Buyers' Briefing Newness: S/S 20

Womenswear
Colour
Discover the key colours for S/S 20, backed by WGSN
Instock data, social media trends and buying intel

@isaacwest
 Action Points
Colour currently follows two clear directions: one leaning
towards nature-inspired, organic hues that sit well with
natural dyes and the growing importance of
sustainability; the other, going the opposite way and
tapping into artificial, screen-generated shades. Pastels
make a return in line with these two distinctive paths,
with both barely there and digital looks emerging. Vibrant
statement shades are still important and the shift of
neutrals from core to fashion shades carries on, with
minimalist beige-on-beige, greyed-off tones replaced by
summery baked levels.

1. Bet on pastels: after seasons on the back burner,

pastels return in two different levels.
2. Look out for the new brights: Neo Mint and
Cantaloupe replace press favourites Millennial Pink
and Gen-Z Yellow.
3. Add warmth to neutrals: infuse beige, brown and co
with baked, summery tones.
4. Test digital and futuristic looks: iridescent finishes
and synthetic brights will resonate with the younger
and more fashion-led consumer.
5. Opt for nature-inspired hues for commerciality:
green and khaki tones lead.

Vogue Germany
 Natural Pastels
Soft natural dyes and barely there colours work nicely within
the emerging shift to minimalism. These are considered,
sophisticated hues, yet remain commercial drivers, lending
key updates to core items including jersey tees, denim, utility
chinos and spring knitwear. Look to soft shades of blue to
update linen and denim offerings, appearing as if they were
accidentally dyed in the wash. Pairings work well tonally top-
to-toe, or feel more youth-oriented paired against black.
Utility greens work with beige, as soft utility styling begins
Ioannes
trending once again.

@styleandthebeach @therosemilk

Key items: utility wovens, sundresses, denim,

linen tops, spring sweaters

WGSN Instock data: pastels are thriving

in the trend-led portion of the market this
season, with S/S 19 new-ins increasing +22%
UK, +32% US YoY

Selling points: works within emerging

minimalist stories and soft utility themes; a
fresh take on pastels for spring drops
The Cool Hour Sicky @innikachoo
 Cantaloupes &
Peaches
Offering a move-on from popular pink tones, these soft
sherbet shades lean more towards the orange family, feeling
fresh for 2020 after a few years' absence at retail. Perfectly
suited to summer dresses and occasionwear, this tone also
lends well to smarter options such as suiting. Explore new
fabrics to drive this colour in a more directional path, with
high-gloss lacquered finishes looking especially new on
outerwear. Other sunset hues and warm browns are
the perfect counter to this bold shade, bringing it down to
Collective Swallow
earth for print and pattern applications.

Nynne L'Officiel Baltics

Key item/application: sundresses, occasion

gowns, suiting, abstract prints

Key drops: spring through to high summer

Selling points: updates Millennial Pink hues;

pairs well with other key seasonal hues of
warm brown and mellow yellow

@madisinrian Milan Paris

 Neo Mint
One of WGSN's core colour callouts of the season, Neo
Mint will be your fashion shade, in much the same way that
Millennial Pink and Gen-Z Yellow took over as the press
colours of seasons past. Spring drops will look fresh in this
upbeat shade, whether paired with neutrals for a minimalist
approach or worn with other utility greens for a soft take on
military hues. Directional styling pairs Neo Mint with neon
shades of green, which could easily translate into something
more commercial such as neon trims. While heavier cottons
@lisasaysgah
and linen qualities feel natural, look to fun sheers for an
unexpected twist.
@georgekeburia Copenhagen

Key items: utility separates, linen sundresses,

lightweight knits

WGSN Instock data: mint apparel is up 48%

(UK) YoY across S/S 19 new-season online
deliveries

Selling points: tout as this as your new buzz

hue of the season; refreshes utility styling and
neutral hues

JW Anderson Joseph @theflamel

 Flushed
Neutrals
The overwhelming popularity of beige carries on, but moves
towards baked and summery shades. These are distinct
from the greyed-off, minimalist beige options seen so far.
Overall, these tones are more saturated and warmer, often
with a pinkish or bronzed cast. Expect to see them layered
together in like-shades or paired with warm browns. Again,
these tones work well with other seasonal trend stories, from
soft utility to minimalism and tonal dressing. Try pops of
neon to lend a more youthful twist.
More or Less

Fashion Week Streets Rochas

Key items: lightweight outerwear, spring

sweaters, utility wovens, silky skirts

WGSN Instock data: neutrals are up +7% UK

and +5% US YoY across S/S 19 new-ins,
particularly within shorts (+48% UK YoY) and
skirts (+35% UK YoY)

Selling points: warms up the popular beige

story of 2019; works within utility themes;
appropriate across age ranges
Elle Australia Unconditional Harper's Bazaar España
 Fashion Blues
Bold, electric blues feel almost neon in nature for S/S 20. All-
over colour applications look fresh on contemporary dresses
and summer kaftans, offering a bright accent to balance the
abundance of beige and brown tones in the market
overall. Use in transitional seasons in tandem with neutrals
to update the tried and true perennial palate-cleanser of
graphic black and white paired with brights. Duller shades of
cobalt feel more considered, or try pairing true cobalt shades
with muted tones for a fresh take on tonal styling.
Porter

Blanc Magazine @greceghanem

Key items: modest dress, kaftan

Key drops: transitional spring or high

summer, incorporated into prints

Selling points: offers a more approachable,

commercial colour to introduce experimental
fashion silhouettes

@lilmiquela Nataal Stella McCartney

 Summer
Browns
Brown has been a key colour for the past few seasons,
winning out over greys as the key neutral. S/S 20 will
move these hues into seasonally appropriate renditions,
working equally well on a diverse range of trends, from
swimwear to silky dresses and knits. On-trend organic prints
will be a natural driver for warm browns as well. Browns are
the fastest growing colour of spring 2019, with new-in
apparel almost doubling YoY (+84% UK, jumping from 1-3%
mix.) Brown apparel has grown consistently across all
Beyond Magazine
categories, particularly shirts, skirts and dresses.

The Sunday Telegraph Ellery

Key items: core knitwear and tailored

wovens; unexpected on swimwear and
occasion dressing

Key drops: transitional spring through to

transitional autumn deliveries

Selling points: works within minimalism

trends and updated utility palettes

REVS magazine @___selfi/ Design Scene

 Synthetic
Rainbow
Bright shades will carry on from S/S 19's infatuation with
neons, but will do so in smaller volumes this year. Hot pink,
pea green, acid lime, hazard yellow and bold orange are all
seen. For the contemporary market, employ these hues in
more modest shapes and luxe materials, in a fresh
statement look that veers away from juniors connotations.
Beige tones will continue to offer a key base to pair brights
with, but definitely explore more updated shades of warm
neutrals this season. For the youth market, stick to festival
Maryam Nassir Zadeh
capsules that can incorporate neons into key Y2K styling.

S Moda Bottega Veneta

Key items: luxe tops, dresses and outerwear for

contemporary, knits and statement pieces for
juniors
WGSN Instock data: emerging for S/S 19, neon new-
in apparel grows fourfold (UK) YoY, driven by fast
fashion retailers
Selling points: use as highlights for contemporary
collections or for Y2K festival capsules

Jacquemus @brownsfashion @matthewadamsdolan

 Digital Pastels
Digital hues offer the season's other pastel story, vastly
differing from natural pastel tones. They will rely on a
synthetic, manmade quality, often incorporating ombrés or
iridescent finishes where colours can bleed into one another.
Apply them to more formal, tailored items, as well as
eveningwear and statement outerwear. Digital pastels will
not be as commercial as the 'natural' pastels palette but will
speak to the fashion forward, directional consumer. Top-to-
toe pastels are the main styling direction, keeping the look
@elleryland
firmly in statement territory.

Zoo Magazine Nina Ricci

Key items: statement suit, outerwear,

bodycon dress, swimwear

Key drops: spring and festival capsules

Selling points: pepper in these high-octane

pastels to offset seasonal neutrals and natural
pastel tones

Vogue Nederland Cynthia Rowley @petarpetrovofficial

 Tonal Khaki
The popularity of utility looks carries on, working across
market segments from juniors' cargo styles, to softer utility
dressing for the contemporary and classic markets. Khaki
shades come into their own, acting as a core colour and a
fashion hue, much in the same way beige has evolved. Tonal
styling in differing shades works across military greens and
tan khakis, styled together in a top-to-toe look, or blocked
together on a single garment. As with any tonal look, try
pairing contrasting materials for heightened interest,
Isabel Marant
especially subtle shine with crisp cotton.

S Moda Coralie Marabelle

Key items: trench, utility shirt, cargo pant

Key drops: spring

WGSN Instock data: khaki hues are up +47%

UK and +25% US YoY for Spring 2019 new-
ins, showing fastest growth at trend-led retail

London Vogue Japan Milan

 Mellow Yellow
After a few seasons of buzzy Gen-Z Yellow, the shade now
mellows a little, adopting deeper hues for S/S 20 drops. A mix
of warm orange and yellow tones feels fresh, while also
playing into the strength of browns and warm neutrals this
season. Yellows can be used throughout S/S as bold pops of
colour to usher in spring drops, or during high-summer
deliveries with other warm tones. While they remain a key
London colour to watch for fashion ranges, handle yellow tones with
care, as high markdowns were noted last season. Small,
considered volumes will bode well for the fashion hue going
forward.

@isaacwest

Key items: WGSN Instock data for spring

2019 shows yellow growing specifically
across dresses, skirts and jumpsuits

Key drops: transseasonal

WGSN Instock data: yellow apparel

increases 159% UK, 22% US YoY across
S/S 19 new-season deliveries, specifically
at mid-market retail

Nynne Le Monde Magazine

 Iridescent
Iridescence re-emerges in line with a penchant for more
futuristic looks in S/S 20. Similar to neon trends, metallic
finishes will look newest on contemporary and unexpected
items such as the demure prairie dress or the fluid skirt, but
will also factor into fantastical festival looks for the youth
market. Subtle pearlescent finishes will offer a more
commercial effect, creating perfect updates for silky blouses,
which have been uptrending lately. Lustrous finishes on
neutral tones give a glam makeover to beige and khaki
@batshevadress
tones, perfect for creating contrast in tonal styling stories.

@loeil_official @martina_giammaria

Key items: silky blouses, festival skirts,

statement dresses and outerwear

Key drops: spring and festival

Selling points: use as accent pieces for

contemporary collections, or tap into fantasy
festival themes for the youth market

Sies Marjan Daily Paper Nynne

 Bold Red
Bold red tones have become a perennial favourite among
consumers, but for S/S 20 the emphasis shifts from sporty
apparel applications to more sophisticated contemporary
pieces. This development mirrors the move away from
streetwear into more dressed-up trends. WGSN Instock data
shows red apparel performing strongly across shorts, skirts,
knits and outerwear for spring 2019, offering indications of
key items within this hue. Dimensional details such as pleats
and pintucked wovens add dimension to the colour, often in
AWAKE
fluid fabrics with subtle shine.

Nasty Magazine Also

Key items: according to WGSN Instock data, new-in

red apparel grows across multiple key categories in
S/S 19, with shorts up +28% UK, skirts +7%
UK, outerwear +25% US, and knitwear +13% US
(YoY)
Key drops: transitional spring
Selling points: take this formerly sporty hue into a
more contemporary direction for S/S 20

Marine Serre Rodarte Kwaidan Editions

 Green Juice
Green apparel has shown firm growth across all
categories in spring 2019, particularly shorts, skirts and
blouses, according to WGSN Instock data. A strong
showing at luxury retail for A/W 18/19 also indicates
green is bubbling under, ready to emerge as a key
direction for S/S 20. Vibrant, saturated hues range from
grass greens to emerald tones, working equally well as
solids or within murky prints. Organic bio-dyes will lend
well to green tones, riffing on 'ugly' themes such as
Galvan
mould and algae to form an unusually pretty palette.
High-shine elements take this hue into occasionwear
territory, although this will be a more directional look.

i-D

▲S/S 19 green
apparel: +24%
UK YoY

Lacoste Victoria Beckham Beyond Magazine

 Methodology
WGSN Instock data
• Based on women's products across 154 UK and US
retailers from January 1 2019 to March 28th 2019.
Historical data was collected from January 1 2018 to
March 28th 2018.
• Please note, some retailers are excluded to ensure like-
for-like calculations and to avoid inflated product counts
due to the acquisition of new retailers on the Instock
platform
• Numbers may fluctuate as we recategorise to help
clarify ambiguous/new products or if retailers refactor
their website
Definitions
• New in: new products available online during the
specified period by retailer, category or sub-category
• Market segmentation: retailers are segmented by their
reaction to trend. Trend-led retailers are those that are
first to respond. Contemporary retailers work alongside
trend to create their own look. Value retailers include
supermarket and other value brands. Mass market are
those that don't lead the trends but follow them. The
luxury market represents high-end retailers

YanYan

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