Diploma in Fashion Design

Delve into
Design
Summary Notes
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Contents

3 Introduction

3 Lesson outcomes

3 Introduction to the principles of design

4 The principles of design

6 Design with the principles of design

7 Conclusion

7 References
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Lesson outcomes
By the end of this lesson, you should be able to:

• Define principles of design

• Discuss role of design principles
• Identify each design principle
• Explore good design
• Analyse designs

Introduction
The designer is in the driver’s seat when it comes to mapping the path for the eye to travel. When planning this design road
trip, ask yourself the following questions: Where does the eye linger? And what makes it dart away? Understanding how the
principles of design work allows the designer to experiment with fashion and develop a design style.

Introduction to the principles of

design
Elements and principles of design
To understand the principles of design, you first need to understand the
relationship between the elements and the principles of design. The following
simile describes this relationship well:

When baking a cake, the principles of design is the process or directions you need
to follow to bake the cake, where the elements of design are the ingredients. The
‘raw ingredients’ can change the ‘taste’ of your design. The principles are flexible
and should be interpreted within current fashion trends.

Principles of design
The principles of design are guidelines that assist the designer to better
understand and use the elements of design in effective ways. With the help of the
design principles, designers learn how to use the elements to create designs that
are creative, appealing, and functional.

Role of principles in fashion design

The principles of design are the rules that artists and designers use to create
visual compositions. Designers use this to make sure that whatever they are
designing accurately and effectively delivers their intended message and vision.
In fashion design, these principles apply to both the garment’s basic structure
and its decoration.
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The principles of design

Introduction
When drawing a design, you need to think about a lot of things like who you are designing for, what type of garment
you are developing, the design elements, and for what season. To do so, the principles of design must be properly
applied and executed.

The principles
Proportion

Proportion is the comparative relationships between distances, sizes, amounts, degrees, and parts. It can be applied to one-
dimensional lines, two-dimensional shapes, and three-dimensional forms. Spatial characteristics have very little meaning
unless they are compared to something else, therefore the main idea of proportion is ‘in relation to’. In fashion design,
proportion is the size relationship of each of the spaces within a garment to one another and to the whole design.

The main purpose of this principle is to create something that is pleasing to the eyes. Ideas of ugliness and beauty are
subjected to personal and/or cultural preferences, but some guidelines have proven acceptable throughout many centuries
and in many cultures. These guidelines, or proportional formulas, have been labelled as the golden ratio. This proportion,
approximately equal to 1:1.618 seems arbitrary, but can be found everywhere, like art, architecture, and nature.

The golden ratio is not the only way to design and should not be adopted as an absolute rule. It is only a general rule that
aims to please the eyes. Lots of beautiful clothes are designed where the rule has been deliberately ignored. The most
beautiful application of proportion seems to have a slight deviation, those that defy precise analysis. These unequal
proportions are often more interesting and creative than equal proportions.

Balance

If the shape of your design is the outline, balance is how the internal spaces of a shape work together. The surface of a design
may be broken up by functional and decorative style lines, trims, different colours, and different textures. Just like
proportion, for a design of a garment to be pleasing it must be balanced. The balance of your design can either be formal or
informal.

Formal balance is symmetric and refers to the correspondence in size, form, and arrangement of parts on opposite sides of
a line or point. This means the design and the design details are divided equally to create a centered balance. A design with
slight deviations is still considered to be approximately symmetrical. Symmetric balance is the easiest and the most logical
way to create stability in design, therefore it is the most used in fashion design.

Informal balance is the lack of symmetry. Asymmetric balance is when the design and its design details are divided
unequally from the center. This imbalance creates more interesting design visuals, often achieved with diagonal lines and
off-centered closings. This type of balance is usually reserved for fashionable garments due to its dramatic effects.

Rhythm

Rhythm in fashion design is the flow of lines, shapes, colours, and textures of the design or garment. When used effectively,
it can create a powerful effect, whether it is achieved through the repetition of regular features, by the motifs printed on
fabric, or by the gradual change of the size or colour of a design detail. It also has the potential to guide the eye from one
area of the garment to another.
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Emphasis

Emphasis is the center of interest that draws the viewer’s attention to the focal point of the garment. This focal point must
create more interest than any other element in the design. When too many areas of interest are presented, the viewer’s
attention is divided.

Contrast

Contrast is the use of different colours, textures, and shapes to show or emphasise differences. It is one of the most powerful
design principles, causing the eyes to re-evaluate the importance of one area of focus against another.

Harmony

Harmony is the arrangement of the principles and elements in a garment. It is not the exact opposite of contrast, but it does
imply similarity in areas such as colours and textures that blend well together.

Unity

This principle refers to the repetition of a design element throughout a garment that creates a sense of unity. When a
garment has unity, all the different parts work together to create a whole. On the contrary, the use of too many design
elements or details in one garment can be distracting.

Radiation

Radiation is the use of design lines that fan out from a pivotal point, creating a sunburst effect. The eyes move from the
central point to the outer areas of the design.

Gradation

Gradation is when a design detail is featured in a gradating pattern. This can be achieved by using a single shape, design
detail, print, size, or colour. It has the potential to guide the eye from one shape or colour to another.

Repetition

This principle refers to the repeated use of a certain design element, trims, or design detail in design creating a
sense of movement. This is particularly important when you are designing a collection because the repetition of
a design detail, colour, and/or silhouette can help carry the theme throughout the whole collection.

Scale
A6E
Scale refers to the relationship between the garment and its design details.
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Design with the principles of design

Role in fashion design

• To create designs that are both aesthetically pleasing and functional.

• To determine whether a design is successful or not. If the principles are used well, it will succeed in fulfilling
its purpose.

• To communicate your message to the viewer of the design.

How to analyse designs

• Critical thinking is the objective analysis and evaluation to form a judgement about a design.

• Determine the successful use of the principles and elements of design.

• Recognise the design elements and principles that resonate with you as a designer to develop a design style.

How to create a good design

Generally, a good design is achieved when the elements and principles of design work together harmoniously. Following
are a few tips to help you create good designs:

• Try many variations before creating one that has the perfect combination of the elements.

• Objectively determine whether all the elements work together to create a consistent visual effect.

• Sketch a lot.

• Be creative and celebrate flexible thinking.

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Conclusion
It really is not that difficult to understand the basic elements and principles of design, their purpose, and role in design. By
practicing the principles and elements of design, you can save a lot of time and use this to guide you during the design
process.

Notes
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References
• Gbetodeme, S., Amankwa, J. and Dzegblor, N., 2016. Basic Design, a Needed Foundation for Designing a
Successful Garment: A Case Study of Dressmakers in the Ho Municipality, Volta Region, Ghana. Journal of
Education and Practice, 7(3), pp.55-61.
• Jones, S., 2011. Fashion Design. London: Laurence King Pub.
• College Fashion. 2019. The Golden Ratio & Fashion. [online] Available at:
<https://www.collegefashion.net/fashion-tips/golden-ratio-
fashion/#:~:text=This%20proportion%2C%20approximately%20equal%20to,of%20leaves%20and%20pe
tals%20on>
• Robinson, A., 2019. What Are The 7 Principles Of Design?. [online] Available at:
<https://blog.prepscholar.com/principles-of-design>
• Siaw, S., Kermevor, A. and Dzramedo, B., 2014. The appropriate effects of elements and principles of
designing apparel in fashion. Global Journal of Arts Humanities and Social Sciences, 2(9), pp.1-12.
• Van Herpen, I., 2020. Radiation Invasion | Couture | Iris Van Herpen. [online] Available at:
<https://www.irisvanherpen.com/haute-couture/radiation-invasion>
• Victor & Rolf, 2020. Viktor & Rolf At Paris Fashion Week Spring 2005. [online] Available at:
<https://www.livingly.com/runway/Paris+Fashion+Week+Spring+2005/Viktor+Rolf/9AWeVOn8joH>
• Volpintesta, L., 2014. The Language Of Fashion Design. United States of America: Rockport Publishers.
• We Connect Fashion, n.d. How-To: Retail - Principles & Elements: Aspects Of Design. [online] Available at:
<https://www.weconnectfashion.com/articles/principles-elements-aspects-of-
design#:~:text=There%20are%20four%20elements%20of,)%2C%20rhythm%2C%20and%20emphasis.>