Collection Review: Men’s

Textiles S/S 22
As collections spell out a cautious but hopeful mood,
textile directions temper relaxed tailoring looks and high-
shine satins with practical linens and textured classics

Gayle Johnston
08.04.21 · 4 minutes

Jil Sander
Market analysis

While disrupted lifestyle factors are still defining the desire for comfort, resort
themes provide a breath of fresh air and playful anticipation of happier times
ahead. This is reflected with optimistic # summerstripes, the # colouredsuit and
joyful expression trims and textiles
Lustrous # satin surfaces appear all the way from streetwear to workwear,
as # highshine surfaces reflect a growing desire for dressing up and going out
Interest in natural fibre sourcing encourages bast fibres and casual cottons to
move into smarter product categories for summer. This is mirrored at retail, with
data from our S/S 22 Textiles Sourcing Guide showing that throughout S/S 20, linen
increased its share of the new-in mix in tailoring by +1ppts to 9% in the UK, stable
at 10% in the US

Lanvin

1
Test or invest
Invest in sophisticated #summerstripes and subtle retracted and creased surface textures. Drive low-impact sourcing with natural linens and #undyed cottons. Look to
head-to-toe-colour tailoring, #satin sheen and traditional craft techniques on fabric and trims to in uence more directional ranges.

Test Invest

Acne Studios Pigalle Fendi Uniforme Paris Joeone

01 02 03 04 05
Crafts in uence Satin shine Sartorial colour Natural linen #Summerstripes

2
 #Summerstripes
Easy # summerstripes in sun-lightened tones
play into a laid-back mood and
# refinedresort themes prevalent on the S/S
22 catwalks
Commercial stripes can be utilised as a
single design or in pattern combinations on
cotton poplin bases. Apply the fabrics to
shirts, shorts, # matchingsets and
# modernso separates. Embrace refined
and sophisticated satin stripes for suits and
Andrea Pompilio per Harmont &
separates
MANS Blaine

8IGB Joeone MANS

3
 Surface texture
The importance of fabric texture continues,
with refined, retracted surfaces, micro
textures and creased finishes
Look for matte cottons with dry handles and
irregular retracted pattern, plus crinkled
surfaces via seersucker techniques
Laser cutting, as seen at Dries Van Noten, is
an alternative update to create an elegant,
dimensional surface

Dries Van Noten Wooyoungmi

Dries Van Noten David Catalan Hermès

4
 Sartorial colour
As # smartenedup looks return, relaxed
tailoring in head-to-toe saturated colour
makes a directional statement in seasonal
brights of # digitallavender and # hyperpink
Design the # colouredsuit in versatile and
lightweight flannels, smooth worsted wool
and cotton sateen
As the focus on comfort continues, build this
in classic constructions with natural stretch,
durability and easy care finishes
Of cine Generale Emanuel Ungaro

Canali MANS Jil Sander

5
 Natural linen
Woven linen, hemp and undyed cotton
fabrics play an integral role in high-summer
# desertrider looks, lending a subtle rustic
feel and dry-touch handle
Natural materials, bast fibres and slubbed
yarns are key for tactile casual fabrics, used
for shirting through to casual suiting, called
out in our S/S 22 Resourceful forecast
Diversify your fibre basket by adding
uncommon bast fibres, such as hemp, nettle
Jan-Jan Van Essche Hed Mayner and ramie, alongside linen. # Undyed and
colour grown fibres also work well

Lemaire Fendi Yohji Yamamoto

6
 Satin shine
Lustrous, tactile surfaces with a polished
appearance and hand-feel are applied
across product categories, from streetwear
to workwear-inspired clothing
# Satin and # highshine satin-effect synthetics
appeal to consumers inspired by a sense of
occasion. Techlegant proofs bring a sporty
feel to this direction
Opt for recycled polyester and nylons or
FSC lyocell for sustainable shirting weight
JieDa Dries Van Noten separates

Dior Men Acne Studios Dunhill

7

Children of the Discordance
Crafts in uence
Traditional yarn-dyed cra s such as ikat-
inspired designs, pattern blanket weaving
and # handcra ed stitch techniques have
found their way onto the catwalks
Details such as # fringing and patched
pattern are paired with lively constructed
textiles for a slow-cra ed feel
Design cra ed constructions in natural, low-
impact yarns, such as linen and organic
cotton, or interpret via print for commercial
Bethany Williams iterations

Etro Acne Studios Isabel Marant

8
 Sheer layers
Light and airy textures are key for S/S 22. Opt
for # sheers in wearable layered effects or as
a standalone statement around
# so masculinity
While items like the # sheershirt can be
tested for more directional markets,
commercially viable options include sheer
and opaque combinations or overlaid effects
for a lightweight feel without the
transparency
Dries Van Noten Dunhill Semi-sheer lounge-weights work well for
lightweight summer layers

Fendi Paul Smith Burberry

9
1 2 3
Action points
Pursue low-impact sourcing with 100%
natural bre compositions
Choose organic bast fibres such as hemp and crisp
linens with mélange effects and undyed organic cottons
for diverse product categories, from shirting to casual
suiting. Look into diverse bast fibres such as hemp,
ramie, nettle and jute
10
Update your fabric choices with a
#re nedresort feel
Source into seasonal resort themes with easy
# summerstripes in dusted pastels and clay tones.
Introduce playful surface tactility with subtle retracted
micro-textures and creased surfaces
Create a sense of occasion with #satin and
energised suiting fabrics
Pick # satin and sheen fabrics for their sensual and
luxurious surfaces, but also for their drape and innate
comfort. Choose lightweight flannels, smooth worsted
wool and cotton sateen for suiting and so separates