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Application of vitamin B1: 1 ampoule per 1 liter of warm water. Spraying, watering 1-2 times per month
during the period of active growth.
Application of vitamin B3: 1 ampoule per 1 liter of warm water. Water, spray 1-2 times a month. Can
be added to fertilizers and vitamin shakes for orchids.
The use of vitamin B6: 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water. Water, spray 1-2 times a month. If you add to a
cocktail to vitamin B3, the effectiveness will be much higher.
Application of vitamin B12: 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water. Water, spray 1-2 times a month.
Use of vitamin C: 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water. Water, spray 1-2 times a month.
The composition of the vitamin cocktail for plants may include two vitamins and more.
Adding glucose to a cocktail enhances the effect.
On a weakened plant should not be used more than once a month B6, B3 and B12. But B1, succinic
acid and glucose can be used quite often.
Water should be moderately warm, up to about 20 degrees Some B vitamins are destroyed in hot and
in bright light. Plants can be immersed whole, watered or sprayed.
Cocktails should be used alternately combining different vitamins according to the compatibility table.
EXAMPLES OF
B1 + PP + C COCKTAILS - for the growth of roots and leaves - once in 2-4 weeks.
B6 or B12 + zircon drop - to all newcomers under stress, adaptation, dividing, going to winter time,
once a month. Zircon add less often, only if necessary.
Amber acid tablet + glucose tablet + Vit B1 + B3 - With the loss of turgor.
Anti-stress treatment
It is used mainly for orchids, or plants native to tropical areas. These include: anthurium, monstera,
begonia rex, rattan. At home, these plants are 100% air humidity with a temperature of
26˚С. Therefore, in the afternoon the air here is suffocating. It is cold in the tropics at night. It is not
possible to create such climatic conditions in temperate latitudes. Therefore, in the summer, flowers
are experiencing real stress. In winter, they are in a state of sleep, but in the spring it is very difficult to
remove plants from it. In this regard, the winter and summer anti-stress treatments are different.
For winter processing, a solution is prepared from 1 tablet of succinic acid diluted in 3 liters of
water. Every 2 weeks, spray the plants with the resulting composition.
Summer processing is carried out, if there is a weak flowering, drooping leaves, or do not form
peduncles. Then the plants are sprayed with a solution prepared from 1 tablet and 1 liter of
water. Conduct the procedure in the evening, 1 time in 2 weeks.
During transplanting plants also experience stress. To avoid negative consequences, clean roots are
soaked in 0.1% acid solution for 0.5 hours.
Salvation of perishing plants
Prepare a 2.5% solution of succinic acid. Bathe the plant for 15 minutes. Planted in nutrient soil and
observed for 2 weeks. If the plant is large, it is first prepared for transplanting, and then abundantly
sprayed. If necessary, the procedure is carried out again.
For the appearance of babies With a
solution of 1 tablet of acid and a liter of water, watering is carried out, which stimulates
reproduction. This is done in the spring, when the plant begins to grow. An indicator of stimulation is
flowering.
CONSULTA SITEULș
https://www.7ya.ru/article/Vyrawivanie-gloksinij/
GLOXINES AND STRIPPOCORPES IN PETER AND (KIRISHI) 1 iulie 2016 la orele 19:09
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Plants look depressed. If you look closer, under the leaves you can see small cobwebs. This means
that the plants were attacked by spider mites, which are quite common in apartments. This is a very
small tick. It can not be viewed with the naked eye, as the size of the spider mite is less than 1
millimeter. But the presence of spider mites can be detected by a thin web between the leaves. The
mites suck the sap from the plants, leaving tiny spots like injections on the inside of the leaf. These
spots become discolored, and the leaves sometimes get a silvery shade, as well as from thrips, or
simply turn yellow and fall off, besides the spider mites can be a carrier of leaf curl virus. If a plant
with buds is attacked by spider mites, you may not wait for flowering. Flower buds fall, not opened,
or become ugly. A massive attack of spider mites can lead to a quick death of the plant. Almost
houseplants are exposed to the attack of spider mites, Spider mites appear when the room is dry and
hot. It can be both in summer and in winter. To successfully combat spider mites, you first need to
increase the humidity of the air, daily sprinkling the plant with warm water. Do not forget to spray
the leaves from the bottom. The best way to prevent spider mites is to maintain high humidity in the
air in the room. Spray the leaves of houseplants more often. Dicofol-based acaricide is used against
spider mites and is contained in many systemic aerosols. In the fight against spider mites, the
insecticides Aktellik and Fitoverm are effective. Treating plants against spider mites should be 3-4
times with an interval of 8-10 days. As soon as you see the small webs under the leaves, process the
plant. Sprinkle and place the plant pot in a large plastic bag. So you isolate the plant, the contact of
the plant with the insecticide will be higher, there will be no evaporation in the room. The package is
higher humidity, which will lead to the death of spider mites. This method is also good in the fight
against other pests of indoor plants and significantly reduces the number of treatments. The package
is higher humidity, which will lead to the death of spider mites. This method is also good in the fight
against other pests of indoor plants and significantly reduces the number of treatments. The package
is higher humidity, which will lead to the death of spider mites. This method is also good in the fight
against other pests of indoor plants and significantly reduces the number of treatments.
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GLOXINES AND STRIPPOCKES IN PETER AND (KIRISHI) 1 iulie 2016 la orele 19:13
Often white, winding stripes can be seen on the leaves of plants, and there are so many of these
bands that the leaves lose their decorative effect. This is how fly miners manifest themselves. Mine-
flies lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When the larvae of the fly-minera are bred, they gnaw
through the long, winding passages inside the leaves, feeding on the sap of the leaves. By
themselves, such moves in the leaves are not dangerous, but they spoil the appearance of the plant
and interfere with the photosynthesis process, destroying the chlorophyll in the leaves. On the leaves
of garden plants such winding passages on the leaves can be mistaken for traces of slugs. Minerals
are called some species of flies that lay eggs on the leaves, and their larvae gnaw long galleries in the
leaf blade. Houseplants can suffer from miner flies if brought to the garden for the summer. Attacked
by flies-minera more often exposed plants with dense, rigid leaves without a milky juice, such as:
chrysanthemum, pelargonium, chlorophytum, ivy, cineraria. In the room, plants rarely undergo
attacks by flies, therefore, for prevention, it is enough to carry out treatment with insecticides once a
month. Finding traces of the fly larvae larvae on the plant, remove the damaged foxes.
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Gloxinia and streptokarpus in Peter and (Kirishi) 1 iulie 2016 la orele 19:14
Thrips are small insect pests not more than 1 mm long. The ideal temperature for active life of thrips is
+ 20 + 28 ° C, and when the air temperature drops below + 10 ° C, they completely lose their
activity. Despite the fact that they have a pair of wings, thrips are not very mobile. Thrips larvae are
almost the same size as adults, but slightly lighter and have no wings. Thrips pierce the cells of petals,
buds, leaves of plants and suck the cell sap from them. Where thrips have already eaten, voids are
formed in the leaves. From this the surface of the leaves becomes silvery and shiny. Later, soot or
other fungi penetrate the puncture site. The leaves affected by thrips are no longer involved in
photosynthesis, and after a while they dry out. Some types of thrips inhabit the buds and
flowers, sucking the juice from the buds and petals of the open flowers. From this, the buds take on an
ugly shape, fall off, never open, and if they open, such a flower will no longer be decorative. In
addition, thrips are carriers of some viral diseases, for example, tomato ring spot virus, curly virus. If
the attack of thrips was directed at the flowers of the plant that had already opened, the petals of the
flowers become covered with dirty yellow spots, scratches, dry quickly, the flowers fade ahead of time,
the petals quickly fall. Thrips suffer from plants with white flowers. and thrips are operating on the
leaves, then they can easily be confused with the attack of spider mites, because in fact, and in
another case, the leaves get a silvery shade. But thrips, unlike spider mites, do not pull the web
between the leaves. The first sign of the presence of thrips can be the presence of peeled pollen from
the stamens on the flower petals or on the leaves of plants. True, the pollen can crumble in hot
weather, with strong wind, during transportation, or just walked past, touched a flower. Carefully
looking at the buds and flowers you can see yellow scratches or spots, the presence of which greatly
reduces the decorative effect. In order to make sure that there are thrips on the plant, it is necessary to
pluck a few flowers and shake them over pure white or black paper. Thrips Control Measures Maintain
constantly high air humidity. This, at any time of the year, is the ideal prevention and protection against
thrips. In room conditions, if possible, it is better to isolate plants affected by thrips from healthy
ones. Carry the plants very carefully: with a slight shaking, the larvae and adults easily fall from the
flowers and leaves and can wait a long time to re-live on the plants. The place where the plants were
affected by thrips, you need to wash well. In the affected plants in flower pots, it is also desirable to
remove the uppermost layer of the earth, since there may be thrips larvae there. At the time of
processing, it is highly desirable to remove all flower stalks and affected leaves on the plants. It will
take three or four treatments with an interval of 7-10 days. During the processing of indoor plants from
thrips, you can use a large plastic bag. Put the plant pot in it, sprinkle and close the bag tightly for 2-3
hours. This method is also good in the fight against spider mites. The only way to get rid of thrips is to
conduct a series of treatments with systemic insecticides, such as fitoderm, aktellikom (the safest to
use at home). In greenhouses, greenhouses or in the open ground, you can use vertimek, agravertine,
spark, mospilan, aktaru, and solutions of these drugs can be used not only for spraying, but also for
watering under the root. The combination of elevated concentrations, with a slight addition of the anti-
flea zoo shampoo, is quite effective. In the fight against thrips, the new drug Spintor, which is an
insecticide of natural origin, has highly recommended itself. Spraying with spintor is carried out strictly
according to the instructions with an interval of 7-10 days moreover, the solutions of these drugs can
be used not only for spraying, but also for watering at the root. The combination of elevated
concentrations, with a slight addition of the anti-flea zoo shampoo, is quite effective. In the fight
against thrips, the new drug Spintor, which is an insecticide of natural origin, has highly recommended
itself. Spraying with spintor is carried out strictly according to the instructions with an interval of 7-10
days moreover, the solutions of these drugs can be used not only for spraying, but also for watering at
the root. The combination of elevated concentrations, with a slight addition of the anti-flea zoo
shampoo, is quite effective. In the fight against thrips, the new drug Spintor, which is an insecticide of
natural origin, has highly recommended itself. Spraying with spintor is carried out strictly according to
the instructions with an interval of 7-10 days
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Gloxinia and streptokarpus in Peter and (Kirishi) 1 iulie 2016 la orele 19:17
Once I noticed that my favorite pelargoniums began to wither. And do not grow and do not disappear,
young leaves are becoming smaller, the leaves quickly turn yellow, curl. She used various growth
stimulants, sprayed against pests, and even spilled the land in a pot with an insecticide solution. All
this brought only a temporary improvement. I could not understand what the matter was, until I
decided to transplant them right in the middle of winter. It turned out that the earthworms were in the
pots. For the summer, I planted pelargoniums in open ground, and in the fall, fearing to disturb the root
system, I moved earthworms along with an earthy clod to the pot. At the beginning of autumn my
pelargoniums still held together, and by the middle of winter they completely withered. By the way,
buying indoor plants, even in the store, does not fully guarantee that there are no earthworms in the
pot. One of the readers shared, that she noticed an earthworm in a pot of a plant just purchased from
a store. Although they say that earthworms do no harm to a houseplant, I disagree. If your houseplant
does not grow, looks depressed, leaves turn pale or curl for no apparent reason, then ordinary
earthworms in a pot may be to blame. It would seem that earthworms loosen the ground next to the
roots, contributing to the aeration of the soil. But it is in open ground, where they feed on half-rotten
plant debris. And in the confined space of a pot, earthworms disturb and eat up the roots of a plant,
and indoor plants do not tolerate this. When I transplanted my pelargoniums, I did not see the young
white suction roots. Therefore, the water during irrigation is not absorbed, but remained at the bottom
of the pot. The ground below the pot has already begun to lock, drainage was not working. Here are
my flowers. Hence the conclusion: the presence of earthworms in a flower pot is highly
undesirable. Along with earthworms in the pot can be enkhitreousy. Do not confuse earthworms with
other pests (centipedes, larvae of the moth or skosari) that feed on the roots of the plants or gnaw the
plant completely. How to get rid of earthworms in a flower pot? To check whether the earthworms are
still there, immerse the whole flower pot in a basin of water so that the water is above the level of the
ground in the pot. As soon as the whole earth lump gets wet, all the earthworms will crawl out of the
pot and float. There is very little air in the water, the worms have nothing to breathe, they suffocate
and float to the surface. After you have collected all the worms, leave the pot in the bathroom for two
hours to get all the water in the glass from the pot. It is not necessary to water this plant for some time,
wait until the earthen room dries out, and only then resume watering. Likewise, you can get rid of
earthworms, digging perennials in the fall for storage. Also, earthworms quickly die in very dry
land. The thing is, earthworms breathe the entire surface of the body, which is covered with a moist
mucous membrane - skin. In dry land, the skin of the worms quickly dries out, breathing stops, the
worm dies. If you are preparing your own soil mixture for indoor plants, then steamed or calcined
garden soil before using Also, earthworms quickly die in very dry land. The thing is, earthworms
breathe the entire surface of the body, which is covered with a moist mucous membrane - skin. In dry
land, the skin of the worms quickly dries out, breathing stops, the worm dies. If you are preparing your
own soil mixture for indoor plants, then steamed or calcined garden soil before using Also, earthworms
quickly die in very dry land. The thing is, earthworms breathe the entire surface of the body, which is
covered with a moist mucous membrane - skin. In dry land, the skin of the worms quickly dries out,
breathing stops, the worm dies. If you are preparing your own soil mixture for indoor plants, then
steamed or calcined garden soil before using
GLOXINES AND STRIPPOCKES IN PETER AND (KIRISHI) 1 iulie 2016 la orele 19:18
White insects, similar to fleas, jump on the surface of the substrate in pots. How harmful are
they? Obviously, these are sub-piles that appear from over-irrigation, in unsterilized substrates and
earth mixtures, just like enchitreuses - pottery or flower worms. They are not harmful, but can gnaw
the leaves of plants. Their presence in the house is extremely unpleasant! To avoid their appearance,
use only high-quality, sterilized substrate, adjust the watering. To get rid of them, treat the soil and
plant with insecticide.
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Tatiana Cibirova-Davydova 30 nov 2018 la orele 14:01
Feed the plant with superphosphate or another special fertilizer, in which there is much more
phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen, for example, diammofoska.
It happens that the leaves of gloxinia begin to discolor. This is a sign of magnesium fasting. It is
necessary to feed your plant with liquid supplements with trace elements, where magnesium is
present.
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It happens that shoots from Gloxinia are strongly drawn out, the plant falls on the window sill, loses its
attractiveness and decorative effect. This happens from a lack of lighting and an overabundance of
heat, usually in the winter or spring period of its growth. Lighting needs to be added artificial, using a
phyto lamp or fluorescent light. It is necessary to reduce the temperature with the help of wet cleaning
of the room and spraying the ambient air, not forgetting that gloxinia does not like direct water falling
on its leaves and flowers. Do not overfeed with nitrogen. From this, too, shoots can be strongly
drawn. This, strongly stretched, escape is best cut and rooted - it will have time to bloom in the same
year. And cropped gloxinia will give a new shoot from a tuber - try not to let it stretch again.
In addition, some varieties of gloxinia are simply prone to this disadvantage. Maybe you just like that?
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It happens that when gloxinia picks up the buds and opens the sepals, inside is a barren flower in the
form of a green pea. Very soon, the pedicel, on which was an underdeveloped bud, darkens. Cut it
off. Perhaps, gloxinia wintered in too cold conditions. Spray the flower with a growth promoter, such as
Zircon or Appin. Check whether your pet is comfortable? Maybe something needs to be
corrected. Watch the other buds - perhaps the problem will be solved without your intervention, and
there will be no more empty flowers.
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Buds do not open until the end, turn brown, become lethargic and fall off. Inspect your flower. Perhaps
this is a consequence of plant damage with thrips or spider mites. Then, treat gloxinia with insecticides
(see above). If there are no parasites on Gloxinia, then the reason lies in the fact that the plant has
collected too many buds. She simply does not have the strength, power or lighting to bring all the buds
to flowering. Gloxinia, therefore, asks for your help. Feed the plant with complex fertilizers so that they
contain more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. Organize additional lighting plants, adjust the
temperature and humidity in the room.
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Gloxinia does not pick up buds and does not bloom. This happens for several reasons: 1) from an
oversupply or lack of nitrogen in the soil; 2) from insufficient lighting; 3) when the growing temperature
is too low for gloxinia; 4) if the soil lacks phosphorus and potash trace elements; 5) if you are too lazy
to transplant Gloxinia into the new fertile land after the winter; 6) if she is planted in a pot that is too big
for her, in which she eats, gathers leaves and increases tuber, to the detriment of flowering; 7) if the
flower did not have a rest period; 8) if the rest period was too short, and the tuber did not have time to
prepare for the new season;
9) Perhaps your favorite is too old. The older the plant, the less it blooms. Think about replacing or
reproducing it.
VITAMINKI FOR PLANTS !!!
B1 - Thiamine, improves circulation of juices.
B3 - Nicotinic acid, suitable for plant resuscitation, improves reproduction.
B6 - Pyridoxine - immunostimulant.
B12 - Cobalomin, directly involved in the synthesis of chlorophyll, saturates the cells with oxygen.
Thiamine (vitamin B1) is a water-soluble vitamin B that helps cells produce energy from
carbohydrates.
Thiamine improves blood circulation in man and juice in the plant. It has a positive effect on the level
of energy for growth. Thiamine acts as an antioxidant, protecting it from the damaging effects of
harmful factors and natural aging.
Sold in a pharmacy in 1 ml ampoules.
Application: Dissolve 1 ml of vitamin B1 in 1 liter of water. Soak, water spray plants. It should be borne
in mind that it decomposes in daylight. It can be used both independently and in combination with
fertilizers, with each irrigation, and, if necessary, for a long time. Its surplus is well derived, does not
accumulate and does not cause any negative effect. Vitamin B3 (PP) - Niacin, niacinamide
(nicotinamide), nicotinic acid.
A very important vitamin. This is the only vitamin that is involved in hormonal metabolism. In traditional
medicine it is used including. and to restore human reproductive function. It has a similar effect on the
plant, i.e. pushes for new growths or flowering, because It is used to produce the necessary hormones
and other important chemical signaling molecules. It is also the only vitamin that traditional medicine
considers to be medicine and is widely used in the treatment of post-infarction and post-stroke
conditions. Ideal for plant resuscitation. Neither high temperature, nor acids, nor alkalis, nor powerful
ultraviolet radiation will do anything with niacin. Other forms of vitamin B3 (PP) are also
resistant. Thanks to this property, it can be safely mixed with other vitamins and added to any fertilizer,
fertilizer. But do not allow an overdose. The maximum dose of 1 ml diluted in 1 liter of water, apply
(watering, spraying) no more than 1 time in 10 days. Adding one more of the vitamins: B1, B6, B12 will
only enhance the positive effect. Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine)
In addition to the important role of this vitamin in metabolism, it is a good immune stimulant. Well, this
factor can be successfully used for the treatment of weakened plants, plant adaptation, as a
prophylactic agent and after the application of insecticides and fungicides, in general, for which you
need to improve the immune system, I think you know without me. The dosage for use is the same 1
ml of pyridoxine per liter. water, also no more than 1 time in 10 days to make when watering or
spraying. More effective to use in conjunction with vitamin B3 (PP).
Vitamin B12 (cyanocobalamin, cobalamin)
This vitamin is also important in the process of metabolism, which contributes to the normal growth of
plants. But its main value is that it directly participates in the photosynthesis of chlorophyll (this is the
substance that gives green color to plants), has cobalt in its formula, nourishes plant cells with enough
oxygen. Its application is very important in the winter and autumn-spring period, when there is little
light and we rarely ventilate the premises, thereby reducing the level of oxygen in the air. We apply
absolutely similar to Vitamin B6.