bag

VARIATION
slouch

PROJECT
VINYL by CHERYL KUCZEK
PLEATHER WEB PROJECT
FAUX LEATHER

FALL 2011

You can make this stylish bag

with designer details from a
variety of heavyweight fabrics.
Sew it in pleather or vinyl for
an upscale look.

FABRIC
—3⁄4 yd (69 cm) of 58–60" (147.5–152.5 cm)
wide pleather/faux leather/vinyl for bag
shell (Main; shown: textured reddish brown;
narrower fabric may be used, see Notes)
—7⁄8 yd (80 cm) of 45" (114.5 cm) wide cotton
fabric for lining (Contrast 1; shown: multi-
floral)
—1⁄3 yd (30.5 cm) of 45" (114.5 cm) wide silk for
trim (Contrast 2; shown: turquoise satin)
—1⁄4 yd (23 cm) of 45" (114.5 cm) wide cotton
fabric for pocket linings (Contrast 3; shown:
pink and orange print)
—13⁄8 yd (1.3 m) of 45" (114.5 cm) wide cotton
muslin

OTHER SUPPLIES
—5⁄8 yd (57.5 cm) of 58" (147 cm) wide
headliner (such as Annie Soft and Stable)
—1⁄4 yd (23 cm) of double-sided fusible ultra-
firm interfacing (such as Fast-2-Fuse)
—Matching threads for sewing the
shell and lining
—Contrasting thread for topstitching
(recommended: 12 wt cotton)
—Two 1" (2.5 cm) (inside diameter) metal
rings (see Notes)
—One 2" (5 cm) (inside diameter) metal
ring (see Notes)
—Getta Grip Clips
—Rotary cutter, rigid acrylic ruler,
and self-healing mat
—Teflon, ultra-glide, or glide presser
foot for sewing machine
—Zipper foot for sewing machine
—Size 90/14 or 100/16 denim or topstitch
needle for sewing machine
—Roller chalk marker
—Scotch tape
—Pinking shears or rotary cutter pinking
blade
—Permanent marker to match pleather
(optional)
—Slouch Bag pattern on pages 7–16

FOR EXPLANATIONS OF
TERMS + TECHNIQUES USED
CLICK HERE FOR OUR
SEWING BASICS ONLINE

© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Please respect the copyright by not

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document interweavestitch.com
PAGE 1 OF 16
 VARIATION
slouch
FALL 2011
bag VINYL
PLEATHER
FAUX LEATHER

FINISHED SIZE necessary to adjust the needle thread ten- From the ultra-firm fusible interfacing, cut:
12" wide x 81⁄2" high at center x 4" sion; always test stitch settings on a scrap —1 Bottom
deep (30.5 x 21.5 x 10 cm) closed; before sewing the project.
12" (30.5 cm) high flat
2 Layer a Main fabric Shell Panel, wrong side
PREPARE THE PIECES up, a corresponding headliner Panel, and a
corresponding muslin Panel and clip the lay-
NOTES 1 Cut the following pieces as directed. ers together along the edges with Getta Grip
—All seam allowances are 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) unless From Main fabric, cut: Clips. Baste 1⁄4" (6 mm) from the raw edges
otherwise noted. —One 6" (15 cm) wide x wof (width of fabric) (figure 1). Repeat the entire step to layer and
—For explanations of terms and techniques, strip (for strap, strap tabs, and tab) baste the remaining Shell Panels, headliner,
see Sewing Basics at interweavestitch.com/ —If using 54" (137 cm) wide fabric only: cut an and muslin.
sewingbasics. additional 6" x 16" (15 x 40.5 cm strip to be 3 Repeat Step 2 to layer and baste the Main
—If you are unable to find pleather/faux used for strap tabs fabric Bottom to its corresponding headliner
leather/vinyl in a 58–60" (147.5–152.5 cm) —One 2" (5 cm) wide x wof (width of fabric) and one muslin piece.
width, buy 1 yd (91.5 cm) of 54" (137 cm)
wide instead. If you choose this option, look
strip (for strap loops and binding) 4 Shorten the ultra-firm interfacing piece by
for additional and/or alternate instructions —4 Shell Panels (cut 2, cut 2 reverse) cutting off 11⁄2" (3.8 cm) on one long side and one
in italics in Steps 1–8 to account for the —1 Bottom short side. Sandwich the interfacing between
narrower-width fabric. the two remaining muslin Bottom pieces, leav-
From Contrast 1, cut:
ing a 3⁄4" (2 cm) margin around the interfacing.
—Do not press pleather/vinyl/faux leather —2 Lining Front/Backs Fuse the muslin to the interfacing following the
fabrics with an iron. Where the pleather is —2 Lining Sides manufacturer’s instructions (figure 2).
used (alone or combined with cotton or silk
fabrics), use only finger pressing to open
—1 Bottom 5 Layer the Lining Front/Back and Lin-
the seams. —2 Pockets ing Sides rightg side up p on top
p of the corre-
—Clip pieces together instead of pinning when From Contrast 2, cut:
working with the pleather/faux leather to —Two 2" x 16" (5 x 40.5 cm) strips for Pocket
avoid permanent pin holes. Trim
main fabric
—Use a rotary cutter to get straight, square —2 Upper Linings shell panel
cuts on pleather/faux leather. —2 Upper Lining Sides
—To avoid confusion, label each piece as you From Contrast 3, cut:
cut and check off each piece on the list as —2 Pockets
it is cut.
From muslin (interlining), cut:
—To make cutting easier, draw the pattern
pieces onto poster board. This gives you a —4 Shell Panels (cut 2, cut 2 reverse) muslin
more stable pattern piece to trace around so —3 Bottoms
the cutting goes more quickly. Use the roller —2 Lining Front/Backs
chalk marker to trace the pattern pieces —2 Lining Sides
onto the pleather/faux leather/vinyl. Cut headliner
carefully to avoid jagged edges. From the headliner, cut:
—If the pleather has a light or white edge, find —4 Shell Panels (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
a matching permanent marker to color the —1 Bottom
figure 1
edges. Be careful to color only the pleather
edges to avoid staining the other fabrics.
—The metal rings used can be found at most interfacing
hardware stores or at paradisiodesigns sandwiched
between
.blogspot.com.
—Steam and press all cut fabric (except trim 1½ "
(3.8 cm)
pleather/faux leather/vinyl) pieces before
beginning; do not press with an iron during
(3.8 cm)
1½ "

or after construction except as directed by

the instructions.
—All the straps will be sewn using The
Paradiso Designs by Cheryl Kuczek Trifold muslin
Strap Method©. For a tutorial on this interfacing
method, visit paradisodesigns.blogspot muslin
.com/2011/01/method-monday-tutorial- bottom
on-pleathervinyl.html.
—When using 12 wt thread for topstitching,
use a topstitching needle and lengthen the
stitch to 3.5–5.0 mm for a more attractive
appearance and to lessen the chance of
cutting through the pleather. It may also be figure 2

© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Please respect the copyright by not

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document
PAGE 2 OF 16

FALL 2011
bag
upper lining
side
lining
side
muslin
muslin
figure 3
fold
figure 4
sponding muslin pieces. Staystitch a scant 1⁄4"
(6 mm) from the bottom edge of each Upper
Lining and Upper Lining Side piece. Clip
the curves as necessary, clipping to but not
through the stitches, then finger-press 1⁄4”
(6 mm) to the wrong side on the bottom edge
of each piece. Pin the Upper Lining pieces
in place along the top of each Lining piece
(figure 3). Edgestitch the bottom folded edge
of each upper piece through all layers.
ASSEMBLE THE STRAPS + TABS
If using 54" (137 cm) wide Main fabric only:
repeat Steps 6 and 7 with the 6" x 16"
(15 x 40.5 cm) strip.
6 The 6" (15 cm) wide Main (pleather) strip
is sewn in one length and then cut to make
the strap pieces and the tab. Draw a line 2”
(5 cm) from one long edge on the wrong side
of the strip.
© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Please respect the copyright by not
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document
VARIATION
slouch
VINYL
PLEATHER
FAUX LEATHER
upper lining
lining front/back
(7.5 cm)
3"
(7.5 cm)
3"
figure 5
7 Fold the long edge farthest from the
guideline to the wrong side so the raw edge
meets the guideline. Hold the fold in place
with Getta Grip Clips or tape. Using contrast-
ing topstitching thread, edgestitch 1⁄16" (2 mm)
from the fold, removing the clips as you come
to them. Fold the remaining long edge to meet
the edgestitching and clip into place. Edge-
stitch 1⁄16" (2 mm) from the fold (figure 4). The
side of the strip with the visible raw edge is
the wrong side. With the strip right side up,
topstitch 1⁄8" (3 mm) inside the rows of edge-
stitching. Add two more rows of topstitching,
each 3⁄8" (1 cm) inside the previous stitches.
Note: When sewing multiple lines of topstitch-
ing or edgestitching on pleather, always sew
in the same direction.
8 Square one end of the strip if necessary.
Cut a 51⁄2" (14 cm) length for the tab. Cut two
71⁄2" (19 cm) lengths for the strap tabs (if using
54" (137 cm) wide Main fabric only: cut the
71⁄2" [19 cm] lengths from the prepared 16"
[40.5 cm] strip instead). The remainder of the
strip (about 36" [91.5 cm]) will be used for the
strap; leave it as is to allow flexibility when the
bag is assembled.
9 Cut 14" (35.5 cm) from the 2" (5 cm) wide
strip to make the strap loops. Set the remain-
der of the strip aside to be used for the trim
at the top of the bag. Draw a guideline on the
wrong side of the strip 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) from one
long edge. Repeat Step 7 to prepare the strip,
but eliminate the last two rows of topstitch-
ing. Square the strip end, if necessary, and cut
four 3" (7.5 cm) long pieces for the strap loops
that hold the straps in place.
ASSEMBLE THE SHELL
0 Sew two layered shell panels, right sides
together, along the shortest side. Finger-
press the seam open, pin in place and top-
stitch 1⁄8" (3 mm) from the seam on both sides,
holding the seam allowances in place. Repeat
with the other two layered shell panels.
- Measure 3" (7.5 cm) from the top and bot-
tom of each topstitched seam and mark with
a strip of tape across the seam. Place a strap
loop above each upper tape and below each
lower tape. Use a clear gridded ruler aligned
with the seam to make sure the strap loops
are perpendicular to the seam. Tape the strap
loops in place to hold while stitching, keeping
the tape in the middle of the loop, away from
the stitching areas. Topstitch each end of the
loop 1⁄8" (3 mm) from the edge, then again 1⁄4"
(6 mm) from the edge (figure 5). Begin and
end the lines of topstitching with the needle
just beyond the folded edge of the strap loop
to secure the loop completely and backtack at
the beginning and end of each row of stitches.
Remove the tape.
= Thread one strap tab through a 1" (2.5 cm)
ring and fold 11⁄2" (3.8 cm) of the strap tab to
the wrong side. Topstitch 1⁄8" (3 mm) from the
strap tab end. Sew back and forth at least
three times, beginning and ending with the
needle just beyond the edges of the strap tab.
Sew another row of topstitching 1⁄4" (6 mm)
from the end of the strap tab. Repeat to as-
semble the second strap tab and ring.
q Tuck the end without the ring of one strap
tab through the lower strap loop on one side
of the bag, right sides up. Match the strap tab
and shell raw edges with the strap tab cen-
tered on the seam and baste 1⁄4" (6 mm) from
the raw edges. Repeat to position the second
strap tab on the other shell side seam.
w Pin the assembled shell panels right sides
together and stitch the long seams for the
center front and back. Press the seams open
and topstitch as in Step 10.
e Mark the center of each side of the Main
fabric bottom with chalk or tape; these marks
are the locations for the four topstitched
shell seams. On the bottom edge of the shell,
measure and mark 2" (5 cm) to each side of
each side seam (the shorter seams). Make a
1
⁄2" (1.3 cm) long clip into the seam allowance
at each mark, cutting through all the layers, to
PAGE 3 OF 16
 VARIATION
slouch
FALL 2011
bag VINYL
PLEATHER
FAUX LEATHER

enclosing the seam allowances and creating

side
seam
figure 6
release the shell seam allowances at the bot-
tom corners. With right sides together, pin the
shell to the bottom, matching the shell seams
to the marks and the clipped seam allowances
to the bottom corners (figure 6). The shell’s
shorter side seams align with the centers of
the bottom’s short sides.
r Beginning near the center of one side,
stitch the bottom to the shell. Stop one or two
stitches before the corner with the needle
down, pivot the work, and stitch diagonally
across the corner, just above the clip, for
three or four stitches, then pivot again and
continue along the next side (figure 6).
Repeat around the entire bottom, overlapping
the beginning stitches for about 1" (2.5 cm) at
the end.
ADD THE POCKETS
t Pin one Contrast 1 Pocket to each Contrast
3 Pocket, wrong sides together. Pin a Pocket
Trim strip to one pocket’s top edge on the
Contrast 3 side, right sides together, and sew
with a 3⁄8" (1 cm) seam allowance. Press the
trim and seam allowances away from the
pocket. Press the free raw edge of the trim 5⁄8"
(1.5 cm) to the wrong side, then fold the trim
over the top of the pocket to the front (Contrast
1 side), enclosing all raw edges; the fold of the
trim will cover the previous seam. Edgestitch
the folded trim edge. Cut the excess trim flush
with the side edges of the pocket. Repeat to
construct the second pocket.
y Find the middle of each pocket by fold-
ing it in half and mark the center from top
to bottom. Pin one pocket to an assembled
lining front/back with the Contrast 1 sides
up, matching the side and bottom raw edges.
Sew along the center line from bottom to
top through all thicknesses. At the top of the
pocket, pivot 180 degrees and change to a
satin zigzag 0.3–0.4 mm long and 5.0 mm
wide. Stitch over the seam from the pocket top
to the bottom of the trim strip, change back to
a regular straight stitch, and continue sewing
over the original seam to the bottom of the
pocket and lining. Repeat to attach the other
pocket to the second lining front/back piece.
ASSEMBLE THE LINING
u Pin a lining side to a lining front/back and
sew, beginning the seam 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) from
the bottom raw edges (at the point where the
seam lines cross). Finger-press the seam
open, pressing the pocket seam allowance to-
ward the lining side to reduce bulk. Topstitch
both sides of the seam as in Step 10. Repeat
the entire step to join the other lining pieces
to the first pair.
i Sew the lining Bottom (Contrast 1) to the
assembled lining as in Step 16, this time
matching the seams to the corners of the
bottom piece. The 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) left open at the
bottom of each seam replaces clips to release
the lining seam allowance at the bottom
corners.
FINISH THE BAG
o Place the lining (wrong side out) into the
shell (right side out) so the wrong sides are
together. The center of each lining side piece
will match the corresponding side seam of the
shell, and the upper raw edges of the shell
and lining match. Sew with a 1⁄4" (6 mm) seam
allowance.
p Use the rest of the 2" (5 cm) wide strip
from Step 9 to bind the top edge as follows.
Trim one long edge of the strip with pink-
ing shears or a rotary cutter pinking blade,
shaving a tiny amount from the strip width.
Clip or tape the straight strip edge to the bag’s
upper edge, right sides together, beginning at
one side seam. When the strip end meets the
beginning, trim the excess length, leaving a 1"
(2.5 cm) overlap. Sew the strip to the bag with
a 3⁄8" (1 cm) seam allowance. Finger-press the
strip and seam allowances away from the bag,
then fold the strip to the lining side of the bag,
a 3⁄8" (1 cm) wide binding on the outside. Clip
or tape in place on the lining side. Stitch in
the ditch with a zipper foot along the binding
seam, catching the pinked edge of the strip
inside the bag.
[ Slip one end of the remaining strap
through the upper strap loop on one side of
the bag, with the wrong side of the strap next
to the bag. Slip the strap end through the loop
attached to the strap tab and fold 11⁄2" (3.8 cm)
to the wrong side around the ring. Pull the
strap tab and strap outward to move the ring
away from the bag side and stitch the end of
the strap as in Step 12.
] Thread the other end of the strap through
the upper strap loop and ring on the other
side of the bag, making sure the strap is not
twisted. Try on the bag and decide how long to
make the strap by adjusting the amount of the
strap folded around the ring. Trim the excess
strap, leaving 11⁄2" (3.8 cm) for the hem. Stitch
as in Step 12.
\ Fold 11⁄4" (3.2 cm) of the 51⁄2" (14 cm) tab
to the wrong side, folding it around the 2"
(5 cm) ring. Topstitch the strap end as in
Step 12. Center the other end of the tab on
the bag’s center back seam, right sides up,
overlapping the bag’s bound edge by 3⁄4" (2
cm). Topstitch the tab end to the bag as in
Step 12. To close the bag, flip the back and
tab over the front, allowing the tab’s weight
to hold the edges together in a slouchy profile.
CHERYL KUCZEK is the designer of the inde-
pendent sewing pattern line, Paradiso Designs.
She enjoys teaching children and adults how to
sew cool fun things while thinking outside the
box. You can find her at paradisodesigns.com
and see what she’s doing at paradisodesigns
.blogspot.com.

© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Please respect the copyright by not

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document
PAGE 4 OF 16
 SPRING 2011 pattern
GETTING STARTED Basic techniques and terms
you’ll need to know for the pattern you have downloaded.

ASSEMBLING FULL-SIZE PATTERN PRINTOUT PATTERN SYMBOLS + MARKINGS

|
1 When prepar-
ing to print the PDF, BUTTON + BUTTONHOLE
make sure that you are PLACEMENT MARKS Solid lines indi-
printing it at 100% and cate buttonholes. A large open circle is
that there is no scaling. the button symbol and shows placement.
Check the settings for
page scaling (should be Test Square XL
L CUTTING LINES Multisize
“None”) and check the
2" 2" [5 5 cm] M patterns have different cutting
preview to make sure S
that you will be printing XS
lines for each size.
at full size. Make sure
that the box labeled “Au- PLACE ON FOLD BRACKET This is
to-Rotate and Center” a grainline marking with arrows pointing
is unchecked (instruc- to the edge of the pattern. Place on the
tions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another PDF fold of the fabric so that your finished
reader, check for similar settings). piece will be twice the size of the pattern
|
2 To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, piece, without adding a seam.
check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square
should be 2" × 2" (5 × 5 cm). GRAINLINE The double-ended arrow
|
3 To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted should be parallel to the lengthwise
margin around each page.
grain or fold unless specifically marked
|
4 The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be
is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up the rows and match the
diagonal.
dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together.
Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern
is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and fol- NOTCHES Notches are triangle-shaped
low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern. symbols used for accurately matching
seams. Pieces to be joined will have cor-
LAYOUT, MARKING + CUTTING GUIDELINES responding notches.
|
1 Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace
the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto DARTS Lines and dots mark darts.
the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel.
The lines show where the stitching will
|
2 If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting be, and the dot shows the position of
two of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half,
the dart point (signaling the point, at
selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this
the end of the dart, where your stitching
technique is not appropriate for some fabrics, so check the
should end).
project instructions if you are unsure.
|
3 Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together PATTERN DOTS Filled circles indicate
as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be
that a mark needs to be made (often on
cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold.
the right side of the fabric) for placement
|
4 Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric of elements such as a pocket or a dart
with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless
point. Mark by punching through the pat-
a crosswise or bias grainline is present.
tern paper only, then mark on the fabric
|
5 Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric
through the hole.
unless otherwise noted.
|
6 Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project
SLASH MARKS A dashed line (some-
instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to
cut out of your fabric and interfacing. times appearing with pattern dots)

|
indicates an area to be slashed. Further
7 Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use
pins to secure the corners as needed. instructions for making the slash will be

|
included in the pattern instructions.
8 Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.

© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Please respect the copyright by not

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document interweavestitch.com
PAGE 5 OF 16
 VARIATION
slouch
FALL 2011
bag VINYL
PLEATHER
FAUX LEATHER

1a 1b 1c 1d
SLOUCH BAG

SLOUCH BAG
UPPER LINING
cut 2 contrast 2

UPPER LINING SIDE

SLOUCH BAG
cut 2 contrast 2
cut 2 muslin (interlining)
SLOUCH BAG

cut 2 contrast 1
LINING SIDE

2a 2b 2c 2d

cut 1 ultra-firm fusible interfacing

SLOUCH BAG

cut 3 muslin (interlining)

SHELL PANEL

SLOUCH BAG
cut 4 main

cut 1 contrast 1
cut 1 headliner
(cut 2, cut 2 reverse)

cut 1 main
BOTTOM
cut 4 muslin
SLOUCH BAG
(interlining; cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
POCKET
cut 2 contrast 1 cut 4 headliner
cut 2 contrast 3 (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)

3a SLOUCH BAG
LINING FRONT/BACK
cut 2 contrast 1
3b
cut 2 muslin (interlining)

© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC Please respect the copyright by not

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document
PAGE 6 OF 16
 1a

SLOUCH BAG
LINING SIDE
cut 2 contrast 1
SLOUCH BAG

cut 2 muslin (interlining)

1b
1c

SLOUCH BAG
UPPER LINING
cut 2 contrast 2
 1d

SLOUCH BAG
UPPER LINING SIDE
cut 2 contrast 2
2a
2b

SLOUCH BAG
POCKET
cut 2 contrast 1
cut 2 contrast 3
 SLOUCH BAG
BOTTOM
cut 1 main
cut 1 contrast 1
cut 3 muslin (interlining)
cut 1 headliner
cut 1 ultra-firm fusible interfacing
2c
2d

SLOUCH BAG
SHELL PANEL
cut 4 main
(cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
cut 4 muslin
(interlining; cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
cut 4 headliner
(cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
3a SLOUCH BAG
LINING FRONT/BACK
cut 2 contrast 1
cut 2 muslin (interlining)
3b