Reversed Logo - white

This Budapest City Guide has been specially produced by Lonely Planet for Lloyds TSB

Budapest City Guide

Old-world charm and cosmopolitan living on the banks of the Danube.

Straddling the romantic Danube River, with the Buda Hills to the west and the start of the Great Plain to the east, Budapest is the most beautiful city in central Europe. Architecturally, Budapest is a gem. And with parks brimming with attractions; museums filled with treasures; pleasure boats sailing up and down the scenic Danube; Turkish-era thermal baths belching steam; excellent, cheap and abundant food; and a heaving, hot nightlife the Hungarian capital is a delight both by day and by night.

0 !
0 0

Aquincum buda Island (Hajgyrsziget)

People's Island (Np Sziget) Istvntelek

3 km 2.0 miles

Remetehegy Buda Hills buda

BUDA, RZSADOMB & MARGARET ISLAND Zldml Vrhalom

jlak Vzafog

Margaret Island Felhvz (Margitsziget) Rzsadomb

BUDA HILLS & BEYOND

NORTHERN RING ROAD AREA jliptvros Liptvros

Herminamez

Rzmal BUDA CASTLE HILL & VZIVROS Vzivros (Watertown)

CITY PARK & BEYOND

BELVROS & LIPTVROS

Terzvros Erzsbetvros PEST

Farkasrt Belvros Tabn Nmetvlgy Gellrt Hill SOUTHERN RING ROAD AREA Jzsefvros

Sasad

GELLRT HILL, TABN & KELENFLD

Ferencvros

Kelenfld Lgymnyos

4 | Budapest Guide / Facts & Figures

Facts & Figures

Population: 2.3 million Latitude: 47 30N Longitude: 19 5E Area: 525 sq km Timezone: GMT/UTC +1

Daylight savings Starts: last Sunday in March Ends: last Sunday in October Weights & Measures: Metric Electricity: 220V, 50Hz

Breakout box

Area codes: All localities in Hungary have a two-digit telephone area code, except for Budapest, which has just a 1. Cheaper or toll-free blue and green numbers start with the digits 06-40 and 06-80 respectively.

Orientation
Budapest is in north-central Hungary. The focal point is the Danube River, which bisects the city into two distinct parts: Buda is mostly residential and built on the hills and high river terraces of the western side; and commercial Pest is on a large, sandy plain across to the east. It is a sprawling city, with the areas beyond the Nagykrt (literally the Big Ring Road) in Pest and west of Moskva tr in Buda mostly residential or industrial and of little interest to visitors. It is also a well laid-out city; youll have done well to get yourself lost. Ferihegy International Airport is 24km (15mi) southeast of central Budapest. Religion: Roman Catholic 51.9%, Calvinist 15.9%, Lutheran 3%, Greek Catholic 2.6%, other Christian 1%, other or unspecified 11.1%, unaffiliated 14.5% > 0.5L of Dreher beer in pub/cafe Ft400-700 > Local English-language newspaper Ft400-700 > Cheap bottle of wine from supermarket Ft750 > Dinner for two at a good restaurant in provinces/Budapest Ft9000/15,000

View of Pest from Buda Castle

tipping
Hungary is a very tip-conscious society and virtually everyone in Budapest routinely tips waiters, hairdressers and taxi drivers. Doctors and dentists accept gratitude money, and even petrol station and thermal spa attendants expect something. If you were less than impressed with the service at the restaurant, the joyride in the taxi or the way someone cut your hair, leave next to nothing or nothing at all. He or she will get the message loud and clear. The way you tip in restaurants is unusual: you never leave the money on the table (this is considered both rude and stupid in Hungary); instead, you tell the waiter how much youre paying in total, or how much change you expect to be returned to you. Some restaurants add a service charge to the bill automatically, making a tip unnecessary.

Money
Currency code: HUF Currency name: Forints Currency symbol: Ft Current unit: Forint

Relative cost (Rooms)

> Low > Mid > High Ft150 Ft250-500 Ft 2500 Ft200-400 Ft288-296 under Ft7500 Ft7500-15,500 Ft15,500+

Society
People: Hungarian 92.3%, Roma 1.9%, other or unknown 5.8% Languages spoken: Hungarian 93.6%, other or unspecified 6.4%

sample pRices
> Litre of bottled water > Cup of coffee in a cafe > Souvenir T-shirt > Street snack (lngos) > Litre of petrol

Relative cost (meals)

> Low > Mid > High under Ft1500 Ft1500-3000 Ft3000+

6 | Budapest Guide / Before You Go

Before You Go
WHen to go
Budapest averages just over 2000 hours of sunshine a year, which is among the highest in Europe and provides many opportunities to visit Budapest in reasonably fine weather and avoid the madness and expense of Europes high season. Both spring and autumn are glorious in Budapest, with plenty to see and do; the winter cold doesnt really hit until mid-December, when many museums and tourist sights close. Often, even in winter there are spectacular blue skies. During Budapests (usually) very long and very hot summer, kertek (literally gardens but in Budapest any outdoor spot that has been converted into an entertainment zone) have been emptying out even the most popular indoor bars and clubs since 1999. Venues and locations change frequently; for a definitive list, the best single source of information is the Pestiside website (www.pestiside.hu).

BatH HoUse
Budapest lies on the geological fault separating the Buda Hills from the Great Plain, and more than 30,000 cubic metres of warm to scalding (21C to 76C) mineral water gush forth daily from 118 thermal springs. As a result, the city is a major spa centre, and taking the waters at one of the many baths or spaswimming pools is a real Budapest experience. Some of the baths date from Turkish times, others are art nouveau wonders, while a few more are spic-and-span modern establishments.

Transport
getting tHeRe & aWaY
Budapest can be reached directly from destinations around the world, including the far flung USA and China, but its most important gateways are in continental Europe, especially now that what Hungarians call the fapados (wooden bench) airlines the super discount carriers such as Air Berlin (www.airberlin.com), EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Wizzair (www. wizzair.com) have arrived, bringing the cost of flying between Budapest and dozens of European cities to a level that fits most travellers budgets.

More and more cyclists are seen on the streets and avenues of Budapest these days, taking advantage of the citys growing network of bike paths. Between mid-April and mid-October passenger ferries depart from IX Borros tr just north of Petfi Bridge. A hydrofoil service on the Danube River between Budapest and Vienna (5 to 6 hours) operates daily from late April to early October.

Health & Safety

No parts of Budapest are off limits to visitors, although some locals now avoid Margaret Island after dark off-season, and both residents and visitors give the dodgier parts of the 8th and 9th districts (areas of prostitution) a wide berth. Pickpocketing is most common in markets, the Castle District, Vci utca and Hsk tere, near major hotels and on certain popular buses (eg 7) and trams (2, 4, 6, 47 and 49). Taking a taxi in Budapest can be an expensive and unpleasant experience. Never hail a cab on the street; instead, call one from a phone private, mobile or public and give the number (almost always posted somewhere in the phone box) to the dispatcher.

cYcling
Parts of Budapest including City Park; Npliget; Margaret, budai and Csepel Islands and the Buda Hills are excellent places for cycling. At present, bike paths in the city total about 180km (112mi), including one along Andrssy t. There are places to rent bicycles on Margaret Island

getting aRoUnD
Budapest currently has three underground metro lines that converge (only) at Dek Ferenc tr. The metro is the fastest but obviously the least scenic way to go. The HV suburban train line, which runs on four lines, is almost like an additional above-ground metro line. BKV (Budapest Transport Company) currently runs 30 tram lines, some of which employ spanking-new rolling stock. Buses and trams are much of a muchness, though the latter are often faster and generally more pleasant for sightseeing.

visas oveRvieW
Citizens of virtually all European countries, as well as Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, New Zealand and the USA, do not require visas to visit Hungary for stays of up to 90 days. Nationals of South Africa (among others) still require visas. Check current visa requirements at a Hungarian consulate, any Hungarian National Tourism Office (HNTO) or Malv Hungarian Airlines office, or on the website of the Hungarian Foreign Ministry (www.mfa.gov.hu) as requirements often change without notice. Short-stay visas, which are the best for tourists as they allow stays of up to 90 days, are issued at Hungarian consulates or missions in the applicants country of residence. Be sure to get a short-stay rather than a transit visa; the latter is only good for a stay of five days.

ice sKating
In winter a huge outdoor ice-skating rink operates in City Park. It opens daily morning and afternoon, with a break for lunch. To avoid the crowds, visit on weekday mornings.

canoeing/KaYaKing
The best place for canoeing and kayaking in Budapest is on the Danube at Rmai-part; take the HV suburban line to Rmaifrd and walk east towards the river.

sWimming
Hungarians are keen swimmers and Budapest boasts dozens of indoor and outdoor pools (uszoda). Theyre always excellent places to get in a few laps (if indoor), cool off on a hot summers day (if outdoor) or watch all the posers strut their stuff (both). Many pools require the use of a bathing cap, so bring your own or wear the plastic one provided or sold for a nominal fee.

Activities
Bathing in Budapests many thermal baths and swimming pools some of which are as beautiful as palaces is not a luxury but a way of life, and a necessity for ones sanity. If you need to work up a sweat for this indulgence, cycling, rowing or caving should do the trick.

HoRse RiDing
The not-for-profit Hungarian Equestrian Tourism Association (www.equi.hu) can provide you with a list of recommended riding schools within easy striking distance of Budapest.
Traditional Hungarian dancers

8 | Budapest Guide / Events

Scams involving attractive young women, gullible guys, expensive drinks in nightclubs and a frog-marching to the nearest ATM by gorillasin-residence, have been all the rage in Budapest for well over a decade now. If it seems too good to be true, it probably is; these scams have cost some would-be Lotharios hundreds, even thousands, of dollars.

> New Years Day (official holiday) 1 Jan > Budapest Spring Festival (festival/event) Mar > 1848 Revolution/National Day (official holiday) 15 Mar > Easter Monday (official holiday) Mar/Apr > Budapest Fringe Festival (festival/event) Mar/Apr > Labour Day (official holiday) 1 May > Whit Monday (official holiday) May/June > Bridge Festival (festival/event) Jun > Formula One Hungarian Grand Prix (festival/event) Aug > Sziget Music Festival (festival/event) Aug > St Stephens/Constitution Day (official holiday) 20 Aug > Budapest International Wine Festival (festival/event) Sep > Budapest Autumn Festival (festival/event) Oct

> Budapest Art Fair (festival/event) Oct > 1956 Remembrance/Republic Day (official holiday) 23 Oct > All Saints Day (official holiday) 1 Nov > Christmas holidays (official holiday) 2526 Dec

Events
Budapest is a cultural mecca and has a long tradition of celebrating its chequered history; each of the four seasons has its own festivals. By far the capitals largest (200 events at 60 venues) and most important cultural festival is the Budapest Spring Festival, occurring in March at venues throughout the city. Hungarys premier sporting event is the Formula One Hungarian Grand Prix, held in midAugust each year. There are 10 public holidays annually.

Weather
Budapest has a temperate, transitional climate somewhere between the mild, rainy weather of Transdanubia, protected by the Alps to the west, and the harsh, variable climate of the flat and open Great Plain to the east. The Budapest spring arrives in early April and usually ends in showers. Summer can be very hot and humid. It rains for most of November and doesnt usually get cold until midDecember. Winter is relatively short and often cloudy and damp, but sometimes brilliantly sunny. What little snow the city gets usually disappears after a few days. January is the coldest month (with the temperature averaging -2C/28F) and August the hottest (21C/70F although summers can get much hotter than this average). The number of hours of sunshine a year averages just over 2000, among the highest in Europe; from April to the end of September, you can expect the sun to shine for about 10 hours a day.

History
HistoRY pRe-20tH centURY
Strictly speaking, the story of Budapest begins in 1873 when hilly, residential Buda and historic buda on the western bank of the Danube River merged with flat, industrial Pest on the east to form what was at first called Pest-Buda. But Budapests history is far more complicated than that. The Carpathian Basin, in which Hungary lies, has been populated by successive peoples for hundreds of thousands of years. A parade of Celts, Romans, Huns, Mongols, Turks, Slovaks, Austrians and Germans have re-forged and distilled Hungarys identity many times over. Magyars, as Hungarians call themselves, are part of the Finno-Ugric group of peoples, who
Speed skaters in City Park

originated in western Siberia. It is believed that one group of Magyars, fleeing attack, established themselves on Csepel Island and buda when Pest and Buda barely existed. Known for their equestrian skills, the greater Magyars raided far and wide, until they were stopped by the Germans in 955. This and subsequent defeats left them in disarray, and later forced them into an alliance with the Holy Roman Empire. In the year 1000, the Magyar prince Stephen was crowned Christian King Stephen I (later canonised Saint Stephen), with a crown sent from Rome by the pope, and Hungary, the kingdom and the nation, was officially born. The next two and a half centuries were marked by constant struggles between rival claimants to the throne, and land grabs by powerful neighbours, sending the kingdom into decline. A castle was built at Buda to arrest the slide and Pest was proclaimed a royal municipality. After the death in 1301 of Andrew III, the rpd Dynastys last in line, Hungary flourished with a succession of able rulers, beginning with Charles Robert, followed by his son Louis the Great and then Sigismund of Luxembourg (who founded a university at buda and erected the first pontoon bridge over the Danube). This period culminated in the golden reign of Matthias Corvinus (The Raven), who made the country one of Europes leading powers and brought Buda into the nations focus for the first time. In 1526, however, his successor was crushed inside two hours by the Ottoman Turks. This marked the end of a relatively prosperous and independent Hungary, sending the nation into a tailspin of partition, foreign domination and despair, the results of which are still evident in the ethnic mix today. Buda was sacked and burned before the Turks returned and took it for good in 1541. Resistance to Turkish rule forced the Turks out in 1699. Under the rule of the Austrian Habsburg Empire Hungary blossomed (economically and culturally), as did nationalism. Buda effectively became the German-speaking town of Ofen and by 1783 was the nations administrative centre, while Pest began to outgrow the city walls. Pest later became an important commercial centre, while Buda remained a royal garrison town. In 1849, under the rebel

10 | Budapest Guide / History

In 1873 Buda, Pest and buda united to form Budapest. This Age of Dualism instigated an unprecedented economic, cultural and intellectual rebirth. Much of what you see in Budapest today was built during this time from the grand boulevards and eclectic-style apartment blocks to the Parliament building and Matthias Church in the Castle District.
leadership of Lajos Kossuth, Hungary declared full independence. The Habsburgs were able to crush the revolution and instigated a series of brutal reprisals. However, passive resistance among Hungarians and a couple of disastrous military defeats for the Habsburgs eventually led to the Compromise of 1867, creating the Dual Monarchy of Austria the empire and Hungary the kingdom. In 1873 Buda, Pest and buda united to form Budapest. This Age of Dualism instigated an unprecedented economic, cultural and intellectual rebirth. Much of what you see in Budapest today was built during this time from the grand boulevards and eclectic-style apartment blocks to the Parliament building and Matthias Church in the Castle District.

retaliation. Many buildings around Pest to this day bear pockmarks and holes from the bloody showdown. This was followed by the worst reprisals in the countrys history, and the consolidation of the regime, which was led by Jnos Kdr, who managed to transform himself from traitor and most hated man in the land to respected reformer. He embarked on a program of goulash (consumer-oriented) Communism, and by the mid-1970s his reforms had successfully transformed Hungary into the most liberal and developed and richest nation in the region. However, continuing unemployment, a soaring inflation rate and mounting debt saw Kdr ousted in 1988. Following the collapse of Communism, the nation became the Republic of Hungary in 1989, paving the way for the first free elections in more than four decades.

Our authors top day out in Budapest

STEVE FALLON I wake up late on my last day in Budapest, work accomplished and conscience (if not head) clear. I skip breakfast and head for the Rudas Baths; some things are best done on an empty stomach, and what a cure for a hangover! After a therapeutic soak and a 15-minute tussle with a mountainous masseur, I hobble across Liberty Bridge, glancing up behind me at Lady Liberty holding a palm frond above her head atop Gellrt Hill, and jump on tram No 2, which runs along the river to jliptvros, Budapests leafy Upper East Side (sort of). Theres no better place in town than the Mri Vendgl for some Hungarian soul food. From here its just a hop, skip and a jump to Margaret Island. I may stroll, I may cycle, I may kip in the sun. But Im sticking to the beaten track... In this city of passion and with the dearth of affordable apartments, lovers seize every opportunity and, frankly, any bush will do. Walking past Parliament, St Stephens crown, orb and upended sword tempt, and it seems a shame to pass up the chance for another look at the Ethnography Museum across the way who can ever get enough of those butter churns, mangles and hammers and sickles? But I need a fix of Secessionist architecture and the M1 metro (the little underground) never fails me. Sinuous curves, asymmetrical forms and other bizarre shapes predominate. I can now concentrate on the really serious things a slice of something sweet at the Lukcs coffee house or a sundowner at one of the terrace caf-bars on Liszt Ferenc tr while eavesdropping on some diva at the adjoining Ferenc Liszt Music Academy. Dinner will be a stones throw away at Klassz, one of my favourite wine restaurants. Ill then move on to Giero for some honest-togoodness Gypsy music.

Recent HistoRY
In April 2002, Hungarians tired of their right-wing government and its bullish nationalist rhetoric, despite the strong economic growth it had managed to achieve, and voted the Socialists into power. Hungary joined NATO and became a full participant in the EU in 2004, although adoption of the euro is not expected for some years to come. Two days before accession to the EU, the Budapest city council revoked Stalins honorary citizenship of the city, granted in 1947 in recognition of his role in Hungarys liberation in WWII. In June 2005 parliament elected Lszl Slyom, a law professor and founding member of the Hungarian Democratic Forum (MDF), as the third president of the republic, to succeed Ferenc Mdl. Socialist Ferenc Gyurcsny was re-elected as prime minister in 2006, but his fortunes soured when a speech of his to a closed party meeting was leaked. In the speech Gyurcsny admitted his government had lied morning, noon and night in order to win the election. This sparked antigovernment riots in Budapest during the 50th anniversary celebrations of the 1956 Uprising. The 2008 financial crisis hit Hungary particularly hard. The purchasing power of the Forint declined, interest rates increased sharply and economic growth slowed. Hungary negotiated a rescue package of US$20 billion from the IMF to stabilise its economy.

moDeRn HistoRY
Austria-Hungary entered WWI as an ally of Germany with disastrous results and a republic was set up in Budapest immediately after the war. Hungarian Communists seized power, but were overthrown five months later by troops from Romania. In 1920 the Allies drew up a postwar settlement under the Treaty of Trianon, which drastically reduced Hungarian territory. Hungary sought help from the fascist governments of Germany and Italy to recover its land and found itself again on the losing side, in WWII. Budapest bore the brunt of Hungarys spilt blood, with the retreating Germans blowing up Buda Castle and every bridge spanning the Danube. In 1947 rigged elections brought the Communists to power. There was bitter feuding within the Party, with purges and Stalinesque show trials the norm. The nation was then rocked irrevocably by the 1956 Uprising, an anti-Soviet revolution in Budapest, which left thousands dead after brutal Russian military

Parliament building

12 | Budapest Guide / Sights

Sights
Budapests highlights include a cruise along the Danube, strolling along the riverfront or across romantic bridges, browsing through antique bookshops and jewellery stores, or taking the waters at one of the citys many Turkish-style baths. The city is well laid-out, rarely confusing, and ideal for walking.

Did you know?

BUDAPEST 1982 Ern Rubik, inventor of the Rubiks Cube, was born in Budapest, and in 1982 the city was proud host of the first ever Rubiks Cube World Championships. The winner was Minh Thai (USA), who sorted his cube in 22.95 seconds.
collection of foreign newspapers and a copy of every hing published in Hungary or the t Hungarian language. It was founded by Count Ferenc Szchenyi (17541820), father of Istvn Szchenyi, who endowed it with 15,000 books and 2000 manuscripts. There are two entrances to the Royal Palace. The first is via the Habsburg Steps, southeast of Szent Gyrgy tr and through an ornamental gateway dating from 1903. The other way in

is via Corvinus Gate, with its big black raven symbolising King Matthias Corvinus, southwest of the square.

Memento Park XXII Balatoni t 16-18 Tel: 1 424 7500 Url: www.mementopark.hu Transport: (bus) 150 from XI Kosztolny Dezs tr in south Buda
Home to almost four-dozen statues, busts and plaques of Lenin, Marx, Bla Kun and heroic workers such as have ended up on trash heaps in other former socialist countries Memento Park, 10km southwest of the city centre, is a mind-blowing place to visit. Ogle the socialist realism and try to imagine that at least four of these monstrous relics were erected as recently as the late 1980s; a few, including the Bla Kun memorial of our hero in a crowd by fence-sitting sculptor Imre Varga, were still in place when this author moved to Budapest in early 1992. Other attractions here include the replicated remains of Stalins boots, all that was left after a crowd pulled the enormous statue down from its plinth on XIV Dzsa Gyrgy t during the 1956 Uprising; and an exhibition centre in an old barracks with displays on the events of 1956, the changes since 1989 and a documentary film with rare footage of secret agents collecting information on subversives.

Royal Palace I Szent Gyrgy tr, Buda, Budavri Palota, southern end of Castle Hill Transport: (bus) 16, 16/a or 116
The enormous Royal Palace complex has been razed and rebuilt at least a half-dozen times over the past seven centuries. Bla IV established a royal residence here in the mid13th century and subsequent kings added to it. The palace was levelled in the battle to rout the Turks in 1686; the Habsburgs rebuilt it, but spent very little time here. Today the Royal Palace contains two important museums, as well as the National Szchenyi Library, which contains codices and manuscripts, a large

horror of terror, and the victims will always be remembered. The museum focuses on the crimes and atrocities committed by both Hungarys fascist and Stalinist regimes in a permanent exhibition called Double Occupation. But the years after WWII leading up to the 1956 Uprising get the lions share of the exhibition space (almost three-dozen spaces on three floors). The tank in the central courtyard is a jarring introduction, and the wall outside displaying many of the victims photos speaks volumes. Even more harrow ng are the reconstructed prison cells i (collectively called the gym) and the final Hall of Tears gallery. The excellent audio guide costs 1300Ft.

Fishermens Bastion Castle Hill Transport: (bus) 16, 16/a or 116

The bastion is a neo-Gothic masquerade that most visitors (and Hungarians) believe to be much older. But who cares? It looks medieval and offers among the best views in Budapest. Built as a viewing platform in 1905 by Frigyes Schulek, the bastions name was taken from the medieval guild of fishermen responsible for defending this stretch of the wall. The seven gleaming white turrets represent the Magyar tribes that entered the Carpathian Basin in the late 9th century. In front of the bastion is an ornate equestrian monument to St Stephen by sculptor Alajos Strbl.

House of Terror Andrssy t 60 Tel: 1 374 2600 Url: www.terrorhaza.hu Transport: (underground rail) M1 Vrsmarty utca
This startling museum is housed in what was once the headquarters of the dreaded VH secret police. The building has a ghastly history, for it was here that many activists of every political persuasion that was out of fashion before and after WWII were taken for interrogation and torture. The walls were apparently double thickness to mute the screams. A plaque on the outside of this house of shame reads, in part: We cannot forget the
The Little Princess

Museum of Fine Arts XIV Dzsa Gyrgy t 41 Tel: 1 469 7100, 1 363 2675 Url: www.mfab.hu Transport: (underground rail) M1 Hsk tere
The Museum of Fine Arts, on the northern side of Hsk tere, houses the citys most outstanding collection of foreign art works, in a building dating from 1906. The Old Masters collection is the most complete, with thousands of works from the Dutch and Flemish, Spanish, Italian, German, French and British schools between the 13th and 18th centuries, including seven paintings by El Greco. Other

14 | Budapest Guide / Sights

sections include Egyptian and Greco-Roman artefacts and 19th- and 20th-century paintings, watercolours, graphics and sculpture, including some important impressionist works. Theres usually a couple of excellent temporary exhibitions going on at any given time; a combined ticket (3200/1600Ft per adult/student or child) will get you into everything. Free English-language tours of key galleries depart at 11am Tuesday to Saturday, 2pm Tuesday and Friday, 1pm Wednesday and Thursday and 11am Saturday.

Kerepesi Cemetery Fiumei t 16 Tel: 1 314 1269, 1 323 5100 Url: www.nemzetisirkert.hu Transport: (tram) 24

About 500m southeast of Keleti station is the entrance to Budapests equivalent of Highgate or Pre Lachaise cemeteries. Established in 1847, some of the 3000 gravestones and mausoleums in this 56-hectare necropolis, which is also called the National Graveyard (Nemzeti Srkert), are worthy of a pharaoh especially those of statesmen and national heroes such as Lajos Kossuth, Ferenc Dek and Lajos Batthyny. Other tombs are quite moving (eg those of actress Lujza Blaha and poet Endre Ady). Southeast of the main entrance, plot 21 contains the graves of many who died in the 1956 Uprising. Sitting uncomfortably close by is the huge mausoleum for Party honchos, including the simple grave of Jnos Kdr, who died in 1989.

Basilica of St Stephen V Szent Istvn tr, Liptvros Tel: 338 2151, 311 0839 Transport: (underground rail) M2 Arany Jnos utca
Budapests neoclassical cathedral was built over the course of half a century and completed in 1905. Much of the interruption had to do with a fiasco in 1868 when the dome collapsed during a storm, and the structure had to be demolished and rebuilt from the ground up. The basilica is rather dark and gloomy inside, but take a trip to the top of the dome, which can be reached by lift and 146 steps and offers one of the best views in the city. To the right as you enter the basilica is a small treasury of ecclesiastical objects. Behind the main altar and to the left is the basilicas major draw card: the Holy Right Chapel. It contains the Holy Right (also known as the Holy Dexter), the mummified right hand of St Stephen an object of great devotion. It was returned to Hungary by Habsburg empress Maria Theresa in 1771 after it was discovered in a monastery in Bosnia. Like the Crown of St Stephen, it too was snatched by the bad guys after WWII but was soon, er, handed over to the rightful (ugh) owners.

Entertainment
For a city of its size, Budapest has a huge choice of things to do and places to go after dark from opera and folk dancing to jazz and pulsating clubs. Its almost never difficult getting tickets or getting in; the hard part is deciding what to do.

Caf Ponyvaregny XI Bercsnyi utca 5 Tel: 1 209 5255 Transport: (tram) 18, 19, 47 or 49
The Pulp Fiction is a great place that was supposed to be a local secret but, alas, is no longer. The old books and fringed lampshades are a nice touch and the coffee (200Ft to 700Ft) is some of the best in town. Chilled clientele.

Ferenc Liszt Music Academy VI Liszt Ferenc tr 8 Tel: 1 462 4636, 1 342 0179 Url: www.zeneakademia.hu Transport: (underground rail) M2 Oktogon
A block southeast of Oktogon, whats usually just called the music academy was built in 1907. It attracts students from all over the world and is one of the top venues for concerts. The interior, with large and small concert halls richly embellished with Zsolnay porcelain and frescoes, is worth a look even if youre not attending a performance.

Dreher Brewery & Beer Museum X Jszbernyi utca 7-11 Tel: 1 432 9700 Url: www.dreherrt.hu Transport: (underground rail) M3 rs vezr tere
Budapests and Hungarys largest beer maker has a museum at its brewery, where you can look at displays of brewing and bottling over the centuries. If you can muster up a group of at least 10, you can take a 1-hour Beer Voyage (adult/senior & student 1300/650Ft), which includes a tour, a film and a tasting and must be booked in advance on the internet.

Hungarian State Opera House VI Andrssy t 22 Tel: 1 3331 2550, 1 353 0170 Url: www.opera.hu www.operavisit.hu Transport: (underground rail) M1 Opera
The gorgeous neo-Renaissance opera house should be visited at least once to admire the incredibly rich decoration inside as much as to view a performance and hear the perfect acoustics. Visits are guided.

Holy Trinity statue

16 | Budapest Guide / Eating

Mumus VII Dob utca 18 Transport: (tram) 47 or 49

Everyones favourite chilled romkocsma (ruin bar), the bogeyman transforms from a cavernous vaulted beer hall in the cooler months to a wonderful outdoor kert in summer, with its own tree (real), stars (fake) and old oil drums masquerading as tables.

Klassz VI Andrssy t 41 Url: www.klassz.eu Transport: (underground rail) M1 Oktogon

Probably our favourite restaurant in Budapest at the moment, Klassz is mostly about wine Hungarian to be precise and here you can order by the 10cL measure from an ever-changing list of up to four-dozen wines to sip and compare. The food is of a very high standard, with foie gras in its various avatars and native mangalica pork permanent fixtures on the menu, as well as more unusual (and fleeting) dishes like Burgundystyle leg of rabbit (2390Ft) and lamb trotters with vegetable ragout. Reservations are not accepted; just show up and wait.

Nothin But the Blues VIII Krdy Gyula utca 6 Tel: 1 784 7793, 06 20 404 0304 Url: www.bluespub.hu Transport: (tram) 47 or 49
The oldest blues venue in town, NBB has been wailing for more than 15 years now. The name may be accurate Thursday to Saturday from 8pm, when theres always a live strummer or some such, but acts vary the rest of the week. Jamming is on Sunday afternoon and open mike on Monday night. Grab the in-house beer guitar and give it a go.

Csalogny 26 I Csalogny utca 26 Tel: 1 201 7892 Transport: (underground rail) M2 Batthyny tr
Judged by Hungarys most respected food guide to be the best restaurant in Budapest (the chef hails from Lou Lou), this new institution with the unimaginative name and decor concentrates its imagination on its superb food. Try the tenderloin of mangalica (a kind of pork) with Puy lentils (2800Ft) or the Australian lamb shoulder with polenta (4000Ft). A two-/three-course set lunch is a budget-extolling 1200/1400Ft.

Eating
Budapests grand culinary tradition stretches back to the 19th century. Though theres no shortage of Hungarian cuisine on offer in the city a meat- and spice-heavy style there are plenty of other choices to tempt palates used to lighter flavours.

Mzeum VIII Mzeum krt 12 Tel: 1 267 0375 Transport: (tram) 47 or 49

This is the place to come if you like to dine in old-world style, with a piano softly tinkling in the background. Its a cafe-restaurant that is still going strong after 125 years at the same location, near the Hungarian National Museum. The goose liver parfait (3900Ft) is to die for, and theres a good selection of Hungarian wines.

Kleves Kazinczy utca 35 & Dob utca 26 Tel: 06 20 213 5999, 1 322 1011 Transport: (tram) 4 or 6
Always buzzy and lots of fun, the Stone Soup attracts a young crowd with its delicious matzo ball soup (large/small 960/670Ft), tapas (890Ft to 1110Ft), lively decor and, of course, reasonable prices. Its a great place to try Hungarian food for the first time.

Shoes on the Danube memorial

18 | Budapest Guide / Shopping

Pozsonyi Kisvendgl XIII Radnti Mikls utca 38, Pest, jliptvros Tel: 1 787 4877 Transport: (tram) trolleybus 75, 76
Visit this neighbourhood restaurant on the corner of Pozsonyi t for the ultimate local Budapest experience: gargantuan portions of standard Hungarian favourites, rock-bottom prices and a cast of local characters. Theres a bank of tables on the pavement in summer and simple set weekday menus for 650Ft.

This chain of pawn and secondhand shops, with a number of branches around town, is always a fun place to comb for trinkets and treasures, especially if you dont have time to get to the Ecseri or City Park flea markets. Check out this branch for chinaware, textiles and furniture. Other stores include the Belvros branch for knick-knacks, porcelain, glassware and artwork and the Buda branch for jewellery, lamps and fine porcelain.

Shopping
New and old exist side by side in Budapest: from open-air markets selling farm produce to mammoth shopping malls that set new standards in variety. Theres a plethora of traditional products on offer, from folk embroidery to porcelain, goose feather duvets to Pick-brand salami.

Hotels & Hostels

Accommodation here runs the gamut from upbeat hostels in converted flats and private rooms in far-flung housing estates to luxury guesthouses in the Buda Hills and five-star properties charging upwards of Ft85,000 a night for a double. The low season is roughly from mid-October or November to March; the high season is essentially the rest of the year, when prices can increase substantially.

Magma V Petfi Sndor utca 11 Tel: 1 235 0277 Url: www.magma.hu Transport: (underground rail) M3 Ferenciek tere
This showroom in the heart of the Inner Town focuses on Hungarian design and designers exclusively with everything from glassware and porcelain to textiles and furniture.

Papillon Hotel II Rzsahegy utca 3/b, Rzsa-domb (Buda), 1024 Tel: 1 212 4750 Url: www.hotelpapillon.hu Transport: (tram) 4, 6
One of Budas best-kept accommodation secrets, this small 20-room hotel in Rzsadomb has a delightful back garden with a small swimming pool, and some rooms have balconies. There are also four apartments available in the same building, one of which boasts a lovely roof terrace.

Holl Atelier V Vitkovics Mihly utca 12 Tel: 1 317 8103 Transport: (underground rail) M1/2/3 Dek Ferenc tr
Off the northern end of Vci utca, this shop has attractive folk art with a modern look and remains a personal favourite place to shop for gifts and gewgaws.

Home-Made Hostel VI Terz krt 22, 1st fl Tel: 1 302 2103 Url: www.homemadehostel.com Transport: (underground rail) M1 Oktogon
This homey, extremely welcoming hostel with 20 beds in four rooms may not deserve inclusion on Unescos World Heritage List as its brochure says, but its unique enough, with recycled tables hanging upside down from the ceiling and old valises under the beds serving as lockers.
Szchenyi Bath and Spa

Bv XIII Szent Istvn krt 3 Tel: 1 473 0666, 1 325 2600 Url: www.bav.hu Transport: (tram) 4 or 6

20 | Budapest Guide / Further Reading

Theres a warmth to this place that will make you want to stay forever, and the old-style kitchen is museum-quality. Maybe it should get that Unesco listing.

Further Reading
A History of Hungary, Peter F Sugar (history/politics) Arguably the best single-volume history of Hungary in English. Between the Woods and the Water, Patrick Leigh Fermor (travel) Describing the authors 1933 walk through Central Europe, including Hungary, this is the classic travel account of the country. Budapest 1900, John Lukacs (history) An illustrated social history of Budapests glory years. Hungary & the Hungarians: The Keywords, Istvn Bart (culture) A quirky book that will guide you from ABC (a kind of greengrocers under the old regime) to Zsolnay porcelain. Stealing from a Deep Place, Brian Hall (travel) This is an account of biking across Southeastern Europe, focusing on life in communist Budapest in the 1980s.

Lnchd 19 I Lnchd utca 19 Tel: 1 419 1900 Url: www.lanchid19hotel.hu Transport: (bus) 86
We have visited, inspected and stayed in lots of hotels in our time, and we think this boutique number facing the Danube has the wow factor in spades. The Lnchd 19 won the European Hotel Design Award for Best Architecture in 2008 and, watching its facade form pictures as light sensors reflect and follow the movement of the Danube, we cant but agree. Each of the 45 rooms and three panoramic suites is different, with distinctive artwork and a unique chair (can you sit on that?!?) designed by art-college students. And you cant lose with the views: to the front its the Danube and to the back Buda Castle.

25% o Lonely Planet guidebooks

Please visit www.Lloydstsb.com/travel to obtain a discount code for the Lonely Planet website to get 25% o guidebooks. O er ends 31st March 2012

Before you go on holiday A message from Lloyds TSB

Remember to get your commission-free foreign currency and non-sterling Travellers Cheques

from Lloyds TSB by visiting your local branch, ordering online at www.lloydstsb.com (if youre Internet Banking registered) or calling us on 0845 3 000 000. Also, dont forget to take your Lloyds TSB Visa debit card, a simple, safe and flexible way to pay for things abroad (charges apply). Let us know where youre heading before you leave so well know to expect overseas transactions on your account. You can do this by telling your local branch or calling 0845 3 000 000.
Szchenyi Chain Bridge
2011 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. Lloyds TSB and our content providers (we) have tried to make the information on the website and in this Lonely Planet travel guide as accurate as possible, but it is provided as is. This information is general and may not be suitable for your particular needs. We accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience resulting from this information (including use or reliance on it). You should verify critical information (like visas, health and safety, security risks and travel advice) before you travel.

Update your mobile number by visiting www.lloydstsb.com (if you are Internet Banking registered) or call 0845 3 000 000.

Store the Lloyds TSB phone number (+44 1733 347 007) in your phone and call us if your Lloyds TSB debit card is declined while abroad. Your mobile number will not be used for marketing purposes, unless youve already agreed to this. Calls may be monitored or recorded. Our lines are open 24/7.