Understanding

MENSWEAR

Aakansha Menon, Abhinov .A, Anubabh Das, Arunim Srivastava, Ginu

George, Harikrishnan K.S, Nisha Topno ,Rishu Kumari, Rupal Sanghavi,
Sushmita K, Umang Sharma
INSPIRATION/CONCEPTS
• 1st emergence of the Suit was from the Prince of wales Edward
VII
Prince Edward was the first person to have worn the suit as a
professional attire. It had bold detailing and was loose or baggy
fitted. It was more towards the informal look which he carried.

• Beau Brummel was the first person who had influenced the
designing of men's fashion to the greatest extent.
• The influence of having tailored suits that fits the body well and
the use of high quality fabrics for menswear was from his
influence.

• The use of subtle features and detailing in menswear was also

due to the influence of Brummel.

• Semi formal clothing was inspired from the Prince of Wales

Edward VIII
• Previously menswear was made based on the utility of the
garment as the influence to the design.

• Present day menswear inspirations are based on different

mixtures and a wide variety of influences based on the
environment in which a man would be in and also the elements
from his everyday life but also keeping in mind the subtle
nature of the design and the detailing

• The main themes for inspiration are

• NATURE, SOCIETY/TRAVELL, ART AND

CULTURE, HISTORY, TECHNOLOGY ,
ARCHITECTURE.
 COLORS
Color in design is very subjective. What evokes one
reaction in one person may evoke a very different
reaction in somone else.
Sometimes this is due to personal preference, and other
times due to cultural background.
Color theory is a science in itself. Studying how colors
affect different people, either individually or as a group,
is something some people build their careers on.
Something as simple as changing the exact hue or
saturation of a color can evoke a completely different
feeling
. Cultural differences mean that something that’s happy
and uplifting in one country can be depressing in
another.
MONOCHROMATIC
Monochromatic color schemes are made up of different tones,
shades and tints within a specific hue.

ANALOGOUS
Analogous schemes are created by using three colors that are
next to each other .

COMPLEMENTARY
Complementary schemes are created by combining colors from
opposite sides of the color wheel.

SPLIT COMPLEMENTARY
In this scheme, instead of using colors that are opposites, you use
colors on either side of the hue opposite your base hue.

TRIADIC LINK
Triadic schemes are made up of hues equally spaced around the
12-spoke color wheel. This is one of the more diverse color
schemes.
USING PHOTOS FOR COLOR SCHEMES

One of th eways to create a color scheme is to use a photograph. There are automated
tools online that can do this automatically for you Sometimes this can result in finding
color schemes that you might not have thought of on your own.
 COLOR TRENDS

1. Pink

Still hung up on pink supposedly being for

girls? Then consider this: up until the end
of the 19th century pink was – in the
Western world – actually thought of as a
masculine hue. Connotations of girlishness
gradually came in the early 20th century as
marketers repositioned pink as a feminine
colour.
Whether dusty and soft or bold and bright,
pink pairs well with plenty of colours you
probably already have in your wardrobe –
including brown, beige, blue, white and
darker shades of green, such as olive.
2. Brown
Although this hue tends to remind us of the
less than savory fashions of the 1970s,
attitudes are changing thanks to designers
such as Tom Ford, J.W. Anderson and Miuccia
Prada, all of whom are rebranding brown.
The perfect partner to this classic neutral will
always be blue; the combination gives blue
depth, while the brown appears richer (see
Prada’s spring/summer 2015 denim- and
leather-filled collection for an idea of what
we mean). Additional complementary colors
include earthy hues such as burnt orange,
green, khaki, mustard and beige.
Although there’s a shade of brown that will
work well with pretty much every skin tone,
those of you with Asian or African skin will
want to avoid hues that are too close in color
to your complexion, as it can make it appear
dull and faded.
3. Green

moss or khaki hues, there are so many other green

tones that can be introduced to your wardrobe and
help take your outfits to the next level.
No matter what shade you opt for, this masculine
colour always looks best paired with blue, white and
grey, while darker military variants complement
similarly earthy hues such as brown and mustard
wonderfully.
A short-sleeved shirt or pair of chino shorts in mint
green is ideal for crafting Riviera-inspired ensembles
during the warmer months, while bright green details
and accessories (socks, lightweight scarves, pocket
squares, etc.) will add a striking element to an
otherwise pared-back look.
Deeper variants like olive, avocado and hunter green
are the most versatile though, with corduroy
trousers, military-inspired blazers, bomber jackets
and boots in these hues being particularly
appropriate for autumn/winter.
An additional benefit of green is that it works with
every skin tone, provided you take the time to find
the shade that complements your complexion the
best.
Menswear Trends
1. M o n o c h r o m e

• one of the main trends of this season is all black , all white
or a mix of both.
• ASOS, River Island, Next and AllSaints all put their own
distinctive spin on monochrome in their SS15 lookbooks,
ranging from beach-ready white-on-white ensembles to
edgier, rock-infused looks with a healthy dose of attitude.
• All-black outfits, despite their connotations of adolescent
goths for some, will always look classic, while all-white
getups are ideal if you want something summer-appropriate
that strikes the balance between subtle and statement-
making.
• Key to both, though, is mixing up textures As for black and
white outfits, choose one of the two as the dominant hue –
for example, the colour of your suit or your jacket and
trousers – and then add complementary surrounding pieces
in the other colour, such as a vest, T-shirt, short-sleeved
shirt or pair of shoes.
2. P r i n t e d S h o r t – S l e e v e 3. L I g h t W a s h J e a n s
Shirts
With denim and the nineties key trends for
2015, it should come as no surprise that light
wash jeans are back on the menswear agenda
this summer.
Perfectly suited to warm-weather dressing,
jeans in mid to light blue shades or bleached
out washes offer something different to
traditional black or indigo styles, and can hugely
5. T h e S t r I p e d B l a z e r

• Showcased in several SS15 collections

• Guaranteed to give your tailoring
collection a summer-ready lift, a striped
blazer will serve you well for a slew of
different occasions, from formal garden
parties to sun holidays abroad.
 3. U t i l i t y d e t a I i I n g

. Extra large Pockets

Zippers
 Sharp and boxy volumes
and placed pockets provide
a chic geometric vibe to the
shirting

White embroidered shirts

Masculine and bringing
Bottoms- summer trouser with stylish sophistication
generous pleats

The woven t-shirt has replaced the

Casual tee for a chic tee inspiration.
 Relaxed fit - easy to wear blazers in
linen blends

Suits- boxy volume, cropped length

& sleek details
 The epitome of minimalist style,
the low-top white trainer. Off-duty wardrobe
staple since the days of Newman, Dean and McQueen

Get Textural
Bold statement uppers and
unusual soles, the very fabric of trainers themselves
is changing. With numerous brands now offering
woven styles or exotic fabrications,.
The vacation suitcase
 1945-60
• Soldiers – government jobs
• More of suits.
• Blue or grey chalk stripes.
• Charcoal gray was the usual color.
• In coats the most popular colors were bark
• tan-navy blue Rust colors.
• In casual attire it was burgundy, hunter
green, navy blue, tans shades.
• apart from buttons ,zippers and buffalo plaid
in some jackets no other fancy trims were
seen during this period.
 1970’s

• Fashion was fairly

Consistant.
• Plaid , houndstooth
And checks were
popular in black and white- indigo.
• Brighter colors were seen in casual wear
• Suits in white became popular.
• Fur and leather detailing were seen in many
coats.
• Disco influenced during this period .
 Early 1980’s
• Athletic clothes
were more
popular with
subdued colours .
• Popular colours-
black, white,
forest green,
indigo, burgundy
and shades of
brown, tan and
orange.
• The general
public preferred
simple basic
colors.
• Punk influence – a lot of black and
white continued.
• Metallic trims were popular.
• Stripes were seen a lot on casual wear
• Unisex colors- turquoise ,teal, red, neon
yellow and purple.
 90’s and now
• Experimentation
• More of prints
• Yellow , light green,
Mauve ,black and white
Popular in tee-shirts.
Pastels were a trend.
• Tan , rust and navy blue
Seen in trousers(bottoms).
• Lately a lot of indigo and
White combinations are seen.
 INNOVATION IN MEN’S WEAR FASHION

1100-1190
• Full, ground length decorated with embroidery
bands.

Men used to wear:

• Robe- T-shaped with ground length flared skirts,
pulled up high on one side and controlled by the
belt and sleeves are cut very long to extend over
the hands

• Under tunic - Ground length with long ruckled

sleeves to wrist.

• Mantle – A semi circular, ground length, fasten

on right shoulder and edged with pattern band

• Hosen- Poorly fitting long stockings held up by

cords attached to the inner belt
1150

Bliaut: Development of the tunic with body part and

skirts separated by a waist seam. The skirts, longer at back
than in front, are pleated to the low position waistline.
Sleeves are cut in one with body.
1300 EDWARD I

•Under tunic- Knee length lined throughout and

buttoned down to the center front.

•Cyclas- sleeveless tunic, low neck with the sides left

open to the hips where they are either buttoned and
seen through the hem.

•Hosen- Improvement in cut and fit due to the length

exposed by the short tunic.

•Guard-corps- A flared, below knee length, top

garment with hood attached. It falls straight from the
shoulder and is lined throughout. The very full pleated
sleeves are cut with a second and alternative opening
for the hands. The guard-corps frequently replaces the
cloak.
1500 HENRY Vll

• The doublet- Square necked ,

laced up the CF with loose
fitted sleeves, the skirts set in
deep pleats.
1560 ELIZABETH I

• A sober and dignified suit of clothes with

doublet, cloaks and trunk hose often of
matching fabric and decoration.

• Jerkin- usually slashed through its length

to reveal the padded inner lining

• Trunk hose- hooked to the waistline of

the doublet , terminate at mid thigh
1720 GEORGE I
• Coat and the waistcoat- looser in
cut and absence of heavy stuffing.

• Waistcoat- shorter in length than

the coat, and left unbuttoned to
the waist. Two flapped pockets are
placed on either side of the skirt
fronts.

• Breeches- fit more closely to the

shape of the leg, they are buckled
and buttoned below the knee.

• Coats, stockings were also worn.

1805

• Frock coat- Double breasted and

usually worn buttoned. It is cut to
reveal the waist coat
and expanse of the shirt front.

•Waist coat- Single breasted with the

steeped stand collar and lapels that
stands away from
the chest.

•Pantaloons- Similar cut to breeches,

they extend to the ankles where side
seams are open.

•Stockings-usually white
1853 VICTORIA

• Riding coat- shorter in length than the

frock coat

• Waist coat- longer at the waist and cut

to form a triangular notch at the center
front waist line

• Trousers- Pegged trousers wide at the

hips and close fittings at the ankle. The
trouser are decorated with broad stripe
on the outer seams.
1880 VICTORIA

Three piece lounge suits became very popular.

• Lounge suits- the single breasted coat, cut

fairly straight wit little indication of waisting ,
four buttoned , the collars and lapels are
narrow. Pockets are positioned on either hip
and on the left breast.
1900 VICTORIA

Proportions and subtle changes in

style occur yearly.

•Full evening garments- Tail coat,

white waist coat, trousers
Coats were never buttoned up, the
lapels are faced with silk, the tails fit
close to the sides of the figure. The
waistcoat were single breasted, cut
very low in front with curved lapels,
is sometimes made in satin and
brocades with buttons of Jade, Lapis
Lazuli etc.
EDWARD VII – [1901-10]

During this era , men wore:

• Double breasted frock coats
•Velvet covered buttons
•Striped trousers with creases
•Cut away jackets
•Stiff collars
•Bow tie
•Jackets and coats had waist
seam
•Pocket flaps and velvet cuffs
GEORGE V– 1910

•Blazers with single button fastening

•Brass buttons
•Flannel trousers
•White waistcoats
•Evening tad suits with cut away jackets
•Narrow trousers without turn ups
1910 GEORGE V

Men wore:
•High buttons fastening in jackets
•Sloping pockets
•Double breasted suit
•Bold check
•Deep cuffs
•Shaping seams
•Country suit
•Wide trousers with turn-ups
•Lounge suit
•Wide padded shoulders
•Slanted flap pockets

Paletot coat- below knee length with close

fitting back and straight hanging fronts.
Front fly fastening.

Trousers- Ankle length when worn with turn

ups
1920 GEORGE V

Double breasted lounge suits worn for

formal wear, single breasted for the
countryside.

Top coat- well below knee in length ,

loose fitting with raglan or fitted
sleeves. Double or single breasted , with
white collar and reverse
1930 GEORGE V

•V-neck pull over

•Plus – fours to below knee
•Raglan sleeves
•Deep patch pockets
•Black evening suits
•Long double breasted raincoats

•Trousers are no longer sew

monstrously wide at the hems.
Ready made clothes, of questionable
fits, flood the market.

•Sports jacket- Mean and narrow in

cut, tightly fitted waisted with broad
lapels.

•Pullover- Knitted , plain or Fair Isle

prints
 Men started wearing ‘dust coats’.
Coats had ear flaps as well.

Coats and jackets Casual men’s golf

with lapels wear
 TEDDY BOYS, LEATHER BOYS AND DANDY FASHION
[1940-1960]

The style became famous among youth and

teenagers and arouse great opposition.
Thus, they were known , remained firmly jackets
were long and single breasted , narrow
Lapels reaching the chest. Colors were mostly blues,
reds and black while the collars, the
Four front pockets and sleeves were edge stitched
in black velvet cloth.

Brocaded waist coats were also worn with

contrasting colors.

Trousers worn were light colored ankle length to

reveal the bright colored socks.

TEDDY BOYS
ELIZABETH II - [1952-56]

•Piped pockets
•Satin striped trousers
•Pleated shirt
•Long shawl collars
•Welt pockets
•Hood in the long jackets
•Raglan sleeves
•Narrow trousers with turn ups

ELIZABETH II – [1970-75]

•Polo neck jumper

•High yoke
•Suede jacket
•Side zip fastening on shoulders
•Top stitched edges
•Flared trousers
•Big patch pockets
•Leather jackets
LEATHER BOYS
PIN STRIPES AND BLACK
LEATHER
1990

In 1990s Flannel became popular and lasted

through most of the decades unlike the fitted
western shirts of the 70s which fastened the
pearl snaps, the flannel shirts of 1990s were
padded and loose fitting for optimum
warmth.

Preppy clothing was popular in US, where

wealthy young men wore Khaki slacks, navy
blue blazers and canvas sports shoes.

In 1990s the bridge to the 21st century brings

great change with the loose baggy silhouette
of the early 1990s leading to slimmer suit
profile. Business casual enters the lexicon.
21st century

In the 2000s, men started dressing up again, and the

current era of sartorial individuality via colors,
patterns or style commences.

Men wore-
•Khaki slacks
•Boot cut jeans
•Track suits
•Light colored polo shirts
•White Adidas or Nike trainers
•Camp shirts
•Oxford shoes etc
 M A R K E T S E G ME N T A T I O N

FORMAL WEAR
• Formal wear is the general
term for clothing suitable for
formal events and occasions.
Popular formal wear brands
are
• Van heusen
• Arrow
• Peter England
• Park Avenue
• Raymonds etc
 Casual wear

Casual is the dress

code that emphasizes
comfort and personal
expression over
presentation, formality
and conformity. It
includes a very wide
variety of apparels.
 Denim wear

Denim is an iconic
material which never
goes out of style. It is
always preferred
because of its comfort
and durability. Today we
have brands which caters
only denim apparels.
Most popular denim brands are
Diesel
Lee
Levis
Wrangler
Calvin klein etc
Semi formals
Semiformal are clothing which comes in
between formal wear and casual wear
• Most popular semi formal brands
are
• Allen Solly
• Scullers
• Park Avenue
• Color plus etc.
 Street wear

• Jack and jones

• Pepe jeans
• diesel
 ETHNIC WEAR

• Ethnic wear is referred to

clothing which is
traditional and worn on
occasions like festivals,
family functions and
religious places
• Popular ethnic wear
brands are
• Fabindia
• Manyavar
• Goodearth etc.
 ACTIVE WEAR
• Active wear refers to
functional clothing
meant for activities like
sports ,workouts etc.
• Popular active wear
brands are
• Puma
• Adiddas
• Reebok
• Nike
• Decathlon etc.
 Leisure wear

• Leisure wear refers to a

category of clothing for
holidays and vacation.
• Popular brands are
• Zara men
• Quicksilver
• Billabong etc.
 B O D Y T Y P ES
• Relationship of human body shape to body size

• Determining factor
• - Height
• - Weight
• - Lower – Upper body ratio
• - Individual body parts weights like shoulders , chest , abdomen etc.

• Compared to women’s body, men have

• - Wider shoulders
• - Narrow hips
• - Lower position of waist
• - Higher position of knees
•Form of muscle and bone is more prominent because men
typically have less fat than women.

• Body Fat - more in upper torso, less in lower torso

• - more in abdomen and less hips

• Body types vary according to race and ethnicity.

•S M L XL are the standard way of sizing ( which is

according to height )
 TYPES

Ectomorph

•Small “delicate” frame and bone structure

•Classic “hardgainer”
•Flat chest
•Small shoulders
•Thin
•Lean muscle mass
•Finds it hard to gain weight
•Fast metabolism
Mesomorph

•Athletic
•Generally hard body
•Well defined muscles
•Rectangular shaped body
•Strong
•Gains muscle easily
•Gains fat more easily than ectomorphs
Endomorph

•Soft and round body

•Gains muscle and fat very easily
•Is generally short
•"Stocky" build
•Round physique
•Finds it hard to lose fat
•Slow metabolism
•Muscles not so well defined
HOW TO
MEASURE?
 FITS IN MENSWEAR
• Fits in menswear have varied greatly over time.
• Regency or early 19th century : tight fitting pants called breeches were
work, which came upto the knee.
• Late 19h century: A well fitted suit called the tuxedo became popular
• Edwardian era or early 1900s: he sack suit which is fitted a shoulders but
otherwise unfitted, loose and has no darts was popular.
• 1920s – 1940s: 1920s men began
wearing wide, straight-legged
trousers with their suits. These
trousers normally measured 23 inches
around the cuff. Younger men often
wore even wider-legged trousers
which were known as "Oxford bags.“
rousers began to be worn creased and
ere worn very high-waisted
throughout the 1920s and this fashion
remained in vogue until the 1940s.
• Single-breasted suits were in style
throughout the 1920s and the double-
breasted suit was mainly worn by
older more conservative men.
• In 1935, a complete change in style
occurred. Loose fitting coats were
introduced, trousers began to be
tapered at the bottom and suit coats
began to have tapered arms.
• Suit coats were also cut as straight as possible without any
indication of a waistline. Cloth rationing changed styles
significantly, contributing to a large reduction in the
popularity of many cuts, such as the double-breasted suit.
• In the 1960s-70s, the tight three-piece suit was equated with
the disco culture. Men wore bell-bottomed denims and
trousers.
• In 1980s jackets grew longer and were loosely fitted with
straight to loose cut trousers.
• Also subcultures such as punk and metal brought in tight
fitting denims and latex trousers into fashion.
• 1990s- 2000s baggy fits came into fashion
with the grunge and hip-hop subculture.
Contemporary Menswear fits include:
Slim fit, classic fit, modern fit, loose fit,
body fit
Slim fit : - thin and slender
Slimming silhouette
Slim waistline
Less ease

Classic fit
Always in fashion
Free from influence of fashion trends
Emphasis on function rather than
features
2” inches more than slim fit
Modern fit
Loose fit

Body fit
 GARMENT MATERIALS

• 11th century- wool, linen, fur.

• 12th century- wool, linen, silk, fur.
• 13th century- linen, wool, fur.
• 14th century-wool, silk, woven brocade, fur.
• 15th century-wool, linen, hemp, fur.
• 16th century-linen, silk, velvet, leather, lace, wool.
• 17th century-linen, wool, velvet, lace.
• 18th century-linen, silk, wool, twill cotton.
• 19th century
• Formal :linen, cotton, wool, polyester.
• casual : denim(1871), linen, khakhi cotton, polo fabric, polyester-
leather, Seersucker
• Sporty: spandex mix fabric, cotton, rib.

linen polyester polo

denim

seersucker
spandex rib leather
• 20th century –till date
• FORMAL: corduroy, polyester, linen, poly cotton.
• CASUAL: polo, denim, stretchable denim, leather, canvas, knit.
• SPORTS: polyester mix knit, mesh, spandex, terry, peaky fabric.

canvas corduroy terry

mesh
• YEAR 2015

Casual wear - Denim, Viscose Crepe, Cotton

Party wear - Linen, Silk, Velvet
Comfort wear - Linen, Knits, Cotton, Cotton blends
Sports wear - Lycra, Sports Mesh, Knits, Polyesters, Spandex
Formal wear - Corduroy, Velvet, Silks, Satin, Rayon, Wool, Herringbone,
Hounds tooth