Womenswear Forecast S/S

24: Creative Confidence

Creative Confidence celebrates lateral thinking, circular
design and innovative techniques, resulting in exuberant
and resourceful womenswear

Sara Maggioni
08.18.22 - 13 minutes

William Ukoh
Introduction
This direction follows on from our A/W 23/24 forecast trend, Creative Reset. It
embraces the joy and ingenuity that come from lateral thinking and questioning
the status quo.

As the world grapples with momentous change, Creative Confidence seeks to redefine
our relationship with established ideas and structures by championing the lateral over
the literal, and the purposeful over the superfluous.
For S/S 24, this will emerge in numerous ways: an enthusiasm for design hacks, DIY and
DIYW (do it your way); an uptake of radical recycling and maximum resourcefulness,
where everything is ripe for creative repair and reuse; an exploration of precise
personalisation and on-demand production for a waste-free future; and the reinvention
of better basics at all levels, whether through material, colour or construction.
A mix of past eras and subcultures will be influential, but these references will be
spliced and remixed in contemporary and sometimes irreverent ways. Honest and
authentic sentiments will also be prized, offering a subversive counterpoint to a world
that is increasingly defined by perfecting, tracking, quantifying and curating.
This direction celebrates creative freedom and expression, but not creative excess.
The underlying message is that design for design’s sake is not enough anymore: there
has to be a good reason for things to exist, and disruptive processes can often be the
best path to invention – and reinvention.

Lacoste

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Methodology
WGSN’s forecasts are guided by our STEPIC
methodology, which analyses changes in
society, technology, the environment, politics,
industry and creativity. These six pillars inform
the themes covered in our three annual macro
forecasts (Future Drivers, Future Innovations
and Big Ideas), which are then filtered down to
form the three seasonal trends for our
category-specific forecasts.
Here is how Creative Confidence relates to
our broader forecas t themes for 2024:

STEPIC p illars : Industry, Creativity

Future Dr ivers 2024: Direct to Essentials, The
Case for Creativity
Future Innovations 2024: No to ‘Normal’,
Subtracting Adds Value, Collective
Intelligence, Energised!
Big Ideas 2024: Democra-sized, Code-
Breaking

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Colour

18-1657 TCX

16-1422 TCX

16-1356 TCX

15-1247 TCX

18-1140 TCX

13-0651 TCX
This palette embraces individualism while
remaining grounded, blending expressive and

Sweet Mandarin

Apricot Crush
nostalgic brights with functional mid-tones.

Cyber Lime
Italian Clay
Crimson

Nutshell
Reassuring yet characterful Nutshell sits
alongside acid retro brights like Sweet
Mandarin and Cyber Lime, while considered

024-65-27
010-38-36

024-37-20
023-61-36
022-62-16

051-76-36
colours like Elemental Blue and Italian Clay act
as both core and fashions shades. Galactic
Cobalt and Malachite add depth.

19-5421 TCX

14-4123 TCX

18-3922 TCX

19-3952 TCX

14-4501 TCX

19-4203 TCX
Galactic Cobalt
Elemental Blue
Glacial Blue
Malachite

Pumice

Black
078-33-24

120-28-32

153-19-00
031-77-03
117-47-13
112-75-11

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Statement simplicity
The concep t: bolder colours have been
slowly making a comeback in line with
dopamine dressing, applied to confident
silhouettes as opposed to basics and core
items. Valentino’s A/W 22/23 show
encapsulates the ethos of this story by
@acnestudios
stripping down the palette to one hue (named
Pink PP) to redirect attention to the silhouette,
details, surface decoration, as well as the
individual wearing the clothes. This
demonstrates that subtraction of something
UAU Project Okay Africa
equals amplification of something else.
Des ign direction: texture as well as amplified
and intricate details accompany bold shades
across product categories. Consider
digitally printed 3D surface decoration. Opt for L'idee
colours that not only channel the need to feel
energised with bold primaries and glamorous
brights, but also shades with restorative
qualities, such as our Colour of the Year 2024
Apricot Crush.
Sus tainability: favour # SustainableColour,
certified low-impact dyes, pigments and
processes, and consider circular sources
derived from waste. Invest in bio-based dye
Gyo Bal @bymalenebirger Lucy's Magazine
technologies or partner with innovative
suppliers to deliver brights with less
environmental impact.
Relevant for: dresses, tailoring, formal jersey,
skirts, blouses, outerwear

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Indie glow
The concep t: a new wave of hedonism
emerges, driven by a post-pandemic lust for
partying. At the same time, a backlash against
toxic positivity, the relentless pursuit of joy and
ubiquitous feelgood slogans rises, with people
embracing the full spectrum of emotions, even
CHB
negative ones. An anti-hustle, emo attitude
reminiscent of the indie scene from the mid
2000s to early 2010s comes through, with
accounts such as @indiesleaze documenting
the decadence of the era.
@kindontom Ekaterina Koroleva
Des ign direction: focus on the lo-fi aesthetics
of the early days of social media, which is more
spontaneous, unpretentious and free-spirited.
This is nostalgia of a recent past that appeals
because it feels far enough away to bring back, Ioannes
but new enough to not have been re-explored
many times. This story focuses on a grown-up
version of indie sleaze, drawing from early
2010s indie style. Grunge references are
rendered in cleaner cuts and elevated
materials for a contemporary direction with
subversive, sensual undertones.
Styling and s ilhouette: think unexpected
layering, slouchy knitwear, tie-front blouses
JordanLuca Sara Armstrong DSquared2
and lightweight dresses worn over trousers,
alongside moody black and red tones. This
look can blur the lines between day and night
dressing.
Brands to watch: London-based label
JORDANLUCA, Italian brand Provincia, and
Canadian slow fashion brand Sararmstrong.

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Illusion
The concep t: this story focuses on inventive
prints and techniques reminiscent Surrealism,
which is currently in the spotlight thanks to
global exhibitions on the subject, including
Surrealism Beyond Borders at Tate Modern in
London and the Met in New York; Hyperreal:
@olivialatinovich
The Art of Trompe l’Oeil in Madrid; and
Brazilian Surrealist artist Maria Martins’
retrospective at MASP in São Paulo.
Des ign direction: tapping into our Subtracting
Adds Value concept, trompe-l’œil and mock @syndicalchamber Sophia Nubes
layers create an illusion, replicating textures
and design details without extra components
or embellishments. First popularised across
fashion by Schiaparelli in the late 1920s,
trompe-l’œil is seeing a resurgence across the Reviclo by Markova
catwalks and beyond, with labels such as
Loewe, Balmain, Balenciaga, Y/Project and
Bottega Veneta all embracing it with different
degrees of subtlety.
Pr ints and grap hics : play with the contrast
between the real and the fake, from print-as-
texture techniques, mimicking sequins,
crochets and distressed finishes, to more eye-
catching prints of pockets and trims and even
Y/Project Mugler @ellissellisselliss
body parts, all facilitated by digital printing.
Relevant for: layering basics, dresses, tops,
bottomweights, denim

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Sartori-all
The concep t: this story highlights the return
of tailoring and sartorial looks, which are
making a strong appearance across catwalks
and street style as an antidote to the over-
saturation of the ultra casual looks of recent
seasons. The vibe is classic, with the emphasis
@1offparis
on details and playing with proportions to
enhance simplicity and individuality.
Des ign direction: continuing our A/W 23/24
Fluid Careers story, # GenderInclusive clothing
that works across all genders is key. Create @the.peterdo Edward Crutchley
products without a specific gender in mind, and
break down the silos between women’s and
men’s design teams.
Details : adjustable details that allow for
adaptability and a flexible fit are key, from Miu Miu

strategically placed buttons to ankle straps,

internal drawstrings, adjustable front wraps
and side adjusters for trousers.
Brands to watch: Look to South African label
Wanda Lephoto, Italian gender-inclusive brand
CHB, and Argentinian label Hotel. While
smaller labels have been championing this
direction, more established brands are
increasingly leaning into it, with Miu Miu’s A/W Wanda Lephoto CHB MeiMeiJ
22/23 collection hitting the right spot.
Sus tainability: give leftover stock a new lease
of life. Use deadstock libraries to riff on classic
sartorial looks. Keep longevity and durability
top of mind, strengthen stress points, and offer
repairable elements.
Relevant for: tailoring, shirting, outerwear

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Find your way
The concep t: celebrate individuality and
champion a circular mindset via maximum
resourcefulness and modular design with DIY
elements.
Des ign direction: explore zero-waste
production techniques where the entire fabric
@kerne.milk
roll is used and no waste is created during
cutting and sewing. Get creative with
deadstock. Consider detachable sleeves,
details and prints to allow for personalisation,
as seen at US streetwear brand Tombogo. Martina Spetlova Kristine Boström

Brands to watch: Nigerian label IAMISIGO

creates fabrics from recycled deadstock cotton
jersey T-shirts sourced from the Kantamanto
secondhand market in Accra, Ghana. In line
with our Code-Breaking Big Idea, the make- @iamisigo

your-own-design kit by Roberts | Wood

(UK)offers printable PDF patterns for buyers
to design their own apparel. All designs are
available in sizes 6-24 and were developed to
include smaller pattern pieces, making it
easier to use offcuts and leftover textiles. Thai
brand Whatsoever’s upcycled capsule range is
made entirely using cutoffs from previous
collections. Berlin-based zero-waste brand
@whatsoever_official Tombogo @roberts.wood
Soup Archive makes intricately distorted
pieces with used and found materials. Malian
designer Awa Meité creates unique pieces
made out of recycled textiles and yarns,
empowering local villages.
Relevant for: dresses, blouses, tops, skirts,
denim, jersey, matching separates

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Sartorial sports
The concep t: merging sportif styles with a
sartorial undertone, this look offers a hybrid
direction, which works well for increasingly
flexible lifestyles and moves the #AllDayActive
theme forward.
Des ign direction: add sartorial elements to
Vaara
sport-inspired looks and vice versa, either via
design or styling. Pair streamlined silhouettes
and tailored pieces for a contemporary take, or
opt for classic retro sport styles and traditional
sartorial fabrics for a nostalgia-tinged adidas x Gucci Lukhanyo Mdingi
direction, as championed by the adidas x Gucci
collaboration.
Details : use chevron graphics, active-inspired
tipping, raglan sleeve construction and built-in
drawcords. Add performance-led qualities such Lacoste

as UV protection, waterproofing and high-vis

details for commute-appropriate function.
Sus tainability: keep circularity front of mind
with disassembly closure mechanisms,
removable trims and mono-material linings.
Extend the life of pieces by adding functional
detachable components for modularity, and to
adapt styles for different climates.
Relevant for: tops, trousers, skirts, matching Staff Only Studio Chloé Leinwande

sets, tailoring, knitwear, jersey, shorts,

outerwear

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Amped-up retro
The concep t: retro aesthetics have been
gaining momentum, reinterpreted by the
popular ‘newtro’ (뉴트로) culture from South
Korea, thanks to the focus on vintage and
resale.
Des ign direction: revive nostalgic elements
Emmy Kasbit
with bolder colours and prints in fresh
combinations, and add contemporary details.
Draw from eras such as the 1960s and 1970s,
but don’t revert to pastiche interpretations that
will not resonate with a younger audience. Free People Maciek Miloch

Colour: choose confident acid brights. Sweet

Mandarin, Cyber Lime and neons offset against
classic Nutshell and brights including
Malachite and Galactic Cobalt.
Wen Studio
Sus tainability: use deadstock libraries, source
vintage fabrics and apply more contemporary
cuts. Opt for GOTS-certified, BCI and GRS
recycled fibres, FSC-certified viscose and
lyocell.
Relevant for: knitwear, shirts, blouses, skirts,
trousers, dresses, jackets, denim, outerwear

@framed_clothing Lukhanyo Mdingi A Fashion Edit

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Surreal warping
The concep t: this is another story inspired by
Surrealism, this time offering a more
contemporary and sleek take, where hemlines,
feature details and silhouettes are warped and
distorted.
Des ign direction: use this story to add design-
Zehua Wu
led elements to cotton shirts, classic trousers
and tailoring. Look to irregular and uneven cuts
and proportions to enhance the off-kilter
surreal feel, and offer a fresh take on
# ScallopEdge designs. Leinwande Bridget Awosika

Sus tainability: add interest to pockets and

edges for secondhand, leftover and damaged
stock, as seen at Ukrainian upcycling fashion
brand Oversized. Use repurposed materials as
well as 3D printing for buttons. Açude

Ones to watch: Nigerian label Gozel Green,

Brazilian brand Açude, and Fleur d’Elise by
Caitlin Elise, a University of Portsmouth
graduate.
Relevant for: shirts, jackets, tailoring, skirts,
shorts, jersey

Selfi Melitta Baumeister @oversized_studio

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1 234
Action points
Explore alternative processes
Environmental concerns, energy
implications and a growing desire
among creatives to challenge the status
quo are all fostering an exploration of
new, disruptive ways of working. From
zero-waste processes that promote
maximum resourcefulness, to the move
away from traditional binary design
considerations, look to break silos
within your teams and encourage
innovative thinking and approaches for
design solutions that will benefit both
profit and the planet
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Refresh the concept of
nostalgia
Nostalgia is a defining trend of the
2020s, also fuelling the resurgence of
vintage and secondhand clothing.
However, it’s important to be mindful of
nostalgia fatigue –when something
saturates the market, it starts to lose its
power. Look to recent nostalgia of the
mid/late 2010s, which draws from past
eras but creates for current times.
Avoid pastiche renderings. Keep a new,
diverse audience front of mind
Embrace imperfection
As deadstock and resourceful design
gain traction, and as oversampling
becomes a growing issue, celebrate
design flaws and educate your customer
about them. Take note of current anti-
hustle mindsets shifts. Use the
backlash against toxic positivity and
pressures of wellness culture to drive
product. Escapism doesn’t always have
to mean over-the-top styles, feelgood
slogans and embellished partywear.
Look into rebellious subcultures to
employ spontaneous, unpolished, lo-fi
aesthetics
Continue to bet on fluid and
flexible styles
Hybrid styles that work across
occasions as well as genders show no
sign of abating, as fluidity and versatility
remain key concepts. Merge sportif
styles with sartorial elements, and
explore design details that allow for
adjustability and personalisation. As
nightlife and events expand, offer styles
that blur the line between day and night
Influences
Kristine Boström
Kristine Boström
The Swedish School of Textiles
graduate uses a zero-waste
approach for her spliced and
draped pieces. For this
collection, the designer used up
the transfer print ink by placing
another material underneath a
transparent fabric, taking
advantage of the digital printer’s
inability to print all the way out
to the edge, and making use of
the entire fabric piece by
keeping the overflow, which
would otherwise be discarded.
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CHB
CHB by Christian Boaro
Launched in 2020 during global
lockdowns, CHB is a gender-
inclusive label by emerging
Italian designer Christian Boaro,
focusing on timeless styles and
celebrating individuality.
Tailored suits and coats,
luxurious velvet or lace stretchy
tops and elongated shirts are
designed to fit and flatter all
genders, rendered in a mostly
monochrome palette.
Bethany Williams
Bethany Williams:
Alternative Systems
This exhibition at London’s
Design Museum showcases
designer Bethany Williams’
alternative vision and
approaches within her design
practices. The focus is on waste
materials and community
collaboration, exploring
Williams’ social-driven projects
that are curated thematically
rather than by collection.
Wanda Lephoto
Wanda Lephoto
The Johannesburg-based brand
encourages self-expression and
celebrates African cultures and
style, with a strong focus on
tailoring. Its A/W 22/23
collection is an ode to ordinary
people, with pieces inspired by
uniforms and featuring details
such as 3D flower appliqués to
embellish tailoring. Its
campaign includes short films
that follow the bold beginnings
of different protagonists as they
embrace the chance to express
themselves in a way that stays
true to their authentic self.
WGSN Original Image
Surrealism
Surrealism is known for its
dreamlike aesthetic that is at
times humorous, but it’s also a
way to challenge authority and
imagine a new world through
radical ways of thinking. A far-
reaching movement with a
global influence and diverse
artists, Surrealism is being
spotlighted across various
exhibitions that focus on lesser-
known names to highlight the
cultural power and different
perspectives of this movement
beyond the likes of Salvador
Dali.
The WGSN trend matrix 2024
Connecting the dots between our STEPIC foundational research, here are the six Future Drivers, 12 Future
Innovations, six Big Ideas and six Forecast trends that will shape the world in 2024.

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The WGSN macro forecast 2024
The timeline for WGSN's suite of 2024 trend reports, moving from business strategy to consumer and
product strategy.

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WGSN’s forecasts are created by our global team of experts
Forecas t lead team
Helen Palmer, Head of Materials and Textiles
Sara Maggioni, Head of Womenswear
Nick Paget, Senior Strategist, Menswear
Noah Zagor, Senior Strategist, Menswear
Erin Rechner, Head of Kidswear
Allison Goodfellow-Ash, Strategist, Kidswear
Jane Collins, Senior Strategist, Footwear and Accessories
Gemma Riberti, Head of Interiors
Reiko Morrison, Head of CMF, WGSN Consumer Tech
Yvonne Kostiak, Senior Strategist, Active
Charlotte Browning, Strategist, Active
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Hannah Watkins, Head of Prints and Graphics
Graham Krag, Senior Strategist, Prints and Graphics
Fanny Chow, Strategist, Prints and Graphics
Charlotte Casey, Senior Strategist, Knitwear
Contr ibutors
APAC
Wingo Xue, Fashion Editor, WGSN China
Yianni Giovanoglou, Trend Specialist, Australia and New Zealand
Stacey Wee, Account Manager
Afr ica
Raeesa Brey, Researcher
LATAM
Sofia Martellini, Senior Strategist, Fashion Feed and Catwalks