Buyers' Briefing Newness A/W 19/20

Womenswear
Details
Discover the key detail updates for A/W 19/20,
backed by WGSN Instock data, social media trends
and buying intel

Olivia Rose The Label

 Action Points
As consumers grow ever more sophisticated in their
understanding and adoption of trends, it's important to
steer clear of literal translations of themes such as the
1970s. Details therefore become crucial to drive
newness, with references replayed in a contemporary
context.
1. Replace this year's heavy-handed approach to
partywear glitz with sophisticated vintage-inspired
beading and lace trims.
2. Tap into the wave of nostalgia for Phoebe
Philo's Céline with considered statement details, from
outsized buckles to crisp pleats, or new iterations of
the high-waisted trouser.
3. The move into utilitywear is a trend with impact
beyond S/S 19, extending its reach into A/W 19/20
with elevated utility details, such as oversized belts
and drawstrings.
4. Many retailers have had their fingers burnt by a
costume-like approach to 1970s styling. Keep the
references relevant with a modern take on the retro
collar.
5. Sweetheart necklines and shoulder-puff sleeves
keep up the momentum for femininity, with options
across tops and dresses.

@thearrivalsnyc
 Sharp Pleats
The pleated skirt returns as a reliable sell at an accessible
price point. The newness for this shape lies in the update
to the pleats, which are sharp side-pleats with sewn-down
detailing at the waistband. These crisp pleats can also be
used to update the high-waist trouser or easy dress
shapes. Introduce in lightweights for transitional, moving
into structured wovens in autumn. For e-comm, consider
the impact of transit on pleats and opt for permanent
presses to minimise returns.
Km by Lange

@mansurgavriel

Pleats ▲
UK +9%
US +11% YoY
Gucci Harper's Bazaar UK Fashion Week Streets
 Retro Collar
Retro elongated collars offer a key update to core items such
as the shirt dress, shirt and zip-neck top, moving pieces from
sports into fashion-led casuals. A note of caution here:
although 1970s references are strong, avoid literal
translations of the era, opting instead to mix up the styling
and keep the look more contemporary. Drop in early autumn
for lightweight knits and jackets.

Rochas

Rūh @elleryland

Key items: zip-neck knit top, utility shirt dress,

patterned shirt
Key drops: drop early in new-season colour and
print options and carry through to winter
Selling points: use as a simple way to inject
newness into core categories, including cut-and-sew
and lightweight knits

Marie Claire UK Marni DNA magazine

 Sweetheart &
Square Necklines
S/S 19's historic and prairie influences are carried into
autumn with square-cut and sweetheart necklines. Test in
lower volumes for early-season drops and then reintroduce
for partywear in cloqué and shiny handles. Use these
necklines to update your blouse offer, pairing with full
sleeves and, for more fashion-forward customers, a shoulder
volume puff. Layer dresses and blouses over a poloneck for
a weatherproof styling option which covers autumn through
to the winter transition.
Nanushka

@ceciliebahnsen Issue

Evidence
Influential brands: Staud, Orseund Iris, Attico, Ganni,
Nanushka and Reformation. Many of these brands
keep this vintage-inspired silhouette as a consistent
staple of their offer, proving its value as an ongoing
performer
Catwalk data: sweetheart necklines increased 22%
from S/S 18 to S/S 19

404 Love Want Staud

 Utility Details
The rise of utility and cargo detailing will be a welcome
source of newness for anyone looking to update their core
casual offer, but these details can also be used for premium
and formal pieces. Add waist focus to jackets and coats
with trailing cinch belts, essential to nailing the trend.
Buttoned tabs, D-rings, snap clasps, buckled straps and
oversized or envelope pockets are key here. Consider
unexpected placements, such as trouser cuffs or centre-back
pockets.
Leo

WSJ Fendi

Evidence
WGSN's The Feed: the emergence of #technicaltrims
Catwalk data: utility details increased YoY across the
catwalks, notably utility pockets for dresses +52%,
hardware details for trousers +27%, jackets +4% and
coats +7%
A/W 19/20 Category Update: Tapered Utility

@sidneigum Mijeong Park @sidneigum

 Drawstring
Drawstrings go hand in hand with utility details, but are
here given a separate focus to take into consideration the
inclusion of softer draw-ties and ruching. Look to Trois
and Orseund Iris for the cult pieces influencing the
market.
These softer, form-flattering ties will have a higher
success rate than the straight-up utility drawcords, but
will open up a path for the latter. The importance of
Fendi versatility is a key driver for the season, so use drawcords
to create pieces with adjustable hemlines and
silhouettes.

@thebemagugu

Drawstrings at
luxury retail ▲
UK +23%
US +50% YoY
Trois The Label New York @thearrivalsnyc
 Vintage
Embellishments
The overloaded sequins seen across A/W 18/19 give way
to a more subtle, refined look, where decorative beading
and sequins are key for vintage references. Use these
embellishments for sheers and fluffy yarn knits, but steer
clear of satin and silky handles which will snag easily
and drive up return rates. For sustainable options, look at
using sequin or bead rejects, promoting individualism as
part of the crafted appeal. Drop knits in line with your
Vogue Spain
@gildaambrosio festive jumper deliveries, moving onto sheer blouses and
dresses for party.

Evidence Free People

The considered craftsmanship of

Polish brand Magda Butrym is a key
influence

Catwalk data: sequins rose 49% YoY

within the knitwear sweater mix
across the S/S 19 catwalk shows

Vintage Revival embellishment was

key at Lineapelle A/W 19/20

Shaoxing Roya Textile Co.

Ltd. Magda Butrym @vanilleverloes
 Puff Sleeves
Volume sleeves show no sign of backing down, having
worked their way through every iteration, from flared bells
to ruffles. The sleeve to watch for A/W 19/20 is the puff,
with emphasis on the shoulder.
As the consumer has already warmed up to volume
sleeves, there is a lower risk, so apply this detail across
the breadth of your buy, as part of the mood for feminine
vintage references. Apply to items such as fluffy yarn
@batshevadress knits, silky handle evening dresses, coats or
contemporary shirting.
The newest looks have a leg-of-mutton construction,
slimmer through the lower arm.

Myself Magazine

Puff sleeves at
luxury retail ▲
UK +27%
US +155% YoY
Red Milk @pernilleteisbaek Olivia Rose The Label
 Oversized
Details
Larger-than-life details help drive a new minimalism,
lending a design edge and desirability to classic pieces.
Cuffs, tabs and belts take on attention-grabbing
proportions, with particular relevancy to the
contemporary market. Buckles uptrend, with references
extending from baroque to cleaner statement buckles as
part of a nostalgia for Phoebe Philo's Céline. For online
retail, WGSN Instock shows buckles within A/W new-in
apparel growing +78% YoY in the UK and 40% in the US.
@danrobertsstudio
Particularly of note are the less obvious categories, such
as dresses and tops. For further inspiration, check out the
#statementbelt on WGSN's The Feed.

@darjabarannik

Buckles ▲
UK +78%
US +40% YoY
Leo @mscanga Céline
 Feature
High-Waist
Trousers continue as a key element of tailored looks, with
voluminous styles driving newness. These new takes update
the high waist, as the consumer looks for an alternative to
the paperbag. Deep waistbands, double-buckle belts, broad
belt loops and concealed tab closures bring an elevated
utility feel to waistbands.
Use single, double or even triple pleat fronts to create
volume, with deeper pleats ideal for fashion-forward looks.
Combine with creased fronts. @lemaire__

Giorgia Tordini Flanelle Magazine

Evidence

Catwalk data: high-waisted trousers

increased 15% YoY on the S/S 19 catwalks,
with flat fronts falling 3% in favour of pleated
fronts +10%

Category Update: Tapered Trouser

Appreciation for this detail lives on through

the #oldceline Instagram hashtag

Elle Singapore @pernilleteisbaek Frankie Shop

 Buttoned Rows
An update on S/S 19's micro-buttoning is this buttoned row
detail, seen across necklines, sleeves and hemlines.
Asymmetric plackets have a 1980s feel, with extended
placket widths updating the ruffle. Draw attention to high
necklines and waistlines, but look for softness, as this
shouldn't be about rigid and restrictive silhouettes. Use this
detail to add newness to your knitwear and blouse offer, or as
@danskmagazine a refresh to day dresses.

WSJ

Key item: roll-neck sweater, wrap skirt,

high-neck blouse or dress

Key drops: start trickling this into blouses

and dresses, building up to your big
knitwear push in autumn

Selling points: use new placements to

build on the success of the bestselling
button-through dress

Nanushka Pyer Moss

 Notch Split
Update form-fitting dresses and skirts with small thigh-
revealing notches. These small splits are more wearable
than higher splits. Use an underlayer to reveal contrast
colours or consider notch-split details on a tunic layer for
modest dressing. Late-1990s-influenced dresses echo
qipao silhouettes, with stand collars. Also use on simple
minidresses in satin handles or velvet. Fastenings take
this detail to a more extreme level, with clasps and
Miu Miu buckles a key detail to watch.

Key item: 2000s minidresses,

@laurenegg
high-waisted miniskirts

Key drops: this item is pure

partywear. Trial within your core
partywear offer, increasing in the
lead-up to partywear

Selling points: a quick and easy

update for basic shapes, with
wearability for young fast-fashion.
Alternatively, broaden its appeal
through tunic layers

Reformation Fannie Schiavoni Leo

 Peek-a-Boo
Layer
A new approach to layering offers a wealth of updates across
categories, achieved through true or mock layering. Double
cuffs look new for trousers or are an easy translation for
casual shirting. Use detachable skirt layers in lightweight
fluid handles over dresses or leggings.
Consider the mix of colour, fabric and pattern, from bright
peek-a-boo flashes of unexpected colour to tonal check-on-
Paris
check combinations and mix-and-match patterning.

@blaireadiebee

Key item: pleated skirt, tailored trouser,

wrap skirt, layered casual shirt or woven
blouse

Key drops: from early season onwards,

adjusting in line with the product category
peaks

Selling points: exploit the link-selling

opportunities by layering multiple pieces.
Shoot close-ups to communicate via
social channels @pernilleteisbaek Paris
 Lace Trims
Lace trims are key for the season's vintage glamour, due
especially to the building interest in 1920s references.
Newness comes via the unexpected combination of lace
with prints, as well as the depth of the lace element, which
sits somewhere between a trim and a panel. Chevrons and
undulating hemlines also add a modern twist.
Fine lace offers a premium look, but opt for sturdy
constructions for mass market in order to minimise damage
and returns. Jonathan Simkhai

@_jeanettemadsen_ @sashaelina

Key item: midi-dress, pencil skirt, 1920s slip

dress

Key drops: trial early in the season as an

update to late-summer day dresses, bringing
back in deeper volumes for true partywear at
season-close

Selling points: this detail is an easy sell, so be

brave and opt for more directional
combinations and placements
@nodress_online_shop Rowen Rose @devonleecarlson
 Methodology
WGSN Instock data
• Based on women's products across 122 retailers
UK and US retailers from August 1 2018 to October
13 2018. Historical data was collected from August
1 2017 to October 13 2017
• Please note, some retailers are excluded to ensure
like-for-like calculations and to avoid inflated
product counts due to the acquisition of new
retailers on the Instock platform
• Numbers may fluctuate as we recategorise to
help clarify ambiguous/new products or if retailers
refactor their website
Definitions
• New-in: new products available online during the
specified period by retailer, category or sub-category
• Market segmentation: retailers are segmented by
their reaction to trend. Trend-led retailers are those
that are first to respond. Contemporary retailers
work alongside trend to create their own look. Value
retailers include supermarket and other value
brands. Mass market are those that don't lead the
trends but follow them. The luxury market
represents high-end retailers
WGSN Catwalks data
• WGSN is supplied with images covering all of the
major catwalk shows and pre-season collections.
Each look is classified with its individual garments,
allowing us to get accurate counts for each product
classification. This ensures the tags apply at a
garment level, not to the whole look
• The garments are then given further keywords for
style, silhouette, neckline, length, print and pattern,
detail, embellishment and fabric. This process is
completed by our panel of fashion-trained image
taggers. Each image is quality checked for accuracy
by an in-house team
This report uses data based on S/S 19 and S/S 18
collections across London, Milan, New York and
Paris

Marni

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