Analytics

Retail Analysis: Men's S/S 21

Global stores confirm commercial menswear trends that
echo those at recent catwalk and trade shows, instilling
confidence in their longevity

Nick Paget
08.04.21 · 16 minutes

Abercrombie & Fitch

Key takeaways
As retail opens up, consumers' desires shift to more structured pieces, with
demand for woven products such as denim and shirts returning to pre-pandemic
levels. Comfort and a sense of fun remain the key drivers.

For all s ummer men's retail images , click into the Image Librar y, featur ing
over 6,000 in-s tore images from nine major cities and global e-commerce
mes s aging.
London: with a close eye on customers' lifestyles as well as key trends, the English
capital remains an important destination for directional product and inspirational
marketing around events like Father's Day.
New York: the directional US hub balances sporty modernity with collegiate
inspiration.
S eoul: hitting all the right notes across festival style, preppy themes and futuristic
directions, the South Korean city is great for aspirational and youthful brands.
Milan: wardrobe-building classics and the power of colour combine to make strong
statements that remain commercial in Italy's fashion capital.
Shanghai: find creativity and expressive fashions at this cosmopolitan destination,
providing inspiration to global players.

Macy's

1
Global product highlights 
H&M
ONE/SECOND/SUIT at
H&M
In the US, H&M has revealed
ONE/SECOND/SUIT, a
programme to boost confidence
in job interviews with free H&M
Man suit rental for 24 hours, so
anyone attending can make a
good first impression.
2
Arket
Arket offers terry cloth
comfort
The pursuit of
# supremecomfort drives
lifestyle brand Arket to drop a
collection of terry towelling,
chiming with consumers' desire
for more relaxed living in tactile
surroundings.
Knot Standard
Knot Standard offers AI-
tailored ts
The American made-to-measure
suit seller has come up with a
new app to facilitate remote
orders of its custom suits, aimed
at people who don't live near a
store. Using two photos
submitted by the shopper, a
digital pattern is created from 41
measurements and observations
of posture.
Brooks Brothers
Brooks
Brothers bene ts from
Father's Day uptick
Although it experienced sales
boosted by the bounceback of
occasions in the US, luxe
sweatshirts and sweatpants,
complete with monogramming,
performed online and in-store
for Brooks Brothers,
traditionally known for tailoring.
Father's Day was a major win for
the retailer.
Anatomie
Anatomie launches
menswear
The $25m women's brand enters
the menswear market with a
nine-piece capsule collection,
aimed at modern lifestyles, with
anti-wrinkle, quick-drying T-
shirts, blazers, shirts and
trousers. It is born of the need
for more inclusive clothing for
big/tall and athletic body
shapes.
Discounting Discounting rates begin to return to 2019 levels
Retailers' adjustments after a dif cult
period see discounts return to pre- UK US Germany
pandemic 2019 levels, while products going
2019 2020 2021
out of stock also lift, re ecting a return to 70
spending within the men's market.

% assortment in markdown
Following a challenging trading period at the
Pull & Bear
outset of the pandemic in early 2020,
discounting rates in late S/S 21 have returned
to pre-pandemic 2019 levels in the UK, even 0 Week
dipping below 2019 levels in the US and 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
Germany (stable UK, -7ppts US, -3ppts
Germany), signalling retailers no longer WGSN e-commerce data. January 1 - June 20, 2021, 2020 and 2019
need to rely on discounting heavily to clear
stock
Current-season discounting rates remain
li ed vs 2019 levels in the UK, but sit below
Kvickly
2019 levels in the US and Germany –
signalling retailers in the US and Germany
are able to protect new-season product
even more from discounting compared to
pre-pandemic S/S 19 (+5ppts UK, -11ppts
US, -2ppts Germany)
Additionally, the share of apparel product
going out of stock at full price sees a li YoY
in late S/S 21, indicating a rebound in
Bershka Ted Baker
consumer demand, a er a challenging S/S 20
(+1.5ppts to 9% UK, +1ppts to 4% US,
+1ppts to 17% Germany)

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Father's Day
Online and in-store, retailers make efforts to
maximise the small-scale celebrations and
family moments that have come to de ne
spending of late, especially for menswear.

Curated selections in-store and on e-

Marks & Spencer
commerce sites offer gi -ready options
Retailers are strategic with their Father's
Day offer, appealing to shoppers via
matching mini-me sets as well as offers
targeted at dads Reiss

Link-selling orientated towards those

shopping for men brings together staples
like lounge and underwear as well as trend-
driven pieces, such as the # resortshirt, to
UGG
cover all bases
More inclusive wording informs marketing to
acknowledge changing attitudes to family
life

Citizens of Humanity Next

4
Wardrobe essentials
Apparel mix shifts towards comfort categories in S/S 21
In line with wider trends for dependable as compared to pre-pandemic S/S 19
well as sustainable options, retailers UK US Germany
emphasise wardrobe building-blocks and
timeless classics. Knit/jersey tops +2.6ppts UK
Shorts +10ppts US
Knit bottoms
+0.6ppts Germany
With a focus on transseasonal features, Underwear &…
Swim (vs S/S 19)
many ranges and offers appeal to those Jeans
Gap
looking to make easy decisions about Outerwear
Woven shirts
longer-term investments, regardless of their
Tailoring
budget. Timeless items, from the hoodie to Trousers
-5 0 5
the # summertrench, form part of the 'better % New-in apparel
basics' narrative
Instagram-style grid layouts are used to sell WGSN e-commerce data. April 1 - June 20, 2021 and 2019
the notion of clothing as component parts,
o en bringing together apparel, footwear,
accessories and lifestyle items
Comfort categories continue to uptick, Arket
ensuring trends for more casual looks
endure; compared to the pre-pandemic late
S/S 19 menswear apparel mix, knit/jersey
tops (+3ppts to 40% UK, +10ppts to 47%
US, +1ppts to 38% Germany), shorts (+2ppts
to 11% UK, +0.6ppts to 8% US, +5ppts to 12%
Germany), and knit bottoms (+2ppts to 4%
UK, +1ppts to 3% US, +1ppts to 3%
Germany) have increased share of the mix
Club Monaco Banana Republic

5
Summer occasionwear
While tailoring is bought in less depth and
associated categories remain in decline,
marketing messages need to be more
sophisticated and nuanced.

Dressing up for occasions as we start to

return to in-person celebrations or to make Alcott

an impression in the workplace will create

interest, but must be met with an offer that
accentuates value and longevity
This sector is still in flux thanks to smart
David's Bridal J.Crew
looks becoming more casual and the rise
of # modernsmartseparates, which are
redefining how younger generations think
about tailoring
Smart categories have the biggest share of Ted Baker
product in markdown in late S/S 21; tailoring
(-3ppts to 60% UK, -15ppts to 45% US, -1ppts
to 39% Germany), trousers (-8ppts to 54%
UK, -19ppts to 48% US, +2ppts to 44%
Germany). But these categories all show a
decline in discounting rates YoY in the UK
and US, a er a challenging S/S 20 at the
outset of the pandemic

Neiman Marcus Primark Neiman Marcus

6
Fantasy resort
Inspiration for high-summer continues to be the lure of exotic holidays and #fantasyresort destinations.
Poolside blues, palm tree and aquatic conversational motifs create playful beach-inspired looks just smart
enough to traverse to a cafe. Tap WGSN's resort-inspired themes for further evidence of this energetic
theme.

Marks & Spencer Levi's Chubbies 8 Seconds Saks Fifth Avenue

London London Los Angeles Seoul Miami

7
Clubhouse
As the enduring #newprep trend evolves,
many more collaborative and sports-
inspired collections ensure collegiate
themes remain key at retail level.

While the DNA of this theme is still made up

of varsity slogan tees and sweats, cut-and- Superdry

sew items and true sportswear-inspired

jackets, it has a modern edge and needs to
be executed in a way that feels inclusive
Consumer demand for activewear remains
Selfridges Covernat
li ed compared to pre-pandemic 2019 levels
across the UK and US, seeing a further
uptick YoY in the US in S/S 21 (stable YoY at
8% UK, +1ppts YoY to 13% US), so this theme
works from a stylistic and practical point of
Urban Out tters
view
The rise of # golf is a trend we're watching
with interest; note the inclusion of
clubhouse themes at retail level and in the
themes WGSN forecast for S/S 23

Nike Covernat J.Crew

8
Joyful expression
Well-documented as a WGSN trend, this theme blossoms at retail level for S/S 21, delivering lively colour
and print themes across youthful and often classic key items. Like vacation season, festival season might
be altered but the associated energy and desire to stand out hasn't dissipated, as events remain online for
many.

Bloomingdale's 2 Lapel Chubbies Bershka Nike

New York Seoul Los Angeles London Shanghai

9
 Sweet pink
A big story on the S/S 22 catwalks,
# sweetpink and other pink shades are seen
across product types in stores globally
Driving sporty looks that cross into
streetwear, pinks are important for cut-and-
sew items
Fun resort-inspired themes mean pink hues
are integral to high summer drops, as solid
plains or part of pattern designs

Uniqlo The Nines by Paige

JD Sports J.Crew Old Navy

10
 Camou age
While pattern continues to be secondary to
plains, camouflage remains important
A safe option for consumers and retailers,
camo is instantly understandable, minimising
risk to markdown
Seen across wovens and cut-and-sew styles,
patterns remain largely authentic and
traditional
WGSN online retail data shows camouflage
Levi's Superdry prints now take 3.3% of the total pattern
mix. Camouflage new-ins are also up in the
London New York
UK by 33.28% YoY, driven by trend-led
retailers, in trousers and knit bottoms

George Timberland Bait

London New York New York

11
 Tie-dye
Tie-dye has been building over seasons and
WGSN has covered its progression. Despite
its big presence at mass market level for S/S
21, the trend still hasn't reached saturation
point
Key for festival-ready cut-and-sew pieces
and matching sets, tie-dye is a way to bring in
bold colour among more restrained options
Indigo and earthy tones make appearances
Lululemon Athletica Levi's
as well as seasonal pastel shades
According to WGSN online retail data, tie-dye
New York London
is up in newness across all markets YoY
from S/S 20 to S/S 21 (+9% US, +28% UK,
+54% Germany YoY)

JD Sports Planet B Abercrombie & Fitch

London Seoul New York

12
Linen
Linen shows growth, contributing to 3% of
all new-in products being brought in by
retailers in the UK and US in early 2021,
driven by luxury and premium retailers, with
the largest mix in woven shirts and suits
The summer favourite also makes a strong
Calliope
showing on the S/S 22 catwalks and is a key
strand of WGSN's S/S 22 Sourcing Guide
Strategies around marketing linen cover the
traditional touch-points of comfort and
cooling properties, but lean into consumers' Tu Clothing at Sainsbury's

desire for more comfortable tailoring. There

is also an opportunity to talk about the
sustainable qualities inherent to linen and
bast fabrics
Uniqlo

Canali Mango H&M

13
 Coveralls
The popularity of this item is driven by the
continued practical appeal of functional
workwear, but also an element of fun, which
comes from streetwear takes on it, leaning
into festival themes
As well as slimmer fashion fits, less
traditional workwear colours are seen,
including the natural, # undyed denims that
are also a key trend
Printed options, while a smaller buy and a
C&A Covernat stronger statement, are ideal for the youth
market and festivals

Reserved Jeff Lee Chubbies

14
Resort shirt
The #resortshirt has not reached saturation point, remaining key globally. Unifying trends include
#animalprint designs, large-scale tropicals and #geometrics, with newness in transseasonal and less
traditional summer shades, such as #gingerbiscuit, an important S/S 22 catwalks hue. As brands rethink
drop culture and carry over stock, pieces with longer lifespans will demand more creative thinking from VM
online and in-store.

Alcott Planet B Foxton Zara General Pants Co.

MIlan Seoul Rio de Janeiro New York Sydney

15
 Polo shirt
Seen on the S/S 22 catwalks, the polo is a
key fashion item as well as a basic, driving
volume
The consistent presence of this style
confirms WGSN's # polopower trend on the
Fashion Feed
The polo is also an important part of
# refinedresort and can replace the woven
shirt in smart, tailored stories
Macy's James Perse Price sensitivity isn't too important, as cut-
and-sew looks are as important as premium-
Miami Los Angeles
feeling and trend-driven true-knit versions

Covernat Urban Out tters Next

Seoul London Miami

16
Striped top
Li ing the T-shirt from a purely basic item,
stripes are a key statement for the season.
They also come through as more directional
vertical settings on the catwalks for S/S 22
Stripes work into many important and
emerging themes, from resort stories to the Next

nautical-inspired # shorething look, ensuring

London
their presence in drops yet to come
Classic styles, such as Breton stripes, are
set to remain key, while vertical versions will
gain traction and filter to retail level Next Superdry

London New York

United Colors of Benetton

Milan

OVS 8 Seconds Arket

Milan Seoul Stockholm

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Hoodie
The hoodie continues to be a global hit as it is a key part of casual, active and even smart stories.
Orange and yellow tones are signi cant. According to WGSN online retail data, topweights continue to
represent the largest share of the men's new-in apparel mix (+2ppts to 55% UK, +3ppts to 57% Germany,
stable at 56% US). This growth is driven by new-season knit/jersey tops (+3ppts to 40% UK, +10ppts to 47%
US, +1ppts to 38% Germany).

Renner Zara Nike Mango Alo Yoga

Rio de Janeiro New York Seoul London New York

18
Trucker
While chore jackets are a newer option, trucker styles remain key as part of matching sets and denim-on-
denim looks, as well as being a useful vehicle for expressive print, dye, wash and panelling techniques.
Watch out for emerging colour trends as denim starts to make a recovery from markdown.

Pull & Bear Primark Bloomingdale's Angel Chen Zara

London London San Francisco Shanghai New York

19
 Unstructured blazer
While new-season tailoring generally
decreases as part of the mix, (-1ppts to 4%
UK, -2ppts to 3% US, -4ppts to 2% Germany)
according to WGSN online retail data,
successful tailoring ranges have responded
to the changes to occasion and careerwear,
bringing in less structured and restrictive
styling that speaks to changed lifestyles
Reflecting the importance of functional
design across menswear, blazers are ripe
for modernist updates, with retailers
Selfridges 8 Seconds
offering styles with revised pockets and
details, or iterations with much less padding
and interlining. Buggy linings replace full
linings
Performance/technology details uptick in
menʼs apparel in S/S 21 (+2ppts to 13% UK,
+5ppts to 13% US)

Uniqlo 8 Seconds Banana Republic

20
Blown-out denim
Distressed nishes continue to be key across shorts and full-leg styles, as featured in the S/S 21 men's
denim Retail Analysis. Heavily washed effects on blue and black colourways feature on ubiquitous skinny
and slim ts. According to WGSN Barometer data, jeans remain one of the most purchased product
categories online, with jeans seeing an uptick in demand YoY (+4ppts YoY to 20% UK, +2ppts to 21% US).
Sustainability remains a focus for brands and retailers.

Target Lucky Brand Uniqlo Zara 2 Lapel

New York Miami London New York Seoul

21
1 2 3
Action points
Embrace bright and optimistic themes for
summer
Regardless of who is able to travel, fantasies of exotic
vacations stimulate designers and shoppers alike.
Tipping neatly into festival dressing at the younger and
more brightly optimistic end of the scale while creating
sophisticated looks that will transcend trends and
seasons at the other, the resort-inspired themes
compounded by recent fashion weeks are set to remain
key
22
Stay on top of the 'better basics' narrative
With many brands on the bandwagon when it comes to
wardrobe-building essentials, quality of design and
development becomes crucial. Offering well sourced
fabrics and thought-out pieces ought to drive the
backbone of any range, regardless of ticket price.
Sustainability will be synonymous with this market
niche so stay abreast of all your suppliers' capabilities
Sell tightly bought tailoring ranges with
custom- tting marketing messages
As different territories deal with the pandemic in
nuanced ways, brands need to cater for events and
lifestyles accordingly. While some consumers will
require smart attire to return to work, others will
expect to shop tailoring whenever they want and for it
to be useful beyond one event. Interest in
personalised and made-to-measure options is set to
grow, appealing to a wider range of body shapes
Methodology
WGSN e-commerce data
Data for this report was collected across 147 UK, US and German retailers
from January 1 to June 20, 2021, 2020 and 2019
Please note, some retailers are excluded to ensure like-for-like calculations and
to avoid inflated product counts due to the acquisition of new retailers on the
WGSN e-commerce platform
Numbers may fluctuate as we recategorise to help clarify ambiguous/new
products or if retailers refactor their website
WGSN Barometer
WGSN Barometer is a retail consumer intelligence and surveys platform. Data
used was collected across men 16-74 UK and US from March 28 - June 20 2021, 2020
and 2019
Definitions
Assortment mix (%): Products in each category divided by overall apparel
products available during the specified period.
New-in: the products that are newly added to the retail website within the
timeframe selected
Markdown (%): products in markdown divided by overall products available
during the specified period in each given department or category
Out-of-stocks (%): the proportion of products that have 50% or more SKUs out of Arket
stock (OOS)
% fp sell-outs: % of products where at least 50% of the SKUs (colour or size) were
not available for purchase on a retailerʼs site but still shown, and kept at original
price, any day during the selected time frame
Percentage point (ppts): a percentage is the proportion of a set of products over a
larger set, an example is new-in trousers over new-in apparel mix. A percentage
point computes the arithmetical difference between percentages; going from 40%
to 44% is a 4 ppts increase
YoY: year-on-year

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