Grand

Couturiers
Haute Couture Licence Holders

Prepared by: Laiba Arshad

Submitted to: Ma’am Teeba Syed
Date：22-June-2022
 PREFACE

Grand couturiers are the most

important and dominant part of fashion
world. The designers with haute couture
licence are called Grand Couturiers. This
topic is full of interesting facts about the
designers known all over the world, and
the knowledge about their struggles, and
hard working. To become a well known
designer what you have to go through
and experience is only known by
studying today’s well known designers’
life.
CONTENTS

Introduction to Haute
Couture

Grand Couturiers

Brands Collections

Zuhair Murad
 INTRODUCTION

WHAT IS FASHION?

Fashion is a term commonly used to describe a style of

clothing worn by most of people of a country. A fashion
usually remains popular for about 1-3 years and then is
replaced by another fashion. Even though there are a lot of
changes in fashion, most people do not easily except the
changes.

A clothing style may be introduced as a fashion, but its

use becomes a custom after being handed down from generation to
generation. A fashion that comes and goes is called a Fade.

WHO DECIDES WHAT’S IN?

Designers can greatly influence what direction fashion will go in.
Working five or six months ahead of the season, the press attends fashion
shows presenting designer collections; the
media will then give editorial coverage to
trends they think their readership is
interested in.
Store buyers work many months in
advance of the season to place orders with
manufacturers for styles they think their
customers will want to buy.

MY VIEWS REGARDING FASHION

» The real fashion is not the clothes and appearance,but the attitude of life
and the state of mind. Being not all fashionable elements suit us.
» Facing with the fashion, we should not persue blindly.we should choose
the things what are match with us,that is our own fashion.
» Everybody should have her own style.If she does not have her own
viewpoint to the vogue, so will become tiresome.
 HAUTE COUTURE
Haute couture is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion
design that is constructed by hand from start-to-
finish. Translated literally, couture is French word for
dressmaking, while haute means high. These are
garments created as one off pieces for a specific
client. 19th century Englishman Charles Frederick
Worth is considered as the father of Haute Couture.
Today members are selected by the Chambre
Syndicale de la Haute Couture. To qualify as an
official Haute Couture house, members must design
made-to-order clothes for private clients, with more
than one fitting, using an atelier (workshop) that
employs at least fifteen full-time staff. They must
also have twenty full time technical workers in one of
their workshops. Finally, Haute Couture houses
must present a collection of no less than 50 original
designs — both day and evening garments — to the
public every season, in January and July.

Haute couture is considered a legitimate form of art because although

there are pricy products involved, there is the process of creative thinking and
a way to inspire.

LEGAL TERMS OF HAUTE COUTURE

Haute couture is fashion at its most refined, it is a symbol of French

luxury. It refers to custom handmade garments which are exquisite
creations imagined by the world’s leading designers and made from high
quality, expensive, unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to
detail, crafted by a team of most-skilled artisans and craftsmen.
It’s no surprise that when it comes to fashion, France is a powerhouse.
Did you know the term Haute Couture (E XTERNAL LINK ) is a legal term
in France and for any collection to carry the label one has to pass a
series of criteria as follows, which was created in 1945?
» Design made-to-order for private clients.
» Have an atelier (workshop) in Paris that employs 20 full-time staff
members and at least 20 full-time technical people.
» Present a collection of at least 25 original designs twice a year
(January & July) at the Paris Couture Week.
Though the term Haute Couture is synonymous with the French culture,
it may come as a surprise that it was actually an Englishman named
Charles Frederick Worth who in 1858 founded the first true Couture
House at number 7, rue de la Paix in Paris.
The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (E XTERNAL LINK ) ,
the most important fashion organization in France, is responsible for
regulating the haute couture industry in Paris. It seeks to promote
French fashion culture, where Haute Couture contributes to bolstering
Paris in its role as worldwide fashion capital.

Haute couture is a highly protected term. Not any designer can call
themselves a couture designer. There are only 14 designers who bear
the label of haute couture. Christian Dior, Chanel, Ellie Saab and
Versace are some of the big names who produce haute couture.

‘Couture’ in recent times has become a term

carried by several fashion brands and which
may not necessarily belong to the label
“Haute Couture”. It can be seen in the
example of casual-wear brand Juicy Couture.
Sweatpants are decidedly a long way away
from the likes of Chanel and Givenchy so
how can they label themselves ‘couture’ at
all?
The word ‘couture’ has become part of the
pop culture. It’s been taken by nearly every
company on the planet.

Every year Haute Couture exhibitions or

events are held at some of the most famous
and extravagant museums and exquisite locations across the world like
the Palais de la Porte Dorée, Palais Galleria and The Musée Yves Saint-
Laurent in Paris, The Museum of Decorative Arts in Bordeaux, the
Victoria and Albert museum in London and the national museum of
Scotland in Edinburg.

A few Parisian museums and art galleries can also host or arrange tours
related to fashion within their institutions. Between legendary figures and
Couture designers, these exhibits are astonishing!
The exhibitions are magical, theatrical, historical and cinematographic
highlighting the couturiers creative process, some previously unseen
pieces as well as some extraordinary vintage designs.

--Within the heart of the Triangle d’Or (Golden Triangle) in Paris, is

where you will find the finest Haute Couture shops in the world
such as Dior, Chanel, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Balmain,
Givenchy and more!
 GRAND COUTURIERS
A grand couturier is a fashion designer that has
been inducted into the Chambre Syndicale de la
Haute Couture — a French federation that means
"trade union of high fashion." In order to become a
member, the grand couturier must be the head of a
haute couture — highly tailored fashion — house
and show his or her new collections in Paris at
least twice a year. Members of this union often
change and rotate, as the Chambre selects high-
fashion designers who have significantly
contributed to recent fashions in every aspect.

While their designs are not purchased by the

general population, most people are able to
recognize names of grand couturiers. Winter 2010
official grand courtiers include international high-
profile names such as Givenchy,
Chanel, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, and
Dominique Sirop. Often, such haute couture
names and fashions are featured in popular beauty
and fashion magazines, including Vogue, InStyle, and Elle.

It is difficult to decide who deserves the title "grand couturier" because

numerous designers have had influence in the fashion industry.
There are currently 16 grand couturiers:

» Adeline André,
» Alexandre Vauthier,
» Alexis Mabille,
» Bouchra Jarrar,
» Chanel,
» Christian Dior,
» Frank Sorbier,
» Giambattista Valli,
» Givenchy,
» Jean Paul Gaultier,
» Julien Fournié,
» Maison Margiela,
» Maison Rabih Kayrouz,
» Maurizio Galante,
» Schiaparelli,
» Stéphane Rolland.
GUEST MEMBERS

» Aelis
» Aganovich
» Antonio Grimaldi
» Azzaro
» Christopher Josse
» Georges Hobeika
» Imane Ayissi
» Iris van Herpen (since July 2011)
» Julie de Libran
» Rahul Mishra
» Ralph & Russo (since November 2013)
» RR331
» Ronald van der Kemp
» Ulyana Sergeenko
» Vaishali S
» Xuan
» Yuima Nakazato
» Zuhair Murad

FOREIGN MEMBERS

Azzedine Alaïa

Elie Saab

Fendi

Giorgio Armani

Valentino

Versace

Viktor & Rolf

 ADELINE ANDRE
Adeline André (born in 1949) is a French fashion designer and the head of
one of the ten haute couture design houses in Paris.

EARLY LIFE OF ADELINE ANDRE

She was born in Bangui, French Equatorial Africa in 1949 and studied at
the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. After her
graduation in 1970 she entered the House of Christian Dior as an assistant for
Haute Couture collections, working next Marc Bohan

CAREER
FIRST COLLECTION AND LATEST COLLECTION:
In 1981 she formed her own designer house, Adeline André. That same year
she also registered her most famous fashion innovation, the "three sleeve
holes" at the French National Industrial Property Institute and 1982 at
the World Intellectual Property Organization. Examples of this three sleeve
holes garment are in the collections of French Fashion Museum, Palais
Galliera in Paris, the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and the
Fashion and Design Museum in Lisbon.

In May 1997, André became an 'invited member' of the Syndicate Chamber of

Parisian Haute Couture and a 'permanent member' since January 2005. She
is currently the head designer at the fashion house that bears her name.
André also teaches color at her alma mater, participates in gallery and
museum exhibitions, and designs costumes for ballet, opera and theater.

» THE THREE HOLE SLEEVE;

» THE UNUSUAL FASHIONS OF ADELINE ANDRE

LATEST COLLECTION:
 ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER

Alexandre Vauthier is French

fashion designer, “Guest Member” of
the Chambre Syndicale de haute
couture.
Born on November 30, 1971, he
followed Art and Law classes before
coming to Paris, in order to become a
fashion designer. In 1991, he joined
the school ESMOD and graduated
it in 1994.

His talent would be soon noticed,

and in 1993, he begun an internship
at the prestigious Haute Couture fashion house of Thierry Mugler, who
supported him and taught him thoroughness of the construction of the
garment. Shortly after, he reached the status of assistant of the famous
designer himself.

Then, in 1997, he left him for another Maestro of Fashion: the provocative
and avant-gardist Jean Paul Gaultier. He was in charge of the Gaultier
Couture collection during eight years. At the end of this decade, Alexandre
Vauthier felt it was time for him to make his own rules. In 2008, he then
decided to found his own Haute Couture fashion house, under his own name.

CAREER
FIRST COLLECTION AND LATEST COLLECTION:
His first collections were ready in 2009, and the result astonished every
fashion critic and journalist. An army of Amazons poured into the catwalk,
strong and sensuous women with strong shoulders and waists, dressed with
dark grey gowns of radical yet sober cut. Elegant samurai mixed with insolant
Roaring 20s ghost, the woman according to Alexandre Vauthier is smart,
audacious like Audrey Hepburn and stunning like Grace Kelly.
LATEST COLLECTION:
 CHANEL
Chanel is a French luxury fashion house that was founded by couturière Coco
Chanel in 1910. It focuses on women's ready-to-wear clothes, luxury
goods and accessories.The company is
currently owned by Alain
Wertheimer and Gérard Wertheimer,
grandsons of Pierre Wertheimer, who was
an early business partner of Coco Chanel

In her youth, Gabrielle Chanel gained the

nickname "Coco". As a fashion designer,
Coco Chanel catered to women's taste for
elegance in dress, with blouses, suits,
trousers, dresses, and jewellery
(gemstone and bijouterie) of simple design,
that replaced the opulent, over-designed,
and constrictive clothes and accessories of 19th-century fashion. The Chanel
product brands have been personified by male and female fashion models,
entertainers, and actresses, including Margot Robbie, Lily-Rose Depp, Nicole
Kidman, Keira Knightley, Kristen Stewart, G-Dragon, Pharrell Williams, Cara
Delevingne, Nana Komatsu, Jennie Kim, and Marilyn Monroe.

COCO CHANEL
Chanel was born into poverty in the French countryside; her mother died, and
her father abandoned her to an orphanage. After a brief stint as a shopgirl,
Chanel worked for a few years as a café singer. She later became associated
with a few wealthy men and in 1913, with financial assistance from one of
them, Arthur (“Boy”) Capel, opened a tiny millinery shop in Deauville, France,
where she also sold simple
sportswear, such as jersey sweaters.
Within five years her original use of
jersey fabric to create a “poor girl”
look had attracted the attention of
influential wealthy women seeking
relief from the prevalent corseted
styles.

Faithful to her maxim that “luxury

must be comfortable, otherwise it is
not luxury,” Chanel’s designs
stressed simplicity and comfort and
revolutionized the fashion industry.
By the late 1920s the Chanel industries were reportedly worth millions and
employed more than 2,000 people, not only in her couture house but also in
a perfume laboratory, a textile mill, and a jewelry workshop.

FAMOUS PRODUCTS OF CHANEL

Its products cover clothes, fragrances, handbags and watches.The brand is
most famous for its;

» “Little Black dress”,

» The Chanel No. 5 perfume and
» The Chanel Suit.

CAREER
FIRST COLLECTION AND LATEST COLLECTION:
Opening her first shop on Paris’s Rue Cambon in
1910, Chanel started out selling hats. She later
added stores in Deauville and Biarritz and began
making clothes.
Her first taste of clothing success came from a dress
she fashioned out of an old jersey on a chilly day. In
response to the many people who asked about
where she got the dress, she offered to make one for
them. “My fortune is built on that old jersey that I’d
put on because it was cold in Deauville,” she once
told author Paul Morand.
CHANEL’S FIRST PERFUME
In the 1920s, Chanel took her thriving business to new
heights. She launched her first perfume, Chanel No. 5,
which was the first to feature a designer’s name.
Perfume “is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate
accessory of fashion. that heralds your arrival and
prolongs your departure,”Chanel once explained.

LATEST COLLECTION:
 ZUHAIR MURAD

Zuhair Murad is a Beirut-based Lebanese fashion designer. He is

considered to be one of the most talented designers of the 21st century, also
known as the secret weapon of the red carpet’s hottest starlets.

Zuhair Murad grew up in the Melkite Catholic family in a beautiful place of

Ras Baalbek., Lebanon in 1971. His inclination and passion for fashion was
visible from an early age. When he was 14, Zuhair won a TV contest with
three outfits which defined his personal and particular style. That childhood
passion led him to study at a design school in Paris.
In 1997, he opened his very first atelier in Beirut. In 1999, Murad celebrated
his international debut at the Alta Roma Fashion Week, following an invitation
from the Camera Nazionale della Moda, and three years later he presented
his couture collection for the first time during Haute Couture Week in Paris,
gaining momentum with international media.

Chosen by L’agenzia per la Moda

to appear at the official opening of
the 2001 festival in Rome. Murad
quickly became known as one of the
best designers in Italy. This was the
beginning of a new era for him. In
2005, he debuted the first Zuhair
Murad “Ready-to-Wear” Collection, a
more simple – yet still aesthetically
glamorous – contemporary line
designed to meet the expanding needs of his clients. Two years later
inaugurates his Parisian “Maison de Couture” in the heart of the Triangle d’Or
on “François 1er” Street.
 The international media has declared him
as ‘the star rocketing designer’ and ‘one of
the most promising young designers for the
new era’ due to his unique style and creativity
which ensure his ongoing successful career.
Furthermore during his widely acclaimed
‘Free Spirit’ show in Paris he was conveyed
as ‘Tomorrow’s Star’ by reputed leaders in
the business.

The big bang for him occurred at

2009, when a well-known celebrity, Jenna
Fisher made a stunning appearance at the
red carpet of the Golden Globes wearing his
floral, Grecian-like design. A few weeks later
Miley Cyrus shows up at the Academy
awards with an elaborate V-neck ball gown
with a tiered and scalloped skirt with Zuhair Murad’s signature. This particular
design was the one that made him stand out in the fashion industry and
allowed him to show his unique talent and heavenly sent taste to the masses.

Since 2009 an enormous amount of celebrities, not only actresses and

singers, started to believe in him and wanted to shine at important events with
his unique pieces. Sofia Vergara,
Catherine Zeta Jones, Jennifer Lopez,
Blake Lively, Kristen Stewart, Taylor
Swift, Miranda Kerr, Camila Alves, Kaley
Cuoco, Marrion Cotillard, Alessandra
Ambrosio and Nina Dobrev are just a
few examples of celebrities spotted with
his seams. Saudi Arabian Princess
Ameera Al-Tawee also chose a Zuhair
Murad creation to attend to the Royal
Wedding of Prince William & Catherine
Middleton.
His ability to turn every woman who
wears his amazing pieces into a goddess
make some believe that he stole
Cinderella’s fairy grandmother’s stick and
everything he designed was created with
pure magic! His unique creations that define
oriental exxence and beauty have made
their way towards all the major podiums,
boutiques, and personalities.

What initially began as a young boy’s hobby with little sketches and
pictures painted on paper and canvas has now grown into a small fashion
empire with strong regional recognition and a
growing global reputation. ‘I started from scratch
and worked my way up’, says the extravagant
Murad who’s adventurous and aspiring nature
have lead him to where he is today. Zuhair Murad
is the perfect example of how ambition
perseverance and creativity can take you strutting
through the real and eclectic runway of life.

Today over 100 dynamic and dedicated

employees continuously contribute to the
success of the Zuhair Murad Fashion House. The
team ensures everything from conceptual design
embroidery and accessories to the administrative
and public relations functions.

ZUHAIR MURAD AND CELEBRITIES

Adele, Marion Cotillard, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Ivana Trump, Cheryl
Fernandez-Versini, Beyoncé Knowles, Jennifer Lopez, Kellie Pickler, Najwa
Karam, Shakira, Katy Perry, Christina Applegate, Vanessa Williams, Ana Ortiz,
and many more have been seen wearing his dresses.

He has also dressed the likes of Najwa Karam in her video clips "Lashhad
Hobbak" and "MaFi Noum". Priyanka Chopra wore a white embellished
strapless gown by Zuhair Murad at her
maiden Oscars in 2016.
Miley Cyrus was seen wearing one of his
creations at the Academy Awards,
and Christina Aguilera and Jennifer
Lopez wore his creations at the
2011 Golden Globe Awards. He also
designed Miss France Chloé Mortaud's
dress for Miss Universe 2009 and 5 dresses
for the final of Miss France 2010. Florence
Welch was seen wearing one of his
creations during the Brits awards; a silver
silk dress with gold and silver beaded designs.

Blake Lively was also wearing a Zuhair Murad dress from his Spring 2012
Couture collection at the worldwide premier of her movie "SAVAGES" at
Westwood Village. She had also previously been seen in a Zuhair Murad
dress in a Season 4 episode of Gossip Girl entitled 'Juliet doesn't live here
anymore.' Kristen Stewart wore a Zuhair Murad dress at the 2012 TorontoFilm
Festival for a screening of her 2012 film, On the Road, and also at the
premiere in Los Angeles of her film, The Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn – Part
2.
French actress Marion Cotillard wore a floral Zuhair Murad dress from his Fall
2012 collection at the 2013 Critics' Choice Awards.