Fancy weaves

Fancy weave and woven figure are made

by changing the interlacement pattern
between the design area and the
background.
Fancy yarn is also known as structual
design .
 Types of fancy yarns
1. Jacquard weave
2. Pile weave
3. Spot weave
4. Dobby weave
5. Leno weave
6. Swivel weave
7. Lapped weave
8. Double cloth weave
 1.Jacqurd weave
• The Jacquard weave, used to make allover figured
fabrics such as brocades, tapestries, and damasks, is
woven on a loom having a Jacquard attachment to
control individual warps. Fabrics of this type are
costly because of the time and skill involved in
making the Jacquard cards, preparing the loom to
produce a new pattern, and the slowness of the
weaving operation. The Jacquard weave usually
combines two or more basic weaves, with different
weaves used for the design and the background.
 2.Pile weave
• weaves produce fabrics with raised, dense surfaces. They
can be made by weaving extra warp yarns over wires,
producing loops that are cut as the wires are withdrawn;
by adjusting loom tension to produce loops that are
frequently left uncut; by using extra filling yarns to
produce floats that are cut after weaving; or by weaving
two cloths face to face, bindingthem together with an
extra set of warps that form the pile when the fabrics are
cut apart. Examples of woven pile fabrics include velvet,
plush, terry cloth, and many of the synthetic furs.
3.Spot weave
 4.Dobby weave
• Dobby weaves also produce allover figured
fabrics. They are made on looms having a
dobby attachment, with narrow strips of wood
instead of Jacquard cards. Dobby weaves are
limited to simple, small geometric figures,
with the design repeated frequently, and are
fairly inexpensive to produce.
 5.Leno weave
• Gauze weaving is an open weave made
by twisting adjacent warps together. It is usually made by
the leno, or doup, weaving process, in which a doup
attachment, a thin hairpin-like needle attached to two
healds, is used, and the adjacent warp yarns cross each
other between picks. Since the crossed warps firmly lock
each weft in place, gauze weaves are often used for
sheer fabrics made of smooth fine yarns. Although
gauze weaving, with its multitude of variations, has been
adapted to modern production, it is an ancient technique
6.Swivel weave
7.Lapped weave
 8.Double cloth weave
• Double cloth or double
weave (also doublecloth, double-
cloth, doubleweave) is a kind
of woven textile in which two or more sets
of warps and one or more sets of weft or
filling yarns are interconnected to form a two-
layered cloth. The movement of threads
between the layers allows complex patterns
and surface textures to be created.