Key Items Fashion:

Women’s Dresses A/W

24/25
Clever details and fresh directions for print and colour
enhance versatile silhouettes, for multi-occasion styling

Kim Cupido
05.31.23 - 6 minutes

Milan
 The column maxi
Why is it key? Emerging as a comfort-led trend
during the pandemic, knitted dresses have
evolved into a key staple that offers versatility of
wear and fit. Knitted styles are also forecasted
for growth as a Sustained Riser in the US and
UK. Column silhouettes provide a minimalist fit
base on which to add seasonal pattern, colour
and detail updates.
Design details: keep circularity principles in
mind from the outset, designing for longevity
@louisaballou Milan
with a focus on modularity. Build out the dress
as a series of modular panels that can transform
it from maxi to minidress, or from long to short
sleeved. Ensure buttons can be easily removed
at the end of the garment’s life by attaching with
dissolvable threads. Play into the #Clubhouse
feel of the silhouette: take inspiration from the
hyper-prep forecast trend, for print and colour
refreshes to #NewPrep stories. The bold stripes,
geos and brights give #MainCharacterEnergy
and differentiate from more vintage-inspired
pieces.

Anacê @kellyaugustine

1
 The asymmetric dress
Why is it key? #Asymmetric and wrap details
were a prominent feature for dresses on the
A/W 23/24 catwalks, with nearly a quarter of all
dresses shown having this detail (+12% YoY).
Asymmetric shapes add an understated flair to
silhouettes and are a key enhancement to
refresh minimalist styles.
Design details: take inspiration from the
flexible fluidity forecast story and use
handkerchief hems (+23% YoY on the A/W 23/24
Julye Han KkCo
catwalks) on soft volumes to create an irregular
draping effect that's flattering across a range of
body types. For shirt dresses, look to subversive
takes on contemporary office-ready attire,
including off-kilter button placements to appeal
to a younger, more directional market. When
accentuating the style through print, look to
#GraphicMonotone options for striking visual
appeal that’s also familiar enough to be
considered wardrobe-staple territory.

A. POTTS Yohei Ohno

2
 The ballet slip
Why is it key? For consumers prioritising value
and multifunctionality, whether for economic
considerations or to buy more consciously, the
slip dress offers versatile styling potential and
year-round wearability. The appeal of the slip is
reflected in the strength of its A/W 23/24
catwalks appearances, increasing +207% YoY
and accounting for 4% of the dresses category
across fashion weeks.
Design details: offer a refresh to the lace-
@emmanouela_4 Ming Ma
trimmed #BoudoirDressing slips of seasons past
by prioritising details that offer an
#ElegantSimplicity, such as layered sheers,
halternecks or asymmetric elements. The style
can also be used to update #DarkRomance
themes by way of the ballet sleaze story and its
gritty prints, moody florals, raw hemlines and a
palette of emo darks with bold reds. To
reinforce the #ModernOccasion aesthetic of the
slip dress, be sure to use high-shine silkies such
as FSC-certified viscose and lyocell, Tencel,
peace silk or cupro.

Buerlangma OpéraSPORT

3
 The #PrettyFeminine boho
dress
Why is it key? Taking advantage of renewed
interest in classic feminine looks, use print,
colour, trims and details, along with fluid
shapes and volume. Create a soft, floaty
aesthetic with retro #NuBoheme styling.
Design details: use long sleeves, high necks and
maxi lengths for extra winter coverage but also
as an enticement for consumers looking for
modest dress options. Use details with
@etro Ulla Johnson
heightened femininity, such as #Ruffles, lace
trim (+51% YoY on the A/W 23/24 catwalks) and
sheers. Create comfort and inclusivity with a
loose silhouette that can be belted to suit the
wearer’s taste and body shape. Belts can also be
tied into bows and #SoftTies. For prints, look to
stories that have a retro or vintage undertone.
Add a bohemian edge with opulent tapestry,
remixes of traditional prints or amplified craft.
Pastoral grunge will update #Cottagecore
stories with a grittier look and feel. Look too to
print stories such as reflected elegance and
quiet classics for #LowKeyLuxury.

Ulla Johnson Chono

4
 The coat dress
Why is it key? In line with #LowKeyLuxury and
new stealth wealth, the coat dress answers a
need for classic pared-down pieces that
prioritise simplicity of design, versatility of
wear and multi-seasonal longevity through
premium materials. With its long-term appeal,
potential to retain value for possible resale, and
desirability for cross-seasonal wear, consumers
are offered a sense of certainty in a challenging
economic climate.
@shinoizumiari @beautifulpeople_officialsite
Design details: material quality is a key priority,
so source BCI, GOTS or GRS cotton and other
natural fibres for their long-term durability. A
more relaxed silhouette that can be cinched or
belted allows for fits that would appeal to a
broader range of sizes and body types but also
allows the dress be worn as a layering item,
enticing more modest-minded consumers and
those looking for pieces with a versatility for
multiple styling needs. Use a palette of
#EnhancedNeutrals plus core shades with long-
term appeal such as Midnight Blue and Circular
Grey, which can easily be incorporated into an
existing wardrobe.
@amomento.co Viviers Studio

5
Range plan

Column maxi Asymmetric dress Ballet slip #PrettyFeminine boho Coat dress
dress

6
1 2 3
Action points
Use colour and pattern from broader
thematic trends to drive A/W refreshes to
commercial silhouettes
Add energetic touches with trending #Clubhouse,
#NewPrep and hyper-prep themes. Prioritise sporty
stripes and geometrics and preppy brights, especially
for knitted dresses such as the column maxi. Update the
slip dress through #DarkRomance themes such as the
ballet sleaze story along with gritty prints, moody
florals, layered sheers and emo darks with bold reds.
For a #PrettyFeminine update, add details such as ruffles
in varying sizes and placements, lace trim and sheer
fabrications
Invest in styles that provide versatility and
longevity
Buy into trends such as #ElegantSimplicity and
#NotSoClassic to update classic wardrobe essentials
such as shirt and sweater dresses, through asymmetric
details, tonal prints and tactile surfaces as well as soft
volumes that drape or adjust to suit and flatter the
wearer. Modular elements will allow for personal styling
and season-related modifications. Irregular and off-
kilter button or tie features will add a directional feel
and tie into forecast themes such as untraditional
tailoring
Imbue circularity into the design and
sourcing process
Keep circular principles in mind when designing and
sourcing. Durability and versatility of wear will increase
a garment’s lifespan and resale value. #Monomaterial
designs, details and trims will allow for easier recycling
at the end of a style’s life. For modular designs, use like-
for-like fabric compositions across colour and print
variations to simplify recycling processes. Similarly, use
easily removable trim elements such as unscrewable
hardware and dissolvable thread when adding details