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Product Forecast

Denim Fabric, Wash &


Finish Forecast A/W 23/24:
NatureVerse
NatureVerse explores synergies between the organic and
the technological, resulting in offbeat and otherworldly
denim directions, where the lines are blurred between
digital and physical aesthetics

Sam Trotman
01.18.22 · 7 minutes

Marques Almeida
NatureVerse: introduction
Imagining new worlds, new aesthetics and new solutions through the immersive
powers of nature and technology.

The digital world might seem far removed from nature, but could it be the key to
helping us imagine and build a better, more regenerative world? NatureVerse
explores the beautiful and surprising symbiosis between the technological and the
organic.
In recent years, the impact of climate change has become stark in its immediacy, and
it is provoking urgent, bold changes. By 2024, multi-species thinking – which puts all
of nature, not just humans, at the centre of design – will move to the mainstream, and
protopias (a more pragmatic aspiration than utopias, rooted in incremental steps
towards progress) will be used to develop achievable solutions to overwhelming
problems, harnessing the combined powers of nature and technology, including
biotechnology and synthetic biology.
On the flipside, the metaverse will see the virtual world move beyond shopping and
socialising to offer education, wellness, creativity and awe-inspiring experiences.
With this new mind-expanding realm will come new mind-expanding ideas about
what is possible, what is desirable, and what is necessary to make the world safer,
fairer, more sustainable and more inclusive for all.
In this trend, the immersive qualities of both nature and technology will influence
new otherworldly aesthetics, where dreamy digital worlds, twilight landscapes,
bioluminescent ocean life and barren Mars-like landscapes will all provide
Diesel
inspiration for exciting new designs.
Key words : climate-adaptive, antimicrobial, tidal pattern, swampy camouflage, laser
finishing, eco acid, distressed finish, extraterrestrial texture

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Methodolog y
WGSNʼs forecasts are guided by our STEPIC methodology, which analyses changes in
society, technology, the environment, politics, industry and creativity. These six
pillars inform the themes covered in our three annual macro forecasts (Future
Drivers, Future Innovations and Big Ideas), which are then filtered down to form the
three seasonal trends for our category-specific forecasts.
Here is how NatureVers e relates to our broader forecas t themes for 2024:

STEPIC p illars : Technology, Environment


Future Dr ivers 2024: The Everything Net, Planet Provocation
Future Innovations 2024: Two-Faced Tech, Itʼs All Real, Multi-Species Thinking,
Designing Protopias
Big Ideas 2024 (coming Januar y 2022): Fluid States, Provoking Protopias

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Sea skins
The concep t: evolve part season denim with
animal skins that reference obscure species,
informing a greater awareness of the beauty in
nature.
Fibre & yar n: focus on GOTS-certified cotton,
BCI, Fair Trade or recycled cottons. Combine
these with Lurex weaves to add tactile and
tonal contrast.
Cons tr uction & finish: add a sensorial tactility
to animal skins by opting for jacquard weaves
Ulla Johnson Outside Denim instead of discharge prints, or alternatively,
combine both for a dynamic visual effect.
Achieve 3D blistered textures that emulate
scales through technical raised jacquards, and
use tactile deflected weaves, laser-cut, fringed
and crushed fabrics to reference sub-aquatic
forms. Bio-based, mechanical, or recycled
stretch adds ease of movement. Take
inspiration from the extraordinary pieces in
Glenn Martens' Diesel collection.

@496fabriclab Diesel @balenciaga

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Astro dust
The concep t: last season's Desert Rider
theme takes a cosmic direction, with surfaces
hinting at the link between space exploration
and earth preservation.
Fibre & yar n: GOTS, BCI, organic and Fair
Trade cotton, hemp and linen underpins
relaxed materials.
Cons tr uction & finish: apply subtle matte
texture via environmentally friendly coatings
and flocked finishes, bringing a new dimension
@marni Devin Lunsford to denim.
Dusty Mars terrains and ancient deserts inspire
oxidised colours and geological textures.
Create pigmented tones using bio-based dyes
like food waste, mineral and vegetal dyes, and
eco-laundries for mottled finishes.

PG Denim @yproject_of cial SHOOP

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Tidal waves
The concep t: the controversy surrounding the
denim industry's thirsty processes and
concerns with water conservation inspire a
new approach to wash.
Fibre & yar n: use certified GOTS cotton
alongside post- and pre-consumer recycled
cotton, blended with innovations such as Roica
V550 for Candiani, Repreve, and Lycra's
EcoMade fibre. Recycled ocean-waste
polyester reinforces an eco direction.
Indigo Textile The Leo Is All in the Mind Cons tr uction & finish: the awe at the power of
water inspires natural marbling with an
elemental, watery update. Achieve these
swirling effects via low-impact techniques like
laser, ozone and organic enzyme. Opt for
denim fabrics engineered to complement
these technologies. Alternatively, look to
jacquards or digital prints that eliminate the
wash process altogether.

@ganni Denim Azgard Fendi

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Beyond denim
The concep t: catering to the demands of
modern lifestyles, mills are going beyond
denim with trompe l'oeil effects that transition
between work and leisure.
Fibre & yar n: source GOTS organic or GRS
recycled cotton, cellulosics such as lyocell,
and FSC-certified viscose.
Cons tr uction & finish: demand for comfort is
at an all time high, yet the desire for authentic-
look denim has spurred mills to develop
@ourlegacy @calvinklein articles that have all the properties of denim,
combined with a silk-like touch. ISKO evolves
its patented Future Face knit weave with
Soorty's low-impact washes, while its new
Twill FF technology offers the comfort of a knit
coupled with a strong denim look. Brands like
Diesel are already using these fabrics in the
market with great effect. Our Legacy continues
its exploration of photoreal denim prints,
emulating vintage fade patterns.

Isko @iskodenim Diesel

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Natural impressions
The concep t: last season's Laundry Lines
story takes on an even more graphic direction
with extreme hi-lo vintage finishes.
Fibre & yar n: keep fibre natural with GOTS-
certified, BCI and GRS-certified cotton, blended
with cottonised hemp or post-industrial or
post-consumer recycled cotton.
Cons tr uction & finish: take on an exaggerated
approach to vintage fades with extreme
creases and laundry lines that emulate garish
@ llesapapa @biancasaunders_ looks of 2000s-era denim. Opt for RFD bases
and apply digital prints that emulate the look
of scanned vintage jeans. Achieve these looks
on denim using low-impact laundry techniques
such as laser, organic enzyme and ozone, which
promote low water and energy use. We love
Korean designer Jiyong Kim, who naturally
fades velour using sunlight, and British
designer Bianca Saunders who continues her
partnership with ISKO.

Kassim Denim @24kgoldn @biancasaunders_

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Eroded texture
The concep t: denim distressing takes on a
more engineered form, with uniform frays
adding a textural update to all-over pattern.
Fibre & yar n: yarns stay true to heritage
narratives. Use responsibly sourced GOTS and
BCI cotton. Aid end-of-life recyclability by
avoiding natural-and-synthetic fibre mixes.
Cons tr uction & finish: create the illusion of
distressed surfaces with engineered jacquards,
seen at experts like Taiwanese denim mill 496
@496fabriclab @jadedldn Fabric Lab, while ISKO's innovative Scratch &
Jean fabric offers customisable options. We
love the recent catwalk collection from C+plus
Series, with laser-etched distressing, while
Denem Jeans uses needlepunch techniques to
create fuzzy all-over texture.

ISKO Denem Jeans C+plus Series

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Shadow sartorials
The concep t: nocturnal influences and the
obsession with all-black styling informs this
dark fabric direction.
Fibre & yar n: smooth calendered BCI and
GOTS-certified organic cottons are key, as well
as FSC-certified cellulosic fibres and Lurex
metallic threads.
Cons tr uction & finish: give classic black-base
fabrics a new dimension through reflective and
high-shine fibres. Heliot Emil inspires with
@gallucks Marques Almeida iridescent its Liquid Metal Trousers, while
Marine Serre proves directional fashion looks
can be responsible with her signature moiré
recycled yarns made from plastic bottles.
Black denim with metallic we offers subtle
shine, as seen at Marques Almeida.

Moire print @marineserre_of cial Marques Almeida

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Body performance
The concep t: growing concerns around
hygiene and wellness inform a greater focus on
performance fabrics that provide antibacterial
qualities.
Fibre & yar n: anti-viral innovations such as
Polygiene can reduce viruses on textiles, while
antimicrobials can safeguard against bacteria-
causing odour, so that repeatedly worn denims
can stay fresh for longer.
Cons tr uction & finish: high compact stretch
Business of Fashion Naveena Denim fibres that speak to second-skin denims will
perform at home, in the office, or at the gym.
Explore ISKO's unique woven compression
technology, RHEACT, which increases blood
flow to energise the body. Cone, Calik and
Bossa offer self-cleaning and odour-crunching
technologies that promote fewer home
laundries. Soorty's Alexia fabric is mildew-
resistant and works as an insulator against UV
rays.

ISKO Prosperity Textile @everlane

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Swampy camou age
The concep t: the impact of the climate crisis
has unlocked a mindset of nature-first, multi-
species thinking, and adventurer camouflage
descends into the primordial swamp for a
murky, submerged update.
Fibre & yar n: source GRS recycled and bio-
based synthetics. Bio-based Dyneema adds
strength, while hemp adds a robust durability,
enhanced with recyclable and chemical-free
finishes and proofs.
Givenchy Jakob Kudsk Steensen Cons tr uction & finish: take a responsible
approach to high-contrast laundry by using
laser, ozone and low impact substances. Give
swampy green denim a mottled appearance
with eco-acid wash effects, # distorteddyes,
abstract jacquards, and algae-like distressing
and fringing. Givenchy's latest collection of
denim offers a unique take on these organic-
looking textures.

@496fabriclab @givenchyof cial @diesel

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Action points

Build hygiene protection and Take inspiration from the Let water inspire the transition Reimagine vintage denim style
climate adaptation into extremes in nature to provoke to low-impact dye and nish through a futuristic lens
materials new colour, wash and nish technologies

Evolve denim to cater to consumer Look to all corners of nature for Global warming, rising tides and the Think outside the box and embrace the
priorities around wellness and hygiene. inspiration, from the austere beauty of acknowledgement of denim's impact on growing number of digital technologies
Offer fabrics that provide protection in Mars-like deserts to the submerged the water cycle is prompting industry that emulate the look and feel or
multiple settings by blending climate swampiness of Atlantis, informing novel change. Make water preservation a vintage denim. Test trompe l'oeil
adaptation, breathability, ease of denim textures, wash effects, priority by switching to low-impact techniques like digital prints, technical
movement and comfort performance. decorative distressing texture and technologies. Optimise dye and laundry jacquards and laser finishes that not
Address health concerns with science- cosmic-inspired blacks. Source stages with a process that requires only bring a new visual dimension to
backed anti-viral fibres and self- innovative bio-based materials that fewer chemicals, and less water and denim, but also offer a way to eliminate
cleaning properties marry science and nature, and explore energy unnecessary laundry stages
where natural materials can rival
synthetics in performance

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WGSN’s forecast reports are created by our global team of experts
Mater ials forecas ting team
Helen Palmer, Head of Materials and Textiles
Gemma Riberti, Head of Interiors
Jenny Clark, Head of Colour
Reiko Morrison, Head of CMF, Consumer Tech
Olivia Barnes, Strategist, Materials and Knit
Charlotte Casey, Senior Strategist, Knit
Jane Collins, Senior Strategist, Footwear and Accessories
Charlotte Browning, Strategist, Active

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The WGSN trend matrix 2024
Connecting the dots between our STEPIC foundational research, the six Future Drivers, 12
Future Innovations, six Big Ideas and three Forecast trends that will shape the world in
2024

STEPIC Future Drivers Future Innovations Big Ideas Forecasts

Living With Intent

The Caring Economy Care Taking

Home-Making

Society
Two-Faced Tech

The Everything Net Fluid States

It's All Real Care Culture


Technology

Multi-Species Thinking

Planet Provocation Provoking Protopias


Environment
Designing Protopias

NatureVerse
Contemporary Commons
Politics
New Narratives People-Power Shifts

Cultural Power

Industry
No to ‘Normal’ Creative Reset
Direct to Essentials Democra-sized

Subtracting Adds Value


Creativity

Collective Intelligence
The Case for Creativity Code-Breaking

14 Energised!
The WGSN forecast timeline 2024
The timeline for WGSN's suite of 2024 trend reports, moving from business strategy to
consumer and product strategy

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