Wave Action and its Influence on the

Coastal Features in Scotts Head and

Soufriere
 Table of Contents

Table of Contents 1
Introduction 2
Aim 3
Methodology 6
Analysis and Presentation of Data 7
Conclusion 14
Bibliography 15
Appendix 16

1
 Introduction
Dominica is also known as the Nature Island of the Caribbean. This volcanic island
contains vast forests and rugged terrains that remain unscathed by human activity. Dominica is
surrounded by two different bodies of water: the Caribbean Sea on the west and the Atlantic
Ocean on the east. Waves are formed when the wind blows across the surface of the sea. On the
western side of the island there are constructive waves which are waves that deposit sediment on
the shoreline because they have a strong swash and a weak backwash. On the eastern side, there
are destructive waves that erode the shoreline because of their weak swash and strong backwash.
In Dominica, the coastal features vary from cliffs that are formed by destructive waves to
beaches that are formed by constructive waves. Coastal features are any relief features formed
because of wave action on the shoreline. For these reasons coastal features are formed at the area
of study in Soufriere and on the left side of the tombolo in Scotts Head, there are beaches and small
stones because of the constructive waves of the Caribbean sea, and on the right side of the tombolo
there is a cave which is a depression on a cliffside caused by the wave action of destructive waves
eroding the land and there are also larger rocks.

2
 Aim
This study aims to show how the coastal features located in southern communities Soufriere and
Scotts Head in Dominica are formed and altered, due to the erosional processes of waves.

3
Location of Study

4
5
 Methodology
On Monday, September 21, 2020, at noon, the investigators arrived at Bubble Beach, Soufriere.
The investigators spent 45 minutes at Soufriere before heading to Scotts Head. At Soufriere, the
investigators observed and recorded the wave height by using a metre rule. The investigators
compared the heights of five waves to the metre ruler, determining whether the waves were less
than a metre, equal to a metre, or more than a metre. Afterwards, the investigators chose a
reference point and used a timer to determine how many waves went by the reference point within
a minute. This was done 10 times, with the entire process repeated 2 times afterwards. Lastly, the
investigators measured the wavelengths. This was done by using the reference point chosen and
recording the length of time between each wave crest. This was done 10 times and the entire
process was done a total of 3 times

When the investigators arrived at Scotts Head, 45 minutes was spent observing and recording data
at the Caribbean Sea before walking over to the Atlantic Ocean for another 45 minutes and doing
the same. At the investigation sites, reference points were chosen so that further investigations
could be made. On the Caribbean side and the Atlantic side, a meter rule was used to determine the
wave heights. The investigators determined whether the waves were less than a metre, equal to a
metre, or more than a metre. This was repeated five times, and the process was done 3 times.
Next, the investigators, using a timer and the reference points chosen, counted the number of
waves passing within a minute. This was done 10 times, with the entire process repeated another 2
times. Finally, using the reference point chosen and a timer, the investigators recorded the amount
of time that had passed between 2 wave crests. This was done for 10 waves, with the process
repeated another 2 times.

6
 Analysis and Presentation of Data

Location 1: Bubble Beach, Soufriere

Wave Height

1 > 1 metre

2 > 1 metre

3 > 1 metre

4 > 1 metre

5 > 1 metre
Table 1.1: Wave Height at Soufriere

Figure 1.2: Wave Period at Soufriere

7
Figure 1.3: Wave Lengths at Soufriere

At Location 1, Bubble Beach, Soufriere, the waves are less than a metre, as seen by observations
recorded in Figure 1.1. The number of waves that went by in one minute can be seen in Figure 1.2
and the time between two waves can be seen in Figure 1.3. These two figures show that there were
few waves within a minute as well as little time between each passing wave. From these
observations, we can deduce that these waves are constructive waves or those that bring sediment
to the beach more than it removes from the beach because of the lack of energy within them (seen
as they are smaller waves with little frequency). Here, the investigators observed round stones (Fig:
1.4 below), with really fine sand and smaller stones closer to the water, as well as smoother, big
rocks. While there is a cliff present at the location, it is safe to assume that it was not formed by the
waves, and rather, by something else because the waves seen were constructive, and therefore
could not weather away from the area in which the cliffs were before.

Figure 1.4: Small Stones seen at Soufriere Beach

8
Location 2: Scott’s Head, Caribbean Side

Wave Height

1 > 1 metre

2 > 1 metre

3 > 1 metre

4 > 1 metre

5 > 1 metre

Table 2.1: Wave Height at Scott’s Head, Caribbean Side

Figure 2.2: Wave Period at Scott’s Head, Caribbean Side

9
Figure 2.3: Wave Length at Scott’s Head, Caribbean Side

At Location 2 or the Caribbean Side of the Scott’s Head Tombolo(seen in Fig:2.4), we observe
conditions similar to the first location. The waves are still small, or less than a metre tall, which can
be seen in Figure 2.1. From Figures 2.2 and 2.3 respectively, we can see the number of waves that
went by within a minute, and how much time between each. On average, there were 7 waves a
minute, with roughly 5 seconds between each wave, meaning these waves were more frequent and
contained a little more energy than the ones at Bubble Beach, Soufriere. From these observations
and the environment around the investigators, we infer that these waves were constructive as well.
In the area of study, there is a cave located towards the end of the tombolo and the beach was
recorded to have rounded, large stones with sand on the edge of the water. The cave was located
where the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean made contact. From this, we assume that the
Atlantic Ocean aided with the formation of the cave because the Caribbean Sea is known to be
gentle and constructive as opposed to the destructive Atlantic Ocean.

10
Figure 2.4: The Caribbean Side of the tombolo as seen from Soufriere

11
Location 3: Scott’s Head, Atlantic Side
Wave Height

1 = 1 metre

2 = 1 metre

3 = 1 metre

4 = 1 metre

5 = 1 metre
Figure 3.1: Wave Height at Scott’s Head, Atlantic Side

Figure 3.2: Wave Period at Scott’s Head, Atlantic Side

12
Figure 3.3: Wave Length at Scott’s Head, Atlantic Side

At Location 3 or the Atlantic Side of the Tombolo at Scotts Head where the investigators observed
waves equal to one metre, as seen in Figure 3.1. From this information, the investigators deduced
that these were destructive waves. In Figure 3.2 we can see that there were more waves within a
minute, showing the clear distinction between the constructive waves of the Caribbean Sea and the
destructive waves of the Atlantic Ocean. In Figure 3.3, we can see the amount of time that passed
between each wave, showing that since there were more waves in a minute, there was less time
between each wave. At this site of investigation, there was a lot of wind that carried saltwater. The
features here include the tombolo, as well as the cliff and rounded, smooth stones which were
formed possibly due to attrition and/or abrasion. The tombolo is safely assumed to be formed by
the weathering of the land on the Atlantic side due to the destructive waves found there as well as
the addition of sand and stone on the Caribbean Side done by the constructive waves seen there
combined with longshore drift. This allows for the tombolo to be built up outwards from the main
island (Dominica) and to the islet. The cliff seen on the Atlantic Side appeared to be formed by the
battering of waves due to the inward curve at the base, as well as folding.

13
 Conclusion
The data that was collected shows how the coastal features in the southern parts of Dominica
Soufriere and Scotts Head were formed and affected by wave action. The data was collected on a
beach in Soufriere and on both sides of the tombolo in Scotts Head. The data that was collected
proved that the different wave types and wave action alter the shoreline. The waves that were
recorded in Soufriere and on the left side of the tombolo in Scotts Head were almost identical
because they are both on the Caribbean side and they are constructive waves that deposit sediment
on the coastline hence the formation of the beaches and the small pebbles. On the right side of the
tombolo, the waves are stronger because they are in the Atlantic Ocean where there is a lot of wind
causing the waves to be destructive. This is why there is a cave caused by hydraulic action and
erosion, and there are larger stones that have been eroded on the cliffs.

14
 Bibliography
Image

[Scotts Head]. (n.d.).

https://316111.smushcdn.com/2090723/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/DJI_0179-1.jpg?size=1920x1

279&lossy=0&strip=0&webp=1

Website

Tombolo - Coastal landscapes - Higher Geography Revision. (n.d.). BBC Bitesize. Retrieved

December 15, 2020, from

https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize/guides/zsdmv9q/revision/6#:%7E:text=A%20tombolo%20is%20for

med%20when,moves%20material%20along%20the%20coastline.

15
 Appendix

Blank Copy of the Data Record Sheet

Name _____________________

Location 1 - Bubble Beach, Soufriere

Type of Wave ______________________________
Wind Direction and Speed __________________________
To determine this an anemometer will be used.
Direction of Longshore Drift_____________________
To determine this, throw a tennis ball into the water and leave it for 30 minutes. After this
period, note the direction in which it drifted.

Wave Height
To determine the height of the wave by estimating whether it is <1m, = 1m, or >1m. This
should be done 5 times. Picture a meter ruler as a reference.

Wave Height

Wave Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3

10

16
Wave Period
Using a timer, count the number of waves passing a reference point of your choosing within
one minute. This should be done 10 times. The entire process should be repeated two
additional times.

Wave Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3

10

17
Wave Length
Choose a reference point in the water and record the length of time it took between two
wave crests. This should be done 10 times. The entire process should be repeated two
additional times.

Wave Trail 1 Trial 2 Trial 3

10

Coastal Features at this location

Description of rocks and sediments at this location

18
Location 2 - Western Side of Tombolo ( Caribbean Sea)
Type of Wave ______________________________
Wind Direction and Speed __________________________
To determine this an anemometer will be used.
Direction of Longshore Drift_____________________
To determine this, throw a tennis ball into the water and leave it for 30 minutes. After this
period, note the direction in which it drifted.
Wave Height
To determine the height of the wave by estimating whether it is <1m, = 1m, or >1m. This
should be done 5 times. Picture a meter ruler as a reference.

Wave Height

Wave Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3

19
Wave Period
Using a timer, count the number of waves passing a reference point of your choosing within
one minute. This should be done 10 times. The entire process should be repeated two
additional times.

Wave Trail 1 Trail 2 Trail 3

10

20
Wave Length
Choose a reference point in the water and record the length of time it took between two
wave crests. This should be done 10 times. The entire process should be repeated two
additional times.

Wave Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3

10

Coastal Features at this location

Description of rocks and sediments at this location

21
Location 3 - Eastern Side of the Tombolo ( Atlantic Ocean)
Type of Wave ______________________________
Wind Direction and Speed __________________________
To determine this an anemometer will be used.
Direction of Longshore Drift_____________________
To determine this, throw a tennis ball into the water and leave it for 30 minutes. After this
period, note the direction in which it drifted.
Wave Height
To determine the height of the wave by estimating whether it is <1m, = 1m, or >1m. This
should be done 5 times. Picture a meter ruler as a reference.

Wave Height

Wave Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3

22
Wave Period
Using a timer, count the number of waves passing a reference point of your choosing within
one minute. This should be done 10 times. The entire process should be repeated two
additional times.

Wave Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3

10

23
Wave Length
Choose a reference point in the water and record the length of time it took between two
wave crests. This should be done 10 times. The entire process should be repeated two
additional times.

Wave Trial 1 Trial 2 Trial 3

10

Coastal Features at this location

Description of rocks and sediments at this location

24