Small Changes

Evolution of the men’s suit in the twentieth century

Years 1901-2000

Sophia Shute
1901
• Frock suits were just coming out of fashion from the previous years
and three-piece suits, also commonly known as sack suits were
becoming more and more popular among Western businessmen.
Wool was a common fabric and the seasonal option come
summertime, seersucker. The colors were always dark and muted,
ranging from dark navy, grey, green, ivory, and brown. The top left
picture is from September 8th, 1903. These men were staying at the
Imperial Hotel, The Mall, Waterford. Traditionally, coats were
buttoned high on the chest, with four buttons and short collars and
lapels. However, in this picture the men have high, long collars on
their shirt. Trousers were loosely fitted and made to match their
waistcoats. The suit was almost never complete without the
complimentary bowler hat to accessorize.

• The bottom left picture is from a 1906 Sears Catalog of Sack and
Frock Suits. The style shown is of a double-breasted suit, buttoned
up high. The man on the far left donned a striped suit, which was
not an uncommon design. They wore ties and bowties, and it seems
the lapel was transitioning from slim to a wider design.
1910’s
• In the 1910’s, casual wear turned to lounge suits, as they were
the least formal suits to wear. The top right picture is from the
The Tailor and Cutter Fashions, 1913, The Met, Costume
Institute Fashion Plates. The style moved to three buttons on
the coat instead of the four from its previous years, and larger
collars and lapels. The neckline moved down to mid chest
from sitting high up. Pockets on the suit coats were usually
simple designs of a slit or a flap pocket. The trousers that were
once loosely fitted were baggy at the hips and slim around the
ankles. The pants also had more pleats and creases, and cuffed
ankles.
• The bottom right picture is from the Los Angeles County
Museum of Art exhibit titled "Fashioning Fashion: 1700 -
1915“. It has the tall collar, the staple three buttons on the
coat, a wide lapel, and a ticket pocket on the outside of the
coat. The trousers have the slim definition down to the newly
cuffed ankles.
1920’s
• The roaring twenties were influenced heavily by jazz and
wealth, personal styles allowed more playful and
extravagant designs to come more into focus. This top
right picture is from the Fashion Plate, 1920-1939. New
York: Costume Institute Fashion Plates. It was more
allowable to wear more colors and pinstripes on tweeds
and flannels. This was a big change for the decade in
trousers: there was the oxford bags and the plus fours.
Oxford bags were wide legged trousers and colorful in
flannel. The plus fours were short legged trousers that
gathered at the knee.
• Jazz suits like the ones pictured on the left hand side
were narrow fitted in the first few years and the last few
years of the 20’s had moved to wider fitted suits. New
aspects were cinching at the high waist with half belts on
the suits emerged from militant uniforms but still carried
a double breasted, and three button fashion. Colors have
stayed masculine since the 1910’s with navy blues, greys
and browns. Wide lapels have also stayed in fashion.
1930’s
• Hollywood movies influenced
men's suits and ushered in a
new decade of simplicity:
abandoning the now frivolous
but “traditional” pieces like
formal dress boots, stiff
collars, waistcoats and vests,
and white ties. Tuxedos,
especially white ones in
summer, became popular.
Plus fours and wide trouser
legs were still common.
Jackets had wide padded
shoulders, wide lapels, and
sometimes even with half
belts. Ties also had the same
pattern of width.
1940’s
• World War II impacted men's fashion by rationing and
utility clothing. Utility suits were created for men due
to the fact they had to work with less material for
clothing. If the war prevented purchasing new suits,
many men reused suits they already owned keeping
older styles in rotation. Demob suits, in the lefthand
picture, were a direct result from the WWII
rationings. Men were issued these suits leaving the
army and because of the strict regulations and
shortages on material, Demob suits were mass
produced, ill-fitting, and brown or grey.
• Zoot suits like the one pictured on the right-hand side
were for the minority working class. It had the same
wide fit as from the 1930’s with an oversized jacket, a
wide tie and wide trousers that were brought in at the
ankles.
• Pinstripes suits, plaid, windowpane, and darker colors
have remained a constant style in suits over time.
1950’s
• One of the biggest changes for the
50’s was the switch to narrow ties,
and the pops of color in everyday
wear. The overall fit of the suits
were still baggy as we have seen the
past few decades, from the jackets
to the trousers.
• Working men also wore more
conservative suits that were
downplayed and almost basic
looking. A narrow-shouldered sack
suit, fitting loose at the waist, and a
long jacket, was becoming the
choice for comfort and casual.
1960’s
• Business suits in the 60’s reverted back to
toned down colors of grey, black, navy
blue. It had a sack fit, with a low
waistband, 2 breasted, 2 buttoned jackets.
Lapels were growing longer and simmer.
• This decade was also in a transition from
the influence of the Beatles and other
rock stars. Young men were wearing
bolder suits that were patterned and
brightly striped. Colors were being mixed
into fashion and wide ties were once
again resurfacing.
1970’s
• The Peacock Revolution opened
the doors for men to wear even
brighter, bolder styles. It seems like
there was no limit to what type of
colors, patterns, or fabrics used for
suits. Denim, velvet and plaid suits
weren’t out of the ordinary. and
men were wearing tighter clothes.
Suits styles had slim fitting jackets,
flared trousers, and worn with
turtlenecks. Wide lapels were being
revisited from the 50’s.
1980’s
• Power dressing was really
popular in the 80’s which
influenced the men’s “Power
Suit”. It was mainly single-
breasted suit jackets, with
shoulder pads, wide lapels,
and brightly colored wide ties.
Colors and patterns were still
popular, pinstripe was among
the most common but there
was also plaids, houndstooth,
and herringbone.
1990’s
• 90’s suits were still fitted loose.
Pictured is Jalen Rose from the NBA
on the left, this was the overall style
of suits everyone was wearing.
Jackets had the long, oversized fit.
They had a deep V opening, wide
lapels, and shoulder pads were very
popular. There were options still for
double or sing breasted jackets. Wide
ties were still popular too. Trousers
had pleats and were wide from the
waist to the ankles.
2000’s
• This decade for men’s suits
brought the slim fit back
into style. It has a
minimalist approach
contrary to the 90’s baggy
style. The slim suits have
the tailored look of
narrowing in at the waist,
the deep V opening on the
jacket with narrow lapels,
a skinny tie and natural
shoulders.
Sources
• https://www.gq.com/gallery/the-gq-history-of-the-suit-by-decade
• https://www.encyclopedia.com/fashion/encyclopedias-almanacs-
transcripts-and-maps/sack-suit
• http://www.walternelson.com/dr/node/198
• https://vintagedancer.com
• https://www.blue17.co.uk/vintage-blog/1940s-mens-fashion/