e

+ e +
+ + +
+ e
e e
+
e +
e
 e
+ e +
+ + ++ e
+e e
e +
e
Energy

Plasma

Gas
♦ Ionized gas
Liquid
♦ (+) charges ≈ (- ) charges

♦ Neutral active species

Solid

States of matter
 The solar corona
Neon sign Lighting bolt

Fluorescent tube

Manmade Plasma
 BIO-MIMIC
IN
TEXTILE
(DESIGN AND STRUCTURE)
 BIOMIMICRY: NATURE-INSPIRED
SUSTAINABLE DESIGN
Biomimicry is seeking solutions to human problems by emulating nature’s patterns,
strategies, and models. Not only does biomimicry provide us with sources of new ideas
for sustainability, but also there is great potential to achieve restorative solutions that
are advantageous to conditions for life to flourish.
Biomimicry has inspired a wide range of products:

The beaver’s fur is so dense that it traps

Scientists at Duke University discovered
warm pockets of air in between the layers,
that the bumps at the front edge of a
keeping these aquatic mammals not only
whale fin greatly increase its efficiency,
warm, but dry. Engineers at the MIT
reducing drag by 32% and increasing lift by
thought surfers might appreciate that same
8%. Companies are applying the idea to
ability, and they created a rubbery, fur-like
wind turbine blades, cooling fans &
pelts they say could make "bioinspired
airplane wings.
materials," such as wetsuits.
To minimize waste, discarded This design of the scarf
pieces of wood were layered was inspired by the unfurling
onto fabric like reptilian scales. mechanism of the hornbeam
leaf.

Speedo’s Fastskin FSII This dress’ hue is purely a trick of the

swimsuit mimics the texture light. The frock mimics the microscopic
of sharkskin to improve the structure of the Morpho butterfly’s
speed of its wearer. wings, which appear a shimmery cobalt
despite its lack of pigment.
The first bullet trains had problems because they Velcro was inspired by the tiny hooks
would create a sonic boom when they exited a found on plant burrs that would latch
tunnel. Engineers found inspiration from the onto the fur of the engineer’s dog.
kingfisher bird. With a specialized beak, it
seamlessly dives into the water without
splashing. By remodeling the train after the
kingfisher, Japan’s iconic bullet train solved their
excessive noise problem, as well as decreasing
energy usage by over 10 percent.
 Aesthetics and symmetry in nature

Examples of nature-created symmetrical objects. (a) Sunflowers boast radial

symmetry and an interesting type of numerical symmetry known as the Fibonacci
sequence. (b) Perfect hexagonal geometry. (c) Bilateral symmetry – which means an
 Structural colouration

(a–d) Images of Morpho rhetenor (common blue) butterfly wings at different

magnifications, showing that they are composed of thousands of scales with
complex hierarchical structures
Bioinspiration in textile design and functional

(c, d) Nature-inspired designs

Weaving processes in nature: (a) coconut leaf sheath, (b) orb-weaving
spider’s web.
c) weave structure of a weave bird’s nest and (d)
plain weave structure
 Non-woven formation technology in nature

Non-woven formation technology in nature: (a) mulberry silk cocoon, (b) micrographs
of silk cocoon revealing fibres bonded with each other, (c) tubes housing construction of
chaetopterid marine worm in underwater environment and (d) micrographs of the
internal tube revealing nanofibre arrangement
 Bioinspiration in textile design and functional

(a) Morphotex structurally coloured fibre, developed by Teijin Japan. By mimicking the way
that colour is produced in the morpho butterfly’s wing, the fibre appears coloured but does
not use any dyes. (b) Speedo’s Fastskin FSII swimsuit mimics the texture of sharkskin to
improve its wearer’s speed while reducing drag.
 Nature is a deadly battlefield of hide-and-seek between prey and predator.
 Both try to conceal their identity or visibility from each other so that they
can survive.
 Some animals have developed special skills to hide in the environment
 They live by having special colours, texture and patterning on their bodies
that help them to conceal their presence.
 This phenomenon of blending with the environment is called camouflage.
 So, camouflage plays a vital role in the struggle of surviving of living
beings.
There are many ways to camouflage. They vary from species to species.
The most common techniques are:

(i) crypsis, where the animal blends with the background;

(ii) disruptive coloration;
(iii) self-decoration with materials such as twigs, sand, or pieces of shell from
their living environment;
(iv) Changing skin pattern and colour, and
(v) Mimesis. The most common camouflage technique, however, is by
Changing the skin colour.
Inspiration – Fish
Product - Car
Inspiration – Woodpecker
Product - Woodcutter
JUTE HANDICRAFT BIRD- SPARROW

JUTE LIGHT LAMP BEE HIVE

“Development that meets
the needs of the present
without compromising
the ability of future
generations to meet their
own needs”

"There is a sufficiency in the

world for man's need but not for
28
man's greed."
29
31
 Textiles present particular problems in landfill as synthetic (man-made fibres)
products will not decompose, while woollen garments do decompose but
produce methane, which contributes to global warming.
 It is estimated that more than 1 million tonnes of textiles are thrown away every
year, with most of this coming from household sources.
 At least 50% of the textiles we throw away are recyclable; however, the
proportion of textile wastes reused or recycled is less and only around 25%
recycled annually in UK. 32
Sustainable fashion system can create value
for 3 P
 Up-cycled
&
low cost Textile Apparels
to meet the needs of poor
aspirants :
A Sustainable approach

34
 What is Up-cycling?

• Up-cycling is the process of converting products which have lost

service life, into materials of better quality by value addition or
refurbishing.

• If the demand will not slow down it has to be met, and since new
production will only support the evil cycle of over consumption
and all its problems….UPCYCLING is NECESSARY

• Up-cycling of textile means making something new of equal or

greater use or value.

35
 Need for Up-cycling
• Today’s generation buy more clothes and other textiles materials.

• Demand for reasonably priced fashion is high in response to the

changing trend.

• Prices are lower and thus quality is low

• These contribute to the increasing textile waste, burdening on the

earth.

• When remembering the 3-R (Reuse, Recycle, Reduce), we often

forget to reuse. Clothing can be reused, i.e. someone less fortunate
can wear our unwanted clothes.
36
 Textiles waste
• The total clothing and textiles waste in
the UK 2.35 million tonnes
• This is about 40 kg per person per year
• Over 900,000 million items of clothing
are thrown away.
• Only 25% of the waste is reclaimed
• 50% of textiles thrown away could be
recycled.
• The rest – about 30 kg per person per
year – goes to landfill
• In landfill, textiles produce methane gas
and synthetic textiles take a long time to
decay.
 A recycled blouse

The blouse goes in a Textiles bank, is sorted by a Textiles Recycling

organisation and packed, sent abroad where it can be resold.
 The 6 R’s

The 6 R’s are actions we

can take so that the
textiles we buy and use
are more sustainable.
• Recycle
• Reuse
• Reduce
• Refuse
• Rethink
• Repair
 Recycle, reuse, reduce
Recycle
Post consumer textiles from people are
collected by charity shops and Clothes
banks
Post industrial waste is collected from
textile and yarn manufacturers.

Reuse
Clothes can be sold again, redesigned or
if they are too damaged, used for cloths.

Clothing for recycling

Reduce
Cut down on the number of clothes and
textiles that we buy.
This saves money and reduces the
amount of textiles going to landfill.
 Refuse, rethink, repair

Refuse
Refuse to buy products which are not Chocolate Rain reuses old fabrics
sustainably designed and manufactured
Rethink
Think about what you buy. Is it made
using Fair trade practices?
Does the product use recycled
components?
How much energy is needed in its
production and maintenance?
Repair
Fix things if they are torn or broken.
Create a design around an old T shirt.
Appliqué over a tear in trousers.
 Use of old textiles

Use of old textiles

rejected items
shoes 7%
9%
fibre reclaimed
second hand clothing
7%
43%

filling materials
22%
wiping cloths
12%
 Upcycling

The purpose of upcycling is to create

something that is of equal or
greater value than the materials
that make it. This means making
a product from waste materials
such as used textiles.
Examples include
• Embroidering old jackets with
new designs
• Using old cans to make necklaces
• Weaving juice cartons to make
bags
 Steps involved in Up-cycling
• Collection of the old garments

• Segregation of the old garments

• Cleaning of old garments

• Refurbishing of old garments by soaping, bleaching, dyeing,

printing, finishing, stitching.

• Visual testing and analysis of garments

• Cost Analysis

• Up-cycling can be done using either pre-consumer or post-

consumer waste or a combination of the two.

45
 Overall summary of ten samples in terms of their process, rating and profitability

Gender
Profitability as new
Sample category to Processes carried Profitability as up-
Product Rating (1 - 10) product
No. which dress out to Up-cycle cycled product (%)
(%)
belongs

1 White Jacket Boy Dyeing 7.41 68.93 142.89

2 Baby Frock Girl Dyeing 7.02 63.60 146.76

3 Baby Top Girl Dyeing 7.55 93.30 133.29

4 Printed Shirt Boy Dyeing 6.84 90.80 191.47

5 Violet Top Girl Print 6.83 250.39 409.64

6 White Frock Girl Print 6.72 501.00 766.09

7 Torn jeans Boy Stitch 6.83 106.35 199.09

8 Torn jeans Boy Stitch 6.73 181.94 344.76

9 Violet T- Shirt Boy Enzyme wash 6.56 156.44 250.01

Tie pleats and

10 Carpet Mix 6.44 257.88 444.24
46
Knotting
 Sample 1
Original Up-cycled

The jacket was randomly contaminated by fungi and rust attack giving blackish
spots which was even unable to remove during soaping hence subjected to
Reactive dyeing in order to hide the black spots by using the Reactive Orange
with 2% shade
47
 Sample 2
Original Up-cycled

The original yellow colour stained baby frock was subjected to soaping followed
by Dyeing using Coracion G. Yellow HER with 1.5% shade to enhance the
aesthetic value

48
 Sample 3
Original Up-cycled

The light red colour stain was observed on the white baby cloth on the middle
face portion of fabric hence it subjected to reactive dyeing to achieve the
uniform shade.
 Sample 4
Original Up-cycled

Dyeing on printed goods dyeing of small boy printed shirt both was
subjected to reactive dyeing using Reactive Red with 5RB 0.5% shade to
improve its appearance value.
 Sample 5
Original Up-cycled

Original top was having the duller appearance hence subjected to Gold
printing to catch the buyers eyes by print-dry-cure process.
 Sample 6
Original Up-cycled

The original white top was subjected to printing with red pigment using
1% Imperon Red in printofix 200 by print-dry-cure process which gave a
different look as compare to traditional one.
 Sample 7 & 8
Original Up-cycled

When the jeans get torn in such a way that they can’t further used then it can be cut
and stitch in proper way to make a strong carry bag with both side pockets, with
longer length size, mobile cover and other accessories etc.
 Sample 9
Original Up-cycled

Huge amount of pills was appearing on the T-shirt surface to overcome

it was subjected to enzyme wash using KEM 240 with 1.5% owf.
 Sample 10
Original Up-cycled

Waste fabric cloths of short length were combined together to form a

long rope and then 3 ropes were used to tie pleats.
The pleats were then rolled over to form the carpet as shown in the
above figure. So this is a upcycled carpet made from waste cloths.
SOME MORE EXAMPLES OF
UPCYCLED TEXTILE
PRODUCTS

56
SCARF DYED WITH NATURAL DYES
Original Up-cycled

The faded thrown away dupatta was stripped using caustic and
hydrose. Further the stripped duppatta was tie and dyed using
natural dyes – turmeric & sapanwood.
This dupatta was cut in proper dimensions to get a TIE and
DYED SCARF.
57
JEANS DYED WITH INDIGO DYE
Original Up-cycled

The faded jeans was over dyed using indigo vat dye.
58
 BAG FROM JEANS
Original Up-cycled

59
HANDKERCHIEF FROM WASTE CLOTH
Original Up-cycled

The cotton cloth was Screen Printed with Reactive Dyes to

remould it to a Handkerchief
60
 TABLE CLOTH
Original Up-cycled

The cotton fabric was Tie and Dyed using Direct dyes and
then Printed using Reactive dyes.
61
 T-SHIRT PRINTED
Original Up-cycled

62
 WITH NATURAL DYEING
(ROASTED PEANUT SKIN)
APPLICATIONS OF JUTE
Ek –Jute Pruducts :
 NATURAL FIBRES FROM PLANT SOURCE

Cotton

JUTE BANANA BAMBOO COIR

10/18/2020 79
 NATURAL FIBRES FROM ANIMAL SOURCE

Wool Silk

10/18/2020 80
 MAN MADE FIBRES

POLYESTER NYLON ACRYLIC

10/18/2020 81
 Fibres
Natural

Cellulosic
Protein fibres
fibres

Mineral -
Seed fibres – asbestos Secretion
cotton, milk fibres – silk
weed, kapok Hair fibres – (mulberry,
Bast fibres – flax, wool, alpaca, tussah,
ramie, jute, sunn, cashmere, dupioni),
kenaf, urena guanaco, Ilama, spider silk
Leaf fibres – abaca, Mohair, Vicuna,
pineapple, agave, mink, muskrat,
palm, new Zealand angora, rabbit
flax Fruit Fibres -
coir
 Fibres
Manmade

Regenerated Synthetic fibres – Polyester, Nylon

Fibre (polyamide), acrylic (polyacrylonitrile), Mineral
modacrylic, polyethylene, fibres –
Cellulosic fibres – polypropylene, Kevlar, Nomex, spandex, glass,
rayon teflon metallic
(cupraamonium,
viscose, high
tenacity rayon
Acetate –
secondary Protein – casein,
acetate, peanut, soyabean
triacetate

Miscellaneous –
alginate, rubber
Essential properties and performance
of textiles
• Aesthetic properties
– Relate to the way senses such as touch and sight
contribute to the perception of the textile
– Properties associated with aesthetic perception:
Lustre, Drape, Texture, Hand
• Lustre
– Associated with the reflection of light from the
surface
– Shiny or bright, lustrous, matte or dull
 Aesthetic property – Lustre
• Shiny fibre reflect a great amount of light, most commonly used
for party wear
• Lustrous fibre reflect a fair amount of light, most commonly
used for formal wear
• Matte fibre reflect a little light, most commonly used for less
formal looks, casual wear
• Cotton, wool usually matte
• Lustre of cotton can be increased by mercerization
• Silk fabrics usually lustrous
• For manufactured fibres, lustre can be controlled from full-bright
high lustre fibres to semi-bright medium lustre fibres to dull low
lustre fibres.
• In addition yarn and fabric structure and finishing treatment can
change the level of lustre
 Aesthetic property – Drape
• Fabric characteristic
• Way the fabric falls over a three dimensional form like
a body or table
• Fine fibres produce a softer drape than coarse fibres
• Yarn and fabric structure are usually more important in
determining drape
• Chiffon – soft and free flowing, Chintz – falls in graceful
folds, Satin – stiff and heavy
• Influences appearance and comfort characteristics
 Aesthetic property – Texture
• Combination both visual and tactile senses
• Describes the nature of the textile’s surface
• Described in terms of smooth, rough etc..
• Natural fibres tend to give rough texture than
manmade fibres because of the inherent
variation in the fibre surface
• Yarn structure, fabric structure, finishes greatly
influence texture
• Influences lustre, comfort and appearance
 Aesthetic property – Hand
• Often described using adjectives like warm,
cool, bulky, thin, slick, soft, silky, harsh, crisp,
dry
• Way a textile feels to the skin
 Durability properties
• Evaluation of the life expectancy of a particular product
• Evaluated in terms of Abrasion resistance, Tenacity,
Elongation etc.
• Abrasion Resistance
• Ability of the product to withstand rubbing during use
• Evaluated by rubbing the textile material against a surface
and then evaluating change in appearance and change in
strength
• Forms of abrasion: flat abrasion, edge abrasion, flex
abrasion
• Fibre strength, fabric structure important for determining
abrasion resistance
 Durability property – Tenacity
• Ability of a textile material to withstand pulling
force
• For fabrics an additional evaluation parameter –
tearing strength
• Tearing strength – ability of the fabric to
withstand tear forces when the fabric has been
cut or a hole has been generated in the fabric
• Also contributes to pilling resistance, sagging
tendency in addition to durability
 Durability - Elongation
• Refers to the extent to which the fibre, yarn,
fabric can be stretched without breaking
• Invariably measured in terms of elongation at
break
• Elastic properties strongly related to
elongation
 Comfort Properties
• Primarily a matter of personal preference,
individual perception of comfort under different
climatic conditions and degrees of physical
activity
• Depend on – absorbency, heat retention, density
and thermal retention
• Absorbency – ability of the material to take up
moisture from the body or environment
• Expressed in terms of moisture regain and
moisture content
 Comfort property - Absorbency
• Moisture regain: Weight of moisture expressed in
percentage over oven dry weight
• Moisture content: weight of moisture expressed in
percentage over moisture laden weight
• Derive a relation between moisture content and
moisture regain
• Hydrophilic fibres: Cotton, Wool, Silk
• Hydrophobic fibres: Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic
• Absorbency also associated with static charge build-up
and dissipation, soiling tendency, shrinkage
Comfort property – Heat retention
• Ability of the textile material to hold heat
• Opposite – heat conductivity
• Choice of the material depends on the external
environment
• Low level of thermal retention for hot weather and
high level of thermal retention for cold weather
• Wool and acrylic give the highest thermal retention
• Attributed to large air pockets giving high degree of
thermal insulation
• Cellulosic fibre give the lowest thermal retention thus a
preferred choice in summers
 Appearance-Retention properties
• Described in terms of resiliency, dimensional
stability, shrinkage resistance, elasticity or
elastic recovery
• Resiliency
– Ability 0f the material to its original shape after
bending, twisting, crushing
– Fibre characteristics, yarn and fabric structure all
effect the resiliency
– Impacts the wrinkle resistance: highly resilient
fibre will give wrinkle resistant fabrics
Appearance – Retention Properties
• Dimensional stability
• Ability of the textile material to retain its shape through
use and care
• Includes properties of shrinkage resistance and elastic
recovery
• Shrinkage resistance
• fabric’s reaction to moisture and heat
• Elasticity or elastic recovery: ability of the material to
return to its original dimension or shape after
elongation
• Depends on the amount of elongation and length of time
for which the fabric has been stretched (CREEP)
 Other properties
• Resistance to chemicals
• Determines the appropriateness of care procedures and end
uses
• Acid and alkali resistance of cotton, wool, silk, rayon, lyocell,
acetate, polyester, nylon, acrylic & modacrylic, olefins
• Resistance to light
• Causes irreversible damage to the chemical structure
• Appear as yellowing or colour change, slight weakening of the
fabric, or eventually to complete disintegration of the fabric
• Environmental Impact
• Care properties
• Cost
 Fibre Structure
• Fibre – units of matter characterized by flexibility,
fineness and a high ratio of length to thickness/diameter
• For textile uses – sufficiently high temperature stability,
certain minimum strength and moderate extensibility
• Composed of polymers
• Essential requirements from polymers
– Long chain molecules
– More or less parallel arrangement of molecules
– Lateral forces to hold the molecules together and give
cohesion to the structure
– Some measure of freedom of molecular movement in order
to give the necessary extensibility

18-10-2020 Dr. Pintu Pandit, Asst. Professor, NIFT Patna 101

 COTTON- KING OF FIBRES
• Cotton fibres are seed hairs of plant Gossypium

Vertical Cross Section of Raw Cotton Optical Micrographs of Raw Cotton Fibres

• Advantages of Cotton
– CUSTOMER: Good moisture absorption, wicking properties which makes it
most comfortable fibre
– PROCESSOR: High wet strength which is advantageous during wet
processing
102
 COTTON- COMPOSITION
• Raw cotton contains as much Component Proportion, (%)
as 96% of cellulose Cellulose 88.0-96.0
Pectin 0.7-1.2
Wax 0.4-1.0
Protein 1.1-1.9
• Scoured, bleached and dried Ash 0.7-1.6
cotton fabric approximately Other organic 0.5-1.0
compounds
contains 98% of cellulose

Constituents Mature Cotton Immature Cotton

• Low cellulose content usually Waxes 0.45 % 1.14 %
indicates high proportion of
Proteins 1.01 % 2.02 %
thin walled immature fibres
Ash 0.71 % 1.32 %

Pectins 0.58 % 1.28 %

103
 Chemical Structure of Cotton (Cellulose)

Two β-glucose units are linked together by fairly strong oxygen

bonds

Also there is side ways linkage, known as hydrogen bonding,

between the fibre molecules

Wherever these side ways forces are operative, a well organized

crystalline region is formed

Wherever these forces are not operative, because of large

distance between the adjacent chains, a high degree of disorder
(amorphous regions) in the arrangement of the molecular chain
prevails.

Note: Primary hydroxy groups in cellobiose acts as the active sites for various dyes used for
colouration of cotton 107
 COTTON
• Cellulose molecules in natural cotton fibre are represented as
chains of various length
• In natural cotton fibres these chains are not present in any
orderly fashion
– Densely packed and parallel to longitudinal axis is known as crystalline
region
– Randomly packed region is known as amorphous region

109
 Fibre to fabric to garments

Yarn

Fibre

Knitted Fabric Woven Fabric

Nonwoven

10/18/2020 110
Solubility test for Fibre Identification
 Microscopic examination

10/18/2020
Wool Silk 113
 Cotton Flax

10/18/2020 114
 Nylon Poly Acrylonitrile

10/18/2020 115
 Woven Fabric

Simple Structure Tapestry Shirt

Jeans Bed sheets

Sarees

10/18/2020 116
 Knitted Fabric

Weft Knitted Cloth Appearance

Structure Application

Warp Knitted Cloth Appearance Application

Structure
10/18/2020 117
 Woven Vs. Knitted
• Knit -more
stretchable and
softer than
woven fabrics
• Knits are more
porous, bulky
and absorbs
more moisture
Minimum 2 threads Only 1 thread is
due to their
required sufficient structure

10/18/2020 118
 What is Plain weave?

10/18/2020 119
 Poplin weave

10/18/2020 120
 Basket weave (2X2)

Oxford fabric
•Inexpensive
•Absorbent
•Comfortable
•Flexible

10/18/2020 121
 Matt weave

10/18/2020 122
 Twill weave

10/18/2020 123
 Denim (2/1 twill) weave

10/18/2020 124
 Satin weave
Satin is made from
•Cool different material. It
•Glossy used to be made from
silk but nowadays it is
•Drapeable more common to find
•Compact it made from nylon or
polyester (so the
shining effect would
be stronger). Satin=
silk, nylon, polyester
(or any mixture
between those)

10/18/2020 125
Silk satin fabric
 Sateen weave

Sateen is made from 100% cotton or

rayon.

10/18/2020 126
 GEORGETTE

GEORGETTE is a sheer,
lightweight Crepe fabric
originally made from silk
with highly twisted yarns
thus creating its
characteristic crinkly
surface. Georgette Sarees
are lightweight & are
available in an array of
prints & dyeing techniques.

10/18/2020 127
 CHIFFON

CHIFFON is a very
sheer & lightweight
silk crepe. The twist in
the crepe yarns
puckers the fabric
slightly in both
directions after
weaving, giving it
some stretch and a
slightly rough feel.

10/18/2020 128
APPARELS/ GARMENTS
 Men’s Innerwear
•Mostly cotton Knitted fabric
•Stretch ability of the rib
• Pilling
•Sizes S (70cm)
M(80cm)
L (90cm)
XL(100cm) Cotton/Nylon knitted Socks
XXL (110cm)

10/18/2020 130
Cotton Knitted Vest Cotton woven Brief Cotton Knitted brief Cotton Knitted Vest
 Men’s wear
Trousers/Pants- Cotton (Comfortable but needs
ironing)
•Expensive to maintain

10/18/2020 131
 Men’s wear
• Pants- Polyester (Strength and wrinkle
resistance)
• Comfort ?

10/18/2020 132
 Men’s wear
• Shirts-Polyester
• Economical
• Strong
• Easy to maintain

10/18/2020 133
 Men’s wears
• Shirts-Cotton

Plain white shirt Fabric dyed shirt Printed Shirt Yarn dyed Shirt

10/18/2020 134
Denim Shirt
 Apparels made from Blended fabrics

Polyester cotton blend Polyester worsted blend Polyester Viscose blend

10/18/2020 135
Polyester Viscose blend Polyester Viscose blend
 Men’s Suiting

Suits and Blazers are generally made of

Polyester/Viscose and Polyester/Worsted blend .
67:33 and 70:30 blend ratios generally used.

10/18/2020 136
 Men’s Denim wear

•Flame Retardant
•Water repellent
•Antibacterial
•Levis, Pepe,
Spykar

•White and blue contrast

•Puckering at the seams
•Lycra blended for comfort
•Denim fabric

Denim Formal Wear

10/18/2020 137
 Woollen wear
• Men sweaters- woollen

10/18/2020 138
 Women’s Denim wear

10/18/2020 139
Laser washed fabric Formal Denim wear for Women
 Women’s Denim wear

10/18/2020 140
 Different Washing on Denims

Alkali wash Stone wash

Acid wash

Ice/Snow wash Monkey wash

10/18/2020 (PP Spraying) Enzyme wash
141
 Women’s Innerwear
• Women inner wear made up of Cotton, Lycra
and synthetic materials

•Fastness to washing and perspiration

•Comfort/Size
•Quality
•Antibacterial
•Compressibility
•Improper fit relates to health issues

10/18/2020 142
 Women’s wear
• Women Trouser/pants- Cotton & blends of Polyester

10/18/2020 143
 Women’s wear
• Women skirts- Cotton, Viscose and Blends of
Polyester cotton and Viscose are used

10/18/2020 144
 Women’s wear
• Women sweaters- woollen (Acrylic)

Inner10/18/2020
thermal wear (wool mark) 145
 Garments made from Lycra

•Stretch ability
•Recovery
•Content of Lycra- 5 to 7%
10/18/2020 146
Silk Sarees (Gold Zari,
Natural dyed,
Antibacterial Finish,
Stain resistant
Dry cleaning and Fastness)
10/18/2020
Women’s wear
Raw silk
North east- eri silk (Ahinsa silk)
East- Tussar and Muga silk
South- Mulberry silk
147
 Difference between China Silk and
Natural Silk
• China Silk is nowhere related to Silk. It
is a polyester.
• Due to very thinness and luster of
filaments; they resemble silk.
• How to identify:
Natural Silk – Silk has a typical scroopy feel; whereas
China silk is comparatively smoother in
hand feel.
– Take a small piece and burn. If burns
properly with smell of burning hair; it is
silk. If does not burn and form beads; it is
polyester.
– At 35% Hydrochloric acid solution, silk
dissolves; whereas polyester will be
China Silk unaffected.

10/18/2020 148
 Art Silk V/S Natural Silk
•Artificial silk or Silk is a natural fiber,
Art silk is a which is most
synthetic man- commonly woven into
made fiber, which textiles. Because of its
resembles silk but shimmering, smooth &
costs less to soft texture, this
produce. It is a expensive fabric is
commonly used considered one of the
fiber & sarees most preferred fabrics
made in Art Silk for occasion & festive
have gained wear.
popularity
because of its
affordable price &
great appearance.

10/18/2020 149
 Women coats/jackets

Generally made of Leather and Rexine

10/18/2020 material 150
 Fabric Defects to be checked while
purchasing a garment or a fabric
• Defective collar •Faulty zippers
• Loose/Missing •Misprints
buttons •Unevenness in colour
• Missing button •Stitch marks
holes •Stains
•Pilling ( hairiness)
• Seam defects
•Cut marks
• Missing threads •Uneven sizes ( size
• Crease marks defects)
(unwanted)
10/18/2020 151
 Fabric Defects

Missing buttons Faulty zipper

Defective collar

10/18/2020
Printing defects 152
Broken Needle
 Fabric Defects

Stitch marks Seam defects Stains

Pilling
Missing Thread
10/18/2020 153
 SPORTS GARMENTS

10/18/2020 154
 Comfort-priorities of a sportsman
The key requirement to be met is prevent loss of performance of an athlete

Ergonomic comfort Thermo-physiological comfort

– Fit to body – thermal regulation
– Freedom of movement - Sweat/moisture management
• Liquid
• Vapour

Sensorial comfort
- feel- smoothness, softness
- clinginess

Psychological comfort
– like colour, odour, fashion etc

10/18/2020 155
10/18/2020 156
 It should be Elastic

Good Abrasion resistance

High Strength

High tensile & tear

Strength
10/18/2020 157
 Swimwear
Swimwear's are used for
water sport and for
activities such as..
Swimming
Water Polo
Diving
Surfing
Raw Materials
Nylon
Spandex/Lycra
•Fastness to Chlorine Bleach
•Less water absorbent
10/18/2020 158
 Track Suits/Gym Wear

Garments made of Cotton/Micro denier Polyester and

•Fastness to perspiration Lycra
•Abrasion resistance
•Stretch ability/Comfort
10/18/2020 159
 SPORTS FOOTWEAR

Fibres used
Polyester
Polyester-Viscose
Polystyrene
Cotton
Desired Characteristics of sports shoes are:-
Nylon  Breathability
 Dimensional Stability
 Color fastness
 Light Weight
 Durability
10/18/2020 160
HOME FURNISHING
 BEDSHEETS & PILLOW COVERS

10/18/2020 162
 REQUIREMENTS - ESSENTIAL
Strength Pilling resistant

•Rubbing fastness
•Wash fastness
•Mosquito repellent
•Solvatochromic effect
•Aroma finished
10/18/2020 •Stain resistance 163
 REQUIREMENTS - DESIRABLE

Comfort

Lustre

10/18/2020 164
 CURTAINS AND WALL HANGINGS

•Light Fastness of color

•Soil release property
•Resistance to microbial attack
•Mosquito repellent and Aroma
finished
10/18/2020 165
 REQUIREMENTS - ESSENTIAL

10/18/2020 166
 REQUIREMENTS - DESIRABLE

Drape

10/18/2020 Crease recovery and Wrinkle resistance

167
 Table cloths

10/18/2020 168
 REQUIREMENTS – ESSENTIAL

10/18/2020 169
 Printing Defects (Common for printed
goods)

Miss-fitted print Incomplete prints

10/18/2020 170
 Towels

•Whiteness
•Wicking
•Absorbency
•Softness
•Color fastness
•Strongly held pile
(Loop/cut)
10/18/2020 171
 BULLETPOOF VESTS (KEVLAR)

10/18/2020 173
Anti Slash/Knife cut resistant Clothing

10/18/2020 174
 FLAME RESISTANT (NOMEX)

10/18/2020 175
 HIGH VISIBILITY FABRICS

10/18/2020 176
 Hygiene Products

Sanitary Napkin Baby Diaper

10/18/2020 177
 Adult Diapers

•Wicking property
•Dry feeling
•Liquid holding
•Super absorbency
•Antimicrobial Earth is but one country and Mankind its
•Deodorizing
10/18/2020
Citizens
178
 CARE LABELING
AND
ECO LABELING

10/18/2020 179
 WASHING

10/18/2020 180
 BLEACHING

10/18/2020 181
 DRYING

10/18/2020 182
 IRONING

Earth is but one country and Mankind its

10/18/2020 183
Citizens
 DRY CLEANING

10/18/2020 184
 ISO 18000- Occupational
health and safety information
ISO 9000-2008-Quality
ISO 14000-Environmental
health and Safety
SA 8000- Social Accountability

10/18/2020 185
 Types of
sustainable
textiles
 Organic Cotton

• No pesticides are used in the production of

organic cotton

• Organic cotton replenishes and maintains

soil fertility rather than depleting it.

• Crop rotation is required with organic

farming, which helps lock in C02 and build
stronger soil.

• Organic farming techniques use less water

because crops are predominantly rain fed
and the increased organic matter in the soil
means it holds water better.

• Organic cotton is grown using natural,

untreated, GMO-free seeds
 Econyl
• Econyl is a form of nylon that is made entirely
from waste products.

• It is made from a range of post-consumer

waste including abandoned fishing nets,
carpets and rigid textiles and aims to be a
green alternative to the original product which
is made from a derivative of oil.

• To make Econyl; waste products, such as

reclaimed fishing nets, are first taken to pre-
treatment facilities where they are sorted and
shredded into pieces small enough to be put
through the Econyl process.

• The shredded material is then moved to a

regeneration plant where it is put into huge
chemical reactors that, through a process of
de- and re-polymerisation break down the
components of the material and re-generate
it. The final product is then processed into yarn.

• Econyl has great eco-friendly credentials. Firstly

the use of abandoned fishing nets is helping to
clean up the seas; entanglement in
abandoned nets causes the death of many
thousands of whales, dolphins and other sea
 Tencel
• Tencel is the registered brand name of a revolutionary sustainable fibre of botanical origin,
produced by the Lenzing Group.

• The fibre, also known by the generic name lyocell, is a variety of rayon.

• It is made entirely from regenerated cellulose, and as such, it is exceptionally environmentally

friendly.

• The source material used in the manufacturing process is dissolved wood pulp, which makes it
one of the most sustainable options available to the ethically minded clothing manufacturer.

• The first stage in the manufacturing process is the sourcing of suitable wood pulp.

• All the wood pulp used in its manufacture is harvested from eucalyptus trees, which have been
specifically farmed for the purpose, on land which would otherwise not be used as it is
unsuitable for agricultural development.

• No existing forests are depleted, no pesticides are used, and absolutely no genetic
manipulation is involved in the process of farming the raw materials.
• This offers a significant advantage over many other synthetic fibres, which generally require
extensive
chemical processing.

• A life cycle assessment conducted in 2008 by the University of Leipzig reported that the
production
of lyocell is far more eco-friendly than the harvesting of cotton.

• The study found that the manufacturing process consumes ten to twenty times less water than
 Spider Silk
• Despite the name, spiders are not used in the production of this material.

• The main input in the fibre-making process is sugar from plants that are grown, harvested and
replanted.

• The sugars from these plants are fermented and this produces a protein that is then spun into a
fibre; spider silk.
 Hemp

• hemp is one of the most sustainable fabric

options out there.

• Similar to linen in a few ways, it also comes

from the stem of the plant, keeps you
warm in winter and cool in summer, and
has a similar texture in its pure form.

• It is also a highly UV-resistant fabric.

• Naturally pest-resistant hemp requires no

pesticides, herbicides or fungicides, little
water, and a relatively small amount of
land to cultivate.
 Cork

• Cork is a water-resistant,
renewable

• Completely recyclable material.

• Made from cork oak trees that

keep on regenerating after being
harvested each decade,
purchasing cork actually helps to
prevent the desertification of cork
oak forests.

• Durable

• Lightweight

• Waterproof material

Coconut fiber and cork insulation

LINEN
 Linen
• Linen is a cellulosic fibers derived from the stem of the flax plant or a fabric made from these
fibers.
• Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous that cotton.
• Linen is a fabric used widely in the fashion industry. This fabric is known for being extremely sturdy,
durable as well as highly absorbent, which is why is it used not just to create clothes but also to
make towels, tablecloths, bags, aprons, napkins and cushion covers.
• Linen like most other fabrics, can be embroidered on or printed on to create different patterns or
designs as per the creative vision of the designer working with it.

• Origin and History

• Linen is one of the oldest fabrics and the earliest evidence of it being manufactured dates back
to Egypt, approximately 4,000 years ago.
• Clothes made from this fabric were worn by the wealthier members of society as it is slightly
harder to manufacture linen when compared to the manufacturing of other fibers and fabrics.
• The Egyptians indulged in a trade with Phoenicians who had their own merchant fleets, through
which linen was traded with the people in the Mediterranean areas as well.
 MANUFACTURE

HARVESTI RETTING SCUTCHING

NG FLAX
FIBRE

WEAVING SPINNING
 MANUFACTURING
PROCESS
• Linen is basically a bast-fiber, which means that this is a
fibre that is obtained from the inner section of the bark of
the plant (also known as the phloem) which is why is has
superior tensile strength when compared to other fabrics. In
order to get the longest fibers (as these determine the
overall quality of the fabric), flax plants are harvested by
hand or the stalk of the plant is cut close to the roots.

• The fibers are then pulled away from the stalk and this is
done through a process known as retting wherein bacteria
is used to decompose the natural pectin that acts as an
adhesive and binds the fibers together.

• After this, the stalks are submitted to another procedure

which is known as scutching. In this process, all the wooden
portions present in the stalks are removed completely by
crushing the stalks between metal rollers. The fibers are
then separated from the mass (and other items like tow,
shive and linseed are set aside to be used for other things).
After all of this is done, a process called heckling takes
place in which the fibers are basically separated from
each other with the help of a comb.

• These fibers are then processed and treated after which

they get spun into yarn (or they can also be woven or knit
into textiles of linen). Once these textiles are created they
can be dyed any color, or bleached, printed on or
 Properties of linen fibre
• Properties/Characteristics of Linen Fiber:
Linen is comfortable,
• good strength,
• twice as strong as cotton,
• hand-washable or dry-cleanable,
• crisp hand tailors,
• well absorbent dyes and prints,
• well light weight to heavy weight,
• no static or pilling problems, fair abrasion resistant etc.
 Physical Properties of
Linen
•
Tensile Strength: Linen is a strong fibre. The
strength is greater than cotton fibre.

• Elongation at break: Linen does not stress

easily

• colour: The colour of linen fibre is yellowish

to grey.

• Length: 18 to 30 inch in length.

• Lustre: It is brighter than cotton fibre

• Effect of Heat: Linen has an excellent

resistance to degradation by heat. It is less
affected than cotton fibre by the heat.

• Effect of Sun Light: Linen fibre is not

affected by the sun light as others fibre. It
has enough ability to protect sun light.
 Chemical Properties of
Linen
• Linen is a natural cellulosic fibre and it has some
chemical properties. Chemical properties of the
linen fibre are given below:
Effect of Acids: Linen fibre is damaged by highly
densified acids but low dense acids does not
affect if it is wash instantly after application of
acids.

• Effects of Alkalis: Linen has an excellent resistance

to alkalis. It does not affected by the strong
alkalis.

• Effects of Bleaching Agents: Cool chlorine and

hypo-chlorine bleaching agent does not affect
the linen fibre properties.

• Effect of Organic Solvent: Linen fibre has high

resistance to normal cleaning solvents.

• Effects of Insects: Linen fibre does not attacked by

moth-grubs or beetles.

• Dyes: It can be dye by direct and vat dyes.

PRODUC
TS
 Interesting facts and
comparisons
Interesting facts and comparisons
• In Ancient Egypt, Linen was
used as a currency by the
wealthier families.

• Mummies were also wrapped in

linen due to the fact that the
cloth is sturdy and helped
preserve the bodies.

• Dyed fibers of flax were found in

a cave in Georgia that go way
back (before the modern world
happened), showing that flax
was used to create clothes
even then.

• As this fibre is strong, it was used

as a shield and gambeson in
the Middle Ages. It was also
sometimes used as a bowstring.

• Irish linen is, at times, used as the

coating for the cues used in
billiards or pool as it absorbs the
sweat from hands.
 LINEN HIT THE
RAMP!!!!!

A linen revival at London Anavila's Collection, Rohit Bal, Indian menswear at

Fashion Week Lakme Fashion Week, the second edition of`Van
Linens Heusen
 Need of Colouration
and Finishes???

PURPLE CORN

Carcinogenic chemicals No health hazards, Safe,

Effluents discharged in the  Eco-friendly.
river results into pollution Non-toxic & non allergic.

INDIGO LEAVES

BLUE BERRIES

TEA
Eco -Printing
 Thank You!!!

Mobile No.: +91- 9833408125

Email: pintu.pandit@nift.ac.in