Product Forecast

Womenswear Forecast
A/W 23/24: Care Culture
Meaningful, nurturing and thoughtful design is at the heart
of our Care Culture forecast, driven by the appeal of home,
nature, community, and imperfect aesthetics

Sara Maggioni
02.22.22 · 15 minutes

Acne Studios

Acne Studios

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Care Culture: introduction
Who and what do we value? This question sits at the heart of Care Culture, as
people reprioritise wellbeing over work, community over competition, and the
planet over profit.

The pandemic and the climate crisis have brought the importance of care into sharp
focus – whether it be healthcare, self-care, care and repair of our belongings, or care for
cultures and customs. They have also caused new migratory patterns, as people turn
their back on crowded cities, flee the effects of climate change, or establish
intergenerational homes to care for loved ones. As a result, collectives are becoming
more important as a source of support, security and a sense of meaning.
In 2024, this great reorientation will fuel demand for flexible, multipurpose and ‘go
anywhere’ products that are made for – or inspired by – nomadic lifestyles, both
traditional and contemporary. Home will also remain important as a sentiment as well
as a place, with designs and experiences that can recreate familiar comforts in any
setting. Healing and haptic materials, mood-boosting colours and earthy textures will
connect us back to nature, and previously marginalised voices and old traditions will be
raised up with respect, and a recognition that there is unity and strength in diversity.
Recent years have exposed shortcomings in the way our world works, but just like the
Japanese art of kintsugi, people will be finding new, more communal ways to fill the
cracks, devising systems for creating and conserving products that are healthier for
people and the planet.
Keywords: restorative, multifunctional, low-tech, tactile, earth tones, kinship slogans

The Arrivals
Methodology
WGSN’s forecasts are guided by our STEPIC methodology, which analyses changes in
society, technology, the environment, politics, industry and creativity. These six
pillars inform the themes covered in our three annual macro forecasts (Future
Drivers, Future Innovations and Big Ideas), which are then filtered down to form the
three seasonal trends for our category-specific forecasts.
Here is how Care Culture relates to our broader forecast themes for 2024:

STEPIC pillars: Society, Politics

Future Drivers 2024: The Caring Economy, New Narratives
Future Innovations 2024: Living With Intent, Home-Making, Contemporary
Commons, Cultural Power
Big Ideas 2024: Care-Taking, People-Power Shi$s
 Crimson Black
18-1657 TCX 010-38-36 19-4203 TCX 153-19-00
Mindful Mauve Chalk
17-3014 TCX 147-55-21 12-0304 TCX 034-84-05
Sepia Glacial Blue
19-1220 TCX 019-27-14 14-4123 TCX 112-75-11
Carambola Candied Orange
15-0956 TCX 036-74-35 16-1164 TCX 026-58-35
Sage Leaf Apricot Crush
*All colour names are specific to WGSN
18-5611 TCX 072-45-06 15-1247 TCX 024-65-27
Pink Clay Terracotta
14-1309 TCX 014-73-08 18-1441 TCX 017-43-20
This is a feelgood but grounded palette, balancing

pastels and mid-tones such as Sage Leaf, Mindful

Candied Orange and Carambola with soothing

anchored by Black, deep Crimson, and earthy

energetic, fruity brights like Apricot Crush,

Mauve and Pink Clay. The overall mood is

Care Culture A/W 23/24
Colour

tones.
Homebound
The concept: as flexible working patterns and
remote worker visas become more common,
there will be an increase in people on the move
– a phenomenon that author Parag Khanna
describes as "Cloud People". People are also
moving closer to nature and working remotely
Stella Vita
at workstations in forests and parks. This story
explores these new nomadic lifestyles, via
solution-driven, versatile items.
Silhouette & styling: the aesthetic is outdoors-
driven, but #thegreatoutdoors rugged looks @fce_tools @jacquemus
evolve into a sleeker, more contemporary,
aesthetic, with sartorial elements as well as
comfort-driven lounge pieces. It’s a new take on
the #homehub trend, but this direction explores
Stella Vita
the idea of taking all you need with you and Fashion Week Streets

home-making, wherever you are. Hybrid styling

is key: Sacai, Meryll Rogge, Colville and F/CE
champion this look. The Sacai x ACRONYM
collab blends technical clothes with fashion-led
@fce_tools @jacquemus
appeal.
Brands to watch: Japanese brand Poliquant has
designed a backpack that transforms into a zip-
up hooded jacket with storage, and has
Fashion Week Streets
removable pockets. Danish brand Rains's nylon
lightweight outerwear is waterproof with a luxe Miu Miu The Arrivals @teaaalexis
reverse side coating and so$ matte finish. Molly
Sellars makes practical outdoorwear from
discarded festival gear.
Relevant for: outerwear, jackets, workleisure,
knits, cut and sew, tops, loungewear

Miu Miu The Arrivals @teaaalexis

Soulful minimalism
The concept: a less-is-better ethos carries on,
with a more imperfect look infiltrating
minimalist styles, evolving our S/S 23 So$
Profiles story – it’s timeless, it’s minimalism, but
it has a love-worn, soulful feel. It's also about
creating ‘moment pieces’ (items that last for a
@gabriele.colangelo
long time, but are still special, being
reminiscent of a moment or occasion in time).
Brands to watch: recently launched Italian
brand Quira by Veronica Leoni (ex designer for
Jil Sander, Celine and Moncler 1952); Brazilian Normcore magazine Talia Byre
community-led designer Joao Maraschin, who
works with artisans to promote long-term social
change; British designer Talia Byre, who creates
minimalist clothes using locally sourced
@gabriele.colangelo
deadstock, as well as natural materials such as Charlie White
walnut husks to dye fabric; Dutch designer
Charlotte Bakkenes, who experiments with
artisanal techniques such as hand pleating, and
more innovative technologies, like self-grown
Normcore magazine Talia Byre
crystals.
Circularity: embrace imperfections and flaws
and elevate the unfinished. Favour recycled
buttons and trims of self-fabric ties for
fastenings. Drive home the ‘moment piece’ Charlie White
@joaomaraschin Quira @charlottebakkenes
message by offering repair and customisation
services.
Relevant for: all categories

@joaomaraschin Quira @charlottebakkenes

Primal warmth
The concept: a continuation of the S/S 23 Never-
Ending Summer trend, this story leverages the
benefits and mood-boosting properties of
natural light, especially around the golden
hours of dawn and dusk, but moves into a
season-appropriate direction.
@carlosesser
Silhouette & styling: update transitional staples
and simple silhouettes with warm and
comforting shades of autumnal sunset tones.
Add textural interest via so$ pleating,
#brushedtexture and slubbed bouclé, and Issey Miyake @alix.rio
consider calming prints in sun-baked tones,
and so$-focus effects inspired by photography
taken during dawn or dusk.
Sustainability: source RMS and RWS mohair @carlosesser
and wools, BCI and GOTS-certified cotton, @anettposalaki

hemp blends and FSC-certified viscose and

recycled polyamide. Use dissolvable threads for
better recyclability.
Issey Miyake @alix.rio
Relevant for: all categories

@anettposalaki
@y.diegogama Corey J Isenor @rosasafiahconnell

@y.diegogama Corey J Isenor @rosasafiahconnell

Home-proud
The concept: the synergy between interiors and
fashion remains a key consideration, with more
brands expanding into lifestyle and homeware
products. In this story, interiors inspire fashion,
showing a sense of pride in the home as we see
chairs, vases and even technical drawings
Manolo Mesa
emerging as a fresh direction for print and
graphics, and home textiles and domestic
objects informing fabric, trims and silhouettes.
Position this as a move on for the #cottagecore
trend, steering it into a much cleaner, more
Acne Studios Acne Studios
contemporary direction.
Sustainability: minimise waste by recycling
scraps and unused fabric into home
accessories. Partner with interior designers and
Manolo Mesa
artisans for all-encompassing fashion-to-home @no6store
ranges.
Brands to watch: the Harvest collection by Priss
Niinikoski (a graduate from Antwerp's Royal
Academy of Fine Arts, and a Hyéres finalist) Acne Studios Acne Studios
focuses of wearable objects including ‘vase
dresses’ and ‘basket coats’, celebrating the
simplicity of everyday objects
Relevant for: outerwear, jackets, woven tops,
@no6store
cut and sew, skirts, knits, denim, loungewear Alexandra Larrabure @yosigo_yosigo Nathalie Du Pasquier

Alexandra Larrabure @yosigo_yosigo Nathalie Du Pasquier

Love-cycled
The concept: in line with the concepts of multi-
species thinking and phytocentric design, this
story celebrates nature in its full form,
including decaying nature. There is a new wave
of garden designers celebrating the full life
cycle of the garden, even embracing dead and
dying plants, emerging as a key topic across last
year's Chelsea Flower Show and the Venice
Ching-Lin
Biennale. It's all about highlighting the value of
decay, as dead plants go back into the ground
and feed new ones – perfectly illustrating the Hempful
concept of interdependence and the
importance of regenerative practices and Ukrainian brand Hempful uses organically grown hemp for its
design. multiple benefits: it's biodegradable, renewable hypoallergenic,
The Met Museum Blog
and it absorbs carbon dioxide as the plant grows
Design direction: for fashion, this inspires
prints and graphic, natural dyes, fruity fibres
and compostable fabrics, as well as nature- Ching-Lin
inspired embellishment and repair, as
championed by Belgium-based Taiwanese @iritdulman

designer Ching-Lin. Hempful

Sustainability: circular design is at the heart of

this story, so as well as renewable and
The Met Museum Blog
degradable yarns and low-impact processes,
keep key considerations front of mind. For
example, for over-distressed looks, only engage
with deadstock and discarded pieces, and
source via partners, as opposed to intentionally
@iritdulman
eroding and damaging new materials. Prioritise Acne Studios @_altadill @beaufille
recycling and disassembly.
Relevant for: jersey, knits, tops, denim, dresses
Digital-luxe lounge
The concept: loungewear has been the star
category of the past couple of years, and while it
will remain a bigger category than it once was,
it won’t be growing at the same speed and will
undoubtedly need diversification and
innovation to keep the momentum going. A
@mattsfiles
sleeker sports-luxe look elevates staples like
hoodies and joggers, with silkier, smoother and
more technical handles and performance-led
proprieties being an important element.
Sustainability: this is a key direction for @marthahunt @aeronstudio
#genderinclusive design, but aside from more
relaxed silhouettes, think about flexible fits via
regulating straps, more stretch and
#fabricmanipulation, which means less waste
@mattsfiles
and fewer returns. Look into key fit and sizing @kikavargas_
strategies, virtual try-ons using 3D iPhone
scans, as seen at Hong Kong brand Unspun, and
digital sampling for pre-orders, as championed
by Farfetch.
@marthahunt @aeronstudio
Innovation: create smart, hardworking pieces
that offer benefits like healing support, climate-
adaptability, UPF protection, breathability and
natural weatherproofing.
@kikavargas_
Relevant for: loungewear, cut and sew, @twinsflorence Amomento @skmanorhill
outerwear, jackets

@twinsflorence Amomento @skmanorhill

Hobbycore
The concept: all the hobbies we have picked up
during the pandemic, from cra$ing to foraging
and quirky activities like metal detecting, are
celebrated here, offering a direction for
#deadstockdesign and creative collaborations.
This also provides a way to engage with your
Cavia
customer via initiatives such as mending
tutorials and themed workshops. With
#upcycledfashion showing 355m views
(February 2022) look to partner with TikTok
creators
@notsonormal_la @goodhood
Design direction: think #cra$core
patchworking and quilting, lo-fi graphic tees
depicting offbeat hobbies, clever embroidery to
cover up flaws, hand-dyeing techniques, and
Cavia
practical workwear and uniforms in awkward @untitled.artworks
proportions. Don't be afraid to mix and match
when styling and merchandising.
Sustainability: this is an obvious story for
deadstock design and upcycling, so prioritise @notsonormal_la @goodhood
using existing fabrics over sourcing new
materials. Work with emerging deadstock
marketplaces and partner with key players for
scalable upcycling strategies.
@untitled.artworks
Ones to watch: Milan-based brand Untitled @alexandraarmata @julietjohnstone Kindred
Artworks makes unique signed pieces; for her
30 Jeans in 30 Days project, Alexandra Armata
sourced 70 pairs of used jeans, and
deconstructed and upcycled them over a month
during lockdowns. Cavia's new collection is
made with upcycled vintage Levi’s and
embellished with handmade crochet.

@alexandraarmata @julietjohnstone Kindred

Soft Alpine
The concept: the winter sports boom we called
out for A/W 22/23 will continue to influence
product design. Here, the focus is on a quiet,
elevated direction inspired by après-ski themes.
Silhouette and styling: cosy knits and jersey
pieces, base layers, jumpers and sleek
SolitaireC
outerwear are all layered together, rendered in
calming tones and luxe fabrics like superfine
merino wool, RAS alpaca and yak and
cashmere.
Innovation: use this story to supercharge your @ssawmag Dagsmejan

layering basics and innerwear and turn them

into fashion solutions to provide coverage,
warmth and support. Add thermoregulating,
antibacterial, sweat-wicking and soothing SolitaireC
properties. Grazia France

Sustainability: source responsible wools and

certified cottons, or blend wool with bast fibres
like hemp, linen and ramie. Consider undyed
@ssawmag Dagsmejan
and naturally coloured fibres to avoid
unnecessary over-dyeing.
Relevant for: knitwear, outerwear and lounge

Grazia France
@everlane Dazed Korea @thefrankieshop

@everlane Dazed Korea @thefrankieshop

Outdoor utility
The concept: with consumers increasingly
scrutinising their purchases, familiar trends
that have practicality and durability at their
core are a failsafe choice. This story combines
utility and outdoors themes, providing a new
direction to refresh two enduring and
@marfastance
commercial trends.
Silhouette & styling: take signature elements
from both trends and create a new look via
styling or design. Use utility fabrics like sturdy
twills, ripstops and canvases, and details such Uma Wang Encens Magazine
as toggles, straps and drawcords, and apply to
volume outerwear, cosy knitwear and fashion-
led silhouettes.
Innovation: explore natural weatherproofing @marfastance
for versatile all-weather pieces. Use bio-based @rodebjerofficial

coatings as well as recycled and antibacterial

polyester and nylon. Promote functional
durability, reinforcing areas break easily.
Uma Wang Encens Magazine
Circularity: as this builds on two recurring
trends, reassess your stock and archives before
creating new items. Consider small-batch
upcycled ranges and explore resale options via
direct-to-consumer or by partnering with resale
@rodebjerofficial
sites. In the US, resale retail is predicted to Encens Magazine @umamiism Encens Magazine
reach $53bn by 2023, and China's luxury resale
market is set to reach $33bn by 2025.
Relevant for: outerwear, jacket, trousers,
knitwear, cut and sew
Poetic folklore
The concept: a romantic, folk-led mood taps
into the importance of community and
heritage. Leverage your brand's own regional
heritage, or approach this via authentic
#creativecollabs with artisans and makers in
different regions. Also consider partnering with
@garbagecore_
organisations like Roots Studio, which works
with communities to digitise their work and
ensure they are appropriately compensated.
Silhouette & styling: this story moves on
#cottagecore themes, celebrating the rural and @aldosalucci Mayali
cra$ed while preserving a feminine undertone.
Opt for cleaner silhouettes, contemporary
details and unexpected styling for a fresher
direction that steps away from more familiar
@garbagecore_
boho pastoral looks. @savedny

Prints & graphics: use more orderly,

symmetrical and dense motifs to refresh florals
and botanical prints.
@aldosalucci Mayali
Sustainability: source GOTS cotton and FSC
cellulosic blends, recycled synthetics and
vintage deadstock.
Relevant for: dresses, tops, jackets, trousers,
denim, cut and sew
@savedny
@bodements_ D la Repubblica @maimoun_ny

@bodements_ D la Repubblica @maimoun_ny

1 234
Action points
Find opportunities around
lifestyles on the move and a
desire to travel light
Flexible working patterns and more
people on the move will influence the
product we buy and will create scope for
alternative revenue streams. Back
#modulardesign and multifunctional,
lightweight and ultra-practical product,
particularly around travel ranges.
Consider partnering with hotels and
fashion rentals as people increasingly
seek to travel light, especially now that
airlines charge he$y prices for baggage,
even on long-haul flights
Create ‘moment’ pieces and
promote design flaws
Add character to your timeless pieces by
balancing a minimalist ethos with an
imperfect, soulful feel. Embrace flaws in
both fabric and damaged stock, finding
creative ways to repurpose it, and strive
to create items that last beyond one
season but retain a sense of occasion.
Opt for stripped-back patterns and use
digital printing for better recyclability
Inject comforting and healing
qualities into ranges
Tap into the ongoing desire for comfort
and wellbeing by choosing fabrics,
silhouettes and colours that have a
reassuring and calming quality. Look to
tactile fabrics, rounded edges, mood-
boosting quiet shades and added
properties like embedded support and
natural thermoregulation. Themes like
nostalgia and the importance of home-
making and care-taking are key, so
create product and narratives around
them
Actively engage in circular
design strategies
With consumers' environmental
awareness growing and legislation
increasing, a more circular approach is
paramount. From designing with
disassembly and recyclability in mind to
promoting longevity by strengthening
garments' stress points and exploring
resale, rental, take-back incentives and
repair, there are plenty of ways and
opportunities to engage and start
prioritising circular design strategies
Influences
Talia Byre
Talia Byre
Central Saint Martins alumni
Talia Byre likes her designs "to
have a soul". She aims to
replicate the feeling of clothing
that has been passed down, and
titles her pieces with names
Talia such
Byre
as ‘Everlasting Skirt’. Launched
during lockdowns when she
moved back to Manchester, her
brand is already gaining
popularity thanks to her
handcra$ed yet fashion-led
styles and sustainability ethos.
@celinecelines
Ecosystems Over
Aesthetics
Slow Factory founder Céline
Seeman advocates for a design
approach that favours
ecosystems over aesthetics,
meaning that while aesthetics
@celinecelines
are important, the health of the
ecosystems must take priority.
She says: "If the only red dyes
available are extremely toxic for
human and environmental
health, we’ll just have to choose
another colour.” Her ethos is in
line with our Planet Provocation
future driver.
PengTaiOfficial
Peng Tai
Taiwanese designer Peng Tai's
Earth Project collection is
inspired by ancient Chinese
philosophy and celebrates how
the earth can nourish
everything, being both the
PengTaiOfficial
source and the place of return –
a core idea of our Love-cycled
story. From pattern cutting to
dyeing, all steps of Tai's
production are handmade, and
each garment is unique.
The Little Book of Jeong
Jeong
One of Korea's most defining
cultural concepts, Jeong is the
art of building deep connections
to people and places, which grow
stronger with time. Centred on
empathy, deepThecare,
Little Book of Jeong
vulnerability and kindness,
Jeong is the opposite of “love at
first sight” and it signifies a
feeling that deepens gradually.
WGSN's forecast reports are created by our global team of experts
Forecast lead team
Helen Palmer, Head of Materials &
Textiles
Sara Maggioni, Head of Womenswear
Nick Paget, Senior Strategist, Menswear
Erin Rechner, Head of Kidswear
Jane Collins, Senior Strategist, Footwear
and Accessories
Gemma Riberti, Head of Interiors
Yvonne Kostiak, Senior Strategist, Active
Hannah Watkins, Head of Prints &
Graphics
Isabel Wharton, Strategist, Prints &
Graphics
Graham Krag, Strategist, Prints &
Graphics
Charlotte Casey, Senior Strategist,
Knitwear
Julia Skliarova, Senior Strategist, Textiles
Olivia Barnes, Analyst, Materials,
Textiles & Knitwear
Contributors
Americas
Sofia Martellini, Strategist, Youth &
Womenswear
Isabela Bez, Content Consultant, LATAM
Rosalina Villanueva, Account
Development Manager, LATAM
Jesus Diaz, Spanish Localisation Editor
EMEA
Ana Cano, Associate Data Analyst
APAC
Kexin Zhang, Fashion Editor, China
Claire Lam, Account Manager, Asia
Africa
Mia Du Plessis, Account Manager Africa
and Benelux
Australia and New Zealand
Yianni Giovanoglou, Client Services
Specialist
The WGSN trend matrix 2024
Connecting the dots between our STEPIC foundational research, here are the six Future
Drivers, 12 Future Innovations, six Big Ideas and three Forecast trends that will shape the
world in 2024.
The WGSN macro forecast 2024
The timeline for WGSN's suite of 2024 trend reports, moving from business strategy to
consumer and product strategy.