coil resistance secondary
Replace the pickup
0.063 – 0.077 Ohms Incorrect
coil/stator assembly
Meets specification

6‐13
 Electrical

Check the wiring of the entire ignition Incorrect Repair wiring or replace connectors as
circuit. necessary.

Replace the C.D.I. unit

6‐14
 Electrical

Electric Starting System

6‐15
 Electrical

Troubleshooting a starter motor failure

Check:

1. Fuses (Main, Ignition, and Signaling) for continuity.

2. Battery for 12.8V or more
3. Starter motor
Connect a jumper of equal size from battery positive to the starter motor.
Warning: If the size of jumper wire is too small the jumper could burn and
or cause injury.

4. Starter relay
Connect Battery positive to Yellow/Blue terminal (1)
Connect Battery Negative to Blue/Black terminal (2)
Connect multi meter positive to Red terminal (3)
Connect multi meter negative to Black terminal (4).
Check for continuity.
5. Main Switch for continuity
6. Gear position switch for continuity
7. Brake light switch for continuity

8. Wiring connections

6‐16
 Electrical

Starter Motor

No. Part Name Qty Remarks

Removing the starter motor Remove the parts in the order
1 Starter motor lead 1 listed
2 Starter motor / O-ring 1/1

Disassembling the starter motor

1 Bracket 1 1
2 Washer kit 1
3 Bracket 2 1
4 Shims
5 Brush seat 1 / Brush seat 2 1/1
6 Armature coil 1 1
7 Yoke 1

6‐17
 Electrical

Charging System

6‐18
 Electrical

Troubleshooting the charging system

Condition: Battery is not charging.

Check connections and wires from the stator to the regulator to the battery.

Connect a multi meter to the leads coming from the stator. (3 White wires). Test for
an external short.

1st test in ohms # 1 white wire to ground

#2 white wire to ground

#3 white wire to ground

should see OL or the infinity sign.

Now test for an internal short.

2nd test in ohms #1 white wire to #2 white wire

#2 white wire to #3 white wire

#3 white wire to #1 white wire

We should have continuity, or small numbers. 0.32 – 0.43 ohms

now perform the 2nd test again with your meter set in A.C voltage.

Each pair should give a reading of 18 – 22 acv per 1000 rpm.

The next test is at the battery terminals with the unit running, set your meter in D.C
Voltage and measure charging current coming back to the battery.

This should measure between 13 and 15 D.C. volts.

1000, 2000 and 3000 rpm if there is any variation above 15 or below 12 the regulator is
in question.

6‐19
 Electrical
Lighting System

6‐20
 Electrical

Signaling System

6‐21
 Electrical

Cooling System

6‐22
 Electrical

2WD / 4WD Selecting System

6‐23
 Engine Management System

Introduction

EMS (Engine Management System)

EMS is a self-contained set of components including a custom built computer, sensors

and actuators which control the operation of an engine by monitoring the engine speed,
load and temperature, then providing the ignition spark at the right time for the
prevailing conditions and metering the fuel to the engine in the exact quantity required.

Typical Components of EMS

1. Electronic Control Unit

2. Multec 3.5 Injectors
3. Throttle Body Assembly (with stepper motor)
4. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
5. Intake Air Pressure and Temperature Sensor
6. Oxygen Sensor
7. Ignition Coil
8. Fuel Pump Module

7‐1
 Engine Management System
Layout of EMS Components

COMPONENTS OF EMS

1) Electronic Control Unit

• The ECU continuously monitors the operating conditions of the engine through
the system sensors. It also provides the necessary computation, adaptability, and
output control in order to minimize the tailpipe emissions and fuel consumption,
while optimizing vehicle drivability for all operating conditions. The ECU also
provides diagnosis when system malfunctions occur.

• Handling

• This is the electrical brain for the UV. Because of this it requires special
handling. Do not subject this unit to excessive heat, water, mud or debris.
Do not clean it with solvents or corrosive liquids. Improper care or handling can
cause ECU failure and or loss of performance.

• Maintenance, Service and Repairs

• The ECU is a non-serviceable part. Once there are problems, it’s important to
first determine if the problem is caused by software/calibration. If it is caused by
software/calibration, please refer to

7‐2
 Engine Management System

Software/calibration re-flashing procedure. In the event of ECU hardware failure or

malfunction (during warranty period only) the ECU should be sent back to the vehicle
manufacturer giving complete details of the ECU Part No, Serial number, Vehicle Model
& Make, manufacturing Date, Total kms run on the vehicle, Location of use, Vehicle No,
Date of return.

2) Multec 3.5 Fuel Injectors

• The Multec 3.5 Fuel Injector is an electromechanical device. A magnetic field is

generated as voltage is applied to the solenoid coil. The resulting magnetic force
lifts the core assembly, overcoming manifold vacuum, spring force, and fuel
pressure, allowing fuel to pass through the ball and seat interface to the director.
As the fuel passes through the director, an atomized spray is developed. The
injector closes when the voltage is removed, cutting off the fuel flow.

• This is a critical part to the fuel delivery on the UV, therefore there are things
you should not do when working with a fuel injector. Do not reuse injector seal
rings, dip injector tips into lubricants, cycle injectors repeatedly without fuel
pressure, pulse a high leak rate injector, allow water into the fuel system,
contact or apply load to the injector tip, use a dropped unit, pound on injectors
during assembly into the manifold, store injectors or assemblies in an
unprotected environment.

• Things to do when handling fuel injectors. Use the proper lubricant on the seal
ring when installing, pulse actuate a stuck closed injector (5 sec at 9 – 15V),
pulse activate prior to a dry fuel system leak test to seat the injectors, Return any
dropped or damaged injector with a tag describing the problem (warranty cases
only).

3) Installation guidelines

Follow these guidelines to prevent damage to the injector and its electrical
interface during the replacement or installation process.

• Lubrication: Apply a light coating of lubricant to the lower injector seal ring. ISO
10 light mineral oil or equivalent is recommended.

• The preferred technique is to apply the lubricant to the sockets, the injectors are
being installed into, rather than directly to the seal ring itself. This will help
minimize the possibility of injector contamination.

7‐3
 Engine Management System

• Avoid applying lubricant over the director plate holes – this may restrict injector
flow. Do not dip the injector tip in lubricant.
• Multec 3.5 injectors come from the factory with the seal rings attached. The re-
use of seal rings is not preferred when replacing an injector. If an injector is to be
re-used, and no new seal rings are available, take care to inspect each seal ring
for signs of damage. Even minor defects in the seal ring can lead to leakage.
Take extra care in installing seal ring over flange of injector inlet.
• Carefully installing the harness connector will prevent terminal damage. Listen for
a positive audible click from the connector retention device — this ensures that it
is fully engaged. Shut off ignition.
• Disconnect negative battery cable to avoid possible fuel discharge if an
accidental attempt is made to start the engine.
• Disconnect the electrical connector from the injector wiring harness.
• Relieve fuel pressure
• Remove the retaining clip from the fuel injector.
• Remove the fuel line connection from the injector
• Carefully clean debris from the interface surfaces. Do not damage seal mating
surfaces.
• Remove the injector from the manifold
• Apply a light coating of a lubricant to both the upper and lower injector seal ring
of the replacement injector.
• Install the new injector into the manifold. Check that the injector is installed in the
original orientation to maintain proper spray targeting, and that the retaining clip
is properly seated on the injector and the fuel line
• Install the retaining clip after connecting the fuel line
• Tighten the injector mounting to the desired torque as mentioned in
this manual
• Tighten the fuel line
• Re-install the injector electrical connector
• Check for fuel leaks with the key “on” and the engine “off”
• Start engine and verify proper operation.

7‐4
 Engine Management System

4) Replacement of the injector

Warning:
The injector and all associated hardware may be extremely hot.

• Shut off ignition.

• Disconnect negative battery cable to avoid possible fuel discharge if an
accidental attempt is made to start the engine.
• Disconnect the electrical connector from the injector wiring harness.
• Relieve fuel pressure
• Remove the retaining clip from the fuel injector.
• Remove the fuel line connection from the injector
• Carefully clean debris from the interface surfaces. Do not damage seal mating
surfaces.
• Remove the injector from the manifold
• Apply a light coating of a lubricant to both the upper and lower injector seal ring
of the replacement injector.
• Install the new injector into the manifold. Check that the injector is installed in the
original orientation to maintain proper spray targeting, and that the retaining clip
is properly seated on the injector and the fuel line
• Install the retaining clip after connecting the fuel line
• Tighten the injector mounting to the desired torque as mentioned in
this manual
• Tighten the fuel line
• Re-install the injector electrical connector
• Check for fuel leaks with the key “on” and the engine “off”
• Start engine and verify proper operation.

5) Plugging

Fuel deposits cause plugging resulting in flow shifts over the life of the injector. Fuel
varnish or gumming, a type of injector deposit, is created when certain types of fuel are
heated by high injector tip temperatures at soak (no fuel flow). Deposit build up in the
director holes cause the flow shifts.

• Plugging can cause flow restrictions, frictional changes and the collection of other
particles attracted by the tacky surface. The flow restrictions can degrade
emissions and drivability.
• Other fuel and environmental conditions may cause crystal or corrosion growth in
the injector and cause a flow shift.
• Oxidation stability of the gasoline affects the potential for deposit formation and
must be controlled by the fuel supplier.
• Increased levels of detergent additives reduce the rate of injector plugging.

7‐5
 Engine Management System

• In case of plugging of injector follow the injector cleaning procedure mentioned in

the next section.
6) Cleaning Procedure

• Electrically disable the fuel pump by removing the fuel pump connection.
• Relieve the fuel pressure in the system and disconnect the fuel connection at the
injector. Plug the fuel feed line.
• Injector cleaner with the specific ratio of the cleaner and gasoline to be mixed in
the Injector cleaning tank.
• Connect the injector-cleaning tank to injector in the vehicle.
• Pressurize the injector-cleaning tank to system pressure.
• Start and idle the engine for 15- 20minutes.
• Disconnect the injector-cleaning tank from the system and install the fuel pump
connections. Connect the fuel feed line to injector.
• Start and idle the vehicle for an additional 2 minutes to ensure the residual
injector cleaner is flushed from system.

Throttle Body Assembly (with stepper motor)

The Throttle Body Assembly is an interactive system comprised of the following

subsystems: the main casting body, bearing system, shaft and valve system, return
spring system, cable interface system, throttle position sensing system, and the bypass
air control system. The subsystems interact and support each other to provide all the
functional requirements, which are mentioned below -
• Control intake airflow
• Control idle airflow
• Sense throttle position - Provide position feedback to ECU
• Provide reactionary force to the throttle

Handling

Use care when handling or storing a throttle body assembly. Think about environment
and packaging when in storage. If the throttle body assembly is dropped or damaged
(under warranty circumstances) return the assembly with a tag that describes the
problem.

7‐6
 Engine Management System

Throttle Body Removal

• Disconnect negative terminal of the battery

• Disconnect electric lead wire of throttle position sensor coupler, stepper motor
coupler and MAP/MAT sensor coupler ( if this sensor is mounted on the throttle
body)
• Disconnect accelerator cable from throttle body
• Remove air cleaner outlet hose and throttle body outlet hose

Cleaning Procedure

If there is a cover on the bottom, it may be removed and cleaned using carburetor
cleaner (3M make recommended). Once the throttle body cover is removed, spray the
throttle-body cleaner inside the air passage, and use a brush to gently dislodge the dirt,
gum and varnish that may be present. Do not let the bye pass holes be blocked by dirt
or foreign particles.

Throttle Body Installation

Reverse the removal procedure for installation noting the following:

• Adjust accelerator cable play
• Check to ensure that all removed parts are back in place.

Precautions

• Do not submerge TPS in any cleaning fluid.

• Always open the throttle valve using the throttle cable or lever.
• Do not hold the valve at opening position by inserting tools or any sticks into the
bore. The valve may be warped and the bore may be scratched. This type of
damage may keep the throttle from opening easily or fully closing.

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

This sensor is used in water cooled engines. It provides a resistance that varies as a
function of temperature within prescribed tolerance limits. The sensor has a negative
temperature coefficient of resistance. This is a non-serviceable part.

Installation

The sensor needs to be installed by hand, and torque to desired specification.

Torque spec
20 – 25Nm or 15 – 18 ft lbs

7‐7
 Engine Management System

Oxygen Sensor

This sensor is a device for monitoring the residual oxygen in the exhaust of an internal
combustion engine. It consists of the wide range sensor and stoichiometric sensor. We
typically use a stoichiometric sensor on a small engine. It is the feedback element for
engine closed loop control.

Installation

Torque
40 – 60Nm or 30 – 44 ft lbs

Ignition Coil

The coil receives 12v battery power, and a signal from the pickup coil, it then transforms
12v and sends high voltage to the spark plug. This is a non-serviceable component.

Installation Requirements

• The vehicle frame provides the mounting surface and mounting holes.
• Mount the coil close to the spark plug and keep the plug wire short in length
(6 inches or less if possible)
• Mount the coil away from any pickup type devices, especially Crank/Cam sensor,
and route wiring away from these sensors as they can interfere with the signal.

Take care when working with ignition coils, improper handling can cause personal injury
or damage test equipment.

Fuel Pump Module

Fuel Pump module consists of Fuel Pump to generate the fuel flow and pressure
regulator to regulate the fuel pressure. This is all in one unit and is a non-serviceable
component.

Service Procedures

Precautions:

Before attempting any service on the fuel system, the following cautions should always
be followed for personal safety and to avoid system damages.

• Disconnect negative cable at battery.

• DO NOT smoke, and place ‘No SMOKING” sign near work area
• Make sure to have fire extinguisher handy.

7‐8
 Engine Management System

• Make sure to perform work in well-ventilated area and away from any
open fire/flames.
• Wear Safety glasses
• To relieve fuel vapor pressure in fuel tank, remove fuel filler cap and then
reinstall it.
• To relieve pressure in the fuel lines, disconnect the power to the pump, pull the
spark plug boot off the plug and place it away from the plug. Crank the engine to
release the pressure in the lines.
• After servicing, make sure that the fuel hoses and clamps are connected
according to the hose fitment instructions given in vehicle instruction manual.
• Check for any fuel leakage.
• Fill the fuel tank with at least 3 liters of fuel, then turn on the ignition switch to
cycle the pump and prime the system.

Fuel Module Diagnosis

Step Action Yes No

Switch on Ignition key. Fuel Pump Do you hear the
primes for 3 seconds when the pump running?
1 ignition key is ON.
Check for fuel pump running noise
for 3 seconds after ignition key is Go to step 4 Go to step 2
ON.
Disconnect fuel module coupler. Check the electrical
Check voltage at harness coupler. circuit from ignition
2 Is the voltage within 10-14V? Go to step 3 to fuel module

Connect 12V DC power supply Check electrical Check Fuel Pump

(battery) to fuel module. circuit from fuel Harness integrity
3 Make sure that enough fuel is module to ECU
available in the fuel tank to avoid Check Fuel Pump
the fuel pump running dry. Is the Check ECU
fuel pump running?

Check fuel pressure pattern at

injector.
4
Pull Injector off the manifold and Fuel Module Check for blockage
place it into a suitable catch can operation is normal or a clogged tip of
for Gasoline. Crank the engine the injector.
over and watch the spray pattern.

7‐9
 Engine Management System

Fuel Module Removal

• Relieve fuel pressure by disconnecting the power to the pump, pull the spark
plug boot off the plug and place it away from the plug. Crank the engine to
release the pressure in the lines.

• Disconnect Battery negative cable.

• Disconnect fuel module wire coupler.
• Disconnect the fuel hoses from fuel module by using standard tools
• Twist off screw ring and remove the fuel module from the fuel cell.
• This is non-serviceable and needs to be replaced as a unit.

Installation

• Reverse the removal process

• Fill with at least 3 liters of fuel.
• Install fuel filler cap
• Turn on the ignition key to prime the pump and fuel lines.

Fuel Leakage check procedure

After performing any service on fuel system, check to make sure that there are no fuel
leaks.

• Fill about 3 ~ 5 liters of fuel in tank.

• Turn Ignition key to ON position for 3 seconds (to operate fuel pump) and then
turn to OFF position. Repeat this for 3 ~ 4 times to apply fuel pressure in fuel
lines.
• In this state, check to see that there are no fuel leaks from any part of the fuel
system (Fuel Tank, Hoses, Hose Joints, etc.)

Use care when handling the Fuel module, it has electrical components and improper
care could cause a malfunction of the unit.

7‐10
 Engine Management System

Ems Fault Codes

When a fault occurrence happens, the odometer's clock will turn into a number, which
is a fault code, find out the cause with this number, press the clock button, then it will
turn back to clock mode, and five second later, the fault code will show again.

Fault Code List

System or DTC DTC Description Related Condition
Component Number
Manifold Absolute
Pressure Sensor 0107 MAP Circuit Low Voltage or Map Short Low
(MAP) Open
Manifold Absolute
Pressure Sensor 0108 Map Circuit High Voltage Map Short High
(MAP)
Intake Air
Temperature 0112 IAT Circuit Low voltage IAT Short Low
Sensor (IAT)
Intake Air
Temperature 0113 IAT Circuit High Voltage IAT Short High
Sensor (IAT)
Coolant
Temperature 0117 Coolant Temp Sensor circuit Coolant Short Low
Sensor Low voltage
Coolant
Temperature 0118 Coolant Temp Sensor circuit Coolant Short High
Sensor High voltage
Throttle Position
Sensor (TPS) 0122 TPS Circuit Low voltage or TPS Short Low
open
Throttle Position
Sensor (TPS) 0123 TPS Circuit High voltage TPS Short High
Oxygen Sensor 0131 O2 Sensor circuit Low Voltage O2 Short Low
Oxygen Sensor 0132 O2 Sensor circuit High Voltage O2 Short High
Fuel Injector 0201 Injector circuit malfunction
Fuel Pump Relay 0230 FPR circuit Low Voltage or FPR Short Low
(FPR) open
Fuel Pump Relay 0232 FPR circuit High Voltage FPR Short High
(FPR)
Idle Control System 0505 Idle Speed Control Error Idle Control
System Voltage 0562 System Voltage Low Low Voltage
System Voltage 0563 System Voltage High High Voltage

7‐11
 Troubleshooting

When Troubleshooting or diagnosing a problem on a UV, it is always good to use a

systematic approach to solving the issue. There are 3 main things to look for to have a
running motor.

• A Fuel air mixture being delivered to the cylinder.

• Compression inside the cylinder
• A timed spark to ignite the compressed fuel air mix.

Without any one of these the combustion process cannot take place.

Before any testing be sure you have a known good battery source.

Spark Test

Perform a spark test to determine if the ignition system is producing adequate spark.
This test should be performed with a spark tester. A spark tester looks like a spark plug
with an adjustable gap between the center electrode and grounded base. Because the
voltage required to jump the spark tester gap is sufficiently larger than that of a normally
gapped spark plug, the test results are more accurate than with a spark plug. Do not
assume that because a spark jumped across a spark plug gap, the ignition system is
working correctly. Perform this test on the engine when it is both cold and hot, if
possible. If the test results are positive for each test, the ignition system is working
correctly.

Caution:
After removing the direct ignition coil or spark plug cap and before removing the
spark plug in Step 1, clean the area around the spark plug with compressed air.
Dirt that falls into the cylinder causes rapid engine wear.

1. Disconnect the direct ignition coil or spark plug cap. Check for the presence of water.
2. Visually inspect the spark plug for damage.
3. Connect a spark tester to the direct ignition coil or spark plug cap. Ground the spark
tester base (or spark plug) to a good ground. Position the spark tester or spark plug
firing tip away from the open spark plug hole. Position the spark tester so the
electrode is visible.

Warning:
Mount the spark tester or spark plug away from the spark plug hole in the
cylinder. If the engine is flooded, do not perform this test. The spark tester
can ignite fuel ejected through the spark plug hole.

4. Shift the transmission into neutral.

Warning:
Do not hold the spark tester, spark plug or connector while turning over the
motor or a serious shock may result.

8‐1
 Troubleshooting

5. Turn the engine over using the Key switch. A fat blue spark must be evident between
the spark tester or spark plug terminals.
6. If there is a strong, blue spark, the ignition system is functioning properly, Check for
one or more of the following possible malfunctions:
• Faulty fuel system component.
• Flooded engine.
• Engine damage (low compression).
7. If the spark was weak (white or yellow) or if there was no spark, perform the peak
voltage checks described under Ignition System Testing.

Fuel System

The following section isolates common fuel system problems. If there is a good spark,
poor fuel flow may be preventing the correct amount of fuel from being supplied to the
cylinder. Troubleshoot the fuel system as follows:

1. Check that there is a sufficient amount of fuel in the tank.

2. Turn the ignition Key to the run position and listen for the fuel pump motor to
come on.
3. If nothing is heard check all wire connections going to the fuel tank. 2 wires go
to the back of the unit and 2 wires go to the front of the unit. Find the white 2
pin connector that goes toward the throttle body and connect 12v. Do you hear
the pump motor come on? If yes, then the pump motor is good. If no, we are
not getting the voltage from the centralized relay box.
4. Remove the spark plug and inspect for excessive fuel. If there is fuel present on
the plug tip. And the engine has spark. Check for an excessive intake air leak
or the possibility of contaminated or stale fuel.

Note:
If the UV was not used for some time, and was not properly stored, the fuel may
have gone stale. Depending on the condition of the fuel, a no-start condition can
result.

Compression test

Problems with the engine top end will affect engine performance. When the engine is
suspect, perform the leak down and a compression test. Interpret the results as
described in each procedure to troubleshoot the suspect area. An engine can lose
compression through the following areas:

1. Valves:
• Incorrect valve adjustment.
• Incorrect valve timing.
• Worn or damaged valve seat surfaces.
• Bent valves.
• Weak or broken valve springs.

8‐2
 Troubleshooting

2. Cylinder head:
• Loose spark plug or damaged spark plughole.
• Damaged cylinder head gasket.
• Warped or cracked cylinder head.
• Damaged decompression assembly.

See Maintenance and Adjustment section for procedure.

Standard 135.14 Psi

Minimum 128.02 Psi
Maximum 142.25 Psi

Upon completion of these 3 tests you should know which system is in question and the
direction of further testing or repair.

Engine Overheating
(Cooling System)

Warning:
Do not remove the radiator cap, coolant drain plug or disconnect any coolant
hose immediately after or during engine operation. Scalding fluid and steam may
be blown out under pressure and cause serious injury. When the engine has been
operated, the coolant is very hot and under pressure. Attempting to remove these
items when the engine is hot can cause the coolant to spray violently from the
radiator, water pump or hose, causing severe burns and injury.

Check the following:

• Low coolant level.
• Air in cooling system.
• Clogged radiator, hose or engine coolant passages.
• Worn or damaged radiator cap.
• Damaged water pump.

(Engine)
• Improper spark plug heat range.
• Low oil level.
• Oil not circulating properly.
• Valves leaking.
• Heavy carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.
• Dragging brake(s).
• Slipping clutch.

8‐3
 Troubleshooting

Pre-ignition

Pre-ignition is the premature burning of fuel and is caused by hot spots in the
combustion chamber. Glowing deposits in the combustion chamber, inadequate Cooling
or an overheated spark plug can all cause pre-ignition. This is first noticed as a power
loss but eventually causes damage to the internal parts of the engine because of the
high combustion chamber temperature.

Detonation

Detonation is the violent explosion of fuel in the combustion chamber before the proper
time of ignition. Using low octane gasoline is a common cause of detonation.
Even when using a high octane gasoline, detonation can still occur. Other causes are
over-advanced ignition timing, lean air/fuel mixture at or near full throttle, inadequate
engine cooling, or the excessive accumulation of carbon deposits in the combustion
chamber. Continued detonation can result in engine damage.

Engine Noises

Unusual noises are often the first indication of a developing problem. Investigate any
new noises as soon as possible. Something that may be a minor problem, if corrected,
could prevent the possibility of more extensive damage.
Use a mechanic’s stethoscope to isolate the location. Determining the exact cause of a
noise can be difficult. If this is the case, consult with a professional mechanic to
determine the cause. Do not disassemble major components until all other possibilities
have been eliminated.
Consider the following when troubleshooting engine noises:
• Knocking or pinging during acceleration can be caused by using a lower octane
fuel than recommended. This may also be caused by poor fuel. Pinging can also
be caused by an incorrect spark plug heat range or carbon buildup in the
combustion chamber.
• Slapping or rattling noises at low speed or during acceleration—May be caused
by excessive piston-to-cylinder wall clearance (piston slap).

Note:
Piston slap is easier to detect when the engine is cold and before the piston has
expanded. Once the engine has warmed up, piston expansion reduces piston-to-
cylinder clearance.

• Knocking or rapping while decelerating - usually caused by excessive

rod bearing clearance.
• Persistent knocking and vibration occurring every crankshaft rotation—usually
caused by worn rod or main bearing(s). This can also be caused by broken
piston rings or a damaged piston pin.
• Rapid on-off squeal—Compression leak around cylinder head gasket or spark
plug(s).

8‐4
 Troubleshooting

• Valve train noise—Check for the following:

1) Excessive valve clearance.

2) Worn or damaged camshaft.
3) Damaged camshaft.
4) Worn or damaged valve train components.
5) Damaged valve lifter bore(s).
6) Valve sticking in guide.
7) Broken valve spring.
8) Low oil pressure.
9) Clogged cylinder oil hole or oil passage.

CYLINDER LEAK DOWN TEST

A cylinder leak down test can accurately pinpoint engine leakage problems from the
head gasket, water jackets in the cylinder head and cylinder, valves and valve seats,
and piston rings. This test is performed by applying compressed air to the cylinder
through a special tester and then measuring the percent of leakage. A cylinder leak
down tester and an air compressor are needed to perform this test.
When performing a leak down test, the engine is first set at TDC on its compression
stroke so that all the valves are closed. When the combustion chamber is pressurized,
very little air should escape. However, the difficulty in performing a leak down test on a
single cylinder engine (especially on the engines described in this manual with low static
engine compression) is in preventing the piston from moving as the combustion
chamber starts to pressurize. Any piston movement will force the crankshaft to turn
away from TDC and allow air to escape past an open valve seat. In this procedure it will
be necessary to lock the engine at TDC on its compression stroke and then perform the
leak down test. Follow the manufacturer’s directions along with the following information
when performing a cylinder leak down test.

• Support the UV on a work stand with the rear wheels off the ground.
• Remove the air filter assembly Open and secure the throttle so it is at its wide-
open position.
• Remove the sparkplug.
• Install the threaded hose adapter from the leak down kit. Then install the leak
down gauge onto the hose.
• Remove the ignition timing hole cap from the left crankcase cover.
• Remove the crankshaft hole cap from the right crankcase cover.
• Remove the fan housing and fan from the right side of the engine.

Note:
Because the following test is performed with the cylinder head cover installed on
the engine, the camshaft lobes cannot be viewed to ensure that the engine is
positioned at TDC on its compression stroke. To determine when the engine is
approaching TDC on its compression stroke, or whether it is 360°off. Observe the
following two indicators to predict engine position. First, when aligning the index

8‐5
 Troubleshooting

marks in Step7, listen for pressure building inside the combustion chamber,
indicating that the piston is moving to TDC on its compression stroke. Second,
view the gauge on the leak down tester when turning the engine. As the piston
moves toward TDC on its compression stroke, compression building inside the
combustion chamber may cause the gauge needle to move slightly. If the
crankshaft is 360°off, these indicators will not be present.

Note:
The decompression mechanism will click loudly once during each
crankshaft revolution. This is normal.

• Use hex socket on the fan hub mounting bolt and turn the crankshaft clockwise
and align the TDC mark on the flywheel with the index mark on the left
crankcase cover
• Remove the hex socket from the primary drive gear.
• Perform the following to lock the transmission so the engine remains at TDC on
its compression stroke when performing the leak down test:

Warning:
Do not attempt to lock the engine by trying to use a tool to hold the Allen bolt on
the end of the crankshaft. Once the combustion chamber becomes pressurized,
any crankshaft movement can throw the tool away from the engine under
considerable force, attempting to hold the tool can cause serious injury. Engine
damage may also occur to the crankshaft or right crankcase cover. Lock the
engine as described in this procedure.

• Turn the drive sprocket by hand and shift the transmission into top gear with the
shift lever.
• Mount a holding tool or equivalent onto the fan hub. Use a wooden block and
clamp to hold the holding tool so it cannot move when the combustion
chamber becomes pressurized. Using a long breaker bar and securing it
against the engine frame is an example.
• Check that the TDC marks are still aligned as described in Step7, if not, turn the
crankshaft as required, then relock the holding tool in position.
• Remove the radiator cap and the oil filler cap.
• Perform a cylinder leak down test by applying air pressure to the combustion
chamber.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions while reading the percent of leakage on the
gauge. Listen for air leaking while noting the following:

Note:
Because of play in the transmission gears, it is unlikely the engine will stay at
TDC on the first try. If the crankshaft turns, reposition the countershaft slightly
and then relock it in position with the holding tool. After several attempts, you
will get a feel of the transmission play and know what direction the countershaft
should be turned and locked.

8‐6
 Troubleshooting

Note:
If a large amount of air escapes from the exhaust pipe or through the throttle
body, the air is leaking through on open valve, Check the index mark to make
sure the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke, If the engine is remaining at
TDC but there is still a large amount of air escaping from the engine, the
crankshaft is off one revolution. Turn the engine 360°and realign the TDC mark as
described in Step 7, then relock it as described in Step8.

• Air leaking through the exhaust pipe indicates a leaking exhaust valve.
• Air leaking through the intake tract indicates a leaking intake valve.
• Air leaking through both the intake and exhaust valves indicates the engine is
not set at TDC on its compression stroke.
• Air leaking through the coolant filler neck indicates a leaking cylinder head
gasket or a cracked cylinder head or cylinder liner.
• Air leaking through the oil filler hole indicates the rings are not sealing properly in
the bore.
• If the cylinder leak down is 10 percent or higher, further service is required.
• Disconnect the test equipment and install all the parts previously removed.

Electrical Testing

Preliminary Checks and Precautions

Refer to the color wiring diagrams at the end of the manual for component and
connector identification; Use the wiring diagrams to determine how the circuit should
work by tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components
to ground. Also, check any circuits that share the same fuse (if used), ground or switch.
If the other circuits work properly and the shared wiring is good, the cause must be in
the wiring used only by the suspect circuit. If all related circuits are faulty at the same
time, the probable cause is a poor ground connection or a blown fuse (if used).
As with all troubleshooting procedures, analyze typical symptoms in a systematic
manner. Never assume anything and do not overlook the obvious like a blown fuse or
an electrical connector that has separated. Test the simplest and most obvious items
first and try to make tests at easily accessible points on the UTV.
Before starting any electrical troubleshooting, perform the following:

• Check the fuse if the fuse is blown, replace it.

• Inspect the battery. Make sure it is fully charged, and the battery leads are clean
and securely attached to the battery terminals.
• Disconnect each electrical connector in the suspect circuit and make sure there
are no bent terminals in the electrical connector.
• Make sure the terminals on the end of each wire are pushed all the way into the
connector. If not. Carefully push them in with a narrow blade screwdriver.
• Check the wires where they connect to the terminals for damage.

8‐7
 Troubleshooting

• Make sure all terminals within the connector are clean and free of corrosion.
Clean them. If necessary. And pack the connectors with dielectric grease
• Push the connectors with dielectric grease together so that they are fully
engaged and locked together. Too much dielectric grease can create a
hydro-lock and make it difficult to assemble the connectors.
• Never pull the electrical wires when disconnecting an electrical connector-pull
only on the connector.

Intermittent Problems

Intermittent problems are problems that do not occur all the time and can be difficult to
locate. For example. When a problem only occurs when the UV is ridden over rough
roads (vibration) or in wet conditions (water penetration), it is intermittent. To locate and
repair intermittent problems, simulate the condition when testing the components. Note
the following:

• Vibration---This is a common problem with loose or damaged electrical

connectors.
1) Perform a continuity test as described in the appropriate service
procedure.
2) Perform a wiggle test on the connectors while repeating the test. Do the
same when checking the wiring harness and individual components.
especially where the wires enter a housing or connector
3) A change in meter readings indicates a poor connection. Find and repair
the problem or replace the part. Check for wires with cracked or broken
insulation.
• Heat--- This is another common problem with connectors or plugs that have
loose or poor connections. As these connections heat up, the connection or joint
expands and separates, causing an open circuit. Other heat related problems
occur when a component creates its own heat as it starts to fail or go bad
1) Troubleshoot the problem to help isolate the problem or area.
2) To check a connector. Perform a continuity test as described in the
appropriate service procedure. Then repeat the test while heating the
connector with a heat gun or hair dryer. If the meter reading was normal
(continuity) when the connector was cold, then fluctuated or read infinity
when heat was applied, the connection is bad.
3) To check a component, wait until the engine is cold, then start and run the
engine. Note operational differences when the engine is cold and hot.
4) If the engine does not start, isolate and remove the component. First test
it at room temperature, and then after heating it with a hair dryer. A
change in meter readings indicates a temperature problem.

Caution:
A heat gun or hair dryer will quickly raise the heat of the component being tested.
Do not apply heat directly to the ICM or use heat in excess of 60℃ (140℉) on any
electrical component. If available, monitor heat with an infrared thermometer.

8‐8
Electrical component replacement

Most UV dealerships and parts suppliers will not accept the return of any electrical part.
If you can’t determine the exact cause of any electrical system malfunction, then you
purchase a new electrical component(s), install it, and then find that the system still
does not work properly, you will probably be unable to return the unit for a refund.
Consider any test results carefully before replacing a component that tests only slightly
out of specification, especially resistance. A number of variables can affect test results
dramatically. These include: the testing meter’s internal circuitry, ambient temperature
and conditions under which the machine has been operated. All instructions and
specifications have been for accuracy: however. Successful test results depend to a
great degree upon individual accuracy.

ECU unit

This is the brain for the UV. The ECU controls all the electrical and motor systems on
the UV. It sends out voltage to the sensors which use the voltage to measure
something. In their processing of the measurement they use up some of the voltage
that was sent, the remainder of voltage is read by the ECU, this reading tells the ECU
exactly what measurement the sensor got and the ECU adjusts fuel delivery
accordingly. There are very few tests for the ECU. Test all the sensors and if everything
else tests properly, re flash the ECU. If this does not fix the problem replacement of the
ECU is necessary.

Re flash procedure.

Set the Parking Brake. Make sure the shift lever is in the neutral position. Start the UV.
With your foot on the Brake, push down the accelerator pedal slowly to the floor. The
motor will peak until the rpm’s reach the rev limiter. Keep your foot on the accelerator
pedal while turning off the ignition. Once the motor comes to a complete stop you can
release the accelerator pedal. Wait approximately 15 seconds and you should be able
to turn the ignition key to the on position and fault codes should be gone.

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