You are on page 1of 18

Womenswear Forecast S/S

24: SenseScapes
The natural and the technological, as well as the virtual and
the physical, collide in this story, resulting in womenswear
designs that marry organic influences with a heightened
digital look

Sara Maggioni
08.18.22 - 14 minutes

Chiron Duong
Introduction
SenseScapes morphs from our A/W 23/24 forecast trend, NatureVerse, and
continues our exploration of how natural and artificial influences are being
combined to create bold and surprising design solutions.

Nature is the world’s first technology, and at a time when physical and virtual realms are
becoming more interchangeable, and people are less concerned about the difference,
SenseScapes shines a light on the striking designs, immersive worlds and visionary
solutions that are emerging as a result.
In this fantastical direction, nature is hyped up, intensified and digitally recreated, or
simply magnified and marvelled for its own inherent beauty and strangeness. Shape-
shifting forms, colour-changing surfaces, imaginary dreamscapes and natural materials
and textures (or biomimetic versions of them) will provide otherworldly inspiration for
designs that ignite the senses, and so will the mysterious allure of mysticism, alchemy
and ocean life.
On a deeper level, SenseScapes is rooted in the reality of a world facing tangible and
unprecedented challenges, and an exploration of how they can be solved in alternative
and even speculative ways. Here, science becomes fiction and fiction becomes science,
as creatives and thinkers explore how virtual worlds and protopias (a more proactive
and pragmatic version of utopias) can be used to unearth new solutions for the physical
world.

Feng Chen Wang

1
Methodology
WGSN’s forecasts are guided by our STEPIC
methodology, which analyses changes in
society, technology, the environment, politics,
industry and creativity. These six pillars inform
the themes covered in our three annual macro
forecasts (Future Drivers, Future Innovations
and Big Ideas), which are then filtered down to
form the three seasonal trends for our category-
specific forecasts.
Here is how SenseScapes relates to our
broader forecast themes for 2024:

STEPIC pillars: Technology, Environment


Future Drivers 2024: The Everything Net,
Planet Provocation
Future Innovations 2024: Two-Faced Tech, It’s
All Real, Multi-Species Thinking, Designing
Protopias
Big Ideas 2024: Fluid States, Provoking
Protopias

2
Fresh Mint Black
14-4807 TCX 074-80-06 19-4203 TCX 153-19-00
Parchment Purple Swirl
031-63-17 16-0928 TCX 18-3533 TCX 138-44-29
Mellow Peach Gentle Lavender
022-81-13 14-1219 TCX 14-3710 TCX 138-81-07
Radiant Red Adriatic Sea
18-1651 TCX 011-50-32 17-4440 TCX 105-56-31
Pink Flash Tidal Teal
18-2043 TCX 158-44-32 19-4324 TCX 105-27-15
Pink Diamond Sage Leaf
14-3205 TCX 147-82-14 18-5611 TCX 072-45-06
are offset against aquatic tones and illuminated
brights like Pink Flash and Radiant Red. Black,
Diamond, Mellow Peach and Gentle Lavender
Tech-influenced pastels like Fresh Mint, Pink

Parchment and Sage Leaf anchor the palette.


SenseScapes S/S 24
Colour

3
Bohemian alchemist
The concept: interest in astrology and
spirituality picks up pace, fuelled by apps such
as Co – Star and Hint, which offer hyper-
personalised horoscope readings, including
astrological compatibility. Beauty brands
leverage astrology to create products in line
Ayqa Khan
with star signs, birth charts and lunar cycles,
while an array of astrologers and astro-
influencers are taking off across TikTok and
beyond.
Design direction: tap into this boom to update Alémais Beautiful People
boho looks, which have been quietly returning
thanks to the rise of vintage and secondhand.
The overall aesthetic focuses on true hippie
throwback style, with astrological motifs being
key. This also offers plenty of scope for hyper- Dom Sebastian
personalisation, facilitated by digital printing
and collaborations.
Brands to watch: Japanese label Beautiful
People’s pleated skirt features prints inspired by
the astronomical calendar, while Australian
labels Verner and Alémais explore tarot visuals.
Zimmermann (Australia) collaborated with
Scottish artist Anita Inverarity for its A/W 22/23
astrology-inspired collection.
Dsquared2 @siedres Coperni
Sustainability: look to deadstock and leftover
fabrics rendered in patchwork techniques. Use
eco-friendly, low-impact finishes on metal trims
or repurposed and vintage components.
Relevant for: festival wear, casual separates,
dresses, denim, blouses, resortwear, summer
occasion

4
Solarpunk
The concept: blending nature with a futuristic
and optimistic view, the solarpunk sci-fi genre
inspires this story, emerging as a fresh direction
to update #GardenParty looks. As the
movement became prominent during the mid
2000s across Tumblr, solarpunk influences offer
@lodeluistudio
a way to move forward noughties-inspired
designs, with archive pieces by the likes of Jean
Paul Gaultier and Roberto Cavalli leading the
aesthetic.
Colour and pattern: balance futuristic pastels Trigger Kim Shui
with lush greens, earthy browns and neutrals,
used for floral, paisley and botanicals in dense,
irregular designs with subtle Art Nouveau
influences.
Silhouette and styling: this story focuses on @billyvanbakker

maxi- and midi-dresses and blouses rendered in


sheers, FSC-certified viscose and lyocell
cellulosic yarns. Ruffles and soft volume are
key. Experiment with lace, openwork and
patchwork techniques for texture and trims.
Brands to watch: Rosie Evans’ (UK) one-of-a-
kind corset, embellished with vintage doilies
and structured with boning made from
upcycled fruit packaging. Kim Shui’s (US) lace @zazi.vintage W35T Rosie Evans
butterfly dress. Zazi Vintage’s (Netherlands) silk
ikat naturally plant-dyed handwoven dress.
Collina Strada’s (US) A/W 22/23 collection.
Relevant for: summer occasion, festival wear,
resortwear, blouses, skirts

5
Scavenged beauty
The concept: with resourcefulness being an
increasingly important concept, this story is
inspired by mudlarking, where people look for
objects in riverbeds, giving reclaimed or
scavenged items a new lease of life. The family
activity grew during the pandemic and is still
Christoph Rumpf
gaining popularity.
Design direction: shells, stones, minerals and
crystals, discarded metals and reclaimed
beading for one-of-a-kind pieces. Look to
openwork, linen, flax and hemp fibres, slub WeiRan Jacquemus
yarns and micro-textures, as well as dyeing
techniques for a more accessible take on this
trend. Focus on craft-led, natural materials and
an imperfect, handmade aesthetic.
Sustainability: as well as reclaimed yarns and Coperni

components, look to regenerative, vegetable


and agro-waste fibres, naturally dyed fabrics,
and responsibly sourced mother of pearl and
shells.
Brands to watch: Brazilian designer Victor
Hugo Mattos, Swedish brand Hodakova, Thai-
American creative studio Nong Rak, Nigerian
label Fruché, Parisian label Coperni’s shell-
embellished pieces. Victor Hugo Mattos Hodakova Conner Ives

Relevant for: resortwear, jersey, day dresses,


tops, skirts, trousers

6
Synaesthesia
The concept: sensorial experiences come to the
fore, with technology used to amplify the
senses. The phenomena of synaesthesia – when
you experience one of your senses through
another, like hearing music but seeing shapes –
inspires new creative processes while
Dippy Eye
celebrating neurodiversity. Immersive
exhibitions such as Dreamachine and Weird
Sensation Feels Good: The World of ASMR are
gaining momentum, and initiatives such as
Voice Gems, which translates voices into
1883 Magazine Twin Magazine
physical objects, and TikTok’s #Synesthesia,
now with over 300m views, all point to
multisensorial experiences as a growing
influence and inspiration for product design.
Design direction: aesthetically, this theme JNBY
informs pattern, colour and silhouette, from 3D
optical patterns at Chinese brand JNBY, to fresh
iterations for dyeing techniques and distorted
prints.
Ones to watch: look to synaesthetes and
neurodivergent artists such as Mexico’s Melissa
Santamaría, Nashville-based J. Quinn and
Amsterdam-based Daniel Mullen. Consider
partnerships and collaborations.
Gimaguas Tyler McGillivary Thora Stefansdottir
Sustainability: source FSC-certified cellulosics,
GRS-certified recycled polyester and nylon with
low-impact finishes. Choose digital printing and
explore e-textiles, a market projected to be
worth $475bn by 2025, as well as haptic
technology to enhance the sensorial
experience.
Relevant for: dresses, casual separates,
loungewear, tailoring, jersey, knitwear
7
Otherworldly glamour
The concept: tapping into an otherworldly feel,
this direction offers a move on from the popular
#SubversiveSexy trend. Influenced by the rise of
the metaverse and the space race while
retaining a wearable glamour that makes it
accessible, this key recurring look across both
Standing Ground
emerging designers and bigger names
infiltrates editorials, music videos and pop
culture.
Design direction: update bodycon silhouettes
with subtle sheen fabrics and decorative @_____kurumi______ @the.editionmagazine
padding details, as well as feature hardware or
thumbholes. Use layered mesh, netting and
sheers, irregular cutouts and strapping.
Brands to watch: Heliot Emil, Maisie Wilen,
Standing Ground, Poster Girl, Clxto, Oriens, Christopher Esber

Ibrahima Gueye and Glenn Martens for Diesel


are embracing this look.
Sustainability: use FSC-certified Tencel, lyocell
and viscose, GRS recycled nylon, and bio-based
polyamide for sheen. Bio-fabricated materials
such as mycelium are becoming more
accessible. Opt for deadstock, as seen with Sri
Lankan-Italian designer Andrea Brocca’s
deadstock golden chain dress. This is also a key Ibrahima Gueye Maisie Wilen Andrea Adamo
direction for digital fashion.
Relevant for: dresses, jersey, layering basics,
tops, partywear, denim, hosiery, digital fashion

8
Tropadelic office
The concept: tropical looks are a mainstay for
summer stories, evolving from resort and
festival to infiltrate smart-casual collections for
officewear and #Workleisure. Appearing across
S/S 23 menswear shows led by MSGM, Louis
Vuitton and Emporio Armani, this will offer a
JNBY
clear direction for #GenderInclusive ranges.
Silhouette and styling: pair relaxed tailoring
with blouses and cut-and-sew tops featuring
tropical motifs in dark grounds. Add
bioluminescent colour and digital-looking No. 21 Marset
prints of botanicals for a tropics-meets-
psychedelic, tech-infused feel for day dresses
and shirts.
Details: use design details to make pieces work
across genders, such as inner drawstrings on Kimzisu

blazers and adjustable fits. Balance design


considerations such as crotch length and
shoulder width. Opt for linings or accents for
more accessible looks.
Relevant for: tailoring, shirts, blouses, dresses,
jersey, knits, layering basics

@louisaballou @uniformza MSGM

9
Ocean wonders
The concept: water and sub-aquatic life
continue to inform design, from natural indigo
dyes mimicking waves to decorative fancy knits,
oceanic foamy sheers and digital skins inspired
by tides and bubbles.
Colour and print: aquatic blues and greens are
@bevza
familiar and uplifting, working across
demographics, categories and regions. Look to
punchy bright accents to lift the palette and add
a fresh spin. Explore shibori or tie-dyes,
#DistortedDye techniques, #DeepDive and @eyenastya @_romanmoran
#OceanOmbre.
Materials: replicate the fluidity of water via
textured fabrics such as plissé, decorative
quilting and intricately manipulated sheers.
@dressx
Sustainability: celebrate and respect water.
Prioritise digital printing, which can save as
much as 95% of industrial water usage, and opt
for low-impact materials and processes. Look
into bio-indigo technologies to reduce water
and chemical usage.
Relevant for: dresses, trousers, tops, knitwear,
jersey, denim

L'Officiel Mexico @voostore @aditimayer

10
Serene futurism
The concept: a continuation of A/W 23/24’s
Digital Daydream story, the calming and
soothing side of the digital world is interpreted
via featherlight sheers, layered fine knits,
smooth silkies and delicate textures rendered in
futuristic soft pastels.
@fanci.club
Design direction: cutouts, asymmetry and
revealing styles typical of #SubversiveSexy looks
are sweetened for a summer direction, with a
barely there feel, innovative layering and soft
profiles. Veldon Salim Karla Spetic

Details: unfinished hems, irregular textures


and multi straps add an imperfect take on an
otherwise polished aesthetic. Look to chalked
finishes for trims, played out against soft sheen
fabrics for contrast. Use uplifting gradients to Paul Esteves

enhance the soothing aspect.


Sustainability: make sheen sustainable with
FSC-certified cellulosics. Opt for GRS recycled
polyester or nylon yarns from post-consumer
textile waste.
Brands to watch: Indonesian designer Veldon
Salim and label Toton, NYC-based made-to-
measure designer Rebecca Gundling, and South
Korean label EENK. Kristine Boström EENK @w35t_

Relevant for: dresses, blouses, skirts, jersey,


knits, jackets

11
Digital dune
The concept: rugged desert landscapes with an
otherworldly feel continue to inspire
collections, offering updates for elevated
loungewear.
Design direction: look to structures found in
desert terrains to inform designs and revisit
@pammofficial
them through a digital lens. From mineral
patterns and rock formations to scenic prints
and ombré effects, these provide easy updates
for matching sets, relaxed shirts and tops, and
wide-leg, comfort-driven trousers. @andreaiyamah @saramarievictoire

Sustainability: source GOTS and BCI cottons,


FSC-certified lyocells as well as bast fibres such
as linen, hemp, jute and ramie, which require
less water.
Chiron Duong
Innovation: explore climate-adaptive styles that
offer cooling or thermoregulating properties, as
well as UPF sunblock fabrics to allow for an
easy transition between activities in warmer
temperatures.
Relevant for: loungewear, #BeyondTheBeach,
casual separates, denim, matching sets

@_destroyerofworlds_ SIR. This Is Us

12
1 234
Action points

Continue to explore digital and Be inspired by hyped-up nature Promote resourcefulness Leverage technology for lower-
otherworldly aesthetics to and multisensorial experiences impact processes
inform designs

As consumers move seamlessly between Look to movements such as solarpunk Prioritise recycled fabrics, deadstock The optimistic relationship between
the digital and physical worlds, as well as sub-aquatic life and tropical and reclaimed yarns and components. technology and nature comes to the fore
aesthetics and products will be forests, seen through a digital lens for Explore regenerative, vegetable and as designers, artists and companies
increasingly influenced by this blurring inspiration. Replicate heightened agro-waste fibres; cut down on water increasingly seek to build a better future
of realities. Draw inspiration from botanicals and oceanic waves usage; opt for low-impact finishes; and and regenerate damaged ecosystems.
digital artists, futuristic scenarios and throughout silhouettes, prints and celebrate imperfect qualities. Champion From digital printing to e-textiles, use
otherworldly looks for IRL products. details. Multisensorial experiences are design details that can create pieces that 3D design to reduce oversampling
Upskill teams in designing for digital, as gaining momentum, inspiring product work across genders and body shapes to alongside 3D avatar fit solutions. Invest
this space is moving fast as well as new creative processes produce less SKUs while catering to a in technology for more sustainable
wider audience solutions

13
Influences

Standing Ground ARTXV Veldon Salim VMOD @siamomine

Standing Ground ARTXV Veldon Salim VMOD Solarpunk


Up-and-coming London-based The first NFT collective The Jakarta-born Central Saint The newest venture of South A sub-genre within science
label Standing Ground perfectly dedicated to neurodivergent Martins graduate creates Korean wholesale fashion fabric fiction and an art movement,
encapsulates the idea of artists (synaesthesia, ADHD, intricate knitted pieces using a aggregator SwatchOn, VMOD is solarpunk envisions a future
otherworldly glamour with autism), celebrating the power range of natural and synthetic an open marketplace for digital where nature and technology
simple, minimalist-leaning, and potential of neurodiversity. yarns in delicate, raw, textured fashion that bridges the gap coexist in harmony, with
softly sculpted gowns described Founded by Ava Halvai and her knits. Designs feature between real-life physical emphasis on sustainability,
as ‘new couture’ or ‘couture autistic sister Tara over experimental cutouts, garments and digital fashion renewable energy and
jersey’. Long and languid lockdown, the collective aims to asymmetry, layering and ownership, where customers can community. In line with
silhouettes are embellished with increase disability art draping, rendered in soothing purchase interconnected digital Designing Protopias, this is a
moulded details on the hips and representation through Web3 futuristic pastels, offering a new and physical goods. SwatchOn speculative fiction movement
necklines, while elegant draping and has recently partnered with take on #SubversiveSexy looks. and VMOD will work together to that focuses on solutions rather
and feature hardware add subtle Google Arts & Culture. Although just graduated, the build an IRL to URL vertical for than warnings, and is optimistic
drama. designer has interned for the fashion production, from yet realistic in confronting
likes of Ports 1961, Erdem and sourcing materials to producing contemporary problems.
Self-Portrait, and pieces from the and distributing garments. Aesthetically, solarpunk merges
collection have been worn by the practical with the beautiful,
celebrities including Kylie the well-designed with the green
Jenner. and wild, and the bright and
colourful with the earthy and
solid.

14
The WGSN trend matrix 2024
Connecting the dots between our STEPIC foundational research, here are the six Future Drivers, 12 Future
Innovations, six Big Ideas and six Forecast trends that will shape the world in 2024.

15
The WGSN macro forecast 2024
The timeline for WGSN's suite of 2024 trend reports, moving from business strategy to consumer and
product strategy.

16
WGSN’s forecasts are created by our global team of experts
Forecast lead team Hannah Watkins, Head of Prints and Graphics
Helen Palmer, Head of Materials and Textiles Graham Krag, Senior Strategist, Prints and Graphics
Sara Maggioni, Head of Womenswear Fanny Chow, Strategist, Prints and Graphics
Nick Paget, Senior Strategist, Menswear Charlotte Casey, Senior Strategist, Knitwear
Noah Zagor, Senior Strategist, Menswear Contributors
Erin Rechner, Head of Kidswear APAC
Allison Goodfellow-Ash, Strategist, Kidswear Wingo Xue, Fashion Editor, WGSN China
Jane Collins, Senior Strategist, Footwear and Accessories Yianni Giovanoglou, Trend Specialist, Australia and New Zealand
Gemma Riberti, Head of Interiors Stacey Wee, Account Manager
Reiko Morrison, Head of CMF, WGSN Consumer Tech Africa
Yvonne Kostiak, Senior Strategist, Active Raeesa Brey, Researcher
Charlotte Browning, Strategist, Active LATAM
Sofia Martellini, Senior Strategist, Fashion Feed and Catwalks

17

You might also like