Future Trends A/W 19/20

Ideas
Big
Denim
C a lv in K lein
 Big Ideas A/W 19/20
Leverage Vintage
Tod a y, v inta g e fa shion is mor e p op ula r tha n ev er , driven by a
growing appetite for products that signal individuality, a s w ell
a s cost-consciousness, a nd the stor ytelling v a lue of v inta g e.

S a les of hig h-end v inta g e a ttir e a r e soa r ing . Accor d ing to

Thr ed Up , the fashion resale market has grown 82% ov er the
la st thr ee yea r s, r ea ching $ 14 b n, a nd is exp ected to r ea ch
$ 2 5b n in sa les in the next d eca d e.

Consid er the success of R ed one, w hich up d a tes the silhouettes

of old L ev i' s, or R efor ma tion' s d ea d -stock d enim fa b r ic, used
for its jea ns. L ev i' s is a lso ta king ow ner ship of its ow n a fter -
ma r ket a nd a ims to a chiev e a continuous sup p ly of a uthor ised
v inta g e d enim tha t w ill r esha p e the ma r ket.

Other ind ica tor s tha t sig na l a new emb r a ce of v inta g e includ e
MiH' s sell-out ca p sule collection, Golb or ne R oa d b y B a y
Ga r nett, b a sed on items Ga r nett sour ced in the 19 9 0s, a s w ell
a s brands finding value in their archives, such a s the A/W 17

Polo Ralph Lauren

r eissue of R a lp h L a ur en' s cov eted 19 9 2 S ta d ium collection,
w hich enjoys g r a il sta tus in the r esell ma r ket.
 Big Ideas A/W 19/20
Inspire Curiosity
Customer exp er ience w ill b e mor e tha n just a b uzzw or d in A/W
19 /2 0; it w ill a lso b e a key w a y to d iffer entia te your b r a nd .

Exp er ience-hung r y consumer s enticed b y ' Insta -r ea d y' sp a ces

w ill b e key in d r iv ing this tr end . Accor d ing to a stud y fr om the
Ha r r is Gr oup , 72% of 18- to 35-year-olds are willing to spend
more on hands-on events than physical items.

Vir g il Ab loh' s p ioneer ing r eta il exp er iences, such a s his Nike x
Off-White " OF F -CAMPUS " p r oject, a nd Em Pty Ga ller y, w hich
sa w a stor e tr a nsfor med into a for est, a r e a g r ea t r efer ence

Ksenia Schnaider
for how to ma ke a n imp a ct in a n er a of sha r ea b le content,
using intriguing product, storytelling and a sense of
discovery.

Pr ov oca tiv e d esig ns fr om b r a nd s such a s B en Ta v er niti' s

Unr a v el Pr oject a nd K senia S chna id er a r e a lso sp a r king
cur iosity, w ith convertible and adaptable products or garments
“Customer experience is ... the future of how physical
created from novelty fabrics.
retailers will generate revenue. Experiences won’t just sell
products. Experiences will be the products.”
— Doug Stephens, Business of Fashion
 Big Ideas A/W 19/20
Embrace Darkness
Da r ker themes ma nifest d ur ing times of uncer ta inty, a nd in A/W
19 /2 0 b r a nd s w ill ta p into the a llur e of the unknow n.

The aesthetics of horror will move beyond the fringe to the

mainstream. This ca n a lr ea d y b e seen in films, music a nd
fa shion. R a f S imons a t Ca lv in K lein p la ys into a n a b str a ction of
hor r or s a nd d r ea ms, d istor ting fa milia r Amer ica n cod es w ith a
hor r ific ed g e. Other ind ica tor s includ e the musica l comeb a ck
of Ma r ilyn Ma nson, a nd L il Uzi Ver t, w ho step s a w a y fr om the
ster eotyp e of w ha t a r a p p er should d r ess like b y a d d ing r ock
flour ishes to his a lr ea d y d iv er se p er sona s a nd musica l styles.

Calvin Klein
Da r kness is a lso inter p r eted thr oug h a new v isua l na r r a tiv e tha t
tests our limits of taste and subverts ideas of what’s deemed
acceptable. Diesel' s Go With the F la w ca mp a ig n cha lleng es
id ea s of p er fection, for exa mp le, b y emb r a cing mod els w ith
unib r ow s, b r a ces a nd sca r s. This new d ir ection focuses on
v isua ls tha t a r e b oth ja r r ing a nd cha lleng ing . “It’s about American horror and American beauty. Fashion
tries to hide the horror and embrace only beauty. But they
are both a part of life.”
— Raf Simons, Calvin Klein
 Big Ideas A/W 19/20
Collaborate
Creatively
F a shion colla b or a tions tod a y a r e a s p ow er ful a s ev er , offer ing
compelling storytelling, fresh spins on classic items, as well
as an element of surprise and consumer buzz tha t comes fr om
the ur g ency of limited p r od uct d r op s.

The b est colla b or a tions, how ev er , g o b eyond mer e co-b r a nd ing

a nd celeb r ity a lig nments to explore alternative verticals
outside of fashion, such as art and technology. This a p p r oa ch
ha s b een a key comp onent in Acne' s success, w hich mov es
fluently b etw een d iv er se p r ojects. Its la test is w ith Ca lifor nia
a r tist Alex K nost, for its d enim line, Acne S tud ios B lå K onst.

F or The Woolma r k Comp a ny, its a nnua l Woolma r k Pr ize is a

cr itica l mov e for secur ing innov a tion. The 2 017 w inner of the
B r itish fina l, S a ma ntha McCoa ch of L e K ilt, is a testa ment to
this w ith her exp er imenta l mer ino w ool d enim.

Also consid er on-d ema nd ma nufa ctur ing or mass

customisation. Unma d e, a colla b or a tion b etw een tw o
eng ineer s a nd a knitw ea r d esig ner , is a t the for efr ont of the
r ev olution, na r r ow ing the g a p b etw een d esig ner a nd customer .
 Big Ideas A/W 19/20
Lighten Up
A sense of humour w ill b e incr ea sing ly imp or ta nt for b r a nd s in
A/W 19 /2 0. In a fea tur e for the B usiness of F a shion, w r iter
Eug ene R a b kin noted the r ise of the fa shion hip ster – "a new
consumer class that in its self-image and purchasing habits is
not driven by the notion of luxury, but by characteristics
normally associated with hipsterism – irony, camp and insider
humour."

The tw o d esig ner s tha t a r e ca p ita lising on this new sentiment

most a r e Vir g il Ab loh of Off-White a nd Demna Gv a sa lia of
Vetements a nd B a lencia g a . B oth na mes a r e finely a ttuned to
the ethos a nd cultur e of tod a y, w ith a w r y, ir onic tone a nd p op
cultur e r efer ences litter ed thr oug hout their d esig ns. These a r e
d esig ns tha t sig na l b elong ing to a well-informed in-club, with
an element of camp humour – it’s so bad that it’s good.

Ja p a nese la b el Thib a ut ha s a lso b een finding value in humour.

F or S /S 18, it sent ' thong jea ns' d ow n the ca tw a lk a nd q uickly
ma d e hea d lines. Gucci' s v ir a l A/W 17 ca mp a ig n, shot b y Glen
L uchfor d , ta kes insp ir a tion fr om v inta g e sci-fi mov ies, a nd
d emonstr a tes the p ow er of Alessa nd r o Michele' s thea tr ics.
 Big Ideas A/W 19/20
Action Points
O1 Ta ke a d v a nta g e of ma r ket for ces tha t a r e tur ning old into
new b y exp lor ing a r chiv e r eissues, cur a ted ed its of v inta g e
items, a nd find ing v a lue in your ow n a fter -ma r ket.

O2 As the p r olifer a tion of colla b or a tions g r ow s, it' s time to

p a use, r ew ind a nd r efocus. The new for mula for success w ill b e
a genuine connection between collaborator and brand, and a

Gucci

Calvin Klein
desire for both partners to mutually learn, cr ea te, a nd b r ing a
new p er sp ectiv e to d esig n.

O3 Don' t ta ke your self too ser iously. Consumer s a r e

d ema nd ing a uthenticity fr om b r a nd s a nd a sense of humour
will be an increasingly valuable part of your brand's
personality. This is p a r ticula r ly tr ue a t tumultuous times, w hen
a sense of fun can offer a much-needed escape.

O4 As consumer d ema nd g r ow s for or ig ina lity a nd a uthentic

exp er iences, ma ke sur e you' r e sp a r king cur iosity b y ensur ing
your products and in-store experiences are imbued with a

Polo Ralph Lauren

sense of discovery and provocative details.
 ReFLEXions of the Future A/W 19/20

ReFLEXi o n s o n peo pl e — Wi th a more

i nc l us i ve pas t, pre s e nt and future ,
pe rs onal i de nti ti e s wi l l be fre e d and al l
FREE STYLE — REFLEXIONS ON PEOPLE

PURPOSE FULL — REFLEXIONS ON PRODUCTION

LIGHT MAGIC — REFLEXIONS ON NATURE

s tyl e s wi l l be c e l e brate d, wi th fl e xi bl e
mi nds and a s e ns e of i magi nati on.

ReFLEXi o n s o n pro d u ct i o n —
Sus tai nabi l i ty wi l l re ac h the ne xt l e ve l as
brands be gi n to i nte grate i nte gri ty i nto
e ve ry are a of bus i ne s s . We wi l l move
from l i vi ng bi gge r to l i vi ng be tte r.

ReFLEXi o n s o n n at u re — In an e ra
dri ve n by rati onal i ty, we wi l l s e e growi ng
i nte re s t i n the mys ti c al and the
e moti onal . O ur vi e ws of nature ,
i nc l udi ng human nature , wi l l radi c al l y
s hi ft.

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