Collection Review: Key

Items – Men's Knitwear

A/W 21/22
Designers focus on easy, relaxed fits and elevated
essentials while accentuating the sensory properties of
knitwear. Homespun tactile yarns and cocooning
silhouettes offer reassurance during times of uncertainty

Charlotte Casey
02.16.21 · 8 minutes

Uniforme Paris
Market analysis
Comfort trends have been accelerated and remain the key driver for
knitwear, as #stayhomestyle feeds into the development of relaxed and
protective silhouettes in cosy #brushedtextures and plush yarns
With consumers buying less, designers focus on building capsule
wardrobes. Pared-back #collectionessentials that can be layered
together become the building blocks of the wardrobe, whether for work
or leisure. Hybrid dressing means knitwear is used to so en tailored
pieces or work with upgraded athleisure for smart-casual looks
More time spent indoors sees the need for versatile items that can be
layered and worn for different occasions. Designers add a reassuring
element via calming colour and texture. Elevate pieces such as the
throw-on cardigan and the vest
By contrast to the focus on pared-back looks, the statement
knit provides a more upbeat note. Colour and pattern are worked into
the trend for relaxed looks that satisfy the need for novelty and work
for #abovethekeyboarddressing

Ermenegildo Zegna

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Test or invest
Evolve knits into core items or desirable statement pieces. Essentials are optimised for layering and adaptability, such as the polo and vest, while
the easy throw-on cardigan becomes a cosy must-have piece. The crew-neck, already a core item, is upgraded via texture and pattern
to maximise comfort and offer a sense of nostalgic reassurance.

Test Invest

Etro Isabel Marant Hermès Massimo Alba Dior Homme

01 02 03 04 05
Sweater vest Slouchy cardigan Classic polo Cosy roll-neck Relaxed crew

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The relaxed crew
Comfort remains important for the staple crew-neck, worked in oversized silhouettes as
#stayhomestyle continues to drive knitwear. Tactility is accentuated via brushed yarns,
highlighted previously at Pitti Filati. Designers embrace strong pattern, however, traditional
designs are given a contemporary refresh while upgraded core pieces are updated via subtle
detailing.

Junya Watanabe Hermès Dior Homme Christian Wijnants Of cine Generale

Classic outdoor styles are
updated, drawing on
artisanal and handcra ed
traditions. Use graphic
pattern and strong colour
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contrasts for directional Fair
Heritage design is reworked
to give classic
#argyle compositions a new
look in offbeat colour
combinations for fine-gauge
worsted and semi-worsted
yarns.
Cosy yarns and playful pet
motifs leverage the appeal
of comforting homely
designs and
#brushedtexture at Dior
Homme.
Use discreet detailing to
upgrade pared-back styles
such as this elongated crew.
Refined reverse jersey stitch,
cast-off edges and fully
fashioned yoke details keep
the design contemporary.
For classic, hardworking
staples, work in
transseasonal hues given a
so er look. Pale pink is
teamed with tactile corduroy
as brands focus on subtle
Isle and updates to
#newnordic inspiration. #collectionessentials.
The cosy roll-neck
Adaptable enough to be worn in both casual and formal settings, the roll-neck is seen in
abundance this season. Its enveloping warmth is highlighted in chunky mid to heavy-gauge
weights, while its versatility is also brought to the fore. Designers team with smart trousers
to relax formal looks, while gentle #marl, tweedy and mélange yarns are updated in a palette
of warm but fresh tones in cosy lambswool, merino and cashmere yarns.

Fendi Ermenegildo Zegna Massimo Alba Hermès Isabel Marant

Play with versatile rugby
stripes and so en the look
via mélange yarns in classic
grey marl for an adaptable,
luxe style.
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Utilise upgraded comfort
with Donegal tweed yarn in
a gentle colour palette of
nuanced tones. The relaxed
silhouette is enhanced with
a draped neckline and
asymmetric details.
Use tactility and bold colour
to give the roll-neck an
inviting feel in warm,
optimistic hues.
Explore two-tone
#colourblocking and a neat
mock-neck for a youthful
update. Contrast colour and
yarn effects in nepped
tweed and gold feel fresh.
Sporty looks take on a
comfortable feel via a
relaxed style in generous
proportions. Bold stripes
are pared back, updating
sportif ski-inspired
aesthetics.
The slouchy cardigan
The perfect item for evolving the #homehub trend, the #slouchycardigan comes into its
own, injecting colour and pattern into more casual #stayhomestyle looks. As throughout
the knitwear category, cosiness is amped up in lofty yarns, relaxed silhouettes and layering.

Missoni Isabel Marant Paul Smith Solid Homme Federico Cina

Use a shawl collar to
enhance the warm,
protective effect of the
cardigan for outerwear
pieces. Explore uptrending
#graphicmonochrome for a
pattern and yarn update.
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An easy to wear, edge-to-
edge style is upgraded via
button fastenings and large
pockets at Isabel Marant.
Work in a bold colour for a
new feel and team with
stripes to tap into #newprep.
Contrast smart
#futurecommuter looks with
grounded earth tones and
cosy yarns. Work cardigan
sets in so ly brushed RMS
mohair and wool stripes to
create a more homely feel.
Explore the #knittedset and
use napped and plush yarns
alongside dropped
shoulders and cocooning
rounded silhouettes to tap
into the trend for
#supremecomfort.
Complement plush yarns
and slouchy shapes via
organic intarsia pattern and
a chunky ribbed placket,
given added tactility in
reverse jersey stitch.
The classic polo
The sartorial polo top of A/W 20/21 is evolved into an everyday staple as designers recognise
the need for capsule dressing and luxe #collectionessentials. Highlighted in our
Supercharged Simplicity trend, the polo slots easily into this pivot towards better basics,
updated via colour and graphic pattern.

Hermès Solid Homme Fendi Ermenegildo Zegna Isabel Marant

Simplicity is key to the
appeal of the classic polo.
Keep the fit relaxed in
worsted and superfine
merino yarns for a smart yet
casual look.
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A slightly more
#elevatedutility style at Solid
Homme keeps the fit boxy
and pared back.
Matching sets also work for
a premium feel.
A polo gives tailored looks
an approachable feel as
formalwear becomes more
relaxed. #Sunnyyellow adds
a splash of colour for
#newprep stripes.
Work into the
#superemecomfort trend
with an exaggerated,
oversized silhouette and
dropped shoulders. Head-
to-toe colour and trousers
smarten the look up
for # twomilewear.
Bold graphic looks bring the
#rugbytop up to date in
wide stripes and a boxy fit.
Keep the proportions
generous in mid-gauge
yarns, wide trims and
placket.
The sweater vest
An item on the rise, the #knittedvest continues to move away from its traditional image into
a youthful vehicle for colour and pattern as well as a transseasonal layering piece.

MSGM Etro Doublet Hermès Henrik Vibskov

Explore cosy yarns and
decorative #interiorluxe
pattern for a bold
statement. A deep rib and
neat fit look directional and
fresh.
Use #hyperbright colour to
bring a note of optimism
into the mix, as designers
look to #joyfulexpression to
li the spirits.
Micro geometric repeats
work well for #gentleretro
styles in tiled repeats and
two-colour monographs.
See our Sourcing Guide for
inspiration.
A looser, boxier shape is key
to the season across all
categories. Work in textured
stripes to tap into the
#supremecomfort trend.
Tongue-in-cheek graphics
work well, inspired by 1980s
and 1990s styles for a new
twist on the festive sweater.
Take note of
#statementknits this season.

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Key trends
Our top three trends generated from the Fashion Feed. Keep track following the hashtags
below.
Solid Homme
#knittedvest
This item has been given a
youthful revamp and
continues to do well across
the men's and womenswear
category. Worked in an
array of styles, from
minimalist through to
graphic, it proves its
versatility and broad market
potential. Boxier shapes are
key as layering gains
momentum in line with
relaxed #slounge and
#homehub trends.
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Ermenegildo Zegna
#supremecomfort
Knitwear continues to
capitalise on its high levels
of comfort both for
#stayhomestyle and
#abovethekeyboarddressing.
Use the roll neck to so en
formalwear and explore
head-to-toe looks and
matching sets. So marl
yarns and cosy yarn
textures lend a homely and
tactile element upgraded in
contemporary pared-back
designs.
Paul Smith
#slouchycardigan
Designers and consumers
alike embrace the
cardigan as a surge in WFH
has given tops priority over
coats. The cardigan bridges
the gap, tapping into
comfort led trends that
highlight cocooning, throw-
on styles paired with cosy
scarves and worked in
tactile yarns, another key
trend of the season.
Action points
Versatility is key to the season, as knitwear bridges the need for practicality and cosy
warmth. Develop items that span several uses, from relaxed homeworking and easy

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loungewear through to statement looks that tap into a desire for more attention-grabbing
and fun pieces.

Keep silhouettes Optimise the Update heritage Evolve staple tops

oversized for #supremecomfort trend pattern in bold graphics for easy luxe layering 
unstructured #stayhomestylevia stitch and yarn for statement looks
ts

Develop shapes that are roomy but
not overly exaggerated. Loose
shapes are key, with dropped
shoulders and straight plackets
updating cardigans. Plackets are
closer to edge-to-edge styles in
straighter looks. Oversized boxy
fits are seen across the polo and
the vest while crew-necks become
elongated,
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answering the need for
greater ease of movement and
layering
Work lo y airspun constructions
and cosy textured yarns into
appealing winter looks. Mix
different tactile looks together,
such as bouclé, brushed, slubbed
and roving with smoother
constructions for interesting
contrasts. For subtle texture,
explore #marl, mélange and
#saltandpepper twists to create
colour interest. Tweed effects in
tonal looks are updated in
A tale of two halves this season
was also key for the
#statementknit. Core pieces are
updated using graphic pattern
and eye-catching colour, as
#abovethekeyboarddressing
injects novelty and newness into
the mix. Timeless nordic knits are
revamped while the vest is given a
youthful, high-energy colour and
pattern update
As a more cautious mindset grows,
staple pieces are key. Develop the
polo into plain but upgraded looks
for versatile #collectionessentials.
Crews, vests and roll-necks also
get the pared-back treatment in
fresh colour updates and relaxed
fits
contemporary colours –
highlighted in our Men's Colour
report